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>> Home > Tags > wheelhouse

boat house
coach house
The lighting circuits. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast ights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification is required 😎

The window glazing & frames. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films was peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁

The Kent Clearview screen by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎

More work on the Solent Lifeboat by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
HI heres some pics the work I was doing on the superstructure i replace the roof on the superstructure and all so i replace the windows on the wheelhouse .Theres a lot of work still to be done on the superstructure.

Our Tru by GrahamP74 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 22"/1000g Our Tru - Comments: I made this boat when I was 16. My Dad brought two pieces of wood home from the sawmill that he worked at that he had shaped roughly. I added the keel, bildges and shaped the hull. Wheelhouse is made of card and this is the current one ( I think there has been 4 different designs!). Gantry is made of brass. No power, she sails on the wind! Pulled back to shore by a line! Based on one or two of the inshore beach boats at Dungeness in Kent at the time. Pictures here are from two years ago when I dusted her off, put the flags on and reminisced!

The mast & rigging. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
I had previously adapted the mast with lighting and fixing studs and so it’s ready to be fitted to the wheelhouse roof, but I decided to add some rigging detail in the process. Along with some other items, I had previously bought some threaded brass ’eyes’ and wooden rigging blocks by mail order from RB models in Poland. Very good prices and remarkably quick delivery from overseas. I drilled the horizontal bar of the mast to take a couple of small brass eyes, and bent the lower part of the exposed thread back at an angle, onto these I fitted some wooden rigging blocks with brass sheaves which I had previously stained mahogany and lacquered. Another slightly larger eye was fitted to the centre of the mast and another to the wheelhouse roof for the forward stay rope, I used some thin white elasticated thread that I found in my local Hobbycraft store for all the rigging. The stay rope end were finished with small brass hooks formed from some thin brass wire and secured with some small diameter heat shrink tubing, I think this makes for a much neater look than just tied knots. The top rigging ropes were made in the same way. The completed mast was then bolted down through the wheelhouse roof on the threaded studs and the two lighting wires passed through separate holes in the roof. This should allow me to detach the mast and fold it down for transport if necessary. The lower end of the ropes from the rigging blocks were formed into a loop with a spot of superglue to fix them and then some small white heat shrink tube used to cover the joints. The loops fit neatly over the cleats on the cabin roof so that they can easily be released. I’m hoping that being elasticated all the rigging will stay taut and remain presentable 😁 I must remember to order some ensigns flags from 'Mike Alsop Scale Flags' for a finishing feature as recommended by pmdevlin in an earlier blog post 👍

Wheelhouse for Emily P II by GrahamP74 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: I ordered a Cygnus wheelhouse from Models by Design. Windows and door cut out. I have constructed the interior out of 2.5mm PVA board which I will paint to replicate wood. I will be adding a sink and a small cooker to the galley on the aft wall. I have cut the cooker area out but still have to cut the sink.

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

Shamrock Fast Police Boat by sonar Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Now starting the wheelhouse / cabin. Got as far as i can for now until I make another visit to the plastic shop. If it is free it is worth waiting for. The wheelhouse look out,s are some old inhaler tubes Yep Have a few of them kicking about.. Still more later when I start again. In the meanwhile I will start some of the other fixtures and fittings...

Exuberent DH 142 by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 32" Exuberent DH 142 Single Propellor (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: She is a model of the original boat which was lost with skipper March 23rd 1983 off Portland. I had been building the static model since she was launched in March 1981 then ceased build when the tragedy took place and took my friend, the skipper. I recently moved to Burnham on Sea and joined Sedgemoor Model Boat Club and I was inspired to proceed with the build as an RC Model. Wish me luck !!!👍😊 The original boat was a Cygnus GM32. The hull and wheelhouse mouldings were supplied by Cygnus Marine Newlyn, Cornwall, as was the hull for the model. The boat was self built in Dartmouth by the owner/skipper as a Crab Potter. On completion she fished the waters off Dartmouth Devon during the summer months and then off Weymouth during the winter where she was subsequently lost en route for Dartmouth loaded with pots to transfer fishing activities back to home waters. She was a marvellous little sea boat and performed well in rough conditions. It is still a mystery until this day why she floundered. I hope her memory and the Skippers will live on through my model.

Clinker Potting and Crab Boat by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks for your mail Robert and I look forward to the hull arriving. Your Clinker Crabber is a typical south east coast beach boat like the ones in the picture from Hastings invariably had a foremast and mizzen mast. The foremast was for carry hauling gear and lights and the mizzen had a sail to assist the boat to lie into wind and tide when hauling pots. Notice the simple wheelhouses. They were lovely old boats with loads of character as your is. My profile picture is the boat I am building.

Clinker Potting and Crab Boat by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Me again Sonar. My Crabber is a traditional South Devon Boat from the 70s/80s. They traditionally had aft wheelhouses but then the trend changed when crabbers used the stern of the boat to shoot pots for safety reasons. You boat, in my opinion suits an aft wheelhouse and it wants to be set higher. I actually think it is a bit to modern as well for the style of your double ender (cruiser stern boat). She is lovely and warrants a wheelhouse of the time. Only my views, after all she is your build.😉

Clinker Potting and Crab Boat by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Nice detail.I think the wheelhouse should be at the bow, just my preference👍

Clinker Potting and Crab Boat by sonar Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
I noticed the same the wheelhouse was a little to low. But I worked on the wheelhouse when it was on floor and at the time it looked right. Eye level and it disappears into the hull. The figures will be 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inches tall and the scale then looks about right

Clinker Potting and Crab Boat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Sonar, I think the wheelhouse would look nice toward her Stern! Lift the Wheel House about an 1" or so, to give the wheelhouse good visibility facing her bow. And have her fishing hardware facing forward towards the bow!