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>> Home > Tags > wheelhouse

wheelhouse
boat house
clubhouse
coach house
wheelhouse
White becomes blue! by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Grey deck completed today. Also added additional paint effect to the v doors, stern roller and wheelhouse handrails. Painted the capping white too...

White becomes blue! by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
After yesterday's water check I have taken the gantry and wheelhouse off and started the paint job! Once dried the deck will get a coat of grey..

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Been waiting for a few parts to assemble the motor so while waiting I made a start on the other parts that can be done separately.. but it's so tempting just to put it all together to see what she will be like!!

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Certainly looks the part. I can see why you would want to test fit

wheelhouse by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks, I hope so! Lots still to do though!!

wheelhouse by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Very nice work, it will look like a real ship.👍👍👍

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Just a couple of photos to see the gantry and wheel house in position. wanted to understand the deck space I would have!

wheelhouse by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
The mould was made by Andy at Models by Design. I managed to aquire the plans of a GM 33 with the internal layout for the wheel house. I have copied it in the main! The cooker does swing! I downloaded images of radars and radio fronts and stuck them onto painted PVA board. I used poster paint mixed with 50% PVA glue to paint the interior. The window surrounds were made from thin PVA board and the attached to the inside and out to replecate the sealed metal unit. The door slides on runners.

The lighting circuits. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎

The window glazing & frames. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films were peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁

The Kent Clearview screen by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎

More work on the Solent Lifeboat by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
HI heres some pics the work I was doing on the superstructure i replace the roof on the superstructure and all so i replace the windows on the wheelhouse .Theres a lot of work still to be done on the superstructure.

Boxer fishing boat by Jim Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Just started building from the plan. Started the bottom skins today,had to do them in two parts. Finished the bottom and side skins, fitted the propshaft and rudder tubes. Just give the inside of the hull a coat of epoxy. Just fitted the brushless motor,took chance on the motor size and power. I started on the decking using 1mm ply, when that's done i intend to plank over it. Finished the planking today and started the hatch cover which will fit the cabin onto, the deck will be painted over. Started work on the wheelhouse,the plan shows the front and sides being double skined with the glazing in the centre,using 1.6mm ply for the inside and 1mm plastic(palight)for the outside. Will keep you posted on the outcome. Changed my mind on putting the plastic part with the glazing on the outside and put it on the inside instead.

Our Tru by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 7/10] 22"/1000g Our Tru - Comments: I made this boat when I was 16. My Dad brought two pieces of wood home from the sawmill that he worked at that he had shaped roughly. I added the keel, bildges and shaped the hull. Wheelhouse is made of card and this is the current one ( I think there has been 4 different designs!). Gantry is made of brass. No power, she sails on the wind! Pulled back to shore by a line! Based on one or two of the inshore beach boats at Dungeness in Kent at the time. Pictures here are from two years ago when I dusted her off, put the flags on and reminisced!

The mast & rigging. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I had previously adapted the mast with lighting and fixing studs and so it’s ready to be fitted to the wheelhouse roof, but I decided to add some rigging detail in the process. Along with some other items, I had previously bought some threaded brass ’eyes’ and wooden rigging blocks by mail order from RB models in Poland. Very good prices and remarkably quick delivery from overseas. http://www.rbmodel.com I drilled the horizontal bar of the mast to take a couple of small brass eyes, and bent the lower part of the exposed thread back at an angle, onto these I fitted some wooden rigging blocks with brass sheaves which I had previously stained mahogany and lacquered. Another slightly larger eye was fitted to the centre of the mast and another to the wheelhouse roof for the forward stay rope, I used some thin white elasticated thread that I found in my local Hobbycraft store for all the rigging. The stay rope end were finished with small brass hooks formed from some thin brass wire and secured with some small diameter heat shrink tubing, I think this makes for a much neater look than just tied knots. The top rigging ropes were made in the same way. The completed mast was then bolted down through the wheelhouse roof on the threaded studs and the two lighting wires passed through separate holes in the roof. This should allow me to detach the mast and fold it down for transport if necessary. The lower end of the ropes from the rigging blocks were formed into a loop with a spot of superglue to fix them and then some small white heat shrink tube used to cover the joints. The loops fit neatly over the cleats on the cabin roof so that they can easily be released. I’m hoping that being elasticated all the rigging will stay taut and remain presentable 😁 I must remember to order some ensigns flags from 'Mike Alsop Scale Flags' for a finishing feature as recommended by pmdevlin in an earlier blog post 👍