Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
November 2017: 12 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 22 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (10)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > wheelhouse

wheelhouse
boat house
clubhouse
coach house
wheelhouse
Tsekoa 2 by deepdiver Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi One and All Just a quick note, Brightwork has sent me some photo's of the Tsekoa, and they have answered some of the questions that I have had with regards to the wheelhouse and the deck fittings. THANK you Brightwork. All the best Fred

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!

Fairplay V (Hegi) rebuild / refit by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, shortnozzle and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.

Removing The Deck by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 26" Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) Single Propellor (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and soundmodule with speaker. It's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Removing the Deck............ Should have said before, note when removing these screws they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes and putting them in a lidded container. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks, it requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pic 8. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 11.(not got the hang of this yet!) What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pics 9/10. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, agree with Dave, no need to rush it, think each step through first! Transducers should be mounted on a vertical surface so the sound doesn't vanish into the clouds😉 You want to project across the water. Midships on both sides is ideal. But not right next to a bulkhead, in the middle of an open space is best. Sort out the basics first i.e. propulsion and battery. Heaviest items as low as possible checking for balance and trim as you go. Leave the wheelhouse and special FX to last when you can see what space and weight margin is left. Cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
No not yet thought it through Doug. Huge speaker with the unit... and weighty. Glad about the transponders! I imaging they should be in the hull/decking and above the waterline? Trying to read about about boat balance and how they sit in the water. Assuming keeping battery as low as possible is best. Will have to be fore and aft if it is to be removed through the rear hatch. Have not broken into the Bridge/wheelhouse yet to see whats there................. Is once a week OK for the build blog? All the best. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

Albatross by Baggie Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Yes - sorry. Raveningham. The dog is at the feet of the figure nearest the wheelhouse... I will take another picture over the next few days of it and post it. 👍

White becomes blue! by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Grey deck completed today. Also added additional paint effect to the v doors, stern roller and wheelhouse handrails. Painted the capping white too...

White becomes blue! by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
After yesterday's water check I have taken the gantry and wheelhouse off and started the paint job! Once dried the deck will get a coat of grey..

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
Been waiting for a few parts to assemble the motor so while waiting I made a start on the other parts that can be done separately.. but it's so tempting just to put it all together to see what she will be like!!

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Certainly looks the part. I can see why you would want to test fit