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This is what she looked like in August I have ordered a new suit of cotton sails but I am also making a pair myself which are nearly finished and then it's time for a sail.I think the original suit in the picture are really too delicate to use The braine gear has been set aside and she now has radio control with seperate winches for the job and main The deck has been removed and she is glass lined as some of the planks were a little fragile She is obviously now a bit heavier than she was but a bit more user friendly I will post some pictures of her on the water
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.THIS ONE'S TOO BIG FOR THE TUB, SO COME NEXT NAVIGATION SEASON, I'LL BE INVESTING IN A 12X4 FT. INFLATABLE POOL. LET'S GO RC BOATING! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)
I am just waiting for the sails from Mastman then i can complete the build I have changed the drum winch for a standard servo i extended the arm it gives more pull on the sails seems to work better time will tell like all my buddies i am thinking about my winter build i am torn between a hovercraft or a smaller barge i will probably end up doing both 😉
Exactly Dave 👍 Several of us have extolled the virtues of separate Rx batteries. I feel I have more control over what happens when on start-up and testing. For testing I usually use a variable PSU anyway. I also prefer to use drive batteries for just that and not waste endurance supplying servos etc. Finally, for multi-channel setups and/or large servos, winches etc the BEC may simply not have sufficient current capacity. Cheers Doug (aka 'The red-lead snipper'😉)
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Hi Neil, Well you wanted info!! 😉 I have a digital subscription to Model Boats and remembered seeing the article. I don't build yachts but can still admire the craftsmanship and techniques used. Some come in handy for other projects, e.g. winches. No idea about MYA classes, I'm not a yachter! Dave_M most likely knows. Happy over-making, cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, I heartily second all of what Dave has written ESPECIALLY NOT CHARGING IN THE HULL! 😡 I also considered fitting the battery across the hull but came to the conclusions that it was too high and impossible to remove for charging, so I settled for between the shafts as Jarvo did. I have also dumped the smoke idea, my older version Southampton does not have this. Instead I will concentrate more on sound, lighting and possibly a working winch. As Dave says slow down! Get the basics working and the ship sailing first. THEN you will know how much freeboard, and space(!) you have left for the special effects. Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 5/10] 50" Robbe Diana a vintage M-class yacht - Comments: The largest yacht I own, and also the oldest! This meanwhile vintage M-class yacht is undergoing some minor updates to get her back in shape. What's new is all below deck: new rudder servo and winch with 2.4 GHz Spektrum reciever. She'll sail within two weeks; I'll add some proper photo's under sail by that time! (The last pic is showing a sistership)
the motor has been installed along with a drum winch for the sails i have fitted a 2.4 kg 1 mtr yacht bulb for ballast (i will post more pictures later) most of the deck fittings are in place i have started on the masts the biggest job will be of the sails
IT'S JUST AN OBSERVATION: Not a complaint. But I couldn't help notice when I was in the engine room of my little Proboat Westward 18 that the winch there, is considerably bigger than the winch in my Joysway Dragonflite 95, costing almost three times as much. Is 'Bigger' better here. Or are there other factors. Should I go back to the assembly line and complete the 95. Oh, to be sailing on the high seas.
Hi Les As you are using this with your Joysway yacht you will not have an ESC with a BEC supply so just plug you battery into any of the sockets not used by the rudder servo and the winch servo. Have you managed to contact the supplier re the missing box for the Radio Dave
Hi Les I see from an earlier post you were considering a Dragon Flight 95 yacht. This looks like the larger version of the RG65 yacht I have. Regarding the battery I suggest you remove after every sail and open up the hull covering to allow any moisture to evaporate. Leaving the battery connected with or without a switch when there is moisture present will over time result in catalytic action on the black wire from the battery to the rx connection. The whole wire will turn black and need replacing Far better to store your battery in an inside environment where there is no condensation. Lixx I store in a metal box in case of any problem. As Doug says the capacity of the battery and the equipment it is supplying determine how long the battery lasts. When you set up the yacht do make sure your winch and rudder servo are not driving up to the end stops as servos can and do draw large currents if stalled. My RG 65 sails happily for 2-3 hours on a fully charges LiFe 6v battery, but I had to add a 5v UBEC to protect the minature rudder servo. Hope this helps Dave
Hi Les, Sorry🤔 but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question. It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output! Inputs required are- Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack, Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc, auxiliary motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience. Re: depletion: Battery should not be left connected when not in use! You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it. If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this. Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'. A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RX😉 Cheers Doug 😎
If I keep a fresh battery connected to the receiver, but dont run the yacht, will the battery deplete regardless. And if it's a small yacht say twenty inches, would it run (with the winch operating frequently) say an hour in total. Perhaps even a tad longer.