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>> Home > Tags > winch

winch
sail winch
winch
Emma C Berry Schooner by alan20 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
Scratch built from old kit plans but planked and fibreglassed rather than balsa sheeted as in the original. Modified to fit a removable keel. Winch and continuous loop sail control fitted under deck.

Sterling Emma C Berry by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Model is 49” long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon spray can paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has auxiliary 6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing ability’s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Indeed you have John👍 if I get time today I'll dig out the winch I used for the trials on my destroyer, only operational boat at the time! Trouble with a destroyer - the stern is so low you can't reach the deck of most boats😲 I had also built a reversible ESC for the winch, a hefty commercial job with about a 385 motor I think. Ran on 6V. Now I have the Southampton tug I was thinking of a much higher derrick, or A frame, on the stern!? Have some 0.5mm nylon line for the tow line, what do you think? As an electronic engineer I sometimes need help with the mechanicals - which others seem to find sooooo easy 😲 Have right now a mechanical problem to solve on my Gina 2 fish cutter - more on that in the Blog. Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? If that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the charger. Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the charger and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the charger knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the charger'! If so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on chargers the smaller EH. It's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😡 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it 🤔 At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding 😉 Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Marblehead Sailboat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
All done and ready to sail. I took it to an outdoor swimming pool at a neighbours and did a Sytems check; Stability; All was fine and I suspect this is going Go like a greyhound on the lake! Put in a new sail winch robbe #8336; rudder servo is HiTec HS-322HD

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Aaaah! Jeti Duplex, luvly stuf, if you want to fly a 1/10 A380 with full Fly By Wire Auto Pilot, Black Box engine and flight data Sensing Recording and Telemetry feedback! But for a rudder and a sail winch!?😲 'A grand'? Only ones I've seen lately are 1 1/2 to 2 grand 🤔 Still, one has to have dreams 👍😉 Keep doin' the Pools! Ciao, Doug 😎

Brace yourself! by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Trying to rig the main tops'l and mizzen tops'l braces, I found the winch servos seemed to rotate more than the 3.5 times I thought they did. Oddly, one rotated 4.5 times and the other 4.25 times. I plugged in other winch servos and got the same results, but my DX6 transmitter didn't have a servo-travel setting that I could find in the manual. So I made new winch drums - again - based on what the servos were doing. The fore tops'l brace was fine, but the main seemed to pull one side more than the other side. I mentioned this oddity on RCGroups and someone suggested the DX6 did have a servo travel setting, and I was sure I had looked for it years ago. My manual isn't where is usually is, so I found a PDF on line. Lo and behold, there's a Servo-Travel setting spelled out on page 42! So I set about adjusting my TX settings to the new drums and there you go, working as advertised! In the meantime I installed eyes in the mizzen for brace blocks to mount to, and made a brass wire ring for the main tops'l brace to tie to as noted on the original ship a few posts back in this thread. I apparently slopped some epoxy on the inside of one of the mizzen tops'l brace thru-deck fairleads and blocked it up. I need to pull it like a bad tooth, and replace it, so the mizzen braces are hooked up yet. Here's some exciting video of the separate bracing for the fore and main tops'ls. http://todd.mainecav.org/model/constellation/videos/con20180...

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I've been pondering a neodymium magnet on a derrick on the stern of my Southampton tug and steel plates set into the foredecks of my boat and ships! Still pondering, reeling in with a winch is easy, running out the cable to drop the magnet down onto the boat is causing me mechanical headaches though. 😡 Maybe just raising and lowering a suitable boom would be easier!? Any ideas folks, especially amongst you winch using sailors? First time my destroyer conked out I swam out 'in me knickers' to rescue it cos the wind was pushing it towards the lake fountains. It's NOT a flying boat! Got a round of applause and some interesting suggestions from some of the er 'ladies' present 😲😉 Second time we had flat calm on a balmy summer evening and she started very slowly drifting home. So as it was early evening we went to the lakeside restaurant terrace where I could enjoy a steak and a glass or two while keeping an eye on her progress. Hard life ain't it 😉 Whatever, I'm sure there's a more elegant solution than more plumbing than there is in my bathroom! I even once used my sharp pointed destroyer to push a failed plastic RTR so called speed boat home. Took a lot of manoeuvring with a long thin destroyer but we made it. Once I managed to get it lined up and close enough to shore a good shove with all ahead flank then full astern let it run up the shore. Was good helmsmanship practise. A simple shaped rubber block I could hang over the bow would have made it much easier! Cheers all, don't get stuck! Doug 😎 PS One other 'Schnapps idea' as they might call it here in Bavaria, I've been playing with for a while is a model of the 'Big Lifter'. It's a conveyor ship like a big powered dry dock. To take on the load she floods huge tanks and sinks herself😲 slides under the load, pumps the water out again and up she comes load an' all! Would be fun wouldn't it?😉 All the bridge and accommodation superstructure and engine rooms are in the stern. At the bow there are only two tall towers for guidance when taking on the load. The rest is just flat loading deck. Sounds simple don' it 😁 an' a lot more fun than half the plumbing dept. of B&Q. 👍 PPS: I also tried the grab claw idea of Martin's. A sort of 4 prong grappling hook. As he rightly said the first snag is to get the line aboard the stricken vessel in the first place. I tried it with one of the depth charge derricks on the stern of my destroyer. Reeling in - fine. Getting the line out ? Another kettle of fish. I considered a spring-loaded system to fire the line out IF I could make the winch free run to pay out! Got no further than considering (the spring launcher I still have) before I completely stripped out the destroyer for a total refit. Thinks, thinks, thinks ......

Crash Tender davit info... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, just thinking about the work I need to do on my Crash tender and the davit would seem to be a problem. Is there any info on it in any detail anywhere? Plans or good photos. I have size, but no details on the winch or the area below where it goes straight. As it's portable I guess it must be round is just manhandled into sockets, but I have no info on that side of things at all. All info. gratefully received. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks, Haverlock. When should I discharge the batteries? Currently as you could see from above emails, they have a pretty full charge. I need to bind the Rx and see that the sail winch works. After that I probably wouldn't need them for a while, so would that be a good time to discharge them? Does the imax thingy stop discharging when it should automatically? Should I then leave them while and recharge a la Doug's advice, which seems to make very good sense with a new pack.? Cheers for the advice on the iMax. I'll let you all know how the binding/servo testing goes. Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well, you could, Haverlock, if you understood a word of the instructions. But if they're reading 6.37Volts I reckon they're charged, so I shall try to use them to bind the Rx. and see if the Vanity sheet winch works. Ron, I reckon they're charged at 6.37Volts. I'll just check that the Rx. is good for that higher voltage and then tomorrow see if I can get my head this binding business. Martin

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug, interesting technique, turning them negative, but it does show that the cabin tops are marked as grey as well as the decks and coaming (cabin sides?). As you say, smooth versus non slip will look different in raking light. I had wondered that, but the lightness of shade goes right round the angles of the fore cabin. That's actually the effect that made me ask. Considering these particular boats were only ever two in number and never really in service for long, despite their popularity as models, so I don't reckon they had a repaint as they weren't around that long. It's just that the drawing you negativised says grey for all the surfaces, yet everybody makes the cabin tops white. I'm wondering whether to make the cabin sides a noticeably lighter shade of grey than the decks and cabin tops. Problem now is how do we represent non-slip on a model? Sifted Chinchilla sand into slow-drying wet paint, then spray with the correct colour? Glad to see you confirming what I thought about the half round edging to the tops, Doug. I can imagine that being a standard kind of process. Now, we need details of the derrick and its winch. Apparently it was portable. I bet that was a lump to lug about in a rolling seaway! Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, thanks for all that. I will be getting my battery capacity meter tomorrow or Saturday according to ebay, so will go through the above then. They are 2600MaH VP batteries, well thought of, it seems. So would that be a whisker over 6 hours of charging? (6.0666) The Rx. and the servos all say they can go up to 7.4V and as mentioned, as a sailing boat there's no ESC (thank Gawd).This is just drum winch and steering. I wouldn't know how to fast charge anyway, so that's not gonna be a problem. Who needs fast charging. There's always something to do while batteries slow charge. Navy Lark is lost on Radio 4 as is all supposedly funny stuff these days. Desert Island Discs is still on R4 on Sunday lunchtime with a repeat during the week, but these days the guests are either such obscure arts, media or science types you never heard of or so young they haven't even lived yet. Or sports people, in which case I turn off, unless they're motor racing maybe. I hate sport. Fortunately R4 Extra on digital gives us a lot of the old series the likes of which they no longer make for fear of upsetting some imaginary grouping of people who would actually laugh as much as the rest of us probably. On R4, the News Quiz and I'm Sorry I Haven't a Clue are still funny. Nothing else in the so-called comedy slot is remotely amusing. I would think, by the time my sail winching stuff is working right, I will have cycled the new batteries quite a few times, but I'll report back as soon as the gizmo arrives for capacity metering. Thanks again for your help, Doug. Cheers, Martin