Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!

Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

Donate Now
or enter custom amount

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
April 2017: 22 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 8 people
September 2016: 4 people
August 2016: 4 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (21)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > wind

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
The cunning plan for the sails. Heming & stitching is difficult to get anywhere near to scale, unless the scale is large. So I experimented with the flying jib, worked very well. Except I have the bolt rope on the wrong side. I had tried this on glass before but the glue puddled showing badly. Using the Paper pattern cut out the cloth ( I use ticking) With at least 1/2" all around. Mine was washed & ironed. This was because it has been folded in a drawer since the last boat. Cut 4 Teflon blocks & drilled 2 holes ( Teflon cut from an old chopping board). A panel pin through holes one up one down. Place paper pattern on a board, nail the blocks so the nail sticking up is on the point. The other nail is clear of pattern, this will allow the block to pivot. Wind a string that has been soaked in PVA (water resistant type) around the nails. The cloth is slightly dampened with a spray, not to much or it will be to heavy & also the glue could run. Push the nails up through the cloth letting it sag again not to much. When dry remove it from board, cut off the excess cloth as tight as possible to the string. I then mark the panels with pencil. I do this on both sides, after the first side I tape it to the window so I can see & get them the same. Then give sail a coat of very watery coat of PVA, some mixed with acrylic paint. Seen on my model Flying Foam I had over done it a bit.

Battery problems by RNinMunich Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Patto, forget the 'watt meter' and consequent P=IV -> I=p/V conversions! What you need to measure is the actual current drawn, especially the stall current, if you can manage that without getting any fingers chopped off 😡 On the lake anything can choke the prop so just testing 'free running' is not the whole answer. Sounds to me simply that your setup is drawing so much current that any battery or accu will go flat in a few minutes. Your example of a 5300mAH (i.e. 5.3AH) means that in perfect (!) condition, fully charged and almost zero internal resistance (int. cell resistance wastes power so buy the best quality you can possibly afford) it can theoretically supply 5.3 Amps for 1 hour. or 53 Amps for ~ 6 minutes (1/10 hour). and so no. LiPos with C values of 130 sound great BUT the discharge C value is related to the AH rating. So taking your example of 5300mAH = 5.3 Ah 130C = 130x5.3 = 689Amps! The Accu would supply that for ~ 27 seconds before departing to the great recycling centre in the sky! If you ever decide to try such an experiment PLEASE let me know in advance and I'll fly over the record the event for posterity 😉 Seriously though folks: I can't comment on the prop/motor setup, one of my weaknesses - I always check my stalled motor current draw with an ammeter before selecting the ESC - but as an electronics engineer I do have some idea about power supplies and circuit requirements etc. Can't imagine that your setup exceeded the 160A (short term remember!) rating of the ESC so that seems to be faulty, but you still need to find out what current your setup will draw under severe load i.e. stall. If just holding the boat cause blow ups then something else is fundamentally wrong 🤔 Bit long-winded perhaps, much of the above makes sense but not the whole story, time to cut to the chase I thought. MEASURE THE CURRENT! Good luck. Doug 😎 By the way the above comments about lead acid & hi current are OK. They are more useful for long term supply of low to medium currents. I still use them in some larger scale models (~ 1.5metre naval ships) as they provide useful ballast (i.e. payload) instead of JUST ballast! The 20HR of your lead acids refers to the Hourly charge Rate, i.e 1/20 of the capacity in AH, in your case 7/20 = 0.35A or 350mA.

Battery problems by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Alan, following this thread, your last post might give it away, you were holding the hull stationary, that means it was loading the motor far higher than if it was moving. You said that the coolant was running before you started so it probably was all the time, that could mean the ESC was over loaded and then blew. How long did you hold the hull?? at the sort of power a lipo can give, cooking the ESC would not be hard, even with the cooling water. Dave M could give the proper answer but i think you held on to long. Haverlock also mentioned using a watt meter, i am almost certain that you overloaded the ESC by some considerable margin, i have re-read the other threads, what size prop are you using? with a 40000 rev motor if its loaded too heavily it will just use more power to get itself going, so we are back to the ESC overloaded. Sorry if this has been long winded, it might not help, but less revs and more torque could be the answer

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Alan a fleet admiral & you don't know what dead eyes are. Or have I spelt it wrong? They are on top of the chain plates & bottom of shrouds pulled together by rope threaded through the holes, to tension the shrouds. Hatches the hold & deck house no problem, but needed one near the bow. A strip of rubber stuck between 2 strips of balsa form the seal. The rubber from a split windscreen wiper. The hatch planks project at the front so hatch slides under. The back screwed down by dolly winch. The present state of play.

Kent windscreen. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Dave. Thanks for the link, it's useful to see the mechanics of the Kent clearscreen, I have found some other old b/w photos online that look similar to the ones on the fireboats so I probably have enough to go on now. Thanks. Rob.

Kent windscreen. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
There are details on ebay of modern clear view screens try html for a good detailed drawing with measurements. Dave

Kent windscreen. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi All. I'm looking for some detailed drawings or pictures of the type of Kent windscreen used on the RAF Crash Tenders. Do any of you chaps have anything of the like or can offer some advice on the making of?. Thanks. Robbob.

Ketch Irene by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Good luck with her. I made a model of her twelve years ago, using the drawings in the book 'Good Night Irene' by Leslie Morrish, who originally rescued and restored her. She still sails well and likes plenty of wind.

"Sweet Sue" by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Kevin Yes that's what I do. I am always amazed at the power the oscillator generates and once rotating very little steam is required to maintain speed. Then again it's not for windy or rough conditions. I would try gradually reducing the pressure until the engine show signs of stopping and then increase by a couple of psi to ensure safe running. You do not need to run the boiler at its max rated pressure when the escape valve will be opening just at a level that replaces what the engine uses. Can we have another video with the steam whistle sounding? Dave

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Made kits for windlass & dolly winch.

Looking for a particular person by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Alas, he talks a lot about old motors, but doesn't use them as such. I want to use mine, at least to try them out before I give up and go all buggy motor. (I call all cylindrical Jap motors "Buggy motors"). It's easier than remembering all the fancy numbers. Buggy or drill motors. I have an electric screwdriver whose batteries are pretty much dead, so there's another motor to go with the minidrill motors I already have! The way I see it is I used to use these old British motors years ago and they always worked, so why not now? I have them and I don't want them sitting on a shelf and I don't want to buy new Jap stuff or ESCs. Failing that, the boats will go on the shelf as show queens and I'll go all wind powered. I have a Veron Veronica, a one-off Dorade GRP hull of considerable age and a vintage Marblehead once owned by Sir Thomas Lipton. Oh and a partly built hull of a Victorian "Plank-on-edge" gaff cutter on which I used to live. Sounds like I need to sort my stuff out! Thanks for all the help. If anyone needs any help with things like mahogany speedboats, deck fittings, etc. please pick my brains. Cheers, Martin

Using old motors by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Dave, thanks for your helpful reply. I shall bear all those things in mind. I have to finish the boats yet, but will let you know once all is installed. Would I be right in assuming that even a simple rheostat won't work on a Taycol with field windings? Cheers, Martin

Recovery vessel by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
This is similar to the one we have in the club but the two sections are side by side with opposite open ends so you can sail along side the stricken boat to capture. Can be difficult on windy days as there is a fair amount of drag, but usually works. This does pack up to a small area so easy to transport. Dave

Using old motors by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Westquay Look at re your Taycol motors. As regards getting 25-40mph that may not be possible with your vintage motors. In their day the Taycols were the best around but I suspect after nearly 50 years they will be showing some deterioration in the windings etc. My supermarine double special was very impressive and gave a good spark from the copper foil bushes that increased with speed. You actually oiled the brushes. Your speed 480in a suitable light planing hull maybe if your batteries were also not heavy. An ESC will reduce the voltage to the motor so if you just want speed perhaps a heavy duty microswitch or relay would be best as you will not presumably want to tinker around at slow speed. I suppose you may still be able to get a Bobs board for the ESC which will work better than a rheostat. Radio interference is a major problem and you will need to suppress the motors and keep all receiver wires/servo wires and the aerial well away from the motor. You have not stated what rc you intend to use but unless you live in a very remote area reed and similar early radio gear will not work well in the modern rc world. Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress Dave

Using old motors by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi all, I'm seeing posts on internet search dated 5 years or more ago, so here goes in modern times. I have a number of lovely old motors which I want to use in my speedboat models. By speedboat models I mean exactly that. Models of actual speedboats...woodies as they're widely known. They would need to go at something like a SCALE speed of 25 - 40mph, so no acid-loving ducks here, just fastish. PLEASE don't suggest I buy modern brushless stuff. I'm just not into all that. BUT, is there any newer thinking about speed control and reversing of the old Taycols, Frogs, Basset-Lowkes and SELs? I do posses one modern motor...a speed 480 taken from an airyplane. It's all I can get in my Sea Hornet, now it has been converted to a Chris Craft Racing Runabout. Cheers, Martin (already winding rheostats!)