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[Score: 5/10] 54"/6400g Rena Capable of 1mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (4.8v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through none (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Rena is a scale model of the John Alden ketch "Rena" She is mainly sail controlled but has a small auxiliary motor for those days with no wind.
That is a scary question to ask. I think if you dont know the answer off the top of your head is possibly to many. I had a database of my fleet, all indexed with setups, condition, if they needed any work, ones i wouldnt sell ones i might sell, what i might like in the future. Thats long out of the window now. Is there a too many number? I dont want to start adding my collection up, its well over 50, and 45 of those would be ready to sail at a moments notice. This could become like an AA meeting, Hi Im Bob and I have a problem......
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £600. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.
Well I have now painted the top. And stuck in all the windows. For the glass I used some old clear plastic fruit containers. But afterwards noticed I could have had windows with a slight green tint by using some old 7 up lemon aid bottles. Still maybe next time. In the meanwhile again I have been making and painting the little bits that will be stuck on at a later date.
Hi Wellard I think we need a bit more info to give helpful advice. Electric or Gas depends on the noise level nuisance. May not be a problem for off shore use. Probably greater endurance than with electric but not as good for the speed you envisage. As speed is not important (3-4Km/h) then a brushed motor may be preferable to brushless. Generally the prop should be about the same diameter as the motor case. Larger props will require some form of reduction unit to reduce the load on the motor. Sounds like there will be plenty of room in the hulls to carry a good power source and as you are operating at some distance SLA is possibly better than say LiPo where discharge voltage is important. I think you may have a problem with the range (20-30Kms) as this is somewhat greater than the normal range of domestic RC sets. As you are off shore there may be additional problems with wave height as the signal may be obscured when the model is in a deep trough between waves. At the end of the day you need a motor prop battery combination that will move the craft thro the water at the required speed and last for the full duration of each sail. It's quite a large model and I suspect will need say two 800 size brushed motors to allow for wind/waves and current. I suggest you come back with your thoughts as you may have specific requirements to fit in with other equipment you are instaling. dave
hi, i have been today met a few members of colwyn bay club where I sail, had a great time spending money😁 and looking round the museum. there are some real old barges there👍. the model boats were also very nice to see. saw a fantastic aircraft carrier. there wasn't much sailing on the water as it was windy. david
I have in the past used superglue to fix the plastic windows in. And some have gone a milky white colour. So yet another lesson now learnt . So what sort of adhesive should I use ? The superstructure is plastic and the glass material is a load of cartons that at one time contained Grapes. Thin clear and flexible. Any suggestions please
sure is for the taranis, dave. actually, my original plan for a surveillance platform is a DIY UAV and since i have no background with RC i started with simulators and using the Taranis as controller. but after observing the wind condition at sea for a couple of weeks i decided to change plan and do with a USV instead. the wind are unpredictable and i need a platform that can be employed almost all the time. except for very rough tides of course. I'll try to look for online stores within US and Australia also. if you have recommended sites in mind please message me. that will be a great help 😊
Don't know how deep it is in the middle. I think there have been a couple of drownings over the years. I take a reel of fishing line with me. My plan would be to enlist some help and take the other end of the line to the other side of the lake. Lay the line over the boat. Tie a duster to the end of the line and gently pull the line over the boat. I am thinking the wet duster would grab the boat well enough to pull it in. I haven't had to try it so I just hope it works if I need to use it. I also thought about getting a 5 meter fishing pole off Ebay but didn't get around to it. But as I said most of the time the prevailing wind is towards the more accessible bits
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .
all ready to go new paint & varnished added new leather seating windscreen made from a plastic salad bowl 45mm 3 bladed brass prop 850 brushed motor powered by a 11.1 5000 mah lipo O and new cowls from the model shop 👍