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Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎
I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.
The first time I ever made a smoke generator was in the 1960s at school - for flow visualisation in a wind tunnel I was building. There there was no shortage of power, so i used a 1/4" glass tube wrapped with asbestos and nichrome heating wire, and boiled paraffin in it - no wick. Loads of lovely white smoke once it was forced through a cooling fan - but it was oily and smelly, and not ideal for lab work.... Later when I built a Revell Bluebell corvette, I made a shallow perspex dish with the glass-fibre wick, and used the smoke fluid from a disco smoke-maker. That's essentially a glycol/water mix - much less smelly. Unless they add perfume.... I suspect that paraffin would be less smelly outdoors, though fire and an oily residue would be hazards. You should be able to get a bottle of glycol smoke/fog fluid for less than a fiver....
This is a first try at a simpler quieter smoke unit. I used the smoker box/element off the Heng Long tank/car smoker unit with a 40x40 5v fan (the fan being voltage controlled by a 5v UBEC and the lot being run by a 2s Lipo (with a y splitter for the fan UBEC and the element using JST leads. Doesn't smoke that well as I had broken then repaired the element previously, but the other one I have smokes a lot better, and has a better type of element (possibly a newer version) Some photos etc on the smoker discussion. Unit is almost silent (the noise you hear is the camera and outside noise, as the window was open)
Bournville MBC Open Day. Bournville Radio Sailing and Model Boat Club invite all RC Skipper both wind and Power to join in their annual Open day. On the day racing for both sail and Power.along with informal sailing and general chit chat with like minded modellers. Free to enter Light Refreshments Free Parking Disabled Access Contact Rob Fowler 07714517445
[Score: 8/10] 44"/5600g Doris Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Doris is built plank on frame and is a copy of the Thames Bawley by the same name, number LO284. The original which is still afloat in Gillingham Kent was built in 1909 in Harwich by J & H Cann for Leigh on Sea publican Mr Choppin who named the ship after his favourite daughter. Dimensions of the original 40ft length 14ft beam 5ft 6in draft, weight not known. The model is a dream and looks really good, she sails well and the motor is only to help her 'about' when she is feeling challenging and to bring her ashore if and when the wind dies. I have no r/c control of the sails which is something I am still considering as a consequence she goes everywhere on a broad reach her best sailing position anyway. I do hope you like her thanks for looking Chris G
Hi Doug, Very sorry, no photos, I was a teenager sailing dinghies in the Medway in the late forties when I saw Manxman and I don't think I even had a camera in those days. My father was on the staff of T.S. Arethusa ex "Peking" at Lower Upnor and we lived in a flat over the ship's swimming pool, right alongside the river. I had a wonderful view of Chatham Reach from my bedroom window. There were so many ships laid up in the Medway and adjoining creeks at that time., taking the wind from us as we raced our dinghies from the Medway Yacht Club. There were long trots of the wooden hulled inshore sweepers, numerous destroyera and all sorts of support craft, there was even an old coaling hulk in Sheerness Harbour, but I'm afraid the passage of time means I don't remember names. Manxman stuck in my mind though, being a little different. Those were the days when we had a navy!
Ron Great to hear about this. I had a Kingfisher in 1972, powered by a DC Sabre 1.49 marine diesel. The engine was mounted just aft of the windscreen and it needed a a lot of ballast . With such a small engine and the additional weight the performance was mediocre. Is this kit in production again? If it is I might build one . Maybe this time I will fit a brushless running on lipos . This will give the model the performance it deserves. Boaty😁
Well , I'm sorry to say our fears were correct because the first of the two plans (Sea Commander) arrived this morning and as others have found the high quality drawings are absolute SH*T 😡 I think all curved lines were hand sketched by someone with very shaky hands 😲 I shall try and attach some pics. The first shows his attempt at the front windows A scan of his efforts is at the top , the correct drawing is below it The second picture is his attempt at the rear deck . One edge is a hand drawn wiggly line that should be straight . The drawing is too high, and the two sides should taper in towards the back . His drawing has one tapering in towards the back but the other side tapers outwards The third picture is a scan of one of the frames which is folded in two so as to check that both sides of it are mirror images . They are not even close So I will wait for my second plan to arrive (Sea Queen) which I expect to be no better and then put in my claim for not as described Drawn to a high standard ? what a joke
Where is the rudder hinged? In some pictures I've looked at it appears to come up through a narrow section of rear deck. If so then hide a drum on the rudder post below that deck and wind control strings around it and routed to another drum on the servo. Steve
Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.🤓 I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. It still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.😉 I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.
Oh yes there is!😉 Just click on the Adobe Icon, when the large version appears click on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows will ask you if you want to Open or Save the file. (Doesn't seem to matter how many times I explain this it is still FAQ Number 1!) Cheers, Doug 😎
I would suggest you go on to eBay, and then type in Microcosm Steam engines in the search window,this will take you to a Chinese Company who make numerous steam engines, at very reasonable prices plus lubricators and mechanical water pumps for various engines. Let me know how you get on. I willpost youa photo of an engine with a pump fitted, one of Microcosm's engines, they do boilers as well.
I build both scale rc racing yachts and some scale gaff rigged cutters...all actually sail RC. I use several different materials, for the cutters, I have found the light spinnaker material from sail shops works great, much lighter than you would expect. I live on the US west coast near many sailing harbors, the sails shops just give me some of their scraps, free! Light weight reinforce, checked pattern, from the local fabrics stores work also. Like a very light windbreaker material. Hope this helps.