Hi Doug, Yes, Ohio was an incredible story. Shame that her two halves became target practice! Carley floats. I puts paddles in them, usually four. I assume they did actually have them, but I wonder how they are secured. Straps maybe. 🤓 The round structure on the mainmast would presumably have glazed windows all round. I have yet to see a pic clear enough. There must have been a ladder for access. I am tempted to completely rebuild the island, but getting the present edition off would be a heroic undertaking, so I think it will have to stay not entirely accurate. 🤐 We are heading to the UK next week, so might take a trip to the RN museum in Portsmouth. Norm
Gordon bought this hydro from Ebay and fiddled with it lots to get it going. So we went to Ilfracombe pond for a test. It went jolly well to begin with until a large input of water through the windows made it unstable and the result you can see !!! After we recovered it and dried it out it went lovely as you will see from a later video. Les Breame
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave
Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. It's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔
Hi Dave, I can do it that way on the Sea Scout but not so easy from inside with Glyn's ship and lots of small windows in a cramped superstructure. 🤔 In his case I would paint the ship then paint the frames separately, glue in the 'glass', then glue the whole assembly into the ship. Like I did with the portholes on HMS Hotspur. Unfortunately Glue 'n Glaze & Co didn't exist then so some ended up 'steamed up' 🤔 Doug 😎
Glue (epoxy, Cyano or MEK) the frames to the outside before you paint. This will leave a lip all round the inside of the window aperture. Paint, then apply the windows from the inside using canopy glue. Cheers Dave
I am trying to fit, well glue really, Perspex ports, with outer metal frames into my build. I'm having a real problem with it. Can some one give me the heads up on the tried and trusted method. Do I fit/glue the Perspex into the cabin and then fit and glue the outer frame on top, or glue the clear plastic into the frame and then fit into the hull. I've tried both, but always finish up with the thing falling out, or glue being visible, or both! There must be a trick of the trade that will make life easier, and make a better job than I seem to be capable of. It's the worst part of the build, for me, and it's putting me off assembling another model that has any windows! Advice greatly appreciated.
Sea King now restored. Veneered the deck adding some fancy balsa work on the bow deck. Modern veneers are thin and difficult to manage. Shouldn't have varnished the white areas as so called clear varnish is not clear when painted on white. Overall, I'm pleased with her and learned a lot of lessons. Loved Glue'n Glaze for the windows. What a Godsend. Retained the original como motors added a fan cooled Chinese 320 esc and linked her to a new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz transmitter and Acoms AR-201 Rx with futaba servo. Hull painted Hammerite smooth Gold, with white Plastikote. Managed to retain the original Billings sticker and name decals.If the bath is anything to go by she should plane quite easily. Might add some ropes and fenders but enjoying her clean looks at the moment.
Hi All Repaired one of the broken cabin pieces under the aft side window and added strengthen timber forward and aft(windows). The gap under the windows to the deck, I laid down two layers of masking tape and mixed up some Selley's Plasti-bond. Pushed the cabin onto this and waited for it to harden. Removed cabin, removed the masking tape, sand the areas and spray filler undercoated. A nice clean gap!!! Canabus
Hi All Started on fixing the bits I broke in removing the old paint. The forward window had a gap in the middle to the deck, so I added timber behind the bottom of the window and filled in the gap. Masking tape to the deck and combing, a lump of filler, sit the cabin down and wait for the filler to dry. Remove cabin, masking tape, trim and sand down. As the aft of the cabin sits over the deck a fair bit, I added a plywood piece back to the combing so to strengthen the aft cabin area and replaced the bottom section under one of the windows. Remodelling this boat and building the SG&K 1920 Gentleman's Runabout is keeping me busy!!! This retirement is great, but, I still liked my old job. Canabus
Hi AllenA I see there appears to be some varnish inside the hull so perhaps you could try some stripper on a small area to see what happens. A heat gun is probably not wise with all the windows and painted cabin tops and hull. Used sparingly the stripper should not affect the ply. Unless the white hull paint is damaged I would leave well alone unless you can source a supply for the decals. Dave
did another wee bit today ,decided to glaze the windows before assembling a bit tricky but a 7 year olds fingers come in handy, the windscreen went together quite well the roofs fitted reasonably well ,may put a 1mm white plastic roof over the mdf ones .had some nice oak strip so decided to plank the aft deck ,the forth picture shows the amended bow(not fitted) im not an expert but I prefer the original that I had fitted prior to knowing there was a mk2