Dave, one of the advantages of epoxy that should not be discounted is that it is almost completely odourless. THat is an especial advantage in places where the winter is long, cold and snowy, and painting and epoxy-ing has to be done indoors. Roy
[Score: 8/10] 36" Midwest Cranberry Isle Single Propellor (3 Blade) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Recently purchased this boat built by Don Sutton, Scale Captain, Metro Modellers Toronto, Canada 🇨🇦. Don built the boat about 15 years ago, but to make room for a larger new model he is selling older models. This style of Yacht has long been a favourite of mine which will be my winter scratch build project. Having this working model in my workshop will assist me with the project.
Hi Boatshed, the Queen was treated with TRICLOROETHANE. Sorry can't divulge where but it was done in a laboratory by a guy who owed me a massive favour from when I was working. Even I don't know exactly how its done but sure worked. Wish I could get all my old boats done, as you I have many including an original fireboat from 1957. Also a Sea Urchin, and two Swordsman, a large launch from the early 60's Caroline is 56 inches, plus a 46 inch tug, about 8 other boats that need work, not to mention 5 sailing boats. Most of the fleet are used for displays at vintage and steam rally's. My wife and I spend the winters doing restoration work on models that get donated to us. Good night. Colin.
I just purchased a Midwest Lobster Yacht which was built about 15years ago. The figures are for it. Looking for male and female passengers and family. I have the full sheet plan which says it is drawn on a 3/4"=1"scale. My forth coming winter project, is to scratch build a second one of these beautiful boats using the model as a guide and template along with the plans.
HI Robbob Depends on the motor power, kv and size batteries. My club mate runs a Spearfish on a 3639-1100kv 800watts with a 2 blade X50 and we GPS it at high 30s(KPH). A bit smaller boat, but, it's quick. As it is winter in Tasmania 4-5 hours in the shed in the middle of the day is cool and we have not been hit with bad weather so far!!! With the repaint of my Sea Hornet and painting of my new runabout, the tender is still going to be in the water next summer(finished or not). Also I have a Huntsman arriving tomorrow that requires a lot of TLC !!!!
[Score: 8/10] 32"/2200g Laurel ll Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Mabuchi 555 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper 10 / Mtroniks (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Stood on a shelf for a number of years before purchase, planking dried out & sprung at the bow, leaking along both sides. Repaired & equipped with new motor & electrics over the winter.
Yes, good to hear you are making progress. I won't be starting building a Swordsman until getting on for winter and that depends on one of my sons moving back out to give me some room! I've pretty much finished the plans though. In the meantime I've bought an Infinity Hydropro 650mm yacht for some summer sailing.
Once I was satisfied I had all the fairleads I needed, or might need (I put in some extras, just-in-case), It was time to permanently close up the deck. The luan plywood sub-deck had long ago been cut into 2" strips to allow it to take the deck camber and sheer. I had also painted on it's underside except where the deck framing was, so the paint wouldn't interfere with the epoxy. I got a few very nice days in October (2014) great for dealing with epoxy, and to take on this major step in the model's construction. There's a sinking feeling about this, like you've just locked your keys in the car. First I removed the mechanical decks below, cleaned out the hull, replaced a deck beam whose joint had never set right, and dabbed epoxy onto things I'd never be able to reach again. The mechanical decks were painted white. The turning blocks for the steering were epoxied in place; having been hot-glued in all these years. Now I painted epoxy on the entire underside of each strip to seal it as well as glue it to the deck beams. Working from out-board toward the center-line. I clamped the strips down, but also used copper tacks to hold it down that would be left in. In short order, the sub-deck was epoxied and nailed in place. Now the only access inside was through the hatches. All the cracks and seams on the deck were filled with polyester putty (Bondo), especially around the deck/hull joint. When this set, I sanded it, filled missed places, and sanded some more. Then a layer of 4oz cloth, left over from glassing her hull 5 years before, was laid on the sub-deck. At this point the deck was an integral part of the hull. I ordered 3/16" x 48" square bass strips to plank the spar deck. I was going to cut this from a maple board I hand, but could get what I wanted safely from the saw. I was concerned bass (lime) wouldn't be hard enough, but it's been great. As holidays and cold weather reduced the time I could spend in the shop, I made up the rest of her spars and their hardware; as well as framing up and installing the fore and aft access hatches. I also cut the deck strips to their length. Then winter came and stayed until April. Meanwhile I hemmed the rest of her sails.
Hi Doug I did acquire this as a part built model and followed the plan. My scale ship model club quickly advised me the plan was wrong! Should be easy enough to alter, the main problem is I have the lights installed and they use the outer frames to make the connections. Sails well on a calm day so I will probably defer until the winter. Caldercraft kits do make into nice models Dave
Thanks Dave (Pav403), no hurry as would like to refresh the model during the winter and can incorporate any improvements then. Thanks Dave (Dave M) will talk to my source of inspiration (Trillium) and see what we can do with a video.
thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the salt water as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan