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>> Home > Tags > wiring

wiring
wiring
wood glue by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
If dad was colour blind Doug how did he cope with the colours of the wiring in the sets ?👍 I know the Wrekin Doug Used to camp nearby in the grounds of Nash Court near a village which I think was Tenbury or TemburyWells and we did night hikes up the Wrekin and slept in quarrymen's cottages on bare bunks LOL I was in The BB until I was 18 finished up as Drum Major/CSM. The BB was affiliated to the NABC which is why we were able to camp there. I'm now 75 since 6th March Cheers John

Graupner ranzow refitting by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Will post the pictures of the crane ect for you tomorrow just finished wiring up the crane today Ron

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
BTW: a 3V supply will only work for one LED, or several in parallel which complicates the wiring. Each LED in series drops from around 1.8 to 3.3V depending on the type. Typical average is 2V and 20mA current, so for your 3 LED running lights you would need a - 150Ohm resistor!!! Yes 'minus' 150 Ohm.😲 If you find one let me know and DON'T TELL DONALD😉 What voltage is the main power source, i.e. drive battery? Doug Posts crossed 😉 Just wondered if Brooklyn might have had a stern light set into the stern gunwale. Have seen that on tugs in Hamburg.

Cabin roof mechanism by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
That's a very clever design and we'll executed. Two concerns, the finished roof might be a little fragile and easily knocked, trust me, it happens 😱, particularly with the mast in place and the 'pantagraph' motion knocked out of alignment. Also, if you are doing working lighting for the mast, front and side nav lights and searchlight, how will you articulate the wiring to them neatly? Perhaps a self locating, on closure, multi pin connector? I'm sure you have already considered these points so I'll be interested to see how you engineer them. Keep up the great work 👍. Robbob.

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! It has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet. Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking! Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made. BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉 If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz. Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊 Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet. The spark energy density spectrum peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference. BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲 The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got! Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔 Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections. Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place! Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper?? These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲 If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how. I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation. Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation. Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage. Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed. BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊 Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊 Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy. Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC. Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse. Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔 Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from. Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭 Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse. Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board. Have fun, cheers Doug 😎

Boat Testing Water by Donnieboy Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes,time does fly.Snow is gone from here at the moment.I was hoping to have a friends boat finished putting in a 2.4 Ghz radio into it and rewiring lights and bow thruster.Time justb disappeaers.

For Sale - Pilot ll from plans by Vic Smeed by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
For Sale. Plank on frame wooden hull scratch built from original plans by Vic Smeed. 86cm L by 28cm B. She is very well made, though I can't claim for construction as I bought her part built. I re-painted, added the drive train and electrics as well as detailing the the deck house and upper deck. Twin brushed fanned 540 electric motors with Mtronics Viper Marine 20amp ESCs. 2.4ghz Tx with four channel receiver. Navigation lights and searchlight. (Need final wiring) I think she looks good on the water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6ELvkWcM-4&t=20s Collection only please. £210 ONO.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Allen, so you were running off a 6V batt, results are about what I expected👍 Well done that man😉 You could go down to a 25mm prop. And don't forget to put a 10A fuse in the motor + supply wire to avoid frying the motor and or wiring if it stalls at sea!! 😉Have fun, Doug 😎 PS: snow's stopped, sun's out 😊 Still bl...y cold though😡

More Bulkheads by mturpin013 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
All the bulkhead parts are made ready for assembly. I decided at this point modify CF2 and B2. B2 to enable easy access for further detailing of the cabin at a later stage and CF2 I cut out what will be the door opening into the cockpit. Each of the bulkheads had 2 x 12 mm holes drilled just below deck level for future wiring runs; they also needed support to secure them at 90 degrees so I made a number of right angle squares to support them squarely and at equal height at each side, these were secured with a temporary brass pin. The spacing at the keel was pre-determined when building the keel components, however the tops need correct spacing by dry fitting the cabin sides and just checking that each side measures the same height, finally the back end of the keel needs supporting to keep everything square. Each of the cabin sides and bulkheads can now be dismantled and reassembled with epoxy resin. NOTE at this stage only the bulkheads are epoxied to the keel, the cabin sides and CF2 are only there to ensure the bulkheads are square and correctly spaced at this stage.

Brushless motors by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Spitfire Glad to hear that you will be supporting the site's running costs. Stephen (Fireboat) runs this free site entirely on donations so every little bit helps. Doug has answered your question re wiring the brushless motor to the ESC. I would just add that you should not swop any wires whilst the battery is connected. I would also advise that you fit a fuse between the main battery and the ESCs. Brushless motors can draw very heavy currents when stalled or overloaded. A fuse rated just above your running current and no more than 50% of your ESC rating. I am assuming here that your wiring is capable of carrying this current? If you haven't got one I suggest you purchase a wattmeter so you can measure the current drawn under load (hold the boat in water and run at full wack). This must not be greater than the Motor or ESC rating. A smaller prop will reduce the current. Please keep us posted

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

Fusing confusion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Charlie, don't mention it, glad to help. 45 years electrical & electronic engineering must be useful for something 😉 I'm also new to brushless and not sure yet how they behave when stalled. Must do some tests soon.🤔 Remember: fuses are essentially there to stop wiring bursting into flames and igniting the surroundings; house, boat, plane, model - whatever! So make sure ALL your wiring (including battery leads) is at least as thick as that on the ESC and motor! 👍 Good luck, and have fun, Doug 😎 PS I'm also single and nearly flooded the bathroom a while ago getting my 5 foot Graf Spee to float to check ballasting!! 😁

Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Many thanks to Mark, Doug and Roy for the information on prop rotation. I will now be confidant that each prop is on the correct side of the boat, wiring the motors and connecting the ESC correctly is a task for the future to say nothing of connecting the R.C. Thanks again👍

Water and Grease................ by NPJ Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Thanks for that. I have picked up one or two references elsewhere that coating all connections made in wiring and servo connections is a good precaution. Also coating exposed circuit boards would benefit them. It is extremely unlikely that I would ever wish to make alterations to such boards, so if it does no harm and may be of benefit then I will have a go. You were right on the rudder links Mark. Better now that I have given them some 'slack' so will just use 3 in 1. All the best. NPJ

Water and Grease................ by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
To be honest, I have never heard of the stuff, hence no comment!!! I will only advise if i have used the item or product. Do you think you will need that? Possibly WD40 would work just to dispel any moisture, If you spray sealed the circuit boards it might make it difficult to alter the wiring etc, only a thought as i said i have never used the product Mark