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>> Home > Tags > wiring

wiring
wiring
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!) Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then. Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos. First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. If any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin. I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place. Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉 I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too! Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓

Intermittent radio problems by robhenry Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
Thank you for another good suggestion. Wiring on both my crash tenders is getting old (like me ! !).Will check it out carefully. Rob

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi, Doug: I’ve got a question about the resistors that’ll be needed for each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights. This may seem like a dumb question to an expert like you but please don’t laugh too hard. Anyway, do these resistors need to be installed as close as close as possible to the anode or can they be located some distance away, maybe as much as a foot or so? I don’t know yet what the value or physical size of the resistors will be but I’m pretty sure that the space inside the Richardson’s mast isn’t large enough to house the wiring for the LEDs & the resistors, too. If they can be installed farther away, I was thinking I could put the six resistors on a small board & install it inside the large cabin under the pilot house. When resistors are used in LED circuits do they get warm or even hot? If so, I can open up the dummy rectangular portholes & install black fine-mesh nylon screens in the openings. If heat isn’t a concern then I won’t sweat it (bad pun there, sorry). The hardest part of my project will probably be finding a good online source for the various electronic parts I’ll need. There used to be a great electronics supply store about two miles from my home. Coincidentally, that store was less than a block up the street from a hobby shop where I did business for almost fifty years. Now both stores are long gone. Sniff.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Evenin' Ed, Yep! Starboard MCR U/S 😡 What is it the explosives experts yell before they fire a charge or test a cannon? 'FIRE IN THE HOLD' Got a bit exciting for a moment, good example of what LiPos can do if unleashed the wrong way😲 All the motor and battery lead soldering melted and they just dropped off 🤔 Whatapong😡 Pics show the good port one and what's left of the stbd one, and the rest of the rat's nest in the boat. The ESCs are not much bigger than my thumb nail so I'm not really surprised one couldn't cut the mustard! Not sure if the wiring was faulty, cos apparently it did run before I bought it, or if the motor was defect or shaft stiff. Shaft seemed to move by hand OK though. Dunno🤔 Never mind, looking for beefier replacements on Conrad, they usually deliver in 1 or 2 days 😊 Now I'm pulling all the wiring out and will rebuild the Engine Rooms, MCR and COMMS Office 😉 While I'm at it I'll dismantle the shafts, clean and lubricate and fit oilers. Now to sort Martin's little snag!🤓 Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Martin, there's loads of the little beasts here on eBay UK, and cheaper than mine was here in Germany 😭 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675... More on the charger later, I just melted an ESC in my PTB 😡 Odd, port engine worked, stbd 'Machinery Control Room' burst into flames. And no, I didn't wire it up! I bought it 'as is' to renovate and convert to PT109, what else!? Now about to rip out all the wiring and do it My Way (thanks to Frank😉) Ciao, Doug PS HobbyKing do have some, but more expensive which is unusual for them😲 and not in stock in UKor EU warehouse😭 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/cellmaster-7-digital-battery-hea... SORRY🤔 forget this last one, they put a servo tester where on mine the NiMH tester is!

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
See where you're coming from John. But what would be the point? The bulb is only connected to one output of the RX board so has no influence on other circuits. Pete; same applies to the 'resistor' idea. Plus; the bulb's DC resistance is around the square root of not very much!😲 I've found some pics of the internal wiring of the Richardson, samples attached, and am trying to figure out what we can do to maximise the flexibility of the existing function switches. Your pic of the cabin roof connections has given me an idea Pete 👍 More later, plus some LED basics for future reference.😉 Happy Tugging All, cheers Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
I don’t see why not. I assume an LED would operate at a cooler temperature than an incandescent bulb, too, even a small low wattage Christmas tree lightbulb. I was thinking about taking the pilot house apart to replace the dark-tinted plastic windows with clear ones because as it is the helm, binnacle & other details are almost impossible to see. Not only could I replace the existing ceiling light, I could also make openings for routing the mast light LED wiring through.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Pete, sorry no attachment found!🤔 Or did you just type copy from the booklet? Is there a pic of the circuit board and wiring in the booklet? Maybe the board is marked with L2 etc to identify the outputs! That would be too easy though 😉 The bulb: can you see it from outside? A white LED should be 'see through' or milky and look like the attached pic. Ciao, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Pete, Some basics. If you want to run 5 LEDs from 7.2V this is the circuit you need. See pdf. Click the file icon and then 'Download' in the top left of the disply to view and download the file as pdf. If you want to drive 6 LEDs you insert the 6th in the third branch and change the resistor to 62 Ohm, like the first two branches. Current drawn remains 60mA, power consumption drops a few mW. Any dropping resistor fitted on the circuit board must be shorted out or replaced with a tinned copper wire link, if possible. More on that later. Instructions for wiring up, and finding out where!, follow this evening. cheers Doug 😎 BTW: does this look like the circuit board you have? (Last two pics.) Same part # JH-003R ?

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Thanks, guys! I appreciate your input. I was actually planning on using a multimeter to try to identify which wire goes what. This particular model has three different wiring harnesses coming up from below. Each harness has a unique connector that plugs into sockets on the underside of the pilot house. I appreciate this feature because it allows for complete removal of the pilot house. An added bonus for my idea of adding LED navigation lights to the mast is that I also have free access to the pins in each connector. It seems logical that I could determine which wires go where through the process of elimination, although this method may cause damage from shorts or it may take so long to figure out that I’ll die of extreme old age before I crack the code. I’m not certain but the bottom cover of the pilot house may be removable which would make the job dead simple by drawing a pinout diagram for each connector. I love a challenge as long as it’s not destructive.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi, everyone: I have a Hobby Engine Richardson Tugboat that I’m about 98% happy with just as it came out of the box. The 2% that I’d like to add would be to rebuild the main mast & replace the “dummy” mast-mounted navigation lights with LEDs. The mast has a partially open back with molded-on ladder rungs. I plan to use the open area for wiring, then add a back cover & bent wire rungs. The boat has working red & green sidelights, working rear deck area floodlights, a working searchlight on the pilot house roof & working pilot house interior lighting. Each of the “white” lights have individual on & off function switches on the transmitter, which is excellent. But for some odd reason the red & green sidelights are turned on & off separately. Ideally, what I would like to do is combine the sidelights so they switch on & off together with one transmitter switch & use the now “spare” transmitter switch to turn the new mast-mounted “white” lights on & off. I realize my plan may not be possible but I really would like my idea to work. Note that the tug has a short mast attached to the aft pilot house railing. This mast has two dummy navigation lights & the main mast has three. I plan to remove the short mast & add two aft-facing lights to the main mast. I’ll need help with wiring power correctly for the five new LEDs. I’d like to tap into the boat’s 7.2 volt battery power, but it might be best to add a separate battery box. I’d really appreciate ideas. Can anyone offer advice about my project? Is it feasible to do or should I leave well enough alone? Thanks.

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
OK. Thanks TJ👍 John, the old Sanwa receivers and servos have the + and - supply leads reversed as compared with all modern stuff, JR/Futaba etc!! That means that they have the negative in the middle of the plug and the positive on the outside, at the edge of the RX case! All modern kit has positive in the centre and negative at the outside, edge of the RX case!! Beware, I learned the hard way 😡 Tell us what you want to do and maybe we can help with wiring diagrams etc. PM me the details 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Tamiya Tape! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ron, don't worry👍 I already sent Ed some wiring diagrams with resistor calcs for his LED circuits and links to resistor sources in the US. BTW: I assume you meant Component Shop, or maybe RS Components? Otherwise just 'components' could mean anything / anywhere, especially to Ed who is in USA! Thanks for responding anyway👍 Cheers Doug 😎