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Wooden structure model fishing boats. Was done on his knee at home in the kitchen from the remnants of plywood, balsa etc. Motor 1 pc 600 with water cooling, 1pc battery NiCd 3000 mA. Excellent handling characteristics. Even though it was not good at handling the water looks great.
Yep, Ikea wooden blinds are a good source of Lime wood, unfortunately they have stopped making that sort, so it is looking in skip times. Cut into strips and the coating sanded off are excellent for plank on frame boats, also good for deck planking and will take a stain. Alan
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
Hi midlife306 Welcome to the site. Impressive looking model and its will look spectacular once painted. Is it mainly wood construction? If so are you intending to cover the wood inside and out to protect against water? If you are intending to use IC engines you need to find some where to sail as most waters prohibit their use mainly due to the noise and pollution. The hull is a fast racing hull that would suit a brushless set up with LiPos. There are many configurations and I suspect a surface piercing prop is one option. I suggest you find a local model boat club near to you and go and see if they run fast race boats. There is a section on this site for Model Boat Clubs that will help you find one locally.Hopefully they will be able to guide you into the best set up for this hull. I have a fellow club member who is really into speed and he sources his bits from Prestwich Model Centre but also from the States. Please keep us posted on progress and do keep asking for help and advice, it may just save you from making costly mistakes. Dave
Hi aeromodeller Welcome to the site. Sounds like a good project. Delaminated wood is not good so I hope your glue and clamps will fix the problem. Is the hull painted? It is usually best to strip back to the wood and cover with cloth and resin all over plus more resin on the inside to keep the water away from the wood. With your timescale this may not be an option, but you could possibly tissue cover the hull with sanding sealer/dope then repaint. Even a coat of dope on the inside will help. You will need a brushless ESC with reverse. If the propshaft is damaged or you can feel play in the bearings it may need replacing or new bearings fitted to the proptube. The rudder will need a servo and you should be good to go. Not sure of the price of crystals but you can buy 2.4Ghz cheap combo set for about £20 and even the short range will not be a problem for a model boat. A pic will allow more specific support for the model Dave
I built mine a couple of years ago. The wood is good quality and the metal fittings dont take much cleaning up. My fireboat runs of a brushless motor running of lipos batteries and performs well. I used auto paints regards the finish. and very pleased with it. It performs a good as my 49" Perkasa which runs of two brushless motors with the lipos wired in series.
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1200g Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Geared to a Graupner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: 18" of Ice covers the pond so much of the information requested must remain blank. The boat has only seen the bathtub ! No leaks. Stable and balanced. Paint is acrylic, clear-coated wood is mahogany. This is a Nor-Star Kingfisher kit with some alterations and added details. Looking forward to posting a video of the boat running on the lake in April after the ice leaves.
The Brentwood Model Yacht & Powerboat Club was founded on the 1st July 1988, with the main interest being model yachts. In July 2013, on our 25th Anniversary, the club changed its name to the Brentwood Model Boat Club. The new name was brought in to reflect that the clubs diverse association with all types & forms of model boating & not just confined to the yachting & power boat racing. At the end of 2014, the club was split into two separate clubs. This was primarily to allow flexibility to each new club to run things independently, as they see fit, to suit our vastly different lake environments. Both clubs have retained a common name & association with each other, but are now known as Brentwood Model Boat Club (for old Scale Section) & Brentwood Model Yacht & Power Boat Club (for old Power & Yacht Sections).
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks. Richard i am going to use Zap penit
ive a large collection of model boats (72) some complete some not complete , ranging from wooden to fibreglass the collection incs lots of new and used hulls , serious amounts of plans , new and old books , model boat mags , a lot of parts - props motors , radio controls , over 20 yachet sails with masts too much to mention and photograph if anyone is interested in this full collection or making a serious dent in the collection , contact me on phone 07941140146👍
Hey all, I'm new here. I'm just finishing off a 36" Aerokits RAF Crash Tender that was started in 1962 a couple of generations ago in my family. Keeping it a basic build to the kit for now. While researching stuff I came across HSL 102 and am keen to build a model? Does anyone have leads on getting plans? I have found an information brochure with basic deck plan outline and a long section (no offsets) and also no cross sections at bulkheads... I'm guessing any 100 class info would be useful. Prefer to build out of wood, less interested in plastic. Have scratch built before as a school project in 1990's, jet sprint boat.
[Score: 8/10] 46"/3600g Boaty Mcboaty Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a Jp EnerGpro (2 Blade S Type) Controlled Through Jp EnerGpro (100Amps) ESC - Comments: I am building a Aerokits Sea Queen, I intend initially using a 12v lead acid and maybe going to 24v when sorted ,I am about half way at the moment and looking forcan Easter launch date , I like working with wood rather than plastic and much prefer the older more traditional style boats If anyone is interested I am having a clear out of all my other boats to raise funds for new projects and space Please feel free to contact me if your interested , Iam getting flak from the sub - Lieutenant
Looks like an excellent job and you'll have a good base for the final finish. I wish I had known about this technique two and a half years ago when I restored a 1962 34 inch Crash Tender which was advertised in the local paper. The boat had been daubed in yellow primer with the cabin roof missing and I stripped it down to the bare wood. The only consolation was that it had never had an I.C installed and so the interior was clean. The position of the holes in the motor mount appeared to indicate that the power unit had been one of the medium sized Taycol motors. 😊 Boaty.
Hi Onetenor Thank you for your advice, It is well taken. I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic. Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but, I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course. My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin. Ed