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Model Boats Website Team
January 2019: 13 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 20 people
Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.
Hi Sakibian, The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats. My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. It was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. It sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions. I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
A mold of the St200 raf rescue boat was made by Neil Howard Pritchard from fleetwood who subsequently gave away to Steve Tranter of Model Boat bits....Alas Steve sold it on to a chap who he beleives to be from the Midlands who was going to use the hulls for Kids ready to run boats at his club and lived around an hour from his home in Telford.Now this Mold must be somewhere if anyone knows of it's whereabouts or any info leading to finding it As I would like to produce a kit of this Model could you please contact me ALL INFO will be treated in confidence...Thanks
After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel. The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape. Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.
Hi Brianaro, many thanks for that. i am about to go and check that out. As well as my old 70's wooden Precedent Huntsman, I also have an MFA Spearfish still in the box not touched yet. I had one back in the 80's with an Irvine 61 in it and it was a great fun boat. I did plan to do the same again with it but with the constant banning of using IC engines on the ponds around area's in the UK I suppose it will end up brushless. I know they are if not faster then IC now but the cost battery wise, now being retired the funds aren't as easily found now. The sad part is I still have 2 new SC 91's, 1 new SC 61 and a Irvine 120 all still new, never been run. I think there might also be an Irvine 61 that has no box. As well as a Zenoah 26c all pimped up in purple only run in ready to be put in a boat. Shed full of both engines and boats, some boats still new in the boxes still waiting to be built. Hopefully I will get to build them before I pop me clogs.
Ahoy Maties! It's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. It measures 24 X 8.5 inches. It is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁
RNinMunich wrote Hi Chris, If 'HE' "is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them" why are they such 'freehand' rubbish? Surely the 'original kit drawings' were not! No, you misunderstand , the original drawings are great, but aerokits never included frames with their plans as the frames were pre cut in the kit "HE" blatantly copies the Aerokit plan then hand draws the frames which are Crap. The side and plan view are excellent copies , but his selling point is he is the only person who includes the frames with his plans which he says are drawn to a high standard. In fact he says just put the frame drawings on the wood and cut out . That would be fine if you want a twisted boat . You cant make a straight boat when the two sides of a frame are not mirror images of each other Don
Well I sent him an ebay msg expressing how displeased I was with the quality of his High Standard drawings and he said send them back for a full refund , so thats fair enough I suppose. Its just a shame that a lot more people will also fall for the same thing . I did ask him if Stevie Wonder had drawn them He did try the trick of saying it says printed to a high standard but I pointed out it said Hand Drawn & printed ( to a high standard ). I did suggest he changed his listing to say hand drawn to the best of my ability which is pretty poor but printed to a high standard. It also says on the listing just transfer the drawings to the wood and cut them out. Well considering the frames are not mirror images side to side thats going to make a very twisted boat
I have acquired an old 50cm wooden model boat which requires a vintage style electric outboard motor. I am finding sourcing a motor very difficult. I would welcome advice. I am willing to take a second hand motor if anyone has one.
Hello Joe Many thanks for the reply and the offer of help. I have built several model boats of different styles and also a 'Bella' yacht kit from Aeronaut. I prefer building plank on frame and find it quite therapeutic especially as I love wood. My next step is to build a beautiful sailing boat hull and the 1mtr style would suit I think. I am not planning to race the boat and might even not rig it but just have the pleasure of the build. If you can help I would be obliged best regards Chris G
I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort. The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden bulkheads. Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other members of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books. Many thanks Chris G
1 - I concur with figtree7nts. You don't want a long length of unsupported floppy tube transmitting power. You will see that my illustrations show the unsupported tube to be very short. 2 - You also want thick tube to transmit power. if you have thin 2-3mm tube that will easily kink. I make my own connectors at the ends of each shaft to bring the internal tube diameter up to about 6-8mm. 3 - If you want to try a quick fix for what you have, I would suggest putting a small piece of wood or plastic inside the unsupported section of your tube, which will stop it collapsing when it is twisted. This may work if the torque is not high. And it's a quick, cheap thing to try. 4 - if you want to try making your own, you could get something like this - check the correct shaft size - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Hexagon-Flexible-Coupling-C... or this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coupling-Inserts-for-RC-Models-Va... and then buy a length of something like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Food-Grade-Clear-Translucent-S... checking the diameters that you need, of course... Here is a similar Eezebilt to your craft. It's the OSA Missile boat. You can see that the unsupported length of silicone is short, and this boat at 32 inches takes quite a lot of power...
Managed to fit the gantry and mast and made the sail. To get the right cloth I used and old pillowcase (well I think it was old) and painted it both sides with wood stain / varnish. Happy with the finish. As with all my models I always put a piece that my Dad made on the boat, this time it is the wooden pulley block.