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>> Home > Tags > wood boat

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Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

VALIANT by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 48" VALIANT Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 70mm) Geared to a 540 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 14Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks Viper marine (25Amps) ESC - Comments: This tug was built by a modeler in Bristol during the early 1960's it was given to me at the Abergavenny Steam and vintage show in 2016 by the makers grandson who told me it had been on display in his mums house from 1970 when his grandad died till 1987 when she died then put in his parents attic till it was given to me. it had a couple of holes in the hull and the upper works had been broken so required fixing. not having any pictures I used all the original bits that came with it so I hope it looks as it should. It's made mostly from balsa with some wooden bits and replacement planking from coffee stirrers otherwise all original. It requires 2 x 12v 7ah lead acid batteries and about 5 kilograms of ballast. (Silver Sand in 500grm packs). On the only test run I've managed to tow a 16 foot fishing boat with three men on my local fishing lake.

Boat Stand by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Tug Brooklyn comes with a temporary boat stand, included in the kit. It's OK for building the kit. but not for full time use! A wood stand should be created! oh, the Tug Jersey City didn't come with a boat stand! just the outline drawn on paper! Made mine out of form!

Thurl pin rack by SelwynWilliams Admiral   Posted: 15 days ago
We use thorl pins in wooden boats instead of rowlocks where the wood attached to the oar has a hole and the wooden cheek's weight counter balances the weight of the length of the oar. Interesting to know the connection with belaying pins and the quick release of the shrouds by knocking them out. thowel Thole Thole, n. [Written also thowel, and thowl.] [OE. thol, AS. [thorn]ol; akin to D. dol, Icel. [thorn]ollr a fir tree, a young fir, a tree, a thole.] A wooden or metal pin, set in the gunwale of a boat, to serve as a fulcrum for the oar in rowing. --Longfellow.

Thurl pin rack by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Thank you all so much for the links and information. Every day is a school day 😁 Thanks Dave for the photo's, they have thrown light on something I was not sure of 👍 I will be making the Thurl pin rack out of some hard wood and tooth picks, eventually. I have uploaded a photo (I hope) of the boat as far as I have got, its a slow build as there are a lot of little bits to make. Alan

Too Powerful Brushless ? by BOATSHED Admiral   Posted: 15 days ago
Great bit of information , Many thanks pmdevlin. I have only ever used 5mm shaft's and gone out with a variation of small to medium nylon prop's and played on the pond bank with them until I got one suitable. Then I would go for a cast alloy or bronze to that size. But this has been on IC engines, up until about 3 years ago. I have used the same way on brushless since. I have seen others using thinner 4 mm shafts and having problems. I have also always used a prop shaft support under the boat and if I have any type of gap between the coupling and where the shaft goes through the hull I would always add a wedge of wood epoxied in. Once again no backlash on the shaft to make it come loose. The only time I have damaged shafts has been through sheer stupidity racing round a pond with others and misjudging the distance and the bank jumps out and collides with the boat. Whoops broadsides with a nice hard concrete bank and, Yep new shaft needed. But as you say the throttle stick will take you from as slow as you want to flat out. Except when it's IC slow isn't always possible if you do not have a clutch fitted.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

New build by Baggie Admiral   Posted: 21 days ago
Hello everyone - just wanted some advice on the best working tray/ specific model making accessories etc as I have bought my first Billings wooden boat kit. Any advice welcome. Thank you

Ciao bambina by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 1/10] 34" Ciao bambina Twin Propellors Direct Drive - Comments: This is Project 1, a scratch build Riva Aquarama from Plans, with laser cut marine ply as the basis for the bulkheads etc. Started on 5 April 2016 and in the space of 6 days got to stringers, which is where it all seemed to go wrong. Try as I might I couldn’t get them to bend around, using balsa wood and various techniques. I left it to one side to concentrate on Project 2, and haven’t picked it up since, hence the poor rating I have given it. It will be finished at some stage, probably after I have completed my Sea Commander and the other Riva boat. I will update with more pics as I go along.

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

Riva Chris Craft by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Finally the Riva completed. Numerous varnishing and rubbing down Dumas sent from America chrome fittings which gives really good finishing touch Built from plans and scrap plywood and veneer. So much more pleasure making than from kit. Will launch at Torrevieja boat club second Sunday of the month .

Spraying/hand painting by boaty Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I have used Halfords acrylic when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

Clearing out my fleet! by PhilCo Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
Job lot, one buyer only! I need the garage space back! 3 x Radio 10 Raters - two have 1 rig & winches, 2 FG & 1 Wood 1 x Complete IOM - 1 Rig & whirlwind winch FG 2 x IOM hulls only - 1 Planked & 1 very light FG & carbon fin 1 x Marblehead - complete FG Red - 1 x rig winch rx 1 x Planked hull 58" (6M ?) Graham Bantock 1 Rig & winch 1 x 1950's A-Boat (FG & Huge!) Rigging very old & original 2 x Hulls & original mould for 50's A-Boat + 3 x steel keels 1 x Victoria Class - Rigging in peices as I was going to CF it. 1 x Another kit in a box 675 class or something? 1 x Fleetwood Flyer - two suits no radio gear Various Futaba radios, servos & other oddments. May also throw in a couple of old air-planes. A rig for measuring the IOM hulls. An old Tony Abel winch... Serious clearout, may find more bits. It's not that modern & some will need a bit of fettling but grab yourself a substantial number of models! Difficult to get pictures as the garage is rammed full,but I have a few I am asking a reasonable £500 for the lot. Buyer to collect from Burnham, South Bucks nr Jcn 7 M4

my life boats by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
BRAVO ZULU! I LOVE DOUBLE-ENDERS. THIS IS MY USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT (POSTED) BEAUTIFUL WORK, SIR.