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Model Boats Website Team
February 2017: 6 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people July 2016: 4 people June 2016: 1 person May 2016: 1 person April 2016: 9 people March 2016: 5 people February 2016: 5 people
I built mine a couple of years ago. The wood is good quality and the metal fittings dont take much cleaning up. My fireboat runs of a brushless motor running of lipos batteries and performs well. I used auto paints regards the finish. and very pleased with it. It performs a good as my 49" Perkasa which runs of two brushless motors with the lipos wired in series.
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1200g Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Geared to a Graupner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: 18" of Ice covers the pond so much of the information requested must remain blank. The boat has only seen the bathtub ! No leaks. Stable and balanced. Paint is acrylic, clear-coated wood is mahogany. This is a Nor-Star Kingfisher kit with some alterations and added details. Looking forward to posting a video of the boat running on the lake in April after the ice leaves.
The Brentwood Model Yacht & Powerboat Club was founded on the 1st July 1988, with the main interest being model yachts. In July 2013, on our 25th Anniversary, the club changed its name to the Brentwood Model Boat Club. The new name was brought in to reflect that the clubs diverse association with all types & forms of model boating & not just confined to the yachting & power boat racing. At the end of 2014, the club was split into two separate clubs. This was primarily to allow flexibility to each new club to run things independently, as they see fit, to suit our vastly different lake environments. Both clubs have retained a common name & association with each other, but are now known as Brentwood Model Boat Club (for old Scale Section) & Brentwood Model Yacht & Power Boat Club (for old Power & Yacht Sections).
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks. Richard i am going to use Zap penit
ive a large collection of model boats (72) some complete some not complete , ranging from wooden to fibreglass the collection incs lots of new and used hulls , serious amounts of plans , new and old books , model boat mags , a lot of parts - props motors , radio controls , over 20 yachet sails with masts too much to mention and photograph if anyone is interested in this full collection or making a serious dent in the collection , contact me on phone 07941140146👍
Hey all, I'm new here. I'm just finishing off a 36" Aerokits RAF Crash Tender that was started in 1962 a couple of generations ago in my family. Keeping it a basic build to the kit for now. While researching stuff I came across HSL 102 and am keen to build a model? Does anyone have leads on getting plans? I have found an information brochure with basic deck plan outline and a long section (no offsets) and also no cross sections at bulkheads... I'm guessing any 100 class info would be useful. Prefer to build out of wood, less interested in plastic. Have scratch built before as a school project in 1990's, jet sprint boat.
[Score: 8/10] 46"/3600g Boaty Mcboaty Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a Jp EnerGpro (2 Blade S Type) Controlled Through Jp EnerGpro (100Amps) ESC - Comments: I am building a Aerokits Sea Queen, I intend initially using a 12v lead acid and maybe going to 24v when sorted ,I am about half way at the moment and looking forcan Easter launch date , I like working with wood rather than plastic and much prefer the older more traditional style boats If anyone is interested I am having a clear out of all my other boats to raise funds for new projects and space Please feel free to contact me if your interested , Iam getting flak from the sub - Lieutenant
Looks like an excellent job and you'll have a good base for the final finish. I wish I had known about this technique two and a half years ago when I restored a 1962 34 inch Crash Tender which was advertised in the local paper. The boat had been daubed in yellow primer with the cabin roof missing and I stripped it down to the bare wood. The only consolation was that it had never had an I.C installed and so the interior was clean. The position of the holes in the motor mount appeared to indicate that the power unit had been one of the medium sized Taycol motors. 😊 Boaty.
Hi Onetenor Thank you for your advice, It is well taken. I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic. Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but, I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course. My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin. Ed
The skins have now had plenty of time to set and now need trimming top bottom & stern, the skin is first trimmed with a saw along the chine and then planed flush. Similarly the top of the skin is trimmed and planed flush with the deck all the way round including the transom. I can now shape the keel to the hull profile, fill the nail holes and a tiny bit of filler on the bow and rub it all down to get quite a nice 'pointy'end. The filler is a two part wood filler from Screwfix that is not as 'hard' as Isopon P38 and can be sanded a lot more easily without removing too much of the surrounding area, it's also wood colour ! I'm very pleased with the bow section, particularly as I remember making a bit of a hash of it on my first boat, but then I was only 15 years old. I need to think about the motor and mount so that I can set the prop shaft in the keel but before that I need to make a supporting cradle for the hull as it's getting a bit big for the bench now.
H Rob, really nice woodwork skills, I am unable to do that! I just rescue other peoples builds and make them pretty! If I may, I have some concerns about your drivetrain, something I have spent a lot of time testing etc. That motor, with nimhs just isn't going to deliver the power needed to push this heavy old girl along, please consider lipo's, or even twin screw, you still have time to do this, its very easy, I did it! As you have seen on the youtube videos, these boats where fast, they handle real great in a straight line, its cornering that things get difficult. One real good tip, make sure the spray rails are square profile. HS93 told me this, and it works a treat to aid turning at speeds, this hull wants to roll quite a lot! Regarding the mysterious rear light, I saw a picture years ago, it was blue, we thing it had something to do with pre trial river requirements, I cannot find that info anywhere, so left it off mine. Paul
[Score: 8/10] 36"/4100g 36 Rater model yacht Powered by NiMH (6v) Batteries - Comments: Purchased at Henly on Thames wooden boat show in May 2016 again by my brother in law who likes to see me recycle old model boats. Thin GRP hull with stess fractures one mast and one thick canvas sail. Hull was coated with polyester resin and model aircraft wing cloth rubbed down and recoated with another application of resin rubbed down and painted with three coats Yellow machinery enamel after having been redecked with 1/16" ply fitted out with four turn sail winch and standard Futaba servo for rudder via flexible cable connection. As there are no restrictions on sail sizes and the original mast was in three sections at 196cm I replaced the centre 40 cm shorter in effect creating a no2 or B rig from Mylar type plastic sheet. Jib and Main made from four panels each and using a Claudio Gadget to create a curve in each sail.
Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so In Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.