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>> Home > Tags > wood boat

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Fibreglass the hull- continued by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth. Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research –  Epoxy is more versatile  Epoxy has fewer fumes  Epoxy is stronger  Epoxy shrinks less Conclusion Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures. After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem. Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.

Wherry hull in GRP by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
I am truly sorry if I have thrown a spanner in the works. I saw the picture and was surprised on the height the bow went. I do spend a lot of time up on the Norfolk Broads. The Avatar I have is my boat that I have moored in Hebert Woods Boat yard in Potter Heigham. I have seen the Wherries on the river many times and just had to point the error out. Once again I'm sorry to have ruined your dream of getting the correct model.

wheelhouse amd bridge by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain. I cut all the pieces for the wheelhouse out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside. The floor of the wheelhouse was planked along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted. The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush. After drying the outside of the wheelhouse was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue. Aft of the wheelhouse are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs. Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel for the runners. The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.

Sea Commander restoration tips by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin

WoodenBoat Magazine by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Martin, welcome back👍 This started off here https://model-boats.com/forum/hobby-chit-chat/41382?goto=413... Cheers Doug 😎

WoodenBoat Magazine by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hello mein Freund im Munchen, long time time no talk. Tell me, it's so long since I was here, where is the rest of the thread? Cheers, Martin

WoodenBoat Magazine by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm not😉 Well done Ron 👍 Credit where .... !

Just for fun by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ron, I have posted your skiff on the Launchings Online section of our website. It can take some time for these posts to upload, but later today you should be able to see it at: https://www.woodenboat.com/boat-launchings/harbour-pram. Kind regards, Robin Jettinghoff

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Way to go man!!! At the risk of becoming monotonous 🤓 Brilliant woodwork and fittings 👍 Did you make the pulleys yourself? Looks like stainless, if so Hat Off Sir 👍👍 PLEASE DON'T PAINT THAT LOVELY CLINKER BOAT!!😲 It would look Soooo good varnished to your usual standard, and I'm pretty sure from the photos of the original that only the canvas cover was blue. Surely the boat itself was varnished. More power to your rigging, Cheers Doug 😎

wood glue by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi dennisw - I use both Titebond 3 (green label) and the Aliphatic Sandable Wood Glue which I get from Cornwall Model Boats (not the first plug I have given them but no connection, just a very satisfied customer). It is described as "quick grab, excellent sanding, shock & weather resistant, bonds porous materials, ply, balsa and hardwoods, non-toxic and non-fuming". So far it has not let me down. Best of luck with your build. Smiffy

wood glue by dennisw Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I have not built a wooden boat for some years what make of glue would anyone recommend , I am in the u.k.👍

Amsterdam Tug renovation/converstion by PMBDTCentral Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Picked up a rather battered wooden hulled Amsterdam tug last Thursday. The intention is to give it some much needed TLC and convert it to one of the French Tenace Class tugs. It will be used as my clubs camera / rescue boat so accuracy and detail will come second to the functionality of its role. Currently I have stripped out everything except the motor so I can fit some strengthening and improve the watertightness of the hull

Roof Skins by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
nice job, I just cant work with wood, it hates me😁 so used plasticard, here is the hinged front windows on my pals 3 foot boat. I planned to do this, but the refurb was taking so long I decided to accelerate and get it finished, meaning I didn't do the opening windows. It will be a nice unique and accurate touch if you fancy doing it!

Superstructure by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎