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>> Home > Tags > wood

wood
wood
Riva scratch built boat update by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 hours ago
Riva Chris Craft finally finished after numerous coats of varnish and sanding.Beauty to work on especially as it was plans from Canada for 18 pounds and scrap two and three ply wood. Dumas supplied chrome accessories which gives that special look and were very helpful

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

Ebay old wood by mactin Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
This "wood" stuff is almost impossible to solder.

What is this boat ????? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's fibreglass, the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck

Riva Chris Craft by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Finally the Riva completed. Numerous varnishing and rubbing down Dumas sent from America chrome fittings which gives really good finishing touch Built from plans and scrap plywood and veneer. So much more pleasure making than from kit. Will launch at Torrevieja boat club second Sunday of the month .

Club Racer, One class by ronrees Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 18"/500g Club Racer, One class Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a 2820 x 1100kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy w/p. 30 amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is based on a Fairey Swordsman and is another of my own designs but made in Vac Formed Styrene for which the vac former was home-made as well. The model is designed specifically for youngsters and club members who want to race together. The boat only has 5 parts!! Top, bottom, rudder and servo cast assembly ( Polyester resin) and motor, prop shaft assembly also Polyester resin. A wooden frame that forms the seal and holds hull in shape. The whole top comes off. Its scarey fast and very tough (2mm styrene) and was made for under £25. Hoping build article will also go into MB magazine sometime.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks Undertaker, I will try that out on some scrap wood first, in fact I will do that with any type of paint I am going to use

Spraying/hand painting by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.

Spraying/hand painting by boaty Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
I have used Halfords acrylic when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Thank you for the replies, I can not strip all the paint from the boat as it is impractical, but I am going to flat it back over the next few days/weeks, as it is not a job I like doing, then I will wait for the warmer weather to finish it, meanwhile I will play on the lathe and do a bit of wood turning, nothing like making shavings/wood chips to while the time away 😜

Spraying/hand painting by overthesea Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
I have had the same problem, but to solve it, I stripped it all down and then used EzeKote and their micro fibre glass cloth. Super finish and I highly recommend it. You have to take the hull or whatever down to bare wood though or it will peel off. Will use the same method on all my modelss in future. Hopes this helps.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

Fire Boat 38 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
BRAVO ZULU! Great work on your maiden project. I also love using scrap & leftover template wood.

Ebay old wood and giant clockwork motors by mactin Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Haha, most excellent comments my friend! Thats the spirit!