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>> Home > Tags > wood

wood
wood
more money than sense by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 hours ago
Sooo glad you went for wood and not paint👍 BTW How did you manage to enlist God's help? Didn't know HE was a model boat enthusiast! But then again HE did command the building of the Ark 😁 Yours tongue firmly in cheek, Doug 😎

The wheelhouse navigation light. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.

Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" by lhpen Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Any one interested in buying my Yacht ? ''Starlet'' Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" all plywood construction, 11" beam x34" length, sail area 465 Sq inches. Complete with heavy duty sail arm large servo and rudder servo installed. Good sails although slightly marked and rigging. Install a receiver ready to sail.£135 Best if collected in person. Located in West Surrey.

Mini lathe by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
This is simply a revolving drill chuck.it doesn't have any longitudinal or cross feed travelling tool post and at best its only good for wood turning of very small diameter pieces of wood or polishing small parts. I don't think it suits your requirements. Colin you beat me to it by 60 seconds

Mini lathe by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Forget it, it's just a little freehand turning lathe for hobby work in soft wood and other soft materials. Meant for craft jewellery and beading work. Look for something that has a traversing tool post with crosswise adjustment. I'm lucky enough to have my late father's Unimat with a screw cutting adapter as well as a milling attachment, for larger work I have a Chester universal combination lathe/milling machine. Look in local auctions, as they are often in our local auctions in Herefordshire. Happy hunting, cheers Colin.

Mini lathe by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi y'all.I was thinking of getting one of these--https://www.banggood.com/DC-24V-Mini-Lathe-Beads-Machine-Pol... Is Raitool a good make. Seem to be. Has anyone got one Or similar? Can it be used for steel and screw cutting (with the right accessories of course)? All ideas welcome.

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Samnewbie I have a Cariad which is wooden hulled at twice scale. I decided to use a false keel but as I bought the hull completed needed to retro-fit one. I agree with you! If you can fit the tube as early on as possible it will make life a bit easier. My keel needs to be about 12kg and the tube is a couple of inches behind the mast. I am still trying to cast the keel; I'm now on my fourth attempt! I have calculated the keel weight and plan on it being about 1kg lighter than need be. This will allow me to finely trim the boat up once complete. Good luck with yours. Edward

Gwyneth by Nerys Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 25" Gwyneth Single Propellor Direct Drive - Comments: I have never added to my fleet by buying in before, but looking at the Bring and Buy stall at the Blackpool show recently I couldn't resist this little boat. I like fishing boats anyway, but this boat was beautifully built, clinker on frame, planked decks, good standard of woodwork, altogether, a worthy addition to my fleet. I sailed her for the first time today and was well pleased with her performance.

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc.... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Useful to know about Vanish. It certainly worked on my Star yacht sails. Fortunately the sails on the Ailsa yacht are lovely anyway, just some new rigging cord required. I would say the sails were the same as bed sheets. I used some white spirit to clean the deck on the Ailsa. Most of the dirt being handling muck. Then I waxed it with 3M wax...twice. It's wonderful stuff which I bought for our historic narrowboat's new paintwork. It was a wooden boat and when I replaced the cabins and had painted them with Tra-mar Coatings hand made enamel paint, I waxed them with 3M's wax and they went another 3 winters before I sold the boat, with the rain still rolling off in beads. The Ailsa is now waiting for some spar varnish over the repair's creamish paint. I couldn't match it perfectly, but I didn't want to repaint the whole hull. All the repairs are under the waterline so it shouldn't show. The Star...I never heard of them using aluminium for masts. How would they have kept the rigging eyes in place? Martin

Spray paints by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
This looks handy folks.---https://www.metals4u.co.uk/tools/c190/decorating- style='background-color:yellow;'>wood-care/c2518/paints-spray-paints/c2846/decorative-sprays/c3834?source=mailer&utm_campaign=m4u+nov+2018&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_content=&utm_medium=email 👍

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc.... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I think Hydrogen Peroxide is the active ingredient in Vanish and the like. It is regarded as "The Safe Bleach" in the cleaning products industry. It remains active on cleaned surfaces for up to 72 hrs.Hypochlorite types only for as long as you can smell them. It is safe to use on just about any surface or fabric and mixed with a small amount of say washing up liquid it will clean body fats from baths and showers and other fats from cookers and work surfaces. Also removes mould etc. It produces no toxic fumes and is safe on the skin. I worked for a company called Environmental Chemicals who were devoted to safer cleansing alternatives. You would be amazed at it's effect on a previously washed bread board. I won't list all they made but the one with the HP in it was very popular with industry and the public. I could identify most of their chemicals used by smell and Hydrogen Peroxide was one. Well not so much a smell but it's action on my nasal passages. Likewise with gas fire and boiler fumes. A very handy thing to have when I was plumbing/gas fitting. Anyway back to the point. You can bleach your sails safely with it as often as you like to make them as white (or_ grey) as you like. It also shifts grime from painted/varnished wood and metals. A mention was made by someone (Westie ?)of metal masts etc on a star Yacht. I thought all Star yachts had all wooden masts and spars. I knew the Denyes.Jean-Jacques in particular and was allowed into the hallowed halls once or twice but didn't see everything. I was told that after the war wood was in short supply and old mangle rollers that were made with apple wood were sought and used . I am waiting to get back on my feet to restore the two yachts I was given for my two boys at that time.Around '67/68. Only the smaller unnamed ones. I don't know what no they are. I've already made a mast for one but all metal fittings will need cutting out afresh and new suits of sails acquired. Regarding sails. Handkerchiefs are too fine a material to allow recovery in a blow down. They don't allow the water out so keep the yacht flat. Anyone know of an alternative solution? Sorry to go on but I hope this diatribe has been helpful to someone.👍

First Dip !! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Lovely woodwork Canabus, especially around the stern 👍👍👍 Hope you're not going to cover it up with paint!! 😲 Hat off! 😉

Bluebird by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27" Bluebird Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 2881kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ETTI (120Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a Touchwood static kit that my boy brought back from Coniston, it said it could be converted to Rc and had some sketchy drawings that were not very good. I decided to go brushless with it and lipo battery, was not an easy job as had to go it alone to find out C/G and drive set up. The kit was very poor with a twisted hull and resin parts that were far too heavy, I made some aluminium planing wedges and various other parts to save weight. This project took the best part of 5 years to complete as it would go back on the shelf as I got stumped for ideas then back off again as I found a bit more inspiration, overal it came out well and runs on rails with. Good turn of speed as you can see in the vid I posted.

Cabin roof hatches by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use Cascamite. I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. In the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra £20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?