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>> Home > Tags > wood

Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.

Skylight by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Mare the glass frames for the skylight. They're hinged so I can get a finger inside to flip the power switch on or off. They're made from clear plastic from some packaging, basswood, and brass wire.

test float by jacko Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
today test sailing on Woodbridge boat pond sailed like a dream

vintage yacht (Victoria) by jacko Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
will be building 2 rigs for sailing normal and gaff as a test i will be using ripstop nylon and temp rigging

woodbridge model boat club by jacko Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
more info to follow we sail at woodbridge boat pond

Cabin roofs by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

Totnes Castle 1894 by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Companionway & skylights. I took a strip of clear plastic, this cam off packaging of some sort. Strips of wood stuck on with contact adhesive. (evo stick) Scored the corners bent around fitted in place. It fits so will remove & paint wood white. Then stick hard wood strips on the out side.

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by Lauriem Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
I'm starting to build a Veron kit of the Vosper Rescue-target towing launch, which I bought on Ebay. This boat seems quite rare - well to me anyway - although Belair sell one currently which is similar but slightly larger (34in long - mine is 28in). The kit is obviously old and if anyone knows when these were sold then please let me know. The structure is balsa - not my favourite wood - and ply for the exterior. Balsa does not hold temporary or permanent pins well, and holding things in position while the glue dries is made more difficult. The balsa has been pre-cut to shape and several of the curved pieces are weak in places where the grain is inevitably across the length of the piece. I broke several parts and needed ply backing to repair. Glue used is 5 min epoxy. The keel is made up of several pieces and to get the right shape I photocopied part of the plan and laid the parts on that to set while gluing.

knitting pins by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Just thought always looking for that odd bit of rod for bits of stancion etc so there in the box with the "that will come in handy one day bits".would be better knitting some of the bits might not need as much wood filler. CHEERS Marky

Fitting Propshafts by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Rather than a model of a rope making machine, Doug, this is a machine for making model rope. Always wanted one, in case I ever make that marvellous wooden ship model. Martin

U-181 by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Doug, I have used the floating periscope on my other submarine too. On that one there are two sets of two. If the periscope tubes slide easily and the float is big enough then it will work. I have used aluminium tubes on the HMS Triumph. The U boat scopes are both aluminium. They are loose so I can put one or both in before sailing. The floats are balsa wood and painted for sealing.

U-181 by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
My crew were made by Shapeways. Somewhat expensive, but I needed an unusual scale. I asked a question and the designer got back to me. I was able to select from a few different groups and he also did a few pose mods. The crew is available as U-181. I think they can be scaled down to any scale, although the Revell U-boat crew are also available and a lot cheaper. Some of them now sail on my 1/72 Z39 destroyer. So far I have put 6 crew members onto the boat and I have 6 remaining. They are mainly for the front 105mm and rear 37mm guns, and more sitting (for the seats on the wintergarden). My periscope has a very simple working method. A balsawood cylinder at the bottom of the periscope. Sub dives and the periscope comes up. Sub surfaces and the periscope goes down.

push tug.. by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Having put together a couple of "kit's" over the years, normally with fiberglass hull, I decided after having a electrical failure while on the local pond that I could do with something to retrieve a stricken boat, but with what and how, well after posing the question of what others do I decided to have a look about and found some idea's for a push tug, it seemed like the ideal thing and was something like I was looking for, I didn't purchase a kit, instead decided to build it myself... After making the hull according to the plan's, I looked at it and thought... na, that won't work. the plan's gave the hull a half moon shape, I found that it didn't balance well and needed a fair bit of weight due to the displacement, so I cut the bottom of and now is a flat bottom vassal, this sat better and stable in water.. I intend to run it on a 12v sla battery and two Mtroniks 600 motors... the deck and cabin has copied the general shape but a few changes to add features and suit the design that pop's into my head as I go... its coming along well I think... all materials are mostly odd's and end's, bit's I find and mixed wood except the deck's which I intend to varnish with white sides..

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Damn good service👍 Much like Conrad, is often worth paying their price to get things very quick and free delivery 😊 Can't say it's too hot here, temp has dropped 10°C to about 18 and torrential rain all day so far 🤔 Tomorrow back up to about 28-30°C apparently 😎 Maybe I can spray my two hulls then. Just made a new keel for the cutter, the wood behaved itself where the silver steel didn't. Now about to pin and epoxy it on. Then make the rudder skeg and think about fitting the rudder stock. Now then, where did I put me camera .... All the best, Doug 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Evening Mike, The trick with the milling machine wouldn't work as the shaft was a few cm too long to get it in the upper chuck! Hmm How much wood could an upper chuck chuck if a ......😁) Got curious so I checked the OD of various 3mm screws; all around 2.87mm, so thought I'd turn the shaft down to that. Still no go 😡 Just no purchase to get the thing started. Guess the die is crap, only worked once and that's it! Now looking for a better die set NOT SOLID. Annoying cos the set I bought claims to be a 'cutting' set, not just cleaning. Worked fine with the 4mm thread on the new shaft for my Sea Scout, weird! Ho hum! Was just considering sweating the hub on by heating the thread reducer I made and freezing the shaft in ice water plus salt! Bang the reducer on and let cool. What do you reckon?? Will also look up the die holder. Thanks for that 👍 Yours, EXASPERATED! Pesky mechanicals 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎