... 😊 lol .. No pressure then ! .. lol 😊 I,m afraid this may not be a quick build, because it is an "infill" build.. Always try to have two models on the go, as sometimes waiting for glue or worse still, the paint to dry that's a lot of wood cutting time wasted.. Regards Muddy
Hi Kipper. Thanks for the link, I had already looked at the site and unfortunately could not visit on the 27th May for their regular lakeside meeting to make contact with club members. However I had previously paid a visit to the lake on Sunday 21st May expecting to see a few boats on the lake on a what was a gloriously sunny afternoon and found not a single boat but plenty of wildfowl and the lake clogged with weed and leaves. It's a nice big stretch of water with plenty of landing stages around the shoreline and on the wooden bridge that separates the pleasure boating lake from the model boating lake but the amount of weed and detritus would make me wary of making a maiden voyage there. By contrast, I visited the lake at Verulam Park St Albans a week earlier and, although not as big, had little or no weed, but a few alarmingly large branches were being thrown into the water by dog walkers who were encouraging their pets to retrieve them, but were ultimately abandoned. Sadly no boats were being sailed there at the time so I could not make any inquiries with their owners. The first 3 pictures are Stanborough and the last 3 are St Albans. I think I know which I prefer but I would still like to have the view of others who use these lakes regularly. All responses welcome....please ! Thanks. Rob.
[Score: 9/10] 33"/2300g SHERSCHEN PT 209 Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 35mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 600 Turbo (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DSYS 36 A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Russian submarine fighter deployed on the Baltic. Ship full of balsa construction, plywood skeleton. 2 pcs engine series 600, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3300mA. Super driving characteristics, good maneuverability and stability.
[Score: 8/10] Capable of 6mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 777 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electronize ESC - Comments: Tarpon, Built from Model Boat Plans, Plywood Keel with Obechie planks 6 x 3 mm, upperworks/cabin balsa frame and .8mm plywood sides. All decks are planked, approx 6mm x 3mm a white wood, with .5mm Mahogony "Cauking".. Open planks and wood were varnished , paint is Wilko Enamel spray Gloss with spray undercoat. Happy sailing. Muddy....
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.
All getting involved now! I suspect it looks worse in the pictures because the prop thrust will definitely pass over the rudder although perhaps not ideally. And I don't have a cardan shaft, just a uj because as I said, simple appealled for a part time hobby as this is to me. My aim was to see if I could form the wooden hull like my Dad did on the fireboat cos I always admired the shape but of course I would like to finish the job eventually 😀
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay. https://www.modelylodi.cz/Laky-a-plnice-c11_86_2.htm😉
After a long pause I am as far as propshaft, motor and rudder installation. I need a servo next but spent all my pocket money climbing a mountain in Wales this month. It was good but wet. The motor lives on the usual alloy bracket, screwed to two wooden plinths made from strip laminated with araldite. It's all standard stuff but making it this way allowed me to shim the height correctly, the strip being about 1.5mm thick. I'll post some pics if I can work out the Google drive thing but you will also see that the lower skins are on and after the servo installation I can think about the upper hull skins and then the superstructure. All good stuff😀.
Hello again.....yes it's me, just wondering whats best to use to take paint off your pride and joy that hasn't a lot of pride and no joy!! I think the hull and deck of my no pride & joy maybe GRP etc....def not wood so if anyone can help i'd appreciate it - thanks :-)
Hi Dave Your right there I intend to slope the sides ever so slightly with clay attached to the sides of the balsa wood as this will enable easier seperation of the mould Thanks for your continued interest in the project Looking forward to putting it all together eventually Cheers
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave
Hi shipmates, has anyone ever made a hydrofoil for a model boat, I have got a wooden fire /sea rescue boat single screw which to me seems about right for a hydrofoil system. So where do I start ????? any ideas ? Steve.
Hi Don't know of a film but ... "Dog Boats at War: Royal Navy D Class MTBs and MGBs 1939-1945 By: Leonard C. Reynolds (author) Paperback ISBN13: 9780752450452" Built of plywood and measuring 115 feet long, powered by four supercharged petrol engines and armed to the teeth with heavy weapons, the 'D' Class Motor Gun Boats (MGBs) and Motor Torpedo Boats (MTBs) were better known as Dog Boats and played havoc with enemy shipping in home and foreign waters. During three years of war they engaged the enemy on more than 350 occasions, sinking and damaging many ships. "Dog Boats at War" is the authoritative account of operations by the Royal Navy's 'D' Class MGBs and MTBs in the Second World War in Home, Mediterranean and Norwegian waters. As well as drawing on official records - both British and German - the author has contacted several hundred Dog Boat veterans whose eyewitness accounts add drama to the unfolding story. £17 at Smiths 😉 cheers Doug 😎