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Model Boats Website Team
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[Score: 9/10] 22"/800g DIVA Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 600 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through TURNIGY (20Amps) ESC - Comments: Celo wooden cabin of RC model yachts from 60. . Function controlled by the engine and rudder. The kit is not. The hull of the several belts oplaňkováním plating.1:25 scale
Wooden structure model fishing boats. Was done on his knee at home in the kitchen from the remnants of plywood, balsa etc. Motor 1 pc 600 with water cooling, 1pc battery NiCd 3000 mA. Excellent handling characteristics. Even though it was not good at handling the water looks great.
Wooden structure submarine chasers of 70 years in service with Russia and East Germany. Cover with balsa and smeared with epoxy varnish. The model is equipped with two engines of 600 pcs, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3000 mA
ive a large collection of model boats (72) some complete some not complete , ranging from wooden to fibreglass the collection incs lots of new and used hulls , serious amounts of plans , new and old books , model boat mags , a lot of parts - props motors , radio controls , over 20 yachet sails with masts too much to mention and photograph if anyone is interested in this full collection or making a serious dent in the collection , contact me on phone 07941140146👍
Saint Marie is professionals built wooden model My challenge is to re-rig her. She must have been hit by a tsunami! - the rigging is in a terrible state. Though, her beautifully stitched four sails are, with exception of a small red stain on the main- are like the fittings, in very good nick. I have only ever restored a glider and model Thames barge so by comparison this has become the challenge of a lifetime. Members please give me some tips. Happy Christmas and a model New Year! Fingers crossed, Ian
Hi Onetenor Thank you for your advice, It is well taken. I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic. Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but, I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course. My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin. Ed
Before you start modeling a ship, ensure your kit has all the parts such as mold lines, pin holes, warpage, flash and swirl marks, etc. If there are several parts, which are missing, then contact with your manufacturer to provide you with the required parts so that you can accomplish your job. With every wood ship kit you buy, you will get a detailed set of diagrams, as well as instructions, which will help you complete the job successfully. At Ages of Sail, we carry a full line of Scale Wooden Ship Model Kits, Fittings, Books, Tools, and Supplies. We have Card Model kits from Shipyard of Poland, Denix Metal Cannons, Domus Architectural Kits, Medieval Cannons and Weapons, Miniature Figures from Amati, and much, much more. http://www.agesofsail.com/
[Score: 8/10] 36"/4100g 36 Rater model yacht Powered by NiMH (6v) Batteries - Comments: Purchased at Henly on Thames wooden boat show in May 2016 again by my brother in law who likes to see me recycle old model boats. Thin GRP hull with stess fractures one mast and one thick canvas sail. Hull was coated with polyester resin and model aircraft wing cloth rubbed down and recoated with another application of resin rubbed down and painted with three coats Yellow machinery enamel after having been redecked with 1/16" ply fitted out with four turn sail winch and standard Futaba servo for rudder via flexible cable connection. As there are no restrictions on sail sizes and the original mast was in three sections at 196cm I replaced the centre 40 cm shorter in effect creating a no2 or B rig from Mylar type plastic sheet. Jib and Main made from four panels each and using a Claudio Gadget to create a curve in each sail. Having sailed on very calm day several issues presented themselves which need to be addressed in the sail department. Not too many photo's of this type about but I have found one on MYA website which I shall use to to make amendments i.e. new sails and gooseneck.
I am enjoying your build and I am especially looking forward to seeing how you will fit the bow sections. I am in the process of painting my 34 inch fireboat. She is the first wooden model that I have built and I have thoroughly enjoyed the process.
Hi Kimtho, I checked the ebay site insertion regarding the issues you seek he has sold quite a few I have given you below the available issues in his stock now 77,78,79,80,81,83,84,85,86, & 89 should you wish to purchase these I would suggest contacting him and see if you can get a bulk deal good luck felix
Hi Kimtho, There is currently an insertion on eBay for the issues you are seeking 76-100 I just placed into eBay search engine model kits of the Titanic and on the second page it came up with the very issues you seek, if you require any further information please let me know felix
I have seen photos only of this model it looks really fantastic, unfortunately I can not remember which website they were placed on. Why not place an add in some of the model boat magazines, or have a word with a good news agent who perhaps can give you a contact point for the suppliers of the kits who may be helpful. felix
Hi all, I am a new member to this forum. I am looking for Issues 76-100 for this particular model. I came across the first 75 issues in their original unopened packets at a garage sale recently. I would love to be able to complete the model. Any advice please? Happy to hear from anyone who has some back issues for sale? Or any advice as to where I might source these back issues. (I have already tried ebay ...) Cheers Kim
I've never used the glass cloth, but I do know epoxy, from models to full size wooden narrow boat cabins. I applied epoxy (WEST) to the new cabins I built with an old credit card. 2 coats. Then red oxide primer followed by 3 coats of enamel top coat gloss. By the time I sold the boat those cabins had gone through 3 winters and still the water ran off like a duck's back. I can't see how the glass can be safely or invisibly rubbed down with out seeing the overlaps in the finish. But I guess if you CAN rub it down invisibly it can't hurt, it just seems unecessary to me. Plus my work on a full sized boat kind of proves you don't need it. I have just epoxied the skin of my pre-War Marbehead yacht too, that'll be gently rubbed down and re-coated, then it'll be sprayed with enamel paint, using a touch-up gun and HMG enamel paint. I will not use acrylic for anything. On a new build, I have used cellulose sanding sealer to fill grain thoroughly (up to 10 coats, but they go on one after another it dries so quickly), followed by either self etch primer (because I have a load of it) and finally enamels. I do NOT mean Humbrols! The enamels I use are made by HMG and are intended for industrial/commercial vehicles. That's plenty good enough for me! I should also point out that I have 2 models which are now well over 50 years old and still bear their original enamel paint. No water ingress has ever occurred. Martin