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>> Home > Tags > wooden

wooden
wooden boat
wooden model
wooden
DIVA by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 22"/800g DIVA Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 600 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through TURNIGY (20Amps) ESC - Comments: Celo wooden cabin of RC model yachts from 60. . Function controlled by the engine and rudder. The kit is not. The hull of the several belts oplaňkováním plating.1:25 scale

HYDROGRAF by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Wooden structure model fishing boats. Was done on his knee at home in the kitchen from the remnants of plywood, balsa etc. Motor 1 pc 600 with water cooling, 1pc battery NiCd 3000 mA. Excellent handling characteristics. Even though it was not good at handling the water looks great.

Thin Flat Timber by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Yep, Ikea wooden blinds are a good source of Lime wood, unfortunately they have stopped making that sort, so it is looking in skip times. Cut into strips and the coating sanded off are excellent for plank on frame boats, also good for deck planking and will take a stain. Alan

SHERSCHEN P206 by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Wooden structure submarine chasers of 70 years in service with Russia and East Germany. Cover with balsa and smeared with epoxy varnish. The model is equipped with two engines of 600 pcs, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3000 mA

Thin Flat Timber by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.

Fiberglassing by chugalone100 Apprentice   Posted: 8 days ago
Any suggestions in how to seal a wooden tug hull with fiberglass.

Ariel by Patto Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 40" Ariel - Comments: My yacht is about 30 years old is a wooden hull of planked construction . It is radio controlled steering only and needs a fair breeze to sale it as it has heavy lead keel.

Invictus build by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Most of my model are too big for a domestic test tank so I build a simple trough in one corner of a sunken patio with plastic sheeting over a wooden frame. Only needs a small volume of water to float the vessel and ballast to waterline. Far less grief involved! Dave

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Guys. Progress with my Cygnus Crabber is slow but positive. I am using the old "measure twice cut once" approach to every aspect of the build and picking as many brains and taking valuable advice from people, such as your good selves, as I can ! This is one such occasion. I am fast approaching the task of soldering, which I have never done before. I am making all the steelwork of the boat, i.e. stanchions, shooting bar, 'A' frame and railings out of brass tube and rod. I have made up a wooden jig to pattern the railings and 'A' frame. I have bought enough brass to afford me some extra for "dummy runs". Now when it come to the actual soldering I see on the market is some solder paste (solder and flux mixed) called "Plumbers Mate", I've watched a couple of videos using this product and it seems as though it would suit a novice like me. The thickest rod I am using is 2mm. Do you think this product suitable and do you have any other views please ? Yours studiously !😉

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave

Job Lot of Model boats , parts , plans , books everything by cpc100 Apprentice   Posted: 3 months ago
ive a large collection of model boats (72) some complete some not complete , ranging from wooden to fibreglass the collection incs lots of new and used hulls , serious amounts of plans , new and old books , model boat mags , a lot of parts - props motors , radio controls , over 20 yachet sails with masts too much to mention and photograph if anyone is interested in this full collection or making a serious dent in the collection , contact me on phone 07941140146👍

The spray booth. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
After considering all the H&S aspects and conducting my own risk assessment (seriously !) and writing a method statement 😉 I am building myself a spray booth. The base for the spray booth is a steel framed folding trestle table that I already had in the workshop and is of ideal dimensions for the job. The framework for the booth is regular 25mm x 38mm softwood from my local DIY store. No elaborate joints here at all, just a few screws and plastic corner blocks and a few bracing fillets to keep the frames square and rigid. The idea is that I will be able to remove/discard the cardboard panels from the top and sides to de-construct it and pack it away until it's required again. The cardboard is just fixed to the frame with a heavy duty staple gun. An MDF panel with a suitable sized hole was made to hold the fan unit in the 'roof' and the flexible ducting routed to the workshop (garage) door (wooden) and connected to an exhaust vent mounted through the door. The fan unit is a brushless bathroom ventilator wired to a simple switch on the side of the frame, it can move more than sufficient air volume quite safely in the presence of propellants and solvents from the aerosols. I also fitted a 1metre LED strip-light to the same circuit to illuminate the interior. The finishing touch is an old shower curtain with a weighted hem that I had lying about to form the 'fourth wall'. It's suspended so that there's a 50mm air gap at the bottom for the air flow path. I bought a 3M 4521 Maintenance-Free Organic Vapour/Particulate Respirator for about £18 from Screwfix to wear whilst spraying. The mask filters are not replaceable so when I've finished all the painting it will be binned ! The mask is so exceptionally effective at filtering that I am able to stand at the booth and work INSIDE the booth with the curtain behind me to confine the vapours and dust and reduce the risk of dust etc. settling on the fresh paint. For those concerned for my health I can assure you that FOR ME this works perfectly safely and is very effective. So much so that there's no smell at all while spraying and I only get the slightest whiff of solvent smells in the workshop after removing the mask as all the nasty stuff is blasted out of the workshop from the enclosed booth. I expect some controversial opinions on this but in practice it is actually far safer than spraying paint in a confined area without any protection and ventilation at all, which is possibly what a lot of chaps (including me) have done or continue to do ! Now I can get some painting done...

Help identify by classicdining Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
Saint Marie is professionals built wooden model My challenge is to re-rig her. She must have been hit by a tsunami! - the rigging is in a terrible state. Though, her beautifully stitched four sails are, with exception of a small red stain on the main- are like the fittings, in very good nick. I have only ever restored a glider and model Thames barge so by comparison this has become the challenge of a lifetime. Members please give me some tips. Happy Christmas and a model New Year! Fingers crossed, Ian

Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8" ply by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Onetenor Thank you for your advice, It is well taken. I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic. Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but, I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course. My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin. Ed

Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8" ply by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
There are various ways to do this but the simplest way is to use thinned dope or paint/varnish.Giving 3 or 4 coats This thinned paint etc soaks into the timber not just sitting on top and also seeps into the nooks and crannies. Epoxy or other resins can also be used, again well thinned so it soaks in .Be fairly liberal with it and tilt and twist the hull in all directions so the paint runs into all the nooks and crannies. Good luck with it John