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>> Home > Tags > wooden

wooden
wooden boat
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PS Iona - ballast by Harvey Kitten Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Well I said in blog 1 this was a mixed media ship... I forgot to mention the concrete. The bathtub test showed that the ship sailed ON the water rather than in it, so some serious ballast weight needed to be added. As I don't have any spare lead, and buying the amount needed would be expensive, I discovered an old bag of cement in the shed. Excellent! I roughly calculated how much to use to infill the base of the tug - about 1 inch depth distributed bows to stern, up to the level of the frames, so I could fit a wooden floor to mount the motors / electronics onto. Luckily this came out about right, and the paddles would sit in the water correctly🤓

Good buy from Lidl by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Managed to get one of these sanders from Lidl on Sunday, all for less than £30😊 Thanks for the info Robbob, totally agree that it is a good buy for the money, 👍just got to get a wooden boat to try it out. cheers Peter

Being Sociable. by GaryLC Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hello to Rick and Peejay, Rick this bit is for you, Good to hear you have a steam engine fitted, and are contemplating a bench run to see how long it will run on a boiler full of water. It will bench run longer than on the water as the engine has no loading, I would recommend you fit a gas cut off valve to be on the safe side. I once years ago ran out of water and had to watch the boiler turn its wooden lagging to charcoal. No major damage was done but it did smell a bit for some time. Peejay may I suggest that you Google the likes of Microcosm and other Chinese manufacturers of model steam engines, there is an awful lot out there you will be surprised, try for a twin double acting side valve as they are very efficient, and will run on only 20 - 30 PSI, plus a 1/2" bore twin cylinder will easily power a one metre length hull. Regards to you both, Gary.

DMI 'Pirat" by Smaragd Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 22"/1000g DMI 'Pirat" - Comments: Classic modell, in the 70's sold under the name DMI pirat. a full wooden sailboat without RC controls. the keel was extended to improve stability. In the 90's the wooden strips from the hull were so dried out, that I had to fill it complete with epoxy and sprayed the uniform 'baby blue'color. After a long period in the attic , it saw daylight again and the sails needed to be replaced. Now it is a static model with sailing capacities.

Carina by Smaragd Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
here is my 2nd Graupner Carina ( after the 1st one I just wanted to built another one and Ebay supplied - again- a 'barely started' set. Taking apart the glued wooden parts was a bit of a challenge. However, the previous owner used cheap glue and all the parts could be dismounted without any damage. (will post more pictures of the rebuilt )

Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender by Boat660 Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Rob, I briefly had a conversation with you last weekend at AP. This is a general question on the build blog, (by the way your build and finish is exceptional) that I have read several time to familiarise myself on the build detail and would welcome your advise. I'm itching to purchase the fire tender. I'm a confident model builder, however I have never built a wooden boat before, and note your comments on the gunwhale stringer, and skins which is holding me back from the purchase.🤔 Russell

Sea Queen by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Roger.com, I am not so sure about being less detail on a Norfolk Broads Cruiser. I have a small 21ft fibre glass hulled boat in Potter Heigham on the Broads. But when you see the older wooden Broads Cruisers they have lots of detail especially the ones that get cared for as they should being wooden built. Some of them are so beautiful and well varnished polished brass, Chrome fittings and well groomed. If I could afford a wooden cruiser and be able to keep her in the fashion she should be kept then I would. But if I win the lottery then I will have one. Even the old wooden sailing yacht's are kept in wonderful condition and lots of detail brass etc.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes also, I would love to see pictures. Very interested . I even went as far as fitting small wooden wedges on the rear of the under side corners of the hull. that was all trial and error from other modelers suggestions on the pond side. Prop swaps and all sorts.

Older Billings Models by Ray Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a Zwart Zee tug kit wooden, complete with all boxed brass fitings ,untouched,got it off an old workmate for a tenner years ago when he gave up modeling.its sat in the loft for years as life and other projects took priority.

Fast Patrol Boat by jelley_baby Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi BOATSHED, The wooden block is screwed and araldited ti the keel and supports an Aluminium bracket designed for holding a Brushless motor in an Aeroplane, use what’s available I always say. The coupling is Silicon tube fitted to brass universal coupling fittings and because the way brushless run is very quiet compared to a normal Unversal Joint assembly. Will post it running shortly. Thanks for you interest. Graham

Fast Patrol Boat by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
How does the coupling work, as it looks to be a flexi coupling. There also looks like you have a wooden support under the motor? With the torque on brushless motors will it not wave about? I look forward to seeing her on the water, hope you do a bit of video of her.

Cabin detail part 4 Steering wheel by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The steering wheel is a simple 3-spoke design; first, I machined a ring and a centre boss in brass. I then made a wooden jig to hold the parts in the correct position whilst soldering, this consisted of a turned block with a recess to locate the O/D, and the taper towards the centre hole to give a “dish effect” that locates the centre boss. This just leaves the three arms to machine; these are cut using a slitting saw to cut a 3mm wide strip from a piece of 1.5 mm brass plate. These are the cut to length ready for soft soldering and then the parts are all cleaned and placed in the jig, ideally a minimum of solder is used to minimise cleaning afterwards. The finishing/fettling I find is always easier if you use a sharp craft knife to slice any excess solder away as it doesn’t easily mark the brass in the same way you might using Swiss files, finally finish with 600 and 1000 w&d before priming ready for topcoat of black gloss. The first wheel I decided was too small so the pics are of that construction; the final larger wheel is in the last 3 pictures

Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel. The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape. Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Brianaro, many thanks for that. i am about to go and check that out. As well as my old 70's wooden Precedent Huntsman, I also have an MFA Spearfish still in the box not touched yet. I had one back in the 80's with an Irvine 61 in it and it was a great fun boat. I did plan to do the same again with it but with the constant banning of using IC engines on the ponds around area's in the UK I suppose it will end up brushless. I know they are if not faster then IC now but the cost battery wise, now being retired the funds aren't as easily found now. The sad part is I still have 2 new SC 91's, 1 new SC 61 and a Irvine 120 all still new, never been run. I think there might also be an Irvine 61 that has no box. As well as a Zenoah 26c all pimped up in purple only run in ready to be put in a boat. Shed full of both engines and boats, some boats still new in the boxes still waiting to be built. Hopefully I will get to build them before I pop me clogs.

Older Billings Models by Tica Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
That is a BB Samson II, using the same ABS hull as Sea Star and Polar and as you state from the late 80's- beginning of the 90's. DMI and BB were competitors in the 60-80's and the wooden model names are often mixed up, between them. This at least in Denmark.