Maybe black pack-ice 😡😉 Any penguins about at the time 😁 Anyway glad you got her back more or less in one DRY piece! Re 'as original, I'm not an aficionado of these boats but weren't they all twin screw? Cos Neil's boat with only one is not 'true' anyway so the fillet may actually make it look better than a superfluous bracket would. Good bit of brainstorming tonight 👍 hope it helped Neil and other newbies. Bedtime here now as well, we're an hour ahead of you lot😉 Sooo 'up the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire', nite all, yaaaawn 😎 PS like the pinning idea, will use it on my destroyer 👍
Ramura Hull - wooden boat from 1960's use to have an Ohlsson and rice engine but now runs Kawasaki 26cc Flymo engine. New homemade carb and also tried running on glow fuel and a glow plug, instead of petrol and the electronic ignition. Not used any more IC engine's banned at our POOL.😱
[Score: 10/10] 18" Lady valeria Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor Geared to a Como drill motor (piled) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries Controlled Through Midway models old thing (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Lovely carvel construction wooden boat lasts for ever on a single lead acid battery. Highly detailed!!
If I were you I'd leave them alone until you know how the boat behaves. Most important is to shift the prop shaft forward until the prop is about half an inch forward of the water intake. i wouldn't worry about the intake pipe, not worth the effort. If you want to move the rudder stock you'll have to move it forward or back a bit to ensure the drill for the new hole doesn't constantly try to slide into the old one, whatever it's filled with! I would drill it out until you can epoxy glue a tight fitting wooden dowel into it. Doug
Wayne , Just noticed in RS components that they do a 1.75 mm tropical wood 3D printing filament ,wooden decking ? or a nice little cabin the world could be your oyster ,couldn't get the link on the last post to work but they are printing a house somewhere in Scandinavia ,Norway I think
Mornin' Dave, many thanks for the Titanic info. Some good tips 👍 Haven't decided yet whether to make brass T section frames or flat wooden ones! Daft thing with my destroyer is that the portholes were fitted in the original balsa hull. Later I covered it in glass fibre for extra knock resistance so would have to do it all over again😡 The portholes were ~5mm diameter brass into which I had to glue tiny plastic discs. How to go bonkers in stages 🤔 However, I now have a Fleetscale H class hull which has moulded in plating and portholes so I only need to drill them out and fit glazing from within 😊 The old ones I will save for the new superstructure. Lighting will be general for some compartments not individual. The old original ship I think I will leave 'as is' as a momento of my standard of 50 years ago😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Water jet cutting is beyond my means but I have been toying with the idea of buying a stencil cutter. The better ones cope with up to 1mm or so. Should be enough for glazing sheet!
I'm looking for a Marblehead yacht and swing rigs almost anything considered as prepared to restore, but not a wooden hull, fibre glass or carbon fibre. I seem to spend a good deal of my time breathing life into wooden hulls, but no more😱.
Hi Norm, Tell me about it!! 😭 I have Ark Royal (1939 version) and USS Enterprise (first nuclear super carrier) both 1:350, and there are 'bits' hanging off all over the place 😭 I also have HMS Hood and KM Bismarck also 1:350. I am slowly modifying them for radio control (Plastic Magic!) so one day I can re-enact the Battle of the Denmark Straight. Don't plan to blow up my Hood though 😉 In the nineties I had the pleasure of working on a Colossus Class Fleet carrier (ex HMS Vengeance) which ended up with the Brazilian Navy. Of course she had been updated and modified many times (I was there to modernise the comms) but I never saw any Corticene. Carriers may be capital ships but only the USN were stupid enough to give them wooden decks, which is why they lost so many to dive bombs and kamikaze planes. Whereas these bounced off the RN carriers armoured decks 😊 BTW; did you know that all the major carrier advancements still seen in modern carriers; closed bow, angled flight deck and automated landing systems were all invented by the British? 😊👍 Happy building, Doug 😎
I like the Precedent Huntsman very much and I built one from the kit many years ago. It was the wooden hull version and it was quite fast with an MFA 850 Torpedo motor running on 12 volts. I sold it in 2004 and now I wish I hadnt. However I bought a 34 inch fibreglass hull this year at the Ellesmere Port show and I wondered if Precedent are still manufacturing kits as I have no plans for the superstructure. Boaty😎
[Score: 8/10] 33" Patricia Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a KedaTR2837/18 KV830 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through EZRUN 18A (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1950,s. Scratch built. Hull based roughly on a Cris-Craft speed boat which lived in the field beside Jimmy Laird's house. Wooden built mostly 1/16 Obechi. First motor, geared Taycol with horseshoe magnet. Homebullt 27MHz galloping ghost steering only
Hi Chris Mine just has a large flat ply plate over the bottom of the hull with the rx rudder servo and battery fixed in place. I use velcro for the rx and made mounting blocks for the servo. An aircraft snake connects to the rudder. The battery is in a small wooden compartment. My ESC is just below the motor mount hanging loose. You do need to strengthen the motor mount - I used lots of wood inside to make it all less pliable - the plastic is not strong enough on its own. You need to build a plinth to attach the motor high enough to attach your prop. This need to be well braced to take the thrust from the prop. Mine moves slightly and if I were to make another I would make it stronger. Mine required two small sheets of lead up front to keep it on the water at speed. Please post details of your build Dave
Hello! What a beautiful sail boat! I see many hours in your endeavor. I'm planning to build a 1/16th scale circa 1933 America's Cup Whirlwind sailboat, using a fiberglass molded hull. I'm trying to find some old wooden window blinds, to saw cut into narrow strips for the decks. I'm going to build the cabins out of brass sheet. Have you ever used wooden window blinds for boat builds? Thank you?
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.