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>> Home > Tags > woodworking

working boats
working monitor
Day Two Springer by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 27 days ago
Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. If you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe

Internal wiring & bottom skins by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Rob, I'm really pleased to see construction detail, I suppose in preference to a finished boat, you may ask why? well looking at your pictures, the last two in particular they show the precision of your woodworking skills with a distinct absence of any filler, really nice. Looking at the first picture (top view) is there any reason why the battery and ECS can't go in front and behind the motor addressing the issue of short wiring runs (not that I have a clue about wiring and electronics) PS. however it looks like its too late as some wiring is already installed and by now the skins are probably on now Keep up the good work

Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 28 days ago

Mini lathe by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi y'all.I was thinking of getting one of these-- Is Raitool a good make. Seem to be. Has anyone got one Or similar? Can it be used for steel and screw cutting (with the right accessories of course)? All ideas welcome.

Gypsy Sloop Jr. by Popeyepapa Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. In 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in woodworking class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. It has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to radio control. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.

Clamps and such by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Alligator clamps, small woodworking clamps?

Richards 48" Swordsman by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Very neat 👍 But I thought all you woodworking aces were 'joggling' fans ?? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Shelduck by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Beooootiful! 👍👍 I'm jealous of your woodworking skills. Seems a shame to cover all that lovely woodwork with paint! 🤔 Tidiest planking I've seen for a long time. Compliments 😊 I guess these last posts are what is called a 'prequel' ??? 😉 Look forward to the video! 😎

Planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework 🤔 To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-) Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building 😉 Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white woodworking glue without problems. It gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows 😉 glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern). The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short 😭 Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience 😎 These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!? Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like. Cheers from Munich 😎

Fantastic Plastic by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
I'm more comfortable working with wood as I was taught woodworking skills at school back in the dark and distant, but plastic certainly has it's merits as it's versatile and far more malleable, and forgiving, as I have discovered during my build, even brass work is getting easier for me 😁. Rob

Nobby by nobby Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
Morecambe Bay Prawner (Nobby) Scratch built from plans in a woodworking mag 30+ years ago. Just completed Thames Barge (Isla May)

Caldercraft Professional Glue by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Ed, Happy new year, have a look in your local builders merchant or walmart type place, thick cyno is common to a lot of sellers, would save you postage to, same as pva, buy the stuff from a woodworking store Regards Mark

King-Fisher changes made by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Planning to use my belt sander for chines to match the bulkheads as shown in the plan. I do other woodworking such as this toy barn, which I just finished for my grandson's birthday next week.

Which paint by CaptLarry Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
Howdy! Minwax makes a product called "Prestain" for woodworking. It also works good as a primer.

First Boat--First Project -- Sea Queen Restoration by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 years ago
That windows looks really good. I'm not surprised there are inconsistencies, building model in the 1960's was popular but the instructions were basic and many builders lacked the woodworking skills. In spite of that there were many well constructed models and the Aerokits range were very good for the novice builder and sailed beautifully. You seem to be moving quite well with the renovation and will soon have a nice clean and solid hull. Dave