When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. In 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in woodworking class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. It has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to radio control. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.
Beooootiful! 👍👍 I'm jealous of your woodworking skills. Seems a shame to cover all that lovely woodwork with paint! 🤔 Tidiest planking I've seen for a long time. Compliments 😊 I guess these last posts are what is called a 'prequel' ??? 😉 Look forward to the video! 😎
PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework 🤔 To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-) Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building 😉 Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white woodworking glue without problems. It gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows 😉 glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern). The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short 😭 Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience 😎 These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!? Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like. Cheers from Munich 😎
I'm more comfortable working with wood as I was taught woodworking skills at school back in the dark and distant, but plastic certainly has it's merits as it's versatile and far more malleable, and forgiving, as I have discovered during my build, even brass work is getting easier for me 😁. Rob
Hi Ed, Happy new year, have a look in your local builders merchant or walmart type place, thick cyno is common to a lot of sellers, would save you postage to, same as pva, buy the stuff from a woodworking store Regards Mark
That windows looks really good. I'm not surprised there are inconsistencies, building model in the 1960's was popular but the instructions were basic and many builders lacked the woodworking skills. In spite of that there were many well constructed models and the Aerokits range were very good for the novice builder and sailed beautifully. You seem to be moving quite well with the renovation and will soon have a nice clean and solid hull. Dave
OK finally got going for real at start of Feb. In Jan all I did was reinforce some of the old joints on the hull that looked a bit dry and dubious, used Araldite resin AW106, not the lightest way of doing It but It will work OK and I could run It up under the deck/hull joints as well as the bits I could reach. I didn't fancy taking the deck off, what with my woodworking skills...The motor mount Is more my area and this was quickly folded up and drilled from .071" aluminium alloy, slotted holes allow a good alignment to the shaft. The rudder was always a problem, a very short tube (I'm sure there Is a tech name for It) allowed water to get In with the boat at speed so I changed that for a longer one and new rudder, which Is far too big at the moment I suspect but I will wait and see before I cut It down. The servo Is mounted In the aft bay on a galvanised steel bracket, there should be enough room for a link and again I slotted the holes to help set up the correct ratio. I am currently doing a bit of framing to sit the new aft hatch and electronics tray on, the latter Is going just aft of the motor In what might be called the 2nd to last bay (are the divided areas In a boat called bays???). The learning point Is the speed controller, I bought two 7.2v batteries thinking to run at either 7.2 or 14.4 depending on how I found the performance/my RC skill (none) ratio. Then I bought a 12v ESC... 😯 I don't know, can I push my luck and see If It will take 2.4v extra without setting things alight or do I buy a new ESC or 2 6v batteries?
Looking good so far Mark, What glue are you using to set all of this together? I'd love to have a go at a Destroyer like this, but dont think my woodworking skills are good enough yet to cope with one.