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>> Home > Tags > yacht

yacht
36 rater model yacht
model yacht
r6m yacht
rc yachts
robbie estelle yacht
yacht
SABRINA by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27"/2300g SABRINA Capable of 13mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 25mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 600 Turbo (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DSYS 32A (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Semi-yacht French yachts from 70 years. Assembled 2pcs 600 series motors , 2 NiCd 3000 mA batteries. Construction all made of laminate. Excellent handling and great stability when riding. With water cooling.

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. It is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber decking, built-in auxiliary motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the decking down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 40"/4000g Koh-i-Noor Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Geared to a Robbe (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitec Gold (10Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. It was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. It came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay. https://www.modelylodi.cz/Laky-a-plnice-c11_86_2.htm😉

MarbleHead by ChrisPSR Recruit   Posted: 8 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 50"/4900g MarbleHead Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Old South American Class of Model Racing yacht now with International status. Very good looking Broad Beamed Marblehead carrying all three swing rig sails A,B,C, and raced in NW., Britain.

Phantom by ChrisPSR Recruit   Posted: 8 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 39"/3400g Phantom Capable of 1mph and a runtime of 120mins Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: AMYA type One Meter racing yacht raced in NW., Britain.

SARNIA by lesliebreame Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
In contrast to all that amazing power stuff below here is a very tranquil and sedate picture of my A class yacht in light breeze at Ilfracombe pond recently. Les Breame

"Vanity" leaves the building board by Westquay Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
This one is (for you furriners) 80mm long by 50 wide. This is the tiddler between the roundhouse/tiller area and the companion aft. Then there's a bigger one forward of the companion and then a forward companion forward of the mast. Mast bitts, Samson posts for the bowsprit and prism bricks in the deck. Fortunately Vanity's deck was laid a la workboat, all planks parallel unlike most yachts. I shall pay for that simplicity when I deck Bloodhound. That has swept decks with mitred toeboards round every item of deck furniture, joggled into a King plank fore and aft and the main companion is shell topped, requiring steamed, tapered planks all the way across, but I tend to like the fiddly bits. The finish on that is cellulose sanding sealer. When the other light is done I'll varnish it all very thinly. Cheers, Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Agree with your generally used methods for varnishing, but these narrow vertical planks with all their joints will never go away. They will crack if it gets hot they will crack when it's cold and damp. Ask me how I know! They all need to be bridged by a single surface. I will be using J-Cloth and epoxy on my yacht as J-Cloth is very strong and cheap as chips. The only other method is to cover the vertical planks with a single horizontal layer of veneer, but that might be difficult to cover if any compound curves have crept in at the bow due to sanding of blocks or whatever. But somehow those joints have to be covered. Filling won't work. Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi John, Suggest you sand as this will flatten the planking, no doubt each plank has curved slightly as the wood had dried out. Hoover out all the dust from the cracks and fill with a mahogany filler and re-flatten. The inside of the hull will also need varnishing to stop the wood drying out again. Would not advise wetting the planking to raise the grain as is normal practice as this might swell the wood and loose the filler. First use a good quality polyurathene varnish, brushed on but avoid runs, lightly sand to give a key before recoating. At this stage do not worry about the brush strokes showing. After at least 8 coats use wet and dry paper to sand the surface flat. Now apply a yacht varnish that does not dry so quickly and brush strokes will on the whole disappear. I suggest at least 3 coats to finish lightly wet and dry between coats. The more coats you give the deeper the shine. Use a good quality brush, a cheap brush drops hairs and does not give a smooth finish. If you look at my harbour and look at 'River Dance' you will see the finish this method can achieve. Good luck and hopes this helps. Vic

Scale Sailing Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Only one thunker left to do and then it's a case of getting the very back end sorted. The lines I used from an American book on yachting history seemed fine, but were awry at the last couple of sections, although somehow these didn't show, so fortunately one bulkhead was knocked out and planks have been adjusted ending in just eyework to get the shapely hull back to a suitable elegant and very slim stern. We'll get there. Drilling down to do the rudder stock will be a major job as it's the entire depth of the rear end of the boat! But nothing brass tube, epoxy and Milliput can't repair, build up, be worked into shape! Cheers, Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Yep. see your problem. You don't want to sand it through 😡 With paint strippers, and I've used some pretty aggressive ones - like when I stripped about 20 coats of ancient oil paints off the beautiful pine doors in my old cottage in Sandhurst many moons ago, I'm always a bit concerned with what remains in the wood. Therefore I would favour careful sanding with as fine a grit that will do the job before Christmas! Then apply a quality wood sealer, Ronseal was good in those days! Damp the wood to bring up fibres and hand sand 'em flat with 'flour paper', if that is still known!? It's so fine your fingers barely notice it, but the fibres do 👍 NOT Wet&Dry, it will discolour the wood. After that apply a UV resistant yacht grade varnish of your choice. I'm sure Martin can recommend something and correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I learned from my Granddad, who was a master carpenter. Amongst many other wonderful things he made church furniture. Wow! now Queen on the radio - 'The Show Must Go On'. 😊

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Doug, I agree it would be nice to keep the wood finish if I can find a solution; it is currently covered with Yacht varnish. I am worried if I rub it down and re apply Yacht varnish I will end up with the same problem and as the wood is quiet thin there is a limit to the number of times I could do that. John.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Your choice, but if the wood is still good would be a shame to hide it 🤔 I agree though varnishing is more work, applying and maintaining. For the deck of my Sea Scout I bought what is termed 'Yacht Varnish'! But I'm sure martin can be more specific. Not a great problem on my grey funnel fleet, except some of the larger ones like Graf Spee and Belfast. I prpose to simply seal them with the silk matt clear varnish from Revell. (Sorry but I live in Germany!) Oh great 'Sultans of Swing' on the radio 😊 Hard luck neighbours 😉

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hmm! Suggests that the wood has swollen then shrunk at some stage, or dried right out and shrunk! Whatever. This sounds like one for our resident yacht expert Martin 'Westquay'! 👍 Personally after literally headaches in the past using paint stripper I would prefer the sander, with dust extractor! I'm sure Martin can recommend a suitable 'flexible' varnish. Good luck