I'd confirm what Ron says above. A slight warp, like yours, is paradoxically harder to shift than a biggy. I had a terrible warp in an old hull, but after making diagonal strutting and regluing the skins to a point a bit MORE than the warp in reverse, it sprung back to a perfect shape, but that roof is slight and so steam is the way. You can also use hat water or even just water, but, as Ron says, you'll need to twist it in the opposite direction and keep it there. A cheap and cheerful wooden frame is the answer, then either steam or dunk the whole lot in your garden (or somebody else's ) water butt. That's how I put the sheer AND deck camber on the 1.6mm decks of my yacht model. Worked a treat. left them to soak for half an hour and then dry on a hot sunny day, naturally. I now have a flat ply deck which has the curve of the sheer AND the athwartships camber all at once. I also notice that the framework under the roof sheet isn't complete. If you were to complete that while holding the roof in an unwarped position, glue up and let it set hard you could also find it will straighten up. Failing all this, making a brand new one from a bit of 1.5mm ply and some 3mm for a frame will be just as quick. Ah, it's our pirate friend. Hello Bryan. Hadn't twigged it was your Seaplane Tender! It deserves repair rather than replacement, I reckon. Cheers, Martin
[Score: 10/10] 39"/4600g Evie Rose Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: The Soling Class is the largest class affiliated with the American Model Yachting Association (AMYA). It is a one-design class. My boat is reputed to be the last one sold in the UK. The first pic is how it came to me, the second pic was taken after a makeover.
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for “a few minutes” but she knew my “few minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. It was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete
Doug, I just ordered that one off ebay. Odd how the exactly similar looking one I'd seen sad it didn't do remaining capacity of NiMhs. Never mind. So I now have a multi meter and a battery checker. No need for ESC worries as this is in a yacht, no ESC required. Bummer about your PT boat, but it seems to be what ESCs do, from what I've read. I found 2 the other day and I've no idea where they came from! Both the same with a bit of ally section as a heat getter ridder (what are they called?). But I don't need anything for motor boats just yet, although my Darby One Design will be needing it all soon as will the Crash Tender. But that's another day, another question. Cheers, Martin
Hi folks, I have just received the 5 cell battery pack for my yacht R/C gear, but it come with no words and music, so I don't know if it's charged or not and am worried about using it with RC gear in case being under charged is dangerous to the gear. I also have a brand new, never used imax B6 charger. Never used because I can't make head nor tail of the instructions. Can anyone help me with all this lecktrickery, please? Beyond 4 AAs in a wall wart I am completely green with battery charging. (BTW, why wall WART exactly?) Cheers, Martin
Only problem is the motor only switches on at full rudder left or right. So looking at it logically it should have two servos. But I may fit an esc so that I can fully control the motor at all times. The motor runs okay from 1.5 volts up to 6 volts. So now need to know what esc to look for. Cheers Colin.
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin
If you are talking about a closed loop system have a look at this YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cco5IQ0bZtU I have it on my yacht and it works very well, with no tangles any more. If you are not discussing a closed loop system, apologies for butting in. Chris
The servo is a twin linear, as you can see, one lug operates the rudder, whilst the other moves a lever that connects power from a battery to a small moter driving a prop. The lever is a simple on/off switch, no speed control or reverse, the motor is either on or off & is to get the yacht back if the wind drops.
Hi Doug, 36" even at 1/350 scale. Ye Gods, they really were big devils, eh? I always thought Hood was a very attractive ship. My loft was going to be my slot track home, then I went to stand up...DoH! not even crouch room, never mind head room, so storage it is. My Sea Urchin, Veron Veronica yacht, vintage Marblehead and Dorada are all up there. There is so much insulation up there that you can't see where the joists are when poking about. But I'm lucky to have a 6x6 foot brick shed with a Fort Knox type door, so models can also go up in the rafters of that too. Vanity on the side bench, currently. That's also where the bandsaw lives, the table saw and where silver soldering happens. Just out of interest, I've noticed there's a lot of photo-etch detail for 1/350 scale. Do you use that? I'd be interested to see your Hood when it's done. Cheers, Martin
a classic case of power gone to there heads I plan to send them my input if any other members feel strong enough about this please do the same I sail at Killingworth and the Q2 Ashington the wildlife don't bother when we sail either powerboats or yachts (last 2 pictures) This website urgently needs YOUR input - please let us know about any local news or event by contacting the Clerk to the Council email@example.com 01380 848737 Mr Bob Lunn Clerk to the Council: Urchfont Parish Council 14 Walnut Close, Urchfont, Devizes, Wiltshire, SN10 4RU