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>> Home > Tags > yacht

yacht
36 rater model yacht
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rc yachts
robbie estelle yacht
yacht
Emma C Berry Schooner by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Very nicely done l have built two Emma C Berry’s one free sail the other r/c with auxiliary electric motor the both sail nicely. Sterling also produced the Yacht America in the same scale size as the Emma C Berry. I have that as well set up with r/c and auxiliary power. I’ve raced them against each other about equal in speed. Both have removable keels.

weed problem on lake by david41 Apprentice   Posted: 3 days ago
apart from making model sailing yachts i do fly fishing and the weed problem on a few lakes that was mentioned can be reduced by putting a few hay bales in the lake and tied together and weighted to keep in place.the enzyme in the hay kills the weed it does not hurt or kill the wildlife this method has been in place a long time. Bewle water in kent. Lakedown trout fishery and more have used this method to help control the weed david41 😊

Blackpool and Fylde Model Boat Club by unknowndna Apprentice   Posted: 4 days ago
From April to October, weather permitting, you will find members enjoying scale boat and sailing sessions from 18:00 until sunset generally on Tuesday,Thursday and Sunday evenings weather permitting., (Parking is easy in the adjacent car park and free after 18:00). 24 Hr Parking is free on both sides of the adjacent road "Inner Promenade" Come along and have a chat and maybe have a go yourself. Membership for 2017 remains at £10 per annum and includes insurance ! The yachting members sail mainly Dragon-force, RC Lasers and Victoria Yachts also hosting National events attracting large turn outs to the scenic location. More recently the club have use of the newly re-furbished park building positioned next to the lake complete with high quality kitchen and other facilities. The building is already used to support sailing open events and regular opening times are now a real possibility with the support of Fylde Borough Council. The active scale model section attends shows often by invitation across the North West supporting charity fund raising events for the Life Boat service and others.

True Balou by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
This pond yacht was bought for me by my daughter in a pretty poor condition from a car boot sale, I decided to tidy it up and give it back to her as a model for her home. 'True Balou' was her much loved 'Staffie'.

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

SuzyQ by Dampfgerd Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I find in web not one photo of a model. She is nearly 1 meter long and become 2x brushless from me Speranza is a scale model of a fast motor yacht from Renato "Sonny " Levi

Another useful site for all 'Woodies' ;) by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Yep,I get Pinterest too, but they also mix in some of that cargo, too, which is a bit embarrassing if the Mrs. just walks in. On another boaty place people are saying the finish is too difficult! Epoxy and yacht varnish is all I ever used. Yes,if it's to be varnished it has to be well made, but so what? Does that mean all the tankers and lifeboats are badly made and covered in filler and paint? Anyway, thanks for your efforts, Doug. All encouragements to make woodies gratefully received. This is one I'm working on currently, when I can reach it off the top shelf! A Greavette Gent's racer, Double Time. Canadian graceful of Gravenhurst. Cheers, Martin

Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1 by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Good thinking. If it helps, The Fairey Owners Club www.faireyownersclub.co.uk has a lot of info and reference pictures on these boats and Charles Lawrence wrote Fairey in Context and Fifty Years of Fairey Raceboats czczcz@me.com (that is right). The original boats I’m told were painted with International Paints Oxford Blue 105 and White 905. I purchased these from a yacht chandlery.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
This is great stuff and really looking forward to implimenting some of this in my refurb. When I get to it I will need my hand holding as although I have read it twice, that does not mean I understand it all! Cheers. NPJ

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Main Sheet Modification: Yachts of this nature, would be fitted with a Traveller, which would be used to help shape the Main Sail. Also, the route of the main sheet, has a lot of twists and turns to get out of the cabin and up to the Boom. Plus, it has to pass through the tube and bend at its edge. The starting point of the control would be from the cockpit, especially if it is a Single Handed yacht. The ideal place for the traveller, would be on the roof of the cabin. To keep physical disruption to a minimum, I decided to use the original boom running gear pulleys. The termination of the MainSheet would now be at the traveller on the cabin. 1. The cleat was removed from the cockpit, and the eye bolt was replaced by an S hook, screwed to the cockpit deck( see picture 1). 2. A hole was drilled in the cockpit, adjacent to the cabin hatch, and in a direct line with the main Sheet control system. This will allow the main Sheet to pass directly from the cleat. Through the pulley assembly (withought going round the pulley), and straight aft to the cockpit. 3. A brass tube was glued into the hole, flush with the cockpit surface and extending inside, towards the mainsheet control system (see pictures 1 and 2). 4. The Traveller was formed from a length of brass rod, (approx 300mm long), formed to the same curve as the cabin roof. Slide the pulley onto the rod so that it runs freely. Make a 90 degree bend at each end, the length of the traveller apart. These 2 legs will pass down into the cabin roof, leaving about 10 mm for the pulley to run from end to end. Plus about 10mm at each end of the rod, which will be bent up against the inside of the roof and glued. (see picture 3 & 4). 5. Mark the cabin roof where the traveller is to be mounted. I chose to mount the traveller directly under the boom pulley. I have made a revised sketch which is taken from the original plans for guidance. See picture 5. Note: make sure the pulley is mounted on the rod between the two bends. 6. Drill the holes in the cabin, pass the ends of the rod through the holes. I put a 10mm piece of wood under the traveller rod, next to the hole. This allows you to hold it securely, while you bend the rod out, on the inside of the cabin. Apply plent of glue or resin to secure it. Do the same at the other end of the rod, and leave to set. With the cockpit removed, and the mainsheet control system in place, take the free end of the main sheet and pass it through the new hole in the cockpit. The cockpit can be secured by the 4 locking pulleys. Now pass the mainsheet through the S hook and up to the boom. Adjust the S hook to suitable angle. When the yacht is rigged, the mainsheet is passed up to the end of the boom pulley, along the boom, over the pulley and down to the traveller pulley. With the tx/ex active, pull the mainsheet right in, and the trim set right out (this allows for final tightening).Secure the mainsheet to the eye of the pulley, ( I use a figure of 8 knot ). Now adjust the trim on the joystick to pull the main Sail tight. Finally, run the servo right out, and back in a few times, to make sure it works properly. Move the boat round so the wind cones from a different angle, and watch the traveller as the sail is pulled in and out. Now you are ready to sail. May your wake be long and straight. Ray 😎

Robbe Smaragd by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Just for information. While I was browsing through the Yacht section of pictures, I came across another Smaragd yacht. The pictures were posted 2/3 yrs ago. I wonder if they are still active members, and have seen any of our chats and pages. It would be good to hear from them. Still looking through the many archived pictures. Best Regards Ray.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Now that is really neat. Will be putting that on the list of 'upgrades' for definite. NPJ.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the nozzles fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet nozzle is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the nozzle opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the nozzle. During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Great stuff Ray. Really good idea with sail storage. Wondered why the tubes were so large when I saw the first image.................. There surely are others about lets hear from them. Be back to you shortly. All the best. NPJ

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.