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>> Home > Members > nasraf
Registered
3rd Aug 2009
Last Online
30th Jul 2018
nasraf

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 713
Registered 3rd Aug 2009
Last Online 30th Jul 2018
City Avon
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 0
Forum Posts 71
Photos Posted 143
Likes Received 25
Likes Given 5
111 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
No Sailing Locations
Harbour
Empty Harbour
Commander
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
180 points away from Captain!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 25
Forum Post 2 142
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 0
Photos Response 3 9
Video Post 15 30
Video Response 3 0
Build Blog 20 20
Blog Post 5 85
Blog Response 3 54
Sailor 8 0
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 5
Received Likes 2 50
420 Total Points
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
It is a little while ago since this subject was raised but I came across it to day whilst passing my time looking through this continuingly interesting web site, but for what it is worth I will outline a bit I know about the RAF marine branch. I was one of the last National Service RAF enlisted men and started my service 5 th April 1960. I was then trained as an Air Wireless Fitter at Yatesbury and on passing the reqired tests was posted to RAF Mountbatten in May 1961, this was sited on the coastline of Plymouth Sound and the marine craft were moored on the Cattewater. Not long before I got there, the main base for the RAF Marine activities was on the I. of W. at Calshot but the decision had been made, due to the great contraction of the marine arm, as helicopters had taken over the rescue task and the loss in interest in aircraft operating from water, the MU ( Maintenance Unit ) was moved to the operational station at Plymouth. Mountbatten was quite busy with various activities and it was the H.Q. of Coastal Command the other activities was in providing targets for Shackelton training, dingy drill for aircrew and survival training for aircrew on Dartmoor. All the useful marine craft were moved to Plymouth and I would imagine things like Fire Floats would have been disposed of prior to the move. All that was at Mountbatten were RTTL's of various standards, RSL's and Pinnance's. The only strange item was an old Rescue Launch which was powered by 3 Napier Lion engines, all the later RTTLs had Rolls Royce Merlin derivatives. This was the only large boat that I ever had a fast ride on, but unfortunately we were only a few miles out of the Sound when one of the engines failed and we had to limp home. I never had a fast trip on a RTTL. I used to have lots of trips outside the breakwater on RSL's on RAF crew dingy drill, when the pilot under training had to jump off the boat with his uninflated dingy and when the RSL made as many waves as possible he had to inflate it and climb in whilst the launch continued to rough the sea up as much as possible. He then stayed in his dingy for about 45 minutes which was not very pleasant in winter. It was for us lesser mortals an enjoyable spectator sport to see commissioned officers undergoing sme discomfort. I think that all the odd marine equipment was lost when Calshot closed.

What type of wire? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 1 year ago
I am not sure from your original question if you were asking about sizing of conductors or on which type of conductor/insulation was the most suitable. The previous contributors have covered the size issue and here are a few thoughts on other features. From your comments it looked to me you were interested in having wiring in models you wanted to be around for a long time which is quite likely. I think my fireboat is over 50 years old now and is still stuck to gether with the original glue, but has had a number of up dates to its internals from very messy diesel to brushed dc motors. Most reasonably priced wiring is made from copper or tin coated copper wire if you need to do a lot of soldering, with pvc insulation, if pvc is irradiated this gives it a longer life. As far as I can see from my house wiring, so long as it is not flexed, ordinary pvc insulation lasts a long time, but does become brittle. In the defence/aerospace business since the second world war there have been various exotic systems used ( up until the end of the war rubber was the general insulator which did not last very long until it perished ). Various ones being silicone rubber internal insolators covered with glass fibre woven covers, this is horrible stuff to deal with when stripping, vynel with a woven nylon covering being another. With the advent of irradiated pvc and ptfe these were totally replaced. Ptfe is a very good insulator and is very stable and not attacked by any common liquids or solvents. Due to its good insulating properties the thickness of casing can be very thin, the problem with it is it is difficult to strip so you have to have a good pair of strippers. Another option in a model boat installation would be to use varnised copper wire like that used in various electrical items, solenoids, transformers etc. then stick this down on to a bed of epoxy resin and then add an extra coat, a bit like a fitted p.c.b. I have never done it but if it was well done could look quite interesting. If the radio side is a major consideration the above is not very applicable as, as has been said by others the choice is largely decided by the equipment you acquire.

Li-Poly batteries by nasraf Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
The link to rchelicopters.com that pmdevlin has indicated I found very informative and I think should be read by all those using lipo's. In addition if they follow its recommendations is likely to save them a lot of money as to the life they will get out of their batteries. One thing I discovered was the meaning of the two "c" values shown on the batteries which from what previous contributors have said looks a bit confused. From the web site article the lower of the two numbers is the maximum charge rate that can be applied to the battery without causing its immediate destruction i.e. assuming a capacity of 1000 ma.hrs and a "c" of 5, 5 amps would be the absolute maximum charging current. However if this rate is used the number of charging cycles that can be done before the battery is seriously damaged would be greatly reduced. The author of the article recommends that the rate should never exceed 1 c if you want to get a good life. The higher "c" rating is in general better understood and is an indication of the maximum short term discharge rate that can be drawn. Going back to an example of a 1000 ma.hr battery a "c" of 25 would give a discharge current of of 25 amps but not for long and the internal battery heating would not do much for the battery life.

Li-Poly batteries by nasraf Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
pmdevlin Sorry to confuse and you are right in what you say. What I was trying to point out was the relationship between energy storage and power availability. A big battery will usually have a greater energy storage capacity and depending on its design a greater power output but this is not always the case. As I would imagine the construction and manufacture of LiPo's is a bit of a " Black Art " as was the manufacture of many lead acid batteries and the likes of Boeing and Samsung have found out at great cost to themselves, if anyone has done any controlled tests on batteries used by the likes of our members it would be useful.

Li-Poly batteries by nasraf Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
I do not know much about the detail design of Li Po batteries but in the past have spent quite a lot of time and tax payers money looking at the performance of lead acid and nickle cad batteries when starting petrol engines over a large ambient temperature range and have the following observations, my interest in model boats is restricted to modest speed versions and I have enough trouble there with Li Po's. It is a pity that to impress those who have a limited knowledge that the capacity of these batteries is quoted in ma. hours rather than amp hours, I know it is easy to convert if you have a bit of a mathmatical background but not eveyone does. It took me many years before I understood the difference between energy and power and I think a lot of people still do. Basically the ma. hr. rating is the amount of "energy" that the battery can store but how much of it that you can get out is very much dependant on the rate of discharge ( i.e. the "c" value with its multiplier ) in general the higher the rate of discharge ( i.e. the "power" ) the less of it you can get out. In addition batteries have an internal resistance so the higher the " amperage " the lower the " voltage " applied to the motor terminals, so as "Watts" ( Power ) equals volts times amps the actual power available to drive the boat is reduced. Also the loss due to the battery internal resistance ends up as heat in the battery which does not improve its life. It must be almost impossible with the information available to be able to select the best battery available for the high rate discharge uses, I wonder if ayone has done any comparative tests?

ytgn 15 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
As usual it is a long interval since last up date but some progress has been made on the Valsheda and I attached some pics that had to be done indoors as it is a bit wet from the sky outside. I have finished the decking and basic painting of hull also started lime planking of deck fittings to bring into line with decking. Have worked out positions of winches on deck and obtained stock of brass rod at a sensible price from a local scrap yard. I have to produce some drawings of winches and get into production and have found someone who can plate them with a bright finish near to stainless steel. The Management of the Bristol Aero Collection has recently sacked me as a volunteer for being too critical of them so I will have more time to get on with the boat and with rising temperatures the garage is a bit more comfortable. With the warmer weather coming I will soon have to think about the manucture of the carbon fibre mast, has anyone else made one and can give me some guidance ? I am thinking of a timber core with a woven fibre tube covering. Also thinking of how to attach main sail to mast.

ytgn 14 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
I did not think it was possible to fit the deck detail with the old main hatch in place and the colour and plank widths were wrong. So made the big decision to take off old mahagony deck and repace with 3 mm lime. I had put the mahagony strip on with the non solvent version of evo stick so it was not a very tight bond and could be stripped without any significant damage to the main plywood deck. It is a bit of a long job but have done port side see pic. now for the other side I can only do about 4 strips at a time otherwise glue goes off.

ytgn 14 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
Here are a few pics. If there are any other VALSHEDA builders out there, if you send me an SD card min 100 mb and an sae I will downoad all my pics, ther are too many to send via the net at my upload speed.

ytgn 13 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
After another long break back to the subject of the VALSHEDA. I have decided to change the model from a sailing one back to display only, as I realise that putting boats into and out of water is not as easy as it was, in addition my younger son has moved in the USA and now resides in Marblehead MA where he has a big shelf over a fireplace that was made for a model yacht, particularly an English one in this year of a new challenge for the America cup. I have for some time been searching the web for detail pictures of the VALSHEDA but there are some but much of the detail is not easy to see. Whilst looking for the position of the boat I found that she was in the UK and had moved from Falmouth to Southampton last week. So on Saturday 11 July I got up early and made the trip there from Bristol. I was hoping to be able to get near to take some photos but initially found that the berth was up against a major reconstruction of the wharf and was enclosed by security fencing. It was a good job that it was a Saturday and there was no work in progress or any " jobs worth " H & S security and I managed to find a way through the fencing, there was only one small opening. From the wharf above the boat I managed to get a good range of shots of the details of, in particular the deck fittings. I am at present starting to paint the hull and it is surprising the number of spray cans required. My deck planking detail is not very good as the planks should be much thinner and not mahogany coloured, but it would be a lot of work to re do this and in any case, as it will be displayed above eye level not many people will notice. However the mast and rigging will all require re making but I think I can save the boom and I am still trying to make some good sails. I would like to make the new mast from carbon fibre on a timber core using a woven tube of fibre, I would be grateful of any advice on the method of doing this from those that have tried. The actual deck details on the real boat look like they are all manufactured from stainless steel and the cost must have be astronomical, but they are beautifull bits of engineering to compliment a beautiful boat. I intend to make as many as possible in brass and then have them chrome plated. This is my second attempt to day to do this blog, but last time I attached some photos and it may have overloaded the system so I am sending text only on this with a follow up with pics.

How do I fit a propellor shaft ? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
I am also not very good at loading messages, do not press submit reply more than once.

How do I fit a propellor shaft ? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
I am also not very good at loading messages, do not press submit reply more than once.

How do I fit a propellor shaft ? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
I agree with pmdevlin with reference to the use of oil as a lubricant In prop shafts. I thought I knew It all on my fire boat and Initially used grease, but I did some experiments as described In my blog " fireboat c of g " and was very surprised at the difference. As to locking the prop and coupling to the shaft this requires some care. On my fireboat I have had both the prop falling off and the coupling coming loose In the middle of the lake requiring the help of a fisherman and hiring a row boat to recover the stranded craft.

How do I fit a propellor shaft ? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
I agree with pmdevlin with reference to the use of oil as a lubricant In prop shafts. I thought I knew It all on my fire boat and Initially used grease, but I did some experiments as described In my blog " fireboat c of g " and was very surprised at the difference. As to locking the prop and coupling to the shaft this requires some care. On my fireboat I have had both the prop falling off and the coupling coming loose In the middle of the lake requiring the help of a fisherman and hiring a row boat to recover the stranded craft.

ytgn 12 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
I have at last finished the main boom and goose neck/kicker. Boom Is fabricated from 2 mm ply and has taken a long time after trouble with paint. Goose neck and kicker Is made from usual source of old water fittings some of which are soldered together, It has come out a bit heavier than I would have liked but will do for a start, It may look better If It was painted but I think that a coat of varnish will be the method.

ytgn 11 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
Pics of rigging and attachments.

ytgn 10 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
The pictures are of basic rigging made from fishing traces, they are made of stainless steel multI strand wire covered In plastic, ends are made off with crimped steel sleeves. Turnbuckles are machined brass rod but with only M3 threads, these are a bit delicate, so I Intend to change these to aluminium with larger threads. As I only have RH taps I use fishing swivels on one end to allow the barrel to rotate. I will upload photos In another entry.

Velsheda by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
HI Neil I tried to do a response to your 8 Sept post but It did not work so have a go on this one. Very Impressed by your detail work, almost makes me start mine again but too far In now. I like your brass work, Is It all yours or have you a supplier, If so I would be grateful If you would give details. Also Interested In your gooseneck joint between mast and main boom. I have made one and kicker from brass scrap but It has turned out a bit chunky. I have not done a yacht before, so am not sure If It can be made with main boom with only horizontal movement. I have at last made a fabricated boom but have allsorts of problems with the paint I have used. I still have to decide how to make sails and the method of sail control so would be Interested In how to do It. I have a nice new 2.4 GHz RC kit, so Interested In outcome of your recent radio problems.

ytgn 9 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
Now back In harness am begining to make some progress. This Is to manufacture the mast and rigging. The mast Is made from a piece of fishing rod, It Is a bit big and out of scale but Is quite robust and I am not trying to make a true scale boat. The spreaders are made from 1/8 thick aluminium sheet and are once again not true to scale but are quite strong and make fitting to slots In the mast a bit stronger. In order to fit and glue the spreaders In the mast I made a jig to ensure that all were held In alignment during the fitting and glueing process this Is shown In attached pics. Since my early contributions on this subject I find the Improvements to this site are very Impressive and those Involved In all the work that has been done deserve our great thanks and a bit of a contribution to the pot to cover the costs.

ytgn 8 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 4 years ago
It has been a very long time since I did any thing to the Valsheda I had reached a stage where I had to do something difficult so It has sat there for close on 18 months. I have also become very In volved with the Bristol Aero Collection that now takes up a lot of my time restoring various bits of guided weapon equipment. Any how thats my excuse, the bit I did not want to do was to fit the strips along the top edges of the deck, eventually I got the dremel out and fitted a 1.5 mm drill and drilled a lot of holes In the strips and then marked through to the deck and retained with panel pins. Then took them all out and refitted using epoxy glue and put the pins the whole way In. Then repainted the deck and strips with 2 part epoxy varnish. The heads of the pins are not flush In all cases so I will have to do a bit of careful fileling. Eventually I Intend to cover the strips with the same colour as the hull. I attach a few pictures as she Is with the various deck fittings, next job Is to make the mast and various rigging.

Voltage Reduction by nasraf Commander   Posted: 5 years ago
HI John Using motors out of power tools may be a bit risky as they may only be rated for short running periods and may be arranged with the field windings In series with the rotor to give max torque like a car starter motor. If they have permanent magnets for the field they will be ok as far as the winding arrangements are concerned, but may be short period rated as far as heating Is concerned. Series connected motors are not much good In model applications as It Is very difficult to control the speed. Shunt wound I.e. with the field connected In parallel with the rotor or permanent magnet motors,due to the back emf they generate run at a speed proportional to the applied voltage with the current changing as the load varies. If you do not mind replacing motors If they burn out or only run your boat for a short period the use of ex power tool shunt motor may be OK. A good solution would be as you suggest Is to run a motor rated at a higher voltage than the battery e.g.your 18 v motor/12 v battery combination thus derating the motor, but you will get considerably less power. Unless you are running a very power hungry motor the battery should not heat very much and discharging at these high rates will not do much for the battery life. Your battery has a capacity rating of 3.4 Ah, this means that In a fully charged state Is should be capable of supplying 3.4 amps at 12 volts for 1 hour. At a rate 10 times that I.e. 34 amps, the time of discharge mathematically Is 6 minutes, but due to the loss of efficiency In the chemical reaction In the battery the actual time of discharge will be considerably shorter, and heating In the battery may damage Its construction. I would have thought that with a 3.4 ah lead/acid battery It would be advisable not to exceed a max current of 15 amps and for normal running 10 amps. nasraf

Voltage Reduction by nasraf Commander   Posted: 5 years ago
HI John As usual Dave Is correct In all his advice but what Its worth I will add a bit more. I learnt the hard way see my bit In previous forum subject " Fireboat c of g ". You do not say what capacity your batteries have or your motor type so cannot estimate the sort of current your system will draw. Basically a drive system using brushed motors Is a series connected circuit I.e. batteries, wiring and speed controller/motor are all connected In a ring and consequently are subjected to the same current ( amps ) flowing through all of them. Dependent on the Impedance ( resistance ) of each Item, some of the voltage available from the battery Is dropped across each element Including the battery, this has Internal resistance of Its own so as the current rises the battery terminal volts fall. In the motor, most, you hope, of the voltage drop Is converted Into mechanical power, however In all the rest of the components virtually all the drop Is converted Into heat. My experience of the " Blue " esc Is that they work but mine results In a very large voltage drop across It, that reduces the voltage at the motor and consequently the power available, It also means that the electronics gets very hot and can cause Its death very easily, as many on this site can testify. So be very careful In how long you run your motor and check that the esc Is not getting hot quickly, If you have a dc voltmeter measure the voltage drop across the motor leads of the esc. In general I would not have thought that the motor control part of the esc would be that sensitive to the output available from a 6 cell I.e. 12 volt lead/acid battery, but If the controller has a bec output connector for the r/c system, this may be a bit more delicate. It may be sensible not to use this until you have some confidence In the rest of the system. It would also be advisable to Incorporate a fuse In the system to limit the current that the esc/motor can draw. Another safety Item worth considering Is adding a dropping resistor In the circuit of about 0.1 ohms this at 10 amps will lower the voltage available to the rest of the circuit by 1 volt but will at this current result In 10 watts of heating. At other currents watts can calculated by the equation. Watts =Ohms times Amps squared. Once you have some confidence In the system this can be removed. But In the final outcome, as Dave advises, It Is your decision what to do but be careful and proceed slowly and If running with the prop connected make sure It Is always clear of obstruction and stalling the motor. nasraf

re: a yacht yet to get a name by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
HI Hawkgripen Thanks for pics of your system to keep the water out, as my hull was a long way on In the build when I decided to make It a J class I did not think too much about the cabin designs so will end up with silicone sealant, the original Idea was to make a simple model but Ideas change as you go along. Your hull looks a much better job than mine, as I have said mine was supposed to be simple and made from a bit of a wreck. Is yours going to be a specfic J class and Is It scratch built, have you a plan? I shall follow yours with Interest as you go along, there Is no need to hurry and with the spring and a bit more light at nights lt gives a bit of encouragement to get It sailing before the end of the summer. You should start a building blog of your own, there are not many yacht sagas on the site.

ytgn 7 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
HI hawkgripen Long time since looking at site what with Christmas, the weather and computer problems. Thanks for suggestions and I think I will have to silicone the two cabin assemblies, as with any luck these may not need to be removed. The main equipment will be Installed In under the main hatch and I think I will seal this with a rubber gasket, the cover being held In place by magnets and steel strips, these rare earth magnets are very powerful and provide quite a high holding force.

ytgn 7 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
At last a bit of progress to report. It has taken some time to design and make the various deck structures, the attached pics show the bits all made from 2 mm ply. There are a lot of glazed windows on the Valsheda, so I thought a good method of making the multiple units Is to cut the complete window outline and to make the glazing from 2 mm perspex, to glue these In Initially with double sided tape, as used by dress makers and when fitted to apply a generous coat of epoxy resin over all the outside surfaces thus providing a fillet of adhesive between the perspex and the timber frame. The Intermediate glazing bars then being glued to the perspex. In this way thin glazing bars can be fitted and the glue does not extrude around the frame. A further coat of epoxy resin Is then applied over all the assembly. The rudder servo and linkages have been modified In order that the rudder can be removed for transport, this being held In place by a turned brass tube nut which represents the binnacle In the stern cockpit. At present the two cabin and cockpit assemblies are removeable from the deck so the problems of overcoming the leakage Into the hull still have to be resolved, the most likely solution will be to seal the main cabin assembly to the deck with silicone sealant, but as the aft assembly will require to be removable, some more thought will be required. Twin winches for sail control have been fitted, these are made from 6 volt motor gearbox units fitted with drums. The Intention Is to run the sail sheets round the drums with the tension being provided by elastic bands housed In aluminium tubes running for and aft.

ytgn6 part 2 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
Thanks hawkgripen for your various comments and advice, I have been a bit busy recently on various things, but on Valsheda making various deck structures. I do not think I will re build In fibre glass as I have spent too much time on restoring the timber structure, I am not much worried how well It goes, as I think I like building the models rather than sailing them. I have reverted to the original scheme of using a detachable ballast on the keel, I have now drilled the holes to fit threaded Inserts for attachment. The ballast will be a copper tube filled with lead with turned streamlined ends, this will be a little way off yet as I still have a lot of detail to do. The next two major tasks are mast and rigging and sail control system, then the sails and then the ballast. When I have finished the structures on the deck I will update the blog, but It Is getting a bit cold In the garage so It Is not as Inviting as the settee and TV.

ytgn6 part 2 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
My last post got a bit messed up and some was left off so here Is part 2. The Velsheda has 2 Inset cockpits that are Inserted through the deck so I shall have similar sealing problems to Dave's so I shall be Interested In how he resolves them. The J Class boats seem to spend a lot of their time In a very tilted mode with part of the deck under water, I am going to restrict the height of the sail rig to make It more manageable. On a yacht blog site I have seen,there Is a lot of worry about casting lead, with the respect to water In the mould and the need to get the C of G as low as possible, I shall revert to my original scheme of a detachable torpedo ballast cast In a metal tube.

ytgn 6 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
I have been following Dave M's progress on his Bristol cutter, as I am contemplating similar problems with the yacht. I have not progressed much on my build, but have done a lot of research on the J Class and have come to the conclusion to try and reproduce one particular boat, this will resolve the name problem but gives rise to others. As far as I can determine all 10 of the J class boats were different as far as their deck arrangements were concerned and not much Information Is available on the various details. So as I wanted to construct a uk designed and built boat and one that had a lot of photographs on the web, I have decided on the Velsheda. The Velsheda has 2 Inset

ytgn 5 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
Thanks very much for your comments and your reference to the J class and subsequent research has changed my course of action. I was thinking of making It a vintage Marblehead, but It Is fairly obvious that the model was originally a J class and although It was a static model, Its length of 119.5 cms fits It Into the size required.Also when I first obtained It the deck works were In keeping with this class, various cabins and a lot of winches. I have attached some pics of boat now that deck Is planked and my scheme for a variable mast position, this will now be altered to a fixed mast as I Intend to make It a sort of J class, I do not want to limit myself too much as It Is only Intended to be for amusement. I have so far only done a bit of research, so have a number of points to resolve. I do not now want to use a torpedo keel ballast, so will have to look Into a lead cast block and probably cut off some of the existing timber keel structure. Another problem will be the rudder, If I try and fit one like the original, as this has a tilted axis this will be difficult to do now that I have fitted the deck, what I might do Is to fit a fixed blade to the keel and fit a removalable fin one when sailing. I also have a problem now with fitting the control line on the centre line of the boat, but this Is what model building Is about, SOMETHING TO KEEP THE MIND ACTIVE.

ytgn 4 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
HI Dave As I have done away with my bath and only have shower now, flotation tests are more of a problem and my paddling pool Is not deep enough for the yacht, and too much hard work to blow up.. I am not sure that I want to put It In the water before the outside Is sealed. Therefore have done a rough calculation that Indicates a displacement of about 20 litres, as It at present weighs 3.5 Kg there should not be a problem.

ytgn 4 by nasraf Commander   Posted: 6 years ago
Thanks Dave for your last comments I have a tackle shop quite near and have used It but will have to look for shark bits. I have now attached old deck to rest of hull and finished adding filler to all the Imperfections, as the old deck had heavy scribe lines for planking I have fitted upside down and will plank with Individual mahogany 1 mm by 8 mm strips. I have Installed the sail winch and aluminium tubes, to run the control line for and aft through brass grommets on the deck. From my brother In law's vast store of fishing rods ( obtained from numerous car boot sales ) he has supplied me with a suitable glass fibre tapered tube for a mast. A few pics attached as It Is now.