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hi ya, I have just been reading up on your transmitter and it looks as though your transmitter was originally made for cars but it doesn't make any difference. Apparentlyit is a 2 channel transmitter which is supplied with a 3 channel receiver. Therefore when you plug the speed controller into channel 3, it isn't going to work. So the way you originally had it set up is the only way to get it working unless you go for a different transmitter. What is the range of these transmitters? because I have one myself which is a Planet 2.4 Advance T5 and its got an extremely short range because its called a park flyer - I am wondering if yours will be the same just for curiosity. Best of luck. John
hi ya Colin - I had a good look round the web to try and find the instructions manual for your Futaba FP-T7 UPH and it keeps coming up with the links that I have already posted but there are also one or two links which the firewall wont allow me to open - it says its got virus' on - so I wonder what that one is. I did come across an auction site - not Ebay - that had one for sale with the instructions and if you look at the instructions they are similar/same as the link I have already posted. So, I am wondering are these instructions for the two sets of transmitters - and possibly the one you have is an upgrade. I see on Ebay there is someone in USA who sells manuals on CD for around £8 if you desperate. Of all the transmitter manuals I have looked for this one is an oddball one for finding the manual. Happy days. John
hi ya J that looks like an Mtroniks speed controller in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the receiver and then pressing the button on the speed controller so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these Mtroniks are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. If this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE BATTERY) 🤓 Chinee smokey come out of speed controller if you do dat 😲 John
well back in the day (when Noah was building the ark) and I was serving me time :-) we used to have a golden rule about ferrous and non-ferrous metals and solder - Ferrous metals and alloys contain iron and they tend to rust; non-ferrous materials do not. . such as brass, copper and so forth and these are the easy ones to solder with soft solder. Ferrous metails which contain iron as we have said - we need to use a harder solder such as brazing silver solder and then we are into the field of Welding. Basically the art of soldering is to find out the type of materials we intend to join together and then we can come up with the appropriate method. Stainless steel is a different world altogether and so is aluminium. Hell of a subject to get into 🤓
I have just spent a couple of mins downloading and reading through the manual for your transmitter, Colin and I see you have limited mixing similar to the old Futaba 6A models. If it were me (going back to your original question) I would use this transmitter with a new receiver and fit these into your model and use tank steering as in the 4th diagram on that little image I put on of the electrical layouts. Very simple and straightforward. I think its channel 2 on your right hand stick used for rudder.
[Score: 5/10] Single Propellor Direct Drive to a MFA Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: This model was made by me from Glyn Guest plans - I made this a good few year ago. Of all the scale models I have built I like this one. When you take a scale model to the lake you have to be so careful not to damage anything - with this one you just put the model in the back of the car and throw it in the water - well not literally (you have to drive down to the lake first)🤓🤓 - many hours of enjoyment.
hi Toby I have received 2 books I was expecting and I am sorry but there isn't any information on folding bulwarks amongst them … big side track though; they are on about turret ships and these look really really interesting, possibly a future build methinks. I will keep looking for information for you,. John
hi there Colin - to stop confusion and people suggesting things that are totally 'confusing' 😊 1. What type of 2.4 transmitter do you have, what make and how many channels. 2. Can you put a photograph of your rudder servo in the model and the actual plug that fits into the receiver. This servo may not be compatible with what you are trying to do.
whether it be an extremely expensive way to build a model or any ship/car/boat/train anything - doing it via a monthly mag issue - the good side of it is it brings people into hobbies in a way that they may be able to understand, whereas people like ourselves who are already into hobbies - it tends to look expensive for what you get, but we may already have the knowledge of how to make these things. That is one way of looking at these mags.
Hi ya Colin I am going to post a link which I hope will explain about tank steering and other various forms of steering. Also, I will post a little pic on which is from the same site. by the way, I don't think any of us stop learning about modelling - no matter how long we have been doing it. It is on par of us understanding women we never will 😊 . https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/Twin_moto...
hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) 👍I was never 100% happy with this. It didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. 👍 the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/
[Score: 5/10] Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 80mins Direct Drive to a MFA 550 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built model from Jim Pottinger plans - I made this several years ago - plank on frame and the hull is double planked. 1:96 scale/
hi there I am in agreement with DodgyGeezer about the reliability of vintage radio gear. I believe the Digi4 servos were Linear movement, rather than rotary as in modern day servos and yes some of the old versions were 4 wire; with male plugs at the end. One of the main downfalls of these old sets was thing called 'black wire' its where the negative side wire in the electrical wiring system actually turns black and corrodes. The only way to repair it is to actually renew the wiring and once you have it in one part of your radio system, it inevitably works its way through the whole of your radio system. The transmitters do turn up on that popular auction site. I have often fancied purchasing one just to play around with it - but I wouldn't trust one operating a precious model on the lake, because I can remember the 27 mghz radio gear being very prone to interference from the slightest thing.👍 john
[Score: 8/10] Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (9.6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ACTion (40Amps) ESC - Comments: model was originally built by myself using a mixture of Vic Smeed plans and photographs/plans from a gent called Christian - my model is double-planked. Outer planking is scale sized; props both drive the same way as in the original boats.
HELLO Toby well, I have done a drawing, but, I forgot to label it before I scanned it in - (if you can call it a drawing). You will see I have drawn the hinges in and also the pin that would go through the hinge, you will notice that I have drawn an oblong hole in the end of the pin and this is where a tapered wedge would be driven in to lock it into place when the pin is through the hinge. There is also a chain (the scribbled thing on the top of the tapered wedge) which would be secured to the other end of the bolt to prevent it from being lost. The pins would only be removed from the hinges when the bulwark would need to be removed completed - and - this would be lifted out of place with a ships derrick. As far as handrails go, as far as I can find out, they are located in sockets which are rivetted to the deck and a pin / bolt placed through the bottom of the railing stanchion to secure it into place. Give me a couple of days (I am expecting a couple of books in the post) which are about tramp steamers - and - it may give us some more information of what we are looking for. Another book which I find extremely helpful (and you may have it already) is Merchant Ship Construction by H.J. Pursey It doesn't seem to have an ISBN number on this one - it was first published in 1942 :-) good book though - and sometimes it comes up for sale on u know where :-)
Cheers Doug for the compliment - she is 1:96 scale. I obtained the original plans from Greenwich maritime museum - the plans that they hold are as she was 'proposed to be built' in 1928 - the same as her sister ship HMS YORK - but amongst the drawings they supply are the correct hull lines - which are the ones I used for my hull - then I used literally thousands of images from all over the place to do the rest of the superstructure. Also, I used the aid of a small online plan of her rigging which shows a fair amount of superstructure detail of how she was built.
Here are pictures of HMS Exeter - I built her over a period of time plank on frame hull, covered in styrene to assimilate plating on the hull. The deck is all planked with individual planks - the guns are fully rotating and elevating but not firing :-). John
hi there, I posted the 2nd pic of the bulwarks opening out over to show that there were various styles of openings in bulwarks. You are correct by saying the plans show a dotted line indicating that the bulwarks would fold flat to the deck / be totally removable for loading access to the ship. As far as how the sections would be secured to the deck normally I think would be strap hinges with removable pins and also angular supports from the deck to the top of the bulwark. I have another pic which I found on the web but its got getty images ross setford stamped right over it :-) so this also shows large openings for 'gangway access' or 'access'