Step one coated inside of hull with polyester resin, poured in and rotated till all surfaces were coated. Poured excess into baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and mixed it with sand and left to set (later to be cut into small sections to use as ballast weights) Now leave for two days to fully cure before painting with White Hamerite.
Hi Boatshed, the Queen was treated with TRICLOROETHANE. Sorry can't divulge where but it was done in a laboratory by a guy who owed me a massive favour from when I was working. Even I don't know exactly how its done but sure worked. Wish I could get all my old boats done, as you I have many including an original fireboat from 1957. Also a Sea Urchin, and two Swordsman, a large launch from the early 60's Caroline is 56 inches, plus a 46 inch tug, about 8 other boats that need work, not to mention 5 sailing boats. Most of the fleet are used for displays at vintage and steam rally's. My wife and I spend the winters doing restoration work on models that get donated to us. Good night. Colin.
Well just got the Queen back home, it looks quite good, (big relief) as all paint and varnish has gone as well as the oil. Just stained where it had been, the epoxy I had used to stabilize the outside of the hull hasn't been affected, so tomorrow I will coat the inside to make sure that all seems are sealed before fitting the mounts for servo, motor, ESC? And radio. Then applying a coat of Hamerite smooth white. Hope to get my PC back next week then I can upload some photos. I can't decide which motor to use, 600 motor or a 6volt geared decaperm. Any thoughts would be useful. Thanks Colin.
Might have, but it was pinned with brass pins as well, so will be sealing inside with epoxy resin, then coating the hull with eezicote and extra fine glass cloth before painting and vanishing. Well at least she's stripped for action. It must have taken years off her. (Maybe I should get the wife dipped)? Don't tell her.
Well tomorrow I'll be collecting my Queen, apparently she held together and is now oil free, also varnish, paint and window free. Can't wait to get her home and start work again. Will reveal all tomorrow night.
Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads. I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin
Thanks Doug, your concerns are well founded, I have had previous experience of the stuff, so will be letting the experts do it for me In a lab. Yes it is a banned substance but some specialized labs can use it, and I still had a contact in such a place. Don't tell the wife about the old Queen. Colin.
Hi guys, thanks for suggestions, have managed to get some trichloroethane, degreeser have tried it on an old hull that was oil soaked and it left the wood clean and dry, but beware as it is highly dangerous to inhale the fumes. So hopefully will try on the old Queen at the weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the interest Colin.
2nd day of refurb, trying to kill the oil on inside, just don't seem to be able to dry it out, anyone got any ideas that might work. I've tried methylated spirit, engine degreaser and electronic component cleaner. So far it seems to dry out but after about 3 hours it's oily again. Or is there a paint that would cover and seal it.
Just started cleaning up my dads old Sea Queen. Spent four hours rubbing down hull (one half), as there is a bad layer of old fibre glass tape round the chine line. After cleaning back I found that the oil from inside had got into the joints. A lot of the nails had fallen out, so I have given a coat of epoxy , it now seems quite stable. Will do the same with the other side. The keel is delaminating so I will inject with epoxy and clamp. Hopefully she will hold together while I do the work so that I can coat the whole hull with extra fine glass cloth and resin. Will have to get more rapid set epoxy from pound shop tomorrow. That's all for now, goodnight all.
Is the SS GREAT BRITAIN, as the original as in Bristol UK. If it is I would love a copy as I have a model which is in need of major restoration as it had been in a damp cellar go 50+ years, but it deserves another life. Thanks Colin.
Sorry about repeats, phone screen wasn't showing as sent, also wasn't getting at you modern techno chaps, just wish all modellers a good life, my modelling is therapy for my arthritis. I used cad and g code in my job as an engineering works manager and once you get to use it it's just like drawing by without the hassle of pencil sharpening.
Tread any path you want to get the results you need, I'm not knocking how people do their models, just that some of us less wealthy pensioners have to rely on hand and eye to get the best results from whatever material is available. Most of my modelling is done using recycled stuff that people no longer have use for.
Here is my version. PM me if you want this and i'll send pictures and pdf with material list and detailed build instructions1/16th scale Fireboat Mast. MATERIALS LIST. Item A:- 1.6 Brass rod 45mm long. Item B:- 5mm dia brass Finial. (from dolls house shop) Item C:- 3mm Brass tube 47mm long. Item D:- 1.6mm x 4mm brass strip 64mm long. Item E:- 2 Off 3mm brass tube 68mm long. Method of build. Start by drilling Item B 1.6mm , then drill bottom 3.1mm x 2mm deep. Solder Items A,B, and C, together to form mast top. Then drill through Item B 90 degrees to mast with 1.2mmm drill for rigging line to pass through. Item D then needs shaping, by tapering on one edge only. 2mm at end to full 4mm x 26mm from end. Do this to both sides. (see sketch). Now drill centre 3.1mm and each end 1.2mm at 3mm from ends. Item E. Flatten one end to 10mm and opposite end to 8mm. Bend 10mm end to 120 degrees. Bend 8mm end to 150 degrees. Now trim 10mm end back to 5mm. Carefully radius 8mm end and then drill 2.2mm at 3mm from end. Now solder 2 x Items E to item D and locate mast top into centre hole and solder in place. The completed mast is held in place by two angle brackets which I slotted through cabin roof and glued with epoxy. These brackets need to be drilled and tapped m2. For the fixing screws 3mm from the top edge, then radius to smarten up.
Well Doug, relaunch went well and first trip round lake showed I needed to re-balast,as she ploughed through the water. So after consulting others at lakeside I added another 12v 7ah battery (ballast only) and moved the drive battery back by a foot. Placing them side by side amidships. Now she sailed properly. Even pushed the dinghy with 1 man aboard up the lake. So all in all it was a great day will try and get pictures posted and video. Problem being it's all on wife's camera and haven't figured out how to put on PC yet. By for now got to go help grandson. Colin.
I had a real good time and sailed my dads old boat for the first time, which was its first trip on water for 25 years. Thanks to the WMBC Members for making me feel welcome and for the advice, will now send in my membership as they are a great bunch with no pretensions. Thanks Colin.
Hi all, have just finished testing the Caroline. Dry weight including battery was 13.2 Kilos. placed in paddling pool and she sits nice and level, I attached a set of fishing scales to the transome and tethered them to bench at end of pool. Slowly increased power and at full throttle gave a reading of 7kgs on the scale, at half throttle still showed 5kgs and water was lifting over poolside. Although pool is only 1ft longer than boat enough power to lift bow, in fact she tried to climb out. So well pleased with results👍. Battery lasted 1.25 hours at half throttle. So looking forward to her maiden voyage on Worcester Model Boat club open day, I feel like a 5 year old looking forward to xmas😊. My son is going to help me on the day as she's such a big lump, should realy have a slipway launch. Hope some of you will be there to watch. Going shopping now, fire boat needs a new battery for fire fighting pump. Best wishes Colin. (photo WITH BLUE BACKGROUND was before refurb)
Hi Doug, the prop looks a bit small, but the boat is 5 foot long, and 1.5 foot beam. Weight? Not sure yet, first sailing in 22 years. As been used for display at vintage shows for last fifteen. So family is excited to see how dads old boat goes, as none of my sisters ever saw it. Fingers crossed. By for now Colin.
Hi guys, after reading all your advice including muddy's pm. I've fitted the suppressors and earthed the motor can to shaft tube, then run the motor for 6 hours starting on 1.5 volts And working up by 1.5 volts every 20 minutes, plus running in reverse at each voltage step. Finally up to 12volts. No arcing and no interference. But while doing this I found another problem, the prop shaft was bent, it took about half an hour to true it up, now super quiet. I used Mitchell Marine Grease in the shaft tube. (Available at all good fishing tackle shops). Tomorrow I will try to do a load test in water if my grandsons paddling pool will take it as I want to know the run time on my SLA and gell batteries. Well that's it for tonight I'm pooped. Good night. Colin.
Thanks guys, I will call at Maplins tomorrow and get the appropriate suppressors. It's good to know that help is so close at hand. The Worcester Model Boat Club open day on Saturday will be the relaunch day, as she hasn't seen water for nearly 20 years. Can't test beforehand as won't fit in bath. Will post pictures when we get home. Best wishes to all, Colin.