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>> Home > Members > Dave M
26th Apr 2008
Last Online
24th Jul 2017
Dave M

Member Stats
Member No. 79
Registered 26th Apr 2008
Last Online 24th Jul 2017
City Sandbach, Cheshire
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 20
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 1173
Photos Posted 602
Likes Received 370
Likes Given 180
1,812 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Crewe and District Model Boat Club
Since: 1st Jan 2012
Type: Naval Ship
Type: Other
SS Talacre
Type: Working Vessel
Clyde Puffer "Boozer"
Type: Working Vessel
+16 More
Fleet Admiral!
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
Top Ranking Member!
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 160
Forum Thread 5 120
Forum Post 2 2346
Event 8 104
Photo Gallery 10 70
Photos Response 3 468
Video Post 15 135
Video Response 3 126
Build Blog 20 100
Blog Post 5 320
Blog Response 3 990
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 16
Liked Posts 1 180
Received Likes 2 740
5883 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
battery charging by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 hours ago
Hi nutrunner and Mark If this is a NiMh or NiCad battery I suspect if it is completely flat and has been stored for some years in this condition it will not take a charge. My experience is that even if you can split the battery and resurrect each cell they will never hold any voltage under load. If you can find the local club you mentioned in another post there will be an expert available who will advise the best way forward. I suspect your best option is to buy a new battery. Model cars and planes use the same batteries and there will be a local shop. Good luck Dave

newbie by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 hours ago
Hi nutrunner I used to live on the Wirral and there are several clubs nearby. There is one at E Port, they used to sail in the top lock basin on Sunday mornings. New Brighton has a club as does Hoylake, at the Lifeboat station and West Kirby in the park. Runcorn also has a club. E port cover a fairly wide area so not sure which of the above might be nearest. All have friendly members who will help you with your new venture. Dave

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Chris Probably easier to apply to the hull with the deck off. You should leave the deck join area clear to allow for the glue. The bottom of the deck will also benefit and I usually use a pencil to mark where the formers join and keep the coating off this area. If you are using epoxy for the coating and the joining glue this may not be a problem. Once the deck is on apply another coat over the joints to seal. If you could a build blog would be welcome and helpful to other members, please. Dave

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Roy Yes I agree, but if you are mixing with DNA and applying over a large area this may not be the case. Dave

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Chris Always happy to share my experiences. Epoxy is basically a glue and whilst the aero boys like to use it with glass cloth to cover their wings because it bonds well to the wood and remains slightly flexible, my experience is it is dear, adds significantly to the weight, is difficult to apply evenly and has a nasty habit of running after application. We used on the large liners, having also seen the hype on U-Tube, and really struggled with the application. If I was using this as a sealing coat with or without cloth then I prefer Polyester lay up resin which is cheaper, thin and easy to apply, has controllable setting time and produces a much harder finish. Good luck with the registration, not sure I would want to get that close to HM Customs & Excise! Happy building Dave

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
You can buy a small pot from I only mentioned acetone as a cleaning agent. Dave

Denatured Alcohol by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Chris If you thin it will change the structure as others have advised. Gentle heat will result in the mixture becoming easier to work and apply as marky advises. If you apply too much heat there is a danger of fire so tread carefully. if you do use heat you will greatly speed up the curing process so mix small amounts and apply quickly. A dry brush is recommended to mop up any runs. In the recent hot spell I was using some to repair a fitting and the mixture was really thin and set in less than 60 secs. I use Acetone to clean my pots and brushes and the odd spill but wouldn't use to thin the resin Good luck and please post how you fared Dave

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Chris Mine just has a large flat ply plate over the bottom of the hull with the rx rudder servo and battery fixed in place. I use velcro for the rx and made mounting blocks for the servo. An aircraft snake connects to the rudder. The battery is in a small wooden compartment. My ESC is just below the motor mount hanging loose. You do need to strengthen the motor mount - I used lots of wood inside to make it all less pliable - the plastic is not strong enough on its own. You need to build a plinth to attach the motor high enough to attach your prop. This need to be well braced to take the thrust from the prop. Mine moves slightly and if I were to make another I would make it stronger. Mine required two small sheets of lead up front to keep it on the water at speed. Please post details of your build Dave

Smit Nederland no 528 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi brimarboat There are two Billing sites. The link I posted was for the on-line shop, the other site is the manufacturer's site. They do not deal with the public direct and direct you to Amerang (Ripmax) in the UK. Hope you can source the fittings Dave

Smit Nederland no 528 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Brimarboat Just looked on The Billing website and this model is advertised as: "All fittings included (e.g. position lights, anchors, life-belt, etc.)" They do sell all the electrical bits like motors, couplings, servos and Rc but the fittings should have been in the kit. Not sure of the scale but the measurements suggest 1:32 so you should be able to source suitable fittings. If it was a local shop I would be asking them to provide the missing parts Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Colin If the wood is impregnated with castor and ether you have no option other than to cutout all the affected panels back to the formers and fit replacements. You will need to add stringers to the formers so you can glue the new panels in place. Gorilla white wood glue will work well or epoxy. You can not paint over an oily surface. If you are lucky it will just be the engine bay that is affected. Please keep us posted on your progress Kind Regards Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Doug Progress especially with anything electronic moves at lightening speed and our PCs are almost obsolete as soon as we buy them. I suspect your sub like many of mine has kit sourced from an earlier period and I can well remember all kinds of suppression aids we used to have to use especially with our cars to suppress the interference from the ignition! I suspect it is only the modern high frequency ESCs that will have a problem, earlier kit used discrete chips that used much lower frequencies for the pulses. The original chips used became unavailable so manufacturers had to adapt to what was available. If your sub works OK I would leave well alone. Eric's problem could well be motor related but could also be from a faulty servo, my suggestion to unplug the rudder servo would eliminate this from the equation, but I am awaiting a response Sun's back but thunderstorms promised for tonight! Happy days Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Doug I well remember these chokes and that capacitor. I do believe modern thinking is to wrap the low current wires to the ESC round a circular choke, there are never any chokes in the supplied ESCs motor leads. I do recall advice on one of the forums regarding not putting any inductance in the motor leads, not sure if it was Electronize or Mtronic who gave the advice. They both adopted high frequency pulses for control a few years ago and there was lots of discussion as people upgraded their old ESC to a new one. Chokes were quite common in the past but the technology was vastly different to that used by modern ESCs. Are you sure the interference is from the motor? I had a very similar symptom with a faulty servo, very similar to that Eric is using. I have asked him to unplug the servo and see if the problem goes away. So far I have not had a reply so can only guess what might be the problem. Cheers Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Eric Have you eliminated the servo as the problem? Doug, won't your choke interfere with the high frequency pulses used in modern ESC's? and is there a max current capacity for the chokes? Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Julian Sorry forgot the pics Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Julian Only 8pm when I posted so not that late. May be small enough but is there a splined drive output underneath that top casing? You may need to add a short extension to the output. Could just be a bad pic as other sellers (Rapid) show similar with a spline above the top casing. I attach a pic of a similar type to the one I used. This is one that burned out in my yacht. Metal gears so kept the case for spares. The motor melted! 23mm long 10mm wide 25mm deep from base to bottom of spline. 18mm if you remove the bottom casing. Regarding suitability: are you intending to run the motor direct from a battery? The motor is very small and you will need to keep the voltage and current low (2v) to avoid overheating. The pulse internal driver will take care of this but without the electronics the motor needs protection. Using the pulse system from the Rx will require three wires and a spare channel on the tx/rx. Hope you can find a suitable servo Cheers dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Julian My 1:32 Trent lifeboat has a similar radar housing to your model. I made my radar casing around a very small servo with the feedback removed plus the the internal pins to allow for continuous rotation. You can remove the bottom part of the servo casing to make it even smaller. Mine sticks thro the top of the radar case and I plug the radar scanner onto the serrated drive. It worked fine but I subsequently removed the electrics and drive the motor via a voltage reducer ( I make my own based on a 317 chip) but they are cheap to buy. The real problem is the noise of the cheap gearing in the minature servos. OK on the water but very noisy if you are exhibiting inside. See pics Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
No need to change the servo. Just disconnect and see if the problem goes. If not disconnect the motor from the esc and see if it's the motor causing the problem, as you suspected. If you have a rx battery you could just disconnect the ESC. Regarding those minature servos in my experience they are all the same and driving a big lump of motor will be a heavy load. Looking again it seems there may be two rudder servos and either could have failed. Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi EricMB There is certainly interference as the Rx light is flashing almost constantly. The rudder servo looks like a small type that I have had problems with (twice) on my RG65 yacht used as the rudder servo. Initially try disconnecting this and see if the symptoms disappear. If not reconnect and disconnect the leads from the ESC to the motor and see if the problem disappears. It could also be a faulty battery connection so check the leads and try moving (twist and pull) them whilst switched on. Let me know how this goes as there are other things you can do to solve the issue Dave

Best Tx systems for boats by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Nick Yes Boatshed is spot on regarding 35Mhz, strictly for flying machines. If you are buying new then 2.4Ghz is the best way to go providing your model is on the surface, if it's a submersible then you need to use 40Mhz or 27Mhz as 2.4Ghz radio waves will not penetrate the water. There are many flavours of 2.4Ghz and they are not usually compatible with other systems even from the same manufacturer. If you have a local model shop or can attend a show then you can see and test what is available. You will also be able to get support should the equipment not work correctly. If you intend to have several models and want a rx in each to use with the one Tx then it s wise to see if single Rx can be bought and the cost, some can be expensive. Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Julian Please keep asking your questions. As a newbie you may well not understand everything we explain. You will not be alone so by asking questions there may well be others who will benefit from further advice and clarification. The more people we can interest in our hobby the better and I am more than happy to give help and advice. Best wishes Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Julian As Doug has already commented this is a very small coreless geared motor that reduces the revs down to slow speeds. They are incredibly small powerful and quiet. I have a stripped down minature servo in my Trent lifeboat which gives the required speed but it is exceptionally noisy, especially when used in a display environment. This motor is the best I have found on the market and is certainly suitable for your purpose. I do hope you manage to find the solution for your radar and that you share how on the forum. Cheers Dave

a very noisy fireboat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Paul As I already have the Action sound unit (Whitby lifeboat engine sound, my model) and a 20w amp I sourced some resonators from Holland They were out of stock for the initial order so I bought two lower power exciters to see what they were like. Attached to the back deck of my Trent and plenty of volume but the vibration was very visible. I have now received some 24Watt (Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter 24W 4 Ohm) similar to yours and they are attached to the hull sides above the waterline and sound great on the bench. Will be trying on our lake as soon as the weather improves but should be as good as the big 8" speaker I was using and several pounds lighter so the model will sit correctly on the waterline. Thanks for sharing this sound medium Mine are attached by 3M VHB (Very High Bond) adhesive so I am hoping if I need to move or replace I can buy some glue to re-attach Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Oh dear Could be to do with the EU fining Google. Have you tried another search engine? There is a pdf file of all the geared motors on the site so I will send you a pm. Cheers Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Doug Just Google it. Probably your authorities imposing their will again Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Just looking at the website my motor was the GH6124s, use the search box on the site. This motor doesn't seem to show when I looked Dave

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Nick I am fairly certain your problems are mainly battery related. Do you use the Tamiya (white plug and socket) type battery connector? If so these can make a bad contact which then causes all kinds of unusual problems. We did get a good connection with the ESC working correctly. Subsequently the same set up had no power. This could be a flat battery or a bad connector not making contact. If you push and pull the connector and the set comes to life you have found the problem. Charging the flat battery should get you up and running again. Getting late now so perhaps we can have another attempt tomorrow Cheers dave

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Nick Just a thought we have been working on this for a few hours, is it possible your battery has run down and needs charging?. If nothing has changed from when it was working and there is now no power this seems the likely scenario Dave

bargain of the day by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi marky It was some years ago but I think I do have a recollection of him doing something like that. I was far more interested in seeing the solder melt and flow into the joint. Must have stood me in good stead as I have always had no problem with soldering ever since. Well not if I prepare correctly anyway. Happy days dave