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Hi analyst We have a section All Things RC that shows basic RC set up. For the boat you will need two servos and given the size I would go for large heavy duty type servos. One will control the rudder(s) the other the engine throttle. As you are wanting endurance and you have a large model a 12v SLA with a UBEC to reduce the volts to 5/6v. Have a look at http://www.componentshop.co.uk / for a selection of what is available. Radio wise you may want to consider the Taranis long range receiver as this will give you the range you originally mentioned and certainly more than the standard X8 receivers. The aerial should be as high as possible and as far away from any interference as possible (sparks from the ignition). You cannot extend the aerial length but as you are into amateur radio this is something you will understand. Video is another matter. I believe 5Ghz is the common allocation and I suspect this will be line of sight which may be a problem on a sea going vessel in rough seas or round an inlet. The hull looks good and I look forward to seeing how you progress Dave
Hi Ed It's too long for the available message space. If you just use the first part up to the / it will take you to the site. Safer to navigate within the site than rely on links. It's in Italian so you may need to use a translation service, Google's works well. Dave
Hi Sonar I suggest you try maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/. Look under components/capacitors and you want the second page ceramic capacitors 0.1uf. If you have a local outlet it will be quicker. You do not need a dual ESC two identical ESC's is the way to go. If you are considering Mtronik look at http://www.mtroniks.net/cat/ex -demo I have used several of their ESC's and they work well. The ex-demo refers to ESC's that have been tested to spec, so you do know that they will work. Dave
I have used this type of motor and they work well. If you are after torque then a five pole motor will give more. You are running at excess voltage so they will exhibit some stress if run at full power for any length of time. You should measure the current at 12v to see what is being drawn, I believe mine when connected and running free used to draw about 2.5 amps on 12v. It will be considerably more under load. I used three 0.1 uF capacitors across the terminals and case as they will spark at the higher voltage. Do also make sure that all your (dirty) power wiring is well clear of any servo wires and the rx and aerial. They can be quite current hungry and I used an Electronize ESC on each motor. Any good 20/25 amp ESC will be suitable but if you are using two and they have a built in ESC you need to remove the red (+ve) wire from one ESC lead to the Rx. Good luck and please post details of your final choice and experience. Dave
If brushless no you can't. If they are brushed motors it's possible but they need to be matched closely otherwise one will run faster than the other. Ideally you need to try the motors side by side measuring the current drawn and speed. If you have a local supplier with several motors available this may be possible but not on-line. The ESC will need to be able to supply (ideally) double the stall current of both motors. If this is not on the label with the motor you can connect one of them to your chosen battery with an ammeter in series and briefly grip the shaft between two pieces of wood and stop the motor. The reading when stopped is the stall current but this should be for a max of 1 second to avoid damaging the motor. Multiply this reading by four and that is the max amperage for the ESC. It may be cheaper to buy two ESC's and use a Y lead to connect to a single Rx channel. This will also lessen the effect of using two identical but possibly mismatched motors. Hope this helps Dave
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
Hi Ed I would not recommend making the angle get some pre formed. Bending plasticard to a sharp right angle is not advisable even with heat as it is very likely to fracture. You should be able to source locally. It is not cheap but will do the job. Dave
Hi Paul Great looking video. Was this Gautby Rd? You can post the u-tube link in our video gallery if you want. Then again using the link allows subscription to all your posts and see all your videos. Dave
Hi Ed I would probably use the back edge of a small chisel to gently scrape the paint from the plastic. To aid adhesion any shinny surfaces need to be gently scoured to allow the glue to penetrate the plastic. as you have some scrap you can see if MEK dissolves the plastic, if it doesn't it wont work. If it's PVC then you will need a PVC type glue as methyl ethly ketone is for plasticard type. PVC is usually used for guttering etc, I would be surprised if it was used for your model but it would explain the poor joints. As you can't get inside you will need to add a cover all round the boat over the join. You can get angled plasticard which would certainly help strengthen the join especially as it is carrying the 21lbs weight. The added benefit would be a neat edge all round. You can shape plasticard by heating in warm water and bending to shape. If you tape in place it will retain the shape when it has cooled. You might also be OK using your Z -poxy providing you roughen the angle and hull where they join. Dave
Almost certainly the culprit. Is this a plastic to plastic joint? Can you add a fillet to the inside of the hull to increase the joint area? If it is all plastic you could remove the paint up to the rubbing strake and add a thin 1mm sheet of plastic all round the hull to seal the gaps. Plenty of MEK solvent will make a strong and watertight joint. I would also scrape off the paint all round the seam and fill with MEK and some dissolved scrap plastic to fill and seal the gap. Dave
Hi Ed What a bummer. I agree with Mark on how to find the leak(s). I have looked back over your blog and on page three you mentioned the plasticard hull had split and you showed a pic and the subsequent repair. I suspect this or a similar joint where the plasticard is bent may be your problem. You have mentioned resin covering but this may not have been possible. What glue did you use? Plastic can be difficult to glue. Stablitz Express was the best when I used to build the Robbe and Graupner model planes. Not cheap but works. UHU Plus Acrylit ( a direct substitute) is available in the UK, Leeds Model Centre http://www.modelshopleeds.co.u k/ have stock, use the site search to find it. Hope you find and cure. Dave
Hi Ed Just looked at the CMB site and found http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk/acatalog/graupner_crew.h tml#aG375_2e42. They appear to be the same as your figures. The link works, it's possible that your link is for the USA. Figures are very realistic. Dave
Hi Ed The link you posted is rejected by my McAfee. However if you just go to the website http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk and then type scale figures in their search box you can see all they have on offer. Adding the scale you require (eg1:32) produces just this scale figures. As you have already found the figures perhaps you could share the section and scale details? Dave
Thanks We have a site member in the Phillipines who is looking to source modelling supplies. He doesn't want to use the UK as he is hit with punitive import charges. As he is in your part of the hemisphere I suspect he may be able to buy more locally but has not been able to find suppliers. Any suggestions? Dave
Hi Wayne Spoke to Darren yesterday and he is happy to discuss your plans for the fast boat. If you pm me with your email address I will pass it on to Darren so he can contact you. He is a shift worker so this is the best way to make contact. Dave
I have a large 4' Puffer purchased many years ago form Martins Models at an E Port show. Originally I tried lead but it became very heavy to carry. I modified mine by making three large sealed fibreglass containers in side the hull which were open at the base and had open portholes at the top exiting thro the hull sides. I now only need about 1lb of lead plus the 12v 12Ahr battery to ballast. Put the model in the water then add the battery and ballast, the boat sinks to the waterline. Take the battery and ballast out and the boat rises, lift with two straps and all the water drains leaving a light hull to carry. The pic shows the model in its lead ballast days.
Nice realistic weathering on the model. Does the whole superstructure and masts/rigging lift off? That's a nice looking steam unit, was it home built? Thanks for sharing it should inspire us all to get building.