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Hi Doug Welcome to the site. Regarding a club you could either continue with the name or rename it to reflect the sailing location "Ostpark, Munich". You may also want to include reference to "the Biergarten". Sounds the sort of place any old salts would be happy to frequent. I hope you attract some fellow members, it's surprising how many live in the area and are looking for some where to sail their models.
Neodym magnets are excellent for holding hatches, decks etc in place. I have just sourced a selection from ebay and bought two 10x10mm. www.web-magnets.co.uk.I had not considered using as a rescue aid but these magnets are exceptionally strong and once attached are very difficult to remove so certainly up to rescuing a model. We sail many yachts and it can be difficult to find a safe attachment without causing damage. I do hope you keep us posted on the automation of you features. On water shots are always good especially if they capture other models on the water. Dave
Thanks for the update Kevin Descriptions with pics help new and aspiring modellers to perhaps start building. Our members have a wealth of information and are very good at providing solutions or help. Dave
Sorry to hear that Colin is not well. I believe he was in discussion with AlanP last year regarding a couple of hulls Alan was wishing to move on. Please pass on my best wishes for a speedy recovery. Dave
I know one of my club members has a 1 mtr mahogany Yacht refurbished scratch built by Bert Smith 2010 for sale. Bert sadly passed away a few years ago but his yachts were all built to race and sail exceptionally well. If you are interested please pm me for details. Dave
Simple answer is yes, you need to wire the motors so the props both rotate in the correct direction. I usually use a wetted finger behind (stern) the prop to feel the wash of air when rotating in the forward direction. if you can feel it from the front (bow) side it needs the wires swapping on that motor. I suggest you also check that the tx channel is set in the normal as against reverse setting before you start as some ESCs run slower in the reverse direction. Hope this helps and if you find my post helpful please tick the like box as it helps others find the post Dave
Hi Steve It would be possible to make a silicon mould and cast with Fast Cast resin. Quite a lot of work for just two parts, and making the mould to allow the air to escape would not be easy. You could make the parts from some plastic rod fettled to shape with the blades from Litho plate cut to size and super-glued in place. Having originals to copy should enable fair replicas to be fashioned and as they are static and part hidden in a tube round the props I believe it is do-able. Good luck Dave
Hi sandkb Looking good. If you are intending to post build updates and ask for help I suggest you go to Build Blogs and start your own blog. You can then keep adding to the blog when you have progressed with the build. It not only helps inspire others, but may result in others sharing their own experiences with similar builds. Good luck with the build and if you like my post please tick the like box.
Hi Mark Unless you are looking exactly at the side of the model with your eyes aligned to the level of the line it will look wrong because the spray rail is raised from the hull. If you remember the old type of analogue volt meter, the better ones used to have a mirror on the scale to ensure you were viewing from the correct angle. I suspect now that we have aired the matter many will notice this on model boats. I suppose we are all wishing to achieve the correct finish to our models and yes we are sometimes too exacting. Dave
I agree and it also looks wrong on my model. I used trim and cut to fit over the spray rail and it just doesn't seem right. The raised spray rail means it will only look right when viewed at exactly 90deg, any other angle and it appears un-aligned. Perhaps the solution is to not to put the trim or paint on the spray rail. I doubt if the eye would register its lack and possibly not as much as if it were present. I may try on my 34 model to see if it works
Hi Cliff I believe the RNLI use Oxford Blue, and if you use rattle cans then Ford Galaxy Blue or Ford Balliol Blue have been suggested as being close. Whatever you use you need to prep the hull well and apply multiple thin coats rubbed down between coats to achieve the finish seen on a lifeboat. Good luck with the Solent, perhaps you will share some pics of the model?
Hi Paul Not sure who owns. Its not part of the Boundary Park site but adjacent as you say, and posdsibly Council, I will ask Alan Blackhurst when I next see him and let you know. Busy getting the Olympic and Titanic ready for the Universal Model Show at the end of Feb. Just my luck Bill has misplaced all the rigging and ratlines for the Titanic. Cheers dave
Hi Paul There are lakes either side of Boundary Park. If you refer to the one over the other side of the A50 road, I believe it is privately owned and people have to pay an annual fee just to walk their dogs. Possibly also used by a fishing club. Going the other way, towards the motorway I understand this may be council owned but you are allowed to walk your dog. Either way you are unlikely to get permission as the local properties all fall in the £1M plus category and they are likely to object. Just a bit of background, the lakes were all created when the M6 was constructed with the sand dredged. They are all fed from ground water and are not fed from streams other than some overflow channels from adjacent lakes. Makes for nice clean water but subject to weed growth due to chemicals in the ground water table. You are very welcome to come with your boat, please send me an e-mail so I can be sure to be present Dave
Hi Paul You are welcome to come and sail at Boundary Park with Crewe MBC on a Sunday afternoon from 1pm or Wed if you have a day off. Boat going well but I agree you do need a much bigger lake. Good to see that you are re-kindling your interest in model boats. Dave
Hi Welcome to the site. I see from your profile that you are resident in the USA. There are suppliers in the UK and Europe but transport costs may make them costly. Robbe used to do a kit of a similar vessel but at about twice the size. Many hulls are made of fibreglass so would they suit your purpose? You may like to look on http://modelsbydesign.co.uk/mo del_boats.aspx. Dave
Just looked at the media file. You have to download to view. It should be possible to share on this site. Perhaps you need to ask Stephen (Fireboat) to help if you are having problems sharing videos. The mechanism is coming together nicely and the etchings have turned out well. Looking forward to seeing the finished paddle wheel Dave
Hi Cliff I believe it would have been 3:32 or possibly 7:64. The important point is to make sure you do not weaken the brass tube but also be sufficient to allow the chain to pass through. I suggest you buy some chain then use the smallest drill that allows the chain to pass through. I suggest you look at www.eileensemporium.com/ as they supply brass tube at reasonable prices and different thicknesses. I bought my chain from SHG http://www.shgmodels.com/. Download the catalogue and look at page 25. Good luck with the build Dave
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave
Allen R As far as I am aware there is no target for donations. Membership is and always has been free. Our membership has always grown steadily and the wealth of free advice and expertise is a credit to all members who donate their time to help fellow modellers. Whilst I am sure Stephen is happy to accept donations to help fund the costs this is voluntary and targets, to me anyway, suggests otherwise. Dave
Hi Ron You seem to be progressing well. I doubt if the motor placement will cause a problem as there is plenty of room to place the battery aft to obtain the correct waterline. You may need to consider opening a hole in the middle former to allow the battery to fit at the optimum position. I suggest you do a quick test float to see where your battery needs to fit. If the wood is still untreated you could wrap the hull in cling film whilst testing Dave
All the Dean's kits have this way of packing the fittings. I use sellotape to keep all safe just scalpel open the compartment then seal with sellotape. I have a part built Robert E Peary which I intend to complete when time permits.