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>> Home > Members > Dave M
26th Apr 2008
Last Online
23rd Sep 2017
Dave M

Member Stats
Member No. 79
Registered 26th Apr 2008
Last Online 23rd Sep 2017
City Sandbach, Cheshire
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 21
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 1283
Photos Posted 646
Likes Received 512
Likes Given 189
1,937 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Crewe and District Model Boat Club
Since: 1st Jan 2012
HMS Bluebell
Type: Naval Ship
Type: Naval Ship
Type: Other
SS Talacre
Type: Working Vessel
+17 More
Fleet Admiral!
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
Top Ranking Member!
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 168
Forum Thread 5 125
Forum Post 2 2566
Event 8 104
Photo Gallery 10 70
Photos Response 3 477
Video Post 15 150
Video Response 3 132
Build Blog 20 100
Blog Post 5 320
Blog Response 3 1008
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 16
Liked Posts 1 189
Received Likes 2 1024
6457 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
Added extras by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Forgot to mention, I sourced the props from Simon @ Protean Design Dave

Added extras by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Skydive I use a couple of Bhuler motors in my Solent so the 600 should be OK with your setup. The Solent was not a fast boat with a max speed of about 10 knots. You will need the battery for ballast. I have a whole series of pics of my model during restoration that I will share over dropbox if you wish. Just send me a pm with your e-mail. My stanchions were about 2" if I remember correctly. Looking good Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi neil Good to see your are progressing. It's good to see that Paul has joined in the discussion and offered help.👍 He has a superb model at the larger scale and has been an avid supporter of Fireboats and the site since its inception. With this small model it is important to keep the weight to a minimum and whilst sealing holes with glue and filler is OK, I would go easy with soaking the wood in epoxy, it's heavy. Far better to cover with a sheet of tissue/glass cloth and apply a thin coat spread with a plastic (credit Card size) spatula to work well into the covering. It would be good to see a few pics of your whole model. Say two side views, a top view and a stern view. If you can weigh that would also be useful. Might help when you need further advice on the build Cheers Dave

yacht by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Yacht sails great. The power model owner needs educating regarding giving way to sail! Plenty of room for both models on that water without sailing in close quarters Certainly a bargain at a fiver Dave

Tilgear by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Doug I can understand your concerns and I hope the position is resolved soon for all those affected both here and abroad. Dave

Tilgear by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Yes it's called the EU. Dave

HMS Bluebell by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 36"/1600g HMS Bluebell Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 550 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitek (5Amps) ESC - Comments: The original Matchbox model of the Flower Class Corvette. Fully detailed and crewed.

Tilgear by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
UK prices have been higher for imported model supplies since we joined the Common Market in the 1970s. VAT at 20% also adds considerably to the cost. Not surprising that many choose to buy on line from HK and China etc. Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Neil Your model is the 34" Crash tender with one prop. Twin prop versions as per the real craft do need the support. On a single screw you can add a fillet of wood to fill the space and provide the support. Paul may well have used a 50mm prop on his model but my measurements were fo a 30mm 3 blade brass prop and that works perfectly. Using a disc cut to the size of the prop is a useful tip when fitting the prop tube For very fast models you will need a water scoop but for a novice this is an additional complication and I doubt if you will need one. Hope you are progressing with fitting the shaft Cheers Dave

Individual Insurance by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Most model boat clubs offer insurance as part of the membership fee. My own club is no exception and we introduced this benefit to protect all our members in the event of an accident resulting in a claim for 3rd party damages. Previously we had relied on members arranging their own insurance, but it became increasingly difficult to ensure that every member's insurance was current and up to date as it had been taken out at different times. I agree generally model boats are less likely to give rise to a claim as compared to a flying model or even a model car as they are sailing in water and therefore not near the general public. However accident can and do happen and the club and all its members may be held responsible so Club insurance is really important. We live in a society where it is common practice to blame someone else for our own actions and organised clubs and societies make easy targets. I suspect the biggest risk is when the models are on the bank or at a display where masts and other sharp bits can cause injury. Insurance cost is based on the risks and probability. The larger the user base the more spread the risk and the cost. I suspect there are insufficient model boaters so insurers prefer to offer cover for all modelling risks. I do believe MPBA have a country members scheme that may suit your purpose, however it works out at twice the cost my club charges members for insurance. Sail safely Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi neil Not what you require. This is a bearing and frame for a shaft that extends beyond the end of the propshaft. The original design for an IC motor had the shaft much further from the hull, hence this support was required. As I advised on your other post you do not need this support. Just fill the gap between the prop tube and the hull with a triangular sliver of wood to provide support. The shaft should be no more than 3/4" below the hull at the prop end. Dave

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Alan Look like good soldered joints. You should be proud of your achievement. Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Neil That link for the seal is for a flexishaft drive. Totally different to a propshaft and proptube. Used by the fast racing fraternity. I am not sure it would work in your setup. Anyone used one with a solid propshaft? Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Neil Sorry was in a rush this morning so misnamed the water scoop hole as the skeg. As regards the skeg you don't need it. Just fit the propshaft and then fill below with a fillet of wood as used in the original Aerokit models and mine. An oiler is useful but your shaft doesn't have one and for a novice they can be difficult to fit. Like Doug I solder mine. I see my friend Steve at Model Boat Bits stocks easy fit oilers and they would be fine if they are the right size for your propshaft. If you do get one make sure you remove the propshaft before drilling the tube and get all the swarf out afterwards. Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Neil Just about to go out so short reply Your shaft is 1 1/4" above the hull bottom, so almost 1/2" too high from the hull. If your rudder is 1 3/8" from the stern this will be ok and I would leave it alone for now. Block up the skeg hole. Yes 3 1/8" is the distance from the stern to my shaft. You need to measure the distances from each sides of your hull to find the true centre and mark this on the hull. I am not convinced your shaft is truly square. It needs to be equidistant from each side. If you open up the slot in the hull you will be able to position the shaft correctly in line and at a shallower angle. As long as there is room to fit the prop the shaft can be positioned nearer the rudder. If there is still room inside the hull to fit the coupling and motor then the longer shaft may be OK. Sorry have to go. Back later today so please ask if you need more guidance. Don't worry too much about making the slot too big, you can repair with filling once the shaft is correctly placed. Cheers Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Neil I have just been and measured my 34" Fireboat. The shaft is 8" long. In situ it is 3/4" below the hull bottom and 3/4" above the hull inside. Inside the hull the shaft rests on the former aft of the original engine space The prop is a 30mm 3 blade brass. My rudder is 2" in from the hull stern. The shaft is 3 1/8" inches from the hull stern. My skeg below the hull is 1 1/4" deep as this was on the original hull I renovated. It finishes 3" from the hull stern. If you haven't already I suggest you remove the water scoop and fill the hole with dowel and filler. I agree with Doug, leave the rudder in place if the distances are similar to that I have given. Looking at your pic it would seem you will be able to raise the shaft and still have room. To do this you need to cut the shaft hole towards the stern so the shaft can be closer. Do make sure the shaft is in the centre and straight and not aligned to the off centre rudder. A small hole aft of the rudder on the centre line with a cocktail stick may help. The water pickup is about the right distance below the hull but needs removing. You do need to check inside the hull to see that there is sufficient height on the prop tube to allow for alignment with the motor and base. This is just a check, the motor can be fitted and aligned later. Looks like a nice claen hull Cheers Dave

General sailing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug Yes confusion abounds and any help is welcome. The battery is marked 4000Ma, the 8amp relates to the max charge current. I suspect these are of Chinese origin and the info has been corrupted in the translation. The 30C relates to the discharge capability (30xC) C standing for capacity, in this case 4000Ma. As they quote 8amp charge current then you might assume the battery will stand charging at 2x capacity, then again this may be down to translation problems. I don't use to the full capacity, my biggest current draw is from my Sea Queen a full speed drawing about 27 amps on a 2200 Ma 20C 11.1v LiPo. I am aware however that we have several speed merchants amongst our membership and its important that they understand. We have both helped where ESC's/Motors etc have got hot or cooked so I'm quite sure the info needs to be understood and explained, possible more than once. Good point about the charging bags and preferable outside the house in a non flammable area. I did jump but only to clarify. Beautiful sunny day in Sandbach, Cheshire, no doubt it will be wet tomorrow, a sailing day Dave

General sailing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug I am impressed. There are also LiFe batteries around and are somewhat safer for Tx/Rx use, but require the same care as all Lixx batteries. I am confused by the CONRAD battery rated at 4amp and 30C. I would say this suggests a 120A max burst current. I can't see 60C marked on the battery. It may well be capable of being charged at 2C ie 8amps but like you I would never consider charging at this rate. The higher power and performance batteries are capable of taking higher charges and will withstand the heavy discharges demanded by those who race fast models. However such batteries are for the serious racers and do not come cheap. I do have one concern and that is your mention of overnight charging. I agree this may be OK for NiCad, NiMh and SLA's but LiXX batteries should never be left on charge unattended and certainly not overnight. My chargers have settings for Lixx batteries that adjust the charge current for the voltage and capacity and automatically give a varied charge current until the battery capacity is achieved, balancing the cells at the same time. Dave

Telephone mast by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug I knew you would have a more detailed answer. I agree any interference would be on one channel. Problem is not all cheap Chinese imports hop over the entire band, tending to pick one or two uncluttered channels when they switch on and intermittent interference could be a problem. As you say probably unlikely but we used to have a spot in the old New Brighton lake where unexpected things happened to our boats. We always used to blame the cross river radar and a sunken pipe under the lake, but just like the Bermuda Triangle the answer remains a mystery. I like the idea of baked spuds, but would they make you glow in the dark🤓 Dave

new brighton model boat lake by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
I don't trust any Politician, local or otherwise! Dave

Telephone mast by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Ken I do believe they use a higher frequency but if they are very close you may experience some interesting episodes. As they are all digital the signal should be rejected from the bound rx as the code will be incorrect. Hopefully the high power will all be to the top of masts so your models won't be affected. Please keep us posted. You could contact the installer and ask the question, or perhaps the council can ask? Dave

hooton park heratige site by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Is this the EPort Club sailing venue? Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Yes it does but there is a cover over the shaft so you can't see the whole train. It is all square and true and needsss to be - the original motor worked loose and self destructed😭. I just used this old photo to show the distancing so hopefully it served its purpose. As regards the tacking I don't believe we are suggesting anything different and regardless of the age of the aperture the principle is the same. Still no wind so will have to be the "Searcher" Customs cutter sailing Dave

new brighton model boat lake by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
I believe they are all Public and the clubs will certainly welcome fellow modellers. Just make sure you introduce yourself before switching on and sailing to avoid any frequency clashes! They may require you have Public Liability Insurance if you are sailing when the club is in attendance, and as they are in a Public area it would be in your best interests to have such cover. I sail in Cheshire with Crewe MBC at Boundary Park, near Knutsford on a private lake but we welcome visiting members and have Club Insurance to cover visiting modellers as guests. I'm assuming you are not talking IC, steam or very fast electrics as many waters have restrictions on such use. Dave

schumschimmer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Looking forward to the next video, an on board camera would be very interesting! Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Doug My suggestion was to fit and tack the shaft in place ie not try and fill the whole joint until it was all aligned. I prefer Plastic Padding as there is less chance of misaligning the tube, but either method works. Not sure which pic you are referring to? Cheers Dave

new brighton model boat lake by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
I used to sail there in the 1970s and it is a good site. As previously mentioned there are times when the wildlife and Public can be a problem but the setting right on the promenade is beautiful and you get lots of fresh sea air. There is also another similar sized lake outside Hoylake Lifeboat station and West Kirby have access to the lake in the park so the area is well served for model boaters. All have resident clubs so plenty of helpful and friendly advice. Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Doug Postal charges can add substantially to the cost. The charges from Krick are very high especially to the UK. Their website postal charges page suggests they only ship many items to Germany. So much for the EU being an open market! Our members are from across the globe so our USA and Australian friends will also have their own resident suppliers. HobbyKing as you say are Worldwide - just be careful which warehouse you buy from! We have many UK suppliers who sell a whole range of kits and fittings and I use Google to find local suppliers. SHGmodels are long established and do carry a vast range of bits and pieces for the model builder. Sorry no, I am not going to produce a 3D motor mount. No doubt someone will eventually do so via Thingiverse! Wayne must be on hols again. Was going to sail my Schooner today but there is no wind!!! Happy days Dave

Deans Seaplane tender by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Doug Krick may be good if you are in Germany but their shipping charges are 14.99 Euro to the UK so it makes goods rather costly. I didn't pay that much for my two KMB water jets from Germany and sounders from the Netherlands so it must be the delivery service they are using. If we ask Wayne perhaps he will 3D print a mount for us😁 Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave