Hi Welcome to the site You haven't stated what ESC you have so it's a bit difficult to give advice. Most ESCs require some initial set up and it sounds like yours needs adjustment. If you can work one servo OK you presumably have a separate Rx battery? Many ESC's have a built in BEC and don't need a separate battery. There are 5 channels on the Planet so its important that you are using the correct channel for your rudder and ESC. You can use the rudder servo to select the channel you want to use for the ESC then plug the ESC into that channel and the servo into the rudder channel. We need to know what ESC you have to give further advice? Dave
Hi Wayne You will need ventilation holes to keep the temperature down. Hopefully this will help reduce the noise and smell! Mine isn't so bad temp wise if I don't use the heated base. It's great when it works, my advice is keep experimenting, it becomes easier the more you print. If you are using websites for help then you will know there are better software options than the basic supplied with the unit, unfortunately they come at a price. For hobby use you may decide the items you produce are OK, but for commercial use the cost may be justified. A useful first project is to make a cooling fan hood for the printhead. It helps keep the shape of long extrusions. Enjoy Dave
Hi AllenA Welcome to the site. Your model looks superb and you have restored to almost original condition, including the MacGregor! Looks better than the one I used to own! The smaller prop will be much better, I have cooked a couple of speed 600s with a too large prop. The lip at the front may not bwe correct but it certainly fits with the period when the model was built. Good luck with the new prop and perhaps you will post a video so we can all share your experience of this nostalgic model sailing. Dave
Hi Allan Sound like a good solid set up. The smaller prop will work much better with the brushless. I hear what you say re seawater, but I believe I would hose the model down after each sail just to be sure all the saltwater was removed. Looking forward to the video when you get the opportunity Cheers Dave
Hi Allan Glad to hear you have managed to get the boat running. Just so we know what is the final set up? I can see a 12v 7Ahr battery but What is the prop size & type, brushless motor, ESC. You have mentioned these before but may have bought different recently. Looks a good pool to use. As it is saltwater you will need to wash the model down after each sail and oil the propshaft. Salt crystals will destroy any bearings very quickly if you don't. Happy sailing Dave
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really. The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted. Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model. It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose. I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort Dave
Hi Inkoust I think we have already discounted an oil bath. Sorry but grease should never be used in any gearbox unless it is completely enclosed as any dirt or grit that gets into the grease will destroy both the bearings and gears. A light oiling before each sail will provide all the lubrication required. Dave
Hi The mould is looking good. Are the open cockpit sides sloping up from the floor to the top? I know you intend to use silicon and if this can be freed from the plaster support then removal should be OK. However if you can't I suspect removing the rear cockpit area may be difficult. Looking forward to seeing how you progress Dave
Hi Wayne Welcome to the club. I bought an identical Prusa based 3D printer last year. You may be able to hide the box but the machine is far from quiet and I doubt you will be able to muffle that unless you intend to work in a shed away from the house. You may well need to wear a hard hat!
Doug We don't know that it is a crystal problem. If what you say is true about cost then replacing with a 2.4 set is still worth considering. I do agree however that EU tarrifs make items we buy in Europe dearer than the rest of the world.
Hi Joe Did some more research and found a video on the Deluxe Site https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/15-pin-flow-applicator-5060243900456.html This really is a very fine nozzle dispenser and uses capillary action to deliver just the right amount of solvent to produce an invisible joint. They also recommend using for superglue accelerator by applying after the joint is closed to assist the setting process. Much neater way than brush or spray and will not result in marks on the surrounding area. For anyone building fine scale models a really good aid. Cheers Dave
Hi Steve I do believe onetenor was having problems using the URL addresses posted in this blog and elsewhere on the site. Advice on copying and pasting has been given in another post, and even better Stephen (Fireboat) is altering the website coding to allow automatic recognition of URLs so the problem will disappear. Hopefully the very useful links suggested will help you decide how to proceed with your boat. A build blog would be welcome. Good luck Dave
Hi John It's a two finger trick. Put the cursor at the start of the URL, press Ctrl key and hold whilst moving the cursor to the end of the URL. Release the Ctrl key. Press and hold the Ctrl key and the C key. Release both. Move the cursor to the address bar (I suggest you open a new page) and press and hold the CTRL key and the V key. Bingo you should have copied the URL. Hit enter and the web page should open. You can practice the copying and pasting anywhere so perhaps try it on the same page to see it working. Hope this helps Dave
Hi Joe I was intrigued so did a search. Aimed at the plastic kit market I suspect, but looks well made and will certainly deliver just the right amount of glue for those intricate jobs. Be useful to hear if anyone has used and if it is suitable for other types of glue Dave
You need to highlight the url and copy, then open a new window in your web browser and paste the url into the address space and click enter. The page should then open. if not check that you have copied all of the address and correct. It is best not to post personal emails on open forums. If you want to share your email its is safer to use a private message. Use the same procedure to copy and paste into your email address bar Cheers Dave
Hi Hughie It's possible then that the problem was pre the aerial cutting. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs but it is easier to suggest ways forward if all the basics have been covered. If the set was working some time in the past then I would check the crystals. If you can move any of the pins chances are it is broken. Over time crystals can deteriorate for no apparent reason as the internal crystal is encased in a glass vacuum and uses very fine wires for connectors. I appreciate you wish to keep the existing set but if you do have to buy crystals it may be worth considering a 2.4 combo set (Tx/Rx no servos) as the cost may not be much different and will work with your servos. Cheers Dave
Hi Hughie I am assuming the set was working before you cut the aerial? You did bare the wires and twist the copper wires together? If it was, have you changed anything else? Did you remove the crystals and are they in the correct place ie Tx in Tx? I have just repaired a 27Mhz set and the TX crystal had failed for no apparent reason. Replacing with another crystal fixed the problem. If you have or can borrow another set of crystals at the right frequency and type you can see if they work. Perhaps a local shop may be able to help without you having to buy? From your description the power is ok, the servo moves so is plugged in the correct way. You have used one of the channel sockets and not the battery socket for the servo? Let me know how you get on Cheers dave
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave
Just repaired a blown fogger unit, reversed battery. Used a Component Shop LM2557 switch mode converter unit running from 12v (max) and giving 1 amp at 24v, plenty for the fogger that requires 300Ma. I may add a small heatsink if the chip gets hot as the fogger has no off switch whilst on the water. There is a simple multiturn pot adjustment to set the required voltage. Fogger now working full pelt and as good as new.
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave
Hi Marky I have the Deans 4' glass fibre hull steam picket boat, uses either electric or a Miranda Twin oscillator steam plant. Mine is the gunboat version as against the Admirals barge, but all capital ships of the period have several picket boats so you have a wide choice. The bands on the funnel signified the boat number 2 bands, boat 2 etc. Good luck wth the builds Dave