Truly captures the look of the real model. The detail is very good and it is a credit to Paul that the model actually sails with all the cabin etc detail above the waterline, the sign of a real master of his craft.
Very realistic and nicely sailed model. The Solent Class were not fast afloat boats and had a max speed of about 9 knots so its nice to see a scale model sailing at a realistic speed. Well done and thanks for sharing the build and final on the water video
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.
Hi Brian For your purpose I doubt if you can find a solution that will deliver enough amps for the motor. You can buy 12v NiMh batteries which may be the easiest option if you do not want or require the performance provided by a LiPo which will only give you 11.1v (3s) or 14.8v (4s). https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft/108v-12v-p... If you do decide to change to LiPos I agree with Haverlock and you do need to read and research how to use and care for the battery.
There isn't Paul. The E Port club used to sail in the basins at the Boat Museum but this facility has, I believe, been withdrawn as well as the March Boat Show facility. The club was sailing at (I believe) the Vauxhall site in a temporary pond and there is talk of a March show at the former Hooton airfield site. Perhaps one of the club members could post details in the Model Boat Club Section, Please?
Hi smiggy I have a couple of these motors and they are good and mine run off a 1.5v battery (max3v). Planetary gears but relatively quiet at low revs (volts). Mine came from http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi and cost about £6 ea. Your link should be https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/gearmotors. Well worth a look. The stepper motors I have are 10x14mm (including the shaft) and are direct drive. I will be posting a thread soon showing more details Nice scale model Dave
I have a supply of sheet lead that I cut and use. Would look the same as the lead shot in your pic but you won't need much. I ballasted mine with all the gear in the hull before the deck was added, got it all working then fitted the deck etc. I left it slightly high on the waterline to allow for the top bits. Modern rc gear is now easily available in small form and even the batteries can be sourced in small sizes. I used AA pencells in the model and it sailed for well over an hour, The ESC had a BEC, my own design so shrink wrapped to keep the weight down.
Yes you can. It's small so not much room to get access and the rigging needs to be removeable. I have one that I converted almost 20 years ago and it sailed OK. Should be easier to fit out now as the rc gear, ESC and batteries are available in much smaller formats. Should fit well in your small pond, I don't really have anywhere safe to sail mine, hence the disrepaiur. I am attaching some photos of its present condition. Needs some restoration but hopefully shows what is possible. I used a small maxxon motor and a large brass prop over scale but it worked. The acess is via the removable cabin and the battery fits in a tray towards the front. The rx and esc fitted above the rudder servo. Have fun and please share your build.
Hi Les Yes I agree there is no way with the charger supplied you can do anything other than charge to full capacity. I do believe we have made suggestions on another thread on the site advising possible solutions. The cheapest would be to just buy a simple battery checker and make sure after you use the battery the voltage is around the 3.7-3.8v mark. Run a bit more to reduce and short charge to increase. If you are intending to become serious about modelling and using LiPos then, like most of us you will want to buy a charger that does the job for you automatically. There is a cost but if you protect your batteries they will last and save you money in the long term. I've not had much hair for some years so probably that's why!
Hi Les If you are happy with this connector and your other equipment uses this type I would leave well alone. If you do decide to change then I agree XT60 or Deans are common. Does mean you will need to change all the connectors on your equipment or get converters. Not sure I agree with keeping Lipos at above storage charge for any length of time. I have had several of mine balloon before I knew better and I was using them every week. I suspect high temperature may be a factor but that's just my opinion. I now make sure any batteries I have charged are used even for a short time just to drop them from full charge. I use the air boat on the bench. I do agree you should use a storage charge if you are unsure when you may use them again.
Hi seafarer You do need a four wire stepper motor driver. I used my Arduino as I have one. The pot varies the speed thro the Arduino so it can't be used on its own. I have some ic chips that can be used as drivers but I have not had time to program and develop so far. I have used geared dc motors but if in a quiet display area they can be noisy, which is why I intend to use this type of motor. I will do some more research and get back with possible alternative forms of electronic drives.
Hi Les It means what it says. Good to see a clearly marked battery for once. You can discharge at up to 20 times the capacity 1300x20= 26000Ma or 26amps It claims you can charge at 3 time capacity 3.9amps. Personally I never charge my Lipos at more than the rated capacity 1.3amps in your case. The battery capacity is 1300Mah has 3 cells (3S) and a nominal voltage of 11.1v (3.7v per cell) Each Lipo should be treated in accordance with its specs. A 2200mah battery may well have a different discharge rate. The dearer batteries usually have higher discharge capabilities. Charging should be done individually and again in accordance with its specs. Not sure why you are asking the final question but if you are thinking of using two batteries together they should have identical specs. Personally I would advise against this as you run the risk of damaging a battery if all the cells are not balanced, not to mention the risks involved both personal and material.
Hi John Glad to hear you have a working boat. The new wiring and ESCs have clearly removed any previous faults in the connection between the battery and the ESCs. It was a beautiful calm day at Boundary Park, Cheshire and I sailed my Perkassa so must have been a good day for fast patrol crafts.
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!
Hi Seafarer You can buy very small 4 wire stepper motors that will fit. I bought a ruck from China via E-Bay for a few pounds and they work fine. The smallest is less than the size of my little finger nail and I need my scope to see the wires which I sourced from Component Shop at Haydock Show. You do need a stepper motor driver and can control the speed down to single steps with a simple pot. I used an Arduino to test and the program is on the Arduino website. When I get time I might just do a blog showing how. Dave
Hi John Thanks for the pics. I see you are using Tamiya connectors. My experience is that they are unreliable and not suitable for currents above about 5amps. You appear to have the battery wired to both ESCs though one socket. As your problem occurs when both ESCs are connected I suspect the connectors are the culprits as they work then fail fairly quickly. Easily checked by using two separate batteries. If this is the problem I would hard wire the two ESCs to a chocolate screw block with just one socket for the battery. You might also want to consider a fuse in the positive wire to the battery. There are two switches, what are they switching and what type of switch? I can see the Y lead has one red wire taped up so assume power is from one of the ESCs? Where do you put the rx when the top is on? Hope you manage to move forward tomorrow. Dave
Hi Richard I suspect the prop fitted is too big for the motor. If the pond had lots of weed this will also have placed a heavy load on the motor. Ideally the prop should be a lesser diameter than the motor and preferably not too coarse a pitch. A 550 motor that you intend to fit should be fine. Do a quick run round the pond and bring into the bank to check the motor. If you can't touch without going ouch! its overloaded and you need a smaller prop. Mention has already been made about the batteries. The motor is rated at 7.2 volts so one battery is the correct voltage. If you connect two batteries in series I suspect you will see some more smoke. To help the model to come onto the plane it will help if the bulk of the ballast and weight is towards the rear. Hope this helps
This is sounding more and more like interference and low voltage. Can you post a few pics of your setup, showing all the wiring, motors, ESCs, Rx and battery. Are you using Tamiya connectors by any chance? Also are all your connections good - no green verdigris on any?
John From all the info I do not believe the answer lies with the ESC. When you run on the bench you are viewing both motors and they rotate in both directions as you move the Tx sticks to both extreems. When you run in the water you are viewing both motors and they rotate in one direction only as you move the Tx sticks to both extreems. Can you confirm this is the case, please.