All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
January 2018: 17 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 5 people
If we were associated with the RN then the ranking system would follow their system. We are modellers and it is quite wrong to compare service ranks with those used by the site. I do believe Stephen introduced the present system to help promote the site and encourage members to post blogs / pics etc.
Hi Steve The two models of your skimmer we have in our club both have two rudders. Others have built from scratch but all have moved to two rudders as this gives the best control. Our lake is large and perhaps on a smaller lake one rudder may be OK.
Hi Spitfire Glad to hear that you will be supporting the site's running costs. Stephen (Fireboat) runs this free site entirely on donations so every little bit helps. Doug has answered your question re wiring the brushless motor to the ESC. I would just add that you should not swop any wires whilst the battery is connected. I would also advise that you fit a fuse between the main battery and the ESCs. Brushless motors can draw very heavy currents when stalled or overloaded. A fuse rated just above your running current and no more than 50% of your ESC rating. I am assuming here that your wiring is capable of carrying this current? If you haven't got one I suggest you purchase a wattmeter so you can measure the current drawn under load (hold the boat in water and run at full wack). This must not be greater than the Motor or ESC rating. A smaller prop will reduce the current. Please keep us posted
Hi Spitfire This is one of your brushless ESC's. As you have indicated the wire is the red one with a brown wire and yellow wire either side and the black bit is the plug. If you turn it over you will see the tab that I suggested lifting to remove the red wire and tape to the brown and yellow wires. The BEC is contained within the ESC and if you do not disconnect one you will encounter all kinds of trouble. Keep asking the questions we have all been there and mistakes can be costly.
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's fibreglass, the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck
Hi Spitfire Yes you need to isolate one of the BEC supplies from the ESC (red wire). You can cut the wire but I prefer to remove the connector from the plug, you will find a small tab holds the connector in place and if you carefully lift this tab with a scalpel blade the connector will pull out of the plug and can be taped to the other leads. It will then be available for future use should you need a BEC supply. Good luck
Hi Eric Chinamen all celebrating Chinese New Year so shipping delayed until they return to work. My experience is expect 20 days against the more common 10 days. Could be longer if your order is high value an attracts HM Customs interest!😭
The plan seems to indicate weight in the keel, which is where you will need it. I suggest you put the model in your bath add the steel and see how the model floats. All the keel and an inch or so of the hull should be submerged with the weight battery and servos resting in the hull. Add or remove weight to get about right. I would cut a slot in the keel to add the weight as low as possible. The plan seems to suggest this. Seal temporarily and recheck for correct waterline. You could use cling film to seal whilst checking. When happy make good the keel and fit the servos etc and check again before fixing the deck.
I suggest you try to contact Shirley.Clynch@torfaen.gov.uk. The post is from last year but I do know from personal experience that several of my club members have been in similar situations and have benefited greatly from the experience. It's good to see that we have caring members who are prepared to help.
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.
Hi Doug Brushless melt when stalled if you are lucky. No fuse and high power battery usually results in the ESC also melting or a small fire that usually quickly spreads to the rest of the model. Not sure if I would go much above 25 amps on a 50 amp ESC, most are overated and will probably need watercooling at full capacity.
Just to update on the Technobots sound units. Alan Bond the original designer was selling under his Forge Electronics outlet. He has now, just passed on the future sales to www.scalewarship.com run by John Wills. John is in the process of adding the units to his on line shop and hopes to be able to supply in the near future. The units are very good and reliable and can produce very realistic sounds in line with motor speed. A separate 20 watt amp and 8" speaker on a baffle board works well for me in my Tugs.
Hi Welcome to the site. I suggest you buy a copy of the Model Boats Magazine to see what might appeal. You can then contact one of the advertisers to get more details. If you need a ready built model you can usually find one on e-bay or in a local auction. There are pitfalls and if you can find a local friendly Model Shop or Club they will guide you in the right direction. Good hunting
Looking at the specs ROXXY BL Outrunner 4240/10, 980rpm / Volt, 130g For electric sailers up to 4500g Scale and sport models up to approx. 2900g. If you have the 34" Fire Boat then this is too big. Mark suggested above a 3542/1000 and I agree. The smaller model is very light with a small transom and I found it has tendency to lean under the tork effect of the prop. Turning had to be slow and gentle to avoid capsize. This is not such a problem on the 48" version. Props should be no greater in diameter than the motor and should be chosen to keep well within the motor and ESC ratings. A wattmeter will help you check this and a good rule of thumb is to run at about half max current for best results.
Hi Ed ABS and wood can both be glued with Epoxy (two part) but white aliphatic wood glue will work just a well on wood to wood joints. Billings kits I have built in the past did tend to give advice on the glues to use. A light coat of sanding sealer works well for me. Make sure you coat both inside and out and support flat sheets to prevent warping. A Build Blog of your progress would be great! Good luck
Have to agree. In my experience all small boats ship water and a nice raised floor board helps keep you dry. Ron I guess we all have local traditions and sayings and it really isn't important what we do use as long as we understand. It appears to be a singularily Continental concept that we should all have to comply with their way. If your original Pram had boards then model them, if not follow the original design and keep true to scale.
Doug Whilst I agree the sound systems you have found are excellent, am I right in thinking they are designed for the model truck market? I am sure they can be modified. There are circuits in Practical Electronics and I am just waiting for someone else to produce a working design smaller than a large mobile phone. The best steam sound unit I found for my tugs of the IMARA era came from Technobots, coupled to a 20Watt amp and 8" speaker. Sadly they no longer supply the sound unit, but there are other suppliers. If I recall one of our members was involved and I suggest you visit http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php. If you are using two ESCs you really need two units but one amp and speaker would be OK You did suggest similar using pre-amp mixer, which would allow mixing of other sounds. On my lake you can hear this system from the middle of the lake 50 yds+ so I have an on/off switch if it causes nuisance!?!
Hi Doug and Eric If you want synchronized sound they will be synthesised. I bought an original Action sound unit for my Trent lifeboat as the sound was sampled on the Whitby Lifeboat which is the model I built. The sampled sounds are all available on a disk and you can easily reprogram to any sound you require. The latest offering can reproduce two motors which is good for twin props where the engines are often changing direction when manouvering. You do need a large solidly mounted speaker to deliver the deep engine notes. My Noisy thing works with any rx and both brushed and brushless ESCs. I suspect that they are designed to link into the Action ESCs which may explain the situation. We did have a discussion re the Action twin ESC some time ago and I did note that the two positive and negative connections had to be wired correctly or risk damaging the output stage. Whatever you choose the sound will greatly enhance the models prescence.
Hi Ron I forgot you build small models in balsa. My choice would be elastic bands 1/4" wide as used to hold the wings on model planes or similar. Protect the open bottom with a solid plank and wrap the bands all round every few inches. Get some scrap balsa and put between the band and hull planks, add just enough to hold the joint. Leave to dry then remove and get a box to keep your bands etc for next time. On larger models I have used luggage straps tied to length and packed with scrap wood. Very good for holding planks etc on hulls as the bands/straps can be made with the packing to give pressure in more than one direction at the same time.
Hi Steve Stick your motor on a temp ramp holder and connect up to the ESC. Get a selection of different sized props and pitches and fit one to the motor. Connect the battery via a Wattmeter and run the motor at full whack. Record the results Amps and watts. If either are above the motor or ESC ratings the prop is too big or too coarse pitch... Try with different props until you find one that is within ratings spec This is a very rough and ready method and the load will reduce when the model is in motion so will always be within spec. Once you have the size and pitch it really is a question of trying slightly different sizes and pitches to get the best for your model. Take great care when testing with air props, modern brushless motors pack a big punch and at full whack any contact with the blade is to be avoided. Dave
Hi Ron The latest method I have seen uses Neodium magnets. You use a flat sheet of steel as the base and triangular shaped pieces of 3/4 inch ply in which the magnets are sunk into and glued. The magnets come in various sizes but are very strong and do clamp well. For hull work you can use two magnets, one on each side of the part that needs holding. I used cocktail sticks to hold the planks on my schooner-you drill a small hole at each former and tap in a glued stick. Once dry you can sand flush. If you don't want anything to show make your own pins from a plank offcut. Happy New Year Dave