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    DavyJones
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    Member No.#1955
    RegisteredπŸ“…10th Oct 2012
    Last OnlineπŸ“…13th Mar 2018
    CityπŸ“North Somerset
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
    Gender♂️Male
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    PostsπŸ’¬4
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ ytgn6 part 2
    9 years ago by DavyJones ( Recruit)
    Flag
    We were casting lead to make fishing weights as kids and we're still here. Don't let the health & safety boys put you off!

    As with most things in life its about reducing risks and a little common sense goes a long way. Just remember you are playing with molten metal and take suitable precautions.

    Hear are some suggestions based on my experience (cock ups) casting metals of various types over the years.

    Most accidents are caused either during the melting, transport or pouring of the molten metal (or in the mould itself).

    1. Wear stout shoes, gloves & eye protection (and a jacket & long trousers) keep exposed skin to a minimum!
    2. Think what might go wrong (eg if you drop the container of molten metal). Do a dry run & clear any obstructions out of the way.
    3. Don't balance your crucible (ladle/saucepan) over a flame and then be surprised when it tips over and spills lead everywhere - make sure its supported and stable.
    4. Use a suitable container to hold the lead - make sure its strong enough - especially the handle attachment. A long handle is better than a short one Two handles are even better - more so as the amount (and therefore weight) of lead increases.
    5. Molten metal mould water = steam = bang.
    Make sure the mould is dry - Put it in the oven at 100 deg for at least an hour - if you're still not sure leave it a day & repeat! Plaster/clay/cement moulds take longer than you think to dry out so be patient as if you put them in the oven damp they will crack (or explode - this is still better than going bang when you are pouring the lead so don't skip this stage). I prefer MDF/wood moulds as they are simpler (and if you can't tell when these are wet you probably shouldn't be attempting this).
    6. Make sure the mould is stable and adequately supported - (remember you are adding weight)
    7. Don't stand directly over your mould when pouring and have it tilted mould slightly away from you - if the worst happens the lead will make a rapid exit. You will not have time to duck so make sure you are not going to be in its way before hand.

    Lastly if something goes wrong don't be a hero. Get out of the way and let the accident happen on its own - that way you will still be around to deal with the consequences (and face the music if you are daft enough to do this in the kitchen).

    If you follow these steps you will reduce the risks by 99%.

    By the way if you are thinking of using sand as a mould - Bake silver sand it until its bone dry and add engine oil as a binder - won't do complex shapes and stinks of burning oil but will produce simple castings quickly.

    Safe Building!

    build
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    πŸ’¬ Rudder post seal
    9 years ago by DavyJones ( Recruit)
    Flag
    Me again! I've ordered the plans from Chris and await their arrival - at the moment I'm thinking scratch build but was wondering what others thought about the merits of the fibreglass hull?

    - PS re the ballast I've seen lead shot used -secured by putting it in a plastic bag adding yacht varnish mixing and then pouring into the bilges.
    This chap has some good ideas - http://joliebrisemodels.co.uk/index.html
    http://joliebrisemodels.co.uk/index.html
    πŸ”—

    ballast
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    hull
    plans
    scratch
    yacht
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    scratch build
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    πŸ’¬ Lead Keel fitting
    9 years ago by DavyJones ( Recruit)
    Flag
    Thanks - and so it begins......

    keel
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    πŸ’¬ Lead Keel fitting
    9 years ago by DavyJones ( Recruit)
    Flag
    Dave,

    Where might a chap accquire a set of plans?

    Martyn

    plans
    keel
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    πŸ‘€ 14 Views


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