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Main Sheet Modification: Yachts of this nature, would be fitted with a Traveller, which would be used to help shape the Main Sail. Also, the route of the main sheet, has a lot of twists and turns to get out of the cabin and up to the Boom. Plus, it has to pass through the tube and bend at its edge. The starting point of the control would be from the cockpit, especially if it is a Single Handed yacht. The ideal place for the traveller, would be on the roof of the cabin. To keep physical disruption to a minimum, I decided to use the original boom running gear pulleys. The termination of the MainSheet would now be at the traveller on the cabin. 1. The cleat was removed from the cockpit, and the eye bolt was replaced by an S hook, screwed to the cockpit deck( see picture 1). 2. A hole was drilled in the cockpit, adjacent to the cabin hatch, and in a direct line with the main Sheet control system. This will allow the main Sheet to pass directly from the cleat. Through the pulley assembly (withought going round the pulley), and straight aft to the cockpit. 3. A brass tube was glued into the hole, flush with the cockpit surface and extending inside, towards the mainsheet control system (see pictures 1 and 2). 4. The Traveller was formed from a length of brass rod, (approx 300mm long), formed to the same curve as the cabin roof. Slide the pulley onto the rod so that it runs freely. Make a 90 degree bend at each end, the length of the traveller apart. These 2 legs will pass down into the cabin roof, leaving about 10 mm for the pulley to run from end to end. Plus about 10mm at each end of the rod, which will be bent up against the inside of the roof and glued. (see picture 3 & 4). 5. Mark the cabin roof where the traveller is to be mounted. I chose to mount the traveller directly under the boom pulley. I have made a revised sketch which is taken from the original plans for guidance. See picture 5. Note: make sure the pulley is mounted on the rod between the two bends. 6. Drill the holes in the cabin, pass the ends of the rod through the holes. I put a 10mm piece of wood under the traveller rod, next to the hole. This allows you to hold it securely, while you bend the rod out, on the inside of the cabin. Apply plent of glue or resin to secure it. Do the same at the other end of the rod, and leave to set. With the cockpit removed, and the mainsheet control system in place, take the free end of the main sheet and pass it through the new hole in the cockpit. The cockpit can be secured by the 4 locking pulleys. Now pass the mainsheet through the S hook and up to the boom. Adjust the S hook to suitable angle. When the yacht is rigged, the mainsheet is passed up to the end of the boom pulley, along the boom, over the pulley and down to the traveller pulley. With the tx/ex active, pull the mainsheet right in, and the trim set right out (this allows for final tightening).Secure the mainsheet to the eye of the pulley, ( I use a figure of 8 knot ). Now adjust the trim on the joystick to pull the main Sail tight. Finally, run the servo right out, and back in a few times, to make sure it works properly. Move the boat round so the wind cones from a different angle, and watch the traveller as the sail is pulled in and out. Now you are ready to sail. May your wake be long and straight. Ray 😎
Just for information. While I was browsing through the Yacht section of pictures, I came across another Smaragd yacht. The pictures were posted 2/3 yrs ago. I wonder if they are still active members, and have seen any of our chats and pages. It would be good to hear from them. Still looking through the many archived pictures. Best Regards Ray.
Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the nozzles fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet nozzle is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the nozzle opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the nozzle. During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
I bought the model boat kit new from Bournemouth Models in 1998. They were the main suppliers of Robbe models and parts in the U.K. at that time. It came in several boxes and a lot of room in the garden shed. It took some time to assemble all the separate pieces into their respective components. Then final assembly as per the manual and diagrams. Yes the hand rails were there at the beginning, and remained there for the first couple of years. With the standard jib and main sails, there was very little interference with the sheeting. The problems were with the transportation, as they are exposed on the edges. The stansions would catch on clothing while lifting and walking with the model.
With reference to the deck hand rails:- 1. With the model being so heavy and large, I found that transportation to the sailing venue, and the possibility of a reasonable walk from the parking area to the launch/waterside, that the handrails were the first items to suffer. 2. With the Mainsheet extending out over the railings, sometimes it would get snagged on one of the stansions. 3. The Genoa sheeting is really long and loose on the Lee side. It too could get snagged at times. I am looking at getting new stansions and looking at installing them again, but with the Genoa fully rigged and sheeting operational, to see how it can be installed securely and reduced risk of snagging.😱
Because of the size of the sheets, I went to "Office World" a local stationers, that have a copy and print section. They scanned the documents for me, and put them on a stick. I would suggest taking the files to them, and they can print them for you. Take a note of the sheets to be printed on the back of other, on A3. So you can assemble them in an A4 booklet. The page numbers on the left hand page is the sequence to use, as that is the first section of the book, assembly method. The later section is the parts lists etc.🤔 Ray
On the original kit, there were no portholes or windows. It was all done by transfers. Grey pieces of paper, slid onto the cabin sides. I cut the holes to the shape of the transfers. Then I planked the sides around the window frames, from deck to roof. Then I used some old cd cases, to cut and shape the window glass. It worked quit well. 👍
No worries Neil. I see you are working on a RAF Fire Tender at the moment. When you start on the Emerald (Smaragd), I will be here if you have any questions. I did post some pictures of my model recently, and am doing some maintenance myself. Hopefully I will be able to get her out on the water soon and get the Genoa up and in full sail. Yes, it would be good, if a few other owners of this model joined us.👍😎
Remember to print these pages double sided. Cover with Inside Cover on the back. Page 1 with Page 2 on the back. Page 3 with Page 4 on the back. Page 5 with Page 6 on the back. The Sailing map was in the middle of the book. The Genoa Document has all 3 pages within the file, and can be printed and assembled in the same way. Hope it all comes together. Ray
Neil I have all the documents scanned to pdf files. Could I post them on this web site, so anyone can download them. Are you able to get them printed. There are 4 full size A0 plans and two Construction Manuals. I Separated the English text, and reconstructed the pages, to be copied on A3, double sided, then put in order and Folded to make the A4 Manual.
Ahoy NPJ. I can copy them and send them to you. There are 4 plans, and they are full size A0. The full instruction manual is a booklet of A4 size. A separate instruction manual for the Genoa/Blister addition. It has some good points on how to manipulate and set the sails, even if you don't have them. I did use a higher while I was building the yacht, so there are marks on the text and diagrams. However, this does not hide or cover the text and diagrams, and you will be able to follow them. It will take a few days to copy, and get ready to post. Ray
A place to seek advise and help. Also, a place to join a chat and help and advise others about the problems you overcame. A good friendly place to find out what is going on around you and where you can join in. Remember, there is no such thing as a "Stupid Question". We have all had that moment. No one person has All the answers, but with all these members, someone will know the answer. 😁😜👍 May the Sun be Forever on your Face, and the Wind Forever on your Back. Love this Site.
Hi Doug. Yes, I plan to take some pictures/video and post them. Primarily, I was hoping to help NPJ with his request for original plans etc. I realise it was last October when he requested them. I have made some changes to the main sheet control, planking and windows on the Cabin and an auto bailout on the cockpit wells. He may be interested in those as well. I have not met any other owners of this Classic model. It would be good to meet up with other owners and get them Cruising across a reasonable sized stretch of water (Not Racing). I have sailed and raced Dingy's and Catamarans, and this model is as close the real thing as I have experienced, and a good trainer for anyone learning how to manipulate and set sails, as well as use of the rudder. Keep Upright 😁😎 Ray
[Score: 10/10] 55"/12000g Smaragd Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 120mins Powered by NiCad (9.6v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Futaba F-14 Marine TX/RX. Twin Stick operating Main Sail winch and Forsail winch. Reversing switch to reverse the Forsail winch when Tacking. ESC - Comments: 1:10 scale model of a "Round the World" ocean racing Yatch. I have the Genoa kit fitted and the Blister kit fitted. While sailing in rough weather, a certain amount of water built up in the cockpits, so I fitted an autobailer, to syphon it away without docking. The other modification is to the main Sail sheeting. Instead of the the main sheet coming up through the deck, and along the boom and fixed to the cleat in the cockpit! I ran the main sheet directly into the cockpit, across a pulley and up to the boom. Along the boom and down to a traveller mounted on the cabin roof. Allowing the main Sail to swing out, but stay taught, and then giving twist to the Sail when on a broad reach. See posted pictures.
Hi Guys. I have recently dug by Robbe Smaragd out off its hibernating spot in my shed, and presently cleaning and servicing all the running gear. It has been a few years since it developed a problem on the Genoa switch module, mounted inmy Futaba F-14 Marine transmitter. I also had a look round the web, for any like minded people, who I could chat with. I was so glad to come across this site and forum, so I have signed up as a member. I still have all the original documents and plans that came with the kit. If anyone would like to borrow them, or make copies. I have the full Genoa, and Blister kits fitted, and have had many years sailing Her. The model is perfectly balanced between sails and rudder, with only the slightest adjustment to the trim to keep her on a straight line tack. Not that I have raced her against one of the 1Meter racers, but I would say faster by a good margine over a standard triangular course. My kit was purchased and collected in the spring of 1998, it was launched the following year. The Genoa was fitted while I was working in Dublin, and sailed on a local lake at the hotel where I was staying. The Blister kit, was added about 2004. Frequent summers out on the local lake and Gloucester Dock with the local model club. I look forward to chatting and getting to know you. I am willing to answer any questions about this particular model. East RN