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"I wish I had never said anything or about Biro pretend deck planking Cheers Ian T" You weren't to know he was selling such crap! Are you sure it's the same guy you got yours from? I can't believe he was supplying first class drawings years ago and is now supplying rubbish. Why bother drawing (well trying to) around the frames etc. when you already have good drawings?
Yes, copyright is a real hornet's nest. I remember reading an article in Building magazine many years ago on the subject of copyright where one large housebuilder tried to take another to court because it had copied one of its designs. But because the defendant had slightly altered the design it got away with it. So for example if I put my Swordsman drawings on Ebay, which were based on the kit drawings, I shouldn't have any problem as I have made a number of alterations. I won't be of course as I've only drawn enough for me to build my model, they are not full working drawings and I'm not interested in doing that. Where that guy on Ebay is at fault is that he is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them - not that he has the wherewithal!
Don - that's basically what I did but went a stage further by tracing the top and side views on the PC and then producing the frames from them which is very accurate. DodgyGeezer - I'm in no way condoning what that guy on Ebay is doing but the problem with the copyright owner is that they are not making drawings available for all of the boats that they produced hence why the likes of that guy on Ebay are able to keep on selling albeit illegally.
Yes, I first started redrawing the frames by choosing the "best" side and then doing a mirror image but they are so poor even that didn't work as the angle and position of the stringers wasn't consistent from frame to frame.
Sorry a bit off the original topic but here's a picture of my Swordsman build underway, ready for skinning. I made quite a few modifications to the drawings because I wanted the aft cockpit version at a scale of 1:12 and added a spine and "fingers" to help with construction.
Don - Unfortunately I didn't see your post until after you had ordered, so too late to warn you and I may have been wrong as regards those particular plans. Unfortunately I wasn't. Jacko - I see what you mean but drawn and printed are all one sentence so I read it as both were to a high standard and that is what you would reasonably expect. Even if the draughtsmanship wasn't the best (and I can draw to a very high standard on the drawing board and PC) they should at least be accurate, which they are anything but. The guy's just a chancer. Modelboatdevil - the plans I got were for the Swordsman. There are some original Philip Connelly plans for the Swordsman on Ebay at the moment, though they are somewhat yellowed and creased! I've never seen an example of the Aerokits Swordsman or Veron Huntsman 28 kits. What size are you looking to build to? Chris
Hi Don - unfortunately I didn't look at them in detail for some time and it was too late to do anything about it. It was useful having the kit drawings though which are drawn well. Whilst redrawing I did modify the construction etc. so not a complete waste of time. Yes, the "drawn to a high standard" made me laugh, maybe if they had been done by a chimp! Lines were wavy and the frames weren't symmetrical and would be a nightmare to build from and someone even had the cheek to put the copyright symbol on them! Maybe the ones you bought will be better, but I doubt it. Chris
Hi Steve - yours is 1:12 then which is the scale I'm building all mine at. Yes, the building is the best bit (and the drawing in my case) as I doubt I will use them that much. Where did you get your bollards etc. from as I shall need to start getting those bits and pieces together. Chris
Let us know what the quality is like. I bought some plans for a Fairey and the quality of the drawings for the templates was appalling. Fortunately I was able to redraw them using the kit drawings for the plan and side view.
Good to see another Fairey. What size is your Huntsman? I'm busy scratch building three different Faireys at the moment and the Huntsman 31 will be a future project. I've got one of the Precedent 46" but it's too big and heavy really. Chris
Hi That boat will look great when it's finished. The hull of the Huntsman 31 is the sleekest of the lot. I'm looking to build an aft cabin version in the near future but at some point would like to build a Sport version. As per part 1, yes the scale of 1:11 is a bit strange, will have to ask Dave Milbourn how that came about.
I came across those clamps by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple. When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up! I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby. Chris
Smiffy - they're the ones. Agree about the bigger spring clamps, I struggle with some of the larger ones and I don't have arthritic hands! Some of that type can be a bit too strong for delicate joints as well, probably the smaller plastic G clamps would be better suited as light as well. I have to say we are pretty spoilt with all the types of clamps etc. that are available nowadays. Chris
You are absolutely right Doug but it was quite late with work (getting there, down to 3 days!) the next day and couldn't be ars@d to get the photo off my camera! But photos attached with other clamps pressed into action as well as only straight pieces of timber and not as much force required. I picked up those one-handed clamps from the International Model Boat Show and they are good as well but I only have two. Chris PS Is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?
I've got a number of spring type clamps and Bulldog clips etc. but having read that glued joints benefit from proper clamping I bought a number from Homebase which are of a scissor type which you apply pressure to to clamp and release via a lever. I've glued some timber bent to a curve, so under pressure and the joint is sound so happy with that. Will have to get some more! I'd already got some G clamps etc. of different sizes but I like these scissor type.
Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless outrunners which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris
Fortunately being a former architectural draughtsman I'd got all the drawing equipment that I need. You're bang on as regards clamps, I've just had to pop round to Homebase and get some more for my current build! You can never have too many! Chris
Hi Ron - I'm a newbie to building anything and so have recently gone through this. Whilst I have a good selection of DIY tools, some of which are useful, I've had to buy a few model orientated tools. Obviously not essential but they make modelling more enjoyable and easier. For working with ply etc. I've bought: Scroll saw - Record, very pleased with. PermaGrit sanding blocks and files - quite expensive but a joy to use. Razor saw - great for cutting out for stringers and slots etc. Selection of small files and screw drivers. Engineers squares - 50mm and 100mm. And most of the things Doug has listed! And if you are transferring drawings to ply wood a set of French curves are useful.
Boatshed - as regards the rudder the part in front of the spindle is to balance part of the force acting on the rudder and take some of the load off the servo or in the case of a full size boat off the wheel. If a boat is turning too sharply or experiencing "braking" then the rudder is either turning too much or it's too big.
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris