Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
October 2018: 5 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 9 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (7)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Members > ChrisF
Registered
10th Sep 2016
Last Online
21st Sep 2018
ChrisF

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 3875
Registered 10th Sep 2016
Last Online 21st Sep 2018
City Eborall Cl
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 42
Photos Posted 4
Likes Received 46
Likes Given 4
45 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Knightcote Model Boat Club
Since: 30th Mar 2018
Harbour
Empty Harbour
Sub-Lieutenant
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
3 points away from Lieutenant!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 0
Forum Post 2 84
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 0
Photos Response 3 0
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 0
Build Blog 20 0
Blog Post 5 0
Blog Response 3 9
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 4
Received Likes 2 92
197 Total Points
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
Fairey Hunsman renovation part 3 by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi That boat will look great when it's finished. The hull of the Huntsman 31 is the sleekest of the lot. I'm looking to build an aft cabin version in the near future but at some point would like to build a Sport version. As per part 1, yes the scale of 1:11 is a bit strange, will have to ask Dave Milbourn how that came about.

Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1 by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Canabus - I bet Dave had a fit when he saw the spelling of Fairy on those instructions!! Chris

Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1 by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
The hull of the 31 is much sleeker than that of the 28. By changing the superstructure you will have a Fairey Huntsman 31 Sport. Not many of these were sold as most 31's had the aft cabin.

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
I came across those clamps by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple. When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up! I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby. Chris

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Smiffy - they're the ones. Agree about the bigger spring clamps, I struggle with some of the larger ones and I don't have arthritic hands! Some of that type can be a bit too strong for delicate joints as well, probably the smaller plastic G clamps would be better suited as light as well. I have to say we are pretty spoilt with all the types of clamps etc. that are available nowadays. Chris

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
You are absolutely right Doug but it was quite late with work (getting there, down to 3 days!) the next day and couldn't be ars@d to get the photo off my camera! But photos attached with other clamps pressed into action as well as only straight pieces of timber and not as much force required. I picked up those one-handed clamps from the International Model Boat Show and they are good as well but I only have two. Chris PS Is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
I've got a number of spring type clamps and Bulldog clips etc. but having read that glued joints benefit from proper clamping I bought a number from Homebase which are of a scissor type which you apply pressure to to clamp and release via a lever. I've glued some timber bent to a curve, so under pressure and the joint is sound so happy with that. Will have to get some more! I'd already got some G clamps etc. of different sizes but I like these scissor type.

Huntsman 31 motor &prop advice please by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless outrunners which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Fortunately being a former architectural draughtsman I'd got all the drawing equipment that I need. You're bang on as regards clamps, I've just had to pop round to Homebase and get some more for my current build! You can never have too many! Chris

Just getting started by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi Ron - I'm a newbie to building anything and so have recently gone through this. Whilst I have a good selection of DIY tools, some of which are useful, I've had to buy a few model orientated tools. Obviously not essential but they make modelling more enjoyable and easier. For working with ply etc. I've bought: Scroll saw - Record, very pleased with. PermaGrit sanding blocks and files - quite expensive but a joy to use. Razor saw - great for cutting out for stringers and slots etc. Selection of small files and screw drivers. Engineers squares - 50mm and 100mm. And most of the things Doug has listed! And if you are transferring drawings to ply wood a set of French curves are useful.

Prop Shop by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
At least the business is up and running again even if not at the original premises and has been for sometime. I saw him on Monday when picking up some goodies for my various builds.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Simon Higgins at Protean Design does a large range of props and M5 is no problem. He used to be at Prop Shop.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Boatshed - as regards the rudder the part in front of the spindle is to balance part of the force acting on the rudder and take some of the load off the servo or in the case of a full size boat off the wheel. If a boat is turning too sharply or experiencing "braking" then the rudder is either turning too much or it's too big.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris

Richards 48" Swordsman by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi Richard - can't see how to find the video. Chris OK, found it now. Looks really good and the work is a credit to you. Not stupidly fast and turns well. Nice one. I see you are still calling it a Swordsman or is that how the link works?

1st build, templates by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
This thread makes no sense at all!

Building base boards. by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris

replacing propshaft by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
I should try it as it is first Richard. Prop shafts can be up to around 15 degrees, especially when they were installed for use with IC engines and they must have been alright then. Chris

replacing propshaft by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Doug makes a good point about the prop shaft angle with regards to the waterline. Having said that I reckon once on the plane the keel/bottom of the hull will be fairly parallel to the surface of the water so using the keel as reference in this type of boat is fine. Also if you start changing the angle you might have a larger hole in the hull which you have avoided so far! In addition you might have problems with mounting the motor lower down. Chris

replacing propshaft by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
What boat is it again Richard? As regards the prop shaft angle that is brilliant, the flatter the better. I aim to get around 12 degrees but you can go a little steeper. That's a handy tool you have there. Chris

motors by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
No, that's less powerful than in Pilot's opening post and like his suggestion is an inrunner motor. The consensus is that a 50 mm diameter outrunner ( the first part of the model No.) is what is required for a big boat like the Huntsman. The second part of the No. is the length of the motor. That size plus a kv figure of around 700 to 1000 will provide plenty of torque to get it moving and high enough revs to get it on the plane. Once you start getting a kv figure well over 1000 you start to get into higher revs which is useful for smaller batteries (e.g. 1000kv x 7.4v = 7400 rpm) which as said is good for fairly small, light, sports and race type boats. Conversely if you have quite a big displacement boat then you want quite a big motor but with a low kv figure as you don't generally want to tear along but want torque! Chris

motors by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
As Canabus suggests. I missed that one when I was looking - the one I saw was the 5045 660v. Either would do the job but the higher kv one would be a little better. Again as Canabus says the smaller high kv motors (well over 1000kv and therefore high revs) are more suitable for light very fast craft. Chris

motors by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Initial thought was again that it was still a little small. But I see that one of the reviewers uses one in a 48" boat using 6S and is happy with it.

motors by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
The 46" Huntsman is a big old beast and I'd be looking at something different. You want good speed but not manic. The one you mention is an inrunner brushless which doesn't have as much torque size for size as an outrunner. If it was me (and it will be at some stage as I have a 46" Huntsman with an MFA 850 brushed motor in it) I'd be looking for a 50 diameter outrunner around 700kv which will give plenty of torque. There is a Turnigy just under that which might do. I'm building a 33" Swordsman and am fitting an Overlander Tornado Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv outrunner. It is probably a little oversize but my thinking is that the motor will have an easy time, run cooler and the battery (4S) will last longer. If it is too fast I'll limit the throttle. Better to be too big than too small in my book. Overlander do a 5045/10 720kw which should be good on 4S which could always be increased to 6S if necessary. See what others say though. Chris

Sea Queen by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Sounds like the guy I bought Fairey plans off - the templates were very poorly traced and pretty much useless and as you say he even had the cheek to claim copyright! Copyright for what, there is no design involved on his behalf, what a joker!

Raboesch Prop Shaft by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Andy - I've recently bought a couple of Raboesch maintenance free prop shafts and they seem to turn OK. By the way I replied to your Huntress thread and have PM'd you. Chris

How many is to Many by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Good job I only got interested fairly recently and have other interests otherwise I'd be knocking on the door of too many! Over about 18 months I've bought a ready built Huntsman 31, Huntress and a sailing yacht (my only digression), a Spearfish II kit, recently started building a Swordsman 33 and about to start a Huntsman 28. Future plans are a smaller scale Huntsman 31 (existing one is too big for me at 46") and 2 or 3 other Faireys are at the idea stage. Chris

Prop Shaft Grease by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Yes, I've bought them for my first two builds and won't be using anything else. Chris

M5 Prop Shaft by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 months ago
True, but the internet does make it easy to find virtually everything that you want and you can compare alternatives and prices. A shop does give you the opportunity to look at the part (if they have it!) but often they will only have a choice of one. I think the internet is invaluable for parts and research and getting something delivered in a couple of days is brilliant. I'm 64 by the way.

Paper plans by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 months ago
Because if you didn't accept paper plans then for many models you wouldn't be able to get any and you wouldn't know about how they have been folded until you receive them! Most of my plans are on paper but it isn't a problem as I redraw them anyway and so accuracy isn't an issue and I tend to modify them. I like to have the plans for reference for building and it's just nice to have them.