I came across those clamps by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple. When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up! I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby. Chris
Smiffy - they're the ones. Agree about the bigger spring clamps, I struggle with some of the larger ones and I don't have arthritic hands! Some of that type can be a bit too strong for delicate joints as well, probably the smaller plastic G clamps would be better suited as light as well. I have to say we are pretty spoilt with all the types of clamps etc. that are available nowadays. Chris
You are absolutely right Doug but it was quite late with work (getting there, down to 3 days!) the next day and couldn't be ars@d to get the photo off my camera! But photos attached with other clamps pressed into action as well as only straight pieces of timber and not as much force required. I picked up those one-handed clamps from the International Model Boat Show and they are good as well but I only have two. Chris PS Is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?
I've got a number of spring type clamps and Bulldog clips etc. but having read that glued joints benefit from proper clamping I bought a number from Homebase which are of a scissor type which you apply pressure to to clamp and release via a lever. I've glued some timber bent to a curve, so under pressure and the joint is sound so happy with that. Will have to get some more! I'd already got some G clamps etc. of different sizes but I like these scissor type.
Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless outrunners which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris
Fortunately being a former architectural draughtsman I'd got all the drawing equipment that I need. You're bang on as regards clamps, I've just had to pop round to Homebase and get some more for my current build! You can never have too many! Chris
Hi Ron - I'm a newbie to building anything and so have recently gone through this. Whilst I have a good selection of DIY tools, some of which are useful, I've had to buy a few model orientated tools. Obviously not essential but they make modelling more enjoyable and easier. For working with ply etc. I've bought: Scroll saw - Record, very pleased with. PermaGrit sanding blocks and files - quite expensive but a joy to use. Razor saw - great for cutting out for stringers and slots etc. Selection of small files and screw drivers. Engineers squares - 50mm and 100mm. And most of the things Doug has listed! And if you are transferring drawings to ply wood a set of French curves are useful.
Boatshed - as regards the rudder the part in front of the spindle is to balance part of the force acting on the rudder and take some of the load off the servo or in the case of a full size boat off the wheel. If a boat is turning too sharply or experiencing "braking" then the rudder is either turning too much or it's too big.
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris
Hi Richard - can't see how to find the video. Chris OK, found it now. Looks really good and the work is a credit to you. Not stupidly fast and turns well. Nice one. I see you are still calling it a Swordsman or is that how the link works?
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris
Doug makes a good point about the prop shaft angle with regards to the waterline. Having said that I reckon once on the plane the keel/bottom of the hull will be fairly parallel to the surface of the water so using the keel as reference in this type of boat is fine. Also if you start changing the angle you might have a larger hole in the hull which you have avoided so far! In addition you might have problems with mounting the motor lower down. Chris
What boat is it again Richard? As regards the prop shaft angle that is brilliant, the flatter the better. I aim to get around 12 degrees but you can go a little steeper. That's a handy tool you have there. Chris
No, that's less powerful than in Pilot's opening post and like his suggestion is an inrunner motor. The consensus is that a 50 mm diameter outrunner ( the first part of the model No.) is what is required for a big boat like the Huntsman. The second part of the No. is the length of the motor. That size plus a kv figure of around 700 to 1000 will provide plenty of torque to get it moving and high enough revs to get it on the plane. Once you start getting a kv figure well over 1000 you start to get into higher revs which is useful for smaller batteries (e.g. 1000kv x 7.4v = 7400 rpm) which as said is good for fairly small, light, sports and race type boats. Conversely if you have quite a big displacement boat then you want quite a big motor but with a low kv figure as you don't generally want to tear along but want torque! Chris
As Canabus suggests. I missed that one when I was looking - the one I saw was the 5045 660v. Either would do the job but the higher kv one would be a little better. Again as Canabus says the smaller high kv motors (well over 1000kv and therefore high revs) are more suitable for light very fast craft. Chris
The 46" Huntsman is a big old beast and I'd be looking at something different. You want good speed but not manic. The one you mention is an inrunner brushless which doesn't have as much torque size for size as an outrunner. If it was me (and it will be at some stage as I have a 46" Huntsman with an MFA 850 brushed motor in it) I'd be looking for a 50 diameter outrunner around 700kv which will give plenty of torque. There is a Turnigy just under that which might do. I'm building a 33" Swordsman and am fitting an Overlander Tornado Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv outrunner. It is probably a little oversize but my thinking is that the motor will have an easy time, run cooler and the battery (4S) will last longer. If it is too fast I'll limit the throttle. Better to be too big than too small in my book. Overlander do a 5045/10 720kw which should be good on 4S which could always be increased to 6S if necessary. See what others say though. Chris
Sounds like the guy I bought Fairey plans off - the templates were very poorly traced and pretty much useless and as you say he even had the cheek to claim copyright! Copyright for what, there is no design involved on his behalf, what a joker!
Good job I only got interested fairly recently and have other interests otherwise I'd be knocking on the door of too many! Over about 18 months I've bought a ready built Huntsman 31, Huntress and a sailing yacht (my only digression), a Spearfish II kit, recently started building a Swordsman 33 and about to start a Huntsman 28. Future plans are a smaller scale Huntsman 31 (existing one is too big for me at 46") and 2 or 3 other Faireys are at the idea stage. Chris
True, but the internet does make it easy to find virtually everything that you want and you can compare alternatives and prices. A shop does give you the opportunity to look at the part (if they have it!) but often they will only have a choice of one. I think the internet is invaluable for parts and research and getting something delivered in a couple of days is brilliant. I'm 64 by the way.
Because if you didn't accept paper plans then for many models you wouldn't be able to get any and you wouldn't know about how they have been folded until you receive them! Most of my plans are on paper but it isn't a problem as I redraw them anyway and so accuracy isn't an issue and I tend to modify them. I like to have the plans for reference for building and it's just nice to have them.
Andy Being a Fairey Marine model fan you've got me intrigued. Are you drawing up your own plans from scratch? Unless you're a stickler for getting the details right the easiest way is as you say to move the rudder inboard and use the usual rudder tube. On the Huntress the external rudder assembly is pretty much hidden by the steps anyway. Chris
I agree that folding drawings is not good (apart from for easy posting) but what annoys me is the way they are folded which can stretch and distort the paper. I've folded hundreds, well probably thousands, of building drawings in my lifetime and it's not difficult to do properly, like folding a map. Better when they are supplied as PDF's and you can get them printed yourself.