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Boatshed - as regards the rudder the part in front of the spindle is to balance part of the force acting on the rudder and take some of the load off the servo or in the case of a full size boat off the wheel. If a boat is turning too sharply or experiencing "braking" then the rudder is either turning too much or it's too big.
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris
Hi Richard - can't see how to find the video. Chris OK, found it now. Looks really good and the work is a credit to you. Not stupidly fast and turns well. Nice one. I see you are still calling it a Swordsman or is that how the link works?
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris
Doug makes a good point about the prop shaft angle with regards to the waterline. Having said that I reckon once on the plane the keel/bottom of the hull will be fairly parallel to the surface of the water so using the keel as reference in this type of boat is fine. Also if you start changing the angle you might have a larger hole in the hull which you have avoided so far! In addition you might have problems with mounting the motor lower down. Chris
What boat is it again Richard? As regards the prop shaft angle that is brilliant, the flatter the better. I aim to get around 12 degrees but you can go a little steeper. That's a handy tool you have there. Chris
No, that's less powerful than in Pilot's opening post and like his suggestion is an inrunner motor. The consensus is that a 50 mm diameter outrunner ( the first part of the model No.) is what is required for a big boat like the Huntsman. The second part of the No. is the length of the motor. That size plus a kv figure of around 700 to 1000 will provide plenty of torque to get it moving and high enough revs to get it on the plane. Once you start getting a kv figure well over 1000 you start to get into higher revs which is useful for smaller batteries (e.g. 1000kv x 7.4v = 7400 rpm) which as said is good for fairly small, light, sports and race type boats. Conversely if you have quite a big displacement boat then you want quite a big motor but with a low kv figure as you don't generally want to tear along but want torque! Chris
As Canabus suggests. I missed that one when I was looking - the one I saw was the 5045 660v. Either would do the job but the higher kv one would be a little better. Again as Canabus says the smaller high kv motors (well over 1000kv and therefore high revs) are more suitable for light very fast craft. Chris
The 46" Huntsman is a big old beast and I'd be looking at something different. You want good speed but not manic. The one you mention is an inrunner brushless which doesn't have as much torque size for size as an outrunner. If it was me (and it will be at some stage as I have a 46" Huntsman with an MFA 850 brushed motor in it) I'd be looking for a 50 diameter outrunner around 700kv which will give plenty of torque. There is a Turnigy just under that which might do. I'm building a 33" Swordsman and am fitting an Overlander Tornado Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv outrunner. It is probably a little oversize but my thinking is that the motor will have an easy time, run cooler and the battery (4S) will last longer. If it is too fast I'll limit the throttle. Better to be too big than too small in my book. Overlander do a 5045/10 720kw which should be good on 4S which could always be increased to 6S if necessary. See what others say though. Chris
Sounds like the guy I bought Fairey plans off - the templates were very poorly traced and pretty much useless and as you say he even had the cheek to claim copyright! Copyright for what, there is no design involved on his behalf, what a joker!
Good job I only got interested fairly recently and have other interests otherwise I'd be knocking on the door of too many! Over about 18 months I've bought a ready built Huntsman 31, Huntress and a sailing yacht (my only digression), a Spearfish II kit, recently started building a Swordsman 33 and about to start a Huntsman 28. Future plans are a smaller scale Huntsman 31 (existing one is too big for me at 46") and 2 or 3 other Faireys are at the idea stage. Chris
True, but the internet does make it easy to find virtually everything that you want and you can compare alternatives and prices. A shop does give you the opportunity to look at the part (if they have it!) but often they will only have a choice of one. I think the internet is invaluable for parts and research and getting something delivered in a couple of days is brilliant. I'm 64 by the way.
Because if you didn't accept paper plans then for many models you wouldn't be able to get any and you wouldn't know about how they have been folded until you receive them! Most of my plans are on paper but it isn't a problem as I redraw them anyway and so accuracy isn't an issue and I tend to modify them. I like to have the plans for reference for building and it's just nice to have them.
Andy Being a Fairey Marine model fan you've got me intrigued. Are you drawing up your own plans from scratch? Unless you're a stickler for getting the details right the easiest way is as you say to move the rudder inboard and use the usual rudder tube. On the Huntress the external rudder assembly is pretty much hidden by the steps anyway. Chris
I agree that folding drawings is not good (apart from for easy posting) but what annoys me is the way they are folded which can stretch and distort the paper. I've folded hundreds, well probably thousands, of building drawings in my lifetime and it's not difficult to do properly, like folding a map. Better when they are supplied as PDF's and you can get them printed yourself.
I didn't want to faff about with lubrication with it often being hit and miss so have bought a Raboesch from Cornwall Boats. I've gone for the maintenance free with a ball-race at the motor end. As said lovely quality. Chris
Forgot to mention that the Record scroll saw has a 5 year guarantee which is very good. Also went yesterday and got the other bits and pieces I need and a bigger Permagrit for sanding the keel and chines to shape. As said was very good and some fantastic builds.
Yes it can be difficult deciding on a particular make/model. I found that when looking around the £100 mark that they all seem very similar and there looks to be some badge engineering going on. With my original budget I was disappointed to find that the DeWalt scroll saw isn't imported into this country for some reason as it gets very good reviews and I have a number of their tools amongst my DIY stuff. Meanwhile I have a big box in the car the contents of which I shall try out at the weekend.
Hi Glyn - I'm going on Friday as well to get the last of the materials I need for my Swordsman build. I've recently got around (at last!) to making space in a spare bedroom and have set up a worktop. I was going to buy a Proxxon scroll saw but it was the more expensive DS 460 one at over £300, but decided in the end that for the amount of use it's going to get and relatively thin timber/plywood to be cut that a cheaper one would do. After some research and reviews on YouTube etc. I decided on the Record 16V for £125 which I ordered from Machine Mart. Got the call today to say it's in so will pick up tomorrow. Is the Huntress the one featured in Model Boats? Chris
Yes, you can get a copy of the original drawings and model lines but you will still have to draw up all the bulkheads, keel etc. and decide on how you are going to construct the superstructure. Fine if you can do it, but if you just want to get on with building it, get the plans already available.
big-tone - even if the kits do have a plan, like most kits it will probably only have a top view and side elevation. There won't be any templates for the various parts. If I was you I'd get a copy of the 31" version and scale it up. Being as they are drawings for scratch building they have all the information required and you aren't having to enlarge them that much. Chris
Big Tone - what you have sounds like a Huntsman built from the Precedent kit. Plans are sometimes on EBay for the drawings for other kits but I've never seen any for the Precedent. But be wary of the EBay offerings - I've bought drawings and the templates have been very poorly traced/drawn and are almost useless and I've had to redraw them. But as regards the Precedent I have one, bought already built and done pretty well so if you want any photos let me know. Chris