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Model Boats Website Team
November 2018: 6 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 7 people
[Score: 5/10] 42" Blue peter 7 Twin Propellors (5 Blade 55mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Recently managed to purchase a stored non built secondhand kit, being a speedline model, should be a great build too
Our club recently held a sunset sailing session, its surprising how a cheap set of battery powered lights from a pound shop can add yet another world to r/c boat sailing, so why not have a go at your club too, great fun cheap to do and once finished, you can remove the lights ready for regular sailing.
Hope you don't mind a suggestion. Make the stand as a separate item, so you can slide the stand and boat out as one. Just glue some guides for the stand to the base so it cant move about, otherwise it means you will have to lift the boat up a fair way to overcome the height of the stand sides, risking damage to the masts and aerials. ;) Or make the roof panel of the box, slide same as the side panel, but you have to slide the side panel out first, so they interlock.
[Score: 5/10] 48" Shannon Class Lifeboat Capable of 13mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a water jet (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through turnigy (120Amps) ESC - Comments: Just bought this secondhand, needs a stripdown and better fuller rebuild. Unknown number or name yet, as original fullsize is yet to be put in to service in 2020, but want to be ready for when it does to attend the station hopefully.
Hi Dave.. The sound system will stay exactly where it is within the hull. When I designed the layout. I "pre formed" the cabin interior shell and made as a removeable unit when you lift the cabin off, so I already know everything is in the right place. Im still playing around with some seats, to see if I can convert to "mersey style", as the only ones i could get were for a Severn.
Do a search for "dolls house fittings" there are some superb miniature brass hinges readily available, all they need Is the odd strengthener added to suit. I looked at making my own hinges up from scratch, but with all the separate Items Involved, soldering them all together was going to be a nightmare as no sooner you fix one Item, the heat would melt the solder off It when attempting to add another piece.
UNFORTUNATELY, due to a problem with one of the recently Installed replacement valves, CRT are currently reducing the water level In Chasewater Lake to allow safe access to replace It. The valve Is not set to be replaced until Sep't 22nd, as It will take this long to reduce the water level sufficiently. It Is having to be lowered 1.5 mtrs BELOW Its normal summer LOW level. ALL clubs that had contacted us to say they were attending have been contacted and advised of our unfortunate late cancellation, but was due to a problem out of our control. We hope to reinstate again for 2015.
If the manufacturer of pressurised pain cans [or any other can for that matter] thought that heating the can by any means was a good Idea, they would do so on the label. Someone, somewhere will always take an Idea to the extreme, so you have to try to think of this eventuality, so when making suggestions, you have to think first and think safety for all concerned. Would you like to read In the press that someone had received severe facial burns from a paint can exploding? not trying to sound nasty, but yes the forum Is here to help and assist, but we have to consider peoples safety too at all times, and If a process Is not clearly logged, It can lead to ambiguity of Instruction and possible harm, which none of us want. So that's why I try to guide people to clarify these things, so no one does get hurt.
PLEASE be careful If following the suggestion of warming a pressurised pain container, If the water Is too hot, It can cause a sudden rise In pressure and the can explode! Kindly allow paint cans to warm gently to room temperature where possible. Andy K, please note that unless you state a specific temperature for the "hot water", someone could potentially use boiling water straight from a kettle with dangerous results, THINK SAFETY.
Saturday 6th September 2014, Chasewater Model Boat Club are holding their Annual Sailing Regatta. Our sailing area Is located within the SkI Club centre site and offers excellent sailing water and deep enough for 1mtr yachts too. On site cafe with hot and cold drinks, hot and cold food as well as a well stocked bar for those not driving of course! Event starts at 10am, gates open for setup at 9am. Any club Interested In coming along to join us, please contact me directly on (Email Removed - PM Only), so we can reserve space for your club.
I searched ebay and found a supplier who could do some nice hollow "D" shaped rubber tube, complete with adhesive tape on the flat side and to date It has not come adrift. PLEASE remember, If you want the boat to get anywhere near to Its scale cruising speed and "semI plane", KEEP THE BUILD LIGHT ! use plasticard to complete the missing upper cabin, not ply even, It weighs too much and watch out on fittings, the available white metal handrail stanchions are too soft and snap too easily, make your own from brass tube.
Thanks for your reply and comments. We all have to start somewhere and I'm still a beginner believe It or not, I've only been "in" to model boats now for 3 years so I still have a lot to learn, but If I can share my experiences, both good and bad, I feel Its only for the good of all and so everyone can learn too.
I found after some "trial" that the ORIGINAL plastic prop suited the motor better. I did try a specialist one from prop shop and It actually ran slower, albeit same diameter, but with bigger pitch. Sometimes you cant beat what the factory supply!
If you check the google map attached to the original post, It will give you clear details for direction to the Chasewater Park site. You are more than welcome to come along and look, but unfortunately, not being a member of any club, you would not be able to sail your boats due to lack of liability Insurance.
Chasewater MBC will be trying for a THIRD time to arrange an RNLI SOS event, the previous 2 being cancelled due to heavy snow and Ice. We hope to start the event at 12.30pm on SATURDAY 1st JUNE 2013. held at our clubs boating pool next door to the Inovation centre and FREE main car park. Chasewater Country park, Brownhills nr Cannock, Staff's. ALL r/c Lifeboats more than welcome to come along and help us raise money for the RNLI. Sorry, but no I/c powered boats allowed due to wildlife restrictions.
the main reason for the "antI fouling" paint [and Its colour] was because the baot It was applied to was stationed In sea water and moored In the water. Any boat either returned to slipway or trailer was painted white as It was not necessary for the hull to retain antI fouling paint as the boat was not kept In water. It all depends on your specific boat and where It Is/was stationed. If Its a slipway station , then It keeps the white hull.
If you prefer It to steer a near straight course, then, YES ! one motor should be running opposite to the other, so fit opposing turn props. If you don't, you could end up with a lot of torque steer. A 6ft long boat Is going to take some powering, whats the max rpm on the motors? and what voltage batteries are you considering.
All depends on how deep your wallet Is as to how complicated you decide to build, plus would you realistically need such a high rotation of prop movement on a model boat? Sometimes simple Is more longer lasting than expense. A lot can be achieved with kort nozzles and a bow thruster In model boats, both very reliable Items with little maintenance In service.
From looking at some details of these "logan cutters", they seem to be more orientated toward paper and card, maybe they "might" take plastic, but very thin plastic. Anything over 15thou and you might be struggling to make anything other than a scratch on. these types of cutters, their blades soon loose their sharp edge, so It can work out very costly In blade replacement. For long strips, Its just as easy to use a longer metal straight edge or rule. Simply use a couple of fast clamps on either end of the straight edge to hold all In place. For "sections" you should really be cutting with a toothed blade, rather than scoring with a knife edge, having to try and force a knife blade through a plastic section often leads to bending or deformation of the plastic section and you dont achieve a square cut through, It ends up with a rounded edge which either needs filing or re carving to clean up, so use a fine toothed saw for section. I use a small joinery jig, as used for picture frame material, Its light, small and suits plastic sections and allows your saw blade to cut vertically with ease, with no risk of "wandering" The only thing I find Irritating about having to change the blade In my knife, Is. thats when I usually cut myself !! Anytime after that and I dont get even a scratch, but just those first few hours working with a new blade.......[ha ha].
A knife you can easily change blades on. the sharper the blade, the easier It Is to cut, but remember to only make "light" score marks, over and over each other. A single heavy cut can either suddenly drift off to one side or worse still, cause Injury. If you need small [ish] round Items, use a compass cutter, and again, several light cut passes gets better results.
EVENT CANCELLED ! 😭 YET AGAIN THE WEATHER HAS SEEN FIT TO FORCE CANCELLATION. SNOW HAS FALLEN AND CONTINUES TO FALL IN THE AREA. THE ROADS MAY BE OK, BUT THE FOOTPATHS ARE UNTREATED/NOT CLEARED AND THE WEATHER IS NOT SOMETHING I WOULD EXPECT ANYONE TO STAND OUT IN FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. CMBC EXPRESS THEIR APPOLOGIES, BUT BEYOND OUR CONTROL. 😟
I presume you are talking about the Inside edges of the hull, where you are going to bond the wooden reinforcing strips to., rather than the deck edge. Be careful not too take too much out, leave some "rough area" as It will help with the bonding of the 2 surfaces, make It to smooth and one slight knock against a bank and they might seperate.
The motors have 4 threaded holes In the front face of the motor casing. I happily run mine on 14.8v and are quite happy to drive a 50mm diameter 4 blade prop for about an hour before the batteries need changing. The motors are hardly warm, so additional cooling Is not really necessary In my own situation. But why would you need to run 24volts? Thats a lot of voltage/battery weight. Is this a necessity? Why cant you run at a lower battery voltage and also save on battery weight too.
Would a screen washer pump provide enough pressure to force water In to a sealed pressure tank? Somehow I doubt the theory. Id try It out In the bath first before putting anywhere near a sub. This way you wont need to worry about the switch wiring till the ballast system works properly. You may need to fit a geared pump motor to get over the pressure effect, or It will simply flip the rubber paddles Inside the pump element and stop the pump from working once It reaches a certain pressure, same happens If a washer system blocks on a car.