Members Harbour
4 Photos
1 Like
Dutch Towing Barge MKII
This barge will be more or less the same as the MKI but I have increased the scale, it only 100mm longer but the increase in scale allows me to install the motor inside the craft. As you can see by the photo's I have included decking, amazing what you can do with coffee/tea stirrers.
Paul33
4 years ago
6 Attributes
11 Photos
5 Likes
Dutch Towing Barge
This is probably my favourite 3D printed boat. Files are from Thingiverse and by "Tinkerman".As the inside of the hull is very shallow, I was unable to install a conventional drive. After much deliberation I decided to use a bow thruster. I purchased the smallest I could get (12mm) and hung it underneath, it works really well.
The original barge nowadays acts as a tourist attraction and has been somewhat adapted to be used to show people around the canals, the old city of Coevorden and former peat grounds of the Northern provinces of The Netherlands. Originally it was an almost empty hull (see original pictures) that was filled up with cargo, mostly peat, and that had some benches to transport people as well. Extract from Tinkermans write up. See photo's of original.
Paul33
4 years ago
0 Attributes
7 Photos
3 Likes
1/16th scale landing craft
This design is intended for a 1/16th scale tank, I have a 1/16th tank and It fits perfectly. The LCM3 craft was origianly designed by m-bergman 1:200 LCM 3, scaled to 1:16 and made wider for fitting a 1:16 Tiger I.by Torben Vandborg. I dropped my craft so hense new components being printed (green)
Paul33
4 years ago
9 Attributes
8 Photos
3 Likes
All my 3D Printed boats, at present.
All the boats I have printed today and in various form of completion. All printing (stl) files from Thingyverse.
Paul33
4 years ago
0 Attributes
6 Photos
2 Likes
3d Printed Work Boat
I have been printing boats from 2016 when I purchased my first printer. I have three work boats of differs sizes, two of which were for friends. The only issue I have with the boat is that it tends to roll. It has plenty of ballast, is very manoeuvrable. With the 3d printed prop it has plenty of umph. Still to be finished/fitted out.
Paul33
4 years ago
0 Attributes
Members Blogs
1 Post
3 Followers
6 Likes
Help with understanding 3D Printing, highs and lows.
Hi all,
hopefully this will be an ongoing blog about how to achieve printing results from a 3d printer. I'll make it clear that although I have been printing for 5 years, I'm no expert. But in that time I have printed hundreds of items and almost none have been right first time. I have used countless 1Kg reels of filament and tested my patients on many occasions. Failures come in many forms ie: running out of filament during a print, nozzle blocking, print coming unstuck/not sticking from the bed and causing a massive birds nest and a gooey mess of filament around the nozzle. The best one is, the dreaded power cut after 20 hours of printing an object, yes its happened to me many times.
I find 3d printing a great hobby and the things you can print is almost limitless. There are companies around the world 3d printing houses, replacement body components etc. Commercially with the right printing setup you could virtually 3d print anything.
The first main thing to undertake is spend a lot of YouTube time following the guru's sites like Makers Muse, Teaching Tech, CG Geek there are many to look at, by the way look at Naomi 'SexyCyborg' Wu she's a very talented and qualified lady.
Before you buy any machine, check the reviews and the forums, that a good place to get the feel about a printer.
Regarding cost, get what you can afford. I have had four printers, three of which I still use and the fourth (which cost just under Β£800) has been dismantled and all the components are used for spares. The printer was a dual printer i.e. can print two colours. An educated guess is that I attempted to print in excess of 100 two colour objects with a 95% failure rate.In the end I just used one nozzle with reasonable success. The main problem was that the dual nozzles had to be perfectly level, and to achieve that was extremely difficult.
There are many makes of printer out there, most of which are clones of the "i3 design". The big daddy of the diy 3d printer is a guy from CZ called Josef Prusa, if you what a good machine at a affordable top end price buy a Prusa, I wish I had.
One thing that all 3d printers have in common is the firmware (the brains of the machine). As far as I can see, all firmware is "open source" and free to download. Most manufacturers use open source firmware that suits them and tweak it to suit their machine. For those that are not aware what open source software is, its software that is developed by very clever geeks around the world for free!! Github website is the place to go.
Printers will not print without the firmware as it will not print without Slicing software. Slicing software is in my opinion the most important part of the 3d printing cycle. More of that another time.
Filament can be mostly purchased in 500g or 1Kg spools @ 1.75mm thickness. Each 1Kg spool has a length of 300m, I have seen comments about the filament snapping this can be very annoying. Filament is not supposed to be very flexible and if bent it will snap, you can buy flexible filament but that is a different ball game. If like me, my garage is my workshop and in a bid to protect my tools, boat printers and other equipment during winter I have a back ground heater running, this also protects my filament from becoming to brittle and snapping even easier. Always keep spools of filament in the plastic bags and cardboard boxes along with the silica gel pouch when spools are not in use. Failing to do this will reduce the shelf life of the filament. Try to refrain from buying cheap filament. I use a lower to mid range priced filament from Technology Outlet called Premium PLA Plus currently about Β£20 inc VAT per 1Kg spool. Since I started using PLA Plus the quality of my prints have considerably inproved. Also try to resist buying filaments like ABS, PETG and the myriad of other types until you are sure you can deal with them.
Anyway that's enough for now, 3d printing is a big subject. Hopefully I will do my next contribution on the very important slicing software subject.
Cheers
Paul33
Paul33
4 years ago
Recent Posts
π¬ Re: Help with understanding 3D Printing, highs and lows.
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi Fireboat,
I know your reluctant to add a heated bed, but my personal view is it will greatly assist in adhesion issues.
One thing that causes a lot of problems is nozzle height. By trial and error keep lowering the height adjustment by very small amounts till you get better adhesion.
Next a level bed is critical, here is a link to a STL file that is designed to see how accurate your print bed is.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4175093 |
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ve |
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Help with understanding 3D Printing, highs and lows.
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi mturpin013,
I totally agree 3d printing will never replace the achievable quality of a scratch built item. But I do think 3d printing has a place. I'am currently building a CNC router with a plywood structure and 3d printed components all because I can then make things from wood. Just something you can make with the help of a 3d Printer, follow link.
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Help with understanding 3D Printing, highs and lows.
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi Steve, Firstly a Boot Loader is used as an interface between your computer and your machine. As mentioned in my Intro Blog nearly all firmware used on diy cnc machines (3d printers are cnc machines) use open source firmware, as such, there are a multitude of variations of each firmware. Each having their own followers. My recommendation is to stay with the version supplied by the manufacturer, until such times as you feel confident to try another version by someone else.
I think I'm correct in saying your machines firmware is based on "Marlin". When you turn on your machine it usually shows the firmware installed, also check the "About" file on the display to double check. Write down the details and go to the "Creality.com" home web page and check downloads for your machine. It should show you the latest firmware available for your machine, I had a quick check and the latest update was on the 14/08/20. It's some time since I used the Cura slicing software, I think Creality recommend it for use with their machines. Possibly under a dropdown tab i.e. help, configuration or the like a heading which will transfer the new firmware upgrade for your machine.
I hope this was helpful. Cheers Paul
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π Help with understanding 3D Printing, highs and lows.
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi all,
hopefully this will be an ongoing blog about how to achieve printing results from a 3d printer. I'll make it clear that although I have been printing for 5 years, I'm no expert. But in that time I have printed hundreds of items and almost none have been right first time. I have used countless 1Kg reels of filament and tested my patients on many occasions. Failures come in many forms ie: running out of filament during a print, nozzle blocking, print coming unstuck/not sticking from the bed and causing a massive birds nest and a gooey mess of filament around the nozzle. The best one is, the dreaded power cut after 20 hours of printing an object, yes its happened to me many times.
I find 3d printing a great hobby and the things you can print is almost limitless. There are companies around the world 3d printing houses, replacement body components etc. Commercially with the right printing setup you could virtually 3d print anything.
The first main thing to undertake is spend a lot of YouTube time following the guru's sites like Makers Muse, Teaching Tech, CG Geek there are many to look at, by the way look at Naomi 'SexyCyborg' Wu she's a very talented and qualified lady.
Before you buy any machine, check the reviews and the forums, that a good place to get the feel about a printer.
Regarding cost, get what you can afford. I have had four printers, three of which I still use and the fourth (which cost just under Β£800) has been dismantled and all the components are used for spares. The printer was a dual printer i.e. can print two colours. An educated guess is that I attempted to print in excess of 100 two colour objects with a 95% failure rate.In the end I just used one nozzle with reasonable success. The main problem was that the dual nozzles had to be perfectly level, and to achieve that was extremely difficult.
There are many makes of printer out there, most of which are clones of the "i3 design". The big daddy of the diy 3d printer is a guy from CZ called Josef Prusa, if you what a good machine at a affordable top end price buy a Prusa, I wish I had.
One thing that all 3d printers have in common is the firmware (the brains of the machine). As far as I can see, all firmware is "open source" and free to download. Most manufacturers use open source firmware that suits them and tweak it to suit their machine. For those that are not aware what open source software is, its software that is developed by very clever geeks around the world for free!! Github website is the place to go.
Printers will not print without the firmware as it will not print without Slicing software. Slicing software is in my opinion the most important part of the 3d printing cycle. More of that another time.
Filament can be mostly purchased in 500g or 1Kg spools @ 1.75mm thickness. Each 1Kg spool has a length of 300m, I have seen comments about the filament snapping this can be very annoying. Filament is not supposed to be very flexible and if bent it will snap, you can buy flexible filament but that is a different ball game. If like me, my garage is my workshop and in a bid to protect my tools, boat printers and other equipment during winter I have a back ground heater running, this also protects my filament from becoming to brittle and snapping even easier. Always keep spools of filament in the plastic bags and cardboard boxes along with the silica gel pouch when spools are not in use. Failing to do this will reduce the shelf life of the filament. Try to refrain from buying cheap filament. I use a lower to mid range priced filament from Technology Outlet called Premium PLA Plus currently about Β£20 inc VAT per 1Kg spool. Since I started using PLA Plus the quality of my prints have considerably inproved. Also try to resist buying filaments like ABS, PETG and the myriad of other types until you are sure you can deal with them.
Anyway that's enough for now, 3d printing is a big subject. Hopefully I will do my next contribution on the very important slicing software subject.
Cheers
Paul33ππ
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Dutch Towing Barge
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
The printer had a 200 x 200 print bed and will print to 180mm high. The part had to be cut with the software to manageable sections.
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Dutch Towing Barge
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
3d printing is not for everybody, unless they are prepared to spend countless hours trying to workout the slicing software and everything else. 3d printing looks easy until you start printing your own or downloaded files. Or constantly trying to level the print bed, set the nozzle height or trying to work out why your filament hasn't stuck this print when it did last time. I purchased my first printer in 2015 and a further 3 since then, the most expensive one (twin filament printer) turned out to be a waste of money. Countless hours and attempts were made to print dual colours with only one marginal success. I finally dismantled it a few months ago and will use the parts on other projects.
So your concern is that 3d printers will take over model boat building, I think that will not happen because I secretly believe there are hundreds of 3d printers gathering dust in garages and workshops all over and I would not like to existing methods disappear. Me, I spent my whole working life resolving technical and innovation problems so 3d printers are a challenge. For every item I have printed I would say 3 have been binned. As example, recently my 12 year old granddaughter asked me to print her a dragon necklace (from the Game of Thrones),of course I said.The final print took 12 hours plus 6 hours cleaning it up, plus 36 hours of printing failures.Unless you buy a commercial printer or a very top end diy one the success rate is not great. Perhaps if there's interest I could do some kind of blog on 3d printing. cheers Paul
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: 3d Printed Work Boat
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi Martin,
I printed a work boat for a friend at our club, on reflection he put bilge keels on his. I think I'll do it to mine, thanks for the tip.
Cheers Paul
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Dutch Towing Barge
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi Martin,
the bow thruster is static and steered by the rudder. The problem with a moving bow thruster for me would be waterproofing. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers Paulπ
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π Dutch Towing Barge MKII
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π Dutch Towing Barge
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π 1/16th scale landing craft
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π All my 3D Printed boats, at present.
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π 3d Printed Work Boat
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π FrSky X9d+se 24 channel radio recv
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi, try Painless360 on YouTube. The has many videos on the FrSky x9d and could be very useful for you.
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π Arduino and model boats - zero to hero the easy way!!
4 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
As requested a simple yesπ
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π¬ Re: Offshore meeting 2019 , Hamburg Germany
5 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Amazing workmanship, pleasure to view and very envious.
π
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
π Conversion of Sea Queen hull to Navy Launch
9 years ago by
π¬π§ Paul33 (
Master Seaman)
Flag
Hi, has anybody used the hull from an Aerokits Sea Queen plan to build a navy type launch. I've just started cutting out all the hull components via a plan and not a kit, and will soon start assembly.
The problem I have is the more I see pictures and side elevations the more the cabin top is loosing its charm with me. So any alterations I need to make will need to be done soon.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Cheers
▲
β©β©
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received