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December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, shortnozzle and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.
I just recieved a big package today containing the remains and the hull of this Fairplay V. The included paperwork included a A3 sized scan of the original plan. But this plan only shows partnumbers instead of measurements. Indicated on these original plans are a 60mm diameter propellor, and the Marx Monoperm Super Special (what a name!) with reduction 3:1 in it. A choice which seems undersized to me compared to the (same era & comparable size) Bugsier Tug from Graupner which has a Decaperm. For the moment I tend to go for this 12V low Rpm Xdrive 555. It has 25Nm of torque and doesn't need reduction. And combined to a Raboesch propshaft - which one can easily shorten - will help to get the driveline as far aft as possible in the boat, leaving more room for a bigger battery.(Or have the possibility to trim the boat with the battery and have the battery as deep as possible in the boat.) I'll check these mentioned forums too, thank you for the advise.
That's the sort of information is was looking for! Thank you very much! I have three motors from which I would like to choose one for the Fairplay V tug (30" long, 9" wide, about 3 Kgs displacement): -Graupner Speed 500E 12V / 12.000Rpm / 0.4A -Monoperm Super 6V / 5.000Rpm, / 0.20A -Motraxx XDRIVE 555-1 12V / 5.900Rpm / 0.25A (The 500E would be run on 6V) I have a Robbe Rookie Navy speedcontroller (6-12V) max 35 A. And haven't bought a (lead)battery yet. Which one would be best?
[Score: 5/10] 26" Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) Single Propellor (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and soundmodule with speaker. It's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'.
Yes, it should. I do not know the Proboat Westward 18 in detail, but have gained quite some experience on many other sailing models. I do own a Micro Magic, which rig can be fully tuned to perfection. The Graupner downhaul for instance can also be bought seperatly.(and could be a good upgrade to the vang on your boat.) This pic shows one - altough the boom has been mounted upside down.
[Score: 5/10] 43" Graupner Rubin - Comments: This is one of my two Graupner Rubin yachts. The Rubin is - to me - the all time queen of RC semi scale yachts. Detailed, impressive dimensions, fast, very rare and barely affordable. When new I wasn't able to pay for such a model, but as one gets older... Anyway, after finishing some others my attention will go to these two. Why having two of the same models? They are very rare, and I was just in the opportunity to buy another. The first one - shown here - needs a thorough rebuild, and the second one is an almost untouched new model!
[Score: 5/10] 50" Robbe Diana a vintage M-class yacht - Comments: The largest yacht I own, and also the oldest! This meanwhile vintage M-class yacht is undergoing some minor updates to get her back in shape. What's new is all below deck: new rudder servo and winch with 2.4 GHz Spektrum reciever. She'll sail within two weeks; I'll add some proper photo's under sail by that time! (The last pic is showing a sistership)
Hi AllenA, LOL! I think you're referring to my post "Local Boatshow" in the Boat Harbour section. Doesn't matter. Happy to read that I'm perfectly fine! I'm just new here and have no idea how active this forum is. I happened to stumble over this forum while searching RC boat photo's on the web, and thought: Well why not drop a question here. (not knowing at that time that I would spend half the afternoon posting pics of my own fleet...and I haven't even finished yet...) Back on topic: I'm curious to see what advise I get over here regarding the Fairplay V. I might even keep up a build blog over here. I like the classic - almost yacht like - sheerline and superstructure. And this model is compared to the Banckert, Bugsier, Kalle or Torben tugs slightly wider and heavier; which will give this tug just a bit bigger wavepattern...
[Score: 5/10] 30"/3300g Hegi / Revell / Wedico Fairplay V Single Propellor (4 Blade 55mm) Geared to a Marx electro motor with reduction gear (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Recently towed this little gem from the Fleabay... I added a few photo's of already build models.(by others) The goal is to have this tug ready for the 2018 season...
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: The second Skandia(red); the first one(blue) I 'did' wasn't mine. I was asked to overhaul it for a friend. I was happy to do that for him and did it for free if I was allowed to sail it for one season... Which got me into this radiosailing... Meanwhile his boat is back in for a second overhaul because it was damaged during his moves. This red Skandia was mine. But sold not long ago because I came across another unstarted NOS kit of this yacht. Haven't started building yet, so pics of the last Skandia will have to wait.
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: A real vintage yacht, this oldie dates back to the early seventies. Still in original configuration but will get modern hardware, 0.1mm x 19 stays and new wooden booms for head and mainsail. The rest will stay 'untouched'. (except for the railing which was way to big for being correct to scale; in fact they looked like footballgoals on deck!)
[Score: 5/10] 21" MicroMagic - Comments: Build this Micro Magic in 2006 - the newer Racing version was announced but still not available at that time - and raced her the two following seasons. Updated many things like sails and spars etc. Still enjoy her each summer: Where ever I go I'll bring her with me! I even sailed her on top of the Alps! (Freezing my fingers off!) But the Italian Lakes, the Swiss Lakes, the Mediterranean Sea, the Bodensee or just locally the Markermeer (southern part of IJsselmeer) are all familiar waters for this tiny sailboat.
[Score: 5/10] 39" Seawind - Comments: Build this Seawind in the mid nineties, and as you can see sailing in the salty conditions in coastal waters can easily kill an unprotected reciever... (nowadays equipped with an extra Spektrum 2.4Ghz reciever - like all my boats so switching models is easy) This boat has also 19 x 0.1mm stays instead of the standard stuff.
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2300g Robbe Sirius RS32 - Comments: I bought this kit as a ARTS kit, but immidiately threw out the 40Mhz transmitter, keel and supplied stays. I updated her with a 2.4Ghz Spekrtum transmitter, gave het 0.1mm x 19 new stays(standing rigging) and equipped her with a deeper keel in carbon with a hightech - like an modern TP52 yacht - shaped lead torpedo. Stockmaritime had some upgrading parts available at the time I build her. I also replaced the steel rod connecting the rudderlinkage to the sero by a carbon rod. Te only upgrade which still has to be carried out is replacing all the aluminium spars for EXEL cruise 8 carbon spars. All modifications help to increase uprting moment and upwind performance. The boat really sails very good, altough the mainsaillead could benefit from a upgrade as well. (it has jsut a bit too much resistance and the material has a too small diameter resulting in extra wear on the mainsheet.) This sailboat is the the fith sailing boat I build, after starting with an overhaul on a friend's vintage Robbe Skandia yacht.(which got me hooked on RC sailing) After that rebuild I've build the Comtesse(Robbe), Seawind(Kyosho), MicroMagic(Graupner) and then this yacht. Since this build my collection of sailing models grew with addition of a Saudade (Hegi/Revell), Diana (vintage M-class by Robbe), two Rubins (semi scale admirals cup yacht from Graupner) and a Robbe Skandia for myself...
I recently bought a on Ebay 'stranded' vintage harbourtug which will be fully rebuild. (I actually bought a NOS hull, and old - but good build - superstructure and all the deckgear & fittings. Except for some essential parts... There's no kortnozzle/rudder and propellor. I would like to know what size of nozzle and propdiameter I should mount. Originally it was designed with a steering nozzle/rudder, but the only item which comes close is the fixed nozzle as used on the Robbe Happy Hunter salvage tug model.(which has twin nozzles) That nozzle would be fixed with a seperate rudder for steering. What would you advise? What alternatives are available? (Making a proper nozzle myself which actually works and looks to scale is out of the question.) Attached three photos: one showing original (steering nozzle) and teh other with this Happy Hunter fixed nozzle, and te drawing showing the design.