Thats great and I promise to behave with it!
Yes, the others are far more complicated.
Good Night and thanks again.
Rowen

Thanks Nerys,
Will be opening very carefully and inspecting.
Been reading of your trials and tribulations.
Good luck and Best Wishes.
Rowen

Thanks Doug,
That should keep me out of trouble for a while!
Appreciate your help, as usual
Rowen

Have just ordered a Bofors gun from Deans. Was surprised about the handling charge, but accepted it.
Have not dealt with them for years. Was disappointed in an earlier purchase.
Am not that bothered about the handling, if the quality is good. Will post my impressions in due course.

Thanks Doug,
Will await the balance in due course.
Think right now am OK for the other items. Have decided to build my Dark as a gunboat, so do not need torpedo tubes for it.
Have ordered a 40mm bofors kit form Deans and am apprehesive aboiut the quaility having seen to comments on this site.
Will describe my experiences once the package is recived.
Thanks again Rowen

Hi Doug,
That looks spot-on.
Hate to have you scan night or post it at this stage. Toradog is going to scan and send the information he has. It might be enough.
If it is not as comprehesive as yours, can we then see what is the best approach?
Can you get a copy as hate to take your only one?
Best Regards
Rowen

Thanks John,
It might well be. Toradog has the book and as am now aware here are two versions, have sent details so hope he can identify the correct one.
Lets see how he gets on before you go down the same path.
Hate to have two people doing the same thing at the same time!
Thanks for your help
Rowen

Since I raised this topic have had much vaulable information sent, thanks all for helping.
One item I am stuck with is the 4.5" cannon mounted on the foredeck though.
Every search ends up at a standard RN 4.5" gun similar to ones used on larger vessels. Cannot finding anything on the 4.5" cannon.
Have been advise the John Lambert "Allied Coastal Forces Vol 1" contains drawings, but the book is not available through my library and it is expensive.
Does anybody have any drawings of this cannon or even a copy of the book and can send scans of the drawings?
Thanks,
Rowen

Interesting. The ones I bought are watercooled, so there is no heating issue.
They do not look as substauntial as the Turnigy but they do work well.
Fitted three into my Brave Borderer and have no issues at all.
Good luck anyway with them.

The next problem was both Turnigy ESCs burnt out! Not simultaneously, but in quick succession. Have no idea why. They were well protected by fuses and generously sized for the motors and screws.
Anyway, HobbyKing refunded the purchase. Obtained two more ESCs, but this time from Banggood. Had several premature Turnigy failures last year; time to try something else.
The Banggood ones worked straight out of the box. They do not require programming and operate simply in Fwds or reverse; no beeps, punch mode, throttle setting or other complications.
Just as well as my Turnigy ESC programming card had, by now, also failed!
These ESCs are basic and do not have a low voltage alarm or cut-off. When using LI-Po batteries it is essential one be added to protect LiPo cells from inadvertent full discharge damage.
Once these ESCs were installed was immediately impressed at the improvement in control. They could be fully modulated from the Tx lever. The Turnigy ones were much coarser and the hull could not be safely docked, it can now.
The drivetrain trials and tribulations were resolved, the model sailed well throughout several runs. It is not as fast as the Brave Borderer, but with only two screws it is lighter and easier to control. It also planes easily.
Although the original vessel had twin screws that rotated in the same direction, decided to cheat and install contra-rotating screws. Experience with the Brave B. steering shows it is sensitive and felt this might make the model more predictable and also reduce any “digging in” tendency on turns.
Quite enjoy running a bare hull as it is not susceptible to minor damage. All marks can be cleaned off during the build programme.
Parked the model for the onset of the winter, when will complete it. The pictures show the final tests in Hamilton Harbour.

I seem to have been able to get back to the start but also have the Build as a document. Problem is you need both the Build doc and the pictures on the blog to get the full story.
If there is any particular area you are interested in let me know and can see what I have.
Unfortunately have been through a couple of computers since the story started and hope everything transferred properly.
Rowen

Garth, Got some 3/4” high black lettering left over from my pilot boat.
You are welcome to enough for both sides of your model.
If you are in the Ancaster area you can pick it up
Rowen

Garth,
Doubt the ESC set-up is why you have the tank steering. Probably more to do with either the Tx or the Rx / ESC set up.
Let me have a shufti when we next get down to Leander, think it can be easily solved.
Rowen

Look good, would have been useful six months ago! Think have gleaned most of the details now from other drawings or the web.
Rowen

These were the Turnigy 3520 1700kv type. Never took any pictures as the repair is quite simple.
The water comes up the wiring holes and is thrown out by the outrunner body rotation.

The is a good video on U tube of somebody actually dismantling a motor to effect a repair.
Others just use silicone, whch is what I did. It works fine.
Advised HK, but never bothered to claim as the repair was simple and cheap.

Have always used a pump, possibly redundant as a scoop might work just as well.
With a pump have no concerns with the cooling. Only a cheap fish tank one, costs about 7$.
Rowen

Should have added , good luck with build

The shaft is fully enclosed in a brass tube. There is another brass sleeve that allows the prop shaft tube to slide into the hull. Find this simplifies the shaft alignment. My Brave Borderer blog explains the rational.
The prop bracket is a home made sleeve where the shaft is soldered in and at the open end is a small top hat nylon bush.
Props are from Cornwall Model boats and are Raboesch 162 style.
Think you are wise to go with single prop. The triple arrangement is complex!

Purchased, about this time last year, a glass fibre hull from MTBHulls. Have used their products before and been very pleased with them. Prefer to use GF hulls on these faster models are they are so robust.
Proceeded through the Spring and Summer to fit the twin-screw brushless drivetrain, so it could be thoroughly tested before the deck was installed. Have found, through bitter experience, this is the easiest way to commission a brushless motor installation. It allows much better access to adjust or replace components. My caution proved well founded!
Obviously, running on open water without a deck runs the risk of the model filling and sinking. To address this, fitted inside the hull old plastic water bottles and some air-filled sealed plastic bags usually used for protecting fragile shipments. Had earlier calculated the buoyancy given by these items, so it did exceed the hull weight.
On the first runs, found the Turnigy water cooled brushless motors leaked water heavily. Possibly exacerbated by the pump circulated water-cooling system. This is evidently a well-known problem and even described on YouTube!
Fortunately, easily cured by applying sealant to the area around where the wires emerge. Access was too limited to do this in situ, so removal and bench repair was the easiest approach
To be continued

I have found very few books on the R.A.F. Marine branch. The one you quote is perhaps the best.
The other one I enjoyed, although it is more of an auto-biography, is "Boat in the Blue" by W.D. Pereira.
Not very long but I enjoyed it.
Rowen

All very true.
Very rarely can all that you want be in stock at HK.
Been trying to place a mixed order for months and as soon as something comes into stock something else is sold out.
Suppose could order as individual items, but shipping has now become expensive.
Have started to use Banggood, much better inventory and they ship to a centre in bulk in Canada and then distribute. Quicker and cheaper.

Works fine and looks great. That planking is very attractive. Pity to paint over it!
Rowen

Hi Roger,
Doubt a raw Doncaster is any rawer that a cold and snowy Ancaster! Been inside all day catching up on unfinished boat projects.
I think you will find going to Brushless and LI-Po is well worth the trouble when building fast launches.
The power density is much better than anything else and brushless do convert it into noise and speed quite well!
Once you get closer to the project drop me a line and can give the benefit of the lessons I have learnt.
Should be worth a round of drinks next time we can get to Yorkshire!
Take care and good luck
Rowen
ce o. The power

Decided to build a model of an RAF Rescue and Target Towing launch (RTTL) as my next project.
Spent much of the winter and Covid lockdown period working on this 1:24 scale model. As the build closely follows my earlier Brave Borderer project, will only describe significant differences or areas of interest.
The original vessel was designed and built by Vosper in the U.K. for the Royal Air Force in the early 1950s.This Mk 2 RTTL version, was eventually powered by 2 x Rolls-Royce Sea Griffon engines (the Griffon, although a similar style engine to the Merlin, was not a development of it).
The one I chose to model was 2762E. This originally had an aluminium plated hull and was built for experimental purposes to evaluate this feature. The “E” in the pennant number depicts “Experimental”. The R.A.F then realized it already had a 2762 vessel, one captured from the Germans! She was renumbered as 2772E.
In service it was found the aluminium sheathing corroded quickly in the salt water. She was then resheathed in double planked mahogany, just like her sisters. The pennant number then also became plain 2772.
In the original guise this hull was both lighter and had a smoother surface finish than usual, so was capable of over 50 knots. The standard vessel topped out at around 47 knots.
Planned to use a glass fibre hull. The smoother surface of GF would more closely replicate this particular vessel and would thus give an ideal opportunity to capture a unique period in her life. Also wanted to capture a version with the low engine room hatch, although 2772 was later converted to the raised glazed version.

Hope so. We would find it interesting.
Will be posting Episode 1 of mine on RTTL 2762E shortly.

Have long admired those pictures, your model is a work of art! The propeller story is interesting. I watched a video on Utube of one and decided to cheat and fit contrarotating screws to mine. Had experienced very sensitive steering on my Brave Borderer and thought that might help reduce it.

Thanks Doug. Will try to live up to your standards!
Rowen

Definitely Sea Lion. The Sabre was a H 24 Cyl designed for aircraft use.

Guess if he was there should be more accurate.
Doubt you would forget where your boat sank out from under you!
Rowen

My aircraft background shows through! Was Napier Sea Lion not Sabre

Had read somewhere she was in transit from Gibraltar to Blightly.