Hi Roger,
You are learning well! A similar road to the one I travelled a couple of years ago.
Hard to see the fuse block on my Brave now, but here is one am assembling for my next project. Got my fuse blocks off Banggood, they offer both 4 and 6 fuse ones.
Used a 6 on the Brave as wanted a fuse per motor, currently using 30 A capacity. Should protect the 50 A ESCs. Bigger fuses and even re-settable ones can be fitted into the block if warranted.
The home made buss bar and battery connector are visible.
Hope this helps.
Rowen
100C should be more that adequate, mine is 30C. You should be able to drive a welder with it too!

Hi Roger,
That looks better! A little higher out of the water and goes well.
Tried to see how you had the motors wired up and what type of motor, but cannot recall a blog.
Anyway, check mine, there are several remarks on this very issue.
Wired each motor and ESC individually and then ended up at 40A with a glass tube style fuse in each circuit. Could still blow the occasional fuse.
Used the individual wiring concept as wanted to retain as much redundancy as possible in the event of a fuse/ESC or motor failure. Lake Ontario is quite large!
Was recommended to use auto blade fuses and am currently using 30A on each circuit. Seems to have fixed the problem.
Want to test fully but cannot get back on the water yet as under a lockdown order.
If you are trying to use one fuse to control more that one motor would imagine to chances of a fuse failure would be high.
Whatever the motor/ESC combination it takes similar power for similar performance. The centre screw video shows a plane much as mine.
Good luck,
Rowen

Thanks Doug,
Next sea trials delayed as we are now in the midst of a “stay home order”. Rather pointless as boat activities are outdoors, but why would common sense influence politicians?
One day - Inshallah!
All well otherwise, hope things are with you and yours
Rowen

That is an idea!
Have recently begun a migration of glass tube style fuses to the Auto spade type.
Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors.
Rather than use the in-line holders, 4 or 6 fuse holder blocks are readily available on Banggood or E Bay.

Sorry, JBKIWI suggested the charger.

Hi Roger,
Does look a little low, but grand nevertheless!
The bigger issue is a lack of power to lift her onto a plane.
There are a number of comments from our electrical gurus with some great suggestions on how to tackle this.
I would not hesitate to use LI-POs (suggest 3S as that is what is in mine).
If they are looked after and used per recommendations nothing compares for power/weight.
You will require a good balance charger and see Doug has suggested one. I bought one of those recently (with the integral mains adapter) and am very pleased with it.
Rowen

Should have explained, these are outrunner motors and used them because of the higher torque.
Have also used air cooled outrunner brushless motors and never experienced overheating. They are slightly noisier, as expected.
Toying with a future build of about 17”length of a RN Scimitar FTB. It will require 2 small motors, has anybody any experience of any light, outrunner brushless of this type of size? Weight will be an issue so air cooled is anticipated.

Looks great Garth. Should be room in the bath for you both!
Rowen

Tried her yesterday for the first "shake down" before her maiden voyage. That is why there is no mast or other accessories, removed to avoid breakage.
Model runs 2 x Turnigy 3520 1700kv brushless, watercooled outrunner motors with 3 S LiPo power.
She is rather overweight, but there is more than enough power to comfortably plane.
Being twin screw easily controlled, did not detect any "dig-in" tendancies.
Had to curtail the runs due to a water leak from a coolant hose. Model is 34" long

Imagine the scale layout is for triple screws.
Did this with my Brave Borderer, for which there is a blog. Would not recommend that though for a new modeller.
A single screw will work, but brings sensitive handling issues. Not insurmountable, but it is the simplest installation.
Am finishing off a 34" long R.A.F RTTL withe twin screws. Powered by two brushless 37 kv motors and 35mm brass screws.
A test run recently showed great, stable performance. A more complex layout, but worth the trouble. Particulary as your earlier steps look so good.
Drop me a personal note and will dig out the specs if you decide to do that.
Rowen

Been using LiPos for about 4 years and have standardized my fleet on them.
They have the best current density of all cells and seem to work well. The weight of lead-acid cells is too much for the smaller, faster electric models anyway.
So, if you are going to venture into the more "advanced" battery world, might as well go the whole hog.
Have heard stories of fires and other mishaps. I follow the charging and storage recommendations religiously and so far have never been concerned.
Usually charge at a max. rate of 1 A or lower, which is way under the max allowable. Always use a bag or steel ammunition box and never leave unattended.
So far, have worked for me.🤞

Recall that Quicrun make both brushed and brushless ESCs. You will need a motor of the same style.
The easy way to check is are there two or three motor wires? Two is brushed and three brushless.

The tendancy to dig one side of the hull in on turns is caused by the propeller rotation as it pushes water against the turned rudder surface.
It is particulary apparent on single screw installations as twins are usually contrarotating and counter each other.

Although my Brave Borderer is triple screw it will do the same. Perhaps rather less noticably because the outer screws tend to even and damp the forces out.

Not sure there is much you can do about it, I just reduce the centre screw rpm on RH turns.

Ballasting the hull might help reduce skittishness. Would have guessed that model is typically around 6/7lbs weight. Never a problem for me as my models tend to be overweight anyway!

Note there are some suggestions to fix this electronically. Am sure they will work.
As a simple Mechanical Engineer, could you use a couple of small springs in the linkage to protect the tabs?
Very interesting build and enjoying reading about it.
Rowen

Hi Roger, good to see you back.
The lines of both the RTTL Mk 11 and the Brave Borderer are similar, after all they were both Vosper products.
As I built the RTTL often noticed how much the hulls looked the same.
The big advantage of the RTTL Mk 2 is they were eventually all twin screw, unlike the Brave. This is a major saving on complexity, cost, weight and general aggravation. I think it a very doable project.
If you decide to go further, can send the RTTL General arrangement drawings.
Can you send a note with your E mail address please? Think already have it but want to be sure.
Cheers
Rowen

Until the ice melts on Lake Ontario, cannot submit any pictures of the maiden voyage. Weather is improving, hopefully not too long now.
In the meantime, here is the finished model, still on the bench. Will post sailing pictures in due course.

It is! Also easier to sand when smooth though.
Have toyed with making another RTTL with double diagonal planking, just like the original. Perhaps one day!
Rowen

Fred,
If you can send me a private message with your E mail address, can send you the plans.
Build this model some years ago as the Beagle and wrote a blog too.
Rowen

Using 2762 E. This was the original aluminium hull so felt, as the GF surface would be smooth, it would replicate this vessel more closely.
I did simplify the aerial arrangement to try to make it less vulnerable to damage. Found on another vessel that everytime an aerial was reattached the repair became more obvious.

Went there once some years ago, fascinating museam.
As an Engineer was enthralled by the Napier Sabre and Bristol Centarus engine cutaways. Marvels of complexity!
The launches were stored outside and were deteriorating, there was a story about them going inside. Perhaps that has been done.

It could have changed and some pictures are quite deceptive. On some there appears to be a vertical centre shaft that might have rotated the radar.
I based my interpretation on various pictures of 2753, 2752, 2757 and 2762/72.
Will admit that I did simplfy the antennas as often find they are very fragile and break off when the model is sailed.
Anyway, I am not changing it!
Too many hours of fiddly work to contemplate another set of changes.
Thanks for your endorsement of my efforts, always appreciated.
Best
Rowen

Hi Doug , Quite deceptive but it is a tripod mast. Examined several photos that confirm it
Rowen

The making and fitting of the deck, planking and cabin all followed established procedures and went smoothly. The only major challenge was the mast.
The picture of 2757 shows the last surviving RTTL (in original form) on display outside the R.A.F. museum near London. It illustrates the unusually complex mast. Ruminated long on how best to build it.
Had an unusual stroke of genius and made up a small wooden stand to the same dimensions as the base fittings of the mast. The developing mast structure could then be easily gyrated through various angles and dangles to gain access for soldering the main brass structure and fitting the styrene sections that make up the interstitial members.
This approach has the added attraction of making the mast as a single unit, which can be made readily detachable. Transport and storage become so much easier. The original mast could be collapsed, but the bracketry to do that looked difficult to reproduce successfully at small scale without machining resources.
To make the mast detachable, made up a clevis bracket under each mast leg on the cabin roof. The clevis mates with a hole at the end of the mast legs. Fitted a tapered pin into the clevis through the hole to hold the mast, along with a “keeper” bracket to ensure the pin remains in place.
The mast contains a radar scanner and the mast lights. To disconnect the wiring easily, fitted a servo style connector plug at the mast base. By disconnecting this plug and removing the pins the mast can be easily removed. Not quite as original, however, a good use of modelers “license”. The original wiring ran up the starboard mast leg, so copied it. My wiring is slightly more obvious, but is considerably simpler and much easier to service than passing it though a mast leg.
Decided to feed the electrical power to the superstructure by using springs on the hull mating with brass plates on the underside of the superstructure. The spring & plates conduct the current. Using this idea allows removal of the superstructure without disconnecting wires.
This works nicely on an installation with relatively few circuits. The main RC controlled on/off switch is the hull. The secondary circuits in the superstructure are controlled by small switches, so can select the radar and /or lights as desired.

Hi Jonathan,
Looked all over for them, no trace.
We have had some Internet troubles so lets wait until tomorrow and see what turns up. Will let you know
Thanks again for your help.
Rowen

Have done that several times and it is quite satisfying.
Prefer to use GF though for the faster boats as it is more robust.
Keep in touch as an interested in how you get along.
What Powertrain have you chosen and what batteries?
Rowen

Hi Bruce, that is interesting and reassuring!
Once bought a Deans product and was not entirely satisfied. Sounds as if this will be better, wil know in about a week when it arrives.
I could not find a kit for the 4.5" Cannon fitted to some Darks. Do not confuse with the usual 4.5" gun fitted to larger vessels. Very different.
RN in Munich sent some scans and am working on it. Not difficult if you break it down into sections. Am making it from bits of scrap so appeals to my Yorkshire Heritage!
Assume you are building a 1: 24 Dark, where did you get your hull or are you building from scratch?
I have ordered one from MTBHulls but think they are closed due to a lock-down.

Looks good Garth.
Tidy up your workbench but only for the next project!
Rowen

John,
Thanks for your help. RN in Munich has just sent me a bunch of drawings so think I am well served.
Thanks again,
Rowen

Thats great and I promise to behave with it!
Yes, the others are far more complicated.
Good Night and thanks again.
Rowen

Thanks Nerys,
Will be opening very carefully and inspecting.
Been reading of your trials and tribulations.
Good luck and Best Wishes.
Rowen