Hope it works for you, did initially for me too.
Now using stuff from Banggood and that seems to work.
Got five in service and they all seem OK.
Good Luck, hope you let us know how things work out.
Rowen

Hi Mike,
Glad you have the problem resolved.
What type of ESC did you finally use?
Rowen

Thanks Mike,
Been watching this with interest as have another Turnigy ESC (HK) that has done the same.
Unfortunately, it is out of warranty so have now binned it. Previously fitted another 50A from Banggood which works fine.
In fairness to HK, they have always settled my claims quickly and fairly.

Blog # 28

Used the Brave many times this summer and have made some significant upgrades.
The original Turnigy (Hobbyking) ESCs both burned out - the smell still lingers beneath the deck! Both were rated at 30A and were protected by 30 A fuses, exceeding the measured maximum current draw.

Have now had too many Turnigy ESC issues, so decided to replace the penultimate failure with an inexpensive Banggood water cooled ESC of the same rating. It had been previously purchased for another project.
After several frustrating hours trying to program it through a series of beeps got it to work as desired.
Was amazed at the difference! This ESC provides good low speed modulation and control throughout the motor speed range.

The second Turnigy ESC then failed, so immediately replaced it with a similar Banggood one – this also works fine!
Have used the model with these new ESCs for many hours and am pleased with their performance.

One of my friends has a GPS speed tracker, so could measure how fast the model actually goes. The max scale speed only equates to 37 knots - well below the 50 + a Brave could achieve! Nevertheless it still planes easily and looks great.

As the low speed control is so vastly improved, decided to replace the centre shaft brushed motor with an inrunner brushless purchased earlier. This should improve performance, perhaps even achieve the scale 50 knots!
The drivetrain layout would also replicate the actual vessel, where the wing engines can be used for manoeuvring and the centre to supplement them in higher speed situations.

Bought and fitted another Banggood ESC, to this same spec. However, this one came preprogrammed with usable default settings, no beeps to decipher!
Works fine and the performance has increased markedly; will get around to measuring it one day, maybe in the Spring as the weather has turned noticeably colder.

Sorry to hear of that Mike.
I have only had two Turnigy failures under the warranty period and they gave a credit quickly. I am dealing wih the New York office and have usually found them easy to work with.
Have had several failures out of warranty and just accepted them. Recently started using ESCs supplied through Banggood. The five have tried so far work well and are relatively inexpensive.
Food for thought.
Rowen

One quick question. When you reset the values do you press the OK button on the card?
Once you do a musical note should be emitted from the ESC indicating the value has been reset.

Hi Doug
Nothing, would have been a good project.
Just got interested in the Brave and other launches
Rowen

Very nice build. Almost built one too a few years ago.
From my research the hull is essentially a rivitted Liberty ship, but with more a more typical British superstructure and holds layout.
Power was the steam reciprocating layout as used in the Liberty.

Your Brave is coming on nicely
Rowen

Hi Mike and Doug, was unable to research this much earlier.
That Shark ESC looks very much like two I bought from Banggood under a different name.
They work quite well, but are programmed using beeps and tones.
Found that virtually impossible and, after struggling for hours, fortuitously stumbled on acceptable settings.
My recommendation is to always get an ESC, capable of being programmed using a card. Much easier and the results are consistent
Rowen

I am slowly superseding Hobbyking for HOBBYWING.
Have two x 16bl30 is service and they perform well.
Aircooled, but have not cooked them yet
Rowen

Thanks Steve for your thoughts. Appreciate the identification of the coupling type.
Agree with your recommendations on alignment. Guess to paraphrase a military expression "Time spent on alignment is seldom wasted!"
That coupling seems to accommodate any slight mis match by straining as you suggest. The Hookes joint type absorbs it by speeding up and slowing down every half rpm. Accounting for the noise and vibration.
My first experiences of the "stepper motor" type coupling are encouraging. So much so ordered a spare set yesterday. They are inexpensive anyway.
Biggest concern is if any straining will ultimately result in fatigue, which might cause failure.
Time will tell.
Cheers
Rowen (right way up!)

Rick,
Have bought a couple of sets, one from Banggood and one from Amazon.
Suggest search for "couplings" on either site and you will find a whole range.
Think buying from Amazon is more predictable, but they all seem to be made in the Orient.
Rowen

Have now tried this coupling style in two models.
Thoughts are:
1) Slightly more bulky than the hookes joint style they replaced.
2) Not as flexible, so installation requires slightly more room.
3) Quieter and less vibration.
4) By examininging the "spiral" cuts the coupling alignment can be assessed. If it is misaligned the spirals either tighten up or get wider.
5) Much to early to assess life.
On balance am satisfied and will retrofit other vessesl as their annual overhauls dictate.

Well Doug,
That is a thought. Must think about the practicality of such an installation on a finished superstructure. Fortunately there is plenty of room.
In fairness though, every photo I can recall seeing of the class shows a clear exhaust.
Also, never thought Davey Paxman diesels were heavy smokers!
Rowen

Video shot last week in our latest sailing venue, Hamilton Harbour, Ontario

Rowen's RTTL

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Hi Doug,
The "significant differences" from a modelling perspective are really in the drivetrain. The Brave had 3 screws, the RTTL 2.
This opened up a whole new chapter in my learning experience of brushless motors. Will summarize once satisfied with the layout.

2762E became the choice as my hull is GF.
The usual wood RTTL had a series of narrow strips forming the skin. Close up pictures show the ridges between the strips, whereas the aluminium would have been smooth.
GF would more accurately reflect this smoother surface.
The number history (2762E - 2772) is entertaining and unique too!

Correction, RTTL Mk3 not 4!

Thanks all for the kind words and for the pictures. Most of those are ones I had not seen before, fortunately they do not suggest my modellers license was incorrect!
There are a couple of shots of the RTTL Mk4, a steel hulled RAF Hi speed launch that is not well described anywhere. Interesting.
My current project is another RAF launch, # 2762, originally built with an aluminium skinned hull; eventually reskinned in wood. She was capable of over 50 knots with the alloy skin as it was lighter.
As she follows closely the Brave Borderer build, have decided to only blog the areas of significant difference. Early days.

Video taken of the model under way

HMAFV SEAL - 1:35 Model

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Miscellaneous detail added to complete the model. Had to deviate from my usual focus on building accurately to scale as some detail is not shown on either the plans or photographs. Fortunately “Modelers License” helped.

The model is essentially complete, just some minor bridge detail and flags needed. Then, once the ice goes, back to the pond for a final trim ballast and finish.

In summary, an interesting build of a little known vessel, a build that makes an attractive model and one that sails well with a straight forward, brushed motor powertrain.

The ice has gone and the model has now been sailed extensively, as the 3 wet pictures show. The extra experience has confirmed my earlier remarks on just how good a model this vessel makes
t

The only deck feature that is unusual is the R.I.B. launch crane. Fortunately the earliest iteration of the Seal used a simple rigid jib crane with a winch to raise and lower and another one to swivel the jib from the vessel centreline to over the deck edge.

After much thought decided the hook raise/lower function could be achieved by using drum fastened to a 360 degree movement servo and the rotating function replicated using another servo that would rotate the crane jib. This was attached to a shaft that passed through the centre of the crane body and under the deck where it was moved by a pulley and belt drive to the servo.

Can now see why this arrangement was replaced with an articulated hydraulic crane in a refit! The RIB swings when lifted and has to be carefully guided past the engine room intakes. Probably not practicable in any kind of seaway.

Continued to add the usual selection of navigation and spot lights, also a radar scanner. The light installations were considerably eased by our local electronics shop now stocking a resistor that limits current in an LED circuit to 20 mA. This means any number of LEDs can be added into the circuit (up to the max. battery drop voltage) without corresponding resistors. The wiring is simplified enormously.

Finally had four circuits working, two lighting for the nav. and spotlights and one for the radar scanner motor and wheelhouse lighting. All controlled by an overall RC switch and individual circuit micro switches.

Used the idea previously tried on my Brave to have brushed connectors on the hull with corresponding copper pickups on the underside of the superstructure. These obviate the need for wires that link the superstructure and hull, making removal much easier.

I have a couple is service and like them. Much more modulated response that a similar sized Turnigy.
Would also recommend a programming card as that helps to adjust the performance characteristics

Hi Ian, thanks for your thoughts.
The couplings I have see 19mm dia and about 25 mm
Long.
Always take care to align the shafts.
As it is about to rain think can spend an hour or so fitting one.
Will advise experiences next week after my water tests,
Rowen

Not for my Seal but she would be easy to retrofit.
Building a RAF RTT Launch using another MTBHulls hull.
Another winter project, just testing drivetrain

Banggood ! Damn spellcheck

Thanks Doug. Have already got them. Somewhat different as they clamp directly onto the shaft and there is a thin slit scroll to provide the flexibility. The input & output shafts can be different sizes
Will install during the winter refit.
Look good,got them from Babyhood.

Thanks Doug, that is reassuring. These are in aluminum - do not know what grade and they come from the Orient.
Going to be a struggle to get in but as the alignment is quite good should be worth the effort. The current Hookes joint style couplings
are noisy

Just bought a couple of these couplings
(excuse the paper clip!) for use on a brushless motor installation.
They look quite workmanlike, has anybody any experience of them?

Have found the Flysky manuals inadequate.
Try U tube , whilst mine is not the same model it helped me
Good luck