I can't comment on Deans Models as I've never built one. But I dare say I will one day. I've always enjoyed Kit Bashing, as you can normally build your pride and joy quicker than by scratch building.
My only negative comment about any of the kit companys is I wish they wouldn't produce White Metal fittings as I prefer to limit the weight above the water line. I would prefere resin fittings. Another thing I'm not really kean on is using wood bits in a boat. I stopped using wood in my models some time ago, after a much loved model sank after wash from another boat drowned it. By the time I got it back, all the wood had swelled up, and caused the joints to fail. If I do end up using wood, I prime it well with sanding sealer these days.

I use Self Resetting Thermal Trips in my boats, as I know the most likely place that a stick or something will get sucked in to the props is when it's right in the middle of the Lake Heading for the wier.
I get them from Ebay and solder them in to the motor output lines from the ESC. Using them stops frying everything. I normally use 5Amp, or 7Amp Trips (eg. Ebay 163850151824). I use a BEC ESC to power the radio gear and by having the trips in the outputs means I still have steering, and the other motors to get the boat out of trouble. I would like to say I fuse stuff like lights, but don't always. I all ways srinkwrap any joints, and touch wood there's never been a problem. They also sell trip that have a reset button but then you have to get the boat back to reset them. I found the trips I use have saved my models. BTW This reminds me of a joke an electrician friend of mine told me. "Do you know the reason why they put a covering on wires? It's to keep the Smoke in". 😂

Talcum powder, but you don't want much. I use Tamia low tack tape when I mask stuff like water lines. But have use talc if I don't have any propper tape. 😊