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Model Boats Website Team
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Hi, Great build blog for Mascotte, and a fabulous end product! Harking way back if I can, to the sail control for Mascotte. I am about to embark on a build of Cariad (or at least a pilot cutter similar to Cariad ). I'm trying to figure out the sail control for the two foresails. The front one overlaps the second, how did you get one to move over the other when tacking? A fellow club member has successfully built a spinnaker control for an IOM which has some of the features needed - treating the front sail as a spinnaker. But i'm open to any ideas. Sam
Hi, I'm doing some (a lot) of research before embarking on a Bristol Pilot build. My attention has now turned to controlling the twin fore sails. A helpful guy at my club mentioned using a 'mixer'. Anyone who has controlled two foresails and/or a genoa on a racing yacht may have some ideas here - any welcome. But my initial question is about terminology. Reading my Futaba handbook - a truly excellent translation 😡- I find two terms under the mixer section - 'OFS' and 'VR' - any idea what they mean? For interest, the problem is that the front sail overlaps the rear 'foresail' so we can not simply attach a sheet to the front sail to drag it to a 'tight' position as this may tangle with the rear foresail. The second problem is that if the foresail is out to the port, the drum winch must turn anticlockwise to haul it in, whereas when it is to starboard the winch must turn clockwise. I do love these problems, but desperately need help. If its only someone telling me not to be stupid and just lket the foresail hang loose - I'm not racing afterall👍 Sam
Hi again, To remind you - I'm about to start a build of Cariad - about a meter long fiberglass hull made by Chris Wynn-Brown. Selecting the auxiliary motor I'm looking at a m500 but any thoughts about the prop used. Thinking 2 blade fairly small, 25mm. Not needed for speed, just to get to shore if the wind dies. And originally auxiliary motors/props would have been small. Does this sound right? Sam
Edward, Yes - thinking out problems is half the fun😊 My first build was a Vic Smeed Starlet - just completed. Pretty straight forward but I over engineered it to try out some ideas - thinking the ideas through was great fun. So although I will not start the Cariad until January I'm trying to explore problems now. The angle of the rudder shaft is one that I think I have a solution to. Take it right through the deck then put a handle onto it, hinged at the shaft so that it does not rise and fall as it is turned. Then a Bowden cable from each side of the cockpit to power the steering. I will enjoy building a mock up and trying it out! As to the rudder, I am thinking of a detachable extension - downwards. I'm also thinking about placing the prop to one side - perhaps more authentic but also well clear of the rudder. One thing that I'm still thinking through is the access hatch. I see some builders move the dingy to the centre and create a hatch here but I like the clean decking on the original, with the dingy to the side. A hatch to the side would work for everything but the top screw for the detachable keel. Some more time dreaming up a solution. Thanks Sam
Edward, I'm going to cast a bulb which gives me some tolerance in positioning it on the keel to help with the final trim. Probably make the keel from two sheets of balsa with a central threaded rod screwed and epoxied to the bulb. But that's for a later stage, right now I want to build the shaft into the hull before fitting the deck. Are you fitting an auxiliary motor? if so what sort of motor is most suitable? Quite looking forward to starting but likely to hafe to wait until after Christmas - work intervienes Thanks Sam
Edward Thanks - just one question, if your model is twice scale does this mean my tube should be about one inch behind the mast? I aim to complete the boat before testing the weight of ballast needed then like you, allocating most to the keel and some to 'trimming' Sam
Hi everyone, just hoping someone still reads this blog. I am just about to start building Cariad and have decided to take advice from this blog, and fit a detachable keel. This is my second build and first fiberglass hull so being careful thinking it through. it makes sense to design in the detachable keel before fitting the deck but clearly I can only measure the ballast - weight and position - once the boat is nearly complete. So id welcome some idea of the position of the false keel so that I can fit a tube now, and build the keel itself later. Anyone able to advise?🤔