Hope this Is not considered Inappropiate to post this video here as the majority of videos are about baots on the water (hope mine will make It one day) - but would like DaveM (Fleet Admiral) to have a look see.
Hi. Whilst you specifically asked for Dave's help (which Is always welcome) I thought I'd add my thoughts as most, If not all of us have struggled with these problems at some stage.
The noise you experience can only come from a limited range of things I think- sloppy bearings In the tube, poor alignment of motor and shaft, noisy coupling and poor lubrication. I take It you are sure about the motor?
It sounds from what you say as If the bearings might be suspect and that will always be a problem until sorted. As Dave says, remaking the bearings may be the best choice. I had the same problem with my Wavemaster refurb- the bearing holes were oval- but I was able to remove the tube by twisting firmly with a stout pair of pliers. It was a bit nerve wracking but the thing about wooden boats Is you can add or graft In bits ad lib. I do now feel confident about the tube and bearings.You can check your bearings by moving the shaft from side to side to see If there Is any lateral movement - you will be able to feel It If there Is.
You can buy motor mounts for all common sizes of motor and again I think you need to feel confident about the mount and alignment. Buy a cheap multi-meter If you don't already have one and run the motor on low voltage to just turn It over. You can get the best alignment by seeing the least current the motor will draw. As you said In your video your motor seems to stick before getting going Indicating something binding. You need a little end play In the setup so the prop Is bearing on the bottom shaft when driving forward.
I have recently discovered that couplings can be quite noisy, although In my experience these black ones are better than the red. The red ones can be quite sloppy and are designed for lower revs-I have used both. I have started using rubber couplings from ModelBoatBits- on the advice of someone on this forum- and they are excellent.
There Is always much debate about lubricating shafts! I always fill the shaft with silicone grease but others say this causes drag and only oil the bearings. Some don't seem to do anything at all, but at least a drop of oil will help In each bearing when setting up.
It's also worth bearing In mind that a boat which Is noisy on the bench will quieten down In the water- but I do think your system has a problem, or problems you need to address.
Finally, my experience Is that It's easier to build from new than do a refurb especially If you have limited experience. You can check alignment before skinning the boat, all components will be new and of proven provenance, and you're only dealing with your own mistakes- that may not be helpful In this case-but may help In the future.
I hope some of this Is useful- It's all based on my own experience won by tackling these problems and spending hours and hours scrounging round this and other forums. If you haven't looked at these I suggest a search, especially Model Boats Mayhem, as there Is much to be learned from them.
Hope you have success with your boat- keep at It systematically and you will get there one way or another.
😯 HI Ian many thanks for the reply ' pointed out Dave as he replied to original post and I was really keen to receive a quick solution - which when combining all replies to date looks as though I'm moving closer to replacing the shaft tube. 😡 I've now compared both the old and new shafts In both tubes and there Is a considerable difference In the amount of free play ' the old fitted one Is quite slack 😱
The glue used to fix the tube Is similar to concrete but hoping your twisting method works and as you and Dave point out It's a wooden construction which can be fixed ' just wish now I'd fitted the motor earlier I.e. before spraying the hull.
Could you explain the bit about end play a little more as currently there Is a fore and aft movement up towards motor and down towards propeller of about 5 mm or more.
I can quite honestly say I do not like the red couplings as when I first started to tackle this problem some 3-4 years ago I had one disintegrate on me with the motor running max chat - causing the brass nut to take off at a rapid rate of knots and place a dent In the garage door 😯 I have seen these rubber couplings but thought they were for brushless motors.
I did have silicon grease In the tube but also read something about drag so thought this may have all been tied In together I don't think that's the case now and so a little oil or grease Is going In.
It's good to know things go quitter when It's In the water but I think my system would need to be a submarine to sound quieter to the point where I'm embarassed to put It out on the water. All this Information has been very useful and I think a quick visit of ModelBoatsMayhem Is now needed.
Hope the Info you received altogether Is of some help. These things are definitely sent to test us- I'm having a similar problem In another boat, basically because I didn't do things properly In the first place! I'm also faced with making some new bearings- sloppy ones are definitely a source of noise. The rubber couplings are a bit longer than the Huco ones so you may need to take that Into consideration-the gent at ModelBoatBits Is extremely helpful and patient I have found.
The end play should be a smidgeon I think, perhaps a mm. The Idea Is to have the prop, or washer at the bottom end, pushing on the bottom bearing and relieving the bearings In the motor from taking the thrust- that's the theory anyway.
With regard to removing the shaft- up to you and on your own head and all that- It Is a fraught business and If you could get some bearings made up It would solve the problem-are you a member of a club? You might find someone who can turn them for you, a simple job for someone who knows what they are doing. I'd hate to think we were encouraging you to demolish your boat! With my Wavemaster I gave the tube an exploratory twist and realised It would come free, so I was lucky but I did have to rebuild a bit of the skeg where It split away.
Your experience with the red coupling will bear out what I have discovered- there Is quite a lot over on the 'other' forum about couplings.
I can't honestly say I have noticed much difference with grease In the shaft but I haven't done any proper comparisons- I wonder If anyone has?
I've posted more Information In the Hobby Chit Chat forum which In short carries a BIG THANK TO YOU and your suggestion of twisting the tube to see If It comes free. You'll see why I went for this option when you read the other post. 😁
HI there guys, I am just In process of renewing prop shaft In my 34" fire boat, have for years run It with Ic engine, as not permitted on most sailing areas now Im converting to electric, I have removed the shaft and tube (badly worn from Ic engine use) all I did was firm grip with pliers on the tube twist to dislodge glue and filler then knocked out of the hull from Inside. my Intention Is to use a speed 600bb for power any comments on power set up would be helpful, my boat weighs In at 2268grams. Chiffs
Second decent run with this boat- rather sedate I think. At the moment It's drawing 33amps (stationary, 16.5 amps each motor) with both motors running from a 12v Nimh pack. I want to get each motor running off a separate LiPo and then I could probably Increase the prop size- still well within the esc rating and the motors are very cool after a run at the moment. It seems a bit back heavy and I'd like to get It running flatter- so will try moving the batteries more amidships.
HI Ian See you are making good use of the wattmeter 😀 Like the video and agree the balance could benefit with a bit more weight amidships. Listening to the video sound suggests your motors are not developing full power so I suspect the NiMh's are not capable of delivering the amps required. You could try smaller props with the NiMh's to see If the performance Improves, could be your motors are working just below the optimum.
Dave, I found that the Nimh batteries were dropping off to around 9v at full power when measured with the wattmeter and this Is why I want to go for Lipos, one on each motor. At the moment I'm taking everything from one pack and I think this Is the limiting factor. When I get my Lipos I will stick them In the middle and try larger props, probably 40mmS types to begin with, having measured what's going on with the wattmeter first. It may be that the existing props will do better If the batteries are delivering up what the motors want. You're right, there Is still plenty of headroom with this setup. Just got to rake up the cash for two largish capacity Lipos!
The wattmeter Is a splendid purchase- I'd say essential for this type of thing.
Anyway, glad you liked the video- she still looks quite good toodling around at that speed.
All the best...Ian
F1 Tunnel - Hobby King - Posted: 6 years ago by Gregg
First trial run after purchase off good old Ebay. Running 26kv motor and 11.1v lipo. Its a little bit "skippy", but after returning to shore, It looks like It may simply be the height of the prop shaft, so now adjusted, ready for a second trial shortly....more to follow.
The rudder servo arm and ruddr link have been carefully setup by the manufacturer, so It only give approx 30 degrees of turn angle, so no risk of turning too sharply and risking a capsize Dave. There Is no need to adjust anything on the transmitter at all, just simply give It full rudder stick when you need to turn. Its the throttle thats the nervous bit !!! Once It picks the nose up and runs on the stepped hull at the rear, Its like a scalded cat. Calm water Is majic, but anything over a slight wave and forget using It, too high a risk of flipping It off the top of a wave crest.
I shall have to get some more video sorted, now Ive adjusted the prop height, Its even smoother to run [and even quicker too].
They can be very stable and get a higher level of speed over a mono hull. BUT ...... yep, there always has to be one............ I find that a mono hull can sail In any type of water condition, twin hulls, or tunnel hulls are better suited for calmer water. the main risk Is for the hull to flip over backwards If thits the crest of a wave and the wind gets under the bows, the centre section then acts as a sail , wind catches It and lifts the hull nose up........... and over !
If you get the chance to sail one.......try It, they are good fun to sail, take a bit of concentration to get the best speed out of them, especially on turns.
Its like any boat, there are good things and bad In all of them to a degree.
VOSPER CRASH TENDER 46 IN - Posted: 6 years ago by AlanR
Boats name Is Who Ha (Grand children) I'm afraid Second trip on water In 30yrs plus It's what's known as long build Upgraded from first sail from 3 blade 9.6v ni-cad to 4 blade 12v ni-mh Speed and handling are fine for grand children at this time will wind It up at a later date
First trials after upgrading the hull to brushless motor, Instead of original 550 size motor. this test was on a 2 cell 7.4v lipo, I did try a 3 cell, but the stretch of water we use Isn't long enough, I run out of water too quickly, so for now, 2 cells power It Is. Its still a handfull on turns, as the turn fins will take some setting up to get the best out of them to maintain a degree of speed, rather than drag factor off the turn fins.
HI Gregg Pretty mean machine. Looks a real handful. I guess the 3 cell took the boat out of your pond! Not familiar with your turn fin terminology, but from my model plane days sounds like you need to set very fine control adjustments, just like a fast plane. Interesting finish to your video - looked a bit like a wheelie. 😀
Mmmm.... turn fins? Perhaps he means a 'dagger plate' a vertical fin that should help prevent the boat from rolling and filpping on turns. Just theorizing I'm not sure though If two would be the answer, I wonder If they might actually hinder. With a single plate of the right size placed centrally the boat would be still be restrained from too much sideways roll yet not lose any directional control being able to pivot on the single plate, where as two plates would tend to act like two fixed rudders and be hinder to turning. I also fly planes and I agree with Dave M about fine control, If using a computerized radio dialing In both rates and expotential helps compensate for over enthusiastic waggling of the sticks and Is nearly always required for fast craft particularly first time out. Anyway that sure looks like fun, that's a serious handful and on just 7 volts, well done!
Dagger boards are onl;y used on sail boats, turn fins are a fine edges plate, fitted to the transom, and adjustable In height/depth to the water, so It gives less "bite" when running straight, but digs In on turns to get the hull to bite In to the water.
A rudder Is fitted, so there Is no way of fitting one of these centrally my freind, they have to fit either side/one side of the transom. "trimming the radio" does not cater for the movement on a fast boat, thats purely down to the person behind the sticks at the time! The "end game" on the video was when the rudder dug In too deeply and the boat just spun around due to an "over steer" moment........... thast just what can happen when playing around setting up brushless systems.
Three wooden boats restored or built by Kalamunda. - Posted: 6 years ago by ianed57
The first boat Is a restored Maycraft Mercury, then an Aerokits Sea Hornet. The last Is a replica Yeoman Minx. All are powered by brushless motors.
Looks like a nice build sure Is a model to be proud of and It sounds great too,"but" there has to be a but It would have been nice to see the whole boat operating on the water just as the guy operating It looks at It not just onboard footage.
Purchased secondhand, upgraded to a proper motor esc rather than the original/factory on/off micro switch for the motor power. Running a graupner 600 race motor and 7.4 lipo, basically just to run the brushes In on the motor before raising the battery voltage, bit of a shaky video but try holding the transmitter and filming at same time on your own [ha ha]. it does have the capacity to move a ot faster, but would sooner work the motor In fully first
Brilliant model very well done far better than those cheap ones you buy from shops etc at least this looks real It looks very nicely put together It also has very good performance for a model getting on the plane with ease. What's the chance of you retailing them I would be very Interested and I used to build real ones.
Thanks Don for your comments, My hovercraft Is scratch built,the skirt Is unique because It has no holes for lift, the lift comes from slots under the hull, making It fast on land and water. Was that you travelling south on the M6 motorway with your craft Sat 8th?
This Is the third craft I built and this was test day went very well on both land and calm sea now resides In South America giving tourists rides.It Is powered by a 110hp KawasakI 600 Ninja engine for thrust and a 13hp B&G for lift.
Launch at last of Coromandel at Cleevedon last week with the help of a passing Portishead/Cleevedon club member who steered the ship, whilst I somewhat did my best with a video camera, I will have to get In a bit more practice.
With the noise from the meccano step down gears It gave a satisfying Impression. I do not expect that It will get sailed much, as It has ended up much more of a display model than something to expose to the sort of water we have around here.
Very realistic looking on the water. What calm conditions you have, my lake usually has a steady swell washing the landing stage from the other side. 😀 Good to see you have finally launched. I know from experience that this often seems to get farther and farther away.