Started to scratch build a police boat back in March, build so far. Have now started on the superstructure, so more pictures to follow.

Hey guys, I finally got a good start on my Dumas Typhoon in 1/10 scale. This kit builds up in 2 halves which is kind of different. Although I had my doubts about alignment it came together nicely. I will update when I can, I am going to take my time on this one. I plan to use a 3660 2200KV brushless motor and 60A esc (I have on the shelf). Is water cooling absolutely necessary? I have a fan for the esc and a heat sink for the motor. Any input is helpful. Thanks RR

Hi y’all. I’ve temporarily put the Antje aside for reasons that I stated in the build blog and started on a Billings Banckert. I originally bought the kit for a very good price off EBay ( yes that still happens!!), then added it to my stash. I haven’t had it long when one of my “trading partners”, Fred, started eyeballing it. Long story short he had it about a year, decided to thin out his stash, and brought the Banckert along with 2 other kits I had traded him and made a trade back for a kit I had in my possession….so I decided to start her before she got traded again!! Now…it’s a Billings kit. Good quality parts, nice laser cutting, good brass, slightly confusing instructions with hardly any measurements or written details. It’s like my Taucher, you just have to think a few steps ahead. Unlike the Taucher, the kits parts are marked with drill holes and the like, so each step, from what I can tell, Billings wants you to dry fit the parts and see how they fit in relation to each other..which you should do anyway, but their kits seem to be engineered to encourage this. Now, there is no suggestions on power, battery, etc..there is a box fwd of the fwd bulkhead for the receiver. That’s it. Also, no useable tiller nor is there mention of one. So here goes The first thing I did was to cut out the hull and deck, making careful note of what to leave via the pics in the manual. I then added the floor, 2 bulkheads, and the stuffing box support. I then tackled the stuffing box and the rudder/ Kort nozzle setup. The Kort nozzle is suppose to be held in place with 1 screw and the bottom shoe. The rudders are May of ply halves that you’re supposed to grind away enough material to allow room for the rudder shaft. I did mine out of layered balsa, sanded and lightly glassed them. I then decided, fatefully, to build the whole assembly up and bond every thing in place..this necessitated having the prop installed, as it will be a real pain to replace with the whole works glued together…however, if I damage that prop it’ll probably mean the Kort nozzles toast too, so there that. I decided to use an old Hitec HS81mg for the helm, as it has enough torque for the job and has metal gears too. It’s also in a semi bad place, but where it sits I have a straight shot to the tiller, and works perfectly. Power is being handled by a HobbyWing 30 amp brushless esc and a 28 mm 880kv motor. I made a ply/plastic mount out of scrap. I’ll have good access to the motor, tiller, and electronics, the servo will likely be a little hard to get to but not impossible, and the prop/Kort/rudders have “no user serviceable parts” Thats where I’m at now. I have to make sure I get my battery setup just right as the fwd hatch is narrow, so my choice of battery might be a little limited, but I have options. After that’s all completed, and if I feel I have enough room to easily ballast the boat with the deck on, then my next step is to secure the deck to the hull. Cash

Many of us have seen or heard of the "Springer" push boat (a.k.a., tug, truckable boat, etc.). Most of them are not scale models but still built to the enjoyment of the owner. This blog deals with how I build "Springers" to look like a scale model of some real boats. I will deal with some of the issues as well as ideas for searching for you own "scale model Springer". Follow this blog as I build my latest "Springer", a US Army Corps of Engineers truckable push boat working at the Little Goose Dam in Washington State where it moves river debris to the "stoplog" gates. Lew Florida, USA Here is the introduction video: https://youtu.be/bZZJOWAsU0Y

After weeks of waiting for the kit to be delivered from Italy I re-ordered instead from Cornwall Model Boats and received it next day. The box was smaller than the one for my Riva but at a quick glance all the parts seem to be there. Now that I have received the kit for this motor sailor I can start to plan how to attach a detachable keel and a detachable extension to the rudder. There is an optional motorisation pack available which uses one motor but drives two props through a gear system. Myself and Roycv are thinking of using 2 separate motors but I'll check space available. Not sure whether with potentially 3 sails we can get away with one winch because it looks like space is at a premium. I must say the Amati Italian Runabout kit had very much clearer build instructions than this kit with lots of photos of various stages. Before I can start building this I need to resolve a problem with my newly fitted fireboat's fire monitors! Hopefully my blog will help to fill in missing information. It might be a slow build log because I'm limited with pains in my hands how much I can do at a time - so to those followers please be patient! Some photos of the box content:-

Hello all.... I have started a new project!! progress so far... she will be 32 " LOA and twin screw.

Scratch build the ship I was on in 1965-67. I purchased a hill from scale shop yard in California. Covid held up making it n delivery. I have it and it’s perfect. I’ll publish bits as I do them. I gathered all data from my past n all online. I’m building it as it left upgrading at Charlestown ship yards in Boston. I have a hull so first thing is put in formers n stiffen the hull so I can install the deck. First thing done was do a fast sand to get the top of the walls flat. I’m adding carbon fiber cross frames and added rear torpedo ports. These ports were to allow the ship to torpedo without turning around. Never got used as far as I knew. I also made formers from fiberglass sheets left over from my gyrocopter where I added a body shell. I was advised by manufacturer that expansion rates in the sun could cause cracking of joints. So carbon fiber n fiberglass are similar to the hull. Once formers epoxied in I will start the deck with its opening for equipment. Here is pic of real ship rear n the model. I used hatches from Polaris missile plastic sub kit. I also will start on the stand for the ship to rest on. I used cardboard to make patterns fir formers and stand. I’ll post more

Having about a couple of weeks in which I put aside my Schnellboot I started first one then the second of Italeri’ Vosper kits the 77 and the St Nazaire 74 boats …I have worked them to the point of subassemblies for painting…and will soon configure a brushless motor and ESC . After the all the issues with the Schnellboot build …in part to many starts and stops over the last few years I will keep these simple to a single motor and rudder.

TRUMPETÈER 1/200 Well a couple of photos of the progress so far. Prop shafts and rudder now installed motors which at present are 340 brushed lined up and dry running seems OK. Bit of vibration from the motor mounts at present, this was my first attempt at making a mount and probably require some more adjustment. Started on main superstructure now plus cutter boats and funnel. Great fun NOT with the brass pe fittings/definitely need glasses . Hopefully do some more tomorrow and during the week, whilst waiting for DVLA to respond

I'm looking for a copy of the Veron Titan Tug drawing. It is more a building guide and a top and side elevation that a drawing. My late father build it in the 1960's and it survived until 2012 when he passed away. It then disappeared.

This model is a kit of some sort it has a few issues with putting it on the water the top comes off in one bit so I have put the build as follows 1/ The hull is minus every thing inside I am not sure if I need to add more compartments its float test was not good its top heavy 2/ Props

Started the latest project. Spotted these nice 105mm rubber tyred wheels in the big hardware store, and thought they deserved having something to be attached to,- hence the new project. Scratch building using my 'cut it and see' method Started with a 20x20mm ally angle frame (main V from one piece angle cut and bent with bent and bolted rear cross bar) Rear axle is 10x1mm ally tube, with stub axles (from 10mm bright steel) turned down to fit inside and turned down for a 6mm securing Nyloc nut, and a rear shoulder for the wheels. Stub axles and tube are drilled through 3mm and secured with 3mm machine screws. Front axle is 6mm rod from an old sponge mop, and is bent and angled for a bit of reverse castor. 50x3mm ally strip added to the front of the frame for reinforcing and to mount 'stuff' to. The front steering head bush is 10mm bright steel drilled 6mm to be attached to? Tune in next time for another thrilling instalment JB