LT100 My Way. With this build log there is a lot of ground to catch up on I have been building this model for more than 20 years. I do not profess to be an expert builder, nor that this is an exceptional model, especially considering that this is only my second scratch built model. However my intention is to build the best model I can (this is true most of the time). My first reasonable scratch build being a simple hard chine cabin cruiser. Most of the models I have built have been plastic kits. My intention with this project was to build a working model without many compromises, that is to say when out of the water you would not be able to tell it is a working model. I welcome constructive comment. I hope people enjoy the journey with me. Looking around for a scratch build project, something that wouldn’t take too long (ha-ha) or be too complex or too large, I found that I really liked the look of steam drifter trawlers. A wooden prototype being preferred as I could build a model hull out of wood then build a steam plant to power it; therefore the model would have some similarity to the original even if internally it wasn’t a replica. So the decision was made to build myself one, I started searching for suitable plans, this was in a time before the internet when things weren’t just a click away, therefore I relied on the couple of plans catalogues that I had in my possession. Plans were found in the MAP Plans catalogue, then this project got off to something of a false start in 1990 with the purchase of a set of plans drawn by R. A. Neville to a scale of 1/24, from the Plan Shop in New South Wales Australia these are for a typical Wooden Steam Drifter. I am not sure when these plans were first printed, however I have inherited a copy of Model Engineer published in September 1959 which is the first of 4 articles titled, How to build a Wooden Steam Drifter, written by R. A. Neville (I didn’t find this article until many years after starting work on this project!) I wasn’t quite happy with these plans, being more interested in building something that represented an actual vessel. So I sat on them for quite a while umming and arr-ing, thinking they are not quite what I wanted. Then to my amazement and elation, on the cover of Model Boats in April 1993 was a beautifully made model, that had been entered into Class C9 kit class at the 1993 Model Engineer Exhibition, of LT100 built by Robin Butler, winning a Silver medal, and guess what next month there were to be plans for this trawler, wow just what I wanted! Life got in the way of hobby as it usually does and it wasn’t until a few years later in 1996 that I purchased the plans drawn of Formidable LT 100 by James Pottinger to a scale of 1/33, along with the book From Tree to Sea by Ted Frost, this is a wonderful book about the construction of LT 100 drawing from Ted Frosts memories as an apprentice ship wright. The plans arrived, then I had them enlarged to what I thought was 1:24 scale, as mentioned earlier I intended to power the model by steam, I went off and measured the opening for the wheel house and I found I could comfortably fit the 3 ½in diameter boiler I was thinking of building through the opening. Having no experience with steam at all, I imagined that steam plants would require quite a bit of servicing, with this in mind I thought it was important to be able to remove the entire steam plant easily for routine maintenance. Next step was to get some plans for an engine. Probably in 1996, my dad and I went to Kilsyth (an outer suburb of Melbourne, Australia), where Live Steam Supplies of Victoria were, they specialised in miniature steam in all its aspects. Whilst there I purchased plans for a ½ in bore ½ in stroke, twin cylinder double acting oscillating steam engine designed by Basil Harley, published by Model Maker plans service. Probably first printed in July 1983, I have the August 1983 Model Boats with part two in a series of articles to build the engine and boiler along with a 42in long steam launch, once again I didn’t find this article until much later after purchasing the plans even though this was a magazine I had bought! I had already decided to make the centre flue boiler designed by Peter Arnot. Peter ran an excellent series of articles in Model Boats for a Vee 4 steam engine, boiler and associated equipment throughout the year of 1993, I intended to purchase some 3 ½in copper pipe as illustrated in the plan. Unfortunately Live Steam Supplies of Victoria didn’t have any 3 ½in copper pipe, turns out this isn’t a size commonly used in Australia, what to do, luckily I had bought along the trawler plans and after a few quick measurements were taken, a rash on the spot decision was made, (this would latter cause problems). I purchased two pieces of 4in diameter copper pipe that were cut to length, along with flat sheet copper for the end plates, smaller diameter tubing, a few packs of solder on nuts and tails along with other various items including a Cheddar ceramic gas burner. The steam engine and boiler were started along with the work boat, work proceeding roughly in parallel. Most people start with the hull, however I decided to start making the work boat first, my thinking being if I can make a small clinker built boat to the standard I wanted then the rest should be achievable, also I wouldn’t be in such a rush to finish what is really “just a fitting” for the project, therefore possibly doing a better job. After reading the clinker-built boat section of “PLANK-ON-FRAME MODELS and SCALE MASTING & RIGGING Volume 2” by Harold A Underhill a start could be made. I wanted to use Huon pine, for most of this little boat, this is a very slow growing timber unique to Tasmania in Australia, which was used to build real ships and boats from, due to its ability to not rot even when submerged, it also has a straight, fine grain and generally pale in colour. I made a start by spending a day at dad’s using his table saw to cut up some blocks of Huon pine into strips to make up a “kit” of material. This material I had bought back from Tasmania on my honeymoon, packed into our suitcases to my wife’s bewilderment. Then making a building board and formers from MDF (not the best material to use as the dust is very bad for you, I was unaware of this at the time). The keel was fabricated from several pieces of an unknown hard wood all pinned together with homemade bamboo pins, a Huon pine transom being pinned to the stern post also keel doublers attached for planks to rest on. I would like to say that I could not have made the work boat without Harold Underhill’s book, there was a lot of reading then rereading combined with head scratching going on during the build. The main difficulty was to generate the shape of planks. At one point I nearly scrapped the whole thing as I couldn’t seem to get the planking just right, however after some consideration I pressed on with the attitude it doesn’t really matter if this one is not perfect I will learn lesions in building it and I can always build another if it isn’t up to scratch. Once templates were made the plank would be cut and steamed then clamped into position, left there for a few days then glued on with Cyanoacrylate and pinned to the previous plank, making sure not to pin it to the building frame. After planking the hull was removed from its jig then ribs, benches, floor boards, rubbing strake and knees were added, some artistic licence was taken, I didn’t follow the plans completely choosing to not add grab lines like you would see on a life boat and a device that I was unable to determine its purpose mounted on the transom. Next oars were made, these are not shown on the plans, I didn’t want to make paddle’s, so I looked through books that I have trying to determine proportions and came up with something that looks like an oar to me, I made these from Huon pine in two parts. Next came the crutches and sockets, Brass tube was used for the sockets being fitted into holes drilled. Next the crutches, these were fabricated from brass wire and fine chain silver soldered together, when I am silver soldering small parts I use a technique my dad taught me. That is to cut off the required amount of solder and once you have heated the flux a little to boil most of the moisture away, then place the solder using tweezers where it is required, the solder will stay in place because most of the moisture has gone from the flux, gently apply heat and you should have a very neat job. While on the subject of soldering a low-cost alternative to fire bricks is to use what is called Hebel in Australia this is a lightweight product used in buildings and landscaping it is an aerated concrete sold in blocks. Once the flux was cleaned up, they were painted black using Humbrol enamel. Using a Teak coloured wood stain, I masked then stained the top strake down to the rubbing strake. The inside and top strake now received a couple of coats of satin varnish. The rest of it received a few coats of Humbrol satin white airbrushed on. In the end after it was finished, I hadn’t quite achieved what I set out to do however, I was quite happy with my little work boat even with its short comings. Cheers, Stephen.

Hi y’all. I was lucky enough to sell a few kits I decided not to build, I got them over the past couple of years doing trades with my local club members. This allowed me to buy a few things for myself for Christmas without touching the family budget, and we could splurge a bit more on family and friends. Of course, there’s no surprise, but then again its easier on my wife…she jumped thru hoops one year to get me a PAW diesel when I was still flying. She said it was an “adventure”.. Anyway, once everything was said and done I had an Aeronaut Kalle under the tree. I resisted the temptation to look at the kit before Christmas morning, and told myself I’d start on it later in the new year. Yep, 3 days after Christmas I had her on the bench. I’m an addict… The Kalle is a nice kit. There’s some decent fittings, the wood is good, the hull, deck, part of the superstructure and deck are molded well from abs. It really and truly looks like a beginners kit, but there’s more to meet the eye with the Kalle. First thing I did was to cut the superstructure and bulwarks away from the molding. They are molded as one u it, and Aeronaut has very specific instructions on this procedure so the builder doesn’t cut off what looks like scrap. I rough trimmed the plastic parts for the time being. The next step was to laminate and glue up the keel…and this is where I start to deviate from the instructions. You see, this kit is an original Kalle, which has been superseded by the Kalle II. The plans on my kit show a captured rudder, where the KalleII has a removable shoe. I decided to mod my keel to the later variant. I made that decision AFTER gluing the keel to the hull. It would have been easier to effect this change if the keel want glued on, but I have a Dremel…..I turned out better than I had hoped. With the shoe cut out I built up the rudder and did a kind of hybrid install between my kit and the new variant. I also countersunk the screw holes I drilled for the shoe attach screws. Once I had everything jigged up I went ahead and installed the rudder tube. The rudder is wood, I think I’m going to glass it for a better, sturdier finish. I then turned my attention to the tube and motor mount. This is where it get interesting, the plans show a box frame installed in the hull, and a geared brushed motor bolted down to a lower plate. The newer kit includes a bulkhead mount for mounting either a brushed motor or brushless outrunner. The wood parts in my kit included that mount. There’s no mention of this part in either th instructions or plans, and in the call out illustration that part is not shown in the frame sheet…but it’s there. So..I went that route. The motor I’m using is the same one I used in my Taucher, a Zippkits 650KV 36 mm outrunner. This is a good motor, pleanty of power without the usual higher RPM one usually sees in motors this size.I built up the frame with the bulkhead mount, and used the motor to jig up the stuffing box. Once I was satisfied with the alignment I epoxied everything down, then built a servo mount on the side of the frame for the rudder servo. The receiver and esc will be Velcro mounted to opposite sides. I then uninstalled the electronics so I could give the wood parts a coat of waterproof finish. That’s where I’m at now, next go-around I’ll reinstall my electrics then start the deck install, then I have to plank the deck. Cash

Pedersens & Thuesens Boatyard put the small town of Bramdrupdam on the world map when, in almost two decades, they built 97 of the world's finest dragons, with Olympic gold medalist Ole Berentsen's "White Lady" as the most famous. Ole Berentsen, Christian Bülow and Ole Poulsen, Hellerup, won Olympic gold in Tokyo in 1964 with their famous D 166, "White Lady". During the Olympic Games in 1964,

01 Introduction Again after the finishing of the Vintage Model Works Police Boat I decided to have a go at their latest offering which is a 36 inch Marlin Cabin Cruiser This model was originally an important model release for Vernon, being the first of its kits that was really large enough to take the bulky radio control gear of the day. It appeared in 1953 at 72s/11d (£94 today) and was reviewed in the November Model Maker who found the design, with its rounded cabin and open front cockpit, the 'nicest looking power boat yet kitted'. It was for 1cc to 5cc diesel power or a large electric motor such as the 12V Taycol Super marine.

I will, most likely, have to rename this Blog, at some point. In the mean time...please do not expect much for a while as she is in her very early stages. First a disclosure: This hull was built for me by another gentleman. It was delivered in a not quite completed state. Therefore I have spent the last two month working on it to get to it's present state. So.. what is it? She is one of four ships in a class that was later enlarged to around eight maybe ten members of the class. Her main armament was eight 5"/38 caliber twin turrets. She and her class namesake sister were both lost during the Naval Battle of Guadalcanal. This ship is most noted due to the loss of an entire generation of one family, five brothers. This should be enough for identification. She is being built in my preferred scale, 1/48th or 1/4"=1'. This ship was used for numerous camouflage scheme experiments and, sadly, there is little definitive documentation to pinpoint her second to last and last schemes carried. That said, my plan, subject to change without notice or reason, is to present her as she appeared following her New York Navy Yard overhaul, or perhaps as she may have appeared after repainting in Placentia Bay NewFoundland, 1942. She measures out to 11' 3" and her power plant is to be two 24 volt Buehler motors. Pictures of her and the build to follow. Wish me luck please, she will not fit in my van....

As I seem to be working on two models at the same time I thought I'd attempt the document the Crash Tender Restoration. It was the purchase of this one that led me to this site. This one was also found by my wife, this time on FaceBook Marketplace for £35. so a quick trip to Paignton meant I'd bought another boat. I suspect it is an old Aerokits 34" model, the panel pin heads are obvious in a few places. The hull was in decent condition, there was a dent each side soon disappeared with West + micro balloons. I pulled the prop shaft out and found that is was a 3.67mm dimeter shaft with plastic bearings that had an O/D of 6.28mm, the outer tube had an O/D of 8mm. The plastic bearings had a lot of wear but rather than try to source replacements I thought I'd replace the outer tube and prop shaft. Thinking I'd have a major job to remove the tube it was a very pleasant surprise to find that I could just twist it with a pair of pliers and easily slide it out. The rudder tube also came out very easily. I've painted the hull withe Hempel Multicoat just to get all a uniform colour to see of any fairing is required. Seems to be a decently built hull requiring little work, so hopefully I'll make some progress on it when I'm waiting for paint or glue to dry on the Perkasa build.

I have been looking forward to starting this build for some time. It looks like this will be an interesting model to build but mainly I look forward to setting up the 16 channels required to give full function to all of the special features. The Dusseldorf is one of three identical boats built for use in the Ruhr area of Germany. The boats are equipped for disaster situations, (they must have known I was going to build it). They can be used for ship fires, oil leaks or as a port facility at risk of explosion. The fire monitors, radar, boat crane, lighting and anchor winch will all be working if I can sort out the controls. The fire monitors are of particular interest because if I get things right, they will swivel, lift and lower and shoot water. We will see. As stated in the instructions, I read most of them to see how things looked. I got bored at page six so forgot that bit. The next stage was to check the contents against the bill of materials. There must be 1000 pieces. I checked the large pieces and gave the rest a miss also. Not a good start I hear you cry. You will get used to it. I proceeded to remove the stand parts and lightly sanded off the connection remains. I assembled it using super glue but I will strengthen the inner corners with Epoxy later. I stuck some draft excluder tape to all of the edges which contact the hull for safety. Next stage was to trim off the excess material at deck level of the Hull. With 1.5mm thick ABS this is quite a job especially considering that the boat measures around 2.8 Metres all around. I used a Stanley knife to remove the bulk of the material followed by different sized files to trim to size. This process takes a lot of care so that not too much material is removed. The hull has a rather crude sort of line to work to but I think I will put more reliance on my eye and a two foot steel rule. I still have a little filing of the edges to do before I will be completely happy as this edge will be visible on the completed model. According to the instructions my next stage is to fit the rudders, motors and prop shafts. A job for next week.

Just having a play with an idea for a model of a early Russian KS 100D general purpose work boat. These were used for river work towing logs etc in shallow rivers . The water jet is unusual, as it has a rear shute with twin rudder type deflectors, and rear hull side ports for reverse (independent controls for each port). Someone on the site mentioned a steam powered water pump driven ship from the 1800s ? a while back on the site which used a similar principal. The boats were made by the Yaroslavl shipyard, and were very common in the late 50s till (I think) the 70s. Not much info on them but a few guys have rebuilt old ones for pleasure boats. They have a speed of around 16-18knts and used a Yamz 170hp V8 diesel. I've contacted (YT) a guy who has rebuilt one of these boats, and he has fitted the V6 version of this engine. My attempt is not like the original, as there is no info on the complicated internal deflector system, so I've gone with the next best thing using modified electrical conduit fittings with flap valves. Seems to work ok, but not sealed yet so leaks like a sieve. I'd use a 26mm jet unit for the pump in front of the unit. I'll have to reduce the diameter of the side outlets to get more force behind the jets. Might have to fit the unit in a waterproof tray with a bilge pump. as I think, even though it will be sealed, it will still leak slightly round the 3 shafts. https://youtu.be/7Lgb7hH6ln8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=altwiMdZlIA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWSI8moMeZg&t=33s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87PsJVdPNhE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ3U7XmeG1A (similar later model showing manoeuvrability) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hblw4_44FB8 The big lid on the jet is for clearing weed or similar which might get into the unit.

Well, here goes part one of my build blog on constructing the the Cabin Cruiser Diva. As this is my first ever build blog if I'm doing something wrong please let me know. I am 74 years old and have been building period static display ships, other models and model railways for some time. A few weeks before the end of 2022 I decided that before it was too late I would like to build a RC boat and a RC powered glider. I contacted Cornwall Model Boats who I have used for some time now and they recommended the Diva as a good model to start with as a novice. When I received the kit I first found that the components in the box did not match up with instructions. The kit is made by the German company Aeronaut and is distributed in the UK by Caldercraft. Because the original instructions are in German Caldercraft provide in the box a set of instructions translated into English. I said above that the components in the box were not matching up to the instructions. What I did not know until I contacted Caldercraft that Aeronaut had changed many of the parts and had produced a new set of instructions to match and had not told Caldercraft. Caldercraft sent me the new translation as a PDF file and all was well. So if anyone purchases this kit in the future check what instructions you have in the box. Although Caldercraft sent me the file they did say that the new instructions can be found online. The instructions are a Google translation which I have found in the past is not always so good but I found the translated instructions fairly easy to understand with some having to be read a few times to understand what was meant. I did get stuck on one of the instructions which I put down to old age because I just could not get it to formulate in my brain. Having said that, I was very lucky have made contact with the forum member Martin555 who took a look at the instructions and gave me a very good explanation of what I had to do. So if anyone else wants to build this model and gets to instruction number 11 and gets stuck send me a message and I'll happily help you out (or past you on to Martin ) I have found the build so far interesting and rewarding. The frames or bulkheads were easy to assemble as there is a jig provided with the kit to hold the frames whilst glue dries and other parts are added. Once a certain stage has been reached the jig is discarded and the build continues whilst the hull is support on the stand provided which also has to be assembled. You will see from the photographs the some of the various stages I have completed. I installed the motor and the propeller and shaft the other day. The motor has be purchased separately to the kit. The motor is held in place by two screws and the shaft is positioned from beneath the hull. I did find that I had to adjust by filing the entry whole in the underside of the hull to get the correct angle so the shaft and motor were in a straight line. Once that was done the shaft is fixed in place using Epoxy Resin glue. When the glue had cured which was about 16 hours I removed the motor from it's housing and then applied two coats of sander sealer to the inside of the hull to waterproof it as per the instructions. My next job over the next few days is to reinstall the motor and fit the support parts for the remaining electrics and the rudder housing. Once they are done I will let you know how I got on. Greg

I have had an interest in Dunkirk Little Ships since assisting a very good friend to move his from Cookham nr Maidenhead down the Thames through the City of London to Sheerness and out into the North Sea and up to Lowestoft and into Oulton. The trip which took several days is one of the most memorable of my life. When looking for a new project and with 1/24 plans available for Bluebird of Chelsea which is also a Dunkirk Little Ship I decided to attempt this as my next build. She was built in the early 1930`s for Malcolm Campbell the holder of many speed records on land and water and was 52ft long 11ft 4in beam 4ft 6in draught and displacement of 23.4 tons, powered by twin Perkins diesels. She was restored after a busy life including sterling work off the Dunkirk beaches during the WW11. If I can do the model justice she should be an absolute beauty to build. I have made a start in the usual way by cutting the frames and starting the old favourite plank on frame. Lots to do but the right time to get started. Regards ChrisG

I know this is not the normal build on this site but I thought if y'all want to see it I will keep posting. This is a replica of a boat that raced here locally (Louisville, KY). I grew up on the Ohio river about an hour from the Madison Indiana Regatta (unlimited hydros). So not only did we have drag boats but the big boys too! A lot of sport boating, a few sailing yachts, cabin cruisers and of course House boats ( have one in the works soon). As a young man I got to ride in all of them. But I was so impressed with these old flat bottoms . ( Talk about brass balls) I have had this Idea of a real V-drive setup in my head so I'ma try to work that out. Found this transfer case from a 1/8 monster truck. I think I can make it work. Working in 1/6 scale. I sourced a Hemi engine. 4074 brushless 6s setup? Thanks to all on this site for being friendly and helpful. I really love the diverse subjects. Thanks, Dave (RR)

Hi all, This is my Happy Hunter Build! I actually started it over a year ago! But after some personal events. I am now continuing my build of the Happy Hunter! I have installed the Bow thruster which works very nicely! And I have also installed both prop shafts! Today I put a second coat of the red oxide! As I didn't like the first coat was too light! My Happy Hunter will weigh 19.4 lbs. She'll be the heaviest model I own! My Smit Nederland weighs about 12.5 lbs.! I'll post more pix as I build! Stay tuned?