|
|
|
i to find steam power costs high been looking along the lines of the stirling engine but dose it have the power ????
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ha Ha...very perceptive of you Mike 😜
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have the same issue...cost / budget. I enjoy mechanical devices and have though about steam for years. But cost is high and I do not have machinist quality tools to scratch build. Are there low cost solutions out there! Joe
|
|
|
|
|
|
I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. It takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. If the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. It is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
|
|
|
|
|
|
then there is brazing 😊 did a load of this when working with high pressure copper tubing 👍
|
|
|
|
|
|
I haven't built this boat/tug. But I am half way through building an Aeronaut Classic Sports Boat. I'm far from happy with the build of it. Bottom skins are just over an eighth of an inch too short and the side rails to fit the skins to are of one sixteenth thick, these are too thin in my thoughts. I would certainly never buy another Aeronaut model to build. it was a waste of £80. I have seen a build of the same model from about 4 years ago and since then they have skimped on wood for the build. Cheap wood to get a larger profit on the model. Steer clear of them in my mind.
|
|
|
|
|
|
A note on plumbers acid flux (Bakers fluid) yes it does work however don't leave any instruments/equipment you value in the vicinity of the soldering process because it will be as rusty as hell the day after. Other soldering activities soft and silver 1 cleanliness is paramount 2 correct solder and flux 3 temperature or your iron or gas torch 4 (soft) only apply solder when your work is at temperature 5 (silver) apply solder when your work is at temperature and just before make sure your solder is introduced to the flame and is fluxed . 4 finally use a minimal amount of solder it reduces number 5 5 clean the joint PS if silver soldering before the job has totally cooled quench it in cold water, this will make the flux easier to remove otherwise it hardens like glass. Good look
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looks good but I haven't yet invested in a printer, I'm not sure about the technology, does it take away the process of modelling? just a thought to provoke discussion as it is an interesting process.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Not everybody can afford the investment in steam, I would love to build a model with steam power if only I could pick up a steam plant for around £40 -£50.The unit you show I think would come in at something more than that. so I suspect there are other admirers of steam but out of reach because of cost. Just a quick search sees prices of a complete installations in the region of £1500 -£2000
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm assuming the antique pine stain was applied to the sides of the cabin not the roof ?
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have only built static ships /boats so am probably not the best person to comment but one of the main factors that I can see are if you are young and just starting out saving pocket money or older and living on a limited budget. Is the cost differential between a basic electric motor and a basic steam plant I may be wrong just my opinion. Cheers Marky👍
|
|
|
|
|
|
"..., however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that..Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build.." Have you seen this site? Provides free templates for exactly the kind of models you make. See the illustrations.... http://eezebilt.tk While clean surfaces are the correct way to make solder flow and stick properly, you will find that plumber's Acid Flux will give you a successful solder joint on pretty much any surface, no matter how dirty...
|
|
|
|
|
|
well back in the day (when Noah was building the ark) and I was serving me time :-) we used to have a golden rule about ferrous and non-ferrous metals and solder - Ferrous metals and alloys contain iron and they tend to rust; non-ferrous materials do not. . such as brass, copper and so forth and these are the easy ones to solder with soft solder. Ferrous metails which contain iron as we have said - we need to use a harder solder such as brazing silver solder and then we are into the field of Welding. Basically the art of soldering is to find out the type of materials we intend to join together and then we can come up with the appropriate method. Stainless steel is a different world altogether and so is aluminium. Hell of a subject to get into 🤓
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hello I myself think soldering is practice doing clean surfaces are the first step flux, type of solder and a good iron . Holding the pieces in jigs or clamps will assist in the final out- come. At first it seems very hard but practice will prove to help and soldering becomes a little easier. Rick
|
|
|
|
|
|
I really can't believe that considering all the members that use this website, that no one is interested in steam engines and what steam has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine. In the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. If anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for steam, kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.
|
|
|
|
Captain Posted: 1 hour ago
Fleet Admiral! Posted: 1 hour ago
Admiral Posted: 1 hour ago
Commander Posted: 6 hours ago
Lieutenant Posted: 6 hours ago
Sub-Lieutenant Posted: 7 hours ago
