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Welcome to the Model Boats Website! A place for all model boaters!
Feel free to browse through the website, ask your questions, upload your photos or even start your own blog!
Transmitter Lanyard £4.45 GBP
Transmitter lanyard! Make sure you never drop your transmitter in the lake! And save yourself the almighty strain of holding it for hours on end! This 20mm flat polyester lanyard has a thumb hook fixing that will hook onto many radio control sets.
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Wingcoax Newest Member!
16th Aug 2017
Portugal
1 day ago
Search Light (1:16 Scale) £2.50 GBP
Search light. 20mm diameter. 2mm thick mounting bracket. It comes in three parts and will require a small amount of plastic glue for the lens and base. The bracket simply clicks into place and the lamp itself will swivel. Provision has been made for a 5mm LED to fit inside and a cut out is provided for wires. Made in various colours including mixed lamp/base colours. White is advised if you wish to paint. Assembly instructions included. 1:16 scale.
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Latest Posts
Seabreacher by rolfman2000 Commander   Posted: 2 hours ago
I think I would be tempted to go brushless with it. Far more power for the size of motor. I don't think an 800 brushed motor would have the revs to push much water through a 50mm jet unit. Even an 850 motor would be an improvement. But going brushless, you could get far more revs out of it. Best of luck with your endeavours, Dave W 😀

Programmable Tx by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
Always assuming that the set actually transmits during programming! I'm not convinced of that so will test with my Reely/Turnigy and Spektrum sets. Watch this space!! 😉

Seabreacher by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
Hi Steve. I understand that the original ran with a 900 motor but you have only an 800 fitted, correct? Might explain some of your apparent problem! Cheers Doug 😎

battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
Hi Roy, Like I already said in similar threads; pay a bit more for major producers, like Panasonic as you mentioned, and you are more likely to get what you paid for. No names are always a gamble. May be a super start-up, may be a 'let's cash in band wagon jumper! Whoever the 'supplier' is a relatively small number of manufactures are behind them. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice! Personally, for the bigger, more expensive anyway, drive batteries I go for a supplier with reputation and known sources and reliable recourse without questions if you are not satisfied. For the little, cheaper, accus. for my Plastic Magic and auxiliary functions I am more inclined to experiment, log the results (manually!) and adjust future purchases accordingly. Regarding your super duper data logger; how has really it helped you? I used them often in my professional life, mostly as chief of the Rank Telecomm personal radio test department in the 70s and 80s, but now I don't need to sit in front of the PC analysing such data for hours. Time I could better spend building, sailing or solving other more interesting problems. Without appropriate analysis algorithms data loggers are useless. I have a thermocouple add-on for my multimeter which tells me if a particular cell is overheating compared to the rest. (The finger tip test usually agrees with the thermocouple!) This gives me a more useful indication than lots of abstruse graphs which you then have to interpret correctly. The money this cost you might have been better invested in a better charger as Dave M has already advised. I repeat what I said in the thread Dave mentioned: if I note that an accu. has a weak cell I degrade it to non-essential functions, nothing needed to bring the boat home! Each to his own; if you want to spend your time pondering over dubious statistics carry on and good luck! Personally I think Life's too short to waste on such things! If it woiks, don't fix it. If it don't woik fix or replace it, but don't waste time on bait digging when you could be fishing! Forgive me if I'm insulting your intelligence, for all I know you may also have 40 years professional experience in electronics. Let go! Cheers Doug 😎

smart phone problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
its galaxy s3, al other forums etc are fine, its just this one, that advert is a real nuisance😡

1st time RC by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
I may not hear you from down here, but I'll keep an eye out for blue lights in the sky to the NNW 😉 Surprised that this is really your first RC attempt 😲 After all the great help you have given us I'm sure you can rely on assistance with your RC installation! 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

battery charging by Trillium Commander   Posted: 12 hours ago
Gentlemen, many thanks for all the feedback. To respond to Dave's questions first: the charger I have been using is an MRC Super Brain 989, and the recorder is an Eagletree Micropower E-logger V2; both are off-the-shelf items and not calibrated. I know there can be some discrepancy between the two, but surely not enough to explain the numbers? I cannot check the temperature of the battery. That will be affected by another variable - charge and discharge current, will it not? As Dave and Doug have pointed out, I made a very, very rough, simple, conservative calculation of mAh looking at the chart. I did not try to be mathematically precise. It was a number for me to explain my question of whether the apparent charge and discharge efficiencies made sense and could they be explained. I have learnt a lot from this exchange and, since I have already acquired 3 battery chargers over the years, I am reluctant to invest in another one only to measure battery impedance. Question is now, does future potential use of such a charger make better financial sense than simply throwing away the questionable batteries and replacing them. Decisions, decisions. One final question, what charge and discharge efficiencies would you expect from a new battery past its "running-in" duration? I am aware that mAh capacities are not based on any recognised standard, but I have been led to believe that the stated capacities of Panasonic and Venom batteries are more reliable than most. Thanks again, Roy

Seabreacher by Captain-Steve Petty Officer   Posted: 13 hours ago
Just tried seabreacher on the lake everything working fine but its underpowered at the moment....suggestions for hardware updates welcome guys 😀

Programmable Tx by Wingcoax Apprentice   Posted: 13 hours ago
As stated, the results are saved in the TX. From experience with R/C aircraft you would get positive results by disconnecting motors and switching on both units(unless you need various throttle settings)in which case make sure the props are clear of anything. That way you can see the results before saving.

Programmable Tx by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
Shame, the ones for my Reely/Turnigy are pretty good. For my Spektrum - so much it gets confusing 🤔 or you forget where you are! Bon chance mon ami! 😎

Programmable Tx by NickW Lieutenant   Posted: 15 hours ago
Hi Doug.....just getting used to reading the instructions which are sketchy at best..... Regards Nick

1st time RC by marky Commander   Posted: 15 hours ago
now that the RAF tender is nearing completion I have another one the same to build the next one I will bite the bullet and have a stab at my 1st attempt at radio control any posts that follow with @^**!! Or similar you will know its not going to plan

Programmable Tx by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
Hi Nick, was a simple answer to a simple question! The model / RX does not need to be connected and should not be switched on. You are saving in the TX not the RX. Could lead to some unpleasant results if you are fiddling with the throttle settings! 😡 Possible exception, setting rudder limits and trim BUT disconnect the motors just in case!! Cheers Doug 😎 PS I don't think that most sets will transmit when in Programming mode anyway. Haven't tried it! 😉

Programmable Tx by marky Commander   Posted: 15 hours ago
could you be more specific 👍

Programmable Tx by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
No!! 😎

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