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Search light. 20mm diameter. 2mm thick mounting bracket. It comes in three parts and will require a small amount of plastic glue for the lens and base. The bracket simply clicks into place and the lamp itself will swivel. Provision has been made for a 5mm LED to fit inside and a cut out is provided for wires. Made in various colours including mixed lamp/base colours. White is advised if you wish to paint. Assembly instructions included. 1:16 scale.
Keep the sun glare off your eyes with these Model Boating caps! Professionally printed and adjustable to fit any size of head! Only £9.85! Why not get a badge to put on It too!
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave
Hi Marky, Yep I remember Grandad using these. No so good today for SMD work!! As early as I can remember my Dad had a 25W electric iron, strangely with a war dept. arrow mark on it 😉 I still have it and it is still going strong. Cheers Doug 😎
Hey guys!!! I'm looking on the web to find a way to build a working radar for my 1/32 Statia Relaint tug. The radar movement can't be fed from the bottom with a rod but with pulleys since is resting on arm like on the mast base. I know you guys have,the answer to any of our rookie questions. Thank you for your anticipated cooperation.
The maritime museum's event, scheduled for October instead of May, was cancelled as a hurricane blew up the coast and pushed water up the bay flooding a lot of coastal bay towns like St Michaels. I couldn't make the next Port Expo in 2016, but I tried to be ready for the maritime museum in October. I started making the forward bulwarks. The real ship had sections that folded down on bronze hinges a few of which still exist as she still had her forward bulwarks when she came to Baltimore. They could also be removed. I mad all the section as a single piece and I don't intend to make them functional, just something to snag and need to be repaired. As mentioned, the original winch drums warped and I made new ones with styrene drums instead of wood. These vanished around the time I moved and haven't been found yet, so I got some sheet plastic to take the place of the CDs and made a new pair. I have to say, I'm not happy with these at all. I did add a small block of Delrin to each winch to brace the drums against the pull of the braces/springs. Constellation's board at her entry port were carved. I took a photo of an original at the ship and traced it in PaintShopPro. Scaled it to the model and printed it. I glued this to some bass wood. I have some mahogany I can slice some thing slabs off of, and I may try using a rotary tool to carve a set for real, but till then, these will do. I tried to make the tops'l yard parrels which are iron hoops lined with wood. There's a pin for the yard's yoke to ride on, and the hoop can be opened and hinged to be removed. I wanted all that in case I need to remove a yard at some point without pulling down the whole rig. I tried it with some sheet brass, and again, I wasn't too hgappy with the result. We'll come back to that. So, I fiddled around with cutting combs to make hatch gratings, and actually managed to get something done, which led to making the main hatch cover. I had cut a bit of plywood as a cover, just to keep dust from going below while I was working - I based my hatch cover on this piece, framed the bottom; installed ledged for it to sit on inside the hatch coaming, and made gratings and fake beams on top. It's a bit simplified buy what the ship actually had, but it gets the point across. A couple of smaller gratings also got installed giving the deck a more finished appearance. I wasn't thrilled at bumping the bottom of a pool again, but the maritime museum is on the Miles River. I needed to be able to launch and retrieve the model at a boat-ramp or shore, so I started designing a launch-cart....
low tides at 23.00 at Rosyth ,even her indoors wants to see her so off we jolly well go ,hopefully she'l still be in the Forth when its light in the morning for a better look
Hi Nick I am fairly certain your problems are mainly battery related. Do you use the Tamiya (white plug and socket) type battery connector? If so these can make a bad contact which then causes all kinds of unusual problems. We did get a good connection with the ESC working correctly. Subsequently the same set up had no power. This could be a flat battery or a bad connector not making contact. If you push and pull the connector and the set comes to life you have found the problem. Charging the flat battery should get you up and running again. Getting late now so perhaps we can have another attempt tomorrow Cheers dave
Hi Nick, don't get upset, just slow down and try to be a little more accurate for us. Above all don't just plunge in with 'wild' experiments if you're not sure of the way forward. We are happy to help, and your problems are not insignificant, we all have some as we get older, but there's not much we can do if it is already too late due to 'wild' experiments🤔 Dave may well be right, after all this trial and error you may need to charge the battery again. That's why I asked if you have a simple voltmeter; a) to check the battery volts and b) if it is getting to the RX. Basic test engineering; #1: if it don't work has the circuit got volts? #2: If not why not ?? So, can you check the battery voltage please? Cheers Doug PS if possible (budget / 'er indoors or whatever) I can strongly recommend a simple cheap variable power supply to power such tests instead of having to rely on the battery from the boat. Let us know when you have the new battery and are charged up ready to go again. 👍😉
Hi Dave I charged the battery earlier or it may have been yesterday....but i'm thinking it is the battery, I have a NiMh on order so may wait until it arrives and then get back to it, sorry if this issue appears unreal, believe me all I want to do is sail my boat(s)....I assumed all you had to do was bind the Tx to the Rx and everything else would fall into place....maybe I should have bought a Futaba Tx/Rx rather than the cheaper versions....the boats I purchased have all been 40Hz so wanted to upgrade to 2.4Mghz.....not a case of plug'nplay as i so readily thought....anyway back to the drawing board and perhaps wait till my new battery arrives....I wish you a good night and thanks for all your help so far Nick
Hi Doug, i'm sorry if you feel i'm not genuine....after the last few years of my health deteriorating i've moved from 1/35 plastic kits thru the scales until even the larger scales I couldn't deal with. RC boats i thought would be good because of no real construction so don't have to worry about my hands working correctly (i've purchased my boats rather than made them) I have little understanding about electronics, my career in the forces was stores not electrics....I have tried to answer your questions of me that would eventually help me with honesty and openness....i'll try not to upset you with my insignificant problems from this point onwards.
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