A good hello to all members. Now that I finished The Fireboat, I would like to add to the forum my favorite build, one you are all familiar with.Hello fellow members. The Juanita Stern Wheeler. This an amazing, high end kit that that when finished will be 40" LOA & should weigh under 10lbs ballasted. According to online sources the JUANITA was built in 1954 by O. F. Shearer & Sons at Cedar Grove, West Virginia. Another source on the internet says that the JUANITA has been "in operation since 1977." The present owner of the JUANITA is Tom Cook of Dunbar, West Virginia on the Kanawha River. I was lucky enough to be a part of the first clients that purchase the first run of this fantastic model and I got it for a very reasonable price. With that being said, I would like to show you guys a building log for this model but buy no means I will say that this is the best way to build the Juanita but this is how Im building it with my limited knowledge and the help of the instructions emailed to me by the designer. I also like to say that this kit does not have written instructions since this kit was produced in a rush job before kits had to be sent out; the only instructions is a PDF file containing drawings showing the main steps of building process, but the designer himself is very helpful in answering all of my emails about specific needed details in the build. So, lets get started. I will start by showing the real Juanita.

This will be my first boat build at this scale, so who knows how it will turn out. I got a set of Vic Smeed's plans from Sarik Hobbies along with their wood packs for the model - I thought having some laser cut parts might be helpful. I grew up in Alness, so if the build goes well I'll probably paint it as 2757 which was based at 1100 MCU Alness/Invergordon in the late 1950's to early 1960's.

The VMW Marlin Cabin Cruiser by Robbob Preface. At the time of writing, I’ve had the construction of this boat on ‘the back burner’ since July 2022. By then I had spent about two months on and off constructing the boat to a stage where I could consider applying a glassfibre cloth and epoxy finish to the hull. However I couldn’t spend any more time on the Marlin project as I had a more important project to undertake, which was to paint, decorate, refurbish and prepare our house for sale so that we could downsize and move to a new area now that our kids had all fled the nest. Fast forward to today (mid-April 2025) and it’s taken a while to get the new house and gardens into shape and settle in, with the emphasis on converting my internal garage into a great new workshop, I can finally pick up from where I left off. Introduction to the kit. This new model is the latest undertaking by Vintage Model Works, now famous for their very popular models of the RAF Crash Rescue Tender and Thames River Police Boat kits which are based on old Aerokits and Veron designs. The Marlin is a re-working of an original Veron design by the late Phil Smith in 1953. His son Colin Smith, who was also responsible for the re-design of the Thames River Police Boat, has made some changes to his father’s design to take advantage of more modern materials and production methods such as CNC and laser cutting. The photograph below is of a prototype built by Colin Smith to give you an idea of how the boat looks in finished form. And there is also a review of the Marlin that appeared in Model Maker magazine, November 1953. The size remains at 36” and it employs the same construction method as the original. The spacious cabins of the boat makes it very easy to accommodate all the latest control hardware required, not that the original was lacking in that area even when the radio systems used valves and large batteries and the propulsion was usually IC or a large electric motor. Even the pre-production sample the Vintage Model Works kit supplied to me is well presented with a full size drawing including a pictorial construction sequence and separate pages of building instructions. All the required materials are supplied in quality ply, balsa, strip-wood and dowel including clear plastic sheets for the windscreens, and various white metal deck fittings. The builder is of course required to supply their own adhesives and paint of choice, as well as the propulsion, drive train and radio control gear. In the latter respect I will likely restrict control to throttle and rudder and not add any lighting or other features. That has already been done magnificently by Mike Turpin. Construction. As with the Thames river police boat, another Veron design, construction starts with the assembly of a box structure onto which formers and bulkheads are attached to make the basic hull shape. I will be tackling this in the first part of my build blog which I hope you will enjoy following and I encourage you to ask questions, leave comments and hopefully some ‘likes’ as I make progress. Robbob.

I've bought the above kit to keep me busy during these dark dank winter months. Originally I had planned to build a 880mm (34.6") Bluebird of Chelsea plank on frame kit. It is a famous pleasure craft built for Sir Malcolm Campbell and took part in rescuing soldiers from the beaches of Dunkirk under 'Operation Dynamo' in 1940. Unfortunately much to my bitter disappointment only the larger 52" version now is available which is too big for myself. I'm hoping some kit builder will make a kit of this craft at about 36" so in the meantime here goes with LISA M The kit has an ABS hull (a bonus for my hands these days!) and laser cut plywood parts. The kit also comes with an electric motor so all you need is a servo and speed control plus the usual R/C gear and battery. A set of English instructions were also provided which are a reasonable translation with the odd error here and there! I feel they could be a bit more specific in places so study the photos. The ABS hull comes with about 1 1/4" (about 300mm) extra height above the deck level which needs cutting down to be about 2mm above the temporary fitted deck level. This wasn't that easy but in the end I used a pair of tin snips to cut it which proved to be better than using a Stanley Knife. I have drilled and filed the holes in the ABS hull for the prop shaft tube and rudder tube. I've now assembled the deck coaming, motor mount, battery box and supports for the rudder tube. Next job is to waterproof the deck on both sides, and all the other assembled plywood parts. Having seen another blog, I've decided to strengthen the wood around the rudder tube by using an offcut from the wood provided for the boat stand. I will smooth the edges when the glue has set!

In the process of building a Directors class - Forceful paddle tug. Brought the fibreglass hull. Directors class - Forceful paddle tug plan drawing number 1292 Two magazines Marine modelling international jan 2017 & feb 2017 have been used as reference. Paddle wheel drawing number 1293 All of the paddle wheel components have been machined by me from raw materials. Bearings and fixings are purchased as required. So far I have Completed the feathering paddle wheels and drive. I have set up a test tank for a paddle wheel to ensure all is well before proceeding with the rest of the build. I hope you find my efforts interesting

When I first posted a thread under ... a dreamproject.. I didn't realize it was the wrong forum category. So here is my built blog. I will spare you the original introduction as I have made progress which and most of you are already familiar with my project. The hull was built merging 2 methods on a simple keel plate from plywood, bow and stern structure bread and butter and hull in between 3mm planks on frame. The entire main deck is intended to be removable with a drainage irrigation system of plastic corner moulding (from a building supplier) along top of hull and flush at poop and back deck structure. The deck is made of 1/4" plywood skeletal structure incorporating midship deckhouse. Hull glassed with lightest cloth available after 2 coats 2-epoxy sealer and paint primer followed by final coat except top (above waterline) grey will be applied once I have finished doing any necessary adjustments. There have been a lot of them since I realized many inaccuracies in dims etc. I wasn't happy with. Here are photos in the progress (some may have already been posted in the original post. More a bit later next week.

Made the bilge keels from two laminations of mahogany sheet to get the correct thickness and then glued them in place. Once this was done I was able to return to the superstructure. Drilled the holes for the portholes and then glued the cabin sides in position. Made the forward cabin front window and glued in followed by that for the rear cabin. Bolted and screwed the upper support for the drop keel whilst I still had easy access. Really starting to take shape now but still a long way to go! Chris

Hi y’all. I turned 65 last month, and in preparation for celebrating making it this far without getting myself seriously injured or spending time in jail I sold a few boats and cashed out some excess pto so I could do something I normally don’t do…spend more than usual for my birthday. So, I had a budget, and my goal was to use as much as possible from my savings from boat sales without disturbing the family Kitty much if at all. I was successful, came in under budget, my wife got me two kits and I picked up this-the Horizon Harbor Tug. Now, I’m not usually a RTR or RTF kind of person. The few times I’ve purchased a hobby grade ready to run or fly model I’m usually disappointed. But…this boat has been praised by modelers of all stripes, and Horizon has kept it in production for 4 years, which I think is some sort of record, as usually Horizons scale offerings last maybe a year, 2 years tops. Also, we have 2 members who are dedicated builders of tugs and submarines that love them to death. So here goes… I was not allowed to touch my birthday presents until my birthday, so I had time to figure out what I wanted to do with the Harbor. Once I got her on the bench, I gutted her like a fish. The Harbor Tug comes with a barely hobby grade pistol grip radio capable of 4 channels, a combo brushed esc/receiver, an esc for the fire monitor pump, and a radio controlled electronic on off switch for the led lights. Power is a 700 size motor, this is all supposed to be powered by 3 cells. It does NOT come with the water pump, that’s 60 dollars more, and from what I’ve seen it’s not as strong as I like. So, I had to make a mount for my preferred motor, the Zippkits 650 brushless outrunner, that’s coupled to the shaft with a good solid coupler. Esc is a HobbyWing 16BL30 30 amp unit. I had to do some modifications to mount my preferred Amazon sourced pump, which included drilling out the molded in water pickup and epoxying in a brass pickup, and changing the mounting location of the pump. Pump is powered by a 10 amp brushed aircraft esc-the original that came with the boat works well, but is set up for 3 cells, and doesn’t give me enough voltage at the pump. Originally I was going to use a FrSky 7 channel receiver, but I wanted to try my hand at telemetry. So I used a FrSky X8R so I could run the FrSky FAS40 module, which gives my real Tim battery voltage and current draw. I also added ballast to bring her up to 12 pounds, as the stock weight of 9.5 or so is seriously under ballasted. Now, the first production runs of this boat had some issues, leaks near the stern and along the bulwarks were common. It seems to me that Horizon did what Joysway did with the DF65, and listened to feedback, as my boat ran dry. There was a bit of water in the hull before the maiden as I was checking ballast and leaks the day before, and there was no appreciable water in the hull after. All systems worked well, and the boat exceeded my expectations. Now, y’all know me. You’ve seen my build logs. Probably wondering why I’m loving a boat that I don’t have much time at the bench with. You see, the story doesn’t stop here, oh no, I have more work to do. The real boat this was modeled after is the Taucher O Wulf 8. Horizon put just enough detail to please the average boat modeler, and decaled it with an H on the funnel. My goal is to get her recognizable as the Taucher. I have to do some detail work, add some things that’s missing, do some lettering, etc. The end game is a stand off scale model of the Taucher. So stay tuned, we’re going for a ride! Cash https://youtu.be/DIf4v8KvfSk?si=9Ya4HaEL1Sq_q__J

This is a well know model. I think there used to be an active group of TB modellers, this seems to have been maintained through a Facebook page - However, I don't use FB ! But Sarik models have put the original DVD on YouTube, which does help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4QeGUQ2KKg&t=4711s Any experience or advice about making this model - always welcome and appreicated.

I've been into the Hornblower series of books since elementary school, but it was C.S.Forester's The Captain From Connecticut that lead me to Horry. The first story published has Hornblower in command of the 32 gun frigate Lydia. I've always wanted to build a model of Lydia, but, of course, there were no kits or plans to be had. My friend and I have a 16 foot Windsprite daysailer, hull #1 of 16 built, which we named Lydia. In the picture, the 20-something girl in the 40 year old boat is also named Lydia. After starting on Constellation, i was thinking of donating or selling that model, so I wanted to build and RC square-rigger I would keep. Lydia came to mind again, but I what plan to use for a fictional ship? I decided on a British frigate and since the lines for one were in Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy, and getting a copy would cost under $10 US, so that's the boat I went for; HMS Macedonian of 38 guns. At 1:36 scale (like my Constellation) she would measure... Beam: 13-1/2" (34.3cm) Length on spar deck: 55" (140cm) Length of the hull: 59" (150cm) Length over the rig: 85-3/4" (218cmcm) Draft: 6.7" (17cm) w/o ballast keel, 10.2" (26cm) w/ballast keel Making her a little smaller than "Stella." Later, after I'd already built the hull, I found out Lydia, of the novels, was based on the Perseverance class of frigates. One of the pics attached shows the profile of the Perseverance in front of that of the Lively class showing how small she would have been by comparison. Actually, if I had built Macedonian at 1:48 scale (which is what the plans were) she would have been very near this size. Anyway, what's done is done, and while I don't have the ship of my fictional hero, I have a ship that was one of 16 ships built to that class. Built at Woolwich Dockyards, England, in 1809, and launched on 2 June 1810. In October of 1812 she encountered, fought, and was captured by the American frigate United States. Captain Decatur of the United States was intent on preserving his battered prize, and after two weeks floating in the Atlantic, she was repaired enough to sail to the US. She was officially taken in to the American Navy in April 1813, though she spent the remainder of the War of 1812 blockaded in the Thames River in Connecticut with United States. She was decommissioned near the end of 1828, and broken up at Gosport (Norfolk Virginia) While not a glorious history, full of battles, the Lively Class did have great histories in battle; Lively, Resistance, Apollo, Hussar, Statira, Horatio, Spartan, Undaunted, Menelaus, Nisus, Crescent, Bacchante, Nymphe, Sirius, and Laurel. Ships that fough at Lissa, Naples, intercepting the Spanish Treasure ships, and more. My model is a representative of a great class of frigates of the Napoleonic Wars, even if it isn't HMS Lydia.

Easier to form lower skins than I thought, laminating from the 32thou helped a lot.

Hey gang! As you may already know I have the Bluebird K-7 on the shelf for final detailing, the C-2 cargo ship Matson "Pacific Trader" awaiting rigging, and 22 inches of snow on the ground. So I wanted a challenge and grabbed an ancient Dumas Pay n' Pak Hydroplane kit to keep myself from going nuts. This may or may have not been a mistake! And...you may already know that I've already labeled this build as my "3 day running knife fight" as a boat made of 100% warped plywood is not a walk in the park. Here are some pix starting from frame up to a primer. And yes, to fight this beauty from becoming a warped "banana boat" those are bricks and carpenter's clamps helping me keep her straight! The The bottom is glassed and the rest resin covered. The primer is meant to assist in showing all my mistakes and assist in final sanding prior to a finish coat. Tough build, but it does look like something out of "Star Wars!" More to follow.