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Hi there Peter, one book I would like to recommend is the Machineries Handbook it's what I would call the machining bible, it's available on computer disc as well, try your local library they might be able to help. Hope this helps you. Cheers Colin.
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BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎
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Lovely restoration.Great job.👍
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Should have known Pete, after 30 odd years in Germany my 'street English' must be getting rusty😲 All the best, Doug 😎 PS I'll check if there's an English version of the book I bought - will let you know.
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Hi Martin, My stanchions were pre-drilled, from Graupner ca 30 Years ago. Never 'eard of Modelling Timbers. Timber stanchions!!!😲 I "only" had to drill the holes in the decks (thought that was what you meant), there were enough of them. Much worse though was fitting all the two part portholes 😡 Since fibre glassing the the hull I have to do that all over again😭 Frankly I think anyone who gets so many stanchions made as castings without pre-drilled rail holes need his bumps feeling. I thoroughly agree ref mini drills, too easy to snap fine drill bits. 👍 For precision / repetitive drilling I use my Proxxon mini milling machine as a drill press. If I need more than one of something I knock up a simple jig (usually from hardwood taken from demolished old furniture) to hold the work piece in the machine vice attached to the milling machine cross bed. I took the irritating collet fixing off the mill and fitted a real 3 jaw chuck 😉 Happy 'Vincenting', All the best, Doug 😎
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OK, Understood, I think! If you just want to boost the bow thruster why don't you just fit a small 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) just for that? Frankly I might start with an 9.6V batt before I jump from 7.2 to 12V. I assume it's just either On or OFF, i.e. no ESC. As you can see from the specs of your Booster, as the output volts increase the deliverable current (for a given input volts) decreases inversely, as I predicted! Ya don't get summat for nuttin! Soooo, you need to carefully check the specs of the thruster motor; max voltage, current at maximum efficiency versus volts applied! That will tell you the max volts battery that you can safely and most efficiently use, and you can check if your booster can deliver the required current at the voltage needed. I'd just use a separate battery and a servo operated micro switch, but then I'm just a dumb engineer!😲 Bon chance mon ami👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
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That's exactly what I thought Martin 👍 'Make your own'! Like my Sea Scout windows, made from 3mm tinted perspex, cut out on the scroll saw and trim filed to fit. I also used Canopy glue, when it's dry you can't see it👍 Also remembered your previous comments re Crash Tender windows and gutters etc. Cheers, Doug 😎
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Doug I will PM David. Been busy all day dealing with casting problems on the wheels of the Vincent and making dozens of dummy nuts'n'bolts. I would have thought you'd have used Modelling Timbers for pre-drilled stanchions. His prices were so low, but now, alas, he's gone. I would probably make a little jig to drill the cast stanchions. I think boredom would set in before I broke a drill, but you're bang on about hand held minidrills. They go too fast and cannot be held really firmly. I use mine for cutting and grinding, shaping and polishing. I have a very small pillar drill with a buggy motor adapted to hold a small Jacobs chuck and run off a variable transformer. Today I drilled 40 1mm holes in the pattern for the Vincent rear wheel to assist the mould maker. All went very well. Cheers, Martin
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Will check on amazon Doug, for an idiots book on lathes😆, I'm sure there are real friends at the club, and I also count you in there, for the help you have been on so many builds. really appreciate the help Doug.😉 Peter BTW, I meant the dogs Bo---ks ie The Best👍
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Mike, it's very easy to make your own frames from 60 thou. Plastikard. I used a piercing saw and Swiss files, then cut Perspex to fit inside the frames, sealed with Canopy glue. You don't need frames for anything but the wheelhouse windows. The others have a small gutter just above the window, which is easily made from brass wire and glued on once bent to shape. Glaze the windows like the others, with tightly cut Perspex glued in. Cheers, Martin
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Hi peter, Wow! Price has gone up since I bought mine! But it IS good, I'm very happy with it. With the really really cheap ones I'm always a bit sceptical of the fine control, accuracy and concentricity etc. These are even more important when working on very very small parts - aren't we always!? Afraid the only book I have on lathe work for model builders is in German. Must be similar books over there!? Try searching Amazon. BTW: I hope you meant 'The Bee's Knees' and not the 'Dogs Breakfast'! 😲 Re 'pestering friends'; You CAN'T pester real friends! 😉 I'm sure they'd be very glad to help and advise. If not; they ain't friends 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Sorry, photo wrong way up!
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Thanks for the in-depth answer Doug, much appreciated! The component was incorrectly labelled - my fault.. it’s a Voltage Booster! Pic attached... to clarify, it’s really the bow thruster (a very small one at that!) I’d like running a bit faster, you’re right about tugs not being sprinters! Regards, Eric
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Evenink Doug, Many thanks for the link, but no mention of a Proxxon, but googled that and found your FD 150/E, best price so far is £400.00 gbp. The major problem is I do not know one end of a lathe from the other😱, I do have friends with lathes who I could pester...but don't want to be a pest! any good books you can suggest, on learning the lathe😊. cheers Peter BTW, The proxxon lathe looks like the dogs ......😲
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That's why we're all here ain't it! 👍😉 Doug 😎
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Fleet Admiral! Posted: 1 hour ago
Commander Posted: 9 hours ago
