Cabin Mast. Made from a plastic material with a hinged base. Comes in four parts, the hinged base clips, main structure and top light. The top light will require a small amount of glue to secure. Stands 10cm tall and 7cm wide. Choice of colours available or white if you prefer to paint yourself. Assembly instructions included. 1:16 scale.
Gentlemen, many thanks for all the feedback. To respond to Dave's questions first: the charger I have been using is an MRC Super Brain 989, and the recorder is an Eagletree Micropower E-logger V2; both are off-the-shelf items and not calibrated. I know there can be some discrepancy between the two, but surely not enough to explain the numbers? I cannot check the temperature of the battery. That will be affected by another variable - charge and discharge current, will it not? As Dave and Doug have pointed out, I made a very, very rough, simple, conservative calculation of mAh looking at the chart. I did not try to be mathematically precise. It was a number for me to explain my question of whether the apparent charge and discharge efficiencies made sense and could they be explained. I have learnt a lot from this exchange and, since I have already acquired 3 battery chargers over the years, I am reluctant to invest in another one only to measure battery impedance. Question is now, does future potential use of such a charger make better financial sense than simply throwing away the questionable batteries and replacing them. Decisions, decisions. One final question, what charge and discharge efficiencies would you expect from a new battery past its "running-in" duration? I am aware that mAh capacities are not based on any recognised standard, but I have been led to believe that the stated capacities of Panasonic and Venom batteries are more reliable than most. Thanks again, Roy
As stated, the results are saved in the TX. From experience with R/C aircraft you would get positive results by disconnecting motors and switching on both units(unless you need various throttle settings)in which case make sure the props are clear of anything. That way you can see the results before saving.
now that the RAF tender is nearing completion I have another one the same to build the next one I will bite the bullet and have a stab at my 1st attempt at radio control any posts that follow with @^**!! Or similar you will know its not going to plan
Hi Nick, was a simple answer to a simple question! The model / RX does not need to be connected and should not be switched on. You are saving in the TX not the RX. Could lead to some unpleasant results if you are fiddling with the throttle settings! 😡 Possible exception, setting rudder limits and trim BUT disconnect the motors just in case!! Cheers Doug 😎 PS I don't think that most sets will transmit when in Programming mode anyway. Haven't tried it! 😉
It's said the only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked.....okay here's an intelligent question then :-) When you have a Tx that can be programmed (facility for up to 20 models on the same Tx) does the boat you want to program in have to be connected/switched on etc for it to save into the Tx?
Thanks a lot. Plenty of info there to ponder on. All very interesting. It's amazing what this forum comes up with when someone asks a question. If I used vinyl logos do I still need to varnish over them as I would a water slide transfer? Thanks again Chris
Hi Chris, i have had a lot of logos boat names etc printer on vinyl, most print shops do it, just give them the font or design and they do the rest, get it done on 5 year colour not the cheep stuff that fades. Mark
I need a sub! tried it many times and failed. All I want is a dorsal fin, and tail fin to resemble a shark, and the top of the hull/body. Needs to be 18 inches or so. I want it to submerse to dorsal fin depth, forwards, left and right. I have am mmb subsonic hull, an auto leveller, the tx and rx, just cant sort it. (some pics attached) Anybody have something to sell, or want a commission build? Thanks Paul