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    Page 1 of 82
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    3 Posts
    Scratchbuilt Esso Deutschland 1:150
    When I first posted a thread under ... a dreamproject.. I didn't realize it was the wrong forum category. So here is my built blog. I will spare you the original introduction as I have made progress which and most of you are already familiar with my project. The hull was built merging 2 methods on a simple keel plate from plywood, bow and stern structure bread and butter and hull in between 3mm planks on frame. The entire main deck is intended to be removable with a drainage irrigation system of plastic corner moulding (from a building supplier) along top of hull and flush at poop and back deck structure. The deck is made of 1/4" plywood skeletal structure incorporating midship deckhouse. Hull glassed with lightest cloth available after 2 coats 2-epoxy sealer and paint primer followed by final coat except top (above waterline) grey will be applied once I have finished doing any necessary adjustments. There have been a lot of them since I realized many inaccuracies in dims etc. I wasn't happy with. Here are photos in the progress (some may have already been posted in the original post. More a bit later next week.
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ JockScott
    10 hours ago
    86 Posts
    Russian K100D waterjet work boat project
    Just having a play with an idea for a model of a early Russian KS 100D general purpose work boat. These were used for river work towing logs etc in shallow rivers . The water jet is unusual, as it has a rear shute with twin rudder type deflectors, and rear hull side ports for reverse (independent controls for each port). Someone on the site mentioned a steam powered water pump driven ship from the 1800s ? a while back on the site which used a similar principal. The boats were made by the Yaroslavl shipyard, and were very common in the late 50s till (I think) the 70s. Not much info on them but a few guys have rebuilt old ones for pleasure boats. They have a speed of around 16-18knts and used a Yamz 170hp V8 diesel. I've contacted (YT) a guy who has rebuilt one of these boats, and he has fitted the V6 version of this engine. My attempt is not like the original, as there is no info on the complicated internal deflector system, so I've gone with the next best thing using modified electrical conduit fittings with flap valves. Seems to work ok, but not sealed yet so leaks like a sieve. I'd use a 26mm jet unit for the pump in front of the unit. I'll have to reduce the diameter of the side outlets to get more force behind the jets. Might have to fit the unit in a waterproof tray with a bilge pump. as I think, even though it will be sealed, it will still leak slightly round the 3 shafts. https://youtu.be/7Lgb7hH6ln8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=altwiMdZlIA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWSI8moMeZg&t=33s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87PsJVdPNhE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ3U7XmeG1A (similar later model showing manoeuvrability) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hblw4_44FB8 The big lid on the jet is for clearing weed or similar which might get into the unit.
    ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi
    16 hours ago
    2 Posts
    52' Motor Lifeboat Victory
    One of my nine-year projects is coming to an end. I am sad to see it completed in some ways, overjoyed in others. Many projects have been begun and shelved over those nine years; some are in the trash now. What is known is the 213' WMEC-168 Yocona is hit or miss whether my attempts to waterproof a static hull will be successful. So on hold or a side project. The Gunboat Philadelphia is on-going at work between shifts. PBY that doesn't Fly I will place on hold, pending possible actual flight. (That will put three aircraft inline to be completed.) The battleship North Carolina....Big. Not so complex as physically large undertaking. SO, begin at the beginning as I tell my students. I pondered purchasing the laser-cut kit from Canada, but it is just frames, deck, and pilothouse. Yes, it is 1" to one foot scale, and would match my 44' MLB perfectly, but $286 plus shipping? For me too much, I will build at 1/24th scale for now. Small enough to store, big enough to detail and outfit with running gear. My 44 MLB, is a leaky, but I am installing an automatic bilge pump. I get so much joy out of running it, and I will have the tri-fecta of MLB's 36', 44', and 52'. The 213 should be complete around the time I finish, so four CG projects in a years time, plus the Philly is a quick build. So, it is a year, year and a half plan. This will be a slow one. Non Boat picture is project that is almost complete. Kevin
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ KevinH
    3 days ago
    53 Posts
    BLUENOSE
    Started 2020 with plans by P F Eisnor from Nova Scotia 34 pairs of ribs
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ RossM
    4 days ago
    4 Posts
    Aeronaut Graf Spee
    I bought this kit about 10 years ago from a German model shop. It is definitely old-school, with great detailed plans, detailed stock list, but no instructions beyond a couple of paragraphs. I have not built a model in 20 years but was very active in my youth 50 years ago. I find that my skills have deteriorated and this will not be a great build, but it is enjoyable solving the problems and figuring out how to build this thing. It has a plastic hull, a very nice plastic fitting set, but the rest of the kit is wood, with many pieces which have to be cut from printed sheets. Luckily, I have access to a wood shop with jigsaw and sanders. I have fitted out the hull, added the motors, and started the superstructure. Stay tuned for further progress, I hope.
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ whittonm
    4 days ago
    25 Posts
    THE AMPHITRUCK
    Decided to do something other than a boat this time, but still with a nautical purpose,- a 6 wheel twin diff twin prop swimming truck. Been done before, but I thought I'd have a go at one of my own design. Drew up some side and end templates and made a start, Purchased all the mechanical bits, (diffs, front axle, prop shafts, props, ESC, wheels,) over a few months from uncle ALI and added them to stuff I had in my collection. Using cheap 3mm packing ply, I made the floor base ( to suit the diff and front axle widths) and strengthened it with 10x10 ally angle. Next,-cut out the sides and front and back panels. The floor was scored at the front and back to allow it to be bent up to the sides for gluing. Holes were cut in the floor to allow the diff heads to protrude through. I had to modify the front axle to suit the width of the diffs by adding in an ally angle center section. Also had a play with setting the diffs and drive-shafts up with universals. Drive motor is a 380 1500 RPM @ 12v geared reduction drive, which is the one I first used in my Jeep tow wagon for my Hartley, (replaced it with a 1000 RPM version for more torque) and uses a 3s LiPo and Quicrun 40A ESC.
    ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi
    5 days ago
    3 Posts
    Aeronaut Jonny
    Hi all, I started a new build during Christmas and I'm just about ready to start painting the haul so I figured its a good time to get the build log going. I've had this kit for about a year now, purchased from Bauer in Germany along with with the recommended equipment including their Schottel Drive system. The plan is to have the two Schottel drives, a bow thruster, one working Anchor (possibly two in the future of off the same winch), a sound system, two working radars, working spot light with pivot in pitch and yaw, always on nav lights and interior lights, RC working main winch and manually operated bow and side winches, tow separate working fire monitors able to rotate individually, possibly a smoke generator and final an auto bilge system This comes to a total of 18 RC, unfortunately I only have 16 available so we will have to see what ends up in the ship. So far I have the drives and bow thruster all fit and ready for assembly. I then built up the frame work and made the holes for the fire pumps and bilge. then had to build the lower deck house so I could fit the deck in the right place on the ship. Once the deck was dry fit I cut the scuppers then glued the deck down. I then set to work making the deck splash proof by installing and extending the kits coaming. I also add a drop floor under the aft hatch that I'm hoping will allow me to keep the water that gets on the deck from leaking down into the haul. Now I've got the Bulwark stanchions and handrails just about complete. I also started work on some of the deck items as I need the locations to work out some of the modifications I'm working through. I hope to start painting the haul soon, I'm going to try brush painting this ship as I was able to find some nice paints at an Art supply store and I don't have much access to a place to spray paint in the winter. I do think I will spray on the primer first and hope it helps absorbed some of the brush marks.
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Westwind
    5 days ago
    56 Posts
    Constellation
    Made the framed glass portion of the skylight. They're hinged so I can get a finger inside to flip the power switch on or off. They're made from clear plastic from some packaging, basswood, and brass wire.
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Jerry Todd
    9 days ago
    9 Posts
    1949 40' Chris Craft Challenger
    Hello all.... I have started a new project!! progress so far... she will be 32 " LOA and twin screw.
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Brightwork
    9 days ago
    29 Posts
    Ship of the desert ? new project
    Started the latest project. Spotted these nice 105mm rubber tyred wheels in the big hardware store, and thought they deserved having something to be attached to,- hence the new project. Scratch building using my 'cut it and see' method Started with a 20x20mm ally angle frame (main V from one piece angle cut and bent with bent and bolted rear cross bar) Rear axle is 10x1mm ally tube, with stub axles (from 10mm bright steel) turned down to fit inside and turned down for a 6mm securing Nyloc nut, and a rear shoulder for the wheels. Stub axles and tube are drilled through 3mm and secured with 3mm machine screws. Front axle is 6mm rod from an old sponge mop, and is bent and angled for a bit of reverse castor. 50x3mm ally strip added to the front of the frame for reinforcing and to mount 'stuff' to. The front steering head bush is 10mm bright steel drilled 6mm to be attached to? Tune in next time for another thrilling instalment JB
    ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi
    9 days ago
    1 Post
    To switch or not to switch ?
    I wrongly entered my last post in the 'how to' section where, it seems, you are unable to respond. So here is my query for which I am seeking your guidance. I have a motor circuit that comprises : 5S 5000mAh 30C Lipo; 40A fuse; 90A marine ESC; 3 x 20A fuses; 46 x 50 870KV brushless motor. There are no switches in the circuit yet. 1.Should I have a switch serving the battery ? 2. If yes, what rating ? 3. Should I have a switch between the ESC and the receiver ? Any advice or guidance gratefully received.
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck
    10 days ago
    37 Posts
    A new build
    I will, most likely, have to rename this Blog, at some point. In the mean time...please do not expect much for a while as she is in her very early stages. First a disclosure: This hull was built for me by another gentleman. It was delivered in a not quite completed state. Therefore I have spent the last two month working on it to get to it's present state. So.. what is it? She is one of four ships in a class that was later enlarged to around eight maybe ten members of the class. Her main armament was eight 5"/38 caliber twin turrets. She and her class namesake sister were both lost during the Naval Battle of Guadalcanal. This ship is most noted due to the loss of an entire generation of one family, five brothers. This should be enough for identification. She is being built in my preferred scale, 1/48th or 1/4"=1'. This ship was used for numerous camouflage scheme experiments and, sadly, there is little definitive documentation to pinpoint her second to last and last schemes carried. That said, my plan, subject to change without notice or reason, is to present her as she appeared following her New York Navy Yard overhaul, or perhaps as she may have appeared after repainting in Placentia Bay NewFoundland, 1942. She measures out to 11' 3" and her power plant is to be two 24 volt Buehler motors. Pictures of her and the build to follow. Wish me luck please, she will not fit in my van....
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ ToraDog
    10 days ago
    1 Post
    Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 10
    About the mainsail, topsail and large staysail. The gaff is lifted by the uphaul (Pic 1) with the halyard being tied off on a mast cleat (Pic 2) Note this is not how the real thing would be done, but is my method that works on a model. There are a number of cleats attached to the foot of the mast. These are glued and attached using long screw eyes ( see earlier blog) Pic 3 shows the gaff 'spreader' (my term) the halyard passing through various pulleys before travelling down the mast to a cleat (Pic4) More about pulleys in the next Blog. The following photos show the principle sails and how they are attached. I have made a number of other sails not shown here, including a smaller main sail and topsail, a smaller staysail, a jib and a flying jib. These can be set to suit different wind strengths. The mainsail (pic 5 ) is an old cotton sheet stained with tea. I have sewn reinforcement patches into the places that will come under stress or tension, and bias binding onto all edges. Metal eyes or hooks are then sewn into the clew (Pic 6), the tack (Pic 7), the throat (Pics 8 and 9), and the peak (Pic 10 ). Pic 11 just shows how the bias binding is used to finish the sail edges. Attachment points are shown in the next few pictures. Pic 12 the tack eye, Pic 13 the throat eye, Pic 14 the peak uphaul and Pic 15 the clew outhaul. Pic 16 shows the main sheet emerging onto the deck, passing through an eye on the travel horse and heading for the main boom. The topsail is shown in Pic 17, already stained with Colron dye, corners reinforced and bias binding sewn on. The following five pictures show the topsail foot, clew and peak in detail. Pic 23 is the large staysail, with the tack, clew and head shown in the final pictures. None of the methods used for attaching these sails is authentic. My aim is to be able to sail the boat and enjoy seeing it on the water. I therefore need to be able to attach or detach the sails quickly at the pondside. I use a variety of attachments, principally eyes and hooks. I try to make these as neat as possible, and not detract from the appearance. We often talk about 'passing the ten foot test', meaning if it looks OK when ten feet away, then it is OK. However, viewing these photos I can see just how poorly I have finished off sewing in the sail corners. There are too many ragged edges and untidy hand sewing. In future I must remind myself of this and do better. (Sounds like my school reports - 'must do better !')
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck
    13 days ago
    5 Posts
    Star Wars Patrol Boat (1/6 scale)
    This is a model I built several years ago. Someone gave me an old wood hull which I turned into an experimental boat, and wound up being a Star Wars Storm Trooper patrol boat. I generally don't do many "funny" boats and try to keep everything to scale. I believe this is a good example of making a comical boat to scale (no stuffed animals, etc.). It never performed well as it was small and the six "C" cell battery pack weighted the boat down giving very little freeboard (about 3/8 inch) and a slow speed. I decided to replace the 3000MAH 7.2V Nimh battery with a 2S Li-ion 3500MAH &.4V battery. Last Sunday I took it to the SSMBC meet and it went very well but after 50 feet it died. (It was the motor.) So that is now replace and it will be over two weeks to the next meet. So, in the mean time I took some photos of the fix-up and "innards". In particular you can see the adapter I made to fit the 2S battery where the hobby battery sat. It is 3D printed. I placed the file on "Thingiverse" (link below) in case anyone else is interested. I plan to get some videos at the next meet. Lew Florida , USA https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=7.2V+Hobby+Battery+adapter+for+2S+Li-ion+&page=1
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ LewZ
    14 days ago
    7 Posts
    Chris Craft Cobra
    New project is well underway. 1955 18' CC Cobra in 1/8 scale. Framework, chines, sheers and transom all together. I am starting the planking today. The last picture shows the boat I am building. I don't think the hardtop is factory but I really like the looks of it. So I will attempt a scratch built hard top. I will update soon. Thanks, RR P.S. We got my Mom a new condo and this is looking out her back patio I Love it!!!
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ River Rat
    14 days ago
    64 Posts
    Watercat M12 (Jurmo Class) landing craft
    Decided to have a go at building a Watercat M12 as I have recently brought a couple of 28mm jet drives, yet to arrive! and wanted a craft to fit them in. The model will be semi- scale and I intend to modify the stern's deadrise to ensure both jet intakes keep in the water when turning a deep v stern may cause ventilation on turns. upscaled the plans available to make a craft around 35.5in (90cm).
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง CB90
    14 days ago
    8 Posts
    NQD PX-16
    Hi Shipmates, After many years I finally found one at a good price ยฃ20 plus ยฃ10 p&p on good old Ebay. I have a load of hardware sitting around, motors rudders etc. So I decided to play about with this boat. Generally it is considered a waste of time and money to do anything with these boats. So I don't expect any 'Likes' on this project, its a bit of a daft thing to do. Information about 32in long twin stepped catamaran hull, beam 9.25 inches, thin ABS plastic. First stage. Unpack and check, strip out all of the hardware, generally unscrew components, most difficult thing was removing the propeller shafts. Second stage wash hull with warm soapy water (in the Bath) and remove stickers.
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง CB90
    14 days ago
    22 Posts
    CGINGA IV
    I am pushing the boat out really early in fact in its embryonic stage for this build blog and I might regret it but hope not. It has been my dream of some weeks that my preferred build for the future would be a great looking motor sailor and the one I settled on was Inga 1v and with encouragement from roycv who has in his harbour a splendid example set the ball rolling. There does not seem to be much interest out there for this model mainly due to there being is no kits available, nor plans, nor plastic hulls being produced simply lots of pictures and of course some beautiful completed models. First step and many thanks to tiggy_cat for sending me a set of plans for this model which arrived today. They are produced by Revell and are for the topsides which is great but leaves me with one of the challenges of my life that of drawing, stealing, borrowing whatever a plan of the hull shape. I fear that if I attempt to accurately draw the frames for the hull it might end sailing sideways. Anyway as somebody once said `I have started so I will finish` interested then watch this space. Regards ChrisG
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisG
    14 days ago
    11 Posts
    Clinker built sailing dinghy
    A few years ago I saw a couple of Adamcraft sailing dinghys and was taken with the simplicity of their appearance on the water. More recently there was an article about Adamcraft in the Model Boats magazine (Sept 2023) which rekindled my interest. A search of the Sarik plans catalogue on-line came up with MM153, an 21" clinker built dinghy which looked similar to the Adamcraft model. A few days, and a few pounds later, the two sheet printed plan arrived. Studying the plan, I soon realised that what looks to be a simple boat when its completed, is far from simple when it comes to construction. This wasn't helped by the fact that the plan was originally published in the Model Mechanic Magazine" July 1948. Some details are missing from the plan, no doubt covered in more detail in the magazine, but I couldn't find a back issue of that mag! However, I like a challenge! The first issue to resolve was the overall size. The plan is drawn at 1/8th scale giving an overall length of 21". I decided to scale it up to 1/6th scale giving an overall length of 28" (710mm) as I find small boats struggle a bit on choppy water. The larger size should give more stability while still being relatively easy to transport. Down to the local printshop who scanned the plan and provided me with two .jpg files. These I was able to rescale on my PC. Many of the enlarged parts, like the bulkheads will fit onto an A4 sheet so I was able to print those as templates using my inkjet printer. Other part outlines don't need to be printed full size as they can be marked out directly onto the timber using the dimensions on the plan (suitably scaled of course!). As the plan was drawn pre metrication the original dimensions are all imperial. I don't like trying to measure out 3 11/16" or 1 25/32" not to mention having to scale those dimensions from 1/8th scale to 1/6th so a few minutes (hours?) with a spreadsheet and I had the required measurements scaled and converted to metric equivalents. The metric dimensions were then added to the plan in red ink, before printing out working copies. Next, I'll finally be able to start cutting some timber! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-I-M6X-4A4
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Graham93
    15 days ago
    1 Post
    Tyne lifeboat City of Sheffield
    This blog details the refurbishment of a 1/12th scale Tyne class lifeboat that depicts the original boat as was named in a ceremony by Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent on Friday 28th July at 2.00 pm 1989 at Scotch Head Whitby. The boat was built originally by a friend of a club member a good few years ago, and was in need of a complete restoration. On purchasing the boat it still looked the part with no particular damage so the basics were good I felt it just needed repaint and new fittings. The original build was not from a kit, but a bare hull and deck and everything else either scratch built or from commercially available stock. The mechanics worked very smoothly once I had paired a new receiver to my transmitter as did all the lighting and radar. Even though I feel it was now well used and very 90s ish technology. So thatโ€™s the intro here are the first photos I had from mid 2023, the boat was then shelved until Feb 2024 when I was ready to tackle her.
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Rogal118
    16 days ago
    18 Posts
    1965 Sterling Yacht America
    My last words were "Complete the 44' MLB, then work on a non-boat project." The problem was, as you can see in the back-round inside that large sailboat hull, a 110' WPB patrol boat hull, with plans, not seen, the gunboat Philadelphia in a box in the truck, on top of that in the backseat is the 75% finished hull of a PBY flying boat. There are also unbuilt R/C aircraft kits X2 somewhere in the area, plus two ARF aircraft. (DHC-2 Beaver, and a Cessna 182, also in that ship's hull.) But my friends, last night I had a dream, and in it was of a gloss black, full rigged sailing yacht. Reasons, number one, the hull is straight and already built, I purposely purchased a hand-held sewing machine for sails, I figure i will need it for the Philadelphia as well. So, this week we begin, the rigging, and instructions for the same are pretty clear. I included that note from "Rob", because "Mark, or Rob" if you are out there, your "once vision" will be challenging the British in about nine months. I hope Fair Winds are in all of our futures. Kevin
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ KevinH
    17 days ago
    1 Post
    Speed Boat
    I haven't posted for a while so just a little update .My brother gave me a Toys Are Us r/c boat that his boys had I've had it hidden away for a long time his boys completely destroyed the boat .Rudder broken off Speed control melted Motor mounts smashed . Boys will be Boys I guess My fellow model boat club members will say I've gone to the dark side with a speed boat. Replace rudder, speed control, Transmitter , receiver , battery & motor mount , I also needed to get into the hull & find a away to keep it together & water resistant . I know The photo of King Charles isn't model boat related but Canada has changed portrait on our change got a quarter a few day's ago for 2024
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ GARTH
    20 days ago
    16 Posts
    Mantua Bruma - with possible conversion to sail
    After weeks of waiting for the kit to be delivered from Italy I re-ordered instead from Cornwall Model Boats and received it next day. The box was smaller than the one for my Riva but at a quick glance all the parts seem to be there. Now that I have received the kit for this motor sailor I can start to plan how to attach a detachable keel and a detachable extension to the rudder. There is an optional motorisation pack available which uses one motor but drives two props through a gear system. Myself and Roycv are thinking of using 2 separate motors but I'll check space available. Not sure whether with potentially 3 sails we can get away with one winch because it looks like space is at a premium. I must say the Amati Italian Runabout kit had very much clearer build instructions than this kit with lots of photos of various stages. Before I can start building this I need to resolve a problem with my newly fitted fireboat's fire monitors! Hopefully my blog will help to fill in missing information. It might be a slow build log because I'm limited with pains in my hands how much I can do at a time - so to those followers please be patient! Some photos of the box content:-
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง DuncanP
    23 days ago
    23 Posts
    American torpedo boat Spanish American war
    This is a new thread of my refurbishing of an old ship model that was built back in the 1980's or so. Background: I managed to get this model when a fellow boat modeler knew that I have multiple scale RC powered boats and would be the right person to give it to. This was during a sailboat regatta and I was videoing the races from my big fishing trawler using a GOPRO camera. The story goes that this particular person had the boat built, wired and fitted professionally. It is a huge model spanning 76 inches in length and weighing 35 lbs fully loaded ( of which 21 lbs were lead acid batteries ; six of them ). however, that person passed away years ago and after a while, his widow needed to clean up the house and was about to trash all the models into the dumpster. Fellow modelers were able to save two of his huge boats. One being the German U99 submarine that went to a collector in Texas and the second was this un named old ship. It languished for years in a garage. The person that saved it was not interested in powered RC boats, but kept it. Apparently there was an email offering this model for sale back then, but I have no idea what came of it or when it was written, nor any details as to what it was. So what is it? next thread Isaac
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Isaac
    24 days ago
    24 Posts
    Caldercraft Northlight Clyde Puffer.
    Hi yโ€™all. I have been eyeing a few Caldercraft kits for some timeโ€ฆ.the Alte Liebe, Sir Kay, Crumbrae and Clyde puffer have been on my radar for some timeโ€ฆbut unfortunately Iโ€™m cheap, and the Caldercraft kits arenโ€™t. Anyway, I had sold a boat and a kit out of my stash to supplement my slice of the Christmas budget when a club mate offered to sell me his unbuilt Portgarth tug. I thought about it, but the expense and size of the boat was a little more than I wanted to deal with. That and that brass mast! Well, long story short, after I politely turned down the Portgarth, my buddy said he had a Caldercraft Clyde Puffer heโ€™d part with. Itโ€™s and older kit, looks like itโ€™s all thereโ€ฆand the price of entry was about half of a new one. Sold!! He was very honest about this kit. Itโ€™s an older kit, some wood parts machine cut with part numbers inked on, the upper decks are printwood. Itโ€™s missing a few nuts and bolts, and the molded hatch cover, but everything else is there , including about a half million white metal fittings, which came carded and shrink wrapped. The fittings are of pretty good quality, better than the last Deans kit I built. The hull had taken a โ€œsetโ€ due to lying around for 20 years or so, but some tape in tension and slight heat from a heat gun and an overnight rest cured that. So, itโ€™s time to build!! First thing I did was to build up my stuffing box. The one in the kit is fine, but I wanted one a little longer and unplated so I could solder on a lube tube. I wanted a good mechanical fit, so instead of soldering on a tube then drilling the stuffing box, I drilled the box first, and selected a brass tube that would just fit in the hole. I pressed it in, making sure I cleared the shaft, and silver soldered it in place. I use a mini grease gun from Pro Boat that will give enough pressure to have grease squeeze out between the ends of the tube and the shaft, so a good mechanical fit and silver solder are a must. I then cleaned the interior of the hull with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner, and gave it a quick sanding once dry. Caldercraft made sure the builder knew that the hull is a polyester resin hull, not epoxyglass, so I wanted to make sure the glues I use would work.Stabilit works well, and I read that epoxy will work with some prep. I made a very small batch of 5 minute and microballoons, and pick a place in the hull to experiment. Once my sample dried I tried to peel it off but itโ€™s on there for good. Cool!! I have Stabilit, epoxy and ca, weโ€™re good!! I installed the front and aft bulkheads next, I drilled a large hole for the stuffing box in the aft bulkhead before the install. Once I had the aft hole drilled ( and fixed), I was able to move the tube to its proper height. I then cut 2 thin ply scab patches and drilled them to fit the tube. I installed the tube with one patch aft and one forward of the bulkhead. Once I had the shaft where I wanted it, I packed up the tube with scrap, tacked it at the aft of the hull and the bulkhead with ca, and once satisfied with the fit installed the scab patches with a liberal dose of epoxy, sandwiching the tube and bulkhead together. I then filled the aft end with filled epoxy. I built up a motor mount from 3mm abs sheet and ply, and once everything was lined up, installed the mount and a Zippkits 650kv motor. I wonโ€™t go into too many specifics about the rudder, if you look at the pics you can see itโ€™s a bit of work. The lower skeg is bolted to the hull by 3 screws, those were missing so I used socket headed servo mounting screws, 2 from one side and 1 from the other. I then added the rudder post and rudder, the post has a screw built in that goes thru the hull and is secured by a nut inside the hull, itโ€™s supposed to be joined to the skeg with a small nut and bolt, but I used a brass pin glued in place. It works pretty good! Looks finicky but came out better than I expected. The last thing I did was to add the aft deck. Now, the plans show servo bearers installed and the servo is mounted to the bottom of the bearers, with the screws coming up from the bottom. Unfortunately once the assembly is glued in placeโ€ฆyouโ€™ll never be able to replace the servo without major surgery. What I did was I made spacers to drop the bearers, and once I had that assembly epoxied in place I installed the deck. I can now install the servo at the right height and can replace or service the servo if needed. Thatโ€™s all for now. My next steps are the stringers for the hatch, main deck, and fwd deck. Cash
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Cashrc
    24 days ago
    1 Post
    Air boat
    Aquired as a wreck and now fitted with new motor etc. ,now ready for some light hearted fun on the lake
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Peewit83
    25 days ago
    2 Posts
    Barge / Lighter
    This build almost complete to compliment the Bangkok tug. Measuring 750mm L x 200mm beam x 100mm depth with laden draft Approx 65 mm. Mixed ballasting- roof flashing lead, water tank, and two shallow trays of aquarium gravel glued with PVA. Pretty heavy and not too sure if a tad top heavy. Sea trials in late March
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Peewit83
    25 days ago
    7 Posts
    DAMEN SEA AXE
    Couldn't resist this, spotted this for ยฃ20 & picked up tonight for a winter project, as if I didn't have enough . Came with a 600 brushed motor, additional tamya plugs and additional prop. Needs a bit of TLC and a makeover, possibly looking at the sea rescue version but no decision yet. Watch this space
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Doogle
    26 days ago
    4 Posts
    Gravy boat
    A fun project to hopefully bring a smile . Picked this up for the grand sum of ยฃ2.99. A "bit " unsteady afloat, however some ballast will sort this out. Initial problem is trying to make a suitable hole for the prop shaft in the ceramic. Think I need to invest in some new drill bits as taking longer than I thought it would. More to follow
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Doogle
    26 days ago
    8 Posts
    Building a Scale Model "Springer" push boat
    Many of us have seen or heard of the "Springer" push boat (a.k.a., tug, truckable boat, etc.). Most of them are not scale models but still built to the enjoyment of the owner. This blog deals with how I build "Springers" to look like a scale model of some real boats. I will deal with some of the issues as well as ideas for searching for you own "scale model Springer". Follow this blog as I build my latest "Springer", a US Army Corps of Engineers truckable push boat working at the Little Goose Dam in Washington State where it moves river debris to the "stoplog" gates. Lew Florida, USA Here is the introduction video: https://youtu.be/bZZJOWAsU0Y
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ LewZ
    26 days ago
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