Hi All, just thought I'd share a few picks of my current build. The kit is the M.V. Dante by Deans Marine. The kit is a representation of a fire/rescue boat serving the Euro-Holland port. Interesting first for me is using the guts of two standard servos as the motors for the props.

As I can't build at the moment due to the recent surgery I have had on my right hand but as I can type with two fingers. One on the left hand and one on my right hand I thought I would start a new blog on the Bob-About and show what I had achieved just prior to my surgery. As a beginner to RC boats, apart from boats with motors I wanted to try my hand (if you pardon the pun) at RC sailing. Not in competition but as a leisure pursuit. It was recommended to me that I might like to build the Footy and/or the Wee Nip so I purchased both. I decided to start with the Footy because being small I thought that it would be easy to build as a first sailboat for a person who, although had experience of building static display ships and had just finished building Aeronaut's cabin cruiser Diva, had no knowledge of sailboats and the sailing terminology. I was wrong. On receiving the kit I found the instructions which were on both sides of an A4 size piece of paper very limited for the novice and also poorly written. The plans that also came with the kit were comprehensive but not aimed at the beginner. I did point this out to SLEC and asked if they had other details and perhaps more photographs than were printed on the instruction sheet that they could email. Their reply was that the plans and written details were all they had been given when they took on the selling rights. The copyright of the plans were given in 2002 some 20 odd years ago. So I felt that an update was long overdue. When I commenced the build the first problem I encountered was building the hull which I eventually overcame with the help of forum members but as I progressed I could see that with my lack of understanding and the very poor instructions added to my frustrations and I was in danger of giving up and throwing the thing out the window! Well, with further discussions with SLEC they answered my queries and sent me some photographs that they had taken to help me which I was very grateful. I was now able to complete the building of the hull. Install the rudder tube and the tube to take the mast. Once the adhesive had cured I gave the hull three coats of sander sealer. When that was dry I installed the angled tube at the stern to take the cable and cord to control the sails and the servos were fitted in place. The boat now sits waiting for me to start fitting the rigging and sails when I can use my right hand. That in turn will be the next challenge as I have no clue what to do! Hopefully, in the first couple of weeks of April my hand will be healed enough for me to start again. Greg

I decided as an interesting subject to purchase the MOD Police Launch kit which measures only 400mm long. The kit was inexpensive and I thought as a beginner it would be a nice motor driven model to add to the Aeronaut cabin cruiser Diva I had finished building. Like the Bob-About that I have today started a build blog on I started this kit just prior to having surgery on my right hand. When I kit was delivered I was pleased at the contents of the box. Everything was there and the parts were nicely cut ready to be removed from the ply sheets. One thing I have to say is that the instruction booklet although well laid out with stage completion tick boxes I did not think that the drawings were very clear and helpful. So unfortunately I made a mistake when constructing the hull putting the transom at the wrong angle. I realized that I had a problem when I came to fit the radio tray. The part appeared to be too small and would not fit correctly. My added problem was that I did not know what I had done wrong. I contacted WMBC by email and explained my problem. I backed that up with photographs of the hull frames that I had so far put together. The person who replied said that they did not think they could help but said that they would send me another part so I could make a larger part from the one I had and the being sent that would fit. When the part arrived I made the part and fitted it and moved on only to find that the next part was also too small and would not fit. I contact WMBC again but they were not helpful. Now all this time this was going on I did not know that I had made a mistake. I believed the kit parts to be at fault. Following the lack of help I posted my problem on the forum with the photographs I had sent to WMBC. Fortunately dave976 came to my rescue pointing out that he could see from the same pictures I had sent to WMBC that I had fitted the transom incorrectly. Having found out my mistake I was able to order another part to replace the one I had altered on advice from WMBC. I am now waiting for the part to be delivered, and like the Footy, when my hand is useable again I can continue with the build so there will be more to follow in the future. Greg

My shed developed a small leak that damaged my Sea Commander. The water delaminated the ply used for the cabin sides. Fortunately just forrard of the cockpit so I was able to just cut out and replace both sides. So far I have removed the sides and the sprung veneer planks on one side of the front roof. I also need to replace some planks on the other two roofs hopefully by just removing and replacing the sprung planks. I am using two sheets of 1/16 ply for the sides as this will allow me to recess the windows by cutting the apertures wider on the cabin insides. Next job is to mark out the windows and cut to size. I can then use the inner apertures to mark and cut the new clear acrylic sheet. The wood glue I had has not stored well since I last managed to do any building so I am awaiting a delivery from Amazon with fresh supplies. Pics of progress to date. I will add to the post as I complete further. dave976

This is the story of Albert, a pond yacht made by an uncle in 1926 and given to me in 1959. The photos show how she looks now, and how it was in 2018 when I started a major restoration and rebuild. You can imagine the language when suddenly my yacht morphed from a hull to a few bits of firewood. In coming posts I will describe and show the history of Albert. Keep watching.....

Just having a play with an idea for a model of a early Russian KS 100D general purpose work boat. These were used for river work towing logs etc in shallow rivers . The water jet is unusual, as it has a rear shute with twin rudder type deflectors, and rear hull side ports for reverse (independent controls for each port). Someone on the site mentioned a steam powered water pump driven ship from the 1800s ? a while back on the site which used a similar principal. The boats were made by the Yaroslavl shipyard, and were very common in the late 50s till (I think) the 70s. Not much info on them but a few guys have rebuilt old ones for pleasure boats. They have a speed of around 16-18knts and used a Yamz 170hp V8 diesel. I've contacted (YT) a guy who has rebuilt one of these boats, and he has fitted the V6 version of this engine. My attempt is not like the original, as there is no info on the complicated internal deflector system, so I've gone with the next best thing using modified electrical conduit fittings with flap valves. Seems to work ok, but not sealed yet so leaks like a sieve. I'd use a 26mm jet unit for the pump in front of the unit. I'll have to reduce the diameter of the side outlets to get more force behind the jets. Might have to fit the unit in a waterproof tray with a bilge pump. as I think, even though it will be sealed, it will still leak slightly round the 3 shafts. https://youtu.be/7Lgb7hH6ln8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=altwiMdZlIA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWSI8moMeZg&t=33s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87PsJVdPNhE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ3U7XmeG1A (similar later model showing manoeuvrability) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hblw4_44FB8 The big lid on the jet is for clearing weed or similar which might get into the unit.

Hi One and All Now that I have finished the Wacht am Rhein I need a new project, I have the MMM Lady "T" that I have had so long that Nelson had both eye's when I got her, but I fell that some thing that will not take me a year or two to finish is needed, so I have decided to start on the Guardsman, again this will not be a step by step build just me rambling along doing my thing. Fred

I am building a Graupner Adolph Bermpohl does anyone have one as I need some help with the mechanism for the rear opening stern.

Hi all... A while back I was given two Atlantic "Tugs" (by separate people). One was in very good condition (but with the old FM radio) which I passed on to another member and the other is the subject for this post. These Atlantic "tugs" [sic] have a very toy like design, especially the hull's gunwale (curve) when viewed from the side. That being said, I would like to restore it, probably to another type boat as I don't want to start cutting the gunwale. to flatten it some. Now the condition of everything is fair and the hull is pretty solid. (The hole in the bow area is a chop job done by the previous owner to install a bow thruster.) Everything is dirty bun ca be cleaned up. It is missing the wheelhouse. I would like to re-use (modify?) the superstructure. So, here's where all of you come in. Given the shape of the hull and structure, do any of you have any ideas what this could be made into based on a real boat's looks? (If there are any real tugs in the style/looks, could you pass that info on to me?) Thanks, Lew

Originally scratch built in 1:50 scale using plans drawn from photographs. Obtained copy of Constructors Drawings to verify dimensions and details (dated 1959) and completed 4 more display models (scratch built). Rescaled all my drawings and plans to 1:32 scale. Computer Designed and 3D Resin printed all fittings (winch, portholes, anchors etc.) verifying accuracy against photographs and drawing supplied by current restorers of actual vessel (Villiersdorp Vintage Tractor and Engine Club). Designed and produced 2 1:32 Scale Model Kits (including hull, laser cut structural elements, all fittings etc.). I've just completed a "proof build" on one of the kits to verify accuracy and fit of all components.

Two or three years ago an older modeler passed on and left his tools, parts and pieces behind. As is often the case, the son had little interest in the hobby so advertised the items for sale. I don't remember where I even saw the ad, but responded more out of curiosity than anything else. The son and I corresponded via email a few times with him sending images of box-lots of what was available, Towards the end of our correspondence he mentioned there was a boat hull that he knew nothing about, but apparently had not generated any interest and I could have it for a few dollars and shipping. I didn't need another hull and particularly didn't need a 'glass lapstrake boat, but thought it might be worth something down-stream as trading material, or someone may want it. The alternative was it would end up in a New Jersey landfill. ️ I received it about a week later, checked it out, and shelved it in the "stash" group. A while ago I was idly thumbing through a book with page after page of study plans and blew by a launch-type hull that was carvel planked. A couple of days later the plan resurfaced in my mind's eye and I looked it up again and thought the 'glass hull in a 1:8 scale would be close enough to loosely emulate these lines. The inspiration drawings were drawn by a fellow named Nelson Zimmer out of the greater Detroit MI area. My apologies to Mr. Zimmer as I've taken some subtle liberties with his drawing, all the while keeping the basic profile of his design. His title for the boat was "Utility Launch" at 23'3" and the hull I have is 35". Close enough for my purposes. In this opening "chapter' I have drilled the shaft log hole, determined the log angle, and built a platform for the motor and drive pulley. Given enough room I like the timing belt method of propulsion as they're not real particular about alignment, (that's not to say some care isn't necessary to set up the drive,) they just seem to be quieter, plus one can experiment with different pulleys to come to a good efficient RPM for the propeller. Photos: 1. A cursory general beginning. 2. determining that everything is "on the level." (This of course starts with the bench the build is on) 3. The propulsion will be a six volt system. One larger battery didn't fit well anywhere in the hull given the open midships area, so I tried two smaller batts in the ends which will be hooked up in parallel. There was some ballast required anyway, so doing a tub test proved this a viable solution. 4, 5, & 6. The forward and main bulkheads. After the time invested in these, I decided both need some modifications. Once the forward deck is in place retrieving the forward battery can be done through the hatch, but it would have been tight with the middle open cockpit benches, flooring, and "stuff". Keeping in mind this was only a 23' launch the 1:1 main bulkhead was originally designed with the bi-fold doors as shown which was a help to access the engine. I'm thinking of reconfiguring this arrangement as well. I'd name this "Knot Likely", but it's knot a speed likely boat...

Well, here goes part one of my build blog on constructing the the Cabin Cruiser Diva. As this is my first ever build blog if I'm doing something wrong please let me know. I am 74 years old and have been building period static display ships, other models and model railways for some time. A few weeks before the end of 2022 I decided that before it was too late I would like to build a RC boat and a RC powered glider. I contacted Cornwall Model Boats who I have used for some time now and they recommended the Diva as a good model to start with as a novice. When I received the kit I first found that the components in the box did not match up with instructions. The kit is made by the German company Aeronaut and is distributed in the UK by Caldercraft. Because the original instructions are in German Caldercraft provide in the box a set of instructions translated into English. I said above that the components in the box were not matching up to the instructions. What I did not know until I contacted Caldercraft that Aeronaut had changed many of the parts and had produced a new set of instructions to match and had not told Caldercraft. Caldercraft sent me the new translation as a PDF file and all was well. So if anyone purchases this kit in the future check what instructions you have in the box. Although Caldercraft sent me the file they did say that the new instructions can be found online. The instructions are a Google translation which I have found in the past is not always so good but I found the translated instructions fairly easy to understand with some having to be read a few times to understand what was meant. I did get stuck on one of the instructions which I put down to old age because I just could not get it to formulate in my brain. Having said that, I was very lucky have made contact with the forum member Martin555 who took a look at the instructions and gave me a very good explanation of what I had to do. So if anyone else wants to build this model and gets to instruction number 11 and gets stuck send me a message and I'll happily help you out (or past you on to Martin ) I have found the build so far interesting and rewarding. The frames or bulkheads were easy to assemble as there is a jig provided with the kit to hold the frames whilst glue dries and other parts are added. Once a certain stage has been reached the jig is discarded and the build continues whilst the hull is support on the stand provided which also has to be assembled. You will see from the photographs the some of the various stages I have completed. I installed the motor and the propeller and shaft the other day. The motor has be purchased separately to the kit. The motor is held in place by two screws and the shaft is positioned from beneath the hull. I did find that I had to adjust by filing the entry whole in the underside of the hull to get the correct angle so the shaft and motor were in a straight line. Once that was done the shaft is fixed in place using Epoxy Resin glue. When the glue had cured which was about 16 hours I removed the motor from it's housing and then applied two coats of sander sealer to the inside of the hull to waterproof it as per the instructions. My next job over the next few days is to reinstall the motor and fit the support parts for the remaining electrics and the rudder housing. Once they are done I will let you know how I got on. Greg