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    Forum Topics
    RC for Submarines
    Hi Steve. Re Diving subs. I agree with Doug. I am a Submariner at heart (if you check out the profile picture.) but build all RN WW2 types. Definitely NOT 2.4 it simply will not work. I use 40 megs, and used to use 27.These frequencies will work ONLY in Fresh water but NOT in Salt water. I sail my U-boat in the local canal in Exeter up to a depth of 4 feet with no problem. I have an Engle Piston tank and auto leveller....Both brilliant. Am away at the moment but have pictures I will post on my return. If I can help please ask. I have a Gato Sub that I use 2.4 with but she is surface only so no problem with that. Regards Bill
    22 minutes ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Scratchbuilder ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    RC & Electrics
    10 Posts
    14 hours ago
    by cormorant
    22 minutes ago
    by Scratchbuilder
    Fittings for Aerokits RAF tender
    Have a little faith Nerys LOL!!!! Martin555.
    5 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
    Building Related
    27 Posts
    30 days ago
    by EdH
    5 hours ago
    by Martin555
    HMS RODNEY 1/96th Build
    Phil - I have pm'd you _._
    9 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ G6SWJ ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    Building Related
    53 Posts
    2 months ago
    by G6SWJ
    9 hours ago
    by G6SWJ
    Simple Smoke Generator
    Tim, I haven't deliberately tested to destruction, but I have abused the heating coil during development. On the whole, I have tried to keep the coil operating conditions as close to the normal use as an e-cig, i.e. wick wet with smoke fluid and an air flow over the wick/coil. To reduce the risk of the wick running dry, I expanded the smoker fluid storage by adding a reservoir tank to the original e-cig reservoir. The new tank is made from acrylic tube I had in my 'useful bits' box. It is important that the reservoir is airtight, otherwise the wick floods. The filler hole is closed off with a caphead screw and o-ring. JBkiwi has recently demonstrated a refillable reservoir with a pump to keep it topped up. I'm sure that without fluid, the coil will heat up more, and would, if it gets hot enough burn out. That will depend on how much current is being passed through it. I have let some of mine run dry without failure. The e-cig housing does get warm, but not too hot to handle. I assume this is also the case when used for it's original intended purpose. So not so hot that it would cause a fire, unless the current is set too high, in which case the coil would likely burn out quickly removing any risk of fire. There are different coils available, with different electrical characteristics. The ones I am using draw a current of around 1A on 3V. I make sure that any electronic drivers I am using have a current rating way in excess of that, so haven't had any failures due to the coil running dry or burning out. For the gunfire simulation I do run the coil continuously with no air flow for much of the time. That way there is plenty of smoke to blow out of the e-cig when the air pump is switched on. I haven't had any coil failures with this. The only coil I have destroyed occurred when I accidentally applied a fully charged 2S LiPo direct to a coil. It vapourised within milliseconds! Graham93
    2 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
    RC & Electrics
    5 Posts
    3 months ago
    by Graham93
    2 days ago
    by Graham93
    Flysky TH9X with OpenTX and AFHDS-2A
    Thanks for your answer, yes, I was binding the devices several times, and I agree with you, just changing the module everything should work, but the reality is that the new combination didn’t work, even testing a lot of different communications setups in the transmitter, may be the old operating system is able to handle that but not the open tx, but as far as I know somebody has this combination working
    2 days ago by πŸ‡ͺπŸ‡Έ Escrich ( Master Seaman)
    RC & Electrics
    5 Posts
    2 days ago
    by Escrich
    2 days ago
    by Escrich
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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander) πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
    7 Posts • 25 Likes • 1 hour ago
    DKM U-Boat Type VIIC U-552
    by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral) πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
    8 Posts • 69 Likes • 1 day ago
    Aerokits 1962 34.5" RAF Crash Tender rebuild, including interior.
    by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class) πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ
    10 Posts • 78 Likes • 3 days ago
    Just another, Smit Nederland Build!
    by figtree7nts ( Vice Admiral) πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ
    101 Posts • 319 Likes • 3 days ago
    row row row your boat
    by jacko ( Warrant Officer) πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
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    Vintage HFM Thames Barge
    by jacko ( Warrant Officer) πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§
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    RC Sailing - " PIPER 2 " Car Ferry / Landing Craft
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    RC Sailing - Bunkers Tanker " JUNO "
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    RC Sailing - Motor Tug "Miss Sophie"
    3 days ago by philcaretaker
    RC Sailing - "BROADSWORD"
    3 days ago by philcaretaker
    RAF High Speed Launch
    6 days ago by Purser1944
    Thames Barge
    9 days ago by philcaretaker
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    6 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ philcaretaker ( Warrant Officer)
    Crewe and District Model Boat Club
    13 hours ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Dave M ( Vice Admiral)
    AsociaciΓ³n de modelistas de CastellΓ³n
    3 days ago by πŸ‡ͺπŸ‡Έ Escrich ( Master Seaman)
    North Texas Shipwrights RC boat club
    6 days ago by πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ Cashrc ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Vale of Glamorgan Model Boat Club
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    Boat Harbour
    She is scratch built based on a grp hull to 1/96 scale. The boat is (more or less) as she would have been, immediately after entering service with the RN from the USA on lease/lend. The majority of the build is from plans with plasticard and the finer details (torpedo tubes, guns) is 3D laser printed. Colour scheme is my interpretation of Western Approaches camouflage.
    Built from a Trumpeter kit, scale 1/200. I found the kit to be of excellent quality with very nearly 2,000 parts. I upgraded the main armament to metal gun barrels and treated my self to a wooden deck - well worth the extra expense. I also purchased the RC conversion kit from Deans, which was quite expensive, but once more worth the extra expense. The only problem is that this was designed as a showcase model and a lot of the fine detail does not cope at all well with the rigours of the pond side. It is only launched on very special occasions
    Nora, the Sealab 002
    This is a boat completely developed by me, it's not a reproduction of any other vessel, I was designing every parts and adding them to the boat, it's a floating laboratory, in this case the alternate name is Sealab 002, now it's still under construction, once finished will be an RC boat, with a lot of diferent remotelly controlled groups of lights, video camera and video recorder controlled from the transmitter, and also it will have temperature and battery monitoring, confirmation of RC signals, alarm protocol in the case of signal loss, bluetooth or ESPNOW external monitoring of signals and so, by the moment it's the second of a laboratory boats series, the scale is 1/72
    Springer Tug with fibreglass hull and plastic card deck. The rest of the build I have done on 3D printer using the easy cad part programme just as a fun project to see what could be done on a 3D printer by a beginner. The Shottel drives I bought and are driven by speed 600 motors, also I bought the 19mm bow thruster. The lights are all working remote using a quad switch from Action Electronics the spotlights can move on mountings and lens are removable for lamp replacement, with the rear flashing beacons coming on when the winch is selected using the aux channel. The engine sound generator works from the throttle channel and the horn operates on the gear switch. As I have only one loudspeaker fitted below the winch platform the gear switch for the horn also energises a relay which transfers the loudspeaker signal from engine to horn. Speed controllers are fitted to bow thruster and winch motors. There is also a photo sensor on the front which brings on the flashing light on wheelhouse roof when a object is within 150mm from it(ie boat to be pushed). The names on side and rear are all 3D printed letters not transfers. And the wheelhouse roof is held on with magnets for easy replacement of lamps or resistors. I have also fitted with two receivers to work from either of my two transmitters for convenience if a rescue is required, while I am sailing with one transmitter then I can use the other. This is easily selected by use of double pole three position slide switch. Apologies for photos being a bit mixed up.
    Billings 1/40 USCG 44 foot lifeboat
    Model built from Billings kit, single 18mm brushless motor, 10 amp ESC, stock prop. Haven’t weighed her yet but I’m thinking in the neighborhood of 8 to 10 ounces ready to run, with battery. Motor is a little hot for the hull type, I have to keep her no more than a little over half throttle or she tries to torque over, but she makes good speed at that. Really needs a motor about 1200 kv or so, the current unit is closer to 2000. I built her as a lark, to see if I could make something that small run reliably and be fun to run, and I think I succeeded, from what I’ve learned on this boat I can apply to other smaller models and plastic static kit conversions of roughly the same size.
    Harbour pilot launch
    Club 500
    Basic Club 500 fleet. 3 confirm to rules and 2 certainly dont though also have one for curious spectators to try
    1/72nd scale WWII Japanese T-103 LST
    1/72nd scale WWII Japanese T-103 LST Fast Transport. Built 2004. Working bow ramp, and can load small rc tanks
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    Easy reversing switch for single ESC twin motor set-up
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