Name: Not yet established Scale: 1/60. Flag: none at the moment. Type of ship Type: Steam gunboat from the second half of the 19th century, propeller-driven. Sailing rig: Schooner. Gaff rig with two mainsails, two counter-mainsails, two jibs. Reference vessel: There is no reference vessel. It is not a scale reproduction of a real-life ship. Reference ship type: It is freely inspired by the "Unadilla" class ships, also known as "90-day gunboats", are gunboats that fought for the Union against the Confederates during the American Civil War. Major differences with the reference ship: 1. The bowsprit is a little longer than it should be for having a single spindle; initially it was designed correctly, then I gradually added a few centimeters (but it's a personal obsession to increase every time I reconsider the piece). 2. All four lifeboats were arranged laterally in the reference class, whereas in the model there are two lateral and two central. 3. The hull has a totally different size and shape as it is completely invented. The model has no equal in any existing ship. Compared to the reference ones it has a greater displacement as the central ordinates are wider. Although it maintains a harmonious and slender line, it is reminiscent (limited to the hull) more of a commercial ship than a warship. 4. The cannons (in a completely independent way I tried to reproduce the Dahlgren typical of that period) in the model are all placed in battery, i.e. on the sides, while on the ships of the reference class they were also placed in fighter (at the bow) or amidships, of larger caliber. 5 Rudder: The rudder is different from the original ones of the period, both in size and shape. It also lacks construction details such as the gudgeons and pintles. A faithfully reproduced rudder would have had little or no effectiveness in RC navigation. In hindsight, I could have faithfully reproduced it and, only during navigation, I could have applied a removable addition (perhaps made of transparent plastic) that would be invisible once underwater. 6 Propeller: The propeller is different from the original ones of the period, in terms of its shape and number of blades. Dimensions. Overall length: 111.5cm (1115mm). Length on perpendiculars: 94cm (940mm). Length at waterline: 84cm (840mm). Width (maximum beam): 17cm (170mm). Maximum lateral dimensions (including side lifeboats): 25.5 cm (255 mm). Draft (distance between the waterline and the deepest end of the keel): 8.5 cm (85 mm). Maximum height (distance between the deepest end of the keel and the highest tip of the mainmast): 65 cm (650 mm). Height of masts from main deck: 51.5cm (515mm) Predicted theoretical displacement: 5 dm3 (submerged volume at the drawn waterline) = 5kg Displacement (total weight) without batteries: 4900 -720-720=3460 gr. Displacement (total weight) with batteries: 4900 gr. (4.9kg) Dynamic features: Propeller type: plastic (with internal brass core) with three blades. Propeller diameter: 40 mm. Propeller pitch: not known precisely, however medium short. Commercial reference of the one currently applied to the model: Graupner. Direction of rotation of the propeller: right-handed. Axle fixing system: metal thread with steel cotter. RC features. Transmission system: The electric motor is directly connected to the propeller shaft without reduction gears. The transmission axis is made up of a brass rod, on one end directly connected to the propeller via thread and on the other end connected to the motor pinion via a fixed joint. The transmission axis rotates inside an aluminum tube thanks to three ball bearings placed two at the ends and one in the center. The axis line is parallel to the keel and therefore has zero inclination. In this way all the thrust is used for propulsion and there is no component that is dispersed downwards; furthermore the hull, especially at the start, does not undergo the typical bowing (the bow sinks during the start or sudden accelerations). Rudder: The rudder is made of a piece shaped with a 3D printer pivoted on a brass axis. The brass axis rotates inside a vertical aluminum tube thanks to microbearings. Electric motor: Currently it is a Graupner Speed 600 brush motor with the following characteristics: Rated voltage:7.2 Operating voltage: 3.6 - 8.4 V Speed: 18200 rpm No-load output current: 2A Output current at maximum efficiency: 12 A Output current at lock: 85 A Length (excluding shaft): 57 mm Diameter: 35.8mm Shaft diameter: 3.17 mm Weight: 195g Gear: forward and backward. Positioned as low as possible under the main mast (in fact the mast does not reach the bottom of the bilge but stops before). Radio receiver: Currently it is a Turnighy 9x 2.4 Ghz 8 channel with the following characteristics: Frequency: 2.4Ghz. supply voltage: 4.8 – 6.5 Volts. dimensions: 52x35x15 mm weight 18 g. positioned immediately under the deck in a central position, forward of the funnel. ESC with integrated BEC: ESC for commercial-type RC cars, very economical and widespread, with a fairly standardized shape and size. In this way you can easily find an identical spare part in the event of failure and subsequent replacement: It has the following characteristics: Brushed ESC 320A: Direct Current: 320A Reverse Current: 240A Braking Current: 250A Voltage range: 4.8-8.4V PWM Frequency: 1.5KHZ BEC Voltage: 5.6V, 2A Size: approx. 34x34x16mm/1.34x1.34x0.63in (without heatsink) Reference brand: bought on Amazon. Located high up immediately under the deck in a central position forward of the mainmast. Rudder servo mechanism: Analogic Servo 6001 MG da HobbyKing Features: Torque(4.8V): 6.0 kg-cm (83.3 oz/in) Torque(6.0V): 7.0 kg-cm (97.2 oz/in) Speed: 0.16 sec (4.8V) │ 0.14 sec (6.0V) Operating Voltage：4.8 ~ 6.0 DC Volts Weight: 56.0 g (1.98 oz) Bearing Type：Ball Bearing x 2 Motor Type：DC Motor Gear Type：Copper Operating Temperature：-20℃~60℃ Working frequence：1520μs / 50hz Size：40.7 x 20.5 x 39.5 mm ( 1.60 x 0.81 x 1.56 in) Winch 1: Sail Winch Servo 13 kg / 0.7 sec (360 deg) /55 gr. from HobbyKing Specifications: weight: 55 gr. dimensions 40.5 x 20, 2 x 38 mm speed: 0.9 sec. / 360 deg (4.8 Volt) – 0.7 sec / 360 deg (6.0 Volt) torque: 11 Kg (4.8 V) – 13 kg (6.0 Volt) operating voltage: 4.8 Volts – 6.0 Volts gear train: metal Positioned abaft the foremast, it controls the foremast boom and the two jibs. Winch 2: Same features as the first. Positioned forward of the rudder winch immediately below the deck, it controls the mainmast boom. Batteries: two AGM batteries, voltage 6 Volt, charge 4.5 Ah. The compartment is configured for batteries with the same dimensional characteristics as the FIAMM FG 10451 which has the following dimensions: 70 x 47 x 100 mm, weight: 720 grams each. The compartment allows you to move the batteries a little further forward or backwards in order to adjust the longitudinal attitude of the ship. It is advisable to position them all forward for correct alignment. If, however, you use the small compartment further forward, then it is better to move them backwards. The small room is currently not used and is empty. Instead of the AGM batteries described above (which do not fully exploit the electrical power of the engine) it is possible to use batteries of different types, such as 7.2 Volt, 5 Ah NiMh battery, with the following dimensions 47 x 24.5 x 139.5 mm, because space allows it. It is also possible to place one or more batteries above the AGM batteries or in the other free compartment forward. In this case the overall weight will increase slightly and the lateral righting thrust will decrease (as the ship's center of gravity will rise) but still in completely acceptable terms. The configuration should be changed. Current electrical configuration: One of the two batteries described above is connected to the ESC and therefore powers the electric motor. It does not power the receiver because the ESC BEC positive lead has been isolated. The receiver with the winches and the rudder servo are powered by the other battery. There is a fuse between the motor and ESC. It is easily reconfigurable by placing both batteries in parallel and resetting the positive cable of the BEC. Or the two 6 volt AGM batteries that power the ESC can be placed in parallel (with isolated BEC positive) and dedicate a small battery pack to the receiver and servos. Alternatively, one or even two (because there is space) 7.2 Volt, 5 Ah batteries can be dedicated to the ESC; in this way the power of the Speed 600 motor will be fully exploited (7.2 Volts instead of 6 Volts). If only these two batteries are used, it will be necessary to use the BEC of the ESC (not isolating the positive) to power the receiver and servos. I would prefer to use the remaining space for a smaller 6 volt battery to dedicate to the receiver and servos; a 6 Volt 3.2 Ah AGM battery, measuring 34 x 67 x 103 mm, or an even smaller and lighter NiMh battery would be fine. As another alternative, you can use a 6-volt, 6-ah LiFePO4 (Lithium-Iron-Phosphate) battery. As I recently discovered, batteries are sold that are the same size as the 6-volt, 4.5-ah AGM ones (i.e., 70 x 47 x 100 mm) and with the same faston connectors. In practice, the two cylindrical LiFePO4 batteries are inserted into the same container as the AGM ones. This way, while taking up the same amount of space, we can increase the electrical charge by 3,000 to 4,000 mAh (12 Ah instead of 8 or 9 Ah). Other solutions, aimed at introducing an electricity reserve, involve the use of an exchange relay and a remote control switch that engages a channel on the radio receiver (which has three free). Construction Details The hull is built using the classic frame-and-plank method, starting from a completely new design. The planking is made of double overlapping battens. The hull has 32 frames, connected to each other by longitudinal reinforcements (made of wooden squares) as well as the hull and decks. In addition to the hull, the following parts were built from scratch (with drawings and independent design inspired by images and videos): masts (including the cheek, mast cap, asthead, cross tress, spars, moorings, spreaders, gooseneck [parrel, boom claw, jae-rope]), both standing and running rigging, sails, ladders between the two decks, davits, compass, rudder, propeller shaft, pegs, gratings, skylight, cannons, lifeboats, lifeboat davits, anchor bit, large cleats, funnel and rear structure, baskets, sail hoops, rings, and padeyes, fife rail, cathead and pin rail. The following components were purchased and already complete: bow winch, anchors, blocks, deadeyes, belay pin, rings, steering wheel, propeller, hawsehole, cleats, and fairleads. Maintenance and repair details. The deck has four access points, starting from the bow and going aft: a small one forward of the foremast, one aft of the foremast, one forward of the mainmast near the funnel, and the last one aft of the mainmast. The first cover (the one forward of the foremast) can be opened by unscrewing four hidden screws. After removing the screws to hold the cover, the capstan can be used as a knob. The compartment is empty. There is no need to open it unless you decide to use this space. The second cover (the one aft of the foremast) provides access to the battery compartment and the first winch. This is the only cover that will need to be constantly opened and closed to allow navigation for battery insertion and removal. To open it, you need to remove the four cannons above it (the cannons are secured to the deck with a small nail inserted into the wood and four hooks) and the six screws. After removing the cannons and screws, you can use the large skylight in front of the lifeboat for support. The third cover (the one forward of the mainmast, near the funnel) provides access to the radio receiver, fuse, and ESC. It does not need to be opened for normal navigation, but only in the event of a malfunction. This compartment should be opened if you need to check or replace the ESC, receiver, fuse, and related wiring. To open it, you need to remove the two cannons above it (the cannons are secured to the deck with a small nail inserted into the wood and four hooks) and the four screws. After removing the cannons and screws, you can grab the black superstructure just behind the funnel. The fourth cover (aft of the mainmast) provides access to the second winch, rudder servo, electric motor, rudder shaft, fixed coupling, and propeller shaft. It does not need to be opened for normal navigation, but only in the event of a malfunction. This compartment should be opened if you need to check or replace the second winch, rudder servo, electric motor, rudder shaft, fixed coupling, or propeller shaft. To open it, you must remove the two cannons above it (the cannons are secured to the deck with a small nail that penetrates the wood and four hooks) and the six screws. After removing the cannons and screws, you can grab the superstructure behind the rudder wheel. There are 20 hidden screws in total. All the screws are hidden under the deck (a section of the floorboard near the screw is removable). Above the piece of floorboard near the screw is usually a ship component, such as cannons, cannonball boxes, or rigging. A small manual with explanatory images and videos has been prepared to help you remove the individual parts. Some parts, such as the ESC, require freeing the wooden cotter pins and joints before replacing them. The most difficult part to reach is the electric motor. To remove it, you must first remove the winch. To replace the propeller, remove a piece of wood aft of the propeller. It's not necessary to break it because it's secured with a wooden cotter pin, but the paint may have bonded the pieces together, and the cuts may need to be refinished. Before unscrewing the propeller, you must remove the spring steel cotter pin. A dedicated guide with text and images has been created for replacing the propeller. Replacing the rudder is possible, but requires removing the vertical pin and a spring steel cotter pin. A dedicated replacement guide with text and images has been created. Summary of materials used (excluding electrical equipment) 4 mm plywood for keel, frames, decks, and internal supports (for the servomechanism, winches, and ESC) Basswood strips (first planking) Mahogany strips (second planking) Tanganyika walnut strips (deck covering and gunwale) Walnut rods (all mast spindles, booms, and gaffs) Walnut strips, rods, and squares (internal hull reinforcements, cathead, fife rail, pin rail, bitts, mooring bitt, truck carriage and gunwale, skylight, gratings, compass, ladders). Other walnut materials (deadeyes, belay pins, blocks, capstans) Bass squares (internal longitudinal hull reinforcements, gratings) Brass (hawsehole, boom gooseneck [parrel, boom claw, jae-rope], various hinges, various rings, nails, handles, propeller shaft, rudder shaft, ballast bar, compass, chain plate, etc.) Miscellaneous metals (anchors, chains, fairleads, horn cleat, screws, hooks, bearings, steering wheel, fixed joint) Aluminum: Propeller shaft tube, rudder shaft tube, funnel. Spring steel (connecting bar between rudder and servomechanism) 3D-printed ABS and PLA for gun carriages and rudder. Plastic sheeting (side cranes, hawsehole, gooseneck [parrel, boom claw, jae-rope] for the gaff and reinforcement of other wooden pieces, funnel rings, gun carriages reinforcing the walnut wood) Plastic (cannon balls, propeller) Rope (of various thicknesses for the standing and running rigging, single and double tackle). Polyester thread (sail seams). Cyanoacrylate glue, various brands. Mastic glue, various brands. Paint: Spinnaker Wood Protection (all exterior surfaces except the sails). Humbrol enamels (hull above the waterline combination HUM104 = 7 ml; HUM33 = 6 ml; HUM230 = 3 ml, lifeboats, guns, mast caps, rings, padeyes and hooks, funnel cables, funnel and superstructure aft of the funnel, chain plate, compass) Poxylam 125 epoxy resin. Used inside the hull, in the hulls of all lifeboats, and on the side lifeboat canvases. Lithium grease. Reserve Buoyancy: It does not have sufficient reserve buoyancy to make it unsinkable. If water enters the hold, the model is destined to sink. It was not possible to create non-flooding volumes (with lightweight, non-waterproof materials such as polystyrene) due to lack of available space. The only measure to prevent water from entering the hold is to close the lids with stepped stops. The seal is also ensured by the presence of grease between the contact surfaces and the tight closure achieved with the screws. No water infiltration was detected anywhere, not even near the propeller shaft. It goes without saying that in the event of a hull leak, sinking is unavoidable.

In Philadelphia where I live we have several rowing clubs on the Schuylkill ("Skoo-kill") River, including 1, 2, 4 and 8 oar crew skulls and 10 and 20 oar Dragon Boats. This is a model based on the club colors of the Schuylkill (Lady) Dragons, which are also the club colors of our Philadelphia Eagles (American) football team. There are a number of regattas in Philly each year, including the Dad Vail Regatta, the Head of the Schuylkill Regatta, and the Independence Dragon Boat Regatta.

I know little about this boat it has fibre glass hull the aft cabin is bit makeshift and the whole rudder post is hidden under the deck its 53 x7and half wide 1/12th?

This was my first build, present from the wife. Not complex but it was interesting to start my hobby.. I think it was an Aero-Naut kit

I just finished building my SeaSpan Hawk RC model 40" long with 2 "Z" drives. 1 Year build. Early version. Now waiting to launch her when weather is right, (The hull has been in the water checking out the "Z" Drives for operation. it has been a fun and interesting build. My 1st tug Built from the deck up is all scratch built, there were no real drawings. Also found a cart to transport it on.

A new design and at just over 1 metre and 45cm tall she's a fairly good sized vessel. Twin motor with a gyro to help her track. Twin working stabiliser fins, bow thruster, spinning radar, ballast tank in the bow. Twin 545 brushed motors with 2 x 80amp esc spinning 2 x 30mm 6 blade props Last photo is Ai of what I'm aiming for as an end result

Built from scratch having just the vacuum formed hull from an old model. The boiler and steam engine are faux as our club does not have permission from the local authorities to run real steam boats. The Steam engine has been made to suit the space available. It runs via a 12v motor gearbox hidden behind the bulkhead see video. The boiler has also been made with some specific requirements to house the smoke generator. Filling the smoke generator with distilled water is via a removable screw cap. The boiler sits on a base unit. when the unit is installed into the boat power is via Magnetic Pogo Pin Connectors.

Another airboat, this time made from a 33" x 18" foam body board, and powered by a TGY3542 1000kv 38A outrunner with a pusher prop, and 3s 4000mah LiPo

A 1/5 semi scale model of my 15ft day sailer,- designed by US naval architect Edson I Schock in 1953. The original was built in NZ in the late 80s and I bought and restored it in 2008. Thought it would be nice to have an RC model of it, so measured the boat and made the model 1/5 scale. Model is made from polystyrene foam, shaped and f/glassed with a ply deck and ply lined cockpit and ply transom. Uses a HiTec winch with a floor mounted sheet hauler pulley system. The skipper is servo powered and ducks under the boom when tacking

My latest build finished in December 2026. Waiting for water in Spencer's boat pond.

This is a Thornycroft range safety boat Having had this boat that was loaned to a club now back in my ownership she was built in the 1960s the number 7112 is at the end of ww2 and served in the English Channel stations

MS Tomahawk is my rescue boat to help retrieve a disabled sailboat back to our landing pad.

This boat is used for training new RC sailors who want to give the sport of Radio Sailing a try.

This is my DF95 racing boat, which we race at the Black Mountain Radio Sailing Club.

This is my DF65 Racing boat.

So where to start. I took ownership of this broken, split and damaged Emden that had been in the club for many years. The hull is around 50 years old and had never been sailed before. Hull is a mystery as there's cardboard, plywood then fibreglass. Fittings kit on deck was completed around 12 years ago and obtained from the Deans marine Embden. I had to remove the original prop shafts and motors as everything was seized solid. I believe this boat was sunk when our clubhouse was flooded! Twin Radiolink esc's, rc helicopter gyro and a 12v lead acid battery 3D printed scale like props Overall she sails very well. https://youtu.be/0fmu3HIOO9s

So I had success with a small cruise/ferry last year. I had received what could only be called broken stl files. Overall it was a lovely design though had come from someone with no experience in the marine side of things. He had designed it though upon printing it realised it had a tendency of capsizing or splitting the back in the middle. So gave up on the whole thing. I saved the files and updated them all for a strong and more scale like hull. My small 40cm version was great and even though a tiny ship the presence on the water was incredible. I've decided I need a larger one for this year. The difference though is this build isn't going to be a simple stick together, sand and paint then get on the water. No this is going to be wood line the internal space then sand and coat in resin thus creating a smooth one piece hull. That'll add the extra ballast weight for me instead of having to add weights. I'm then going to hand paint her to mimic the real version though will be altering a few parts of the paint design to my own taste. For power she's going to be a triple motor. One speed 400 in the middle and 2 380 brushed on the outside that run through a Forge mixer for differential steering. There will also be a scale like rudder in the centre with the centre motor only being used for windy or rough days. A bow thruster may be added though thats not for certain just yet. Power will be supplied by twin 2s 1000mah lipo batteries along with 2 60amp esc and 1 40amp esc. Rudder will use a metal gear 9g servo. There will also be a Rudder gyro onboard that will help her track easier and fight any tendency to slide out The plan is to install working navigation lights that will operate off an electronic switch allowing on and off from the transmitter and spinning radar powered by a 3v motor. A Bluetooth speaker system for some music that combines a cruise ship horn and engine sounds. Overall she should come in at around 1.1m long and an auw of 8kg She continues to print as i type this so will add more photos as she continues to grow

A altered tug boat from a old deceased friend not sure if its from mobile marine it wasn't there's also it seems to be modified boat it has a very chunky prop

This is fresh off the printer and custom built for my local river. She will be the next first person viewing boat for this year ahead and will be powered by a 540 brushed motor running through a 40mm jet drive system. Forced and independent water cooling system, bilge pump and 5mm thick hull for bashing off rocks going upstream. Twin 2s 2000mah lipo batteries in parallel and a 160amp esc as theres no airflow Should get a maiden in the week of 7th of February 2026

So tuggy came about from a tugboat/working boat i see on a visit to New York many years ago as a child. The classic design remained etched in my mind and last year decided to design that same elegant form and print my version. She has a working fire monitor which is variable. It'll happily reach 25ft! And 10ft high. Working lights and is powered by a mighty 850 brushed motor which doubles as ballast. She has a working bilge pump for if used in the sea and she gets water onboard. An own design 3 blade high torque low rpm propeller and a rudder curved out an old Krick model stand. She runs very well and had in excess of 100 hours time on both pond and sea last year

So this is a mix mash. The original file for similar i found for sale on a 3d printing website however the design had lots of flaws and one that included a hole in the bottom. I got to work and addressed all the issues along with redesigning the hull to allow for a single prop and 90 degree rudder. She's powered by a tiny 1000kv brushless motor and 5amp esc. Runs on a 1s 1000mah lipo. She's now permanently in dry dock and lives as an ornament as she didn't work out as well as I'd have liked. As I type this her mk2 version is printing and is bigger, more powerful and has a far better hull design.

So I always wanted an rc version of my own Hurley 22 sailing yacht and it came along in the form of this little broken toy grade yacht. I stripped her internals out and replaced with a drum winch along with a standard servo for rudder. Reworked the lines and resprayed her to mimic the real yacht. She sails very well and with the permanently installed 2s 1800mah its enough for a weeks worth of sailing

Here is my Zulu. She is approximately 70 years old and had been a static display model in a museum, church and community centre for many years. I spent some time carving deeper into her timber, fibreglass and metal hull to get low enough to line with lead in order for her not to capsize instantly. I fitted her out with a simple return to shore propshaft and 540 motor though that isn't used often at all unless we have no wind. Her sails fly freely. There's no winches etc. A large 15kg high torque servo powers her rudder. No stick on keel here she is as she would have been in real life. Sails majesticaly and has great presence wether sailing on the pond, river or at sea https://youtu.be/0fh1gt9lIPo?si=KR438OkUGxrbHR2y

The boat is a Fairey Huntress by Slec.

Built approx 2005. Fitted with JJC Sound Unit, electronize ESCs and twin 600 graupner motors. Fowey 14-18

2 but shortly will be 20 rc airboats. I found a free stl file for a 3d printed airboat and got to work altering it with an inbuilt air tight section in the bow and a better laid out hull along with clean wire free motor and rudder installation. Everything is serviceable and removes with a couple of screws. They have a small gyro to help them track better and are powered by 1800kv motor, 40amp esc and a 2s 1000 30c lipo. Rubber bumper strip and the option for FPV camera These are for a new low cost racing league for our club this year. I say low cost as its £2.19 to print each boat. 87p for esc, £1.10 for servo, £6 motor, £7 propeller, £10 lipo! So £27.16 if you have you're own transmitter and receiver. The optional gyro can be found for as little as £5 though i increased the depth of the strakes on the flat hull to help them track better

New to the fleet this year and one i'll be sailing the most is this beautiful Robbe Atlantis finished in sky blue

Own design to breathe a fresh new look into the Club 500 style of racing. A sharper hull design for better choppy water handling along with increased manouverabilty. 540 Motor, 9g metal gear servo and 2s lipo

I got this model from a fellow Cofederation modeller member. The Model boat needed a few things, like a battery box area and a steering wheel that I'm still working on installing, plus a few other small things. I always like to have a driver, so I'll use my Dail Ernhart junior figure that I had in my duel cockpit runabout . The model was a wooden Sterling model kit that was well-made by that member. found the kit on Google images

Not sure what the run time will be with the new brushless set-up, so I've put 15mins as a start point; I know I can get 10-12+ mins with this size motor and a 3200mAh 4s Lipo in a 63ins span KK Super Sixty trainer plane revving an11x4" prop alot higher, so driving a 35mm prop in water at a range of speeds should get over 15 mins ( I hope...). Same with the speed - I'll let you judge from the video, but it's difficult to tell how fast she can go in such a small area. As for current draw - no idea at this stage, but I'll try and do an amp test in the future. The photos on open water are with the original brushed motor set up. I've also included comparative photos of original motor set-up and the brushless set up. The short video should speak for itself, it's the same one as in the Classic Model Power Boats thread. Best regards, Nick