Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Finest kind!

9 hours ago by Chum444

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Nice detail to add.

9 hours ago by Chum444

Forum

Dutch sailing barge

Andy, What a magnificent model—she looks absolutely great and very elegant out on the water. All your effort has really paid off; she sails beautifully. A real pleasure to see. 😎

14 hours ago by chugalone100

Forum

Dutch sailing barge

Anyone know of or had any experience of making a sailing model of a Dutch barge? Spent three weeks cycling in the Netherlands last year but have failed to find suitable drawings or kits. Thanks

2 years ago by AndyB2

Forum

Dutch sailing barge

Looks lovely Andy! You certainly deserve a treat and a 🍺

15 hours ago by Ronald

Forum

Programming a seaking brushless ESC challenges..

Thanks JB. I am pretty sure that my Turnigy Marine ESC is a re-badged Sea King as it is identical to some that I have with a Sea King label on them. One thing they do have in common is that no program card that I have will connect to them. I remember back in the days of the iconic Post Office Red Telephone Box that it was possible to tap the spring loaded rest that held the hand set to dial a number without having to put any coins into it ........(or so I have been told...!). This gave me the idea of trying a mechanical connection to access a digital sequence - strange logic - but nothing else has worked................... When these marine ESC are first fitted they are "programmed" to work with the radio when they are first connected together by using various positions of the throttle. My ESC has been "paired" to the same radio since my Rapier 1 was first restored during the Covid lock-down. I experimented by moving the throttle stick to the full forward position and holding it there as the ESC was connected to the LiPo , and then moving it between full throttle and neutral until the motor gave a strange tone (instead of the usual continuous beep-beep). This is a similar sound that can sometimes be generated when an ESC enters the programming stage when the continuous beeping stops. By experimenting with this idea I found a position that has given me a forward/reverse operation! Getting out of this sequence and retaining the new reversing function did not work at first, but eventually I was able to get out without losing this new function. I have returned to Rapier 1 a few times and powered it up and it has retained the reverse function! I will not be able to get to drive this boat for another fortnight or so, but I am keeping my fingers crossed and hope that this new found function will remain as a permanent (and very welcome) addition without having to change what has been an excellent ESC. Table 3 on the back of the program card (pictured here) shows all the functions that should have been available to adjust if I were able to find a way of connecting to my marine ESC. I will not give up just yet, but for now I am happy to have gained a reverse function without being able to use the program card. Bob. 👍.

23 hours ago by zooma

Response

Re: JUANITA STERN WHEELER

Mike, I’m 70 and retired, but the people I used to work for (Creative Displays) still call me once in a while to help out. To tell you the truth, though, most days I just head to my garage, pour myself a whiskey on ice, and work on my models until my legs remind me I’m not 30 anymore. The funny thing is, every time I walk in there, I have to pass by the shelves full of unbuilt kits… so I always end up planning the next project before I’ve even finished the current one. At this rate, I’ll need to live to 120 just to catch up. Och om allt går fel… skyll på verktygen! 😉 😎

15 hours ago by chugalone100

Forum

Dutch sailing barge

Beautiful photos Andy!

16 hours ago by AlessandroSPQR

Forum

Dutch sailing barge

3rd sail Sailed very well without the rudder extension - no leaks and no caught sheets Success !

16 hours ago by AndyB2

Response

Re: JUANITA STERN WHEELER

Mamamia!!!!! Where on earth do you find the time?? Perfect details . . . 👍👍👍👍👍 Michel-C.

17 hours ago by Mike Stoney

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Hello Chug-Alone! Time and again I’m amazed by the craftsmanship of certain members – just like yours! Really lovely, lovely details that are the icing on the cake!! Now you’ve really got me fired up to finally dig out the old projects from the basement, like the Optimist and the Bussard, as complete kits . . . But first we’ve got our maiden voyage on 26 April and the harbour has to be ready by then . . . . Phew . . .! But then . .!!! Your Michel-C.

17 hours ago by Mike Stoney

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Alessandro, yes it is 1/32 scale here is the link: https://www.modelexpo-online.com/products/midwest-seguin-boat-1-32-rc-compatible 😎

17 hours ago by chugalone100

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Hi Chugalone, I was looking for this information among your posts but maybe it's not there, so I searched online, is the scale of your model 1:32? Can you confirm?

17 hours ago by AlessandroSPQR

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Hi Chugalone, you built and posted this beautiful new model before I read and translated the posts. Thank you for sharing every step of the construction process in such detail, explaining the process with words and images. For anyone who wants to build the same model, you've left an excellent trail to follow.

17 hours ago by AlessandroSPQR

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Thanks Trev, Im pretty sure you’ll do a better job. 😎

18 hours ago by chugalone100

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Excellent Presentation! It should be a great help to anyone building this beautiful Tug. I do believe I used pictures of your build as a reference when building mine. Beautiful job! Trev

18 hours ago by pressonreguardless

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Ship’s Name The ship’s name is provided in the kit as a printed and laminated vinyl sticker. It should be applied to a thin substrate (I used a leftover piece of wood) before installing it on the hull. This gives it a bit more depth and a cleaner finish rather than applying it directly. Thank you all for taking the time to follow along, and especially to those who left very positive comments. I hope this build log gives a good overall idea of how to approach this model and can be helpful to anyone planning to build it. 😎

18 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Hi guys, This will be the first entry in another of my build logs. This time I’ll be showing my approach to building the Model Expo Steam Tug Seguin, a model that I’m sure many of you have built before, perhaps from other manufacturers. Since Model Expo now holds the licence to reproduce the kit, they asked me to build the new and revised version. Throughout this log you’ll probably notice that my techniques are not the most sophisticated ones out there, but they are simple and easy to follow—especially for anyone new who might be tempted to give this model a go. To start with, the kit is a plank-on-frame design with nine frames that need to be pre-assembled, along with the keel bottom, stern post and a few other sub-assemblies. For assembling the frames I used cyanoacrylate glue, which makes for quick, clean and strong joints. One small tip: make sure to protect your plans with waxed paper, and use pins to properly align and hold the frame parts in place while the glue sets. After identifying, numbering and gluing the frames together, you will need to cut and glue fourteen pieces of 3/32" square walnut stock to create the horn-type braces that will later support the bulwarks (the plank height). I would recommend not following the blueprint measurements exactly, as they are a bit too short for when the planking is added later on. As you’ll notice in the pictures, I made the braces slightly longer so they properly cover the horns. Also, be careful when gluing these pieces to the frames, as they are quite delicate and can snap off rather easily.😎

3 days ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

MAST, BOOM (DERRICKS) AND RIGGING: I usually taper the mast using a powered drill, checking it constantly against the blueprints as I go. Before starting, I wrap the end with masking tape so the drill chuck won’t leave any marks on the wood. I begin shaping with 80 grit sandpaper and then work my way down to 220 grit for a smooth finish. The forward mast gets a ring around it. The old Seguin instructions suggest using paper wrapped around the mast, but instead I used styrene strips for a cleaner and more solid result. Both the forward and aft masts receive three cleats along with the required hardware. I added these using small brass pieces and fittings to give it a more realistic look. From there, I moved on to the booms (derricks), adding the end fittings and brackets, making sure everything lines up properly before moving into the rigging stage. If you want to build this model as R/C, you will need to use an elastic material for the rigging on both the forward and aft masts so the upper structure can be removable. I used a black elastic thread, and when stretched over the hooks on the masts, it looks just like black rope while still allowing flexibility. Finally, I completed the rigging, keeping it simple and following the plans closely, making small adjustments to get a natural look and proper tension. 😎

19 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Companionway For the companionway, I started by laminating two pieces of 1/8" ply using a light coat of spray adhesive. This allowed me to work both sides together and keep everything perfectly symmetrical while shaping. Once glued, I marked out the steps directly on the sides and carefully cut the profile. After separating the two pieces, I had a matching pair ready to assemble. The side panels were then planked to match the rest of the deck detail, which helps it blend in nicely with the surrounding structure. For the treads, I cut individual steps and installed them one by one, making sure the spacing stayed even all the way up. After assembly, I sanded everything smooth, then painted the sides white and finished the steps in a darker wood tone for contrast. Finally, the companionway was test-fitted and installed in position, tying it nicely into the deck layout. 😎

19 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

Steering Servo Covers, Davits and Stern Grating. Moving along, I worked on the steering servo covers, the davits, and the stern grating. The servo covers were made from 1/16" x 1/4" planking stock. Simple parts, but they add a nice bit of structure to the deck once in place. For the davits, I followed the plans closely this time. They are made from 3/32" stock material and shaped according to the blueprints. The stern grating was built up from strip wood, taking care to keep the spacing even throughout. Once assembled, I gave it a light sanding, then applied stain and sealed it before installation. After fitting everything in place, the whole area starts to look much more complete and in scale. 😎

19 hours ago by chugalone100

Response

Re: IRON EXECUTIONER

More progress and getting closer to pond trials. Still aiming for this Sunday morning. Tomorrow the premium ballraced propshafts will be fitted along with her 5 bladed 40mm props. Some mixing to do in the bath tomorrow evening to get the steering and fwd/rwd finely tuned. The rest of the detailed painting will happen after the pond trials. Battery arrived in the form of a 3s 5200mah 80c though the motors will be limited to 30% power available. Estimated constant run time of around 1 hour Rc helicopter has been ordered for the helipad

19 hours ago by HappyHaggis

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

GALLEY STACK Next up is the galley stack. The main body was made from the 1/4" wooden dowel supplied with the kit, but I decided to add a small twist to improve the overall look using some leftover .010 brass sheet. Step 1 – Painting the stack The dowel was first sprayed with flat black. Once dry, I sealed it with a semi-gloss clear coat to give it a more realistic finish. Step 2 – Adding the top detail After everything had cured, I cut three small pieces of 1/16" brass rod. These were evenly spaced and glued around the top of the stack to represent the supports for the cap. Step 3 – Making the cap From a scrap piece of .010 brass sheet, I cut and shaped a small conical cap. This was then fitted on top of the stack, resting on the three brass supports. Step 4 – Final assembly With everything in place, the stack was installed next to the galley area. It’s a simple addition, but the brass cap and supports give it a much more refined and scale appearance. 😎

20 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

LIFEBOAT DAVITS Next up are the lifeboat davits. Step 1 – Preparing the brass tubes I used the 3/32" brass tubes supplied with the kit. Before bending them, I inserted a solid 1/16" brass rod inside each tube. This was cut long enough to leave about a 3/16" gap at the tip, which allows room to later fit an eyebolt. Step 2 – Davit bases For the bases, I picked up four small plastic flanges (3/16" I.D.) from my local hardware store. The openings were slightly too large, so I made some simple aluminium sleeves to take up the slack and give a snug fit. Step 3 – Bending the davits To bend the tubes, I used a small spring-type tube bender I had tucked away in one of my drawers. This worked quite well and helped avoid kinks in the brass. Step 4 – Installation Once shaped, the davits were installed onto the top deck. At this stage, I was quite happy with how they turned out. Step 5 – Adding hooks/cleats After gluing them in place, I realised I needed something to secure the cable ends. So I made a few simple hooks/cleats from 3/16" brass rod, bent upwards and glued to the sides. In hindsight, these would have been much stronger (and cleaner) if I had soldered them before installation. Step 6 – Additional detail The lattice work at the aft end of the upper deck is an extra detail I added after seeing it on another build. It’s not part of the kit, but it fills that area nicely and improves the overall look. 😎

20 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPOO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

THE LIFEBOAT Next up, the lifeboat. This is a vacuum-formed piece supplied with the kit. The first job was to carefully cut the basic shape free from the excess plastic using a sharp knife. Take your time here, as the plastic is quite thin and easy to damage. Step 1 – Cleaning up the hull Once removed, I trimmed and cleaned the edges until I had a nice, even outline all around. Step 2 – Ridge pole The ridge pole was made from a scrap strip of 1/16" x 1/4", shaped to match the contour of the lifeboat. This gives the canvas cover a more realistic profile once fitted. Step 3 – Canvas cover (masking tape method) Following the instructions, I used 2" masking tape for the canvas cover — first time trying this method, and I must say it worked out quite well. I started by laying down two strips of tape, adhesive side up. Then I placed the lifeboat upside down onto the glued surface. The edges were folded over, gently stretching the tape to conform to the shape — but not too much, as the plastic hull is quite thin. Step 4 – Edges and border I then trimmed the tape along the edges, leaving roughly 1/8" to form a border. This could also be done by adding a separate 1/8" strip, but trimming worked fine in this case. Step 5 – Tie-down details To simulate the canvas tie-downs, I cut small triangular pieces of tape and added them along the sides. In the early photos you’ll see three per side, but I later corrected this to four for a better look. Step 6 – Lifeboat supports The kit-supplied supports didn’t quite look right to me, so I made my own cradle to better fit the hull and sit properly on the deck. Overall, a simple part, but with a bit of extra work it turns into a nice little feature. 😎

20 hours ago by chugalone100

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

THE TINY SKY LIGHT Next up, the tiny skylight. This little blighter gave me a proper headache… mainly due to its size. Everything is made from 3/32" basswood, so there’s very little room for error and it doesn’t take much to throw things out of square. 1. I started by cutting all the individual frame pieces, making sure the angles matched so everything would come together cleanly. Each piece was then drilled to accept the vertical supports. 2. The uprights were made from small brass rod, which not only adds a bit of strength but also gives a nicer, more refined look compared to wood at this scale. 3. Once all parts were prepared, I assembled the lower frame first, inserted the uprights, and then carefully aligned and glued the top frame in place. Definitely a job where a steady hand (and a bit of patience) pays off. T4. o finish it off, I added some small detailing on the top to represent fixings/bolts, just to give it a bit more character. It may be a tiny part, but once in place it adds a nice touch of detail to the deck. 😎

20 hours ago by chugalone100

Forum

Question of the Day?

yea, I was figgering this wasn't a natural NICKTHESTEAM question

21 hours ago by RossM

Forum

Question of the Day?

Hi All, Given that it's always popular in December (and I've now figured out a way to get multiple-choice quiz questions very easily), how many of you would enjoy a non-competition based fun question of the day, each day? In a similar way to December's one, it'll be on the home screen each day, with four possible answers to choose from. Maybe a rolling leader board and linked forum thread to discuss questions (but not reveal answers until the following day). I know we're talking about at least 365 nautical/shipping/maritime/sailing/boating quiz questions here! But I now believe its possible to put together with little effort 😉 perhaps useful to onboard a volunteer researcher mind, to double check questions and answers before they're made live. So if anyone would like to do that, let me know too. Thoughts on having a Question of the Day? Stephen

3 years ago by fireboat

Forum

Sequin

“ RMS Segwun is the oldest operating steam driven vessel in North America, built in 1887 as Nipissing to cruise the Muskoka Lakes in the Muskoka, Ontario, Canada, a resort area with many lakes and rivers. Early in the 20th century, Muskoka was poorly served by roads. Vacationers were transported to lodges, or private cottages, via a fleet of steamships. Segwun is the oldest of only three ships in the world still carrying the status of Royal Mail Ship, and the only steamer.” Wikipedia “Muskoka’s steamship heritage is older than Canada. The first ship steamed Lake Muskoka in 1866. In 2017, we marked the amazing RMS Segwun’s 130 year history. She is North America’s oldest operating mail steamship. Wenonah II, a modern interpretation of a traditional steamship, is named in honour of Wenonah, the first steamship to sail Lake Muskoka“ https://realmuskoka.com/muskoka-steamships/schedule-tickets/

22 hours ago by Ronald

Forum

Sequin

Was reading my e-mails and came across one that mentions the Sequin tug boat by Chugalone1OO that got me thinking that was the first R/C model I had built in 1990. Then I remembered that my son got me another kit. I was going to use it to build the Fireboat Edward Cotter from Buffalo N.Y. Then I thought why use that kit .I had the plans for that ship so made the forms and kept the Sequin kit locked away for another day. P.S. We have a Sequin in Canada and people always ask me about that Sequin at Muskoka Discovery Centre 275 Steamship Bay Road Gravenhurst, Canada

2 days ago by GARTH

Blog

MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

STACK BUILD-UP AND DETAILS Did a bit of extra work on the base of the stack, adding some detail not included in the kit instructions. Step by step: 1. Cut two rings from 1/16" scrap, approx. 2 1/4" diameter (one for the top flange and one for the base). 2. Built up the inner stack base: 3. Added small 1/8" square braces inside the lower section These act as supports for the upper stack section. 4. Glued the upper ring in place on top of the lower section, forming the first flange 5. For the bottom (the part that sits on the deck): Added a wider base ring from 1/16" scrap 6. This gives a more solid and realistic footing Cleaned everything up with light sanding to blend the layers together Adding detail: 7. Marked out equal spacing around the flange 8. Used squared toothpicks to create bolt/nut details 9. Trimmed and glued them evenly around both rings Finishing: 10. Sprayed the whole assembly with flat black primer 11. Sealed with semi-gloss clear 12. Light dry-brushing using black and a touch of brass to bring out the detail Final touch: 13. Stack hold-downs will be rigged using the chain supplied in the kit. Quite a straightforward mod, but it really improves the look of the base and gives it a bit more presence. 👍 😎

22 hours ago by chugalone100

Forum

Sequin

Two more from Dave's collection, The Lackawanna is a Dumas kit next to kit-bash of the Sequin...I think? 😉

23 hours ago by jumpugly

Forum

Programming a seaking brushless ESC challenges..

Hi all, Thanks for the help with my Spektrum DX6i, now having trouble programming the Seaking hobbywing 60A brushless ESC that came with the boat, it’s running in forward only mode and I can’t change it. Followed the instructions I found online but it won’t stay in forward/reverse mode.. any suggestions? Video shows the procedure I’m following.

17 days ago by EricMB

Forum

Sequin

Garth! Without a doubt a classic kit from stem-to-stern and a high-water mark for Midwest, not to mention very pricey! Here are some shots of my friend Dave's Sequin that's in his collection. The builder is big into weathering his builds as you can see. Also, here is a very interesting take on the build...attached. Keep us looped in on this one. Very Cool! 😊 https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3015810-midwest-seguin-tug

23 hours ago by jumpugly

Forum

Question of the Day?

Longest answer gets the prize!

1 day ago by Nickthesteam

Forum

Programming a seaking brushless ESC challenges..

Hi Bob, find this page on Ali Exp (find seller) and see if any of the info for Hobbywing might help. Yours might not be a Hobbywing ESC, might might be a Flycolour which has another programming method. common types like Red Brick ESCs etc use this type of programming, with side menus using a series of beeps. see pic. Also, a lot of high amp marine ESCs only have forward (no reverse mode) HK don't sell these any more, so it may be one of those. JB

1 day ago by jbkiwi

Blog

New Moth MKII semi scale yacht

After the successful first outing, I've added a few more bits which I left off in case it turned out to be a total failure. I've added a tiller, cast some small 110g weights for the stern (to try and level the boat under sail), fitted foredeck coamings, and made a spring supported mainsheet block to prevent the block becoming tangled in the mainsheet hauler line (previously the block was on a cord.) It's now on an eye in the floor, and the spring keeps it upright out of the way (same idea as a full sized stand up block) but still flexible. I've also painted and mounted the 2 lead weights on the rear cockpit sides. Ready for round 2. JB

1 day ago by jbkiwi

Blog

New Moth MKII semi scale yacht

Haven't built anything for a while due to lack of space (too many models) but the urge to build something was too great. After looking at many options, I decided to go with something 'easy' to build. I found some full size plans for an Australian MkI Moth which I'm building to a MKII (double chine) style. I'm building in foam and glass again to make things easier. It's 850mm long and 310 wide which is roughly 1/4 scale (original is 11 ft) Started by converting all the lofting measurements on the redrawn 1953 plan to metric and dividing them by 4 to get the scale. Next was creating the ply deck, then contact gluing onto it a piece of dense 50mm building polystyrene. This was then shaped with a surform file and the chines shaped afterwards using eyeometry. Then the 10mm deck foam was glued on so the deck sheer could be shaped. Next the cockpit foam was routered out, and basswood sides and inner transom piece epoxied in. After that, the ply outer transom piece and hardwood nose block was epoxied on. The centerboard case upper and lower ply braces were routered out (using the mill and a 1/2" slotting bit) large enough to accept the case sides, leaving enough room for the 6mm aluminium keel (can't use a centerboard for obvious reasons) which will have to have a bulb fitted. A rebate in the bottom of the hull was routered out for the lower c/board brace. These braces are needed to form part of a box structure with the floor and cockpit sides which the c/board can lever on. Once everything is eventually glassed in, it will make it very strong unit, so the foam will just be the shape surrounding the box, and not having any strain put on it. The ply deck will take the strain of the stays/mast. The cockpit floor was cut, and will be slotted the same as the braces, then the c/board case will be built. The mast on this is 1.486m tall, - sail is -luff -11.295, foot 609mm, so quite large for a small boat. The full sized boat is a lot of fun to sail, so this model will be interesting to sail. Unfortunately, without the human input required, and being a performance boat, it may assume the attributes of a submarine in a stiff breeze, - time and testing will tell. The basic mast was made from 12mm ally tube, boom from 10mm. Sail pattern was cut from art card to the plan. All laid out on the floor to get an idea of what it will look like. PDF is the history of the Moth. There were a number of versions round the world as it went along,- scow, international moth (dinghy type) and todays high speed foiling moth. Lots more to do yet JB 2025 world champs, off the Whangaparaoa peninsula, just up from where I live. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuLhJ-yRLmc https://australianclassicdinghynetwork.org/moth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWkd2e8apSI https://www.moth.asn.au/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAifFN0RJ0M

3 months ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: New Moth MKII semi scale yacht

Hi Andy, boat is 2.5kg (was 2.2 but have added 300g of lead to the stern) and the c/board is 1.2kg, so 3.7kg all up. By comparison, an IOM yacht has a minimum weight of 4kg. It's not going to be a high wind model, but sailed ok on it's first outing with little wind, and showed no tendency to fall over in gusts. The extra lead in the stern might help correct the bow down attitude, which is how it's going to sail with no human interaction to balance it. The c/board won't have the leverage of a long bulb keel, but I wanted a way to keep it more scale looking, and enough to right it if it gets knocked flat. I'm hoping I can get it to plane eventually in a good breeze, and that the hull shape lift will counteract the nose down attitude if it gets going fast enough to avoid submarining. JB

1 day ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Artesnia Latina "Helen" trawler

Thank you Lew! It was what I was expecting and you did a super job. I like this balanced rudder layout a lot, because it us inherently robust and tough. 👍😊

1 day ago by jumpugly

Forum

Artesnia Latina "Helen" trawler

(I tried to post a photo of the rudder and prop but apparently the gallery comments are for text only ) Here is the photo of the prop and rudder. The prop is probably a little oversized for this kind of boat making it a little fast. So, I just need to ease up on the throttle. As for the rudder, the axis is about 1/3 the way back as I explained in the comment. This really handles well. Lew

2 days ago by LewZ

Response

Re: MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

My Grandfather worked on the Seguin. I've always wanted to build the model having been on the original, but unfortunately I have too many models started and not enough finished! I look forward to your posted progress.

1 day ago by Kennybeck

Blog

Fairey Fisherman 27 - Rudder

Well that was fiddly and couldn't be rushed! Time was first spent looking at my various options for the linkage given it's short length and awkwardness due to a relative lack of space and after trying a couple of options ended up with something I was happy with and was easy to fit and remove if necessary. The collar on the rudder horn is a bit chunky, but will do the job for now whilst setting up and later I will look at putting a thread on the short plain rod and using a domed brass nut which will look neater. As regards the servo initial thoughts were to mount it closer to the stern but this proved to be difficult as balsa would have to be removed both for mounting and providing sufficient room for the servo arm. I couldn't get any suitable power tools in and it would be difficult to accurately remove it by hand so I decided to stand it off a bit. To this end a mounting plate was made from thin ply and bass strip and the servo screwed to it. Bass bearers were then glued to the back and sanded to an angle to ensure good contact with the curved balsa forming the stern. The servo and mount was then held in place by hand, ensuring correct positioning and alignment of the linkage and then odourless cyano was used to glue the bearers in place. The rudder horn will then be bolted in place and the servo piggybacked from another model to check its operation.

2 days ago by ChrisF

Blog

Fairey Fisherman 27

Made the bilge keels from two laminations of mahogany sheet to get the correct thickness and then glued them in place. Once this was done I was able to return to the superstructure. Drilled the holes for the portholes and then glued the cabin sides in position. Made the forward cabin front window and glued in followed by that for the rear cabin. Bolted and screwed the upper support for the drop keel whilst I still had easy access. Really starting to take shape now but still a long way to go! Chris

2 months ago by ChrisF

Forum

Sterling boat models

My uncle and I both built the Scout freighter. Mine was set for RC but perished in house fire. I inherited his when he passed last year. He made his static. I’ll post pics. Not as great as your build but good. I’m building a case for it. I built the Missouri n in agreement the wood wasn’t great. I think I sold that one years ago. I have my Dumas Creole Queen just needs railings done. Motor, RC and smoker all done. This is my 4 th build of it. Previous were sold and one and the same house fire. For years these were the only kits I built. Then European vendors got bought n built. Your Scout is wonderful to see.

3 days ago by Hhager2

Forum

Programming a seaking brushless ESC challenges..

Turnigy 150amp Marine Speed Controller. This ESC is basically a 150amp Sea King with a Turnigy sticker on it when it is sold by HobbyKing. Today I made some time to try to programme this ESC again to see if I could persuade it to run forwards and reverse, rather than forwards only (its delivery setting). I am aware that many of the programming cards that I have acquired over the years (mainly for model car racing) need to be updated to work with different ESC's as new versions are released - so I bought yet another new Hobbywing programming card to see if I could get it to talk with my SeaKing Marine ESC as all my others have failed to connect with it. The new Hobbywing programe card arrived this afternoon so I checked the instructions to see if anything had changed in its operating method (none) and connected it to this ESC that has been running (forwards only) ever since the boat (Rapier 1) was restored during the Covid lock-down. This program card can be used with a Hobbywing ESC that has a common lead for the receiver and the program card (like the SeaKing/Turnigy 150amp type I have). It does not have to be used with those ESC types that have a separate programming lead - it can work with both types. One of the small sequence charts that come's glued onto the back of the ESC case are for use with Marine ESC and show the options that can be adjusted. (including forward only or forwards /reverse). With the program card connected in the correct sequence it failed to register with this ESC. The advice to reconnect after a few seconds break was tried several times, but the program card would not connect to the ESC and the motor just continue to "beep" at regular intervals waiting to respond to any programming signal........but there was none. This is the same result that I have experienced many times since I first fitted this ESC to my Rapier, and just like the previous times, I then connected the same program card to various other ESC where it worked normally without any problem. With this check repeated, I am certain that all of the program cards that I have connected to this marine ESC are working correctly, but none of them will connect to the Sea King Marine spec controllers that I use. ......but I do have one other idea to try.........🤔 Bob.

2 days ago by zooma

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Re: Fairey Fisherman 27 - Rudder

The rudder mounting looks good Chris. I notice this is another thread that has been duplicated and appears twice on the Trending Topics. Bob.

2 days ago by zooma

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MODEL EXPO STEAM TUG "SEGUIN"

PILOT HOUSE DETAILS Wheel Stand I started with the wheel stand, following the blueprints closely. The side supports were cut and shaped, then assembled to form the stand structure. The base was added to keep everything aligned and square. Ship’s Wheel Installation. The wheel was painted separately to achieve a clean finish. Once dry, it was installed onto the stand and secured in place. Final touch-ups were done after assembly. Interior Details The other items inside the pilot house include a bench and a small map cabinet. These were built separately and test-fitted before installation. Finishing Before Installation. Before adding any interior components, I stained and sealed the walls and deck. This step is important to avoid staining around already installed parts. Final Assembly Once everything was fully dry, I proceeded to install and position all interior details. Adjustments were made as needed to ensure a proper fit. Final Result This is how everything came together inside the pilot house. 😎

2 days ago by chugalone100

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MODEL EXPO "SEGUIN"

BOTTOM CABIN Mark the position of all doors and windows on the cabin sides according to the plans. Keep in mind that both sides are different, so label them clearly to avoid confusion during assembly. Carefully separate all the doors from the sheet. Leave the laser-burned edges intact—they will add depth and definition once stained. Dry-fit all doors and windows to check alignment before gluing. Glue the doors and windows in place before adding the scribed wall panels. If your kit does not include finished window frames (as was my case), fabricate them using leftover door material, but the new improved model has them. Add bottom rails to the frames for a more refined and realistic appearance. Install the scribed wall panels, making sure everything lines up with the openings. Use plenty of clamps to ensure a tight and even bond across the entire surface. Add corner moldings and kick moldings to enhance the structure and improve the overall look. Install the three cross braces at the top of the structure. One of these braces will later be used to support and secure the stairway leading to the upper deck. 😎

2 days ago by chugalone100

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MODEL EXPO "SEGUIN"

LOWER DECK AND PILOT HOUSE This is the approach I used to build the lower deck and pilot house. 1. I started with the front section of the lower deck, since that helps establish the correct width for everything that comes behind it. The same procedure was used for the pilot house. 2. I glued the outer thin plywood layer to the back of the pilot house before assembling it. 3. After soaking both the inner and outer pilot house walls in hot water, I wrapped them together while still wet and marked the window openings. You have to do a lot of checking while opening the window holes. My initial cuts were made inside the pencil lines, then I carefully worked my way out by filing until both pieces matched perfectly. 4. I first glued down the inner wall of the pilot house and then the outer. Even after taking so much care trying to match each layer, a final touch with a file is still needed to achieve a clean fit. Since the pilot house is a focal point, I decided to add some scribed decking inside. Notice the center post painted in black, as it will be visible through the windows. 😎

2 days ago by chugalone100