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    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Good evening Can someone advise me on the correct method to paint white metal fittings, the fittings I have, had been painted several times,so I have scrapped the layers off down to bare metal,do I have to prime or can I brush paint straight on. Which is best enamel or
    acrylic
    . Thanks Roger
    4 months ago by Rogal118
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    I found the enamel over
    acrylic
    comment interesting I have never had a reaction between
    acrylic
    and enamel paints. The only reaction I have seen ( to my chagrin) was cellulose over enamel ( do not do it EVER) enamel over cellulose is fine.
    acrylic
    not using powerful solvents tends to be safe over anything and once "set" pretty resistant to the solvents in enamel paint. However when it comes to a painting sequence I have actually used cellulose ( clear shrinking dope) followed by enamel for base colour then
    acrylic
    for details.
    4 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Hi Roger, Metal fittings of any kind and white metal figures can be painted with either Humbrol type paint (enamel) or
    acrylic
    paint,both will need their own primer, but remember😱. you can paint enamel over
    acrylic
    , but not the other way (
    acrylic
    over enamel). Most of the fittings I get in my Deans Marine warships are white metal and resin, I use Halfords plastic primer (grey or white) then use
    acrylic
    paint from various company's to finish off. Hope this is of some help to you.😊 cheers PeterπŸ‘
    4 months ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat paints something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or
    acrylic
    ? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty reaction when you apply the top coat😲
    acrylic
    s are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the brushes can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The deck planking.
    Hi Mike. I chose to use .8mm black plasticard after doing a test pieces with it and comparing it with another using card and I found the plasticard far easier to cut and fix, and it trims very neatly with a sharp chisel. No special primer required at all, the obeche strip is stained with several coats of teak water based stain and finished with a couple of coats of satin
    acrylic
    lacquer. It was great to meet you at Ally Pally on Saturday and compare notes on Crash Tenders, I hope you enjoyed your day out to London. Very Best. Rob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Cooling coil
    As long as the coil toutches the motor you will be ok if it is NOT touching then simply start agaain as it will b a waste of time.............................................With regards to your painting question simplest way is to go to halfords and buy grey primer with is
    acrylic
    ....if it is a wooden hull then you WILL NEED to use a coat of Halfords or Equivellent car laquer to seal the primer underneath ...rub down with 800 DRY then put your grey on top of it....reason for this is simple the primer is porous so you will need to stop water getting at the wood,if it is GRP then no need for this Dave
    6 months ago by Dave J
    Response
    Excelsior
    Hi Joe, In answer to your queries, Hull was built in the bread and butter system using deal sealed inside and out with coats of yacht varnish and painted using
    acrylic
    . Subsequent models of Wherries and Chinese Junks were plank on frame using 1/8” balsa strips sealed with resin,varnish inside and out, with again
    acrylic
    paint. Balsa easier to work with to gain experience - reasonable effectiveness both in carvel and clinker planking. All the best and good sailing. Gascoigne
    6 months ago by Gascoigne
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an
    acrylic
    bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Spray paints
    If they are enamels like Plastikote used to be, yes, but as far as I know, Plastikote changed formulae to
    acrylic
    , which, if their brush pots were anything to go by are complete crap. I had one that reacted with itself! I complained bitterly to them and they sent me every pot of enamel they had left in the office! Martin
    7 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Painting
    Ah! I thought Fairey might prove the exception to the planking rule. Well, it'll look nice, that's for sure. Paint. I always use enamel and my local auto paint shop will make me 1/4 litre tins up, of HMG, which lasts a long time from a small spray gun. Failing that, Rustoleum do some lovely rattle cans in a range of colours that spray very well and are only just over a fiver a tin. One tin would do you if you're careful. I've just given my Darby One Design its second coat of blue after a rub down and I'm happy with that. Dries very quickly, but is a nice gloss. it is a bit thin, so be very careful how you spray. Better to do two coats than one thick one. But really, if you can get it, HMG is the best bar none. Worth hunting for. Paint, alas, just ain't cheap anymore. Would that we could get tins of Valspar or Japlac, eh? The proper original stuff. Plastikote was a good paint when it was an enamel, now it's
    acrylic
    water based muck. No coverage and reacts with itself, let alone owt else. I would be inclined, btw, to do that curved deck in veneer, so all your mistakes will be made before it goes on the boat. in which case, once the planks are made and fit bang on, go up the edges with a black marker pen. it will look like caulking when all is done. Good luck, Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Painting
    My cabinet maker Granddad always said to stain the finish , never the wood, as stain can kill a grain. He would always use shellac/French Polish and then stain over that with a stain filled further coat of french polish. The same is done with real Rivas and no other boat can claim the finish that Riva always got with stain over Epiphanes varnish. I use cellulose sanding sealer on the wood, then a spirit based stain (NEVER
    acrylic
    water based muck) on the sanding sealer and then varnish, proper spar varnish to get that lovely glow. I have always used steamed Pear to represent mahogany in scale, but it does need a little darkening and that's how I do it. That way you control the colour, but don't "kill" the grain. Grandad also said , "always cut wood, boy, don't scratch it, make it bleed", so I became a dab hand with a cabinet scraper and use very little sandpaper. Here, as they say, is one I made earlier using exactly these methods. Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Paints
    Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints. Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer
    acrylic
    try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the resultsπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints. BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's commentsπŸ‘
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Paints
    I am a bit stuck as to what type of paints to use on my Thornycroft MTB. Do I use gloss or matt? What type of paint is suggested
    acrylic
    , emulsion, etc? Who can supply - say - 250ml of any recommended paint as I will probably need to apply at least two coats. I have already applied sanding sealer and undercoat and now need finishing paints. One for under hull and t'other for topsides. Any suggestions for a supplier would be greatly appreciated.
    8 months ago by Morkullen
    Forum
    Where's our mate?...
    Hi peter, 'Deck Blue' changed a few times over the years, there are lighter and darker shades depending on the theatre of operations and if detection from the air was paramount or not. Later in the war, when the axis air forces were largely destroyed and the allies had overwhelming air superiority the emphasis moved to the vertical surfaces to confuse subs and the few remaining surface ships the axis had. Then the emphasis switched back to the horizontal surfaces when the Kamikaze attacks developed. So probably the lighter Pacific variant is what you need for USS Kid at the end of the war. You are lucky that Kidd has been preserved as a museum ship in her 'end of war' state πŸ‘ if you Google USS Kidd I'm sure you'll find the museum site with more colour pics. Also, the display on different web sites will depend on many variables, for instance:- How the sample was photographed; white balance, colour balance, lighting; intensity and type - Kelvin temperature etc. How the photos are digitally interpreted and integrated in the web site. The times of 'The camera never lies' are unfortunately long over! Added to that is how your PC or Dumbphone/tablet displays the web site, similar problems;- Type of display, colour / contrast / brilliance settings etc etc. Power saving settings can affect these! If I were you I would use the Measure 22 scheme as shown on the colour pic and described on the Wiki page. That's apparently what the USN went back to when the kamikaze attacks started. Your basic choice is enamel = Colour Coats, or
    acrylic
    = LifeColor πŸ˜‰ Personally, I would go for the 1944 dazzle scheme cos it's more interesting and unusual, but then I'm just NUTS! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Hofbrauhaus is for the tourists! I've been there maybe three times in 38 years? Once on my very first visit to Munich in 1980, then, after I started working here in 1985, only with customers who insisted on going there. Too loud and expensive, there are many better, less touristic, ones in Munich. Prost allseits! PPS haven't been to the Oktoberfest for years for similar reasons! 30 years ago it was still fun, but not now πŸ€”
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Where's our mate?...
    Evenin' Peter, Thanks πŸ˜‰ Not quite 100% yet but getting there. Fit enough to answer your question I think, mainly cos I just bought a bunch of RN and USN paints meself😁 First off, have a shufti at this link, it details all 'Measures' up to # 23 near the end of the Pacific war. There's also a colour pic of USS Kidd wearing Measure 22 which was used on Destroyer Escorts (DE) at the time. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_ship_camouflage_measures_of_the_United_States_Navy In 1944 it was replaced by a Dazzle pattern on the Fletchers, Measure 32, similar to RN Western Approaches pattern, until 1945 when they reverted to Measure 22 but with the revised Haze Gray. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_US_Navy_dazzle_camouflage_measures_31,_32_and_33:_destroyers I also attach attach a colour chart from Sovereign Hobbies who took over the White Ensign Colour Coats range of navy enamel paints. Have a look at page 6. They are made by Snyder & Short from authentic Navy Paint Chips apparently. I just bought a bunch of them in RN colours for my 'Plastic Magic' conversions. Get 'em here- https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea/american If you prefer
    acrylic
    have a look at the LifeColor Sets # CS24 and CS25 'US Navy WWII'. Chart and catalogue attached. get here for instance- https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/lifecolor-paint-sets/43947-us-navy-wwii-set-1 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Steve, I'll see what i can do. No promises as the range of
    acrylic
    s is somewhat more limited as far as Naval colours goes. One way out is to buy some Naval Paint Chips from Snyder & Short. http://www.shipcamouflage.com/royal_navy1.htm These are taken from the original chips of admiralty paints used to mix the Colour Coats enamel colours. Enables mixing to suit from more basic 'standard' colours. Bit of 'mix it and see' involved. Testors
    acrylic
    s may be a better bet. They do some Naval colours. Also recommended by the HMS Hood Association. For instance; this would be good for hull and upperworks https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-507-c-light-gray-r-n-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-
    acrylic
    -paint-4870 This for the decks? https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-light-sea-gray-fs36307-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-
    acrylic
    -paint-4759 There are also some excellent tips on painting scale warships hereπŸ˜‰ http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/tips/hoodpaint.htm I've just been studying this for my 1/350 Hood, and just ordered a batch of suitable Colour Coats to paint her 'As Sunk' 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Just had a look at the colours you suggest on the Colour Coats chart and they would fit the bill. Looking at the Life Colour charts I can't see anything that's close. My ideal would be
    acrylic
    s and I see you have a conversion chart for Tamiya, which I believe are
    acrylic
    . Can you convert M23 and RN06 please? Thanks. Steve
    9 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Doug Just had a look at Life Colour which on first sight would suit me better with the
    acrylic
    paints. Here is my first attempt at scratch building. Nothing glued down yet as I have still got plenty to do before I can put the deck in place. The funnels are cigar tubes and I have a smoker in 2 and 4. I decided to lash out on 3D printed main armament but I still need to make the gun shields. Thanks for your help and advice so far and best of luck with your 1/350 - hope you will keep me updated on progress. Cheers Steve
    9 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the
    acrylic
    muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. it would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Italeri P.T 109
    I bought an italeri PT109 kit in 2011. it took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray
    acrylic
    of Grass Green with Regency Red
    acrylic
    for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁
    9 months ago by boaty
    Blog
    Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached. The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures. I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on
    acrylic
    but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do. If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful. I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁 I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😑 I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below. One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long. Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.πŸ€”
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Krick Police Launch
    I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to
    acrylic
    paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.πŸ€“ I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.πŸ€”
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Thanks, Doug. I really like the idea of simply using the exact same white LED for everything, including all of the colored LEDs currently on the boat. Coloring each LED the appropriate colors is the ideal solution. Glass lacquer is a great idea, plus Tamiya makes a translucent or semi-opaque
    acrylic
    paint available in many colors. Paints are ideal because I can control the depth of color simply by applying more coats. Another plus is that I can replace the somewhat cheesy looking port & starboard sidelights with more realistic ones. I like it! Will you please rework things as necessary to account for white LEDs as I’ve described? Things are coming together beautifully. Thanks, Pete
    11 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Doug. After spraying, how long is the minimum time before removing the masking tape.
    acrylic
    paints used. Thanks.πŸ˜‰
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    46Firefloat Mk2 paint
    Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of paints were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went
    acrylic
    and their previously excellent paints started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    54 year old Crash Tender
    Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. it starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some
    acrylic
    crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. it'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. it was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Painting
    I have always used rattle cans from Halfords and or The Range. Beware of mixing different types of paints i.e. cellulose,
    acrylic
    and enamel. I have had a disaster with mixing paints that took weeks to strip the hull back to sort out.
    1 year ago by Flack
    Response
    Seeing the light
    BTW; re your query about filler and
    acrylic
    paints:- Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊 Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using. happy filling, cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Stem Post & Bollards!
    Hi Donnieboy, I'm going to paint the superstructure. 90 Beige Green Matt - 150ml
    acrylic
    Spray Paint. by Humbrol #AD6090! This will help for the Tug to stand out on the ponds! With olive drab for contrast! But I'm taking my time with the project. Because I may also be going to put deck light. and running lights as well!
    1 year ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Spray painting hulls.
    Hi guys, I spray my hulls using various systems. I have an industrial 120 litre 3hp compressor, with devilbiss spray guns which are for larger areas. I also have Badger air brushes and compressor with 2litre tank for the smaller hulls and detail work. I sometimes use cans, which I usually get mixed at local automotive paint supplier. I try to stick to R.A.L. paint codes. Most automotive paint from my supplier is
    acrylic
    or water based. But I always try to use good quality synthetic lawyer. I recently tried a polyester based laquer but it didn't thin down very well. But whatever method is used for painting it's the preparation that makes the end result, and that's 90% patience and 10% skill. I certainly have more patience than skill as I've only been doing it for 50+ years. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Deck Colour
    Evenin' George, any mid to dark green would do nicely. Suggest a satin / semi matt paint. Something like the Humbrol 131 or 195 in the attached chart. Of course it doesn't have to be the little Humbrol tins (unless you have an airbrushπŸ˜‰) but a similar colour in aerosol, maybe from Tamiya. Type depends on what was on it before!! To be on the safe side give it a couple of thin coats of grey primer first. Flat off with 600 wet & dry then apply the colour coats. E.g.
    acrylic
    . Where on earth, and when, can you sail up there in the frozen North!? 😲 Good luck, and have fun, cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Cabin windows again
    Having remade all the front cabin window frames I then decided to fit the
    acrylic
    s into the opening (nice tight fit) all done! Or maybe not, someone then said how about β€œopening windows” it’s been done before. So would opening windows be a problem with water ingress? And would putting foam seals solve this problem? I’m not convinced. Having given the problem some days thought, how about going with the windows as planned which are now 1.5mm thick and inset into the surround. Then fitting an over window frame 1.0mm ply/plasticard with another thinner (1.0mm)
    acrylic
    window and hinging this above each window. This would solve the issue of water ingress and also give the appearance of opening front windows. Looking at how one other person approached this, it looks like the hinge was a brass tube across the majority of the window top and then a shorter piece the same dia tube at each end with an internal wire for rotation these short pieces are then fitted to the body of the inner window frame. These additional window frames can be added at a later stage and this doesn’t hinder the final finishing of the roof skins. So final fitting and adjustment and then pin and clamp in position the forward roof skins. When these are dry the window frames can be finally trimmed and then pinned into position and checked for fit then removed and then to each one apply the aliphatic glue and fit –pin and clamp in position
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    4 years ago I restored an old 34 inch Aerokits Crash tender. I used filler for any gaps in the joints then prepared the hull with sanding sealer having got it really smooth. For the rest of the paintwork I first used Halfords primer then used their
    acrylic
    for the final colours. I gave it four coats of colour leaving it over a day between each coat. When painting was finished and after checking it was fully dry, I rubbed the hull down lightly using Maguires scratch remover, (also from Halfords) and got a nice shine between the deck and the red waterline. It seems to have lasted well as it has not crazed over this amount of time. The total cost of the primer, paint and especially the scratch remover was not cheap but in the long run it did work. BoatyπŸ€“
    1 year ago by boaty
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on
    acrylic
    base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.
    1 year ago by andyhynes
    Response
    Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)
    Thanks very much MT, 😊 I may not be quick but I do try to be thorough! Used to drive my boss nuts, but I got results πŸ˜‰ Yep, saw that in Model Boats ( I have a digital subscription - disadvantage is that I don't get the free plans 😭) nice subject - good luck πŸ‘ Will watch your progress with interest. Next job for me is to cut out the windows from 3mm green tinted plexi (or
    acrylic
    ) 'glass'. Last step to make the Sea Scout waterproof. If the weather holds up I will drive down to Garmisch, ca 100km south of Munich, on Saturday to meet up with Krampus, from this site; for sea trials of the Sea Scout. Wish me luck, or 'Hals und Bein-bruch' (Break neck and leg!) as the locals say 😲 After 33 years I still haven't figured out why πŸ€“ Yesterday experimented with printable decal sheets for the nameplates! Watch this space!!! πŸ˜‰ Ciao, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)
    6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a resprayπŸ€” Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.πŸ˜‰ Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted
    acrylic
    'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Peter, wow 24 ltr tank 😲 mine's only about 10max I think. Yep regulator and oil / water strippers are indispensable for best results πŸ‘ Sounds like you have a nice setup there. Mine is the Revell Master Class with all the trimmings so sort of semi-pro πŸ˜‰ I also have two 'guns' (one single action and one double action) for large and small quantities and a variety of needles and jets from fine line (without the guts to test it yet😁) to large areas like hulls. If you go to a DIY place that the pros also go to (Building Supplies?) you should find
    acrylic
    s in half and 1ltr cans. For my 'grey ladies' (up to 1.5m long) I use the 1/2 ltr cans of RAL standard colours, e.g. RAL 1001 is medium navy grey, RAL 7035 is a lighter grey more like the RN hull colour. 1/2 litre thinned to the consistency of milk (low fatπŸ˜‰) does a lot of hulls and you don't want it to harden in the can do you! 😑 A good shop should be able to mix any colour you want. Take the paint chart with you and the mixer should be able to look up the mix code on a computer. if he hasn't got one - go somewhere else!! You should also find the primer filler there (usually only grey I'm afraid), if not go to a pro car supplies shop - you'll find the Protection Lacquer there as well. Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Thanks Doug. I bought some primer but can use on another project. I will find the filler primer recommended. I bought sanding sealer also for when I am happy with the preperation. I have a 24litre tank compressor and special regulator and moisture bottle in the line. I also bought a second airbrush with a slightly larger jet. I know that you are in Germany, but would I find the
    acrylic
    paint in large quantities in a decorating shop? Professional paint outlet? Seen tiny pots in the modelling shop but I would need loads of those. 😊
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Halfords do an excellent range in
    acrylic
    paints in good size cans, including Matt colors.additionally they will mix a specific color. Regards Kevin
    1 year ago by kevinsharpe
    Response
    Roof Skins
    That's exactly what I'm doing but the outer frame are the
    acrylic
    ones in the kit that are sprayed silver and effectively put a rim around the window.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Cabin Windows
    The front cabin
    acrylic
    s fit into the ply frames at the moment, (tight fit) now you've set me thinking. Another diversion!
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    HMS HOOD by Trumpeter
    Hi Peter, The Bissy was only in the Baltic for running up and training. in Unternehmung Rheinübung, foray into the Atlantic and the Battle in the Iceland Straight (sorry Denmark Straight), she would have had the normal light grey plus possibly camo colours, here, yer pays yer money and ya takes yer choice! 'As built' she would have been all DKM Hellgrau / Silbergrau (Light / Silver grey) #50 (that's the Lifecolor #UA 601) on the slipway. All the docus, vids and photos I have found don't seem to show any significant camo paint!? Only pic I ever found of Bizzy in camouflage paint is of the Graupner Premium model. Can't find any official record of it. There is some evidence of cammo paint on her sister ship Tirpitz, but it didn't help her, she spent most of her life bottled up in a Norwegian Fjord where she got flattened by Lancs! Cheers Doug 😎 Re Enamel: Maybe attached charts will help you find an
    acrylic
    equivalentπŸ˜‰ I will use the Lifecolor 601for mine. PS Bismarck had No later life!! One operation, one ship sunk (Hood 😭😭) and that was that! Can heartily recommend the old 1960 Kenneth More film 'Sink The Bismarck' πŸ‘ Stirring stuff Old Chap, stiff upper lip stuff from the days when we still had a real Navy and hadn't swapped our overseas bases for 50 ancient rust bucket WWI destroyersπŸ€” By the by: during my 32 years working here (in Naval COMMS systems) I was frequently in the Blohm & Voss HQ in Hamburg, saw several superb yard models of their ships including Bismarck, and many photos, but never a one with camouflage. PPS: as far as i can establish the 'Baltic light grey' was only used on the top sides of smaller U-Boats operating in the relatively shallow Baltic waters. Maybe also a few small combatants such as Schnellboote, MinenjΓ€ger etc.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS HOOD by Trumpeter
    Many thanks Doug for the paint info, I notice there are 2 hellgrau on their lists, one light grey and one Baltic light grey, would that be the colour in later life of the ship? it's a pity that they are enamel paints, where lifecolour are
    acrylic
    , could you suggest the colours for my Bismarck. many thanks again, PeterπŸ‘
    1 year ago by Rookysailor
    Response
    Roof Skins
    Like the way you're forming the skins, good tip πŸ‘ Still a bit concerned about your window frames though😲 I've decided to make the windows on my Sea Scout by cutting
    acrylic
    glass to fit the cabin apertures and then fit overlapping mahogany frames on the outside. A chaque un a son goΓ»t! πŸ˜‰ Soak On ManπŸ‘ Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Bollard Hieght!
    My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy frigate, probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stashπŸ˜‰ Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a Humbrol wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration πŸ˜‰ How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and italeri
    acrylic
    s. Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rudder servo in place!
    BTW: Oops I was wrong πŸ€” your clear ABS is not Perspex! That's one of the trade names for
    acrylic
    glass here. Your problem with the protective film led me astray cos I buy the stuff here in sheets 100x50cm and it has the same irritating film on both sides.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    happy hunter
    Hi Doug I agree the commercial stuff is not nice. I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc. It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists: PLAS1 Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate,
    acrylic
    and other types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush. Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle 2.00 POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25 POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00 POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75 PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50. There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas. Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible. I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Spraying/hand painting
    I have used Halfords
    acrylic
    when restoring an old Aerokits Fireboat. However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of
    acrylic
    , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss. I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁
    1 year ago by boaty
    Forum
    Spraying/hand painting
    Colin and Richard, the answer to the gloss finish, all of Halfords range is
    acrylic
    , so it does not have a super gloss finish like celulose, when you are happy with the depth of colour, flat back with 1200 - 2000 paper, tacrag the surface, then over spray with a clear cote, to give the final finish Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Response
    Costa coffee planking!
    Hi mate, bit late now but if you mix some black powder paint or artists
    acrylic
    paint into the pva, the glue dries black and simply sand the excess away to leave the caulk lines, no chance of wonky or lines that have soaked in too far. Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo


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