Event

Earls Barton Transport Show

this s a great transport show with everything from tr engines through grey Fergersons, trucks buses etc. Plus NDMBC Our home waters are on the Show site, so we have three days of great sailing on our own ground. Al set up for tomorrow, check our Facebook page

5 years ago by ikseno99

Response

Re: HELP needed on a hull.

Thames Barge only came to Devon on very few occasions if they ever did. Might build one day. But in to steam at present. Three paddle steamers, & tr engine.

5 years ago by hammer

Forum

Painting white metal

I found the enamel over acrylic comment interesting I have never had a re between acrylic and enamel paints. The only re I have seen ( to my chagrin) was cellulose over enamel ( do not do it EVER) enamel over cellulose is fine. Acrylic not using powerful solvents tends to be safe over anything and once "set" pretty resistant to the solvents in enamel paint. However when it comes to a painting sequence I have actually used cellulose ( clear shrinking dope) followed by enamel for base colour then acrylic for details.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Painting white metal

Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat paints something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or acrylic? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty re when you apply the top coat😲 Acrylics are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the brushes can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Painting

I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisf when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) 👍I was never 100% happy with this. it didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. 👍 the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/ http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

Hi Colin, Try this version, P94 for brushed motors, from Electronics at Component Shop. Only throttle and rudder inputs with automatic mixing. I have one of these I intend to use for my long thin destroyer, or maybe the Graf Spee. Or the P40 for Brushless, same operating principle. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html. I may get one of these for my PT109. heers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Roof magnets

Thanks for posting the jig with the cam , nice simple and looks pretty effective. I will have to try that soon on some current work. Cheers, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in with sound effects.

5 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends 😉) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁 Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in Biker. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Unless you are determined to build to scale, the single motor/screw combination is probably the best. Have encountered several challenges with my triple motor/screw Brave Borderer (the predecessor to the Perkasa) layout. Now have the satisf though of setting off to build a scale model and have achieved it.

5 years ago by Rowen

Response

Holy SMOKE !! Video, Tin Can Madness

Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

The bow blocks & outer keel

This was the part I had been waiting for. As I was only 12 when I made mine, my Uncle Cyril was given the job of shaping, and he made a right pigs arse out of it. I had to do a lot of filling and sanding to correct it. I notice you had the "glad it's over" re. I reckon my re will be very similar. Thanks for sharing Robbob. 😊

5 years ago by rolfman2000

Forum

Paint for Thames River Police Boat.

Hi Mike. Yes I have seen the that site and also some interesting Pathe films on YouTube featuring the Thames Police in , some in colour but you can't really identify the hull colour. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuM_PNrEElU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i69pxalB9-Q I would like the hull to be an authentic colour for the period when these boats operated during the 50s' & 60's. The modern boats seem to have a much lighter blue colour on the hull. Thanks for your suggestion though. Rob.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Sea Queen Frames

The seller doesn't care about that. And Ebay doesn't care about that. I have had this battle. Ebay deals in volume sales with some simple rules. So long as the seller is willing to refund unhappy customers they can continue trading. Ebay are not competent to determine what counts as 'not well drawn' for a set of model plans, and won't get into that argument. Ebay will go through a standard procedure if copyright breach is alleged. From their site: "EeBay has created the VeRO program to protect intellectual property owners from trademark, patent or copyright infringement. Property right owners register with the VeRO program by sending eBay legal documentation and proof that they own the specified intellectual property. Having registered with eBay’s VeRO program, these property right owners monitor listings on eBay, or they use third-party web monitoring agents that help warn them of infringement threats. When their rights are violated, the owner or a representative can file a complaint by filling out the NOCI (Notice of Claimed infringement) form, complete with proof of the violation, and sending it to eBay by email or fax. eBay then investigates the issue and notifies the seller via email that a VeRO participant requested that their listing be removed. The listing will remain suspended unless and until a settlement is reached between the seller and the property rights owner." Unless the Aerokits copyright holder takes VeRO there is nothing you can do to stop copyright breach. This makes me quite unhappy, because I would like to put the full set of Aerokits plans up on my Old Boat Plans website, but I will only do it with copyright holder approval. If you want to do anything about it you would be best advised to contact Lesro and encourage them to do something about it - http://lesromodels.co.uk/contact/

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

MK5 14'' Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship

Worked very well Neil👍👍 Technique noted for future use 😁 Any vids of your marvellous creations in available??? Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

Talking of glues for plastic I have a bottle of Plastic Magic (liquid) which you apply to the joint at one end using a brush. it runs by capillary along the joint or press the joint together for those less accurate. I have not yet found a plastic it won't join. Be very very sparing using on any of the foams as it eats some of them. Test on scrap first. On E Bay/Amazon you can find Por type glues unbranded much cheaper but equally effective. Search for Depron glues. Happy sticking👍👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Smoke generator

I have made a smoke generator using a piezo transducer and a P68s variable speed brush less fan controller from electroncs. The transducers tend to be 24v dc and are relatively cheap (£2-£3 each). I am using S3 lipos so I only have 11.4 available but a very cheap variable output unit gives me 24v. The fan is connected in-between the receiver channel for the throttle and the speed controller. The fan speed increases with the throttle and follows the throttle speed regardless of direction. The net effect is quite pleasing for diesel exhaust simulation, with a steady stream when the stick is centralised and the fan just idling. On fwd/rev throttle movement you get an increasing amount of exhaust dependent on speed. I have this installed in my Forceful paddler with twin funnels. The effect is quite realistic but can be difficult to see. I am looking for a another transducer that will produce more vapour. in its present configuration it will run for around 3 hours before topping up is required.

5 years ago by marlina2

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2

nice to see on board

5 years ago by jacko

Response

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-lengths-between-ESC-motor-ESC-battery may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. it's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Sounds good to me Selwyn 👍 That board is a sensible (essential) idea in that setup. Stops a stronger battery trying to charge the weaker one.👍 I have several Electronics modules as well (duplicated some 😁) They're good, well made stuff. Anyway, your brushless ESCs will 'see' 12V so setting them up as running on NiMh should do the trick. if you set them up as 'LiPo' they might think it is a 3S 11.1V battery and try to let the volts go down to 9V before cutting off!! Not good for the SLAs 😡 IF they assume it is a 4S 14.8V Lipo they will cut off at 4x3.0 i.e. 12V which will drastically shorten your run time; you'd have to keep the SLAs near fully charged (13.6V) all the time. Bon chance mon ami, let us know how it goes. All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Doug I’m using 2 x12v SLA wired through an electronics parallel board to give 12v. I hope to feed the power through the existing electronics fused power distribution board which will feed the two esc and all my on board lighting, radar scanner etc. Cheers Selwyn

6 years ago by rapidair65

Forum

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....

I think Hydrogen Peroxide is the active ingredient in Vanish and the like. it is regarded as "The Safe Bleach" in the cleaning products industry. it remains active on cleaned surfaces for up to 72 hrs.Hypochlorite types only for as long as you can smell them. it is safe to use on just about any surface or fabric and mixed with a small amount of say washing up liquid it will clean body fats from baths and showers and other fats from cookers and work surfaces. Also removes mould etc. it produces no toxic fumes and is safe on the skin. I worked for a company called Environmental Chemicals who were devoted to safer cleansing alternatives. You would be amazed at it's effect on a previously washed bread board. I won't list all they made but the one with the HP in it was very popular with industry and the public. I could identify most of their chemicals used by smell and Hydrogen Peroxide was one. Well not so much a smell but it's on my nasal passages. Likewise with gas fire and boiler fumes. A very handy thing to have when I was plumbing/gas fitting. Anyway back to the point. You can bleach your sails safely with it as often as you like to make them as white (or_ grey) as you like. it also shifts grime from painted/varnished wood and metals. A mention was made by someone (Westie ?)of metal masts etc on a star Yacht. I thought all Star yachts had all wooden masts and spars. I knew the Denyes.Jean-Jacques in particular and was allowed into the hallowed halls once or twice but didn't see everything. I was told that after the war wood was in short supply and old mangle rollers that were made with apple wood were sought and used . I am waiting to get back on my feet to restore the two yachts I was given for my two boys at that time.Around '67/68. Only the smaller unnamed ones. I don't know what no they are. I've already made a mast for one but all metal fittings will need cutting out afresh and new suits of sails acquired. Regarding sails. Handkerchiefs are too fine a material to allow recovery in a blow down. They don't allow the water out so keep the yacht flat. Anyone know of an alternative solution? Sorry to go on but I hope this diatribe has been helpful to someone.👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Response

USCG POINT GLAS

Superb work, as ever from you Zdenek👍👍👍 Look forward to seeing her in ! Wondered what you'd been up to lately. Like how you've boxed in the ballast. Good idea which I'll copy in my Plastic Magic conversions. Alles gute, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay

when I built mine my outer prop shaft where just a bit longer to get pass the centre motor, I then used 385 motors and found that it runs great, used speed controls and mixers

6 years ago by captaindoug1

Forum

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''

Hi Jon. I wouldn't be surprised if it would make £300. I have looked around for about six years and never seen such an origional and unmade FPB kit. I have put a sound system in mine supplied by electronics. The sound is of a turbo cat diesel and is very effective. Regards Kevin

6 years ago by kevinsharpe

Forum

Mixer

Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Styrene Allergy?

I started building a dutch coaster recently from a kit which is all plastic and styrene. I have no experience of using these materials. Progressing reasonably well but am finding that my fingers are becoming very sore, splitting and losing top layer of skin. Lips are swelling too. I can only guess this is a re to the styrene and would like to know if anybody else has this problem and how they get round it apart from stopping the build. Any help will be gratefully received. Regards, Nerys

6 years ago by Nerys

Forum

Styrene Allergy?

I started this post hoping to get advice on allergic re to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys

6 years ago by Nerys

Forum

Paints

Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints. Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard ) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the results👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints. BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's comments👍

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Where's our mate?...

Agreed John👍 especially in the Pacific colours faded rapidly. Depends if you want 'as built' / 'freshly painted' or 'in '. "Not many people would spot or even know the difference anyway." Trouble is 'We do!' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW the mix proportions, of those colours not yard premixed, are given in one of the links I gave. For scale models it seems to be generally accepted to lighten the basic colours a little, have seen 10 to 20% white depending on darkness of the base colour, to give more impression of distance and hence more realism on the wet stuff.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

S 100 Schnellboot RC build

I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisf as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the members help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good

6 years ago by teejay

Forum

sound generators

If you want a selection of various engine sounds, plus extra sounds i.e. klaxon,seagulls,winch sounds etc, the best one for the money is by electronics👍, part of Component shop. http://www.-electronics.co.uk/engines.html Peter😉

6 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

Hi folks, I've been filling in spaces in the Vincent epic with making deck fittings for the Chris Craft Special Runabout. I can't find or, probably, afford to get them nickel plated, so I will give the brass fittings to a chum who does casting of white metal, then I can a) get more than one of some and b) burnish them to look like chrome and then lacquer them. I'm assuming there might be a measure of interest in how these are done. I'm afraid I can't tell you how to do these without a lathe, because I've always had or had the use of, a lathe. They can be bought for a fr of the price of a kit, off ebay. My No 1 son bought a lathe exactly like mine (a Peatol, which is same as the Taig), only on a huge base with a nice big motor, a tool rack to hold every supplied, additional tool they make for it and even the book on how to use it and make even more tools for it, virtually unused, for £200. Similar small lathes can be had for even less. It's the brass that costs these days! Anyway, the trick is to break down the shape to that which can be cut, turned or bent. You can do all those things, so all you need to be able to do is silver solder and soft solder. If you can't yet, learn, sharpish. Silver soldering has enabled to earn a living till I retired. It helped me bring up a family of 5, so it's clearly very useful. I won't describe it in boring detail as these days there's a Youtube for every damned thing if you can tolerate that ghastly delivery that so many of them have. I can't, so I'm happy to answer questions if anyone wants to be told straight what to do. Golden rules....make it totally clean with a Swiss file, have sufficient heat, use the right flux. In silver soldering, just sprinkle the powdered flux on, don't bother making a paste, it'll just fizz and shift your little parts. For this part, one of the various patterns of deck lights/flag pole holders that Chris Craft used, I started by turning the main shape of the bulbous bit to be rather like a thimble. I then cut gaps out of it in the vice with a junior hacksaw, so that it had three legs, oversized for now. Then make a teardrop shape out of 1/16th" sheet and cut a hole in it to match. Why the hole? Well, if this is to cast successfully, I don't need any undercuts or "hooks " in the mould so it has to be hollow. Also, I need to put the light lenses in after it's all finished as these units had riding or nav. lights in them. They also had a small jack staff in the top with a burgee or even a national ensign attached. To make the rather art nouveau-ish back end I made a cardboard pattern of what had to be cut from 1mm brass sheet to be folded, hammered a bit and rolled a bit to fit onto the back of the thimble section. I silver soldered the thimble on first, to make it easy to fit the back rolled and folded bit, which was itself then silver soldered on. After that, it's all down to filing to shape, then as you can see from the pencil lines, cut out the teardrop shaped holes in the back which leave a central spine shape. I would first drill a 3mm hole and then, with the piece in a vice use a dental burr in a minidrill and hand mill it out, but PLEASE make sure it can't slip or you could be the owner of a grooved thumb or worse. Finish with files and papers of various grades. More anon when I do the next bits, although you're already further on than I am! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Radio Control Rowboat

Hi Sidley, Try investigating some of these - https://www.google.com/search?q=Radio+controlled+rowboat&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b For example- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajEP7hI30w0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FSCxGoyIY4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Olt3Uewa2I Have fun, can't wait to see it in 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Rebuild starts

Mornin Peter, That's probably your best bet👍 I find it convenient to use my cheaper single airbrush with a 0.8 nozzle / needle setup for larger stuff like hulls, and keep the more sophisticated dual set with a 0.5 (very occasionally 0.3) for detail work or the smaller 1/350 ships. For the latter rattle cans are of course totally useless, but the scale is just to big for decent brush painting (for me anyway😲) Saves having to fiddle about changing the setup so often😉 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Tony O

No Martin, I don't think so. Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it. If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the re was 'don't call us - we'll call you'. Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. it is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off. I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience. Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS. Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed. Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' ! Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked. And no, the kids can't normally get around it. if they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions! Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. if that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships? "I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff" No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance. OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...? (Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?) After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth? Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. in this the crémé de la crémé of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the international Model Show here. It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and aircraft of of all types including turbine jets. Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model. The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership. So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents? BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of aircraft and ships in as well. Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels. BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself. Have fun with the Taycols. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

54'' long Cervia tug.

Novagsi0 what a great harbour and the tr engine proves your engineering ability. However one question, where do you 48 hours in a day mine only have 24!!!

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

54'' long Cervia tug.

Cheers thankyou very much, you should see some of the other things I've made. I spent 10 years on a steam tr engine link below. https://meredithstephen1.wixsite.com/minnie-tr

6 years ago by Novagsi0

Response

Still Stripping......With Care!

Oh thank you kind Sir, I am really over come............. A lot of information in that Post. Will be really helpful. I concur, really bought a 'pig in a poke', 'donkey in a sack' or whatever. I will look later today, but doubt access being available to the bow from inside. Starting Monday, I am out of for almost two weeks so will try and crack on now. Dropping my 'Jazzed up' ideas means a rethink on the electrics. Will look there for light relief whilst rubbing away! All the best my friend. NPJ

6 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Schnnelleboot Battery

Thank you kipper just wasn't sure , I have not been able to progress the boat for the last 9 or ten weeks due to being out of with my spine, I hope to get on now after the op last week but I don't think it will see the water till next year. So I intend to get the RC stuff sorted out over the winter

6 years ago by teejay

Response

Range Safety Launch?

Hi Neville, I recognise the 'I want it all and I want it now syndrome' cropping up again😉 Wev'e been down this road before haven't we!? You don't have any "structural' problems. The original builder simply cheated and covered over the 'back bay' instead of fitting it out. And - Why do you want to mess with the cabin tops? To get the boat going for some fun just leave the superstructure like that for now and think about it and fiddle with it in the winter. The deck looks fine from the photos. Just flat off with some 1000/1500 grit wet & dry and give it a spray of medium sea grey and finish with satin or matt varnish. After you've fixed and repainted the hull. If you do all we've said to fix the hull, and apply the fix up to the joint of hull and deck there will be as good as no chance that the deck will leak. When all is said and done YOU saw the boat before you bought it and YOU had a specific purpose in mind apparently. Namely; some quick fun. Soooo - fix the hull, have some fun learning to drive it, and leave the fiddly bits and embellishments until the 'closed season'. Then you can deliberate and decide if you want to restore it as an RSL or convert it into something more exotic. Looking forward to your cogitations on the electrical layout😉 What bits are you thinking of using? BTW: if you had a fire at all with the heat gun either you have it too hot, turn it down to about 300 -350°C, or you're hanging about too long in one place. The gun should only be just hot enough to start the paint surface bubbling up. ATB Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Bluebird K7

Hi Chaps, Sorry I’ve not been on for a while, I’ve been busy learning how to 3D print things properly & playing with RC tanks & trucks. Anyway, I’ve been into Bluebird K7 since I was a kid, the Bluebird Project who have been rebuilding her have been running her up & down Loch Fad on the Isle of Bute for a couple of weeks, it would have been rude of me not to take the 4 hour drive! Here’s a video of her in (not mine) on her 157mph run, the Loch is only just over a mile long so the ending is quite dramatic, I had a 5p 50p moment anyway. Enjoy👍 https://youtu.be/mog89EDYFd0 Who said she had poor steering lol Cheers Wayne

6 years ago by Midlife306

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

Hi Will, Sounds good to me👍 I like the Electroncs stuff as well, have their dual ESC with rudder mixer which I want to try in my long thin destroyer to reduce the turning radius. Was misled about the SLA by a previous post🤔 Makes sense re the BEC which I believe is 5V 1.2A. I prefer a separate RX batt anyway😉 BUT: if you run a 6V NiMh down to 5.6V you are close to the Deep Discharge zone which will seriously damage the battery and drastically shorten it's life 😲 Threshold voltage is 1.0V per cell, so take erratic control as a warning that the battery is flat and come home soon! Look forward to your Sea Trials report. Cheers, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will

6 years ago by Will-I-Am

Response

SA Valour Class Frigate

Sad to say, I'm not actually a member of the Centurion Model Boat Club, despite having lived here for a number of years. But I'm sure the guys at the club would love having your model sailing there. Perhaps one day I'll have the time to venture to Emmarentia Dam to see the Spioenkop and all the other boats of the GMBC in . Best regards, Glyn

6 years ago by Glyn

Forum

Park lakes

That was Peasholm Park and I remember them too. According to Google the naval battles still continue. Must be one of the longest s in history!

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Leaking Boat!

Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! if the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. if it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Range Safety Launch?

Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

6 years ago by NPJ