Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) 👍I was never 100% happy with this. it didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. 👍 the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/ http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

Hi Colin, Try this version, P94 for brushed motors, from at Component Shop. Only throttle and rudder inputs with automatic mixing. I have one of these I intend to use for my long thin destroyer, or maybe the Graf Spee. Or the P40 for Brushless, same operating principle. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html. I may get one of these for my PT109. heers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Sounds good to me Selwyn 👍 That board is a sensible (essential) idea in that setup. Stops a stronger battery trying to charge the weaker one.👍 I have several modules as well (duplicated some 😁) They're good, well made stuff. Anyway, your brushless ESCs will 'see' 12V so setting them up as running on NiMh should do the trick. if you set them up as 'LiPo' they might think it is a 3S 11.1V battery and try to let the volts go down to 9V before cutting off!! Not good for the SLAs 😡 IF they assume it is a 4S 14.8V Lipo they will cut off at 4x3.0 i.e. 12V which will drastically shorten your run time; you'd have to keep the SLAs near fully charged (13.6V) all the time. Bon chance mon ami, let us know how it goes. All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Doug I’m using 2 x12v SLA wired through an parallel board to give 12v. I hope to feed the power through the existing fused power distribution board which will feed the two esc and all my on board lighting, radar scanner etc. Cheers Selwyn

6 years ago by rapidair65

Forum

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''

Hi Jon. I wouldn't be surprised if it would make £300. I have looked around for about six years and never seen such an origional and unmade FPB kit. I have put a sound system in mine supplied by . The sound is of a turbo cat diesel and is very effective. Regards Kevin

6 years ago by kevinsharpe

Forum

Mixer

Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

sound generators

If you want a selection of various engine sounds, plus extra sounds i.e. klaxon,seagulls,winch sounds etc, the best one for the money is by 👍, part of Component shop. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/engines.html Peter😉

6 years ago by Rookysailor

Response

Range Safety Launch?

Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

6 years ago by NPJ

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi, Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in. Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else. Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from , sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁 You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p94l-dual-esc-and-mixer-2-x-10-amp.html Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Twin screw

Thanks Doug for your response I will try everything you mentioned I have decaperm motors and dual esc from . Cheers George

6 years ago by georgeo5664

Forum

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat

Your answer even quicker 😲 OK, if you don't want to practice twin motor control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion🤔). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Hi John, Yep, I know Component Shop, and the modules inside out👍 Have bought ESC mixers and Asdic pingers from them. Good stuff, and some of it dead easy to duplicate! 😲😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Bon chance mon ami👍 Don't know what TX you have but you may be able to do the mixing there. If not there are several separate mixer boards on the market. This one for instance; P40D from Component Shop. It's good for both brushed and brushless motors😊 See pdf data sheet. Mode 1 might be good for Brave Borderer!? http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/Mixers.html https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p40e-marine-motor-mixer.html Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

David Metcalfs Waveney - ''The Scout''

For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an P73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno

6 years ago by Flack

Forum

Warped wood

Hiya Doug Yep but I prefer something I can Hold in my hand to read . No booting up time req,😁Have you heard of Action R/C Electronics it's an arm of Comp Shop. Same addy . Great units ready built : or kits for many of them. Download the catalogue from Comp Shop site. I find Kyje very helpful when I have a query,but they are all good. Steve Webb /Servo Shop also handy too. Cheers Doug👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Warped wood

Evenin' John, Yep, they're good👍 They also now market the range of very useful electronic modules. Also very good quick service to Munich 👍😊 Catalogue you can download anyway 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. /Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

46''Vosper Crash Tender Lesro

Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks

6 years ago by Ianh

Forum

It's a sad day!.

I can well imagine how you feel about your i.c. models. My recent renovation/recommissioning of my late father's Vosper MTB is kind of ironic in that it last ran in 1962 when noise suddenly became an issue. Mind you, it was VERY loud. My rebuild, needless to say, was centred around brushless motors and lipo's. But I also put an excellent sound system into it as it was so quiet. The system, by and is nice and loud as per the full-size but it does seem ironic that I felt the need to put sound(noise) back in! I use lots of small diesels in free-flight model aircraft and still hugely enjoy getting them 'singing' and savouring the wonderful smell in the car going home afterwards!

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Forum

Calling Devon boaters. Help!

Hi Keystone, We will be visiting the lake in the morning on Saturday, 28th April.Will there be pedalo problems at that time? The MTB has now passed her trials with flying colours - see photos. Sound system by is great! Charlie😆

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MB, don't recommend you use ANY kind of batteries in parallel, esp. LiPos, unless you have a connection / distribution board in between that will stop one battery trying to charge the other. This will happen if the two batteries do not have identical charge levels! Component shop have such a board (from ) to do this. Also, you will probably find that, for example, 2 x 2500mAH batts will weigh more than one 5000mAH batt🤔 and be more expensive. Only advantage I can see in using two instead of one is that you can put them either side of the keel to help reduce any rolling tendency. Effect is minimal I think though. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: One per ESC and Motor as Jarvo is doing - Fine. Two in parallel feeding one ESC - not so fine! 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Steam sound unit (variable speed)

What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch module to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate modules to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound modules I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a module from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner module is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Props

Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Twin Esc/Mixer

I have an Esc/Mixer from . A P94 which I am thinking of using to control the twin motors on a Richardson Tug. Now I am very new to this sort of thing and when I unpacked it I found it has two plastic panels attached to the circuit board at right angles and measuring 50mm or 2” up into the air. I cannot find any reference to these in the paper work. Are they just to attach the board to something or of greater significance? Also when connecting up the unit to the motors, are there any ‘special issues’ I need to be aware of? Help needed please. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Blog

Electronics Down Below (5)

This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Response

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade

Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.html I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Twin motor control problem

Good luck John 👍 The 'hurricane' brought us a superb indian Summer here in south Germany, blue skies and 25°C in Munich. 😊 Should last until Saturday, then the rain is back 🤔 it really is an ill wind that blows nobody any good! To avoid the binding timing problem Dave describes above use a separate RX batt and disconnect BOTH BECs!! Then only switch on the ESCs after the TX is bound with the RX. Several RC module manufacturers warn against BECs, e.g. ! Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

3 x Brushless Motor control?

Hi, as I wrote,I have no experience with products. Regarding the use of internal mixers in HKT6A , these did not suit for this case,neither Turnigy TGY9X.There is always one main signal as control and the other one(or more) as a signal dependent. I needed to mix two independent signals and that is why I chose an external simple mixer! To Dave M .. excuse me -I have no experience with brushless motors but in this case I do not know why it could not work. it is a mix of two control signals only ...What's the problem with that, if I use brushless motors?

7 years ago by tomarack

Forum

3 x Brushless Motor control?

I agree Tom, 👍 Much easier. That's the principle I will be using on my destroyer refit. I have a combined twin-ESC and mixer module from and will have speed and steering both on the right stick. Greetings Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

PS Dave, Natch, small signal mixing is always better. A few 10 - 47K resistors and away you go! 😊 Amps such as the already have this network included. There are countless other similar 'ready made' solutions on the market for those who don't want to mess about with soldering irons like we do. Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Have been considering this for my Southampton. Don't want tank steering though, since I sail in a Biergarten I need to keep one hand free for the Bierkrug!😉 So I decided to try the P94 dual ESC and rudder mixer all in one module! From Component Shop these days. Can be easily set in one of 4 modes. See pic. NOTE: Brushed motors ONLY!! Not fitted yet, still busy with Sea Scout and PT Boat. The module may yet end up in my Destroyer! Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Working radar

Doug: Yes, I was contemplating the idea of running the radar via small dc with a separate switch, that way I wouldn’t need to use a channel. I have been inspecting lots of different wiring diagrams to set up my electronics from . Looking at them I’m beginning to understand how to embrace the project and of course, you guys will give me the last word. By the way, I love your models, they look impeccable inside and out. Julian😎

7 years ago by chugalone100

Forum

Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper 1:48 scale by Caldercraft

Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!

7 years ago by saltysnogbad

Forum

12 volt motors to esc,s

The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..

7 years ago by none

Forum

And now it is ESC time

Hi These are the motors. Not much info on them. But they are large and I can also replace the brushes when required. http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_187&products_id=741 Big motors and they work very well in big models I had the Action stuff dual ESC and melted the p94 still awaiting a return email response from them three days ago. In the meanwhile as you say two esc's are more than likely better. Two from Here http://electronize.net/model_electronics_frames.htm They seem to have the stuff that I have reliably been informed will do the job. So a few weeks time And I will be able to see how they go..

7 years ago by none

Directory

(Naval Ship) MTB743

This is a Failmile 'D' MTB. This version and number were operated by the 65th Canadian MTB flotilla in the English Channel. I made the model as this version as my Uncle was one of the crew. This model hull is built from scratch in the in the same was the real boats were using double diagonal planking. The propulsion is with 4 props paired using a dual ESC by and 2 11.1v LIPO batteries. These MTB were powered with 4 Packard 4M-2500 Engines with a hull speed of 34.5kts. Armament:- 4 x 18" torpedo's, 2 x 6pdr Mkv11 guns, Twin 20mm Oerlikon gun, 2 x twin Vickers Machine guns on powered mounts, as well as other smaller machine guns on the bridge. For more info goto the Manitoba Maritime Museum (Motor: COMBO 380) (ESC: ) (8/10)

7 years ago by solo1274

Blog

San Pedro Pus Boat - Engine Room Fittings

I tried different Mixers unfortunately they were the wrong kind of mixers, after doing some research I now know I need an Mixer! it's a costly component I must say, I guess I'll be getting it by next spring just in time to do a Maiden Voyage.

8 years ago by figtree7nts

Media

San Pedro

The San Pedro is a North American Push Boat. She weighs in at 21 lbs L.O.A. is 30" Beam is 12" Draft is 3" 5/8" Her Engine Room Consist of: Two MFA 919D 540 Type Motors with Single Ratio Metal Gearbox 2.5:1 Reduction Two Mtroniks Viper Marine PNP 15 One Throttle & Rudder Mixer Two 6 Volt SLA Batteries in series Running time is estimated at 2 hrs

8 years ago by figtree7nts

Directory

(Tug Boat) Shell Pioneer

This is my first working RC build but here goes. A bit vauqe about the fiqures because we are still on the slipway. it is scratch built from the Phil Thomas drawing "Shell Pioneer" Twin prop with Kort nozzle steering, bow thruster, working fire monitors and lights. Throtle & steering control via P40E mixer. 2x 2S25C4000mA lipoly's. 6 Ch radio (4 used). draws around 4.5A hope to get 30min run time minimum. Third ESC for bow thruster. (Motor: 2x MFA940051LN) (ESC: 3xViper 15A) (5/10)

8 years ago by marlina2

Forum

receiver voltage output

I have two ESC's (mtronics Viper Marine 15)and a P40 mixer from . Because of this the motors have their own batteries, 7.2volts, and the receiver has it's own 6volt supply. Neither of the ESCs provides power to the receiver, although they are obviously connected to it, the central wire is removed from the connector and taped back, out of the way, so could I use one to supply the power for the sound unit? The mtronics spec for this BEC unit is 1.2A but the voltage is not mentioned. Chris

8 years ago by octman

Forum

fitting sound module to a tug that has 2 motors and a mixer

My tug has 2 motors and an P40 mixer. I have been looking at the Technobots Combo Engine Sound module but was wondering if this would cause any problems as I assume from the Technobots site that the module would normally have to fit between receiver and the ESC, but with the P40 mixer in situ would I have to connect from the mixer to the ECS instead,or from the receiver to the mixer? I was going to ask on the Technobots forum but after registering I was unable to find a way of posting a message. Probably a bit too dim for them ! The way I see it, one of 2 things will happen, if connected between receiver and mixer the sound module will behave as though there was only one motor, whereas connecting between the mixer and one of the ESCs the sound will only reflect what is happening to that particular motor. I have no problems with either of these situations, although I think option 1 is better, but what I am concerned about is that one of the options may be so wrong something fails, and all I have ended up with is a smoke generator! Chris

8 years ago by octman

Blog

Push-tug San Pedro

The San Pedro is a North American style push tug model. she is 30" X 12" twin screw draft 3"5/8", weight is estimated at 21lbs. I plan on powering her with, Two MFA 919D Series - 2.5:1 Gearbox - 3000 rpm @ 6 volts, 6300 rpm @ 12 volts Two Viper Marine 15's PNP Two SLA Batteries @ 6V, 2.5 Amps One Throttle & Rudder Mixer Did I forget anything?

8 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

2 x ESCs

also do a mixer that does this. My Southamton tug only had one ESC and the turning performance left a lot to be desired, but with 2 ESCs and the Action P40 mixer it will, literally, turn in its own length. Chris

8 years ago by octman

Forum

236674

In that case you can forget the diagram as its not appropriate for brushless motors. Your brushless motor will have three wires coming off it, The speed controller will have three wires coming off one side and two wires coming off the other side coloured red and black. The three wires will connect to the three wires on the motor, the colours of these wires are irrevelant and can be interchanged to change the direction of the motor as you wish and the two wires will connect to the battery - ensure the red goes to red and black goes to black. You may have to solder suitable connectors to the speed controller wires to make the appropriate connections. The speed controller will have a three wired connection called a BEC (battery elimination circuit) with a futaba type plug on it to connect to the receiver for the throttle channel. This saves having to use a separate battery for the receiver as power for it is supplied by the main power batteries. If you intend to use twin motors and speed controllers it is better to connect each motor and speed controller to its own battery. in this case you will have two connectors to connect to the receiver, you can purchase a "Y" lead to join the two wires into one. if you do this you should disconnect the red lead from one of the receiver wires to prevent damage to the receiver. You may if you wish disconnect both red wires from theses plugs and use a separate 4.8v/6v battery pack for the receiver, it is entirely a personal choice. Wiring of lights and other accessories is a separate issue. Shaun

8 years ago by Flack

Forum

236674

provide a wiring diagram for the Model Slipway "Tamar" which can be found with the link below: http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Model%20Slipway%20Tamar%2012v.pdf This is a comprehensive diagram showing the use of just about everything provide and is specifically aimed at using brushed motors, a lot of the stuff will be no use with brushless motors. Shaun

8 years ago by Flack

Response

Adding a search light to the new Crick krane for my tug

Depends on how you want it to operate - either using your radio or just by hand using a switch. Either way you will need to know the voltage it is designed to operate at as too high a voltage will blow the bulb and too low a voltage may cause the bulb not to light. Pretty sure the light illustrated operates at 3v. Using the radio can be achieved by connecting the light to a switching unit which can be purchased from which will come with full instructions on how to wire it. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P43.pdf The one shown in the link is for a single piece of equipment, others are available for two or up to 4 items. It can also be switched by radio using a micro switch operated by a servo but this can be a bit hit and miss. Switch by hand is achieved by inserting a switch ie micro toggle switch available from Maplins into the live wire from the battery. http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=toggle switch&x=0&y=0 Hope this helps. Shaun

8 years ago by Flack

Forum

BEC Circuits.

HI Dave, Done a lot of work on the electrics since the original post. The working radar is powered by the receiver using the transmitter to turn it on/off so an extension lead has resolved that issue. The internal, navigation, mast and searchlight are now powered by a single 11.1 volt LiPo through an quad switcher which again has a extension lead fitted so overall I have gone some way to resolving the issue. I would still like to be able to turn off the receiver power without removing the superstructure beacause as you will be aware it is a bit unwieldy, however haven't found a place I would be happy to mount a toggle switch that doesn't look out of place. Work in progress! I am amazed at the amount of help and advice there is from so many people on this forum and also the amount of interest the topic has generated - thanks to all who have offered their wisdom.

8 years ago by Flack

Forum

BEC Circuits.

HI Mark, Thanks for your reply. I really am a bit confused now, the speed controllers (brushed) have two wires to attach to the main power battery, two wires to the motor which connect through a twin P95 board, the receiver wires connected by means of a "y" lead, and two further wires with a small on/off switch on them, these are both black wires. I have been using the boat without any problem but would like to make the two small switches accessible without having to remove the superstructure. I would prefer to be able to do this using one switch only and wonder if I can dispense with one switch altogether or alternatively make one switch out of the two by splicing the wires together and connecting one switch. Shaun

8 years ago by Flack

Forum

Four Motors Wiring Advice

Just completing the build of HMS Blake 1/96 scale. Need some advice on wiring the four into the system. My set up is four MFA360 motors, one P102 , 2 x 20amp speed controllers, P103 parrell board for two batteries and two 12v 3700May MiNH Batteries. I have wired my type 23 for two motors,however I am struggling with four.

9 years ago by martinsperring070558