Forum
For my next project I am looking at the Pilot Boat by
aeronaut
.
www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/.../
aeronaut
-Pilot-Boat-3046-00.htm
I am unable to find any reviews or information, apart from the somewhat limited information on the web.
I am not new to model boats but I am new to electric power. It is suggested that two motors are used (not supplied).
The kit seems to be very detailed with scope to add.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Steve
8 years ago by cormorant
Forum
Torben Tug boat
I haven't built this boat/tug. But I am half way through building an
aeronaut
Classic Sports Boat. I'm far from happy with the build of it. Bottom skins are just over an eighth of an inch too short and the side rails to fit the skins to are of one sixteenth thick, these are too thin in my thoughts. I would certainly never buy another
aeronaut
model to build. it was a waste of ยฃ80. I have seen a build of the same model from about 4 years ago and since then they have skimped on wood for the build. Cheap wood to get a larger profit on the model. Steer clear of them in my mind.
5 years ago by BOATSHED
Forum
Torben Tug boat
Hello, has any one built the
aeronaut
Hamburg Harbour tug boat "Torben"? And if so any tips please. Regards
5 years ago by SpiderBruce
Forum
Thanks for the credit Peter ๐
Saw your mail, answer soon, been having PC problems.๐ค
Just about got 'em ironed out now ๐
Cheers, Doug ๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Hi Ron.
I have a reasonable knowledge of electronics and wiring but my difficulty lies in the circuit board designs, especially when IC`s are involved. Fortunately this site has some very good people willing to help. I have been helped a lot by Doug, (RNinMunich) who is always happy to advise.
Due to only requiring a small quantity of electronic items such as LED`s at a time, I buy most of them through ebay. I would recommend bright_components for LEDs and resistors. They sell most things needed for the boat builder where electronics are concerned. ๐
5 years ago by MouldBuilder
Forum
Hi Peter,
Thanks for idea for making easier access to Rudder Connections. I have modified mine to similar to yours and all seems well so far. I have not continued with "above" Deck Building but that will be next on the plan. How "Electrical Minded" are you regarding LED wiring etc.? I am looking for a good Website, both for getting advice on Wiring along with suitable supplies for UK source. Any ideas? Thanks again. Ron
5 years ago by RonW
Forum
Hi Ron.
I have just fitted the rudders and controls last weekend. I have built almost the complete model but held off from fitting the deck until I had time to consider this problem. The best I could come up with was to reverse the control arms so that their screws fixing them to the rudders were accessible from the front after the deck had been fitted. Doing the linkages this way means that you have to bend the control arms to miss the strength rib in front of the rear skin and also you might have to reverse the servo travel direction on the Tx. I had to do this.๐
I have included a picture to show what I have done. it does not solve all of the problems but makes adjustment possible.
I have also included a picture of the dual speed controller. I know you have solved this problem but I have tested this unit and it works very well. I hope this helps in some way.
Peter.๐
5 years ago by MouldBuilder
Forum
Hi Peter. I have competed the hull and tested motors which are running OK. Whilst setting up the Servo etc for the Rudder Control, I found the fittings very fiddly to connect (and that is without the Deck fitted). Moving on, I am considering what can/should be done to enable slight adjustments to the Rudders etc. when the Deck is fixed. All very tight to get into that area. Has anyone had this problem and found an answer? Thanks. Ron
5 years ago by RonW
Forum
hi can anyone help me out there i am building johnny tug boat, the instruction that came with it was in german, i managed to d/load english version, ony problem is the instructions are shocking there is no measurments or dimensions, i have parts i dont know where they go, if anyone can help me id appreciate it, ive even tried to contact
aeronaut
to no avail, cheers colin๐
5 years ago by jaffy012
Forum
Hi Peter. I have spoken to Cornwall Model Boats and they advised me that to run 2 engines from one ESC, you should set up and get one engine running, then separately the second one and then join them together by means of a Y Connector. I have done this and now have both engines running together. I don't need them to run individually. Steering will be done by Rudders. Best Wishes. Ron๐๐
5 years ago by RonW
Forum
Hi Ron.
I am currently building the
aeronaut
s Pilot Boat Kit. it is reasonably well advanced now but I still have to fit the electronics.
I bought two 400 sport brushed motors and was advised at a very early stage that two speed controllers were necessary. I looked into various solutions and found that Hobbyking sell a dual speed controller especially for two motors. it is a Hobbywing Quicrun 860. I hope this helps.๐
Peter.
5 years ago by MouldBuilder
Forum
Steve. Since my last message, I have made progress, purchased a kit from Cornwall Models. Started building hull just before Xmas and as you mentioned, you need to have patience to get it right. Before going to far, I am planning how to set up the Motors and the Speed controller. I have got a Viper Marine 25 ESC and 2 Motors (380's). Looking back at some photos of yours, it looks as you have 2 Speed Controllers. I am having problems in getting the ESC to talk to the 2 Motors. Do I need to have a second ESC to operate the 2 Motors? How would this be set up through my Hobbyking Controller? Would appreciate some clarity of my thinking. Best Wishes. Ron๐๐
5 years ago by RonW
Response
Classic sports boat
It looks like an
aeronaut
Classic, I am half way through building one and am not happy with it as I have built it as per instructions and the bottom skins are a good eight of an in too short. it seems tome that a lot of the parts like the side stringers are way too thin. I saw a picture of one that was being built that some one was doing a couple of years back and now the parts have been dramatically skimped now. I am very dissapointed with the model generally.
5 years ago by BOATSHED
Response
just as a matter interest how much weight were you thinking , i know it is light and may be quick with the brushless motor
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Lovely Job, well done, these are excellent little boats. I fancy building the bigger one now in the
aeronaut
range. Make sure you get some weight in her though. Mine flew across the pond the other day and turned over. (No damage, just my pride) itโs way to fast. Good luck with your Maiden ๐
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
Thanks SG ๐
Was afraid of that with the bench.
Guess I'll have to rummage in the odds n ends box
Cheers, Doug ๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
the varnish is a type i bought from the web
but the seat is the kit version just wood frame with some foam and a pliable vinyl cover glued in place ,, the white bead is , nylon cord
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Nice 'shiny' build SG ๐
Love the woodwork ๐๐
What varnish did you use ?
Did you buy or build the seats? if build - How???
Been pondering how to do that for my Sea Scout๐ค
Happy 'Wetting' in 2019, cheers, Doug๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
well its built , a pleasant build , now to get it wet
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
I am also upgrading the prop shaft, I have purchased a 4mm shaft to use that has a decent outer casing. All other boats I have built the side chine rails have all bee 1/4 x1/4 inch rails. I am just so disappointed with some of the substandard use of certain parts. I just feel for the price they are cutting costs to up their profits on the boat. I have built a few of the older AeroKits like the RAF crash tender, Sea commander, Sea Queen and Sea Hornet as well as the Precedent Fairey Huntsman, and these all have a substantial set of side rail to fit and even the bulk head pieces are a much better thickness of ply. I would just not recommend the Aeronuat kits to anyone myself now. I was just going to fit a standard Gruapner speed 400 motor in but still unsure. I was thinking maybe a brushless may just be a bit overpowering her. but as I say still unsure, I may put in a brushless yet who knows. Keep us informed on here as to you progress I am keen to see your finished model. I suspect yours will be finished well before mine as I have shelved the build for now. Happy modelling.
5 years ago by BOATSHED
Response
as i have said it is my first boat kit build and i have had no problems with anything , all parts fit wonderfully ok i have upgraded the prop shaft but nothing has been wrong , i just followed the instructions ,
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
have you got ant pictures of the build of her or a picture of her finished> I bought one of these back in September from Hobbies in Raveningham. I have got 3/4's of the way through the build. I am very disappointed with the model. The side stringers are 1/16th thick and the bottom skin doesn't fit. That is 1/8th of an inch too short. I have had to buy more ply to make a new pair of bottom skins. I have decided to leave the finishing of the model now until after Christmas. I think it's a poorly made model, they cut corners on the thin wood they have supplied to build it with. I saw a picture of one that was built a few years back and the construction was far better. I feel it was a waste of money, I would have been better buying the Sea Hornet from the vintage model works for an extra ยฃ18. I personally wouldn't recommend the
aeronaut
Classic to anyone to buy.
5 years ago by BOATSHED
Forum
Scratch built yacht.
Hello Joe
Many thanks for the reply and the offer of help. I have built several model boats of different styles and also a 'Bella' yacht kit from
aeronaut
. I prefer building plank on frame and find it quite therapeutic especially as I love wood. My next step is to build a beautiful sailing boat hull and the 1mtr style would suit I think. I am not planning to race the boat and might even not rig it but just have the pleasure of the build.
If you can help I would be obliged best regards Chris G
5 years ago by ChrisG
Response
Hi Doug, sorry for delay in replying. Iโve been trying to upload some video but it doesnโt seem to run so Iโm stuck to show everyone how she runs on the local Pond. it was a lovely day thanks and she ran ok but I think she needs a bit of extra weight in the rear.Iโll keep trying or I may need to record at a lower quality rate, maybe thatโs the problem.
Thatโs great that the sea scout was your Dads model, just shows you that if they are built well they will last forever. Just seen the Belfast on your home page, now that is a nice ship. Keep up the good work.
Simon ๐
5 years ago by Sifi70
Blog
Painting
Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip.
I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together.
It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.๐ค
I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well.
I think that these models by
aeronaut
are really well designed. it still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.๐
I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures.
Happy Christmas to all.
5 years ago by MouldBuilder
Response
Hi
A 28mm brushless between 1000 and 2000kv is OK for this size boat.
It depends on how fast you what to boat to go.
The area you have to run it in.
Canabus
5 years ago by canabus
Response
i did wonder about the shaft it is a little flimsy so thanks for confirming that and the prop, i a still pondering a motor as there seems so little room i looked at a out runner from a aircraft but maybe that would be too quick
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
I have the following setup in my Classic: Graupner BL Compact 260Z 1380KV with a Graupner ESC 18A FWD and REV. The shaft is replaced with a Robbe 4mm (no 1442) as the one provided is a flimsy part that will not withstand the motor set-up. Prop is a 33mm Graupner racing item. it is running on LiPo 2S but if one need a rocket it can run on 3S. Great fun to build and performs great on the water
5 years ago by Tica
Response
Hi Simon, Glad to help๐ I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' ๐
When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour๐).
My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply๐ฒ' restored it and upgraded it.
Attached pics show the Before and After ๐
The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor.
I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor.
The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration.
Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up.
Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it๐
As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' ๐
Cheers, Doug ๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
Hi Doug, Thanks for the links, just watch your YouTube clips and she runs lovely. Iโve seen that a lot of people have used those Turnigy motors so I might try one of them on my next build. Iโll read the blog over the next few days.
What did you think if the kit as a whole to build, only asking as me and my sister have just purchased the Fire Crash Tender for our Father for Chrimbo. Thanks for all your tips, itโs much appreciated. I might try and get some clips of the classic over Gorleston pond today if the weather permits lol. Cheers ๐
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
Hi Simon,
I used the lacquer on the blue and white as well. it 'flattened' the paint and made it real hard and smooth ๐
The whole time consuming but satisfying process is described in incredibly boring ๐ detail in my blog- 'Jessica - Sea Scout restoration' (or was it renovation ??๐ฒ Go easy with the lacquer on top of the varnish, not too heavy in one coat, or it may cause hairline surface cracks as it dries due to surface tension. ๐ก
Motor is a Propdrive 2832, 1000kV driving a 35mm 3 blade brass prop from Raboesch. Running on a 3S Lipo using a Quicrun 30A ESC and Turnigy iA6 RX. Pic attached of 'Engine Room'.
Link attached to videos of the sea trials in May this year, Ostpark Lake and Biergarten, Munich.
https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw
https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw
She's 24" LoA with an all up weight of about 1.5kg.
BTW: the lacquer is also supposed to be UV resistant! ๐
All the best, Doug ๐
PS Here the link to my Sea Scout Build Blog
https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Talking of glues for plastic I have a bottle of Plastic Magic (liquid) which you apply to the joint at one end using a brush. it runs by capillary action along the joint or press the joint together for those less accurate. I have not yet found a plastic it won't join. Be very very sparing using on any of the foams as it eats some of them. Test on scrap first. On E Bay/Amazon you can find Por type glues unbranded much cheaper but equally effective. Search for Depron glues. Happy sticking๐๐
5 years ago by onetenor
Forum
Hi Peter
It seems so long ago and I can't remember exactly how I did it.
However, I used canopy glue (which dries clear) to stick the glazing to the window opening as centrally as I could. Any gaps were successfully covered by the metal trim, which I fitted before the canopy glue dried so I could reposition the glazing if required.
Sorry I can't be any more specific but the end result was 'gapless'.
Steve
5 years ago by cormorant
Forum
Hi Steve.
In have been reading this thread with great interest as I am currently making this Pilot Boat kit. I am about 70% there but have hit a snag that I have no answer for and hoped you could help.
I am trying to fit the glazing but have found it to be fairly loose in the holes. Can you advise as to how you glued yours in place without sticking the protective tape in place and how it stays there due to the gaps around. When did you fit the metal trims.
Thanks.๐
Peter.
5 years ago by MouldBuilder
Response
the Riva is so iconic like a old Bentley racer , which i also saw there funnily enough
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Hi Doug, Thanks for you kind words itโs much appreciated. Ok I may try that then on the bigger version by
aeronaut
, the Princess I think itโs called. Iโm tempted to give that one a go. Your Sea Scout looks lovely. The finish really looks fab so Iโll be trying your tip. What motor are you running in your Scout. Cheers. Simon.
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
Well that is very strange as me and my wife went to Lake Garda on our Honeymoon and we went out on a Riva as well. This was back in 1998, we will always remember the italian captain saying to us โDo you like speedโ then opening up the throttles and off we went. Absolutely fabulous. So I can understand why you like these boats. itโs a small world lol ๐
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
Evening Sifi,
Nice job, lovely woodwork ๐
Tip / Suggestion; to give your decks that 'final touch' how about spraying with a clear lacquer? I use one from the auto branch, e.g. used with touch up spray cans (esp. metallics) to melt/blend in to the original finish.
Gives the varnish a finish like glass - sea attached pics of my Sea Scout.
Cheers, Doug ๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
my dream would be a model Riva , as i took my wife out on lake Garda in one on our 25th anniversary . a craft long admired but sadly the model is out of my range , so i thought i would try this , , but for me , a Riva would be a dream come true ,
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Thankyou, I varnished it seven times and flattened between coats. Iโm sure yours will come out fine, just take your time. My Dad has the Diva, he fitted a Brusless inrunner and that runs lovely. They are all great models in that range. Iโm going to build another, just canโt decide which one lol
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
I built the
aeronaut
Diva and even with a 350 size brushed motor the performance is brilliant. it gets up on the plane early on and hiesvlije stink.
5 years ago by Manofkent
Response
your classic looks superb i hope mine can be as good as that , though i have a little damage to the rear deck panels as it came that way , beautiful craft
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Right, I've attached a few photos of the classic which hopefully will help with your build. They are a very simple and enjoyable kit to build, I really enjoyed it. The motor is a Brushless inrunner 220w motor BM400 2100KV V3 Blue. I purchased it from Gliders and it cost ยฃ25 including postage. it's an excellent motor and it's very fast. Hope you enjoy building it and don't forget to upload some pics afterwards. Good Luck.
Simon๐
5 years ago by Sifi70
Response
that would be great , thanks simon
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
that is very interesting , and yes worth knowing indeed , thanks i am learning more all the time
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Response
Hi Sandgrounder,
Good stuff from Canabus BUT-
If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!!
The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power ๐ก
To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes.
If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself.
If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below
You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality๐)
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html
I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment ๐
Have fun, cheers, Doug ๐
5 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
many thanks ,Canabus i will look at those , i don't think battery space would be
issue ,
5 years ago by sandgrounder
Forum
Jotika Ltd are the main UK distributor for
aeronaut
. http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Distributors_Front.htm
I have just spoken to the MD, John and he can supply any parts you need.
His phone number is 01905 776073.
Hope this helps.
5 years ago by cormorant
Response
Hi Sandgrounder
There are a number of speed 400's with voltage range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts.
The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm.
So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm.
ESC 45Amp.
Prop 30-32mm 2 blade.
If it's tight of battery space Hobbyking have small ones you can parallel together like the Turnigy 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm).
Regards
Canabus
5 years ago by canabus
Blog
i have bought a
aeronaut
classic kit to build over the winter , i have had to suspend other models (tugs) due to fumes and winter ventilation .
it will be my first wood kit build ,
i would like to fit a brush-less motor in the Classic but do not know which motor i could use to replace a speed 400,
can anyone recommend a brush-less motor for the classic
5 years ago by sandgrounder