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    Forum
    Help and advice please
    I run sailboats all the time. For the battery pack you can use a 6v hump pack. Here is one with a
    charger
    . (you dont need the switch)( I'm in the US so I dont use the UK Ebay site much. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modelsport-UK-6v-Receiver-Battery-and-
    charger
    -Pack-Hump-Pack-MSRXNP/253828164657?hash=item3b19566c31:g:s88AAOSwAlJbfoYD For the transmitter, there are 2 ways to go. 1st is to use the existing older frequency receiver that you have and try to find a compatible transmitter, or just get a new transmitter and receiver combo.
    10 days ago by tgilchristjr
    Forum
    Help me please
    yes I have a
    charger
    the radio set is what I use for my nitro helicopter but thought I would have to go 2.4 ghz the motor is a Johnson 600 3v-12v DC Operating specifications: 4.8V - 1.4A - 9200 RPM 6V - 1.5A - 11,500 RPM 7.2V - 1.7A - 13,800 RPM 9V - 1.9A - 17250 RPM 12V - 2.3A - 23,000 RPM the motor is capable of high torque output but the current can easily exceed 40A-50A under load and could hit 80A if stalled at 12V.Ensure that stall situations are prevented by using either a fuse or current limiter in series with the motor. what would be good is what you need is this speed controller this for the leds ect but I will get there in the end PS THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME
    1 month ago by m02is500
    Forum
    Help me please
    So you already have an appropriate motor installed. All you then need is a radio (Tx and Rx), a servo, a speed controller and a radio-switch if you want to add switchable lights. Oh, and a battery. You will need a radio because 35mhz is an aircraft band. Boats can use 27mhz, 40mhz (both old technologies now) or 2.4ghz. I would strongly recommend 2.4ghz - it's cheap and has lots of advantages. You can get a set for less than Β£50 - I have seen them for less than Β£20! But get one with more than 2 channels if you want to do extra light switching. The hull is a displacement one - I suggest a standard 7.2v NiMh battery pack (though I don't know your motor voltage?). Do you have a
    charger
    ?
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Sea Trials and mods.
    Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a
    charger
    for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) it's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with
    charger
    s) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made in China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. it's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". in saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Tarpon hardware help
    Hi Gordon, "the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I reckon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery." In that case an SLA (especially the types produced to power alarm and emergency lighting systems) would be your best bet. They can be left on trickle charge indefinitely. Two 6V in series might be better than one 12V to help with trimming out the boat. I use a pair of 6V 3Ah (about 600gm each) in my 135cm destroyer and 107cm submarine. They run for hours if I don't keep the pedal to the metal all the time. πŸ˜‰ Back home I stick 'em on the trickle
    charger
    and leave 'em until the next outing. They've lasted my several years so far. Much longer than my NiMhs. An NiMh looses approx 1% of it's charge per day. So, assuming it starts fully charged, in 3 months or less it would be in Deep Discharge and have joined the Dodos😭 Cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for Β£20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable
    charger
    . The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for Β£60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Brushless motors (again)
    Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery,
    charger
    . I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve
    8 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    RC....mixers? And other unknowns..
    Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance
    charger
    and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC β€˜s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill
    8 months ago by BW3
    Forum
    Margaret's health
    Hi John, Yes, two or three times actually. I wanted to know the current the
    charger
    is rated for. Should be on a label or embossed on the case somewhere. Given that the calculation is easy. V=I*R --> R=V/I Given an initial charging voltage of approx 7.4 +10% = 8.14V and a charge current of 0.5A; V=15-8.14 --> 6.86 R=6.86/0.5 --> 13.72Ω so you need a 12 or 15Ω resistor. P=I*V = 0.5*6.86 --> 3.43W. So you need at least a 5W resistor. A ceramic resistor if there is enough space. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hobby King receiver clones
    Colin, I first entered the world of proportional RC with a set called a Mini-Hex, in 1971. I bought it from the model shop in the arcade in Exeter. it cost a bloody fortune! 2 Function, essentially a copy of the Kraft set, but made in Belvedere, Kent. I still have it and as far and I know it still works, except the old DEAC battery pack is defunct, of course. it even came with it's own metal cased
    charger
    . Green frequency only, can't be changed! Cheers, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c-32_62.html 24V
    charger
    s / balancers won't be cheap thoughπŸ€” 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low voltage' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!πŸ˜‰) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    SLA Batteries!
    I have checked the batteries. They are OK! Their polarities are +_+, -_-. I have also checked the
    charger
    . It's polarity is OK as well! I suspect the ESC! it's a PNP ESC!
    10 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries
    Hi all, has anyone any experience of using these new 1.5v batteries? There are some that appear β€˜normal’ in terms of charging, and a new breed of batteries with a micro usb slot in the top, needing a special usb
    charger
    . Any info appreciated before I order some! Thanks, Eric
    10 months ago by EricMB
    Forum
    1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries
    charger
    needs to be any suitable WALL WART IIRCCπŸ‘
    10 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries
    Hi John, Yep, I heard that too. Don't see any real advantage though. Button cells are cheap enough (keep 'em in the fridge to hold their capacity longer) and it's a lot of faffing about and ANOTHER
    charger
    !😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Graupner Jumbo 540 motors
    hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. if you don't want to go LiPo cos of
    charger
    s etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Mtroniks Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V πŸ‘πŸ‘ I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro-Marine-10.htm You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Mtroniks-marine-Speed-Controllers.html There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Graupner Jumbo 540 motors
    I think it would be worth the risk of running the DC Motors at 7.2v (NiMh) or second choise 7.4v (Lipo) and get rid of the 6v lead acid battery. The chance of damaging the motor is limited, the battery packs will be lighter than an equivalent lead acid, but will need to by a
    charger
    as well. Always put a fuse in line rated 5 amps below that of the ESC. Or buy two higher voltage motor? only Β£6.99 each plus P&P link copy and paste into browser address:- https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/graupner-speed-600-8-4v-motor/
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    ESC info...
    I was looking at that one! But as for the programming card...Gawd knows. I wouldn't know where to begin! Right now I'm bloody panicking as I can't find the Supermarine motor for the Crash Tender! I thought it was in the old motor drawer, but it ain't. I'm crossing fingers it's in a box in the loft. My son-in-law will have to go up there when the weather cools. Even he doesn't deserve the temperatures up there! Got my watt meter today, so that's now in a box with the condition meter and multi-meter, oh and the chenglish
    charger
    and its power pack. BL motor and CNC 32mm prop still on the slow boat. So the ESC will be the last of the clobber for a while. By the time I have it all together it'll be Winter and all put away again! Thanks again, Doug. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Air screw driven hydro
    Don't do it! Use a river or a public lake. We HAVE to middle finger the arseoles who would have us using electrics as a matter of course. Rivers and canals can be used with ease as the real thing is already dirtying up the water, which, of course, the wild life are well used to. As an air boat would never be used that much anyway, keep it for when you travel to a river. Keep the electrickery for the Jobswuffs. AM 15 is a great little motor. I used to have one. Alweays started easily. Trouble is these days the fuel ain't exactly cheap, but then, neither is a brushless motor, Li-Pos, special
    charger
    , watt meter, battery condition meter, special wires and connectors, and of course special ESC which will almost certainly burn out like they all seem to eventually. Failing that put it on the shelf and await interested questions! Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Which battery?
    I tend to use LiPo's but they can be temperamental and need the correct
    charger
    . They are smaller and lighter than NiMH and give you a much greater output. NiMH are similar in size to LiPo but are heavier and will not have the same sort of power available. Lead acid are the easiest to use in terms of charging but are much heavier and larger then the other 2 types but tend to be cheaper. Lead acid are a good option if you need the ballast or are not limited on physical size. Cost is also a consideration a good quality
    charger
    can be an hefty investment but will serve you well and if you buy the correct type will charge/discharge any battery type that you have. I have heard horror stories about LiPo's bursting into flames, which my son did with his RC car. this was down to him not understanding this type of battery. I have not had good results in terms of endurance with NiMh but Lipo's if correctly selected will last much longer, a word of warning here though, they will stop working suddenly with no indication like running slow etc so if using LiPo's you will, need an alarm on each battery. Lead acid is much easier to in terms of Voltage either 6 or 12v with real problems when connecting them in series or parallel for use or charging, a little harder with the other two types but not impossible. This has probably confused you even more but I am sure you will come the correct battery. I have to confess I have an interest in this build as I intend it to be my next projectπŸ‘
    11 months ago by marlina2
    Forum
    Inspiration for beautiful boat builders ;-)
    Doug, I think compared with how it was relatively recently, there are, for argument's sakes almost no real scratchbuilders any more. I mean take, or preferably make a drawing and, using stock materials, make a model of something for which there are no kits. And there, the grain of truth is already branching out into a full tree. And that ain't gonna get any better when your own grandchildren, who have grown up watching you make stuff still can't conceive of working at a bench to make something they want, because they can't use their 'phone. I feel sorry for them on one hand and on the other I don't give a shit because I won't be around to see their despair when the power runs out and they wish they'd listened. My two twin granddaughters believe that a portable
    charger
    will always be able to charge their 'phones, wherever they are. Common sense has not even taught them to question where IT gets its power. OK, their education so far has been woeful and finally is improving now they've changed schools, but really, should that be necessary in the modern age? But that's a different topic altogether. On a better note, I have finally heard from someone local who wants to meet up for a coffee and a natter to discuss running model boats on the local river, a calm and canalised thing with almost no flow and a bridge to get both sides. Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Longer run time
    Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special
    charger
    and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.
    11 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi folks, I have just received the 5 cell battery pack for my yacht R/C gear, but it come with no words and music, so I don't know if it's charged or not and am worried about using it with RC gear in case being under charged is dangerous to the gear. I also have a brand new, never used imax B6
    charger
    . Never used because I can't make head nor tail of the instructions. Can anyone help me with all this lecktrickery, please? Beyond 4 AAs in a wall wart I am completely green with battery charging. (BTW, why wall WART exactly?) Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi Martin, No need to get yer knickers in a twist 😲 With the NiMh just stick 'em on your iMax every 2 months and run 'em through a discharge / charge cycle. Otherwise in three months they'll probably be Dodo-like πŸ€” NiMh batts lose about 1% charge per day. So, assuming fully charged to start with, they will die in about three months. They should not be discharged below 1.0V per cell or they most likely will not recover and will not take a charge anymore. Your TX LiPo you have no control over so just rely on the
    charger
    in the TX. Over winter just switch it on every month or so and check if the red LED lights. if it does stick it on charge until the green LED lights again. Your other LiPo you can give a Storage charge with the iMax. Check it with your Capacity Tester now and again. Storage charge will probably indicate 30 to 50%. if it's less than 30% put it on a Storage charge again. Voltage per cell should never be allowed to go below 3.0V MINIMUM. Start a Battery Diary!! Cheers, Doug 😎 Back to hull sanding for me 😑 P'ing down again today so no outdoor sprayingπŸ€” Just discovered construction fault in my fish cutter😲 First hull planks were set flush with the keel bottom instead of leaving about 1/4" of keel showing 😭 To saw or not to saw ? That is the question!!
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    your IMAX
    charger
    will handle a single cell LiPO fine! so you can put the LiPO into its storage state if your not going to use the TX for an extended time. http://learn.trossenrobotics.com/arbotix/arbotix-external-hardware/11-lipo-battery-guide.html Some good data there on the care and feeding of LiPo batteries
    12 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi Martin, sorry was distracted by primer/filling my PTB πŸ˜‰ "Don't worry, BE happy" (Sing along now folks!) 😁 Haverlock is right, the TX will have the necessary
    charger
    electronics built in so should cut off when required. Keep an eye on it though and check the temp with your finger tips now and again. The USB connection is 5V and usually anywhere between 0.5 and 2Amps. The TX
    charger
    will just take what it needs, so Plug & Play away πŸ‘ I don't expect it will take much more than an hour-anna-half to charge. What Haverlock forgot was that a 1S ain't got no balancer plug cos it's only got one cell! Use the TX to charge it. Don't get more charged up than usual πŸ˜πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    If the charge lead plugs into the transmitter while the LiPO is still connected it probably has the needed electronics to limit the charge. Failing that you can charge the LiPO from your main
    charger
    just plug the LiPO lead into the
    charger
    balance port
    12 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi, looks like you've already got the Tamiya connector on that one lead. Just put the 4mm plug on the red lead and you're good to go! If you only recently bought the NiMh batts they can't be dead yet. Half dead maybe 😁 Re charging: 1 what voltage and capacity is the battery? 2 what current does the
    charger
    supply? Look at the info on a label or embossed on the back. Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Right, thanks, Doug, I think I get that. I need to get a Tamiya female connector with 4mm plugs on tother end for the nimh packs, although they could be dead too by now. I didn't get a Spektrum combo as I knew I could get a perfectly good Rx. cheap and as ever I have to watch what I spend carefully. I didn't expect Greeno to flog me a dead 'un. So this time I bought FlySky and in order to get it for an amazing 20 quid, it turned out to be one of those pistol jobbies. I don't like the look of them, I must say. I couldn't think of anything worse than buggy racing, BUT that's what comes with a 20 quid spend. I might make a ship's wheel to go on the steering twiddler On the yacht the sails will be going out as the throttle goes forward and in when it's pulled back. Seems logical to me. Thanks for the info on the
    charger
    bits, but could you tell me how long to charge the LiPo in the Tx? There's nothing in the instructions about it as it must be a modern upgrade. The leaflet says put in 4 newly charged AAs! Cheers, Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? if that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the
    charger
    . Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the
    charger
    and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the
    charger
    knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the
    charger
    '! if so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on
    charger
    s the smaller EH. it's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😑 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it πŸ€” At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding πŸ˜‰ Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami πŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the
    charger
    's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the
    charger
    put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. it went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. it was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? it all works, perfectly, out of the box. it's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! it musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? it currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    That's exactly what I would recommend HaverlockπŸ‘ I have such jigs for all the common plug / socket types I use. Also a small vice with rubber jaws πŸ˜‰ Martin; surely you got at least one charging lead with the
    charger
    ? Post a pic of it please, also of your batteries so we can see what plugs they have. Reason for the big 'ole in 4mm plugs; they are intended for high currents so you need a thick wire! I also thought of the screw plugs. Only snag is that they are usually nickel or silver plated and they corrode so the connection is not so reliable. 'Gold don't do nuffink wiv nuffink' πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Help, Doug!! I just bought a pack of gold plated 4mm plugs for my iMax
    charger
    . it didn't come with any! Leads for everything else, but no way of plugging them in unless they're LiPos, which I know nothing about. The plugs turned up today, BUT, the hole in the top is HUGE! How does one go about soldering a fiddly little wire into such a massive 'ole! They come with red and black heat shrink, but only for AFTER you get the battery wires into the plugs. I'm assuming I'll have an "other half" plug to plug the battery pack wire into, which I can then solder these mahusive plugs onto. Why is all this stuff so bloody difficult?! Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? it would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of
    charger
    y caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the CatalinaπŸ˜‰, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😑) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.πŸ‘ In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheapπŸ˜‰) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice LudditeπŸ˜‰ NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effectπŸ€” albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the belowπŸ˜‰ Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend SandyπŸ˜‰πŸ˜²) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately notπŸ€” Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo
    charger
    s use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperatureπŸ˜‰ Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    as to charging and discharging a battery pack. if you leave an NiMH pack untouched for long enough it winds up DEAD, So if your not using a pack for any length of time you should cycle it every couple of months. if your using a pack regularly and just " topping up" the charge again its a good idea to cycle it occasionally to keep the capacity ( I know NiMH are not supposed to have the " memory" problems NiCads had but.......). Yes the
    charger
    senses the battery condition and stops when charged. However its good practice to never leave a
    charger
    running unattended and to touch the pack often to make sure its not cooking.
    1 year ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    ok step 1) plug in your
    charger
    step 2 ) keep hitting the STOP button until you can see "Program select NiMH BATT" step 3) press start step 4) a status button until you see "NiMH CYCLE DCHG>CHG 1" connect up your battery pack and press start!
    1 year ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Mornin' Martin, my PTB problems will take a while to sort but I was anticipating a complete refit anyway. Soooo --- Basically Ron's right about the
    charger
    πŸ‘ Press 'Batt Type' and then 'Dec' a few times until 'PROGRAM SELECT NiMh BATT (pic one) appears in the display. Press 'Enter' and pic two should appear. Press 'Dec' so that 'NiMH CHARGE Aut' appears in display. Seems the default current is set to 0.6A in this mode. Leave it at that. If not 0.6A use the INC/DEC button to adjust it to that. Press 'Start/Enter' for more than 3 seconds and away it'll go. Charge time depends on the capacity of the battery. Rule is Capacity (C) in Ah/Charge current (I)x1.4 hours. Example; a 2Ah (2000mAh) at 0.6A would need (2/0.6)x1.4 = 4.66r hours, or about 280 minutes. The
    charger
    should stop at the right time automatically. BUT: check the capacity of your new battery with your new toy first! If it has residual capacity significantly greater than about 30% and voltage of more than 1.1V it should be fully discharged down to 1.0V minimum first. There is a function in the
    charger
    to do this. Then charge it as above with the Auto mode at 0.6A. This is to help prevent the so called memory effect. Extract from imax manual page 9- "Some rechargeable batteries have a memory effect. if they are partly used and recharged before the whole charge is accomplished, they remember this and will only use that part of their capacity next time. This is a 'memory effect' it is said that NiCd and NiMH batteries are suffering from memory effect. NiCd has more memory effect than NiMH." Don't get too charged upπŸ˜‰ I envy you listening to 'The Navy Lark' 😲 A Sunday afternoon delight back then. Before or after 'Desert island Discs'? HMS Troutbridge, Capt. Poby "HENRY are you wearing odd socks?" - "No my love", Number One Sub Lieutenant (Leslie) Philips "Cor! Who threw that?", CPO (Bill) Pertwee, and "Bridge? Staaarboard Lookout Able an' when am I gonna be Leadin' Seaman Goldsteen (?) 'ere. I jus' thought you might like to know that we're 'eadin straight for the Admiral's Barge an' maybe you'd like to change course or summat"! Luvly stuff 😁 Cheers and good night from Munich, Doug 😎 PS: Well meant Haverlock but I wouldn't recommend fast charging for any battery chemistry, MAX 1A charge current for any battery, except perhaps a car battery but then Max 5A. it reduces the useful lifetime of the battery. Fast charge rates are more or less a marketing gimmick, it just means you CAN charge at higher rates without the battery exploding. Of course the manufacturers are very happy if you do do it and then have to buy new batteries more frequently because you've reduced their capacity and shortened their life. Most especially a brand new battery should NEVER be Fast charged. To get maximum life and capacity out of a new battery it should actually run through about 10 discharge / charge cycles to condition it for maximum output and minimum memory effect. Martin: check the label or packaging of your battery for 'Standard' and 'Fast' charge current! PPS: a fully charged 5 cell NiMh can be significantly above 6.0V. Up to ~6.5V, which is why I warned Martin to check the specs of his RX and any ESC. Some are rated for 5V only and go pop at 6V. That's why I only use 4 cell NiMh packs for my external RX supply. 1.2V per cell is only the nominal rating of an NiMh cell, fully or over charged they can go up to nearly 1.28V per cell.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    ok here we go ( I hope) your 5 cell pack is rated for so many mAh we need to know that pls. You need to decide if you want to quick or slow charge the pack. Since the pack is 1.2V per cell it has a fully charged voltage of 6V. The
    charger
    will ( if you page through the screens and select MiMh ) switch off when the pack is fully charged. However you do need to select the charge current. That's why we need to know the pack rating.
    1 year ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Heat sink! That's the devil. I kept thinking heat shrink, for some reason. I see "wall wart" describing plug-in
    charger
    s for 4 cells, but why "wart" I don't know. Looks a right mess in there, Doug, but at least you know what to do. Conrad...used to go in for a nose when I was in Munich. I worked in Sauerlach for about 6 months. Loved it. Conrad seemed to have everything, especially for making working scale model trucks. Wonderful place. I really appreciate your helping me out, mate, as I haven't got a bloody clue about charging batteries. But sort your problems out first. Meanwhile I'll make some nice wee boxes to put the batteries and Rx in, to limit any chance of water ingress. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    "Heat getting ridder" Just what you don't want your craft to do "SINK" Wall wart is usually used to describe any plug-in
    charger
    or transformer i;e;crimbo lights.
    1 year ago by Wingcoax
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi Martin, there's loads of the little beasts here on eBay UK, and cheaper than mine was here in Germany 😭 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XDigital+Battery+Capacity+Checker.TRS0&_nkw=digital+battery+capacity+checker&_sacat=0 More on the
    charger
    later, I just melted an ESC in my PTB 😑 Odd, port engine worked, stbd 'Machinery Control Room' burst into flames. And no, I didn't wire it up! I bought it 'as is' to renovate and convert to PT109, what else!? Now about to rip out all the wiring and do it My Way (thanks to FrankπŸ˜‰) Ciao, Doug PS HobbyKing do have some, but more expensive which is unusual for them😲 and not in stock in UKor EU warehouse😭 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/cellmaster-7-digital-battery-health-checker.html?___store=en_us SORRYπŸ€” forget this last one, they put a servo tester where on mine the NiMH tester is!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Doug, Gawd bless yer , Guv'nor, I knew you'd come through with the advice on electrical stuff. My Dad would be ashamed of me as that was his game, but I could never raise interest and therefore retain any knowledge he ever imparted to me about it. A wall wart is what I've seen those little plug in the wall
    charger
    s that do 4 AAs or AAAs and charge up overnight described as, mainly by overseas chaps. They do, however become alarmingly warm sometimes, but do a good job for my camera and my wee digital radio, so I can always catch the Goons or the Navy Lark on BBC 4 Extra, or some good new music on Guy Garvey's programme on 6Music. So they work, but I have a pack, now, pre soldered, of 5 cells. My Orange Rx and servos are happy with 6Volts or so their blurb says. I'll look up a battery condition meter and get one. I just ordered a Multimeter to just do volts. Always a good adjunct to a household anyway. I have my Dad's two Avometers in their original leather cases, but can no longer get the high voltage batteries they contain. Found a miniature Avo in a smaller leather case, but don't know how to use it. I hope you can get some sense out of the words and music for the imax B6
    charger
    . Off to eat myself (eat myself?) Eats, shoots and leaves Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    hi martin using the imax b6 for the basics is pretty simple once you switch it on you short press the first button (battery type) to select the type of battery lipo,nihm,nicd,leadgel once you have selected your battery type and all leads are connected just long press the last button on the right (start) and it well start charging the battery, but if charging a lipo you will need to short press the start button again for it to start charging.if you want to stop the
    charger
    mid way just short press the battery type button. hope this helps Ron
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? πŸ€” 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged batteryπŸ‘ But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartacheπŸ˜‰ Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re
    charger
    : Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    What Li-po?
    It's a great old-timer ( it was my boy dream back in time, BTW s... I'm getting old 😱) Stay with 540's and go for LiPo's, for the difference in weight vs capacity you will get a very long time on the water. But you need to get a proper high quality balancing
    charger
    to take care of your LiPo's. I have changed to LiPo's in almost all my models.
    1 year ago by Tica
    Forum
    What Li-po?
    Hi Yngvegr, basically I agree with FlackπŸ‘ But if you want to go step by step and test it with the 540s first (will give you a Datum to compare with brushless at a later stage) then- Brushed have no problem with LiPos, or any other battery chemistry for that matterπŸ˜‰ For the voltage anything from 6 to 12V is fine for the 540. I have two 540s in my 135cm destroyer and she ran just fine on a 6VSLA, with a relay to switch a second one in series for 'All Ahead Emergency'! Higher capacity brings not only more sailing time but also more weight! Suggest you weigh the existing batteries and check the waterline and trim in the 'domestic test tank' before you buy the biggest batts you can findπŸ˜‰ If you do go LiPo don't forget to buy an appropriate
    charger
    and a Capacity Tester as well!!! Whatever you do, have fun doing it, cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    advise required
    Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries,
    charger
    & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug
    charger
    Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated
    1 year ago by teejay
    Forum
    Its good day, its a bad , its a great Day
    Hi all good stuff that I order arrived quicker than expected, bad day one of the props the wrong size good day quick phone call to Cornwall models sorted. great day I was getting a bit worried out sailing the boats I am making as it looked like I would have to go in Edinburgh or Glasgow to sail them, so last night I fired an email of to Falkirk trust who look after the kelpies and the helix park with has a large lagoon I expected a no go as far as sailing the boats, so great news they said ok no caveat's or conditions except that boats that use fuel are not allowed, and if their are no other organised events on, So after reading so much on the site about clubs folding and boating lakes closing and not been looked after and also the rarity of boat sites in Scotland we now have a site that is easy to get too right next to the motorway that goes for Glasgow Edinburgh and even Perth would to be to far. And I the lucky boy live at its front door so next job after the boat is a trailer for the mobility scooter to carry the boats I think someone did something with a golfing trolley so its praise your god and pass the battery
    charger
    , but it is good that the Falkirk community trust is going to let boats on the lagoon
    1 year ago by teejay


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