Forum

LiPo batteries

Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short . My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Response

Brave Borderer

Canobus, Have not done a diagram yet, but can explain the Tx settings. if that will suffice can write something up shortly. The instructions are fairly sketchy.

5 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter

I have now connected the batteries and entered into the Aux channel mode on the TX. I have set gear to channel 5 and throttle hold to channel 6. Two of my lighting s now work perfectly using the gear switch and the throttle cut switch on the Tx. I just need one more to enable the third to light. there are still two or three two position switches available to use but are not supported in the Aux channel menu. I am told that they can be used by altering the mix menu but I am afraid this goes beyond me at this time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

RC

Since your going to replace your Tx and Rx consider a computer radio like the taranis. Each of your rudder servos can be on its own dedicated channel as can the ESC for each motor. Using the built in mixing functions you can "tune" the setup so as to get the effects your looking for plus you can do things like both rudders moving in opposite directions to give a brake effect. Setting up the mixing looks difficult but once your into it, it follows a logic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g&t=21s

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

RC

Am considering changing my Dumas pushboat San Pedro from single motor control to twin control to improve manueverability. I also plan on installing flanking rudders at the same time. I am going for a 6 channel transceiver setup. Have not been able to find any diagrams for what is needed or wiring involved. Any assistance would be gratefully appreciated!

5 years ago by Mariner85

Forum

RC

looking at flanking rudders you will need another servo working these and this can be either with a another channel or a Y connector working all servos have a look at "Google" how flanking rudders work hope this helps

5 years ago by jacko

Blog

Electrics in the cabin

Progress on the main build is slowed at the moment so that I can complete the electrical installation. I have decided to route all of the wires inside of the original outer sleeve. I have removed the wires and replaced only the ones I need. I have stuck them to the inside walls as I do not like them hanging everywhere. Perhaps they look a little like insulated pipes, at least that is what I tell myself. I have terminated all of the wires into two 9 pin connectors. These will then connect directly into a small ABS enclosure where I have a flasher and a pcb with all of the resistors for the LED`s. I have wired in this manner so that all I need to do to completely remove the cabin is to disconnect the two connectors.All of the remaining s can remain in the hull. A little more work is required in the hull to fit and wire the switches to operate the equipment from other switches on the transmitter.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Hi just a thought the VIPER 25 AMP has a BEC (Battery Elimination ) built into it and if you connect a power supply to your receiver as well to power from the motor battery all manner of thing can go wrong John

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Being Sociable.

My Dear Gary, If you wish to start a Steamer thread then why not title it as such? In no way did I wish to be AntiSocial. I simply responded to your somewhat provocative question, which I quoted in my previous post, as did several others on the site in similar vein. Whilst I admire those who can build steam engines, and I have done that on this site, I simply listed in my response to your (perhaps rhetorical question?) the obstacles that most modellers are faced with when it comes to steam power in models. Perhaps I should have added number 7. - For most of us the SHIP is the main objective and not the power plant which in the vast majority of cases is hidden under deck. If steam is your THING - GREAT I have no problem with that. More power to your boiler 😊 It just won't work in my ships and boats. Esp. my subs 😉 And I don't have the patience for all the faffing about necessary to get going at the lake - one of my six points mentioned above. And I suspect that goes for many other contributors to this site. My post simply consolidated several similar responses from other members. You write; "I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share ..." I would be MOST interested to read your refuting of ALL my six points if you have some valid arguments. Throughout my professional engineering life I have always been open to alternative ideas and solutions. So prove me wrong and uncross my wires please. I look forward to your point by point refutation. BTW; as an experienced electronics engineer I always carefully double check my s before applying power - so crossed wires are not normally a problem with me. Similar principle also applies to my considered response to your posts. Regards, Doug 😎 PS: did you build your steam engines or buy them? There are some guys on this site whom I admire very much, but can not emulate, who build their own. PPS: Quote "In the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat." Fine, if that's your THING, does come across as a little fanatical though.🤔

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Painting

I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

hi ya Doug, I think you may find there is a difference between the 20 amp and 10 amp version of the P94 other than aluminium heat sink. board is slightly different as well 👍 John

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

Hi Ron. I have a reasonable knowledge of electronics and wiring but my difficulty lies in the board designs, especially when IC`s are involved. Fortunately this site has some very good people willing to help. I have been helped a lot by Doug, (RNinMunich) who is always happy to advise. Due to only requiring a small quantity of electronic items such as LED`s at a time, I buy most of them through ebay. I would recommend bright_components for LEDs and resistors. They sell most things needed for the boat builder where electronics are concerned. 😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

Cabin detail part 6 panel light

Cabin detail part 6 panel light The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing board. (this came as a kit for just £3:90) The board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a video of it working. The LEDs on the board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

"........Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...." That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified ? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post? ".........Do those boards follow the diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'? Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Holy SMOKE !! Video, Tin Can Madness

Hi Joe, "If an alarm was used, you still need to get it back to shore before it .........." That's why I suggested a to cut off the power to the heating coil. An alarm is only useful if you are 'hanging around on the spot' to do something about it! 😲 Do you have 'the Vision' now? 😉 PS That's also why I made the decoder to make mine RC.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC

The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last ‘photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Hum, Now What!

Captain's Log: Continued! I have found where the leak is coming from! It's coming from above the shaft as it exits the hull! I'm not sure why it's leaking. The area is tricky to get to. As it's deep in the hull! An hard to get to. Since the hull is made of plastic. Am thinking of making a flange plate! And gluing it to the aft end of the hull On the outside of the hull! But, of course need to see where the leak. Is coming from the outside...…. I have already looked into getting a water pump. Also a water detection to activate the pump!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

fuses

Schnellboot Radio control setup 3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s Batteries are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack All Batteries are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short s on the connections or switches can anyone help

5 years ago by teejay

Forum

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring

Absolutely Steve 👍 Alternative is to make a holder for the magnet to prevent it getting knocked off by weeds etc. Also agree that any Failsafe' s must have an independent power supply. Place to put the switch, or latching relay, is definitely in place of the little slide switch usually supplied on the ESC. Just checked on some of my ESCs, Graupner and mTroniks, the red lead to the switch is NOT connected to the red lead supplying the RX and servos via the built in BEC. Guess the switch just triggers an FET switch inside the ESC. So the normal 500mA limit of reed switches will be enough. if a latching relay is used make sure the pull-in current is less than 500mA. Have fun All, cheers, Doug 😎 Eric; which sub is your mate building? I have a Type 1A U-Boat dynamic diver, speed and planes only, and a kit for an Akula 2 which will be a static diver, with tank etc.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Smoke generator

I assume marlina2 is using the same as the one I linked to, no required other than a 24v supply. The fan speed and the depth of water over the transducer seem to be the key factors in how much vapour is produced. I’m using a single funnel and twin transducers in mine, if I ever get it packaged small enough to fit in my model !

5 years ago by landie

Forum

Smoke generator

OK landie. A known technique. So it's a steam/water vapour generator, not smoke. No wonder it's not too visible.🤔 Would be interested to see the that Marlina used to generate the ultrasonic waves in his home brew version. Nevertheless, think I'll stick to 'oil burners'.😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

fuse holder

Do those boards follow the diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'?

6 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. it seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate s. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate s and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

6 years ago by Rowen

Response

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY

The pump was installed to give positive water flow even when stationary. Felt this would ensure cooling under most conditions. The plumbing is quite torturous and suspected there might be a significant head drop in the . With the wisdom of hindsight, probably overkill; the water scoop between propellers may prove adequate.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Mixer

Hi TJ, Answer to both questions is NO! 1 Connecting all the ESC switches together is like leaving all three of the red wires in the RX leads connected. If you mean a main power switch for the ESCs (not the little slide switch attached to the ESC) then consider that the switch would have to cope with a current of 3 times the max current rating of the ESC!!! For example; for 30A ESCs that would be 90A 😲 pretty big switch! 2 The object of the mixer is to control the ESCs of the two outer motors depending on the rudder setting, not to replace them somehow. If you mean two of the little slide switches being made redundant; again NO! They are there to switch on the ESC's internal ry, incl. BEC, without it they won't woik 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby King receiver clones

I had realised that John, the acronym DEAC had simply revived some ancient memories of my early days in mobile and hand-portable radio engineering. ry and components, early ICs etc, were moving on much faster than battery development could keep pace. Good to hear from you👍 Pecker up old chap, with you in spirit. Best wishes, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors

Hi, Doug. I’ve been plugging away at some of the work that doesn’t call for really good eyesight, such as stripping off the “Richardson” name & repainting here & there. I still can’t see well enough to work on the microscopic board modifications. The last of the parts that I ordered arrived last Thursday so everything is finally on hand. I hope the infection goes away for good soon & stays away. it’s really discouraging. Fingers crossed for better days. Pete

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Nomenclature...

Doug a quick one for you I've got a wall wart with a blown / burnt resistor. The rest is working fine and I would like to replace the resistor and put back into use with the model it belongs to. I can't read the res as its burnt black (output leads got shorted.) it's the last one in the ( output lead ) Voltage up to it is 15v. it is to charge 7.4v Ncads/ Nimhs AA/AAA packs. I can't work out what the value should be. Should be simples for you if you'd be so kind as to do the maths for me. I'll luv ya forever if you do. Not literally of course but ye know warrimean. Regards John👍 No comments like ducky etc please. Oh yes remember your remarks re our local pubs? The owner of our nearest the STAR ( ex plough Still got one on roof of main windows) rang our bell. He'd seen Marg go off in an ambulance 2 days on the trot and wanted to know if he could help.( We were customers now and again) He brought a wine for Marg and a nice flask of bitter each for Ant and I. Luvverly. He stayed about 2 hours nattering and when he left he said ring him if we needed help any time. We had the same offer from a young chap who helped Marg up the path too with a mate. Our adjoining neighbour looked after their shopping. Starting to see some signs of neighbourliness again it seems.👍😁.

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Nomenclature...

Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator s of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS if you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Nomenclature...

Hi Martin, 'Linear' in this context just means more or less a passive analogue device, and when it's on it's ON full stop. Decades ago I made my own with a simple one chip using a 3 legged voltage regulator L7805 5V 1A and they're still going strong😊 The SBEC uses a fast switching type of power , similar to the pulsed DC outputs of the ESCs. The switched type is an active device and is more efficient, less battery power wasted as heat, but can cause interference with older 27 / 40Meg RC receivers. Shouldn't affect 2.4Gig sets though. Cheers, Doug. PS even in a blackout I think I would find my way to the wine cooler or my malt whisky! 😁😋

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Nomenclature...

Hi Martin, BEC is the Battery Eliminator built into an Electronic Speed Controller. UBEC is a Universal BEC which takes power from the main (drive) battery and supplies 5V or 6v to the receiver. it can be a linear device. SBEC does the same job as a UBEC but is a so called Switched device which is more efficient than a linear. So functionally for our purposes there is no difference. Alles klar Herr Kommissar!? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

lastest progress

Hi TJ, that instruction is quite correct👍 It indicates that the ESCs have Battery eliminator s (BEC) which means that there is an internal which 'syphons' off 5V from the main drive battery to supply the receiver via the red wire in the ESC to RX cable. The ESC itself takes it's power from the drive battery. If all three red wires are left connected this will cross couple all three BEC s and may well damage the ESCs. The RX only needs one power supply! 😉 In my multiple shaft boats I usually disconnect all the red leads from ESC to RX and fit a separate RX battery. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries

Yet another wart in the wall!? I'm runnin' out of wall sockets as it is!😲 Lost track of how many times the breaker has tripped 🤔 G'night all, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

BRAVE BORDERER

Decided to separate the two power systems; one to the port ESC and motor and the other the starboard. Hope this will reduce interference between the motor systems. Have also reverted to a remote battery powered Rx rather than the BECC system, again to reduce possible interference. The modifications did not resolve the problems. The squeal and stutter are still present, but much reduced. Sounds rather like a slipping coupling, but as these have been checked many times they can be eliminated. Apart from the squeal and the stutter, everything works well. The squeal /stutter occurs at start up, when it happens the control is returned to neutral, if the motor is immediately reselected, usually the problem goes away and the motor runs up cleanly. it only occurs when both motors are selected at the same time. Either runs up cleanly when selected individually. Interestingly enough, did some research on various Model Boats site and found some references to RF interference, no specific solutions though. Also examined some Aero modeling sites as they use powerful brushless motors with ESCs. There is some history of the problem there. Evidently when the mosfets (?) of the ESCs convert DC to AC, RF interference is generated. it can often be addressed by using ferrite rings on the ESC control leads. My latest ESCs actually have ferrite rings, so the problem must have been anticipated. This might account for the latest reduction in squeal and stutter levels. Am at a loss to think of any other modifications, so decided to conduct a water test. Maybe it is a characteristic of brushless motors, but their control response seems “ragged”, not smooth as with a brushed. Anyway, the squeal and stutter seemed reduced yet again, perhaps the water load damped them down. Was able to start exploring both the performance envelope and the viability of the brushed centre shaft motor. First impressions are that on a 2S battery the performance is fine, but it sparkles on 3S. On 3S the stutter and squeal are more pronounced though. intend to do further trials but, unless something unexpected occurs, now plan to use 2S power. The centre brushed motor idea works well, this layout seems a good compromise. Will design a simple switching to ensure the brushless motors can selected separately. This will avoid the inadvertent operation of both brushed and brushless unintentionally as they are on the same control stick. The brushed can then be used for low speed operation. Returning to the problem of squeal and stutter – has anybody else experienced this and how was it resolved?

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

1.5v AA Li-Fe/Li-ion/Li-po batteries

OK, found some! https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-JUGEE-3000mWh-1-5V-rechargeable-Lithium-li-ion-AA-battery-li-polymer/153101323059?hash=item23a58ccb33:g:hRwAAOSw44BYZ9Lo Interesting that they all quote mWh instead of mAh! I.e. energy instead of capacity! Power being V x I (Amps) divide the mWh rating by the nominal voltage to get an approximation of the capacity in mAh. Saves integrating across the varying voltage during a discharge cycle, i.e.'On Load' 😉 Thus these 3000mWh cells seem to have a capacity of around 1800mAh. Which is considerably less than the typical 2500mAh of an alkaline or NiMh AA cell. Also, to produce the output voltage of 1.5V from 3.7V Lithium chemistry the cells have an internal voltage regulator, which also must consume some power, albeit miniscule. Something else which can go wrong🤔 Summary; yer pays yer money and takes yer choice! Seem rather expensive to me for what they deliver. Depends what you want to use them for. Might be useful in my Sony camera but I wouldn't use them for any high current load in a model. OK perhaps for LED lighting s which only need a few tens of mA. Here a list of battery types, sizes and chemistries for reference. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/List_of_battery_sizes#/overview Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mahogany in Scale

Neither can I Martin! "The transmitter used two vacuum tubes wired as a multi-vibrator with a tank to constrain emissions to somewhere near the 27 M/cs band (same as MHz, but that name came later). With not a crystal in sight, transmitter frequency drift and battery voltage drain was a problem, so careful tuning just prior to short flights was the order of the day." http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html#3 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Old Futaba servo wiring...

Mornin John Re detector : it's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though 😉 Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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Old Futaba servo wiring...

Doug When you get the sorted for the B/B tester I'd like a copy please. Will it be switchable wavelength wise. I/E one to the other? Re . testing LEDS I use my multimeter set to diode testing Eezy Peezy.🤓👍

6 years ago by onetenor

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Old Futaba servo wiring...

Hi Admiral RNinMunich sir, I was going down the route of building a 2.4GHz Detector/Meter until I came across this: https://www.banggood.com/Lantian-Mini-High-Sensitive-2_4G-Frequency-Spectrograph-OLED-Displayer-Open-Source-For-RC-Drone-p-1247689.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN It works a treat and for that price it is not worth running around getting parts for a diode/capacitor/meter . Cheers from DownUnda

6 years ago by terrymiff

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Old Futaba servo wiring...

Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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LiPo batteries

Hi Pete, Do you have a Battery Capacity Checker? Like in the pics? Open voltage is NOT a reliable indication of the battery's charge state😲 As you can see in the pics my two bats, 1 LiPo one NiMh, both show voltages above the nominal value. But the capacity / charge state less than half!! Be warned! Believe I did suggest to you to note the capacities before you left Hungary last time. Whatever - Have Fun😉 Cheers, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards

By the way ... Although I've marked up the boards with Field and Brushes that's just my personal preference 😊 The beauty of this is that it is ALMOST foolproof! You can switch the field and brushes wiring over, but in pairs, or reverse the wires in either pair and it will still work, just run the other way! You can also swap the + and - from the ESC and the motor just runs the other way round! Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Good afternoon, Doug: I found the flat-topped LEDs at Ali Express. The url for these LEDs is: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32462840779.html? I’ve included another photo of the LED that has a dimensioned sketch with it. FYI, I’ve ordered lots of stuff from Ali Express, such as hobby tools & supplies, electronic components, gizmos, gewgaws & doodads. One particularly nice thing I purchased is a wireless guitar-to-amp device. Everything I’ve bought has been top-quality, but because nearly everything ships from China it can take several weeks to be delivered to me here in Massachusetts. Now for the inevitable question: If I use your drawing as it is now & modified the board, added the resistors as you’ve already indicated & connected white LEDs in all locations, everything would work OK, but some LEDs would be brighter than others because your design was based on using colored LEDs. Correct? Based on your observations & experience would any harm be done? Don’t worry, I’m not going to jump the gun without your final drawing (which I’m in no rush for...take your time). I’m just curious. Which leads to my last remark, for now. For some reason my wife thinks I ask far more questions than “normal” people do. She claims that I’m exceedingly curious. I don’t know what she means, but her offhand remarks have inspired me to rechristen the Richardson. When the LED project is complete & the tug is all ship-shape & Bristol fashion, her new name will be: “Curiosity”.

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

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Aerokits MTB, what is it?...

Doug, I always seem to be behind with this thread, missing bits. Great to hear the board is a success. I would only need three at the most, or just do the one and I can copy that to make any more. What video link do you mean? I thought Bob's boards were printed based rather than nice fat rheostats. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Mornin' Pete, First off; I must admit that this effort isn't entirely altruistic! 😉 You piqued my curiosity (very dangerous!) but I can also use this set up in my Southampton tug 😊 although I will have to build the RC switches that you have on that board.🤓 Not for the first time! For the LEDs I used these for the tests- https://www.banggood.com/search/led-3mm-100.html?direct=6&sbc=1 For a few bucks you have 100 coloured LEDs which should last you a while👍 BTW: I'll send you my mast over so you can fit the teeny weeny lamp brackets for me 😁😁 Look forward to seeing some pics of how you do that. All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, JFF I built a little 'breadboard' (now where's my peanut butter!?😁) to test your LED lighting configurations. Theory and calculation is fine but there's nowt like an acid test😉 Pics attached of the results (Christmas tree😊). Difficult to capture the colours due to the very bright white LEDs🤔 Will play with the resistors to bring up the yellows and dampen the whites a bit. The 3 yellows at the bottom are the deck and cabin lights. The 4 rows at the top are the mast lights, red and green self explanatory! Applied (battery) voltage is shown on the meter top left, current drawn in mA on the meter to the right. The s work fine from 6.0V upwards. Current drain is approx- 110mA @ 7.8V (fully charged 6 cell NiMh) 103mA @ 7.5V (probable voltage after running a little while) 90mA @ 7.2V (nominal NiMh battery voltage. it will flatten out at approx this voltage after running a while - until it suddenly collapses at the end!) 75mA @ 6.6V (voltage of FLAT 6 cell NiMh battery) 60mA @ 6.0V curiosity! Below this some LEDs switch off. Brightness is noticeably reduced. I think we can increase some resistors to reduce the current drawn without reducing the lighting effect😊 More info soon, I'm still experimenting, then I'll start modding my own tug😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, Yep, the colour of the LEDs can be determined by doping the diode chip with various elements. The early ones were either red or clear, so the colour was added in the epoxy dome around the chip. Cheap ones still are like that. Nowadays you can get LEDs that light different colours according to the voltage applied! For instance in those irritating shelf / vitrine light strings that rotate through a variety of colours all the time.😡 I have some that are red or green depending on which way round you apply the voltage! They are milky white when off. Useful for checking the operation and setup in the boat of brushed ESCs and motors, esp for multi-screw boats, and the output of switching s. Funny I always thought halogen lights were a hard white with a blue tint, like some car headlights. Cool on the Kelvin temp range. Yellow is more like the warm white light of a tungsten bulb to me. Yellow deck floodlights are more likely to be sodium lamps, like many street lamps. The measurements you sent me indicated that the switch on voltage (Vf) of the searchlight was 3V and all the others 2V. So I based my final calc on that. if any of your LEDs don't 'strike' with 150Ohm just reduce the resistor to 120 to give it a 'shove'😁 I don't expect that though. I have a box of 300 various LEDs and 1000 various resistors in front of me (and the mast from my Southampton tug😉) so will do some practical tests. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I can strongly recommend that you buy a simple LED Tester, like one of these- https://www.ebay.com/bhp/led-tester I'll help you get the LEDs the right way round in your s and tell you how much current they need for a decent brightness, and at what voltage they will turn on! Only a few bucks and saves a lot of aggro. It'll also tell you what colour a 'clear or white' one will be when it turns on😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

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LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Agree Pete, But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔). Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge. I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc. That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED s as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself. I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau. I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge! What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉 Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁 Big 3D printer and an isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps? Cheers All, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich