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    Simple Smoke Generator
    In discussion with jbkiwi, we felt it would be a good idea to bring together into one post the different smoker experiments we have each conducted to make them easier to find for anyone interested in having a go. Here is a summary of my experiments. JB will add his in time. My implementation is based on an e-cig H2 atomizer. These are readily available at low cost. The unit as purchased comprises a 2ml tank, heating coil, and a coupling which would normally connect to the e-cig electronics/battery. I made a simple end cap from acrylic which is a push fit into the coupling. Any insulating material could be used for this, even a piece of hardwood could be carved to shape. The end cap is held in place with a couple of small screws through the side of the coupling. Before fitting, it was smeared with silicone sealant to ensure an airtight seal. A central screw in the endcap can be adjusted to make electrical contact with the coil. The other contact to the coil is via the body of the coupling, using one of the endcap retaining screws. A brass tube fitted through the side of the endcap allows air to be pushed through the atomizer. For installation in my Crash Tender, I increased the capacity of the smoke fluid tank by adding an additional tank around the outside of the original atomizer tank. The smoker fluid I use is 3:1 glycerine:water. The coil seems to work best when energised with around 5 watts of power. This can be achieved by using a DC-DC converer to drop the battery voltage to around 3volts. Simple low cost buck converters are available on-line. As an alternative, a PWM electronic circuit can be used to power the coil direct from the battery voltage, provided the power to the coil does not greatly exceed 5w. I found to my cost that feeding 25w of power into the coil (circuit error!) vaporises the coil in the blink of an eye! Fortunately, replacement coils are readily available. The exposed metalwork of the atomizer typically reaches a temperature of 30 -35C while it is running but that depends on how much power you feed into it.๐Ÿ˜‰ The air pump is not critical. I have tried a couple of different types and the both work well. It is useful to be able to adjust the pump speed, and hence the volume of air being pushed through the atomizer. Small motor speed
    are easily obtainable. The atomizer works best mounted in a horizontal position. if mounted vertically, as shown in part of the video, it has a tendancy to flood the coil. By adjusting the pump speed and the coil power a range of different effects are possible. The video shows several examples of different settings. It is possible to generate just a gentle waft of smoke suitable for a funnel on a tug or a quick pulse of thick smoke possibly suitable to simulate gunfire on a destroyer. For my Crash Tender I mix pulsed smoke with water using a venturi type connector and then feed the resulting mix out through the exhaust ports. More details of the installation in the Crash Tender can be found in my Crash Tender Refit blog. Happy to try an answer any questions. Graham93
    8 months ago by Graham93
    Re: Exhaust Smoker
    Hi Michael, Thanks, glad you like it.๐Ÿ‘ Re: Is the electronic controller based on PIC microchips a commercially available item? The controller is my design based on three baseline PIC microchips. Not the most elegant of designs, as this could all be implemented in one mid range PIC with a bit more effort, but it was quick to do this way, and I have a stock of the baseline parts. PIC1 acts as a simple RCswitch monitoring the throttle channel to turn the smoker on/off. PIC2 provides the smoke pulses by turning the air pump on/off at a rate determined by the throttle channel. PIC3 implements two motor speed
    , one for the water pump, and one for the air pump. This latter speed controller is modulated by the on/off pulses from PIC2. The circuit board shows the three PICs. On the underside of the board there are three surface mount power FETs to drive the smoker coil and the two pumps. I'm happy to share more details on my current implementation of this, but it is not very configurable/transferrable unless you have experience with PICs and the necessary tools. For example, following the trial on the lake yesterday, I think it would work better if the water pump was running a bit faster. To make that happen I have to change some values in the software, and then reprogram the appropriate PIC. It was just easier to put together this way, but its not very practical on the lake.๐Ÿ™„ I have it in mind to redevelop the software on a better PIC and to add some buttons on the circuit board so that various parameters could be adjusted without having to reprogram the PICs. It will be an interesting challenge, but will take a little while as I'll have to fit it in around everything else ๐Ÿ˜‰. Graham93
    9 months ago by Graham93
    Mtronics ESC's
    I have used these speed
    for many years and never had a problem. Just recently there seems to be a few now that have burnt out or have just gone pop. I am wondering if there has been a change in the manufacturing process. It could be a good question to ask them! Martin555.
    11 months ago by Martin555
    Re: Futaba F14 Dual Thottle Installed!
    Hi Mouldbuilder, I like the Flysky
    ! I have the FS-T6. It's a nice little controller! Now your pick of the Frsky X9D Plus. Looks very good! But, I chose the Futaba F-14. Because I wanted to add the Dual Throttles! Have i mentioned the F-14 is a monster size controller! It's about a inch and a quarter bigger than a standard controller!
    11 months ago by figtree7nts
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. Quest for the correct engine sound
    Found a sound by accident which sounds quite a bit like the sound of the GM Detroit 453 2 stroke diesels fitted to this boat (still has these today) Vid from cockpit is the sound I discovered while mucking around with some old electric motors, and my new voltage
    which just turned up. I'll add the link to the real engine for comparison (next post here). Sounds to be revving really high but being 2 stroke it's only doing around 2800 rpm! https://youtu.be/faNOYteDDoM JB
    11 months ago by jbkiwi
    Electronics 43x esc
    Hi. These speed
    are really excellent quality and can handle a high degree of voltage and amps. I use two in my vosper which each handle 24 volts. Be warned though you can seriously damage them if you reverse the polarity when connecting to the battery. There are two adjustments on them. I think one is sensitivity around the low speed response which improves greater low speed control. The other is speed range which gives you adjustment on the range of speed in relation to your radio stick throw. I have found these to be excellent high quality
    giving excellent service and performance. You can wire in an anti reverse polarity circuit using a diode which is described in the instructions. Regards Kevin
    1 year ago by kevinsharpe
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    hi there Chewi having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a rudder motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4 transmitter sets. Basically, you have to set your transmitter back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your transmitter to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize speed
    from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the speed controller, thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the rudders, using mixers. In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these batteries one for each motor should give you ample run time. John
    1 year ago by JOHN
    Sydney Star
    Kit by Graupner. The ship is fitted with the MIG 500 main motor, 2 transverse motors MIG 400, 3 turnigy 45A
    , 2 pcs of 5000 mA, 3 RC light switches. Illuminated corridors beneath containers, cabin, position lights with masts, horns (Motor: MIG 500 BOAT 12V) (ESC: Turnigy 45 A) (8/10)
    1 year ago by Inkoust
    What batteries?
    HI all, I am building a 1/24th Perkasa wooden kit. And I have no idea how to power it. I have bought two Graupner Speed 700BB turbos that run from 9.6v to 12v. I don't want to use a 12v gel battery as the boat will sail like a brick! I want to use two coupled 50 amp speed
    with Lipos, but I dont think I can use them with these
    as they are for brushed motors and have a bec 5v / 1amp which I think would destroy the Lipo. What size Nimh battery pack would you recommend, and would I need two packs or would one pack be enough. I have other boats that only have one motor and are smaller than this one so have not had this sort of conundrum! I am on a limited budget so cant afford to waste money on trial and error combinations. I would be very grateful for any suggestions.๐Ÿ˜ญ
    1 year ago by Daveyboy
    What batteries?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700 motors. NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the
    . The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts. Motors would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all models. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC
    and AC motors, it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    1 year ago by Inkoust
    (Naval Ship) Fletcher
    Old Lindberg Plastic kit aprox scale 1:125 (5/10) 2018 refit, Brushed motor + gearbox removed, 2 Brushless motors + 2
    5 years ago by stevedownunder

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