All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support
Join Us On Social Media!
🏝️ About This Website
☝️ Terms of Service
Model Boats Website
Model Boats Website
Boat Clubs & Lakes
Plans & Docs
Re: Exhaust Smoker
Thanks, glad you like it.👍
Re: Is the electronic controller based on PIC microchips a commercially available item?
The controller is my design based on three baseline PIC microchips. Not the most elegant of designs, as this could all be implemented in one mid range PIC with a bit more effort, but it was quick to do this way, and I have a stock of the baseline parts. PIC1 acts as a simple RCswitch monitoring the throttle channel to turn the smoker on/off. PIC2 provides the smoke pulses by turning the air pump on/off at a rate determined by the throttle channel. PIC3 implements two motor speed
, one for the water pump, and one for the air pump. This latter speed controller is modulated by the on/off pulses from PIC2.
The circuit board shows the three PICs. On the underside of the board there are three surface mount power FETs to drive the smoker coil and the two pumps.
I'm happy to share more details on my current implementation of this, but it is not very configurable/transferrable unless you have experience with PICs and the necessary tools. For example, following the trial on the lake yesterday, I think it would work better if the water pump was running a bit faster. To make that happen I have to change some values in the software, and then reprogram the appropriate PIC. It was just easier to put together this way, but its not very practical on the lake.🙄
I have it in mind to redevelop the software on a better PIC and to add some buttons on the circuit board so that various parameters could be adjusted without having to reprogram the PICs. It will be an interesting challenge, but will take a little while as I'll have to fit it in around everything else 😉.
8 days ago by Graham93
I have used these speed
for many years and never had a problem.
Just recently there seems to be a few now that have burnt out or have just gone pop.
I am wondering if there has been a change in the manufacturing process.
It could be a good question to ask them!
2 months ago by Martin555
Re: Futaba F14 Dual Thottle Installed!
I like the Flysky
I have the FS-T6.
It's a nice little controller!
Now your pick of the Frsky X9D Plus.
Looks very good!
But, I chose the Futaba F-14.
Because I wanted to add the Dual Throttles!
Have i mentioned the F-14 is a monster size controller!
It's about a inch and a quarter bigger than a standard controller!
2 months ago by figtree7nts
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. Quest for the correct engine sound
Found a sound by accident which sounds quite a bit like the sound of the GM Detroit 453 2 stroke diesels fitted to this boat (still has these today) Vid from cockpit is the sound I discovered while mucking around with some old electric motors, and my new voltage
which just turned up.
I'll add the link to the real engine for comparison (next post here). Sounds to be revving really high but being 2 stroke it's only doing around 2800 rpm!
2 months ago by jbkiwi
Electronics 43x esc
Hi. These speed
are really excellent quality and can handle a high degree of voltage and amps. I use two in my vosper which each handle 24 volts. Be warned though you can seriously damage them if you reverse the polarity when connecting to the battery. There are two adjustments on them. I think one is sensitivity around the low speed response which improves greater low speed control. The other is speed range which gives you adjustment on the range of speed in relation to your radio stick throw. I have found these to be excellent high quality
giving excellent service and performance. You can wire in an anti reverse polarity circuit using a diode which is described in the instructions.
5 months ago by kevinsharpe
Fairmile c class maiden voyage
hi there Chewi
having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a rudder motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4 transmitter sets. Basically, you have to set your transmitter back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your transmitter to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize speed
from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the speed controller, thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the rudders, using mixers.
In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these batteries one for each motor should give you ample run time.
6 months ago by JOHN
Kit by Graupner. The ship is fitted with the MIG 500 main motor, 2 transverse motors MIG 400, 3 turnigy 45A
, 2 pcs of 5000 mA, 3 RC light switches. Illuminated corridors beneath containers, cabin, position lights with masts, horns (Motor: MIG 500 BOAT 12V) (ESC: Turnigy 45 A) (8/10)
6 months ago by Inkoust
I am building a 1/24th Perkasa wooden kit.
And I have no idea how to power it.
I have bought two Graupner Speed 700BB turbos that run from 9.6v to 12v.
I don't want to use a 12v gel battery as the boat will sail like a brick!
I want to use two coupled 50 amp speed
with Lipos, but I dont think I can use them with these
as they are for brushed motors and have a bec 5v / 1amp which I think would destroy the Lipo.
What size Nimh battery pack would you recommend, and would I need two packs or would one pack be enough.
I have other boats that only have one motor and are smaller than this one so have not had this sort of conundrum!
I am on a limited budget so cant afford to waste money on trial and error combinations.
I would be very grateful for any suggestions.😭
6 months ago by Daveyboy
Hello, my friend from a distance.
Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700 motors. NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the
. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts. Motors would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all models. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end.
In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up.
If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC
and AC motors, it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power.
Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator.
6 months ago by Inkoust
(Naval Ship) Fletcher
Old Lindberg Plastic kit aprox scale 1:125 (5/10)
2018 refit, Brushed motor + gearbox removed, 2 Brushless motors + 2