Blog

WWII Italian MAS 562

Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct s. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

The motor cover.

I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and , and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor can’t be water cooled and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer ‘rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🤞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

The prop-shaft, and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡 I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞 Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor . I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Fast Patrol Boat

Hi BOATSHED, The wooden block is screwed and araldited ti the keel and supports an Aluminium bracket designed for holding a Brushless motor in an Aeroplane, use what’s available I always say. The is Silicon tube fitted to brass universal fittings and because the way brushless run is very quiet compared to a normal Unversal Joint assembly. Will post it running shortly. Thanks for you interest. Graham

5 years ago by jelley_baby

Response

Fast Patrol Boat

How does the work, as it looks to be a flexi . There also looks like you have a wooden support under the motor? With the torque on brushless motors will it not wave about? I look forward to seeing her on the water, hope you do a bit of video of her.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Blog

New bits

Right, just been given some nice bits. Brushless outrunner FUSION 3535/05 1500kv ESC Top Edge 60A water cooled SC060B Plus a . So now to go shopping. Which make of Lipo3 and from where? What type and size of brass prop? Where to buy silicon wires and the fancy gold terminals? Steve

5 years ago by steve-d

Response

Net bins

Thanks I am having a new made.. the cable junction was to check everything runs.. it actually works quite well!!

5 years ago by GrahamP74

Media

Searcher (Nimbus2)

"Searcher" was a Graham Goodchild design offered as a free plan in "Model Boats" in December 1981. Here is my version , many years in the building and finally nearing completion. Access to the hull on the original design was via a hatch above the cockpit - I had no faith in my ability to make it water tight so went for removable grp. hatches. The model is activated by a reed switch just in front of the rear hatch, which saves me the hassle of doing/undoing all the nuts (this had not been fitted when I took the first picture). The rear hatch gives me easier access to the drive . The name "Nimbus2" is in honour of one of Dan Dare's spaceships in the Eagle comic. The third picture shows the ship in its final state with added 'enhancements' and working lights.

5 years ago by rpbidgood

Forum

Smoke generator

Good looking destroyer, the prettiest of all in my mind. What type of shaft s are those? Look rather unusual

5 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)

The s you appear to have are noisy as they are built to rather generous tolerances but if you can find a piece of rubber of a sufficient diameter you can cut a narrow band and put it on the at the point where the pins are. I used this method on my converted Southampton and it is still going well with a much, much reduced noise level

5 years ago by TheBlacksmith

Forum

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)

I'm not sure what you mean by 'earthquakes' - do you mean there was lots of vibration? The prop-shaft and the motor shaft should be aligned as precisely as you can manage. Though a universal joint will accept some misalignment, you should aim to get things so precise that there is no need for a joint! That tube looks rather thin. I use tube which is 10-12mm in OD, with about 3-4 mm thick walls. You are correct that I 'make the shafts larger' by putting little knurled knobs made from aluminium bar on them. if you do not have a lathe, you can buy similar s like this: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Robbe-Flexible--3.2-4mm-R1445.html#SID=1586

6 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)

Hi Sakibian, Why can't you use s from Cornwall Model Boats! https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Universal-Joint---Red-MA5000.html#SID=737 Maybe you can take a picture of your project to show us. What you are working on! I think the shaft should be close to the motor. Or the rubber hose will tear! Try looking for plastic tubing. Of the diameter you need! Or harder rubber tubing.... Regards, Ed

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft s. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender

Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.

8 years ago by robbob

Media

kipper

aero-naut mowe 2 kit. my first rc model boat with a few extras.The kit was ok to build but the prop was a length of silcone tube ? it spun off at the first test run.This was the start of me fitting universal s to my boats.The company were being mean using a cheap piece of tube.It runs very quiet and smooth but needed a lot of front end ballast .i made this to try and drag my grandson away from his ipad,phone and the game of fortnite .I tried to get him to help build and run it but to no avail.I now am enjoying a second childhood building boat kits !

6 years ago by keithtindley

Media

no name

made from a krick felix launch kit.As usual i have made slight changes especially in regards to the final finish of medium oak stain. The original windows were cut from a sheet using templates provided and some did not fit as they were on the small side.i used some plastic sheet i had to make my own replacements.I also changed the prop for a universal joint(i always do) I prefer the less is more approach to some models.

6 years ago by keithtindley

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Will be posting a blog update shortly describing my trials and tribulations with brushless motors. By using the "softest" start programmable ESC settings have found the squeal is largely eradicated. if you have not tried them, it is worth the trouble. The slipping will not help, but am sure that will be corrected. I am using solid universal joints, which although noisy, give a positive drive. Your boat looks to go well, but hard to judge from onboard pictures.

6 years ago by Rowen

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). it can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. if it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone s will squeal real loud if they slip.

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Doug, looks like you got it just right, no need to reduce any more as I have 6mm s and as the fan has yet to be sourced I will adjust to suit what you make the shaft. What's the lathe you are using, I may have some suitable items for it in my machine spares cabinet. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

So Colin, Last instalment for today. just finished fettling up the armature and drive shafts. Pic 1: having flattened off the ends I used a centre drill to prepare the shafts for machining using the 'live centre' on the mini lathe. Pic 2: machining the output end. Pic 3: polishing up the brush gear end, this is where you can attach your fan Colin. As shown on the micrometer I stopped at 6mm, less 2/100mm clearance, and will make the bearing bushes to suit. If you want the shafts turned down a bit more for the drive and/or the fan attachment let me know Colin. I'll keep the actual motor bearing sections of the shaft as it is at 6mm to fit the bushes I'll make tomorrow. All the best, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Ain't never no not 'eard of Iolite neiver!😲 But then I'm only an igorant lectrickery engineer 😁 Learnin' fast with all this mechanical magicery! All good fun folks, and MOST of it actually woiks!😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

BRAVE BORDERER

Decided to separate the two power systems; one to the port ESC and motor and the other the starboard. Hope this will reduce interference between the motor systems. Have also reverted to a remote battery powered Rx rather than the BECC system, again to reduce possible interference. The modifications did not resolve the problems. The squeal and stutter are still present, but much reduced. Sounds rather like a slipping , but as these have been checked many times they can be eliminated. Apart from the squeal and the stutter, everything works well. The squeal /stutter occurs at start up, when it happens the control is returned to neutral, if the motor is immediately reselected, usually the problem goes away and the motor runs up cleanly. it only occurs when both motors are selected at the same time. Either runs up cleanly when selected individually. Interestingly enough, did some research on various Model Boats site and found some references to RF interference, no specific solutions though. Also examined some Aero modeling sites as they use powerful brushless motors with ESCs. There is some history of the problem there. Evidently when the mosfets (?) of the ESCs convert DC to AC, RF interference is generated. it can often be addressed by using ferrite rings on the ESC control leads. My latest ESCs actually have ferrite rings, so the problem must have been anticipated. This might account for the latest reduction in squeal and stutter levels. Am at a loss to think of any other modifications, so decided to conduct a water test. Maybe it is a characteristic of brushless motors, but their control response seems “ragged”, not smooth as with a brushed. Anyway, the squeal and stutter seemed reduced yet again, perhaps the water load damped them down. Was able to start exploring both the performance envelope and the viability of the brushed centre shaft motor. First impressions are that on a 2S battery the performance is fine, but it sparkles on 3S. On 3S the stutter and squeal are more pronounced though. intend to do further trials but, unless something unexpected occurs, now plan to use 2S power. The centre brushed motor idea works well, this layout seems a good compromise. Will design a simple switching circuit to ensure the brushless motors can selected separately. This will avoid the inadvertent operation of both brushed and brushless unintentionally as they are on the same control stick. The brushed can then be used for low speed operation. Returning to the problem of squeal and stutter – has anybody else experienced this and how was it resolved?

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

PT 109 upgrade?

Should be three V12 petrol engines for PT109, surely? I always find pseudo sound to be most unconvincing. I like a bit of genuine racket in a model! My Crash Tender has a Taycol Supermarine with a Taycol square peg , now that's NOISE! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Hi Rowen, Interesting snag! Can you send me a wiring diagram please. Sounds like you might be getting some cross of control pulse ripple through the battery wiring. Reminds me of similar problems on naval COMMS systems where we had to fit filters to all the power supplies to prevent cross of sensitive info from 'Secure' to 'Plain' systems via the power leads! BTW: All brushless squeal and scream until the the pitch gets beyond human hearing frequency range 😉 Alternative: if you use two 3S LiPos, each of half the capacity of the original, you should get the same endurance with only a small weight penalty. This ain't curing the real problem though 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 7

Hi RNinMunich, Should not be too bad as will cut ply slit/profile from tubes to the transom then reinforce inside under rudder compartment. rest of the tubes length are already supported. I really wanted to make sure the motors and shafts were in excellent alinement, and being able to see through the hull is a good advantage. (note. do not have facilities to make alignment tools). In previous models I have left it towards the end of the build to fix motors s and have found alinement to be a bit difficult, especially on smaller boats.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...

Hia ll, I want to fit a drill motor to the Chris-Craft (basically a modified Aerokits Sea Hornet). I want a quick fit, to use with my existing ESCs. I can get a motor for a fiver. I have a shaft, can make s, but what size prop would you suggest for such a motor and boat? I want to stay within around 20 Amps for the ESC's sake. I ask only that the boat lifts a bit. Most woodies were not actually that quick, they just looked it. Thanks for any advice. I can make almost anything, but have little or no experience of working models. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Warped wood

Central heating. Death to nice wood. I have had central heating for the first time in my life these last 2 years and my china cabinet, which my Grandad made in the late 1920s has a crack you can pass a match through in the bow top. Grandad would be furious! But I've cut a diagonal in pear and forced it in under the smaller roof and that's sorted that one and the larger roof is already repaired in three corners with the fourth tomorrow. Already getting the slight droop out of the bigger one and glued with epoxy. I was delighted to find the square connector of the Taycol still there along with the original Mersey Marine bow fender. Also the speed controller of my Proxxon drill, which went home very soon after I got the drill, so I ripped it out and wired straight through, so it's been flat out ever since! I wouldn't be without it though! I shall be pressing my epoxy into use to coat the ply both sides, using an old credit card to press it into the grain. Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Controls problem

Thank you for your replies! Low battery is not impossible; but it powers the motors fine direct, receiver lights come on, ESC lights come on, and the phone connects to the receiver fine via WiFi, so I assume it's OK. Peter - I will pop along to Bury, probably today, as it's a lovely Sunday morning. Thank you. RNinMunich - I don't have a compatible TX but will look into that at some point. I did consider the 1:350 version, but read that the dies were very old now, and that the Academy 1:400 was more recent and far more accurate. I'll show some pictures of the hull layout later. it was quite a struggle, and I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep it balanced, with a heavy water pump towards the front to make it go 'down by the bow' (but not sink). Yes, quite ambitious. The hardest part was that the two outer props are incredibly close to the hull, so that only very small motors will fit. I didn't want to go for any sort of flexible as I thought that would lose too much power, and larger motors probably wouldn't fit anyway. I don't really mind if it's slow and hard to manoevre, as that would be realistic. if it doesn't work I may rip the motors out and just pit one big one in the middle and steer by rudder.

6 years ago by malcolmstroud

Forum

It's a sad day!.

Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol . That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Sea Queen prop shaft

Am about to fit a Raboesch 5mm prop shaft in a Sea Queen, and beacause of length am looking at fitting two Radio Active HD s. One will be 5 to 5 mm and the second 5 to 6 mm (the motor). Any one done this ? Any problems ?

6 years ago by AndyG009

Forum

Sea Queen prop shaft

Based on what has been said, what I have done is order a length of 5 mm SS longer than required. Only problem that I have is that there appears to be (based on a 300 mm length) is that the SS and the Raboesch bearings are supposed to be 5 mm diameter, but either the bearing is less than 5 mm or the steel is greater than 5 mm. So the SS will likely need reducing slightly (very slightly) in diameter, and once cut to length a M5 tread on the prop end. This will mean that there would not be two s. Will let people know how it goes once SS arrives and it gets 'modified'.......

6 years ago by AndyG009

Forum

Sea Queen prop shaft

Heartily agree Rex 👍 Two such s in series is a guarantee for misalignment and high vibration potential 🤔 which wouldn't do the 'posh' bearings much good! 😡 I would move the motor. Bon chance, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Sea Queen prop shaft

What is the KV of your motor and how many volts do you intend to use? The theory is that this is how it should be done and in practice I Have done this setup with Huco type s which turned over very smoothly but they could not handle the high revs ie14.000 The Radio Active s are first class but again I have experienced some balance issues and vibration with them. I worry slightly that the length of 2 s together is somewhat long but I may be totally wrong. All you can do is to try it I shall follow with interest

6 years ago by Rex3644

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

not used the plank benders before richard i have made my own plank steamer to soften the planks for bending using a wallpaper stripper with a length of copper pipe fixed to the end to place the planks in works a treat 😎 may i remind you richard i noticed there is no strengthener on the joint below where the motor s is, i know it goes below the planking line but you could still place a strengthener above the planking line in side the hull

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MouldBuilder I use solid joints for motor to shaft , but, Banggood have metal universal joints which come in different hole sizes. Canbus

6 years ago by canabus

Media

PT 109

PT 109 was one of the hundreds of motor torpedo boats (PT) of the PT 103 class completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco Naval Division of Electric Boat Company at Bayonne, New Jersey. The Elco boats were the largest in size of the three types of PT boats built for U.S. use during World War II. Wooden-hulled, 80 feet long with a 20-foot, 8-inch beam, the Elco PT boats had three 12-cylinder Packard gasoline engines generating a total of 4,500 horsepower for a designed speed of 41 knots. With accommodations for 3 officers and 14 men, the crew varied from 12 to 14. its full-load displacement was 56 tons. Early Elco boats had two 20mm guns, four .50-caliber machine guns, and two or four 21-inch torpedo tubes. Some of them carried depth charges or mine racks. Later boats mounted one 40mm gun and four torpedo launching racks. Many boats received ad-hoc refits at advanced bases, mounting such light guns as Army Air Forces 37mm aircraft guns and even Japanese 23mm guns. Some PTs later received rocket launchers. This Proboat PT 109 model was brought in 2013 for £100 these boats are rare now, This one had a few faults with the propshafts they were bent and noisy both were replaced, with quality 4mm shafts, motors twin 600s were also replaced by Graupner versions along with mounts and s, basically all the running gear, also two ESCs by Aquapower were added and a 2.4G RC system.

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

Up Grade NDQ speed boat

This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet. The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about £25 each from Amazon. These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead. I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors. The second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors. The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same s and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder. The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less Specifications: KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV RPM: 50000 Max Current: 42A The boats ran well but trimming needs attention, as hull is curved up at the back so trim tabs down, to prevent proposing, in-fact at one stage the boat left the water, but need to distribute weight towards the bow. Tried on 3S (11.1v) for brushless went well but got slightly hot after 10 mins. 7.4v for brushed also got slightly hot after 10 mins., and went nearly as well as the brushless. Surprised!!

6 years ago by CB90

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(Pleasure Craft) Billings Sea King

Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new s. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props. (Motor: 2 x Como Drill) (ESC: Chinese 320a Fan cooled) (8/10)

6 years ago by AllenA

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

hi all, i have a problem with my prop shaft, every time i start the Hobbyking Brushless 3660SL (3180 KV ) the prop shaft comes adrift from the boat hull. it's powered by a 14.7V Poly Lipo battery. is it too powerful for an Aeronault Queen 36"? or is the prop shaft vibrating because of out of balance propellor or the ? i have used Heavy Duty Araldite to glue the prop shaft on to the boat. it has come adrift 2 times now. Thanks for any help i may receive - Graham

6 years ago by Traiderman

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Hi, i have searched for a 500 watt 500kv motor and just can't find any, what company do you use for motors? at last i think i found a suitable Motor, i hope, it's a keda 36-42m 500 watt 950 kv, with a 5mm shaft and fits my new 5mm to 5mm , so don't need any other parts for the power train! will need to change the hole to hole distance to fit the 16mm spacing of the new motor.Then gluing the new 5mm Shaft in, i think thats a good setup. The new 500 watt motor should have a long running time i guess on 10000 mah Lipo's? Anyway thanks again for helping me, very much appreciated! Graham

6 years ago by Traiderman

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Great bit of information , Many thanks pmdevlin. I have only ever used 5mm shaft's and gone out with a variation of small to medium nylon prop's and played on the pond bank with them until I got one suitable. Then I would go for a cast alloy or bronze to that size. But this has been on IC engines, up until about 3 years ago. I have used the same way on brushless since. I have seen others using thinner 4 mm shafts and having problems. I have also always used a prop shaft support under the boat and if I have any type of gap between the and where the shaft goes through the hull I would always add a wedge of wood epoxied in. Once again no backlash on the shaft to make it come loose. The only time I have damaged shafts has been through sheer stupidity racing round a pond with others and misjudging the distance and the bank jumps out and collides with the boat. Whoops broadsides with a nice hard concrete bank and, Yep new shaft needed. But as you say the throttle stick will take you from as slow as you want to flat out. Except when it's IC slow isn't always possible if you do not have a clutch fitted.

6 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Graham, I have attached the same table that Doug sent me. This has the relevant information you seek. According to the table attached the Graupner 500 kV ECO has a specified output of 1440 watts and 80Amps. Strangely the 400 kV ECO has a specified output of 2010 Watts. So the 1440Watt output is questionable and may be a typo based on the other entries in the table. more likely to be 2440Watts In any case you need a 5mm diameter propeller shaft. For shaft alignment i use a brass tube that slides snugly on the propeller shaft and then on the motor shaft. When the tube rotates/slides well on both then the shafts are aligned. I then fit the motor mounts, check and tweak the alignment if necessary, remove the tube and replace with a universal . if the motor or propeller shafts are a different diameter then I insert the relevant size smaller tube inside the larger of the tubes. This method is simple and has served me well, including for larger IC engine powered boats belonging to friends. Haig

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Hi Graham Now we can see the actual prop shaft and motor it is clear that the shaft is not supported inside the hull close to the . At the high revs your motor achieves I am not surprised you have had problems. I do agree with all the comments and help you have been offered and agree a 5mm shaft would help as well as a different motor. I use 3 blade brass props with brushless and have no problems but do keep the prop size to a diameter no greater than the motor diameter, as Mark advises. It's difficult to see how much space is in the hull to allow the motor and shaft to be closer, but if you are replacing the shaft it may be a good time to reposition the motor and the shaft with the prop attached to a slightly different angle. This will mean opening the slot and perhaps enlarging the outside skeg but you can easily repair any damage with plastic padding to make good. Even if you keep the existing arrangement I suggest you provide support for the prop shaft close to the bearing as I suspect this is where you have experienced the problem with the vibration. A simple 2" block of wood attached to the keel and shaft would suffice. Model looks very good and I look forward to seeing some on water shots.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Hi Mark, i have a 4mm shaft fitted and the boat was out of the water at the time, it happened when i just touched the throttle! i thinking maybe a 5mm shaft would be good (less whipping)with a racing propeller and a 1100kv motor with a rubber heavy duty , i think that would be a good setup and will be suitable for a 3ft boat. i think the brass propeller is just not built for high revs, or was it a 1 off badly made propeller? anyway would that setup be good? thanks Graham

6 years ago by Traiderman

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

hi Richard, Thanks for the info, i have decided to remove the Prop and check it for straitness, before i start again with rebuilding using a heavy duty and a slower motor, as i think the existing motor is just too fast at 47000 rpm for the propshaft and and if the propellor is slightly out of balance then the prop will come off again! Thank you Richard and all other contributors that have helped! Graham

6 years ago by Traiderman

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the and fitment of your prop shaft. it could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and . There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted

6 years ago by Dave M

Response

Al KHUBAR 2

Yes but the centre part of back deck on the Al Khubar is removable so you can get to the rudders and motor s. The instructions suggest a close fitting sheet of plasticard will suffice. Didn't for me as the deck get very wet even in calm waters. Hope you have better luck than me.

6 years ago by Dave M

Response

Skiff update

Hi Granpa, There are 3 dealers in Canada (see first pic). Aero-naut has 7 model outboards. The pics show the 2 smallest, with part numbers. Please note: They are sold without props or motors but with for 4mm shafts. Here you can see the specs / dimensions of all variants http://www.aero-naut.de/produkte/schiffsmodellbau/schiffsantriebe/ The 'Retro' versions on this page come complete with in-runner motor and water cooling. The Aqua Race mini complete with motor and prop is probably the one for your skiff! Happy hunting, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Prop Shaft Grease

Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊

6 years ago by boaty

Forum

Sea Queen Prop shaft

Hi AndyG Not sure what type of was supplied but I use a common Universal on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the in front of the motor.

7 years ago by Dave M