Blog

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works

Just a small introduction, I am a retired er, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in ering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an ering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Hello: My Hobby Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Blog

Command Boat 90

Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one er); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/ Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

6 years ago by CB90

Directory

Chris Craft Catalina 8'

8' long......I saw this boat online about 8-10 years ago from an estate of an elderly man who was amazingly talented and built this Chris Craft Catalina. Note the fellows finger pointing at her .He was 93 years old and left us in 2009. His name was Tony and he started in 1958 was competed about 1959. He made all the metal work , running gear. Exact scale model, All brightwork hand made and plated, working doors, sliding windows, All lights work, Evinrude 3HP outboard powerhead customized to fit in the boat, custom made twin counter rotating gear box, dual wet exhaust, full trailer to haul it around. All of the trim around the cabin and the rub rail is polished stainless and screwed on to the boat. The gauges can be read...Clearly. You reach in the side window and pull a lever to release the cabin. The blinds even work and were scratchbuilt. Redcraft in CA made all the brightwork and converted the . But the story goes that the two of these guys just decided to build the ultimate model boat. It won every contest ever entered. It was disqualified once for not having a scale powerplant.....So they made a working scale chris craft V-8 for it OMG! Red said that the owners son still had the V-8. Chris Craft themselves offered a huge amount of money for the boat at one time but the builder turned them down. Red has the letter from them that has the offer. All this info was from 2009.

5 years ago by Brightwork

Forum

Chris Craft Catalina 8'

8' long......I saw this boat online about 8-10 years ago from an estate of an elderly man who was amazingly talented and built this Chris Craft Catalina. Note the fellows finger pointing at her .He was 93 years old and left us in 2009. His name was Tony and he started in 1958 was competed about 1959. He made all the metal work , running gear. Exact scale model, All brightwork hand made and plated, working doors, sliding windows, All lights work, Evinrude 3HP outboard powerhead customized to fit in the boat, custom made twin counter rotating gear box, dual wet exhaust, full trailer to haul it around.All of the trim around the cabin and the rub rail is polished stainless and screwed on to the boat. The gauges can be read...Clearly. You reach in the side window and pull a lever to release the cabin. The blinds even work and were scratchbuilt. Redcraft in CA made all the brightwork and converted the . But the story goes that the two of these guys just decided to build the ultimate model boat. It won every contest ever entered. It was disqualified once for not having a scale powerplant.....So they made a working scale chris craft V-8 for it OMG! Red said that the owners son still had the V-8. Chris Craft themselves offered a huge amount of money for the boat at one time but the builder turned them down. Red has the letter from them that has the offer. All this info was from 2009.

5 years ago by Brightwork

Response

Re: Carla (Neptune)

Hi Boatshed, I assume it's the Krick Pan 21. (Only outboard they have apparently!) https://www.krickshop.de/Accessories-Spare-Parts/Accessories-for-Ship-Models/Bow-Thrusters-Schottel-Gears-Jet-Gears/Outboard--Pan-21-3S.htm?shop=krick_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=26316&p=15937 I've checked the downloads, German only I'm afraid.🤔 You might find this translator useful- https://www.translator.eu/german/english/translation/ It gets a bit stuck on the model jargon but the rest is pretty good. I've attached the pdf German manual for easy copying of sections into the translator. If you get lost Mail me. Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Kirklees MBC open day 2019

I often think about doing that sort of thing again. I stuck a 2.8 granada into a mk1 2 door cortina gt. Went like stink but lousy brakes, had to drop the gears to slow down at motorway speed. Or my Thames 15cwt van. I put a 2557cc zodiac and a 4 speed box in, which then I added a set of jaguar brakes from my wrecked mk2. Now that was a fun drive, often got her on 2 wheels, so to keep Caroline happy I layed 2inch thick slabs in the back and covered with carpet. It handled really well then. Kept it for 6 months then my dad offered me his 220d Mercedes in straight swop. He wanted to use it as a mobile workshop for his ering business. I started to like foreign cars after that. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z7

Thanks Colin. I was lucky with the colour and that they had a sale on today (normally $24 / m ) so I bought .5 m for $7 . It's a bit course, but beggars can't be choosers. Bit hard to work with full sized cloth (scale would be more like silk I think) and the edges aren't that neat (had to stiffen the cloth with dope to make it cut reasonably well as it was a bit soft. Was a mission to fit the 'plug' around the boxes etc but it will keep most of the rain out😁 (would be about 98% waterproof and is reasonably close to the original. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Event

Earls Barton Transport Show

this s a great transport show with everything from traction s through grey Fergersons, trucks buses etc. Plus NDMBC Our home waters are on the Show site, so we have three days of great sailing on our own ground. Al set up for tomorrow, check our Facebook page

5 years ago by ikseno99

Response

Re: HELP needed on a hull.

Thames Barge only came to Devon on very few occasions if they ever did. Might build one day. But in to steam at present. Three paddle steamers, & traction .

5 years ago by hammer

Forum

Batteries in a DX5e

And charge twice as much! Whilst the airframe kit is complete and very inexpensive, the ready packed power packs are NOT cheap. I can get all the bits in there for half the Graupnerised price. If Graupner want to reach a wider public they need to ensure that the kits are available, which they most certainly are not. I was after the Cub, but out of stock, hence the parasol winged Pietenpol. It was a home build aircraft, Doug with, amazingly, a Ford model A and a stand up radiator that must have made forward vision a nightmare! But, I'm sure this is enough about airyplanes on a model boat forum. Martin

5 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Back for Summer

The one which became the Hillman Imp , the FWMA, Feather Weight Marine Automobile. NOT a damned fire pump, whatever drivvle you may read about them. So, as odds and sods progress, I will post pics and chat about them. BTW, the aforementioned Mike Parkes was the er responsible for helping Hillman make the FWMA into the Hillman Imp as well as being a very decent racing driver! Martin - One of our local race drivers in the 70's Reuben Israel tried stuffing a Lotus Cortina motor into a Hillman Imp - nearly frightened himself to death in it - cornered worse than a Sunbeam Tiger / Triumph Spitfire. Spitfire tried chasing my FJ d MG Midget - watched his lights revolving in the RV mirror in a 40 degree corner . Somersaulted well - lucky he had a roll bar fitted . The fellow Mike Parkes you were talking about - was it he that had a very succesful racing career with the Imp or someone else?

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

Back for Summer

That would be up to the client, Doug. I think he is suing for costs and so he should. Incompetent bastards! I think I'd sooner play The Doors. Didn't he sing about getting his mojo working? Just finished a stretched Ferrari 312 (Parkes) body pattern, a Jebro Mk1 H Mod and an HO (small slot cars are actually 1/64th, but they annoyingly call it HO) McLaren M1B. Matra MS 80 next! Car brake light keeps flickering on the dashboard, so more expense. That's what these things pay for! We had to get something Chris could more easily get in and out of so we chopped in the Peugeot 206CC for a Suzuki Swift VVT. 4 doors, 4 seats and space for my models, be they yachts or aircraft. I really must try to get some stuff done on the Chris Craft (Sea Hornet), Darby One Design and Spitfire Outboard racer. I treated myself to an inrunner brushless for the lovely HobbyKing CNC machined o/b, which I've turned into a Godiva 40, instead of a Mercury. Well, I am an old tub thumper and a complete Coventry Climax obsessive and the Godiva 40 had a CC on its end. The one which became the Hillman Imp , the FWMA, Feather Weight Marine Automobile. NOT a damned fire pump, whatever drivvle you may read about them. So, as odds and sods progress, I will post pics and chat about them. BTW, the aforementioned Mike Parkes was the er responsible for helping Hillman make the FWMA into the Hillman Imp as well as being a very decent racing driver! Cheers, Martin

5 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Motor identification.

Oh dear - they look like some Johnson can motors. Johnson is a company which specialises in industrial DC motors for power tools, car windows, etc. It does a bewildering variety of them - as do many other companies, but I tend to think of them as generically 'Johnson'. See https://www.johnsonelectric.com/en/product-technology/motion/dc-motors/automotive-dc-motors/low-voltage-dc-motors They are often hard to identify, and will be good for the thing they are designed for, which may be nothing like a model boat . In particular they may be designed for intermittent use, low or high torque, high drain...or anything else. They may be good for a boat - they may be useless. And it depends on the boat - if they are ex-drill motors they may rev quite fast... Check the number of poles - more than three and the motor may be a better quality one. Do the revs on your battery match what you want (between 5000 and 10,000, usually)? Is the no-load drain below 1A? Then the motor might be useful. Otherwise, see the video below: https://youtu.be/pNw0IWrn0hU I recall that Mayhem were very scathing of unknown can motors a little while ago - spool down to the bottom of this page https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/How%20Fast.htm P.S - does the one on the left look like a turntable motor?

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

48inch Fairey Huntsman

sorry no I have not, 40 years ago I had a 48 inch Huntsman with a 25cc Fox petrol to power it have returned to the hobby after my wife passed away and have not a clue about brushless motors that is why I am asking for a recomendation for a brushless motor unless of course somebody can tell me where I can procure a 25cc Fox (the importers used to be in Brighton) Regards Little Charlie

5 years ago by Little-Charlie

Response

Servo Mount

Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day its personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy ering, wait while you see the mast!

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Basic hull construction completed

very nice bit of shaping on the balsa there and filling. I purchased a Perkasa MTB hull off of a boot fair and that part they have done is awful. I have got to sort that out. As far as the motor size goes, I put a 10 cc Irvine in a model boat that should only have had a 7.5cc in it. it went like stink. But even then it would all depend on how you use your throttle control. I would myself still go larger than instructions say but that's because I'm a speed freak. Flat out on the straight and test to the extreme on turn's. Turned a couple upside down as well and still was able to carry on running once recovered. I always take a telescopic fishing rod with me with a weight and floating line for recovery.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Servo Mount

Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo?, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day it's personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy ering, wait while you see the mast!

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter

Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom

5 years ago by tomarack

Forum

Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50

yes, drawings are much easier to work with as opposed to cad they are not formal ering drawings in the traditional sense but more like a" Kiel Kraft plans" type shorthand showing all the bits on one page.

5 years ago by mactin

Blog

Deck Parts

good weekend Made up, painted and planked up the cover and the 2 funnel stands. Funnel stands need to have the Cowl vents, funnels, hatches and tow mounts fitted to them. Need top make up, create, paint all of those first of course😁 also looking at a steam generator to go into the front Funnel so a hole will be drilled into the mount for that as well

5 years ago by barryskeates

Media

Mowe 2

I hadn't built a model of any sort since I was 15 years old and that was a control line aeroplane with a glow worm . 45 years later and regressing nicely back to my teenage years, my wife bought me (reluctantly!) a RC Boat Kit - Mowe 2. I had been wanting to build again for many years, but children and family and home situation did not allow. So, over the cold Autumn and Winter Months I carefully put my spare nights to good use, rather than watching night after night TV box sets and re-watching the entire James Bond movies, not once but 2 or 3 times.... Anyhow after 3 months...the finished product. I should have started a blog but didn't know of this site until a few weeks ago. Not a brilliant finished job, but a satisfying one, and it sails nicely on Bushy Park boating lake in Kingston-upon-Thames. Now o nto bigger and more complicated things...a Fairey Huntsman 31. This time I'll do a blog....👍

5 years ago by StuartE

Forum

soldering

If your using an electric soldering iron avoid " active" fluxes if your willing to use a flame then good old fashioned " killed spirits" is as fine a flux as your going to find for soft soldering. Thinking about things if your using an IC and your making a prop shroud then please consider hard ( silver ) solder. Just think about the effect of a failed joint and a rapidly spinning prop. if your joining tubes at app 90 degrees think about drilling the tube your going to join to and fitting a spigot to solder the joining tube to. Making a good mechanical joint is an almost essential requirement for a sound long lasting soldered joint.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Blog

Deck and Funnels

Going for a removable deck (bold on so to speak) so most of deck cutout and generally marked up for cover, wheel house platform as well as where the funnels will go. also dry fitted the Funnels to the main funnel mounts to see what we have and ensure it all fits together

5 years ago by barryskeates

Response

The motor cover.

Could you have fitted a small computer fan inside the compartment to cool the motor and put another grill on the end of the cover for the fan to remove the heat from? if this makes sense to you, I know what I mean but unsure if you would understand what I mean.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Being Sociable.

As the Thread title is Being Sociable and believe me I am on a good day, I have a suggestion to make if you are interested. As you are in the Leeds area and I am only say ninety minutes drive away, would you care to pay me a social call? I would like to help you get started in your S***m quest, I have a few s here which are new or home-made and not used, and I am willing to part with one of them for free. This could be the Answer to Question 1 Cost. Let me know if you are interested. Regards, GARY.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

Being Sociable.

Gary many thanks for your response, firstly may I congratulate you on your models, they are really to be admired. I have yet to check out your web suggestions but I am keen to look and hopefully find something of interest. I will share with you my only dealing with steam, As a boy of 13yrs I transformed a Mamod static (SE1) to fit in a 36" yacht hull, needless to say it wasn't a pretty sight but it did work, in a fashion. All the best Michael

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

Being Sociable.

Just thought I would add this as an after-thought. Concentrate your search on China as that is definitely where the bargains are. The biggest problem with this is they expect you to buy in bulk as a dealer, and the minimum purchase seems to be TEN pieces, do you have nine like-minded friends who need s. the thought has crossed my mind about buying ten and putting say eight of them on eBay. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

Being Sociable.

To Michael, as I can't really ignore your question although that does not apply to all comments, I am hoping this information helps you to find what you are looking for, and gets you involved with boiled water vapour. Just a little apprehensive about using that word now, (S***m.) Google: Paddleducks, then click on Links, then click on S***m s. you will hopefully be pleasantly surprised and that is only half of it. Check out USE an oscillating single acting assembled and machined at £38.00, you would need to couple two together to make it self starting. Boilers, more expensive than s, your best bet would be, buy it in kit form and find a good gas welder to put it together for you, a DIY type gas torch won't do it, and it requires silver soldering and an awful lot of heat. Hoping this helps. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Media

USS Chesty B Puller

USS Chesty B Puller, I was a marine, 63 inches long, prebuilt by Aquacraft, s installed, but no radio, batteries or speed control. Looks great in water. preforms like a real one, especially in still water, but we don't have much of that in Kansas.

5 years ago by blackheart

Forum

Being Sociable.

Hallo Gary, Your curious response to my post prompted me to look back at your history. In your very first post on the site four years ago I ran across this about a tug project of yours - "My reason for trying to build this particular kit in the first place, is it is 39 inches in length with a beam of 10 inches, with a one piece large superstructure making it ideal for a steam ." All very fine but it underlines the snag many of us have, especially naval modellers with 10to1 LoA / Beam ratio, that we simply don't have the beam and superstructure height necessary for steam power plants. Regards, Doug.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Being Sociable.

My Dear Gary, If you wish to start a Steamer thread then why not title it as such? In no way did I wish to be AntiSocial. I simply responded to your somewhat provocative question, which I quoted in my previous post, as did several others on the site in similar vein. Whilst I admire those who can build steam s, and I have done that on this site, I simply listed in my response to your (perhaps rhetorical question?) the obstacles that most modellers are faced with when it comes to steam power in models. Perhaps I should have added number 7. - For most of us the SHIP is the main objective and not the power plant which in the vast majority of cases is hidden under deck. If steam is your THING - GREAT I have no problem with that. More power to your boiler 😊 It just won't work in my ships and boats. Esp. my subs 😉 And I don't have the patience for all the faffing about necessary to get going at the lake - one of my six points mentioned above. And I suspect that goes for many other contributors to this site. My post simply consolidated several similar responses from other members. You write; "I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share ..." I would be MOST interested to read your refuting of ALL my six points if you have some valid arguments. Throughout my professional ering life I have always been open to alternative ideas and solutions. So prove me wrong and uncross my wires please. I look forward to your point by point refutation. BTW; as an experienced electronics er I always carefully double check my circuits before applying power - so crossed wires are not normally a problem with me. Similar principle also applies to my considered response to your posts. Regards, Doug 😎 PS: did you build your steam s or buy them? There are some guys on this site whom I admire very much, but can not emulate, who build their own. PPS: Quote "In the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat." Fine, if that's your THING, does come across as a little fanatical though.🤔

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

Tug Brooklyn!

Tug Brooklyn Steam Sound along with Steam Whistle Sound! Sorry about the shaky camera. Trying to do too much at one time!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Hi Pete, Feel better that's for sure! Maybe after that you'll be able to. Do some work on your tug! Pete, It looks as if you would. Put the smoke liquid down part "A"! Pete, Your going to have to find that plug! But, I believe where the plug goes. That's where you put the smoking Liquid! Don't you have the instructions to the model? Maybe you can get in contact. With Hobby see if they'll send you a copy! Regards, Ed The smoker bottle come with a dropper. I would just put one or two dropper. Full of liquid see if that works! Pete, When you call Nick at Harbor Models. Tell him Ed from Connecticut sent you!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Shroud for Model Air Boat

Hello, CPO: I agree with Joe727. I’d use a high quality two-part epoxy for sure & maybe some sort of small fasteners, too, if there’s room for them. When I was about eight years old my father had a real air boat named “Banshee”. She was painted bright red & was an absolute blast to ride in, although I remember being more than slightly terrified on a few occasions. Dad modified her four-cylinder airplane to the point that she’d easily get close to 60 knots. Dad only opened her up that much in summer in late afternoon or early evening when there wasn’t much wind. Believe me, calm air or not, at 55 to 60 knots when the boat virtually goes airborne it’s white-knuckle terrifying, especially when sitting in a “bar stool” high above the water!

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Shroud for Model Air Boat

Good Morning Chief Petty Officer. Glad to hear of some enquiry about air boats. I built a few of these in the mid to late 1960s and they were great fun. I powered them with s like the Cox Babe Bee up to a Frog 150R diesel. All were free running of course and it was either a keep fit excercise to try and catch them before they hit the bank across the lake or in most cases there was always a good person ready to perform the "save".. Due to political correctness and the environment. the I.C powered versions are consigned to history . Them days we didnt have shrouds over the airscrews. Best method of securing a shroud is to use ZAP Z-Poxy Resin. it is durable, water resistant and can be bought from good model shops and is a two pack. One bottle contains the resin and the other the hardner. its a 50/50 mix and you can purchase a range of them with various setting times. 😎Boaty

5 years ago by boaty

Forum

Being Sociable.

"Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam . When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam ." 1. Cost. 2. Space available in the model. 3. Complexity of the and difficulty of control. 4. Fire risk, and not just to the model.😲 5. Shorter run times, longer 'steam up' times. 6. Unsuitabilty for many types of ships / boats. I.e. originals weren't steamers. If I read above posts correctly I thought you had already found at least two kindred spirits here. I'm sure that if you take the time to cull throught the hundreds Build Blogs and technical Posts here you will find others. Try using the Search function. See the panel on the left of the Home page. Good luck,😎 BTW: Nobody likes a fanatic! Don't get steamed up 😁

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Being Sociable.

I would have loved to put a steam plant in Tug Brooklyn. But, one is cost the other would be. The Brooklyn is all Plastic! Now really have you looked at the prices! Talk about sticker shock! And for that reason. I use electric motors! But for those fortunate to be able to get steam s. Enjoy!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Media

Tug Brooklyn

Tug Brooklyn Steam Sound Generator Test! With her Running Lights on! I couldn't use her Steam Whistle!😤 I only had one 9 volt battery!😭 Anyway here goes nothing!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Ram48 Sound Generator - Cont!

Captain's Log: Today I installed the RAM48! It works OK for a Sound Generator! Take a look at the Video Gallery. For a Test of the Steam Sound Generator! Or take a look here! https://youtu.be/LHcmt44yMvI

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Painting

I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision er, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Being Sociable.

I really can't believe that considering all the members that use this website, that no one is interested in steam s and what steam has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam . When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam . in the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. if anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for steam, kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Blog

RAM48 Sound Generator!

Captain's Log: Tug Brooklyn is a 1910 Steam Tug. So, Why not have it sound like a Steam Tugboat! I ordered the RAM48 Steam sound generator. All I have to do is install it! The RAM48 doesn't go connected to the motor. Like other RAM sound Generators! The RAM48 uses a Magnet that is glued to the shaft! Or in my case the universal coupler! I didn't think it was right to glue the magnet to the shaft. What if the shaft has to be taken out for maintenance! Anyway the RAM48 works with a magnet and sensor chip! To make the Chuff and Hiss sound! OK, after you let the magnet dry over night! You then have to carefully. Place the sensor chip about 1/8". Away from the magnet! Since Tug Brooklyn is made of Plastic. I can use a scrap piece of Plastic. To hold the sensor chip in place! Well, that's it for now. I'll update this post. As I work on setting up the sensor chip connection!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Directory

(Other) Lady Ayla and Elena.

Clinker built open launches built to show off the boiler, steam and complex plumbing. (Motor: The Caton piston valve) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Directory

(Other) Lady Marian

This Drifter was a Marvon Models Kit and was incredible value for the money, a double planked plank on frame hull, and detailed instructions and good quality timber and fittings. As the was a four-stroke and silenced, plus the fact it was ticking over at very few revs, it made less noise than your average electric motor. Plus we were not trying too hard to save the planet in those good old days. (Motor: OS. 6.5cc Marine 4 stroke.) (ESC: servo controlled) (10/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Directory

(Tug Boat) Anteo Harbour Tug

My first ever Tug about fifty years ago, and my very first steam hence the super-structure looks a little hacked about, especially the housing with globe valves stuck out here and there. this was and still is an amazing kit from Panart, a plank on frame double skinned hull, and all the fittings were brass to a very high quality, (note the anchor winch all brass and it works. The and boiler was from Maxwell Hemmings one of the very few manufacturers at the time. (Motor: Piston Valve Twin Cylinder) (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

tvr steam

Hi Gary my e-mail is rgroff7@cogeco.ca you can e-mail me and we can figure out . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

tvr steam

Hello all and to Gary I' m looking for the tread size for the ports of the TVR steam are they 1/4 32 or 1/4 40 as I want to order fittings in advance of my building the . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

tvr steam

Hi Rick I am having a few problems here trying to manipulate this website, I have read your message asking about an flywheel, and I will make one for you as I have the necessary diameter brass bar. your problem is figuring out how I get it to you, let me know how we can accomplish this problem. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

tvr steam

Inspiration, a beautiful thing almost a work of art.

5 years ago by GaryLC