Response

Ajustment...

Ah, where's the video! Call this weight test. And the next time you go don't forget the phone!😲

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future s! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. if all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. if it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Telephone mast

Hi Ken I do believe they use a higher frequency but if they are very close you may experience some interesting s. As they are all digital the signal should be rejected from the bound rx as the code will be incorrect. Hopefully the high power will all be to the top of masts so your models won't be affected. Please keep us posted. You could contact the installer and ask the question, or perhaps the council can ask? Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Response

Aeronaut Pilot

Great build video Skipper44. Great music too but you are far too young to play the Floyd. Looking forward to next .

7 years ago by AllenA

Blog

Fitting the wheelhouse roof panels

The three panels make up the wheelhouse roof and the outer two needed the heat gun treatment to curve them in two directions so a bit of patience is required here to get this right. When they are correctly shaped the mating edges of all three need a little chamfering, they also need to overlap the cabin walls by 1/8th of an inch. I cut out a hole in the centre panel to give me access to the bracket that hold the searchlight rotation servo in place. Before fitting the roof panels I added a couple of small blocks either side of the cabin formers directly beneath where the mast feet will be to reinforce the areas so that I can bolt down the mast legs on threaded studs and also to enable it's removal for storage if required. Once again I used a file and sanding block over the formers and cabin sides to profile them so that the panels sit flush on the framework. The outer panel on which the searchlight sits was also pierced to take the 2mm threaded stud will connects the servo to the searchlight base. I'll need to make and fit a circular wedge fillet on the roof to meet the searchlight base because of the curvature of the roof at that point. The undersides of the panels got a couple of coats of sanding sealer and a brushed coat of a black satin water based paint, being careful not to coat the areas where the glue lines will be. The rest of the interior of the cabin also got another coat of black paint. The centre panel was fitted first making sure that the hole was correctly aligned with the servo shaft position, when the glue had dried the two outer panels were glued and clamped. I fitted the sliding hatch rails on a couple of bearers and made a frame around the access hole for the hatch to fit onto. The other small hole at the front of the centre panel is for the navigation light wiring. Thankfully that's the end of the superstructure construction which was unnecessarily difficult due to the less than helpful instructions and drawings and poorly fitting parts. Some room for improvement here by the kit maker I think ❓ ..... Next coming to screen near you soon.... 😁

7 years ago by robbob

Response

Fitting the windscreen panels.

Thanks Robbob, I'm looking forward to your next ...... Its better than any television series.

8 years ago by allenrod

Forum

Westbourne Model Centre

Heard an article regarding Westbourne Models on today's Radio 4 You and Yours. The guy from Westbourne didn't fill me with any confidence regarding doing any business with them. You should be able to hear the on BBC Iplayer.

8 years ago by Dave_P

Response

Aerokits 46'' Fireboat twin screw brushless conversion

Did you get a knitting pattern for all that wire? Keep going can,t wait for the next ....bit like Saturday flicks when I was a kid.. Roger

11 years ago by shavings

Blog

2 steps forward...

Thought I might be doing some gentle turns around the pond by start of March but didn't get further than the bath! The job was going well, a new frame for the aft end and a cover/deck to sit on it, a frame and tray for the electronics to sit on. The water pick-up for the jacket on the diesel engine now runs water around in a loop and out the back of the boat without actually doing anything but I thought it might look a bit more interesting to retain it. All electronics mounted and working, batteries in situ alongside the motor. Bit of a bother with the receiver/ESC/servo connections in so far as the instructions that came with the (cheap) 2CH 2.4Ghz set gave no real clue as to what went where. There were 4 sockets, marked /- then Ch1,2 and 3(?). The instructions showed the ESC on Ch1 and the servo on 2. The leads from the ESC and servo have no key/spline to ensure they only fit one way around so I crossed fingers and plugged in. Various combinations later, mostly resulting in the throttle lever on the Tx operating the rudder and nothing else, I ended up with the ESC in /- and the servo on Ch1 which seems to work fine. I think I am lucky not to have let the smoke out of the circuits really but being an RC virgin I had no idea of what the set up should have been. I also noticed that the motor runs a higher rpm in reverse, is this an internal ESC resistance thing, the higher rated amps for fwd causing the resistance increase? Haven't checked it with a meter so can't comment on the voltage actually being delivered as yet. Anyway, I put everything in and gave it a spin on the stocks- god, what a row. The motor is quiet enough on its own but with the shaft and UJ in it is awful. I did know the original brass shaft was a bit loose to be honest but hoped to get away with it just for a test run or two but no, it has to go. Most of the noise seemed to be from the UJ though which I thought a bit odd as it has almost no angle to run at. Solutions, replace known problem of shaft and try a different UJ. I didn't fancy getting a 50 year old hull too upset removing the old tube so have gone for a 4mm stainless shaft/tube which will fit inside the old 1/4" ID tube and save disturbances. I don't think the motor will produce enough torque to twist the shaft. This is the next job along with making another motor mount as the thing needs to be in a different place now.But I couldn't resist a quick if noisy test so into the bath just to see what we had- at 7.2V it is moving a fair bit of water with its 35mm 3 blade prop and revs don't drop much under the load so nothing seems to be stressed there but I am sure we could go a bit bigger on the prop and of course when I resolve my battery issues (see below) we will have about 12v anyway. No idea what this all might translate to in terms of forward speed but that doesn't really matter that much anyway. Tune in for the next exiting soon...

11 years ago by fid2b

Blog

rivarama

HI there, all I seem to do lately is rub down, varnish, rub down, varnish, rub down you know what I mean, well 5 coats into it so far and things are beginning to take shape. I am using Le Tonkinois varnish from B. E. Murkin, Maidenhead www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk, excellent service from them and their product is vvgood. it does everything it says on the product, the brush marks vanish after a few minutes, I use a ordinary brush 1.5", and as you can see indoors, it does not smell but the only drawback is it takes 2-3 hours to go off so be careful with dust etc. Just denib between coats so no heavy rubbing down and wait 24 hours. I have done some more to the electrics and have covered all the seats. Thank you Colin for recommending this varnish it is exceptionally good and you have more control over it than epoxy. So there is this weeks can't see much difference for next week as I have a few more coats of varnish to apply!!So speak to you all soon, Brian

11 years ago by sharpy1071