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    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    Hi all I have been asked to renovate a Thames sailing barge, after some research I have discovered that it is this one https://www.modeljetdrives.com/thames-barge.html Does anyone know where or have the build
    manual
    / instructions that they could copy and email for me Thanks Ron
    9 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction
    manual
    , dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to โ€œturnโ€. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    11 days ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    Fist eager steps...easy!
    I opened the box, eager to start and quickly assembled the keel and base deck following the excellent and easy to read instructions and picture
    manual
    s....easy...I'll finish this in a week or two with a following wind and the wife and daughter being away on half term holidays!
    15 days ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Planet T5''Park Fly range''
    Quote from
    manual
    "Note that T5 is not a 'Full range" system..... use only with small Park Flyer.... at relatively short range (around 150 metres)" You have set your ESC to stop when you lose signal? ....
    19 days ago by saga32
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a โ€œpremiumโ€ model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction
    manual
    has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, Iโ€™m working on upgrading the tugโ€™s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being Iโ€™m doing things that donโ€™t require much finesse for fine work. Iโ€™m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tugโ€™s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isnโ€™t a single unit. Thereโ€™s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton โ€œpremiumโ€ model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that itโ€™s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. Iโ€™m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete
    28 days ago by Pete
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Things will be a bit up in the air with the Hobbico bankrupcy. But Horizon Hobby have taken over Futaba distribution - see https://www.futabarc.com/contact.html They advise chasing Futaba USA for anything further - so these people might be the best to ask: https://futabausa.com/contactus/ Don't buy poor photocopies of
    manual
    s at exorbitant prices without checking with the manufacturer first....
    28 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi ya Colin - I had a good look round the web to try and find the instructions
    manual
    for your Futaba FP-T7 UPH and it keeps coming up with the links that I have already posted but there are also one or two links which the firewall wont allow me to open - it says its got virus' on - so I wonder what that one is. I did come across an auction site - not Ebay - that had one for sale with the instructions and if you look at the instructions they are similar/same as the link I have already posted. So, I am wondering are these instructions for the two sets of transmitters - and possibly the one you have is an upgrade. I see on Ebay there is someone in USA who sells
    manual
    s on CD for around ยฃ8 if you desperate. Of all the transmitter
    manual
    s I have looked for this one is an oddball one for finding the
    manual
    . Happy days. John
    29 days ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks John, can't find the one for the 7UHP version though. Have a 7UAP set as well with the
    manual
    , some of function's are different but the set up should be the same. Cheers Colin.
    30 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    John can you please tell us the li k for the
    manual
    download for the FUTABA FP-T7UHP TRANSMITTER. Thanks Colin.
    30 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    I have just spent a couple of mins downloading and reading through the
    manual
    for your transmitter, Colin and I see you have limited mixing similar to the old Futaba 6A models. if it were me (going back to your original question) I would use this transmitter with a new receiver and fit these into your model and use tank steering as in the 4th diagram on that little image I put on of the electrical layouts. Very simple and straightforward. I think its channel 2 on your right hand stick used for rudder.
    1 month ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    You don't need the
    manual
    for this bit. Have you found the lead and plugged it into your computer. If you have then in the file system of your computer you should see another drive listed (will most likely be the name of your camera). Open that drive and look at the list of folder names possibly 'Pictures' or 'DCIM'. When you have found the folder containing your pictures you can go through them and find the ones you want to copy over to your PC. Steve
    1 month ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    Thanks guys. Got
    manual
    but don't understand most of it. I'm Phick
    1 month ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    Frequently the camera has a 'micro USB' connector on it. if you plug a lead into that (should have come with the camera, or buy one on EBay) and connect that to your computer you will probably see an extra drive - which will be the camera, and on this will be your pictures. If you tell us the name/model of the camera, we can easily find the
    manual
    on the web. This will give you all the information you need about loading pictures from it....
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Nav. lights and smoker
    The navigational lights and the smoker still need to be final wired with a power switch for each. The amp draw on the smoker is about 2.2 Amps as measured with my meter, so I intend to use a 2 1/2 Amp Fuse. Will probably just use
    manual
    switch rather than remote just to keep it simple, we will see..... Cheers, Joe Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    "...So how did you get to "SEAKING" instructions from TOPEDGE?..." Via this site - https://
    manual
    sbrain.com/en/search/?utf8=โœ“&brand_id=17847&category_id=2936&q=sco60b which I found by googling a selection of words which were likely to appear in any esc
    manual
    , together with the code designator. I purposely left the word 'Topedge' out, because I know that most of the lesser-known brand names are 'badge engineering', indeed, there is unlikely to be one single factory making the item. if you put in an order for 100 of these items you could have them badged as 'Steve-D' if you liked, and made in half a dozen separate locations with no connection to each other.... Typically, these items were designed in the West by a known brand company, the tooling and designs are shipped over to China where they are replicated, modified somewhat, and then they become 'general property' that any factory can make if it wants. The original code (or fragments of it) is often the only thing that survives....
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Miss Doris
    Jeez!๐Ÿ˜ฒ how big is she she? None of my 4 to 5 foot ships weigh half that! Did you make a welded steel hull or what???? I can see we are going to have to design a derrick so you can lower your ships to the ground to get going ๐Ÿ˜‰ Oh and, I still have a corset ๐Ÿ˜ฒ with a steel plate set into the back, left over from my last back injury. I'll send it you if you want ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ It goes back to dislocating two discs about 30 years ago - (NO you 'orrible lot I WAS NOT diving off the wardrobe onto the bed ..... !!!) On the other hand; the building is more than half the fun! Confucius he say 'It is better to travel hopefully - than to arrive'.๐Ÿ˜‰ Clever guy. Don't suppose he ever had to contend with lousy instructions in a boat kit or Chinglish transmitter
    manual
    s though๐Ÿ˜ All the best Ed and better half, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Westquay It sounds Doug has got it right. I only went over to brushless 3 years ago when I returned to fast electric. All my existing models at the time had brushed motors installed and I did become confused with the "new technology". Having three wires from the motor to the ESC was a bit difficult to comprehend but as the boat was an RTR it was helpful due to having an instruction
    manual
    with it. It just takes time and experience to get use to such changes but it will be right in the end. My only experience of a non starter was back in 1976, this being the only time I had a date with a married woman. I had a Lotus Elan then and there was no room in the back and it would have been a waste of time calling the AA to resolve it.๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜Ž Boaty
    4 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the
    manual
    as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. if you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Videos
    H Martin, sorry it took longer than expected got bogged down in other things๐Ÿค” Sooo! Scouring the docs I could find (see attached PDF files) I was surprised not to find the usual table of Number of photos or video length vs memory available! Anyway two significant statements I did find- 1) "Movie length - up to 29 minutes" When I see 'up to' I read that as with the lowest resolution, in this case 640*480 pixels. Which you can forget; tha's like a 20+ year old PC and worse than the old UHF 605 line TV pictures.๐Ÿค” 2) "Movie resolution -1280x720/ 30fps (HD). Now that's more like it๐Ÿ˜Š BUT: in the
    manual
    I then found- "The option FHD and HD only available when a Micro SDHC class 4 or higher speed class card is inserted." Soooo! get yourself a 32GB (not sure if a 64GB card will work!) memory card SDHC class 4 and awaaaay you go ๐Ÿ‘ BTW the internal memory is only 64MB so you can forget that for video. Seems only to be used for storing user settings (made in the camera menu) and a few photos. I recommend using only the memory card for photos and above all videos. Happy shooting Mr Director, Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: '720p' just means 720 pixels (Picture cells) vertically, using Progressive scan, as opposed to interlaced. Thought you might like to know that ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Don't know if it is still available, but I downloaded the construction
    manual
    for the Graupner Valvdiva, which has a joggled king plank and curved planking which is started on the outer edge of the deck. I haven't tried it yet, but it appears to be a good "how to." Greatest concern for me is bending the planks to the curve of the deck, as they are wider than their thickness.
    4 months ago by Peejay
    Forum
    Videos
    Hi Martin, OK, I've found the
    manual
    and an extended data sheet. Will digest that and get back to you tomorrow. Gotta go and finish making new fence posts now! ๐Ÿ˜ก 'Be prepared', ๐Ÿ˜‰ Doug
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Videos
    Evenin' Martin, Forget the Mbps (Megabits per second), what counts is the resolution of the photos or videos that you take. The higher the resolution (more dots per picture or Frame in the case of video) the more 'dot' information has to be stored = more memory and a faster Mbps rate are needed. Not to mention the number of frames per second, FPS; you film at! Anything over 25FPS fools the eye and the brain into 'seeing' continuous movement. very high frame rates, up to 50FPS, are only needed if you are filming F1 Hydroplane races or similar! Sooooo, higher resolution or frame rate means shorter playing time for a given amount of memory, i.e. your micro card. in the camera menu there will be a point in the Video section where you can select the resolution. HD is best !! Set the camera to HD (or Fine) resolution, record a 5 or ten minute video and check how much space you have left on your card. Most camera displays will give you this info in terms of 'Time left' at the set resolution. My Sony and Pentax do . Again, give me the camera make and model and I'll see if I can find this info on the manufacture site. Bon chance mon ami, cheers Doug Most cameras also have some fixed internal memory as well as a card slot, with a corresponding Menu point where you can choose where to store your photos or videos. There is also usually a section in the
    manual
    describing the video function and a table of resolution settings versus how long you can record with a given memory size. These days the User Guide supplied with the camera is often very rudimentary and you are invited to download the full Monty
    manual
    from the manufactures website. The 'User Guide' should contain this web address. Give me the camera make and model number and I'll see what I can find.
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Old Sails and Rigging
    Some pictures of the original sails and rigging, to my surprise the carbon fibre mast was in two sections, there is no mention of this in any
    manual
    or information regarding this boat. It could be a replacement (Perhaps a fishing rod!).
    6 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    Paddle tug Glasgow.
    I have just purchased an already built model of the paddle tug Glasgow. I was going over it, and a few bits struck me as odd. The paddles seem to be on back to front, the row boat seems to be on the wrong side, and the paddle covers are stuck down, making maintenance all bar impossible. I was wondering if anyone had maybe a set of instructions, or a
    manual
    , that I could borrow or get copies of. I'm having real trouble finding anything on the net, apart from, out of stock, out of production. Hoping someone can help. Best wishes, Dave W
    7 months ago by rolfman2000
    Forum
    SLA Batteries!
    Mornin' Ed, Veery interestink! These PNP ESCs from mTronik are relativley new. I have some mTronik Viper Marine 10A for my smaller 'brushed' boats and on first use I simply have to teach them which way on the throttle stick is forwards and which backwards. Looking at the so called
    manual
    for your PNP version I note instructions and notes as in attached pics. How you re-train it I can't see! Maybe just start again from switch on, but watch what you do with the throttle stick. Also seems it 'adjusts' as you use it. Quite what that means they don't explain๐Ÿค” Give 'em a ring and ask! I guess you reckoned; 'OK PNP so who needs to look at the
    manual
    '! Common mistook!๐Ÿค” What do you mean by "I then have to switch it to go forward." Switch what, where and how? And what effect did it have? Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: what's that right next to the motor with cables trailing over the motor, and why can't I see any suppressor capacitors on the motor?
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Re CB90's Scimitar (Archer-Class)
    Hi CB, A word to the wise! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Title of your Harbour entry intrigued me, having had a passing acquaintance with such boats. But when I switched to the entry and was confronted with a solid block of text and numbers my brain just switched off.๐Ÿ˜ฒ This is a normal human reaction. Standard writing practise for everything from novels, history books, technical
    manual
    s, presentations etc etc is to split the text up into digestible chunks (paragraphs) pertaining to a particular point, technical parameter, process or concept. Hit the End Of Line / Return and . buttons now and again please. Sure your input was interesting but I didn't get beyond the first half line.๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW; last time I saw those shark's jaw and eye stick-ons was when I pulled 'em off the PTB hull I just renovated. They now adorn the extractor above my cooker๐Ÿ˜‰
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    ESC info...
    Hi Martin, The card starts at 4S because the ESCs recognise 2S and 3S themselves. You only have to tell 'em if you are using bigger batteries. BUT: looking at the
    manual
    s I see a whole load of other 'stuff' for the flyboys which is useless for boaters and would need to be switched off๐Ÿค” e.g. 'Flywheel', 'Governor'. To change some of these functions you apparently need an 'extension cable' which only further complicates the issue ๐Ÿ˜ก Sooo! Stick with the deal you found at the start of this thread and just switch off the 'Brake' function. This easy to do. You only have to select the Mode 'Forward/Reverse' or 'No Brake'. The ESC will normally be delivered in Mode 'Forward/Brake/Reverse'. I have done this with all my 'Car' ESCs only takes a few seconds๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    46Firefloat Mk2 paint
    Going back to your query RNinMunich, something over thirty years of my life was as an engineer officer in the RN. Half in sea going appointments and the other half spent mainly directing ship support and maintenance. Great times!! I spent a bit more time today reading up about DF systems. Loop antenna on Wikipedia was interesting. it seems to me that a simple
    manual
    DF loop would be a feasible option for the teardrop; it was certainly that on many varied aircraft at that time (inc the Wellington). Also, thinking about the size of the teardrop, it may be small for a DF loop, but comparing it to the other navigation lights, it's really too small to be one of them! I love chasing all over the net trying to find positive solutions to little mysteries!
    7 months ago by astromorg
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    I bought the model boat kit new from Bournemouth Models in 1998. They were the main suppliers of Robbe models and parts in the U.K. at that time. it came in several boxes and a lot of room in the garden shed. It took some time to assemble all the separate pieces into their respective components. Then final assembly as per the
    manual
    and diagrams. Yes the hand rails were there at the beginning, and remained there for the first couple of years. With the standard jib and main sails, there was very little interference with the sheeting. The problems were with the transportation, as they are exposed on the edges. The stansions would catch on clothing while lifting and walking with the model.
    8 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    Now the
    manual
    .
    8 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    Neil I have all the documents scanned to pdf files. Could I post them on this web site, so anyone can download them. Are you able to get them printed. There are 4 full size A0 plans and two Construction
    manual
    s. I Separated the English text, and reconstructed the pages, to be copied on A3, double sided, then put in order and Folded to make the A4
    manual
    .
    8 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    Ahoy NPJ. I can copy them and send them to you. There are 4 plans, and they are full size A0. The full instruction
    manual
    is a booklet of A4 size. A separate instruction
    manual
    for the Genoa/Blister addition. It has some good points on how to manipulate and set the sails, even if you don't have them. I did use a higher while I was building the yacht, so there are marks on the text and diagrams. However, this does not hide or cover the text and diagrams, and you will be able to follow them. It will take a few days to copy, and get ready to post. Ray
    8 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    speed line models do the old HFM kit now. he will have the instructions and fittings
    8 months ago by petec
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Hi Martin, First your last question๐Ÿ˜‰ "What DO you do with a 3rd channel?" Example: 5 foot destroyer! 1 Throttle. 2 Rudder 3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys 4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys 5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!) 6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10๐Ÿ˜‰) for Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights. All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays! Alles klar? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Re the DX5e; if I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service
    manual
    or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't ๐Ÿค” and should know the binding procedure backwards. I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses. I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all! Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed ๐Ÿ˜ก She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' ๐Ÿค”
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    I'll have to get in touch with RS then. Thanks. I'd much rather buy electrics than make! All these aftermarket Rxs claim they are compatible with other companys' Txs and hundreds of thousands appear to be just that. I'm still pretty sure that DX5e is duff. I read on an American forum they're calling them Wreckums, so I ain't the only one. And I ain't paying their prices for an Rx either when the Orange and the Storm are, effectively clones thereof. I was surprised to find the things wouldn't bind to the FlySky, but then the
    manual
    for that is crap and doesn't cover binding to any other Rx, even though it's headed "other Txs. and Rxs. So, the Rx thing has cost me 15 quid in all. The 50 quid I paid for the TX is what pisses me off big time. I take it there's no reason why the Flysky shouldn't bind to the Storm and Orange is there? If I did send you the DX5e would you have a look at it for me? I'd rather pay you than someone over here I never heard of.. Cheers, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Martin, I bought both the DX6 and the Orange RX/Flight Stabiliser (tip from pmdevlin for the Catalina๐Ÿ‘) in the firm belief that both were dual format. After the sad discovery yesterday I ransacked the Web for all
    manual
    s / guides I could find, no mention of DSMX anywhere for the Orange gizmo, and then the Spektrum small print for my DX6. ๐Ÿ˜ก Ho hum, what the Germans call 'Learning money' (Lerngeld). There are other Orange RXs which specify both formats - but none with the stabiliser ๐Ÿ˜ญ So now I'll try the Lemon (and hope that it isn't!) That was the only reason I bought the damn thing in the first place. Got enough DSMX RXs from Spektrum, the AR610s. Bought a batch of six for a decent discount ๐Ÿ˜Š BTW: my AR610s run great on a 4.8V NiMh pack๐Ÿ‘ No binding problems at all. I bound all 6 RXs in one go as soon as I got my stickies on them. ๐Ÿ˜‰
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Brace yourself!
    Trying to rig the main tops'l and mizzen tops'l braces, I found the winch servos seemed to rotate more than the 3.5 times I thought they did. Oddly, one rotated 4.5 times and the other 4.25 times. I plugged in other winch servos and got the same results, but my DX6 transmitter didn't have a servo-travel setting that I could find in the
    manual
    . So I made new winch drums - again - based on what the servos were doing. The fore tops'l brace was fine, but the main seemed to pull one side more than the other side. I mentioned this oddity on RCGroups and someone suggested the DX6 did have a servo travel setting, and I was sure I had looked for it years ago. My
    manual
    isn't where is usually is, so I found a PDF on line. Lo and behold, there's a Servo-Travel setting spelled out on page 42! So I set about adjusting my TX settings to the new drums and there you go, working as advertised! In the meantime I installed eyes in the mizzen for brace blocks to mount to, and made a brass wire ring for the main tops'l brace to tie to as noted on the original ship a few posts back in this thread. I apparently slopped some epoxy on the inside of one of the mizzen tops'l brace thru-deck fairleads and blocked it up. I need to pull it like a bad tooth, and replace it, so the mizzen braces are hooked up yet. Here's some exciting video of the separate bracing for the fore and main tops'ls. http://todd.mainecav.org/model/constellation/videos/con20180623a.mp4
    9 months ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    OK, after further research via HorizonHobby and Spektrum found it! There are some later (?) versions of the DX5e with DSMX & DSM2. (Now discontinued!) Default is DSMX, which would probably account for your TX not binding to an Orange DSM2 RX. For that you may need to switch the TX to DSM2 mode as described on page 6 of the
    manual
    . For the AR610 RX, check the printing on it if it says DSMX or DSM2 and set the TX mode accordingly!! Hope we are getting to the bottom of this slowly ๐Ÿ˜‰ Now back to fibre-glassing my PTB ๐Ÿ˜ฒGood luck Martin.๐Ÿ‘ Ciao, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Ar'ternoon Martin, Sorry but I don't see it! Nowhere is DMX 'splashed' on the TX or mentioned in the
    manual
    or Quick Start Guide (downloaded from Spektrum last week)!? Only DSM2. Neither do I see Orange receivers mentioned anywhere!? So what TX DO you have? is there a date or issue number in the back of your
    manual
    ? As mentioned before, a photo or two would help enormously and save a host of Posts back and forth. I hate unsolved mysteries ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    You're dead right FV ๐Ÿ‘ Just checked the DX5e
    manual
    I downloaded and it's DSM2 ONLY.๐Ÿ˜ฒ My DX6 bonded to the AR610 easily cos both are DSMX. So Martin: what you need are AR500 DSM2 RXs!!! BUT: all Orange RXs I have seen so far are DSM2 compatible, usually printed on the top! So where does that get us?? Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Evenin' Martin, What does "uppermost" mean ?? The negative (black) of the battery lead should be towards the edge of the RX. The red positive is always in the middle however you put the plug in. The Bind plug is only a short circuit between the negative and signal pins. it should ONLY EVER be put into the socket labelled "Bind/VCC". The battery you can put in any other socket, Black towards the edge of the RX case. NOTE: in the DX5e
    manual
    there is a warning about Binding and connection problems when the TX is very close to the RX, less than 4 feet, and/or if there are metal objects close to either TX or RX. The latter can cause reflections of the TX signal to be interpreted as interference or 'noise' and prevent connection. The RX looks for a series of uncorrupted signal packets to be able to Bind, and subsequently 'connect' to it's own TX. Binding simply 'teaches' the RX the GUID (Global Unique IDentification) of 'it's own' TX. Try the binding out in the garden (take a brolly with you as required ๐Ÿ˜) away from metal objects and walls etc. With TX and RX at least 6 feet apart. Good luck, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600โ‚ฌ, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina๐Ÿ˜‰, cost only 69โ‚ฌ (is now available for around 33 quid๐Ÿ˜ก) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.๐Ÿ‘ In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap๐Ÿ˜‰) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English
    manual
    with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite๐Ÿ˜‰ NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect๐Ÿค” albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below๐Ÿ˜‰ Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜ฒ) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not๐Ÿค” Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge๐Ÿ˜ฒ The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature๐Ÿ˜‰ Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    Thanks commodore for the info Ron
    9 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    Ron, you can get all thevents information you'll need from the Association of Model Barge Owners website. incidentally, for a sailing model, the best scale is 1/24th i.e. 1/2 inch to one foot which gives a hull length of about 42 inches.
    9 months ago by commodore
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Hi, Doug: Either of the two file formats you mentioned (.docx or .pdf) is fine, whichever one is easiest for you. Speaking of .pdf files, do you (or anyone else reading this) know of a website where I can download a user
    manual
    for the 27mhz or 40mhz versions of Hobby Engineโ€™s tugs? From the details you mentioned in your
    manual
    it seems like it has useful information thatโ€™s not even mentioned in my 2.4ghz version booklet. My
    manual
    doesnโ€™t mention anything about the rear hatch, for example. I donโ€™t know if thereโ€™s anything about maintenance in your
    manual
    but mine has nothing at all. it seems odd that thereโ€™s nothing written at all about prop shaft lubrication or other basic maintenance. My six page booklet tells about installing AA batteries in the transmitter & how to place the 7.2v battery pack in the boat. Thereโ€™s nothing about how long the 7.2v battery should be charged or how to charge it properly. Very strange.
    9 months ago by Pete
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    thanks martin
    9 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    Ah, OK, Ron. in that case I'm afraid I can't help you, but I wish you luck. The rigging should be fairly standard. I have Ewart Freeston's book on making static models of them I could check things in that if you need. Cheers, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    It needs a complete refit Martin , fittings are missing the rigging is in a right mess with broken mast ect. I'm not a big fan of these boats but doing it as a favour for a club member. I have found plans online for a Thames barge which at a push I could possibly use.
    9 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    Does it need so much that we couldn't talk our way through it for you? I don't know a huge amount about sailing barges, but I know the basics and I have books about them as I am supposed to be making a 1/43rd scale model as a pattern for a kit for a model railway company's scenic accessories line. Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Build
    manual
    / instructions
    I have contacted them Martin to see if they can supply the instructions but not had any reply as yet
    9 months ago by kmbcsecretary


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