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    Place
    Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club
    We formed in about 1989 as "The Boat Club" based at the Ellesmere Port Boat Museum. In the nineties we changed the name to the Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club. We meet and sail at the Museum but now have a pool at The Hooton Park Trust site. We are currently 30
    members
    strong and have models of every type.
    6 years ago by epmbcmember
    Place
    vicar water model boats
    the club is approx 10 years old and is situated in vicar water country park at clipstone nottinghamshire. we are a small club of about 40
    members
    and the first saturday of the month in the summer months we race club 500,s and yachts the
    members
    have a good variaty of boats and the
    members
    are a friendly group anyone in the local area are welcome to come along and sail .
    members
    hip to the clubis cheap and all are welcome
    7 years ago by Bezzo1951
    Place
    Chasewater Model Boat Club
    couple of pics from our variety of models sailed and from our recent Club 500 inter- club race. Come and join us on Sunday mornings, new
    members
    welcome
    12 years ago by Gregg
    Place
    Vale of Glamorgan Model Boat Club
    Hi all just to say happy new year to all our club
    members
    ,and hope to see you at the waters edge this year. Cheers for now , ken
    9 years ago by VGMBC
    Forum
    New
    members
    :-)
    Welcome aboard 'torpedoesloss' πŸ‘ In U-Boats that would have been "Torpedo ... LOS" Cheers Doug (AKA RNinMunich) 😎
    7 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a β€œpremium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats
    members
    , I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton β€œpremium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete
    5 years ago by PittsfieldPete
    Place
    Workers Hubertus Model Boat Club
    The google maps insert for the club shows an incorrect location. I do not know how to amend this but the correct co-ordinates are -33.874296,150.713729. Physical address is 205 Adams Road Luddenham NSW Australia. The club now has 72
    members
    , sails every Sunday from 8:30 am to 2:00pm featuring all scale models and all classes of yacht. There is a group of DF95 owners who sail every Wednesday from 9:am to 1:30pm
    6 years ago by rcmodelboats
    Place
    Gauteng Model Boat Club
    Good to see more
    members
    here Simon
    11 years ago by SimonL
    Place
    help needed to rig a model yacht
    im sure we can help u we hold our meeting every second tuesday of the month at the boat museum cafe from 7pm or we could make arrangments for u to bring it to our site at the hooton park trust just off jn 6 m53 ch65 1bq where we have
    members
    who can help u hope this helps
    5 years ago by nutrunner
    Blog
    spinnaker sail
    when talking to other
    members
    of my club it was said that nobody can remember a spinnaker sail being used on the pond so challenge accepted worked well
    5 years ago by jacko
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    My Dear Gary, If you wish to start a Steamer thread then why not title it as such? In no way did I wish to be AntiSocial. I simply responded to your somewhat provocative question, which I quoted in my previous post, as did several others on the site in similar vein. Whilst I admire those who can build steam engines, and I have done that on this site, I simply listed in my response to your (perhaps rhetorical question?) the obstacles that most modellers are faced with when it comes to steam power in models. Perhaps I should have added number 7. - For most of us the SHIP is the main objective and not the power plant which in the vast majority of cases is hidden under deck. If steam is your THING - GREAT I have no problem with that. More power to your boiler 😊 It just won't work in my ships and boats. Esp. my subs πŸ˜‰ And I don't have the patience for all the faffing about necessary to get going at the lake - one of my six points mentioned above. And I suspect that goes for many other contributors to this site. My post simply consolidated several similar responses from other
    members
    . You write; "I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share ..." I would be MOST interested to read your refuting of ALL my six points if you have some valid arguments. Throughout my professional engineering life I have always been open to alternative ideas and solutions. So prove me wrong and uncross my wires please. I look forward to your point by point refutation. BTW; as an experienced electronics engineer I always carefully double check my circuits before applying power - so crossed wires are not normally a problem with me. Similar principle also applies to my considered response to your posts. Regards, Doug 😎 PS: did you build your steam engines or buy them? There are some guys on this site whom I admire very much, but can not emulate, who build their own. PPS: Quote "In the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat." Fine, if that's your THING, does come across as a little fanatical though.πŸ€”
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I really can't believe that considering all the
    members
    that use this website, that no one is interested in steam engines and what steam has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine. in the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. if anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for steam, kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.
    5 years ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks John, so much to think about, I will have to do some more research, your set up looks good, my motor's are gear drive to the paddles. They run at the same speed on one or two ESC's. if I use two sticks on the tx for tank steering what happens with the rudder. Sorry for my ignorance, multi motor control is very new to me. I'm still learning, with the help of the this site and the knowledge that the
    members
    are willing to share with us. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Modellers Exhibition Midhurst
    A really good turnout of Model Boat Clubs and
    members
    of the public at this exhibition today - a couple of photos if you missed it.
    5 years ago by ads90
    Response
    San Pedro by Harbor Models!
    Oh, I forgot to mention. This will be my first attempt. At a fiber glass model! So, I will be learning and building. At the same time! There will be a lot of questions. Asked of the MBW
    members
    ....!
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Modellers Exhibition Midhurst
    Not long to go now - any other Clubs or forum
    members
    attending, I am sure there must be ? Alan Sec / Treasurer BMBC
    5 years ago by ads90
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Good Morning, Gary: (It's Morning somewhere!) I have been interested in steam for a considerable time, and even have an article stashed away on making a turbine for a model of the SS Savannah, which is, after all, a steamship with a nuclear powered boiler. My own work has been limited (mostly by budget) to the Midwest Models single cylinder steam engine, and I have a "Fantail Launch" kit ready for some upgrades and installation of the steam engine. Stay with us, as I am sure, as already stated by others, that there are interested
    members
    of the forum, and you will pick up more when they see you are not just talking about a little pop-pop boat running in circles. (I do have one of those, as well. I had one when I was much younger, but it is little more than a memory these days.)
    5 years ago by Peejay
    Forum
    The BIG St.Albans Model Show
    Hello hmsneuralgia Welcome to the forum. Even close family
    members
    wouldn't recognise me πŸ•΅ Neither do I when I look in the mirror sometimes....and some old fella looks back at me. PS. St.AlbansMES do far more than just model boats as you will find out at the show.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi John, You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal. Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site. Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals. About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits. Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows. I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow
    members
    have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats. WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams. NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'. So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections. I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT - if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately? Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams. True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... ! Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Wouldn't call a Precident Perkasa a quickbuild, runabout or ARTR even though there isn't much realistic detail involved, the Hooben however is another matter with every little detail reproduced with superb accuracy. Life is hard enough as it is why make it harder. You are coming across as a pretentious perfectionist who puts down others who don't subscribe to your personal ethos. Not all
    members
    are talented miniature marine engineers but still have the same enthusiasm for the hobby. No one should decry them for there lack of skill, if RTR, ARTR, quickbuild or runabout is the limit of there ability, so what !!, they still enjoy the hobby and that's what it is all about. There are many roads to travel before one reaches there destination and the route one takes is up to them ! John
    5 years ago by bikerjohn57
    Forum
    Park lakes
    "........PS I'm not sure if any other
    members
    are in the Leeds area who may be interested in sailing at Roundhay Park, please contact me........." I have a son living close to there who might be interested in model boat sailing opportunities...
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Park lakes
    You may remember I was having a long running discussion with Leeds city council about sailing on the two lakes at Roundhay Park and seemed to be getting knoware. Until a new councilor took up the challenge and it seems all systems could be "GO" I'm meeting him at the lake on Wednesday. Fingers crossed PS I'm not sure if any other
    members
    are in the Leeds area who may be interested in sailing at Roundhay Park, please contact me
    5 years ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    I must confess not my idea, another
    members
    work. Here is mine, it can be temperamental. May have to suck it myself, but once it starts no problems. Do not leave the liquid part connected when not in use, as this contact can be the problem. it sometimes this needs cleaning. The photo is worth a thousand words. Any questions just ask. Hammer
    5 years ago by hammer
    Response
    Pilot House Structure
    Coming along nicely.That's the thing with Springer hulls.The superstructure is not confined to one style.One of our
    members
    in the club had one hull but three different superstructures.He was able to change them throughout the days sailing.
    5 years ago by Donnieboy
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) North Rock
    Got a lot of info on the Billings D.M.I. Samson tug from the
    members
    . the thing is I saw a drawing of the North Rock tug boat & thought I would rebuild the Samson & build the North Rock tug .Researched original after I painted her & found out the it was white superstructure & black hull to late (8/10)
    5 years ago by GARTH
    Place
    Youngs Park, Goodrington.
    The Torbay club no longer exists, the club had trouble with a rogue swan who had made its home on the small pond and was rather aggressive towards
    members
    of the public and damaged models being sailed on the water. Council were not interested in removing the problem and
    members
    started to disappear, some joined the Exeter club who sail up in the Teign valley at Canonteign Falls. Sailing on the larger pond at Youngs park is possible out of season or after 6pm during the season because of the pedal boats not operating. I don't think the council can ban the use of models on the ponds as it is a public park and signage would have to be in place. it was purpose built for the use of sailing model yachts in the 1930's.
    5 years ago by VFR800
    Forum
    Book on Sailing Barges
    Chris, Thank for the information, I will look into that book. I started in RC Boating but building and racing several classes of sailboats, including several US1Meter class. Being a much better builder than skipper, I was drawn to schooners that many club
    members
    had. Got interested in working sailcraft due to the history and the slower, power of these craft. The Gaff Rigged Handbook by Jihn Leather is one of my favorite build guides. Yes, I really like Gaff Rigging. This book was great for lots of rigging details and sails... See photo example. Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.
    Merry Christmas to you and your family Stephen, and thank you for a GREAT website. Seasons Greetings to all other
    members
    and their family's, and a special one for Doug and his partner for all he has done for me in the past year. Looking forward to 2019 and a new year full of boating.......πŸ‘ Cneers to All😊 Peter
    5 years ago by Rookysailor
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other
    members
    I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    6 years ago by teejay
    Forum
    define a model boat
    What defines a model boat suitable for inclusion in your model boat website personal fleet. my boats are kit built models but could i include a speed boat or a yacht that is purchased as a completed boat,factory made and ready to go ?
    members
    views / comments welcome.
    5 years ago by keithtindley
    Forum
    Scratch built yacht.
    I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort. The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden bulkheads. Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other
    members
    of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books. Many thanks Chris G
    5 years ago by ChrisG
    Forum
    Newby
    Welcome John, I envy you youngsters, a scratch built boat to any standard is always the best way to get what you want, and this site is full of
    members
    with the knowledge and skills to help, sadly I have never been able to build from scratch, but I make lots of parts to repair or replace damaged or missing parts from the vintage models I have restored. Best advice is to ask specific questions to get the best help in the world at your fingertips. Happy modelling and cheers from me Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Are these any good
    I'm thinking of using MASONRY drills sharpened up. I've seen a demo on U tube of this. Some yrs ago I got a set of those drills that are supposed to drill through anything. First one I tried now has a flat end.I couldn't find my
    members
    hip no so can't send them back.BuggerπŸ˜€πŸ‘. They have tips like masonry drills so might touch them up and have a go. it's the carbide tips that do the job. it'a allen screws I'm drilling so what is that HSS or tool or something in between?
    5 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    likes messages
    hi when receiving messages from
    members
    who like my model how are you meant to respond to those messages
    5 years ago by KEN0191
    Forum
    Transfers
    Thanks for the link Havelock, For me though a can of fixer is still cheaper than a laser printer for the few times I need to print decals, an' I've already got two A4/A3 ink jet jobs any way. Bon chance to our richer
    members
    who have laser printers. Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    1-35 scale S100 schennllboot
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other
    members
    I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    6 years ago by teejay
    Response
    Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    Plan B was much more successful. The better half was going to town and brought back a very useful testing pond, or a storage box for those observant
    members
    .😊 All was good. 😲
    5 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Media
    RAF Fire float
    This is a old model I purchased to renovate after few months here is the completed build. Must give many thanks for all the advice and help given to me by the
    members
    of Model Boats, and thanks to all the other builds I gathered a lot of the information to the build. Tried to get a near original model but a few discrepancies as not all to scale. We’d more practice and experience this is my third build so am still learning.
    5 years ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    PS Waverley
    Thanks for the offer, Marky, but it's specifically the Waverley we need drawings for, or rather the superstructure. Sarik have a set, but hardly exhaustive. I suppose general dimensions and all the hundreds of photos will have to do, unless any of you guys know differently. I was going to ask on Paddleducks but they are talking closing down for lack of use and age of the
    members
    hip, so no point asking there. Doug, can you imagine the repetitive stress problems of twiddling a pin chuck that many times? I have a lovely old fine feed pillar drill, but it's in bits being cleaned and repainted. Cheers, Martin
    5 years ago by Westquay
    Response
    Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club
    Hello there epmbcmember. I went to visit you site a couple of weeks ago to sus out the approach. A great pool and facilities. Met a very helpful lady who give me a look around and a
    members
    hip form. I am a little limited in movement and your setup looks to be at the right height, approachable and no parking problems. I live in North Wales and will be sending the
    members
    hip form in as soon as I can find my cheque Book! All the best. NPJ.
    6 years ago by NPJ
    Forum
    1/24 crew figures
    Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew
    members
    but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?type=product&q=royal+navy+sailors I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.
    6 years ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Clyde Puffer
    members
    might be interested in the preliminary construction details of our Puffer . Shown is the steel laser cut keel with frames slotted in position . I have to make a jig to hold the whole lot in place while i weld it up. The boiler i made earlier and Gordon already has a beautiful compound engine ready to go. He tested the boiler under steam recently to 80lb and all is well.Will post more pictures as and when. Les Breame
    6 years ago by lesliebreame
    Forum
    Wave Princess
    Hello there, easy to send P. M. To any member, just click the
    members
    name on a post, then click the private message button, put your questions etc. Then post. it will not be seen by anyone else but the member you send it to. Cheers Colin.
    6 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Wave Princess
    Hi mate lm not to sure on how we communicate between
    members
    , not been on the M B website for long my self. l can get a copy of the plan printed up dont want paying for the plan just make a donation to the website. I think one of the a adjudicators may be able to explain how to communicate without putting to many personal details out onthe web. ok jim.
    6 years ago by jimdogge
    Media
    solar
    members
    might like to view my experimental solar powered "BOAT " More like an aircraft carrier !! No batteries carried even for the radio. Brushless motor running from 24 cells giving 12volts. Slightest shadow will stop it.The panel i made myself by buying individual solar cells from Ebay and soldering them up.The cells are sandwiched between glass which makes it quite heavy and next project will have no glass but the cells are VERY fragile.
    6 years ago by lesliebreame
    Response
    S 100 Schnellboot RC build
    I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisfaction as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the
    members
    help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good
    6 years ago by teejay
    Response
    ASR 64 ft RNZAF HSL W1. R/C vid 3
    Thanks for the positive comment, and yes, it''s a great pond, part of the Gulf Harbour development on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula in Auckland. it is home to the Gulf Harbour Radio Yacht Club, the
    members
    having built the jetty, and they race a number of times a week. I am about 15 km away in Red Beach but its worth the 15 minute drive on a day such as this one.
    6 years ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    lastest progress
    Hi RNinMunich thank a lot put my mind at rest and nice to have the reasoning explained , also good to here from you, been a while, and good to be back making stuff again after getting the needles in my spine hope all is well with all
    members
    6 years ago by teejay
    Forum
    Bending thin plywood
    Gardener, I go out in the garden, where I have some large ex paint tins. I soak the ply in the water butt, then wedge it against the inside of the tin with a stick of bamboo, until the sun has dried it. By then it's nicely curved and can be glued to your frame
    members
    , you made while it was drying, out of 3mm ply. Make sure the top really IS dry and then weight down the structure while the glue is setting thoroughly. I've just made a long section of deck/hatch for my Chris Craft version of a Sea Hornet that way. Cheers, Martin
    6 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    1/16th scale Fire Boat decals
    That's done. My chum is casting resin crew
    members
    as we speak and I have some binoculars in white metal. Cheers, Martin
    6 years ago by Westquay


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