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    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build E
    Might try that sometime Martin sounds good. I buy proper Randolf brand (USA) butyrate aircraft dope from a local 100% aircraft accessory/parts co by the quart, (about 50 NZD as against 20 for 250ml from the hobby shop) so next time I'll try some. Have used it with talc (now I think of it - had completely forgotten DUH !). Good for fine finish on the plane
    models
    pre painting. Thanks for reminding me!
    5 days ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 34'' Crash Tender
    This very much reminds me of my own 34" crash tender that I built at around the same time I had a series of photos of it along with some other
    models
    that I took on my 'Kodak Instamatic' camera but somewhere along the line they were lost which really saddens me ๐Ÿ˜ญ Nice job on the refurbishment ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ Robbob.
    5 days ago by robbob
    Forum
    Aerokits Plans
    ".... I think this might be one for our 'Dodgygeezer'!? He runs a site with some vintage plans..........Just tried 'em and they don't work.๐Ÿค” At best they'll redirect Dodgy's site needs updating!....." Yes, indeed. My sites (unusually for me!) try to comply with current legislation. Very simply, this means that I need to get permission from the rights holder, or declare the item to be an 'orphan'. If you want a discussion of my interpretation of the current copyright legislation, ask for it in a separate thread! In general, where vintage model kits are still being sold, I do not publish plans, since these can be obtained commercially. All the plans which are available for free from my sites either come with explicit written permission from the rights holder, or documented evidence that I have researched the history and found any rights holder to be unavailable. That is the case, for example, for all 'Marinecraft'
    models
    , which were created by Model Aerodrome Ltd, merged with Model Aircraft (Bournemouth) Ltd, became Model Aircraft Stores, and then reverted to Model Aerodrome. At some point in the 1970/80s the kits were discontinued, and Model Aerodrome was sold to an entrepreneur in 1987 who resurrected the business under the name 'ModelZone'. This went bust in 2013, and W.H.Smith bought the name to sell imported model cars under. Their legal department do not seem to know whether with that they also obtained the rights to some model boat plans designed in the 1950s by a company started in the 1930s. Nor do they seem to care. They have, of course, no existing plan data, so as usual I have to reverse engineer from surviving examples.. Tracking this kind of thing is complex, and the Aerokits
    models
    have been through a bewildering series of ownership (and claimed ownership). Often this seems to be the same people trading under different names. At the moment SLEC seem to be making (and selling) the kits, while Cornwall Model Boats, Jotika, Lesro and Vintage Model Works and a good few others all distribute them. Of particular interest is Belair, who have an agreement with Colin Smith to produce the old Phil Smith range of kits. But while all these are being commercially provided I will refer plan requests to the rights holders. Tracking all this it time-consuming, but it looks as if I should do a bit of link updating at some point...
    5 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D
    Hi, I think you are right about "Friday" speed controllers. I prefer the control to be more responsive just in case. I like scale speeds or should I say more realistic speeds and I like the idea that I could get out of trouble quicker than I got into it. After spending many months and sometimes years building these
    models
    it would be a shame to have damage due to a slight lack of control. However I do admire the skills of the Guys that control there fast speed boats Well that is my opinion. Martin.
    6 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    40'' seaplane tender, new build
    Thanks Martin, as I mentioned, it takes a bit more fiddling when you don't have a proper plan but I think it's the same with most scratch built
    models
    . I'm lucky I took this photo back in the 70s as it gives a good view of the profile, and the colour movie of it my friend has is a bonus. As long as it looks the part I'm not too worried. I thought that I put this in the build section but it seemed to jump to the forum section. Don't know what happened there, maybe early morning brain fade? I'll try again to use the blog for the rest of the progress, and see what happens. Not sure if I can transfer this lot to the blog, might be a bit disjointed otherwise . John B
    7 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Direction finder aerials /water pumps
    Hi Elsrickle, Thanks for the photo๐Ÿ‘ Every picture tells a story ๐Ÿ˜‰ That is definitely a very basic loop detector, so it must rotate to find anything. But not like an egg whisk please ๐Ÿ˜ฎ The display in those days would have been a phosphor CRT which needed time to react, so around 10-20 rpm or so would look fine. I heartily agree with you that adding such basic functions of the original as 'special' functions of our
    models
    is more than half the fun. Not to mention the challenge of realisation ๐Ÿ‘ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Direction finder aerials /water pumps
    Many thanks. The boat I am about to start is the Caldercraft Milford Star and saw the direction finder on the parts list. Have seen it on a photo of the model and if it turns while the ship is sailing I would like to make mine work the same. I fitted a water pump in the Amati Fifie I have just completed with it pumping out water from the side, as engine cooling and would like to incorporate it in the Milford Star if it had the same thing as the effect is quite good. I enjoy adding these extras to my
    models
    where they were fitted in the actual boats.
    9 days ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    AERKITS SOLENT LIFEBOAT
    Lesro had the whole range of the old Aerokits plans in 2009 - not sure about the 2 Lifeboats. Try contacting them - Les Rowell designed most of the Aerokits
    models
    , later left to set up his own company - hence Lesro . The lifeboats may have been produced after he left Aerokits.
    10 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Hi Doug, Getting a bit heavy for a simple guy like me, I just want to make
    models
    LOL!! Martin.
    10 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Have I been Demoted
    Would be nice Doug, but I've got toooo many planes! Thought about putting my Graupner Super Cub (scratch built repro of the model I had in 76) or a few of my other 16
    models
    on floats (nothing to a Chinese guy here who has 150 ARF
    models
    !!!) as I am just up the road from a large estuary which is the perfect (almost) spot for a seaplane (see Goog pic,- I'm the green house bottom center). Also the number of flying fields is rapidly diminishing, (in the large part due to whingers who move in next to a site -not only planes, boats as well- which has been there for years and start complaining), happened to our iconic stock car track (60 odd yrs) at Western Springs (also a large concert venue) in Auckland a few years ago. I occasionally fly my planes in the large sports park off to the far left of the pic.
    10 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Have I been Demoted
    "sometimes prevents flying tools or
    models
    etc ! " Ever thought of building a Flying Boat / Seaplane JB?? ๐Ÿ˜ Catalina is a good subject๐Ÿ˜‰
    10 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Agreed Martin, one thing at a time! BUT: Stuart; I believe we are discussing your 24" Commander here. In which case your results mirror mine with my 24" Sea Scout. Except that my prop shaft did not bind!!๐Ÿ˜‰ It was also reluctant to plane with a 2S LiPo (7.4V nominal) but went very well and planed easily with a 3S (11.1V nominal). I also was using 4000mAH batteries. I published my results using various batteries here in the Media - Video section. Go to the Media Gallery and search for Sea Scout. So, I would leave the motor and prop alone and (after fixing the prop shaft!!!) try a 3S battery. I'm sure you will be satisfied ๐Ÿ‘ Prop technology is complex as Martin said, our old friend Bernoulli raises his head for instance๐Ÿค” But, essentially bigger is better for more speed or same speed with lower shaft revolutions when applied to real size ships. BUT 2: with our electric powered
    models
    bigger props often simply increase the load on the motor causing it to draw more current for a fractional increase in boat speed if any. In essence props with fewer blades are inherently more efficient as you hinted. Minimum being 2 of course ๐Ÿ™„ Two bladers are popular with the Fast Electric guys for that reason. I don't do speedboats, I'm a scale guy and my maxim is; If the real vessel had an XYZ screw then so will my model! Summary; first fix the propshaft; lubrication, alignment with motor shaft, ensure a few thou of clearance between prop hub / locknut and the end of the shaft tube. Preferably with a thrust washer in between. Second, fit a 3S battery preferably crosswise above the C of G of the boat. As you can see in the pic of my Sea Scout 'engine room' in your Commander thread. For those with a mathematical mind, undying curiosity and an afternoon to spare I attach a paper on the Principles of Ship Propulsion from MAN, the supplier of small to huge diesels to probably a majority of ships (commercial and naval) built today. You should find Chapter 2: Propeller Propulsion particularly illuminating! Happy reading ๐Ÿ˜‰ Just remember the paper deals with real ships and real water, we have scale ships but not scale water๐Ÿค” Basic dynamics still apply though. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Have I been Demoted
    I find cursing very stress relieving under certain circumstances, sometimes prevents flying tools or
    models
    etc !
    10 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Hi, If you have a left hand and a right hand propeller then you will need to reverse one of the motors. As for propellers I think that at the and of the day you will have to experiment to find out what suits your needs as you must remember that you are dealing with scale
    models
    and that the water it is on is not at the same scale. A 2-blade propeller produces two pressure pulses per revolution, whereas a 3-blade propeller will produce three smaller pulses per revolution for the same amount of total thrust. As a result, the 3-blade prop will be inherently smoother and therefore quieter. A 4-blade propeller can improve all those characteristics that make for practical, all-around boat performance. Four-blade props usually have a lower pitch to keep the rpms the same as a 3-blade. But are 4-Blades Slow? So, why might a 4-blade generally be slower than its 3-blade counterpart? To be honest, many 3-blade/4-blade speed comparisons are simply not fair. Thatโ€™s because the respective propellers in question are simply different styles, designed with different purposes in mindโ€”different diameters, rakes, cupping, and blade shapes. If however, for comparison purposes, we take two propellers, identical in design (blade shape, diameter, rake, cup, etc.) that are appropriate for a given application, and simply add a propeller blade, we get a truer representation of just where the difference lies. The addition of the extra blade causes increased drag, which, in turn, requires more horsepower, in order to achieve the same rpm. Since the horsepower is limited, the rpms drop, and the speed will tend to drop with it. This is why, when going from a 3-blade to a 4-blade, the pitch is dropped an inch, or more, in order to keep rpm parity. It is this difference in pitch that causes any potential speed differentials between the 3-blade and the 4. I don't know if this will help you but this is a complex subject and you could get your self totally bogged down with all of the theory. Martin.
    10 days ago by Martin555
    Place
    Philadelphia Ship Model Society
    The Philadelphia Ship Model Society was founded in 1931, making it one of the oldest continuously active ship model clubs in the United States. We are devoted to the building of both radio controlled and static ship
    models
    ; and to the study of Naval and Maritime history. The PSMS meets monthly on the first Thursday of each month at 7:00 PM. Our meetings are held at the Independence Seaport Museum. Our monthly meetings include an interesting program on techniques of model building or naval history, and often feature a guest speaker. We enjoy wonderful camaraderie, great programs, and fantastic refreshments!
    12 days ago by tgilchristjr
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Hi Doug, I agree with you hole heartedly, as I said the complexity of this subject is a bit of an art form. Bring back hand crank and Archimedes screw LOL!! (Mind you the operator used to burn out) As you may have gathered I quite like scale
    models
    to move in a manner that they should do, I don't see the point of a nice scale model shooting across the water like a bullet unless it is a scale speed boat. Martin.
    12 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Abergavenny steam and vintage show.
    Thanks Redpmg, you're comments are a welcome change to us both. Some people think we are strange having such large collections of
    models
    . My wife used to design and build 1/12th scale dolls houses. But she got bored at the shows with me and my boats, so when she inherited her uncles collection of trucks she decided to build on this and has doubled this collection over the last few years. My love of boats started at a very young age, as my parents were both in the Royal Navy and my dad was a keen modeller, plus we had family boats right up to my dad's death in 2008. So we spent our summers out on the North Sea until dad retired in 1985 when he and mum moved to Aberystwyth on the Welsh coast. New waters to sail and fish in the Irish Sea. So boat modelling is a part of life, which I love to share and encourage anyone who shows an interest. My son is just getting started as my grandson who is 4 years old is really keen and I am teaching him how to control and manoeuver my tugs. We are building him a tug of his own later this year. Sorry about the waffling on but I get carried away. Cheers Colin. ๐Ÿ˜Š
    19 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Abergavenny steam and vintage show.
    Really great collection of boats and lorries between you - wish I still had the first boat I built (own design yacht) but its probably still rotting away at the bottom of the Leopard Rock swimming pool in whats now Zimbabwe. Did you build entirely on your own or did you get some help? Gave up on my patrol boat aged about 10 as I could not get the skins to fit - not knowing the trick of wetting the ply first. Built a hobbies Anglian instead - sadly also long gone - lost in a move. As an aside George Turner told me he designed a lot of
    models
    for LLedo and Corgi so I suspect there's a few among your wife's collection. Pity he did not continue with his boat kits - they were a real treat - but he said he got bored !
    19 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, How many times have you wanted to work on your
    models
    tilted at an angle. When it is in it stand you have to wedge it to the required angle and prop it up so that I don't move. Well I use a piece of thick memory foam, place your model on it at the angle that you want then gently press it into the foam, hold it there for a short time and that's it. It stays there. Martin.
    21 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Good morning Doug, I have always steered away from using acrylic paint on my
    models
    as in my head I keep thinking that it will wash off. Martin.
    22 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, I don't know if this is widely known but this little tip is for paint. How many guys that use enamel paint also purchase enamel thinners. I have found that is an expensive way of thinning your enamel paint. So I just use ordinary white spirit is perfect for the job, I use it in my airbrush and have sprayed many
    models
    with it.(gloss or mat paint) And also use it for cleaning up after. Very cheap and the one chemical for many porpoises. Martin.
    22 days ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Offshore meeting 2019 , Hamburg Germany
    Those
    models
    are awesome. Martin.
    23 days ago by Martin555
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    After the trials, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this model is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced modeller though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around. However, enjoyed building a model of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter! Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other modellers, which was much appreciated. Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust model with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again. Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale
    models
    to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa
    models
    show how well these layouts work. There are several photos attached; 1) Stationary. 2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S battery 3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S battery. Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S batteries. It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.
    2 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    Have never aspired to aircraft, enjoy boats too much. I use a Fysky (Turnigy) FS 10 Tx which is very competitively priced. This Tx can be programmed for up to 20
    models
    , so use it for several different boats, some multi-screwed, others single. Some with 'elevon' throttles, some conventional. Think this Tx would have the capability to be used for both aircraft and boats. Worth a look rather than buying a unique Tx.
    24 days ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Mast light colours.
    I am refurbishing a Mountfleet C642 Admiralty Coaster, circa 1946. Could someone tell me what colour the mast and stern lights would be please, I don't want to get them wrong and I can't find a picture that shows the
    models
    lights other than port and starboard of course. Thank you in anticipation.
    26 days ago by rossiter
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi, You have some very fine
    models
    there. Well done. I love your r.c ducks LOL!! Martin.
    24 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Well said matey, carefully looking after those precious
    models
    so that you can enjoy for years to come.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜Ž Cheers Colin.
    24 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Mate, too many years in salt water . Tips? the secret? I really paint all my wood
    models
    so thoroughly and make internal wood coamings inside of the superstructures and actually hose down first thing at home with a soft hose stream to wash off salt. Most of my hulls and decks when the model is finished have been "painted" local hardware paint or sprayed with fibreglass resin thinned down about 50% or so on paint varnished wood ( even polyurethane 50% thinned ) of which BOTH are so clear and some
    models
    over 30/35 ( i/c and steam ) years are still impervious to attack and a bit bullet proof and every so often I do a clean down with say a household (any brand will do) kitchen bench type of cleaner, supermarket spray mist cleaner , you know the ones that smell so fresh and clean that they kill ONLY 99% of all germs and baddies ( what a crock ) and I then take the model/ bits onto the grass still smelling so fresh (UGH) and gently wash away the germs and baddies and just sun dry for a bit and put back in the shed for another day. I am so petty, I also save up the dry cleaning flimsy plastic sheets and cut the sides so I have a long sheet to drape over each model till the next run the sawdust of other shed jobs does NOT get on the model. I fold the sheets off with the dust side to the inner fold , hoping I do not forget which side is which ( I think I am getting OLDER )before I check out the model (radio test, fuel ok , just lightly SINGER oil carburettor shaft , rudder post prop shaft bits , check the glow plug works, inline fuel filter is clean , AND AND leave my engine settings alone year after year AND try to exactly mix the same fuel blend over and over by careful measure but you can slop a tad more oil in as *Oil is CHEAPER than steel , if a bit rich then one click on the needle yet my mates rib me as I leave it *ALONE ). I always check, ALWAYS on the day BEFORE next days run and avoid things that go wrong at the pond side , ( you know the guy who glitches and bleats it was going so well last time ) as I am in OPEN waters I do not chance fails. Regards and good boating Lyle from Oz.
    25 days ago by Lyle
    Response
    Re: Finished at last.....(but might change or add some things later!)
    Mate , I had prostate surgery in Oz and with ALL my steam and I/C
    models
    , post surgery I knuckled down to do my Precedent kit ELECTRIC motored ( shudder, shudder). Anyway the pulpit rail actually hangs ahead / well forward of the forepeak decking. All the Fairey Marine Internet pics and the Old Model Boats article of so long ago demonstrate this fact . Not knocking , but the anchor cable chain is pulled up from the water the "deckie" has to ensure he does not hit the fore hull and he can lean a fair bit over the water to get purchase in the anchor /chain/rope pull and try to not slip in the drink. Not picky , just from experience of such wealthy type vessel handling. The Blue looks like Renault type blue and very nice. Lyle.
    25 days ago by Lyle
    Blog
    Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
    Renter a UHaul trailer to transport the
    models
    the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Managed to get Constellation into the Miles River, but only in shifty winds between two piers full of boats.
    26 days ago by Jerry Todd
    Event
    Open day
    Open day event all welcome, toilets available ( little walk away) cafe adjacent the lake, parking available at side of the lake, bring your gazebo set up on grass, sorry, no ic or steam
    models
    on the water.
    29 days ago by KenThompson
    Blog
    HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Hi Guys, As I mentioned the Bridge in my last log I thought that I would cover the Radar on top of the Bridge. As you may have gathered I quite like working with plastic card, so making the Radar was just a case of gluing some layers of card together and shaping. To make the Radar turn I modified a standard servo to continually rotate and by adjusting the pot slightly I managed to get it to rotate clockwise one full rotation at a speed of approximately two seconds. It seemed to be the correct speed, as I have seen on many
    models
    the Radars spin like a helicopters rotor blades and to me that is not correct. The video is 'hidden' in the Invalid File. To view- Click on the Invalid image, Then click the Download button, white arrow on blue background at top left. Windows (App?) offers the choice of View or Save. View with Media Player or equivalent. Martin
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    Hi DodgyGeezer, Thank you for all of the information. I understand this a little bit more now. I see many
    models
    hammering across the water but I like to see more scale speeds. So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed motors? (I must admit that is what I have fitted) Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: WSP 9
    Nice looking boat but I tend to shy away from the ABS plastic
    models
    now. They don't seen to be formed from firm enough plastic now. I have made a couple in the past and they seemed a lot thicker plastic back then The last one I made was an SHG Piranha.
    1 month ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    What batteries?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700 motors. NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the controllers. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts. Motors would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all
    models
    . Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC controllers and AC motors, it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    1 month ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    General information required
    Good afternoon Model Boats members. I am a newbie & I am after some helpful information from any members. My brother in law passed away recently & was an avid builder of R/C boats & a perfectionist. He has a big collection of various boats, sizes, etc. We would like to sale them but we are not sure how to go about it. We have approached the local auctioneers but they want a fairly hefty part of the sale price. We have also looked at ebay but not to sure about that. We have also been in touch with Howes
    models
    but they offered a measly sum of ยฃ500 for the lot!! Any information would be most grateful. Jimbob901๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿคž
    1 month ago by Jimbob901
    Event
    International competition of steamboat
    models
    Also in 2019 you can look forward to an international competition of steamboat
    models
    . But you know that. What you may not know and you should know is the fact that the 16th edition will take place in a new location. It is the former cove of the Elbe River named Grado. It is located at the pub of the same name at Kรกranรฉ. On foot and by bike, you can also visit ฤŒelรกkovice, which lies on the other side of the Elbe. By car you can easily reach D10 to Starรก Boleslav and from there to Kรกranรฝ and further up the Elbe on its right bank. We look forward to seeing you, with or without steamboat
    models
    , at 10 am on Saturday 18 May 2019. ย  When? Saturday, May 18, 2019 from 10:00 am GPS Coordinates: 50 ยฐ 10'14.369 "N, 14 ยฐ 45'9.702" E
    1 month ago by Inkoust
    Response
    Re: HMS EXETER.
    My Exeter is a type 42 Destroyer. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to scan and being old school I can only just work a computer. I have no details of her that I can post as she was sold many years ago. I seem to end up selling my boats mainly to fund the next one and as I have no transportation to get me anywhere to be able to sail them. I end up just ballasting and testing them and that's it. Also as I am not a member of any club the only thing that keeps me interested in this hobby is being able to message members like your self, and by looking at all of these fantastic
    models
    that other members have made. Martin
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Type V11C Submarine.
    Hi Martin, Thanks๐Ÿ˜€ Pics are a few years old. Both
    models
    are sadly in need of refits now. U25 is functional but the top half, deck and conning tower etc, had an unexpected collision in the work shop dry dock - with the floor ๐Ÿ˜ญ Hotspur was gutted a few years ago to renovate the hull. Intention is to modernise the electronics and fit an Action Electronics dual ESC with rudder mixer to improve the 'cornering' of such a long narrow hull. Crewmen were sort of made by me๐Ÿ˜‰ I shanghaied them from some ancient Airfix 8th Army and Afrika Corps 1/72 soldiers I used on the backyard battlefield as a kid. Modified some for their new roles; e.g. the guys with mine detectors were given brooms to scrub the decks instead! The ones climbing ladders were originally crawling with rifles in their right hands. Cap'n on the bridge is actually an Afrika Corp tank commander! I have some new crew for U25, one of them seems to be a bit peed off with his posting ๐Ÿ˜ Guess I'll have to pull my finger out and put all this 'stuff' in a Blog or Harbour or summat!! Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Type V11C Submarine.
    Hi Doug, Both excellent
    models
    . Did you make the crewmen? Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, A little inexpensive tip for marking water lines on your
    models
    . Just use a clothes peg, pencil,and a couple of elastic bands.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Blog
    Fiddly bits and lights
    Hi yโ€™all. Sheโ€™s almost there. I swear for a fairly easy boat to build I have almost as much time in the thing as my Neptun.๐Ÿ˜ฎ I keep adding a little here and there, but I need to finish her. Once I maiden her, Iโ€™m โ€œdoneโ€ I rarely go back to a project Iโ€™ve finished to modify or add details, with the exception of RC cars. The more I get into model boating however, the more I think that attitude might change. Anyway, I bought some detail pieces from Harbor
    models
    in California, and decided to add lights to the Acapulco too. The flying bridge now has a radios and a fire extinguisher. I took braided wire, stripped off the insulation and used that inside a piece of heat shrink for the hose, itโ€™s not perfect but looks ok. I shortened the radar mast that goes behind the seat because...well, I just didnโ€™t like how it looked. I added 2 aft nav lights to it also, Iโ€™m waiting on lights and boards from Harbor, once those are installed Iโ€™ll tidy up the internals, pinstripe the water line and she will be ready for her maiden run. I need to get her done as I have another project in the wings,and Iโ€™m gonna have to do some engineering to accomplish what I want I have in mind....๐Ÿ˜ Cash
    1 month ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Guys, I have a little tip for powering some LED lighting. When you use the BEC from the ESC it will free up the socket that the battery would of used. So if you use a receiver connector and connect some LED's to the red and black pins You have a low voltage power supply. I have used this to power the navigation lights on several
    models
    ,also it indicates when the boat is switched on.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Guys, Thank you for the LED calculators it is much appreciated. Being an old guy and doing things on a zero budget is a bit of a challenge,I tend to use whatever I can get my hands on. I selvage old broken electrical stuff for the parts to use on my
    models
    , and recycle plastic food containers for usable plastic. I tend to look at all sort of things and think to myself what can I use that for. It is surprising what you can make from junk! I suppose I should get up to date and do things properly. Thanks again Guys. Martin.
    1 month ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    Hi Dave. The level of detail that we put into our
    models
    is a personal thing and it's by no means meant as a challenge to other modellers to match, and it is foremost a matter of personal satisfaction. There should be no expectation that your own efforts have to match that of others, although I have taken inspiration from seeing other similar
    models
    built to a far higher standard than my own and chosen to emulate them because I like to challenge my own abilities with limited tools and skills. As model makers I'm certain that we are very accepting of other peoples work however well it is executed and I'm full of admiration for anyone who puts the time and effort into constructing something to the best of their abilities and exhibiting it for all to see. Remember that those that judge or criticise have often never gone to such efforts. Show off your
    models
    with pride ๐Ÿ˜€. Kindest Regards. Rob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Walrus ASR Diorama
    Hi all, as promised the build blog for my new project which I will be building over the next couple of weeks while on 'bed rest' ( code name for the project is 'pleasetellmeitsnotaplane') As with all my
    models
    i Believe that getting it factually correct adds to the overall effect of the model. The 2
    models
    involved in the Diorama will be a Mk. II Supermarine Walrus from RAF Squadron 277 based at RAF Shoreham in Sussex and a Mk.5 Spitfire from US Navy VOS-7 based at HMS Daedulus, RNAS Lee on Solent, Hants. I came across an article about US navy pilots using Spitfires as air observers and spotters for the battleships and cruisers during the D.Day landing when they directed the 'big guns'. onto specific targets. There were 17 pilots and they were all trained observer/spotters from American warships and all trained on the spitfire/seafire as there was a pool of these types available (these were all Mk5's which had been superseded by newer aircraft) meaning if a plane was lost then providing the Pilot was OK he could get back into the air quickly. In just 26 days they flew 209 missions for the loss of only 1 life, 8 air craft where lost but all pilots where rescued 3 by a walrus. This was the only US Navy Squadron to fly spitfires but It is not often talked about, the Americans have this thing called NIH when referring to other allies equipment, it stands for 'Not Invented Here' so if they didn't build it they didn't use it. The diorama will show a Walrus on the Water effecting a rescue of a downed Spitfire Pilot who is out of his sinking aircraft and in a liferaft being pulled towards the Walrus. The diorama was planned out using roughly assembled (Loads of Blutak)
    models
    laid out to get a feel for the size and drawn 1:1. And now the big moment ....drum roll.. my first Airfix kit in over 40 years (if you don't count the Flower class Corvettes (but they were big) Attached some photo's From day 1
    2 months ago by boatiebennett
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi Ken, I have been making
    models
    for many years now but there is always something that you come across that you know what you want to achieve but don't know how to get the results that you want. Like these rivets I tried different things but just couldn't get the results I wanted. Hopefully today I will try the dressmaking pins and see how that looks. Martin.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi Colin, Yes I think you are right. I have been finding my way around this site and have seen fantastic
    models
    and I really admire the skills of many of the members. And as you say you are learning all the time, there must be so many little tricks and tips out there. Martin.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    Super detailing, on a superb model. I wish I could do as well on my
    models
    . Well done, keep up the good work matey. Cheers Colin.
    2 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi You can buy a silicone rubber molds (green stuff world) on Ebay. The mould can produce rivet and nut heads etc in various sizes. You fill the mould with FIMMO clay and put in your oven to harden. You will need a bit of patience gluing them on. I have use the hex nuts to great effect on my
    models
    . I Also have used dome headed craft pins. Just ask if you need more information
    2 months ago by Hillro


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