Response

Re: Futaba F-14 Conversion Problem!

Hi Martin, The controller is marked 40mhz. But, It's actually a 2.4ghz controller! The conversion back to 40mhz. Is quite easy though! All you have to do is unplug. The 2.4ghz ! And unplug the 2.4ghz antenna! Plug in the 40mhz crystals. turn on the 40mhz reciever! That's it your done! The folks at Cornwall Model Boats. Are ordering a compatible reciever and crystal set! They will then send me the s. And everything else I need! Also, I don't mind converting back to 40mhz. Because, I really want the expandsion of channels! I think I can go as high as 32 channels!

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Gifted Transmitter

Hi y’all. Last Wednesday was our monthly “club meeting” for the North Texas Shipwrights. It’s held in a members home. Larry is retired, has been in modeling since..well, forever. He has a lot of models and kits..enough to fill the upper story of his house! AND, his wife is okay with that! Anyway, Larry loves to horse trade. He’s also fairly generous. If he has something he doesn’t need, will never use and he doesn’t feel like trying to sell it, he’ll give it to a friend. That’s how JP and I both recurved Futaba FC16s! Mine has the twin throttle installed, and one more upper switch than JPs, but they’re the same transmitter. It’s 40mhz, illegal here, but I’ll install a 2.4 Frsky DHT and go from there.

5 years ago by Cashrc

Response

Re: Futaba F14 Dual Thottle Installed!

Hi Martin, I looked inside the controller. At first it's very intimidating. But, I thought here goes nothing! It was easier than I thought! Nothing to it!👍 Now, when I go to do the upgrade. I hope the comes with documentation!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Directory

(Working Vessel) Eppleton Hall

Still in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. (Motor: 540 MFA 919D) (ESC: VIPER Marine 25) (10/10). All electronics have now been installed including 2 motors, 2 ESC's, a small smoke generator, a sound and speaker, a rudder servo, a distribution panel, all running off a 12V gel cell.

6 years ago by Ishmael

Response

Re: Ordered Futaba F14 Controller!

"PS. Also ordered the Dual Throttle control as well!" Aha! Clever boy👍 That Twin Stick is a whole different kettle of smoked salmon😊 You can twiddle that with two fingers or one thumb. Have fun Ed. Would still like to see Brooklyn shoving the ducks around sometime though😉 "It turns out the credit card company had restricted the credit card instead of approving it." Aha 2! Thought perhaps you had moved to Kamchatka or Vladivostok without telling us!😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Extra channels

Re - I still don't understand why JB needs two RXs in his boat either. I'm supplying a free shovel Doug (shovel-Doug- get it.😂) The reason I have 2 RXs is that the new compact sound unit has a main power in and a 'throttle' lead to the RX (self contained with speaker). The 'throttle' lead is Siamesed with the ESC throttle lead then to the RX. The other unit is a multi function with a separate speaker, and for the throttle, it has a port for the throttle lead from the RX which then goes out a port in the other end for the ESC throttle lead. I am using a converted Mode 2 TX (twin throttles) so 1 ESC/sound for STBD is on r/h stick (ex elev) and the Port side is on the left hand stick (ex Thro). If you plug the new unit into port no 3 (throttle ) and the other into the elev channel you get some sort of feedback (even took out the Pos wire,- still does it. Solved by using ch3 on the second RX, Can you dig it? I didn't get where I am today by not confusing people!!😁 JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Hobby king had a good pic of the in the Ff1 kit, looks like I have the same -hope this helps

5 years ago by Cashrc

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Thanks Cash. I've got the but no instructions or information, even frsky website can't help. So if you have the info I need I would be very grateful. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Colin, do you presently have a Frsky for your Futaba? If not, I might still have the one I was using in my Hitec optic 6. They use the same . Let me know I’ll look for it, can’t remember if I gave it to a buddy or not, but I’ll check

5 years ago by Cashrc

Forum

Wiring help needed.

On modding transmitters to 2.4, remember that every different manufacturer has thei own proprietary 2.4 code, so if you have a 2.4 brand in mind, make sure the transmitter matches the receiver. I use Frsky, and I think they make plug in s to replace the transmitters frequency if it has a plug in in the back. If not, some manufacturers have a “hack” that you solder in and also drill a hole for the bind switch. I converted one of my Multiplex Cockpits to 2.4 using a Frsky , works great!

5 years ago by Cashrc

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Thanks Doug, I will dig out Futaba radio set an see if I can figure out how to use it for the boat. Haven't had it out for a few years now, so I hope it still works. I have a new 2.4 and receiver to match that I was going to sell with the tx, but I think it could be ideal if someone knows how to set it up. What do you think about this, could aircraft control be used for a boat. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Wiring help needed.

Doug, that's a lot to take in at one go. Can I run an esc after the UBEC, if so any ideas as to what type, and where from. I suppose if it's possible I could try one of my 7 channel Futaba aircraft tx and rx. Systems and use a 2.4ghz . But I would definitely need help setting it up, oh my god what have I done. Cheers Colin. 🤔

5 years ago by Colin H

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U

Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound and speaker in one box. This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the but when you plug the into the comp and open the control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Motor reversing

Although I have studied and tested the reverse switching method that Martin has given us to reverse such things as pumps and motors using a servo, (see his build blog on the WTC), does anyone have an electronic solution, whether a bought or a built circuit, that will perform the same action but use a lot less space and save weight. It would have to be Tx triggered. I do like your idea Martin but I am trying to save weight in any way that I can so that perhaps I can add torpedoes to my Gato build. Thanks, Peter.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Boat retrieval

"Interesting how does that work. ? How is it fitted in the submarine. ?" I just knowed you wuz gonna ask that Martin🤔 I'll have to dig through my archives to find the articles I saw it in. May have to resort to my hard copy archive😐 Model Boats, Modellwerft, Schiff's Propeller etc. The essence of it was an unsecured hatch in the flooded hull under which was the buoy and a coil of small gauge light fishing line. How they stopped it releasing during normal diving I can't remember, was years ago I saw it. On reflection; maybe the hatch was secured and released by the Failsafe ? 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Stern assembly

This weekend I decided to do more work on the Gato Submarine. Now I am starting to realise how big this job to build the model is, let alone the WTC which I am thinking about and starting to plan in tandem. I have been working on the stern today trying to get the rudder and aft planes in a working state. I have followed the video made by a kind soul on the internet which I am finding very helpful. To make them fit properly has resulted in a lot of filing and reshaping particularly on the rudder. All of the edges were interfering all over. After a considerable amount of adjusting, they now fit and work perfectly. A hole was carefully drilled right through the height of the rudder to allow for a shaft to be inserted for operation. Small holes were also drilled through some waste material to produce two running bearings for the rudder shaft. There has had to be a considerable amount of material removal inside the stern halves to allow for the planes and rudder to work. This was done using a burr in the Dremel and files. Great care was taken not to remove too much and go right through the part. I am having a little problem with warpage of one of the stern halves. You can see the gap between the parts in one of the photographs. It might be that they will glue together without incident if I fix them well with bands during curing. Does anybody have a cunning plan to straighten this part before gluing? I have purchased the propeller shafts and tubes so further work on this will continue when they arrive, probably towards the end of July. I have now purchased my chosen motors. They are MFA 360. I have also ordered the raw materials to make the motor mount and servo trays. I wonder if I have to put the usual three suppressors on the motors if running a 40Mhz transmitter. Next time I am going to work on the bow planes. I will have them working and retracting. I bought the gears for the retracting mechanism today but have found them to be too big on diameter to fit two side by side in the bow . The gears are perfect in every other way so I think I will reduce them to quadrants which should fit nicely. More cad design work for me I think.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Re: Revell Gato Class Submarine Conversion.

That's an impressive piece of plastic! How will you service the internals etc once glued together, o-ringed hatches or is the tube a complete drop in/removable ? Must be a job trying to keep everything dry in subs, bad enough with racing boats! Certainly will save a lot of hull construction work doing it with the kit. A bonus would be that gluing bits to this material is easy and it's reasonably durable.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Fairmile c class maiden voyage

Sounds like you need to have a dedicated TX for the boat. I had a similar problem as I fly planes also. I bought a Hobby King HK6s mode 1 which is a basic 6CH but is easy to convert to twin throttles for boats (I have 2,- 1 for smaller planes and 1 for boats + a 6x, 9x and 2 9XRs). Makes life a whole lot simpler not having to use relays and switches for motors. The other TX is the Fly Sky 9X (Turnigy 9X, IMax 9X) which has more switches and functions (plus easy to find extra RXs outside HK,- 3ch, 4ch, 6ch,which suit) or if you want overkill, a TGY 9XR pro and JR , which has everything you will NEVER need on a boat . Maybe you could use a program to pulse lights, (I have it lowering the flaps on my Cub in 2 stages in small steps /pulses and slow stepless up for eg,) or perhaps have the center motor only coming in over 1/2 throttle through a separate RX,- options are endless. I think the HK 6s is the best if you just need a 6CH or the 9X for more features. You can use the rotary switch (6s) through a Sky RC remote switch (eg) to turn on lights etc plus the toggle sw for another function. Just depends on the $$ really Not sure if you are using Lipos, brushed or brushless setup but either way sounds like 2x 3s 3000mah 20c lipos should work, especially if your motors are brushed 12v , also maybe try reducing the prop pitch or diam to take a bit of load off the battery/s. Depends obviously on a number of things such as space, motor type (no of poles, KV, size etc), boat weight, battery type and capacity/discharge rate etc. Lipos are by far the best option for powering models.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Motor forward and reverse

I am seeking some help with the electrical setup for my new Dusseldorf project. The model, when completed, will use 15 channels to operate fully. I am using a Frsky Taranis Plus transmitter with the x8r receiver. I have purchased two frsky sbus 4 channel decoders which will give me the required channels. I have most things covered, I think, but am a little stuck on what I will need to make the small geared motors work in forward and reverse on one channel. I have a lot of the Turnigy rc switches to operate most of the functions but these will not give forward and reverse options. I have been thinking that I should have the main items such as rudder, throttle and lights etc operating through sbus on channels one to eight and the more difficult functions, such as the crane lift and lower and the anchor up and down, directly through the receiver on channels nine to 16. I think my problem with the lift and lower (reversing motor direction) might be solved this way by using the on off on switches, several of which are on the transmitter. I would love to hear what those who have experience of multiple channel usage think and possibly if there is a that I could connect through sbus to give the forward and reverse option I seek. Thanks. Peter.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Motor forward and reverse

Hi Martin. Your solution is very useful. The Düsseldorf does have a lot of available space to add these servos. If there is no suitable , I will use this. I will need to build three so you can see why a small would be a little easier. Thanks for the solution. I have a way forwards. I will be back to you later about how to best cut plasticard😀 Peter.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, Another little update. I have installed the remote on/off switch in between the pump and the pump switch arrangement, fitted some connectors for the battery and battery charge systems,fitted a small digital volt meter and fuse holder. Completed the wiring and tested all systems. Everything in this WTC is bits and pieces that I have collected over the years. I must admit that using the standard servos made it a lot more difficult to get it all to fit in. Because I am using the BEC from one of the ESC’s it means That the battery position on the receiver is not used, so l have decided that I will power the navigation and running LED’s from it as when it is powered up I get 4.5 volts from it which is ideal for the LED’s. I did plan on having the signal light working in morse code using an Arduino board but I have not got the room to fit it in. I will see if I can make some sort of simple flashing system instead, if not then I will have to forget it. Here are some photos of the forward and aft s being tested, and one photo of the forward in the tube, you have to admit it is quite tightly packed. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, The pump is now connected and tested. Fitted the two forward bow plane servos, unfortunately I had to use double sided tape to fix them down. I have a few more little bit to fit and a bit of wiring to figure out and then this will be done. And obviously test fitted in the tube again. I have lost count of how many times these s have been in and out of the tube. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, One more small stage completed. Soldered the wires on the forward/reverse switch and tested it then glued it to the main . Test fitted in the tube. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, Pump now attached to the main servo/battery and test fitted in the tube. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Blog

WTC/Sub Driver.

Hi Guys, Made the Receiver/ESC and glued it in place, attached the Receiver and will fit the ESC’s later as I have a bit of tinkering to do to one of the servos I need to reverse it as it is pulling instead of pushing. The photos are of it test fitted in the tube. Still a long way to go but it has certainly given me something to think about, it is quite a challenge but I am enjoying it, and I have not done to much swearing !! Yet. I have drilled more holes in the hope of improving air circulation in the tube. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Place

Sound

Hi I’m now on with hms Brinton , coastal mine hunter my last ship in RN. Does anyone have a sound that’s is programmable so I can put on the Napier Deltic , or does anyone know how to build in the sound please. They’re too expensive on line and the Deltic one they’re selling sounds nothing like the real thing. Happy New Year all by the way. Back sailing soon as stitches healed and I can bend. Nobby

5 years ago by Nobby-Clark

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Sounds good to me Selwyn 👍 That board is a sensible (essential) idea in that setup. Stops a stronger battery trying to charge the weaker one.👍 I have several Action Electronics s as well (duplicated some 😁) They're good, well made stuff. Anyway, your brushless ESCs will 'see' 12V so setting them up as running on NiMh should do the trick. if you set them up as 'LiPo' they might think it is a 3S 11.1V battery and try to let the volts go down to 9V before cutting off!! Not good for the SLAs 😡 IF they assume it is a 4S 14.8V Lipo they will cut off at 4x3.0 i.e. 12V which will drastically shorten your run time; you'd have to keep the SLAs near fully charged (13.6V) all the time. Bon chance mon ami, let us know how it goes. All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Revell 1/72 Flower Class Corvett

Revell model at stern you see a small servo with micro switch for the Ram whooper sound . Pic with upper deck on side shows speaker and electronics with 9volt battery power. Moving forward Harbor Models small 6 volt smoker, 3000 nimh 6 volt battery with 2 connectors powers smoker fan and main motor from ESC.

6 years ago by Mikep

Forum

Steam whistle sound with smoke

Just pondering how one would set up and sincrconize a simulated steam whistle. Since I’m not running on steam I could use smoke from my smoke unit and of course a steam sound . Any ideas as how To do this? My thought was using the RAM ship whistle which works with a micro switch. One servo would control both the whistle and at the same time release squeezing off neoprene tubing would allow smoke to issue out the whistle. Anyone thoughts on this would be appreciated.

6 years ago by Mikep

Directory

(Naval Ship) Battleship Missouri

Modified Sterling model kit, scale drive 4 shafts. Twin rudders, smoke and cannon sound . (Motor: 6 volt) (ESC: Hitech) (5/10)

6 years ago by Mikep

Forum

Exciters/transducers

Hi Neil (or Neville?), There are two issues with using four. 1) Since these 4 Ohm transducers work by bringing the surface they are mounted on to move like a speaker cone, there may be no advantage. in fact two on the same surface may create waves through the hull side that partially cancel each other and thus reduce the volume. True, they may sometimes combine as well. This effect will happen in specific frequency ranges depending on the stiffness of the hull. Put one each side on the largest open area available as we discussed for the tug. Cheaper anyway 😉 2) Speaker impedance and the minimum that the amplifier can handle. Check the Digisound specs Output Impedance to see if the amp can handle 4 Ohms or only 8 Ohms, which is the case for all sound s I have seen or used. As with your tug, two x 4 Ohm transducers in series gives 8 Ohms for max volume from an 8 Ohm amp output. Four in series would give 16 Ohms which would significantly reduce the volume produced. Two x 4 Ohms in parallel though only presents 2 Ohms to the amp, which highly likely will blow the output transistors 😡 All four in parallel would be only 1 Ohm which would most definitely produce the 'magic smoke' 😭 Don't forget to put a little enclosure around the back of the transducer after it's stuck to the hull. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS What 'Oldest First' button? I don't see one. if you are using the dumbphone App I can't help you. I DON'T!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

getting a bit slow?...

Evenin' Martin, Re: 'New Posts'; when you log on to site on the 'Home Page' the latest post are displayed. Scroll down and at the bottom you will find a 'Show earlier posts' button, in case you have missed something. Your dioramas sound marvellous👍 can you post some pics??? Could give me some inspiration for my 1/24th Mosquito. At that scale it has a wingspan of about 30 inches 😲 I intend to fit it with motors and lights and a sound with that wonderful Merlin sound 😊 Your input could help create a great diorama 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter

Yes I was that person with the transducer( amongst others). I originally had a speaker inside the lower superstructure of the tug, where there are window openings, but without any glazing, so in theory the sound should have been able to escape. The engine sounds were OK but the other sounds, on a different sound , were only audible if the model was more or less within arms length, which I thought unsatisfactory! Aha I thought, use a transducer attached under the deck, other people seem to get satisfactory results. I didn't. I think that there is too much clutter on the deck of the Southampton,which is not that big, preventing the hull from doing what it is supposed to do. Next idea is to conceal a normal speaker on the deck disguised as a pile of pallets, with lots of lovely gaps to let the sound out. Chris

6 years ago by octman

Forum

Steam sound unit (variable speed)

What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate s to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound s I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Steam sound unit (variable speed)

Hi Eric, I've looked at the Action engine sound s again and they are not restricted to any make of ESC. They take their control signal directly from the RX ESC channel and have a socket on board to connect the ESC, whoever's it is 👍😉 The sound is however synthesised to enable this. Dave's Action Noisy Thing is obviously the better choice than the Micro s bur of course more elaborate and thus more expensive. Seems to be very similar to what I found here in Germany. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Steam sound unit (variable speed)

Exactly! 👍 The advantage of the German sound s I found is I believe that you can sequence the engine sounds start, run, idle, stop etc (or any others!) but I don't know yet if it is (or can be) linked to the ESC control. Had other things to think about recently 😉 I do know that they can be linked to other functions; e.g. crane, gun turret noise, when these are activated so it should be possible! Wishing a Happy and Noisy New Year, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Steam sound unit (variable speed)

Hi Eric, I have a sound from a specialist German company who only make electronic s for models. I'll dig out some info / links (in English😉) and post/send to you. You could also look at the Graupner Sound . On both of these you can load your own sound files in raw WAV format. There are thousands of these of genuine ships sounds on the WWW. Can send you some samples if you like. The advantage of the digital synthesised versions however is that they can be linked directly to the motor speed! if you mess with the replay speed of the WAV files they just sound daft 🤔 Or you have to find a way to synchronise separate start, accelerate and cruise sound files to the model speed. rather you than me Gungadin!😉 BTW: I'm not sure that the Action s only work with their ESCs! As an electronics engineer I'm sceptical and will test that with other ESCs. Cheers and HNY, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ?

Looking for crew for your Tiger were you?? 😉 BTW: if you're going to put a sound in the Tiger tank and want genuine sound bites: start up, (running with squeaking tracks), and stop, idle, shut down, gun fire, heavy machine gun fire: I have a whole directory of such sounds in wav or mp3 format. Can send if you want. Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

NAXOS - Fishing Boat

I use the sound on my ship from the Slovak manufacturer to give her a preview of what sound it has. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzqUrNaYp0g Plan for Naxos can be purchased here: http://eshop.rcrevue.cz/planky-modelar/225-naxos-014s.html?search_query=Naxos&results=3

7 years ago by watson220

Directory

(Tug Boat) Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank)

Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and sound with speaker. it's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'. (Motor: Marx MonopermSuper) (5/10)

7 years ago by Radiosailor

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

The TGY i6 and the Mtronics sound arrived yesterday. Some other small bits today. Transducers etc Tuesday they say. Wife wondering what is happening.........................! All the best NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Re Technobots Sound Units- "As part of our review into the product ranges we stock, this engine sound unit is no longer available from Technobots. We have been the retail outlet for the excellent engine sound designs of Alan Bond of Forge Electronics for many years and have proudly supplied over 1,000 of these units to modellers around the world. The good news is that Alan is going to continue production of the programmable sound unit so please visit the Forge-Electronics website for pricing and availability. Our rather popular and well respected range of single voice and combo engine sound units have had a makeover! They still have the same great sounds but are even more user friendly." https://www.technobotsonline.com/combo-engine-sound-unit-mk2.html Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Hi again Neil, did you mean their sound s? Something like this? http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Sound-Systems-For-Scale-Models/digisound5mLMC.htm Don't know these anyway🤔 Up to now I've used simple analogue sound boards (some home made) and microswitch /or relay control. Also have a Graupner programmable sound system in my stash, destined for Ark Royal. Doug 😎 Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Hi Neil, I know the feeling, but Gently Bentley! 😉 What do you want your sound system to do? there are simple single sound boards e.g for motor sound; diesel, petrol, steam in various types, sirens - operated by a simple servo/micro switch/relay system or full blown programmable s where you can load your own .WAV format sounds. There are thousands on the electronic spider web! Several years ago I built a CMOS driven relay board so I could operate four functions from one proportional channel: destroyer siren (Whoop Whoop!), smoke, lights, fog horn. Was a home made PCB about 4" square! Nowadays one mini will do all that and much more; Plug and Play, plus you can load your own sound files from the PC, but is that so satisfying?? Another debate😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS for some inspiration have a look at the Component Shop site under Action Electronics; sound! I've just bought the Asdic sound board for my destroyer; test report follows. 😉

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

PT109 Refit

Hi Dave, glad you found the pics useful, that's what we are all here for n'est ce pas? 😉 may have a few more detail pics in the archive, will have a rummage later. The two 'black boxes' are 'ready ammunition' drums for the Browning 50 cal MGs. You can see them again in pic 14. They sit on an equipment box in front of the cabin, cos on this version there is an extra single 50 cal mounted on the port corner of the cabin. See pic 23!! The one after the starboard prop pic. The penultimate pic shows the MG in detail from the rear - Operator's PoV. The silencers (mufflers in American) have a simple butterfly flap valve to deflect the exhaust into the silencer box with an underwater outlet. BTW: the actuators are missing🤔 They were a simple rod mechanism actuated from the stern deck. Still looking for detail pics! Maybe we could figure out a way of coupling them to a motor sound for 'Whisper Mode'?? Bit small to see when out on the pond though! Cleaning the glasses helped the eyesight a bit😉 straightening out the crossed eyes and retraining the brain took a little longer 🤔 happy building and exciting but safe sailing, cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Gadgets and Gizmos

Hi Nick, As basic as this sounds I got a switch that you plug into a channel on the rx to control lights or just about anything remotely. I've also got a sound with 2 speakers from eBay that you load the sound onto a microSD card which I find amusing, this also plugs into a rx channel. Animatronics is new to me, I'm learning slowly, my 1/4 scale Donald Campbell should scare a few people. I'm also dabbling with 3D printed linear actuators at the moment, I'm up to 130mm of travel from a normal servo. Ohhh the entertainment 🤗 Cheers Wayne

7 years ago by Midlife306

Forum

Mtroniks Sound

Thanks for the help. Turns out my unit was missing said wiring loom!

7 years ago by barnet

Forum

Mtroniks Sound

Anybody installed this? Says says 'comes with with wiring loom'. - can anyone confirm what the wiring loom is, I think mine was missing from the box.

7 years ago by barnet

Forum

Precedent Perkasa

Can't find a gas turbine sound anywhere but I used the air start diesel (details below off there advert)better than nothing and quite impressive ( I think ). MTronik Digisound Large Multi Cylinder Air Start Diesel Ref: 4462 The digiSOUND5m is the new marine sound from Mtroniks Ltd. it is the worlds first 100% waterproof, plug n play sound designed to take the hassle out of giving your model a realistic sound! The sound requires NO programming or set up, it comes with a realistic sound pre-installed leaving just the installation to complete before you can get under way! The unit comes complete with built in amplifier, wiring loom and even a 75.0mm diameter waterproof speaker! You simply install the unit in your model and go! There is no complicated PC interface to deal with or complicated set up, you REALLY do just have to plug it in and go!!! Add this to the legendary Mtroniks waterproof construction and you really don't need to look any further! Peter

8 years ago by Peter501

Forum

Precedent Perkasa

Hi I believe President don't do the glass hull now due to a fire at the factory who produced them so now only have the wood hulls. I also have the 49" Perkasa (grp) hull you can see a picture in my profile, I run mine on a single prop with the following set up and it runs very stable and very fast although you need a big water to open up to full throttle.......... Leopard 4074 brushless motor Tinergy 120A ESC 35 prop 2x 500 4S lipos wired in parallel....... gives about 50 mins fast sail time even longer at a more scale speed. Mtroniks digisound sound Spectrum DX2e wheel type transmitter.

8 years ago by Peter501