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    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build
    Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model Boats mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. ) I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it. The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.) Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves. Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc. The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored. The model will use brushed 540
    motors
    with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project. Model Boats frames boat sheets Landcruiser
    motors
    ESCs ๐Ÿ‘ Like ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share 5
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: row row row your boat
    How about a geared 6 volt motor running a cam. These
    motors
    can go down to as little as 14rpm and are very small.
    2 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Upgrade to 2.4
    This is a plastic boat which used to be sold in large numbers for the RNLI. It is now rather rare and is collectable. Here is one on Ebay for ยฃ127! Note - that does not mean that they will get a sale at that price - but they will still sell for quite a lot! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-RNLI-SEVERN-RADIO-CONTROL-LIFEBOAT-RNLB-VOLUNTEER-SPIRIT-GREAT-CONDITION/264428640626?hash=item3d912cd972:g:8OYAAOSwrdRdUWr8 These were often converted to 'proper' 2.4GHz by modellers. I've never examined one, but I think they are 27Mhz, driving two
    motors
    which provide steering and power. If that is so, a conversion would mean buying a 2.4Ghz radio set, a single motor and propshaft and a servo and rudder, taking out the entire inside of the boat and re-installing the new equipment. You would need some modelling skill to do this. It is unlikely that the other 2.4Ghz sets interfered with your signal. The 27Mhz set installed in your boat will have limited range compared with the 2.4Ghz systems, but it should work adequately close to you. Perhaps your batteries are weak, the aerial is badly positioned, or there was some 27Mhz interference close to you? If someone else was using a 27Mhz radio close to you then it may interfere if they and you were on the same 'spot frequency'. The 27Mhz band is divided up into sections, and only one boat can use one of those sections at a time. These sections are given colours, and you fly a coloured flag on your aerial to tell everyone that you are using that section - called a 'spot'. Do you know what spot your boat is on, and was there anyone flying a coloured flag on their aerial near you? I think you have a difficult decision. Either keep it as it is and make it work as well as it can, or get some help and spend some money converting it. I would try to get it working as well as I could first. Have you tried a range check? Get someone to hold the boat while you walk away with the controller and see how far it will work... and the next time you take it to the pond, ask one of the experienced modellers if they can help a bit...
    3 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z8.1
    Re Are those the V16 Detroit Diesels ? I wish Red! then she'd be faster than 22knots!! (but sitting up to the gunwales!!) The day someone makes square
    motors
    is the day we will be able to make a reasonable facsimile of an engine. Tried to find a plastic model of the Detroit 453 (thought of making a couple and running the driveshafts from the
    motors
    through them for a scale look) but there are very few even close model
    motors
    (especially to scale) around. Mostly V8s (had the boat had Detroit 6vs or 8vs I might have been able to bodgey something up) but 4cyl diesel (or petrol for that matter) models are like lips on a chicken. An Aussie crowd does a reasonable 1/20 scale Falcon motor but that's a petrol 6 and the rocker cover's all wrong. If I had used the same 28mm brushless as in my HSL I could have made a case around them and built something on that, but the 540
    motors
    are a bit big. There is a scalish looking Engine shell with a 320? motor inside it on Banggood for around $30 but not sure how big they are, (no size description) - probably look good in a large slowish model. Never mind, can't see them, just a bit of fun๐Ÿ˜Š.
    4 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    large smit tug duel esc
    hi just finished putting new
    motors
    , torpedo 800's in my tug had it running off one 12 volt batt with two 20amp viper speed controllers removed one esc red wire so each prop was individually controlled as no rudder, tank turn all was well in test so today tidyed the wires and fixed them in place and tested it again one of my esc kept blowing fuses and smelt of burning this is the one that powers the receiver took it out of the boat tested it on a battery and puff of smoke phoned howes were i bought them they said send it back and we will look at it never had any issues with vipers so hoping its just a dodgy esc will let you know how i get on and but some picks of my boats up cheers Mark
    6 days ago by 0151rogers
    Response
    Re: Fleetline Marlin & K&O outboards
    Love the outboard
    motors
    . Martin555.
    7 days ago by Martin555
    Directory
    Pair of Fleet Line boats
    Fleetline boats with electric
    motors
    and running lights Have original boxes as well
    8 days ago by Brightwork
    Forum
    Electronic Speed Controllers
    Hello all. I am currently designing the WTC for my Gato submarine project and would like a little help with the ESC`s. I have to keep things as small as possible and as light as possible. Can I wire two brushed 360
    motors
    into one ESC. This would save a lot of space. I am happy to run them in tandem. I have decided to do the ballast by pumping water into the container and out again using a reversible pump run by a second 30A ESC. I would like to run the main twin
    motors
    from the first ESC using channel 3 as usual. Can I run the smaller pump on, say, channel 5 using one of the 3 position switches or maybe the normal aileron stick. Is this possible? Thanks.
    9 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Re: Futaba F14 Dual Throttles!
    Hi Ed, I have Cottesmore set up so that I can use independent
    motors
    and Bow thrust and rudder for manoeuvre in port, then flick a switch to group the
    motors
    together for normal control with rudder. Martin555.
    8 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Electronic Speed Controllers
    "Can I wire two brushed 360
    motors
    into one ESC" Yes you can Peter, That's what I did with my U25. My
    motors
    are 385s. The blue thing stuck to the starboard hull side, with two little white trim pots on it, is the ESC. The board bolted to the engine room forward bulkhead is the power distribution board to the
    motors
    and includes the spark suppressors. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    After carful consideration I think this model deserves a better motor as the one it has won't align to the prop shafts as the motor is much too big. As I have a collection of marx
    motors
    I'm thinking of going with a either a decaperm or hectoperm, unless my spare Tarcol supermarine will line up. I will post again once I find a motor that will align with the propshaft. Cheers Colin.
    10 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    Hi Red, Now that you have explained what a "sticky" is, no the subject of this thread was working with Balsa and as I have not used Balsa wood for so many years I was just sharing my thoughts and experiences, as I might help the newer members that have not used this wood before. As more experienced modellers I think that we tend to lose sight and forget the new guys to the hobby. There is nothing worse than trying to understand some of the more complex stuff when you can't understand the simple stuff first. Anyway enough woffel , the servo has it own built in speed controller. When you strip off the gears and remove the rest you are left with this (see photo) Motor and speed controller. The pot you can use to zero then any movement from the TX stick will dive you forward and reverse. You can replace the pot with two equal resisters ( I think it's 2k2 not sure at the moment. I don't know what other
    motors
    you can use it on that is to technical for me. Also if you remove the motor you can then connect led lighting circuits to it. You can see this on utube. Martin555.
    11 days ago by Martin555
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-5
    First swim in the 'indoor test tank'. Floats spot on and has truckloads of power. may have to fit the 80T
    motors
    yet as it may have a bit much thrust with the 45T 540s, have to wait for 'sea trials' to see what if anything needs changing. Excess power is a waste I think, and it's better to motor and prop the model so full power is scale like, and not race boat capable. Not exactly quiet, but have not oil filled the shafts yet and they are spinning at 12000 RPM( the 80Ts should be a lot quieter). Speed controllers 'chirp' a bit but there's probably only me to care about that anyway. Looking ok so far. JB
    12 days ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. Quest for the correct engine sound
    True Martin, the whistle is from the turbo but the originals in the ST are non turbo. It would be great if someone would make a cheap sound unit, where you could record a sound and upload it to the unit and it would convert it to a usable proportional sound. The sound units I have work like this and have an SD card in the system where an original sound is split into small WAV ? bytes and each one loops if stopped in a particular position, or steps up the folders in sinc with the TX (bit like going up the scale on a piano. Problem is to find a genius who can hack this system and find a way to copy a sound into the SD card we could all use. Only way at the moment is to use an installed sound, or find a smooth continuous 0-full power sound and make a WAV file and send it to the manufacturer (GT Power-China) and get them to convert it, and send you a download an hope it will install, -super complicated! Got to be an easy way!? The sound on this vid is (this is a bit like your cryptic stuff Martin) made by an inkjet printer carriage motor on 4v run through one of those adjustable voltage regs we discussed recently, and just sitting on the deck (as a sound board). I've been trying things like this for years, on and off, and you can get some quite good sounds from electric
    motors
    attached to resonator boxes, - even found the lid of a jam jar sounds like a hot bulb engine when clicked in and out over a small box (like the old clickers we had as kids), Thought of making one with a cam on a geared electric motor on an ESC. Always on the lookout for a cheaper alternative. JB
    12 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Are there fairies.
    ".....That motor is a puzzle, if its a dc motor why would it have 3 brushes. I have only seen 2 or 4 on dc
    motors
    ......" From the excellent Workshop Practice series No.16 - Electric
    motors
    - Jim Cox: "...More modern types (of automobile wiper
    motors
    ) are permanent magnet
    motors
    which use a three brush system. A pair of brushes in the normal position 180 deg apart is used for low-speed operation. One of the low speed brushes and a third brush set at about 120deg are used for the high-speed wipe. Because the brush at 120 deg only sees a fraction of the normal motor back EMF more current flows and the motor runs proportionately faster...."
    14 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Hi Guys, Well buildwise that is as far as I have got, lots more detail work to be done. I was a bit stuck as to how to switch on and off the lighting until I came across Arduino. So I purchased an Arduino PCB and then I looked on utube to see how to program it. I just picked up enough programming knowledge to be able to switch the lighting on and off in a loop sequence. There's a lot of really good tutorials about programming the Arduino on utube. My plan is as I have to fit suppression capacitors to the
    motors
    I will remove all of the removable trays and at the same time wire it all differently as when the superstructure is complete it will be very easy to break something off just to switch Cottesmore on and off. I will also learn a bit more programming so that lighting is more controllable. So that is about it at the moment I hope that this log has not been to boring. I will update this log from time to time when I get back to working on her. Martin.
    3 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Deck/hatch built, motor selected
    Hi Lads After crawling the web, I finally found specs on crawler 540
    motors
    on 7.2 volts unloaded. 20 turn 13000 rpm 27 turn 15000 rpm 35 turn 12500 rpm 45 turn 9500 rpm 55 turn 7700 rpm 65 turn 7000 rpm 80 turn 5500 rpm The last three easily run 14-20 pound weight boats with 3-4 blade 50 to 60 mm props. I am using the 55 and 65 turn in Helen fishing boats and the 80 turn in a tug boat. No cooling on the
    motors
    !! Canabus
    29 days ago by canabus
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build W
    Hi Red, if you get onto AliExpress (Alibaba) and just google Goolrc 540 and you should come up with a heap of them with different brands and manufacturers. They will all be made by the same manufacturer in China but re branded by on line hobby sellers (Gool RC being only one) You can get various winds in these
    motors
    which is good (fewer turns higher revs less torque, more winds slower but more torque) Some of the sellers have the turn Nos and RPM figures for them which is handy. You will have to look at a lot to find the best price as prices range from $11 up for the same thing. If you want to buy something, check sellers rating, sales Nos and reviews as well (good if it's up around 98-99%, - probably selling snow to Inuits, but been buying from them since 2010,-very few problems ) Ali Express is pretty reliable (based in US) and will sort refunds if product is dud (even if the seller doesn't want to sort it, Al Ex will make them) If you get a free acct with them, it makes buying stuff easy. It's surprising how many people have not heard of Ali Express,+ Banggood and RC Echo (another similiar sites I buy stuff from,-not just model bits, although RC Echo (HK) is mainly models. Hobby King (Hong Kong) is just a rip off (was good 10yrs ago but too dear now ) and their freight prices are ridiculous, (most times more than the item which can be bought cheaper from AliEx or EBay etc with Free shipping) Bloody Australian bullshitter,-re-brands everything as theirs or made by them (don't know why, because we would buy stuff anyway if it was a good brand, (eg- they re-brand Castle Creations -USA, one of the largest electronics companies ESCs) If you look at the site - Made in China.com - you will find every manufacturer/ re seller in China and you will be surprised what you find there, which is claimed to be made by others. Happy hunting. John B
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build W
    Very good work as Martin says - amazing how much time one will spend on a subject one is passionate about . looking forward to seeing it on the water....... See I have been asking dumb questions -
    motors
    are 540's - what brand ? And the GT sound units self explanatory- googled them but no luck - sometimes Google SA a bit iffy
    1 month ago by redpmg
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U
    Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box. This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the
    motors
    are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car
    motors
    which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Wiki
    Easy reversing switch for single ESC twin motor set-up
    An easy way to reverse a motor (or
    motors
    ) in a twin set-up using only one ESC (such as Electronize) is to use a polarity reversing toggle switch. I used this method in my MTB until I replaced everything with twin car ESCs. The switch is operated by a servo using a spare channel on your TX, and is just a rod through a hole drilled in the toggle with a stop each end (at the appropriate distance apart) and silicone tube buffers each side of the toggle. Power goes in the center 2 terminals and the motor wires are arranged in an 'X' across the 4 outer terminals with the opposite pairs joined and hooked to the motor + and -. You could make a double action set-up with 2 switches (reversing both
    motors
    to opposite directions) if required (I was only reversing one motor) To operate, you stop the
    motors
    , switch toggle to reverse and go either forward or reverse on the throttle (one motor will be working as normal, the other opposite). I only used 1 on my model and it was sufficient to give good independent maneuvering. Check wiring polarity carefully 1 pair at a time to make sure they are switching properly before you solder the pairs. You may need to adjust to suit your desired motor direction when you move the throttle so it's best to set it up out of the boat. The unit can be made much more compact, as mine was a prototype using bits I had lying around.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Fishtailing
    "In all the years that I have been model making I have never done this or know of anyone who has." You do now Martin๐Ÿ˜‰ I've been doing it for years, still do when I use brushed
    motors
    . Also on brushed pump and auxiliary
    motors
    ; radar etc. Oh! But connect to the prop tube (aka stuffing box) NOT the shaft ๐Ÿ˜ฎ Also note his comment about a single earth point. This prevents so called ground loops (no- not pranging a plane on the runway!) These loops in the earthing wiring can act as radiators and are often the cause of humming in audio amplifiers, hi-fis for instance. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Magnetic
    motors
    I have been thinking with the idea of magnetic
    motors
    and trying to get away from normal propellers. At the moment I am unable to spend much time in my little workshop (health reason) So I have had these crazy ideas buzzing around in my head. Normal this leads to me making something different. Martin.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Q
    Hi Martin, I've filled it up to the top with a syringe but the small bubbles are good for an indicator as you can't see any movement otherwise. I could just make a small header tank, (or even a bit of the large silicon tube mounted vertically on a T and it would bleed itself. I'll see if it gets hot, and if so I'll probably make a small tank for expansion so it doesn't pop the hoses off. There is good circulation all round so hopefully it won't be an issue, I certainly won't be racing it, (it's getting heavier by the minute - coming up on 6lbs and with paint and batteries probably a shade over.) It will need the weight to make it sit properly as the hull was only about 1 3/4 lbs . It will be interesting to see how these
    motors
    perform, these are 6v 45T but I can always go to 60T or 12v for more grunt. The combinations are endless!
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 36'' Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.
    "Trying to replace a bush/bearing in a fragile strut (unless removable) without damaging something, would be a tricky operation I would imagine." You are so right John. I'm faced with such problem on my Graupner premium Line Graf Spee. Not that the bearing was clapped though. When I tested the
    motors
    I discovered that the starboard shaft was misaligned and binding. It had been built that way in the factory.โ˜น๏ธ I now have an endoscope camera with display so I can see what's happening inside whilst I fiddle with the strut on the outside! I will make new threaded shafts and tubes and fit brass props to replace the cheapo plastic ones help on with grub screws. Same on my Belfast; but only new shafts and props. No hull surgery thank goodness! Appreciate the fast boat problems you describe, but that was never my game. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Hi Doug, I was meaning more here in NZ, as I know you have some nice shops in the UK and Germany etc ( I have bought quite a bit from Cornwall Model Boats who give really good service) and a few years ago was buying IC engines and parts from Just Engines in Shaftsbury who were a great bunch with spot on service and advice. A list of good shops would be great Doug as if you are not in the country you quite often don't get to know good local shops. When I was working on Norfolk Island (SP) in the 70s there was a shop called the 'Mini Golf shop' owned by a lady named Agnes who was incredibly knowledgeable on all aspects of modeling ( it's where I bought all my models,
    motors
    and radios at the time as they were tax and duty free, - bought an OS FS 60 motor when they first came out for around $160 Aust for eg, in NZ a year later they were about 6-$700 NZ). The shop was tiny (about the size of a double garage and was packed to the roof with model stuff from all around the world,- a real modelers paradise and it was known worldwide . Sadly it has been gone for many years as the tax system changed due to Australian interference, (they have now taken over completely) and is now just Lego and other crap (although at one time they sold more Lego than any shop in the world from the new -1980s shop) . I doubt whether there would be many shops in the world as exciting to enter as that old one these days.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build M
    Prop shafts positions are set up and shafts ready to epoxy in. Have made the brass coil motor cooling tubes and just for fun (and a bit of an experiment) closed circuit heat exchanger so I can use it in salt water, Probably not really necessary but why not,? real boats have them!. The body is part of an alloy bicycle pump and the core is copper tube soldered into 1/2" copper water pipe, crushed down in the vice onto 4"nails to make spaces for the small copper tube to solder into. End piece is a blanking plug for Buteline polybutene house water pipe ground down to a tight press fit in the open end of the pump tube. Exchanger internals look a bit rough but you don't see them. All sealed in with auto gasket silicone. Motor coils are made of brass tube (can't buy 1m lengths of copper tube from the hobby shop any more, as I found out while doing my 60km round trip) so went with brass. Annealed the brass and wound it tightly round a vacuum cleaner tube which was 10mm smaller in diam than the motor. Once wound they were unwound slightly as they were fitted/screwed onto the
    motors
    , giving a good tight fit. Also made the oiler tubes for the shafts which will have a reservoir tank connected. The heat exchanger will have its own pump and the main raw water feed will as well. Might have to fit a small header tank above the exchanger if it's needed, but it will never get hot enough to need one .
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Motor identification.
    Hi Doug and fellow modellers, One of my pet hates is the lack of/no information on the
    motors
    that we use. Are there identification charts available? I know there are many different manufacturers but with the lack of information on them I would not know were to start to find the information. Martin.
    3 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Motor identification.
    Wow - that's a bit of a wide requirement! I assume you are having difficulty finding some data? Are we talking I/C
    motors
    or electric here? Brushed or brushless? .... If the item has ANY markings you can usually look it up on the Web - though you may need to translate from Chinese. The big companies are easy enough to get English data from, but smaller ones may pose a problem. Recently I had to photograph the characters on a box of hydrometers, get that automatically translated from, I assume, Simplified Chinese, look up the company name in Latin characters, download instruction sheets with likely pictures attached and then translate those.... A lot of things, including electric
    motors
    , are now made in China as 'clones' - that is, as copies of an original design, often sourced from the West, perhaps with a few modifications. Such items often come with very little info from the manufacturer, and may be made as a short run with a 'one-off' badge on them. Under these circumstances the only way you will get information is to have enough experience in the field to be able to recognise the item as being a copy of a known item and work from there. Often specialist forums have people who can help you here...
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Joining the fuselage.
    "That is one of the things that I hate about some of these
    motors
    , the lack of information on them." Seek and ye shall find Martin๐Ÿ˜‰
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Joining the fuselage.
    Hi Doug, That is one of the things that I hate about some of these
    motors
    , the lack of information on them. Martin.
    3 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build J
    Glued deck on today (sun was out for a change) using 3 pre aligned/drilled dowels to locate it, as I had trimmed the deck fairly close to finished size and wanted it to go back in the right place for gluing. Just about set tonight so will give it a final trim and sand tomorrow. Drive shafts turned up and don't seem too bad, not sure about the quality of the bearings but might knock them out and replace them with stainless from MBA if available. Don't want to have to do it once shafts are fitted. Tested the
    motors
    again with universals on the shafts (in a word, rubbish. Thought I'd try them as they looked ok on line (and they are not too badly made) but they are only made for cars and not for high speed running. The small amount of play means that they vibrate due to not being concentric at speed, caused by centripetal force throwing the 'play' to one side. If anyone is contemplating them for boat shafts, don't bother. Perfect for slow angled or straight use (driving winches etc) as they run smoothly at angles. The black
    motors
    Gool + other names) run at 800mA with no load whereas the silver cooled
    motors
    (spare
    motors
    for Felun boats) run at 2.3 A with no load. The Gool
    motors
    are 45T and will run down to a crawl (no load as do the Feluns) but are not as fast as the Felun
    motors
    which are bigger and probably have fewer turns. I tested them with the car ESCs (32A cheapies and they worked fine (apart from the small center stop/reverse problem discussed previously). The ESCs were run on a near flat 2s LiPo and auto cut off at 3.55/6 volts / cell which is quite reasonable (3.3 being a safe min) they will re-start after a few secs then auto-cut again as soon as the voltage drops. Will cut out center top 'spine' on hull when deck is set tomorrow and start making some floors and a motor mounting base plate. When it warms up a bit I'll spray the hull undercoat.
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Joining the fuselage.
    Hi Peter, My U25 at 107cm is about 8/10 the size of your Gato, but probably heavier as it's hull is made of four planks of carved wood!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Anyway she goes just fine using two 385
    motors
    on 6 or 12V driving 3 blade 30mm props. On 12V way too fast of course but it's fun to show up the speed merchants once in a while๐Ÿ˜ Re dive plane retraction- Here's two possibilities! This one from the German model Sub tech expert Engel where I got my Akula 2 kit. It comes with a controller. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/Submarine-Kits/GATO/Retract-Mechanism-for-front-diving-planes-GATO-with-RMR.html This one from your rc sub guys https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Sub-Mechanism-retraction-and-operation-of-front-planes-1-90-1-144-Scale/272217983093?hash=item3f6174c875:g:pGIAAOSwBLlVA~jN Neither particularly cheap ๐Ÿค” but maybe the pics on these sites can provide some inspiration. Good luck and welcome to the 'Pig Boat' club! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW, having put the 'fuselage' together when are you going to stick the wings on!?๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ˜‰
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build I
    Deck cut-outs done. Deck will go on once I've checked I have everything in that's not going to be a problem to get at later. There's tons of room to get the hands in so shouldn't be a worry. Once deck is on I can remove the top center brace from the 2 front openings to open the space up. Waiting for the shafts to turn up so I can get the holes cut in the hull (will be making a template) ready for lining up with the mounts /
    motors
    etc. Making the rudders later once shafts are done to avoid any clashing with the props, and making sure they are easy to remove for shaft removal etc (unlike my HSL which has no access to the rudders, and the shafts have to come out frontwards through the 'engine room' bulkhead, - better than cutting holes in the rear deck where there weren't supposed to be any) Something to remember on the future maintenance side!
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    New drive Train and Oiler
    Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new
    motors
    . Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose๐Ÿ˜ก Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway๐Ÿ˜Š You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.๐Ÿ˜‰ To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire ๐Ÿ˜ก I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crรจme Brรปlรฉe!! So do I, delicious ๐Ÿ˜œ๐Ÿ˜‰ The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? ๐Ÿ˜ Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Wiki
    Radio Control Wiring
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! Wiring Methods Wiring can be a little tricky, especially when there are more functions than just power and steering. To wire correctly you should first check: - What is to be wired up. - What voltages are going to be needed. - if there is any equipment that is not compatible. Receiver Where possible try to have a separate battery for the receiver and not power it through B.E.C. circuits in speed controllers. There is a simple explanation for this. The speed controller works by switching on and off and different rates. Depending on the rate of switching the motor will speed up or slow down. it is this fluctuating current that is not good for the receiver if its using the B.E.C. *Edit* More modern electronics are not affected so much by this, but if you start to experience problems with reception it could still be something to consider. The receiver should be placed as far away as possible from other electrical equipment such as
    motors
    /servos. Also DO NOT CUT THE AERIAL ON THE RECEIVER. The receiver aerial is a set length and can affect signal quality if made shorter or longer. All
    motors
    should have suppression to avoid any interference with the signal. There is a section in the knowledge base for this if you need to learn more. Lighting Lighting equipment is running at a constant current and can be placed off any battery without it affecting anything else... BUT if it is put onto the same battery as say a drive motor, the lights will dim everytime power is asked from the motor. If LEDs are being used you will have to be careful about the voltage. Three things can be done to ensure the LEDs are getting the right voltage (usually between 3.0 to 3.5v). One. Use a voltage regulator. Two. Put resistors into the circuit. Three. Put the LEDs in series with each other. Each LED is about 3v so two in series would need a total of 6v. Sound/speakers Speakers generate sound using a fluctuating current through the coil. it is recommended that all sound devices are run off a separate battery to avoid interference. Another problem with speakers is the magnetic field. This can play havoc with the signal, especially analogue radio sets, therefore the speaker should be as far away as possible from the receiver and have magnetic protection if there is no choice. Relays/switches A switch is always a good idea so that the boat or anything else can be switched on and off easily, but they should only be used if the current is low going through them. To reduce the amount of problems that could occur it is recommended to do without a switch if possible. A switch for the receiver is fine as it is only low current. For drive
    motors
    it is better to have a straight link onto the battery. Fuses Fuses are always a good idea to ensure they blow up before your boat does! Make sure you use the proper car type fuses for high current applications (blade fuses).
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build D
    These have jumpers to select between NiMh and Lipo so I'm not sure if your info applies to these (most likely does, haven't seen your info before,- depends on who's selling them I suppose) but I have never had any probs, and can run the boats till I get sick of it and still have 3.8 v/cell left using 2200 Mah LiPos (1 per motor). Also am using the BECs in them for the RECs as I have very little draw,- being only REC and 1 servo to worry about. I use small props and run them at high speed to unload the
    motors
    (the brushless 2000kv in-runner
    motors
    in the HSL only draw about 3-4A flat out in a static test which translates to about 2.5-3 moving, giving a good hr or more of cruising round.) The MTB and Maiami use 12v 380
    motors
    (15000 rpm) and 22mm 3 blade props which draw practically nothing while chugging around, and give slow maneuvering while spinning above stuttering speed, but will still run at scale speeds. Being cheap, if any smoke leaks out of these little rice cans you haven't lost much. Depending on performance I have 4 nice little 25A Trackstar programmable ESCs and 2 Ocday 25A programmable ESCs to use with brushless
    motors
    (the Trackstars being really nice little units with lots of features) the Ocdays not so much Ocday (& other names) programme card shown). PS I only use LiPos. PPS Haven't tried tasting them yet, probably be ok with a nice sauce Bordelaise peut-รชtre ?
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Reversing Field-Wound
    motors
    Field-Wound
    motors
    - of which Taycols are the commonest example for model boating - used to be used extensively as hobby electric
    motors
    until the Japanese started producing decent permanent magnet
    motors
    in the 1960/70s. They are not easy to reverse, however, requiring a polarity switch of the field coils, OR armature coil, but NOT both. This means that vintage modellers cannot easily use a polarity-reversing radio control ESC to control such a motor. A common technique to address this problem uses a diode rectifier to maintain the initial polarity on one set of coils while letting the others be driven in reverse. This is a simple to apply solution, but it has a few drawbacks - it lowers the voltage available for forward running, for instance. An ideal method of reversing would be to switch the coil connections as specified by the original designer. Such switching could be done physically by an extra servo, but that brings its own ergonomic difficulties. A better method would be to detect the polarity change and switch the coils using a relay. The circuit below is designed to do this, with few components (though more, of course, than the rectifier!) The PWM signal is smoothed, then fed into an op-amp acting as a comparator. Hysteresis around the switching point is achieved with a resistance feedback. This seems to cope with the problem of generated back-emf interfering with the polarity detection quite effectively. The output switches a 5-20A relay (depending on the motor being used) via a mosfet. The relay is, of course, set so that it is on for reverse, so that the only circuit drain during forward running is the op-amp, which is a matter of uAs. This approach appears to be novel - I can't find anyone else doing it - so I am cautious about recommending it for widespread use. I have tested it on several ESCs and
    motors
    , and put it through simulators on a circuit forum that I follow. The circuit seems to work reliably with these component values, but I would appreciate it if someone else would trial it with their system. There are so many different ESCs out there that it would be hard to test them all! There are some PIC-driven polarity-detector units on the market place for other purposes - reversing steam engines or water-jets, for instance. I have tried one, and found that motor interference made the logic circuits very unstable. Using a standard op-amp avoids that problem.
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Direction finder aerials /water pumps
    Have got some small geared
    motors
    spare and can work through my 6 volt reducer in use with the smoke generator. Switched in conjunction with my esc so it runs when the prop runs. Also the same switches to run pump for engine cooling.
    3 months ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Hi Gren, You might be in luck! That's a 27MHz AM TX. https://aucview.aucfan.com/yahoo/r325252598/ Can only find it on web pages in Chinese โ˜น๏ธ But the pics show what it is. This might match the 27Meg RX that you have IF THE CRYSTALS MATCH, i.e. they are both for the same channel frequency. This should be marked on the side of the crystals. But remember; even if it works you may be plagued with interference problems, some caused by the boat's own on-board equipment, especially sparks from the
    motors
    if they are the two wire brushed type. Make sure that they are properly suppressed with capacitors. As in attached pic. The numbers in brackets are the value codes printed on the capacitors. Most model shops will have these in sets, as per the Krick set in the pic. Other interference sources can be CB radios; 27Mhz Citizens Band such as truckers still use. Good luck๐Ÿคž Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mistery box
    Whilst I was at the Abergavenny steam and vintage show today I was offered some model boat stuff for a charity donation. Box of assorted boat fittings and a box of
    motors
    etc including another Taycol, plus a mistery box. When I got home I opened the box to find a large tug Hull and decks but no name or instructions. So if anyone has details of this tug I will be eternally grateful. All parts are labelled, J&P. McConnell, Mersey Tugs, Catalogue number 00603.
    4 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    Sounds like you need to have a dedicated TX for the boat. I had a similar problem as I fly planes also. I bought a Hobby King HK6s mode 1 which is a basic 6CH but is easy to convert to twin throttles for boats (I have 2,- 1 for smaller planes and 1 for boats + a 6x, 9x and 2 9XRs). Makes life a whole lot simpler not having to use relays and switches for
    motors
    . The other TX is the Fly Sky 9X (Turnigy 9X, IMax 9X) which has more switches and functions (plus easy to find extra RXs outside HK,- 3ch, 4ch, 6ch,which suit) or if you want overkill, a TGY 9XR pro and JR module, which has everything you will NEVER need on a boat . Maybe you could use a program to pulse lights, (I have it lowering the flaps on my Cub in 2 stages in small steps /pulses and slow stepless up for eg,) or perhaps have the center motor only coming in over 1/2 throttle through a separate RX,- options are endless. I think the HK 6s is the best if you just need a 6CH or the 9X for more features. You can use the rotary switch (6s) through a Sky RC remote switch (eg) to turn on lights etc plus the toggle sw for another function. Just depends on the $$ really Not sure if you are using Lipos, brushed or brushless setup but either way sounds like 2x 3s 3000mah 20c lipos should work, especially if your
    motors
    are brushed 12v , also maybe try reducing the prop pitch or diam to take a bit of load off the battery/s. Depends obviously on a number of things such as space, motor type (no of poles, KV, size etc), boat weight, battery type and capacity/discharge rate etc. Lipos are by far the best option for powering models.
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Motor forward and reverse
    Hi Peter, I have just had another thought. Maybe you could use striped down servos! I don't know what
    motors
    you will be using but the PCB from the servos might do the job. Martin.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    Nice work, looks great and runs really well. Have you thought of using twin ESCs on the outboard
    motors
    and converting the left stick (elevator - mode 1 set or vice versa for mode 2 ) to twin throttles. Most TXs are easy to convert, just a matter of removing the centering spring and making another ratchet plate for throttle use, - then plug your second ESC into the previous elevator plug on your RX . Would make your maneuvering easier in tight spots with a long narrow boat (plus adds to the scale effect.)
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Motor suppression
    I could do with a little electronics advice please. I have purchased two Krick
    motors
    with gearboxes for my Dusseldorf Fire Boat. I also bought the necessary capacitors for suppression. I have 47nf for across the terminals and 10nf for terminal to case. There is, however, a capacitor already fitted across the terminals which states a number of 224 on the casing. I have looked this up and it appears to be only 1nf, (1000pf). Is this acceptable to suppress this motor or should I change them to 47nf as per the instructions. Thanks.๐Ÿ˜Š
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "...So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed
    motors
    ?..." 1 - Do what you are happiest with, and experiment to learn more...! 2 - Brushless are a more efficient motor type, use a more advanced technology, and will probably supersede brushed technology at some point. They are being used more and more often in household appliances. I expect that we will eventually move to them 100%. 3 - I don't know your particular model, but if you moved to brushless you would get more power and a longer running time out of the same batteries - though maybe not enough to notice...? 4 - If you want to maintain slow running, you might think about gearing the brushless down, or using a Sensor motor. Both of these options involve extra cost, and you might not find the performance advantage worth while. Sensor prices seem to be coming down, so that might be something to think about for the future. That's probably what I would use if I were making a big slow-speed model at the moment...
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    Hi DodgyGeezer, Thank you for all of the information. I understand this a little bit more now. I see many models hammering across the water but I like to see more scale speeds. So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed
    motors
    ? (I must admit that is what I have fitted) Martin.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "....that is why I was looking at this thread with interest. As I hoped to learn something!." My thoughts about brushless
    motors
    ... - they are a different kind of motor, so they have different characteristics. In particular they need different ESCs. - Their ESCs come with three cables. You can connect them to the three inputs to the motor in any order. If you want the motor to go backwards, simply reverse any of the two connections. - you can get In-runners, which are high-speed ones. Out-runners are higher torque ones. There is a special type called 'Sensored' which can go very slow and are used for rock-crawling vehicles, but they need special Sensor ESCs and are expensive. - they are much more efficient without a sparking commutator to pass electricity through. - they don't have tight limits on the voltage they must be run at. More volts = more speed, and hence power. - they are happiest running at high speed. They don't much like trying to run slowly, and tend to start with a jerk. - the main limitation on them is thermal. You can run them until the coils get too hot for the magnets to work (upon which they are fatally damaged!). - you can get astonishing amounts of power out of quite small sized
    motors
    if you give them enough electricity and keep them cool. They suck up power from batteries given the chance, and high-output batteries like Lipos are ideal for them. If you use other batteries, check that the battery can output a lot of power - if it can't, the brushless performance may be disappointing... - I find it is best to run them at low voltages (12V or less) at which point they don't heat up at all. The
    motors
    are often capable of running from 6v to about 20v... - Rather than power, the
    motors
    are measured on size of can and KV. KV is the speed in RPM that each volt will produce. So a 1000 KV motor will do 12,000 RPM on 12V. If it is specced as a 2824, that means it is 28mm wide and 24mm long. - Cooling is important, and hard to specify precisely. Depends on the power being used, and the cooling technology you provide. Most brushless are designed to run in aircraft where there is lots of cooling air. For boats, you can get cooling jackets for in-runners and cooling mounts for outrunners. Having some air throughput is a good idea - but hard to arrange on a boat... Unless you are sure that you are running well below the power limits, you should use a Watt-Meter to track the power usage rather than try to calculate things. This discussion may provide an idea of how to worry about brushless motor limits: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1329612-Brushless-motor-rated-voltage
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    What batteries?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700
    motors
    . NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the controllers. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts.
    motors
    would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all models. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC controllers and AC
    motors
    , it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    4 months ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    " is King George up and running yet" Not yet. Apart from acquiring some upgrade parts, wooden deck etc, I haven't progressed with 'him' yet. Have been testing
    motors
    for her though, and have some pico ESCs and RX lined up for her. I'll probably do KGV and PoW in parallel, what works for one ....! Life's been sort of getting in the way of modelling lately โ˜น๏ธ I'm now embrangled with German authorities thanks to the BREXIT mess! ๐Ÿ˜  If / when GB leaves the EU, especially if it 'crashes' out, I will have to be 'Retitled' as they put it, and my UK/EU driving license will probably no longer be valid here and must be exchanged for a German one. Wonder what happens to my passport, new last august and with European Union on the front!? Hey ho! As Granny used to say "Worse things happen at sea!" ๐Ÿ˜‰ Ciao, Doug
    4 months ago by RNinMunich


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