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    Forum
    Motor suppression
    I could do with a little electronics advice please. I have purchased two Krick
    motors
    with gearboxes for my Dusseldorf Fire Boat. I also bought the necessary capacitors for suppression. I have 47nf for across the terminals and 10nf for terminal to case. There is, however, a capacitor already fitted across the terminals which states a number of 224 on the casing. I have looked this up and it appears to be only 1nf, (1000pf). Is this acceptable to suppress this motor or should I change them to 47nf as per the instructions. Thanks.😊
    4 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "...So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed
    motors
    ?..." 1 - Do what you are happiest with, and experiment to learn more...! 2 - Brushless are a more efficient motor type, use a more advanced technology, and will probably supersede brushed technology at some point. They are being used more and more often in household appliances. I expect that we will eventually move to them 100%. 3 - I don't know your particular model, but if you moved to brushless you would get more power and a longer running time out of the same batteries - though maybe not enough to notice...? 4 - If you want to maintain slow running, you might think about gearing the brushless down, or using a Sensor motor. Both of these options involve extra cost, and you might not find the performance advantage worth while. Sensor prices seem to be coming down, so that might be something to think about for the future. That's probably what I would use if I were making a big slow-speed model at the moment...
    8 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    Hi DodgyGeezer, Thank you for all of the information. I understand this a little bit more now. I see many models hammering across the water but I like to see more scale speeds. So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed
    motors
    ? (I must admit that is what I have fitted) Martin.
    8 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    "....that is why I was looking at this thread with interest. As I hoped to learn something!." My thoughts about brushless
    motors
    ... - they are a different kind of motor, so they have different characteristics. In particular they need different ESCs. - Their ESCs come with three cables. You can connect them to the three inputs to the motor in any order. If you want the motor to go backwards, simply reverse any of the two connections. - you can get In-runners, which are high-speed ones. Out-runners are higher torque ones. There is a special type called 'Sensored' which can go very slow and are used for rock-crawling vehicles, but they need special Sensor ESCs and are expensive. - they are much more efficient without a sparking commutator to pass electricity through. - they don't have tight limits on the voltage they must be run at. More volts = more speed, and hence power. - they are happiest running at high speed. They don't much like trying to run slowly, and tend to start with a jerk. - the main limitation on them is thermal. You can run them until the coils get too hot for the magnets to work (upon which they are fatally damaged!). - you can get astonishing amounts of power out of quite small sized
    motors
    if you give them enough electricity and keep them cool. They suck up power from batteries given the chance, and high-output batteries like Lipos are ideal for them. If you use other batteries, check that the battery can output a lot of power - if it can't, the brushless performance may be disappointing... - I find it is best to run them at low voltages (12V or less) at which point they don't heat up at all. The
    motors
    are often capable of running from 6v to about 20v... - Rather than power, the
    motors
    are measured on size of can and KV. KV is the speed in RPM that each volt will produce. So a 1000 KV motor will do 12,000 RPM on 12V. If it is specced as a 2824, that means it is 28mm wide and 24mm long. - Cooling is important, and hard to specify precisely. Depends on the power being used, and the cooling technology you provide. Most brushless are designed to run in aircraft where there is lots of cooling air. For boats, you can get cooling jackets for in-runners and cooling mounts for outrunners. Having some air throughput is a good idea - but hard to arrange on a boat... Unless you are sure that you are running well below the power limits, you should use a Watt-Meter to track the power usage rather than try to calculate things. This discussion may provide an idea of how to worry about brushless motor limits: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1329612-Brushless-motor-rated-voltage
    9 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    What batteries?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700
    motors
    . NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the controllers. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts.
    motors
    would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all models. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC controllers and AC
    motors
    , it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    10 days ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    " is King George up and running yet" Not yet. Apart from acquiring some upgrade parts, wooden deck etc, I haven't progressed with 'him' yet. Have been testing
    motors
    for her though, and have some pico ESCs and RX lined up for her. I'll probably do KGV and PoW in parallel, what works for one ....! Life's been sort of getting in the way of modelling lately ☹️ I'm now embrangled with German authorities thanks to the BREXIT mess! 😠 If / when GB leaves the EU, especially if it 'crashes' out, I will have to be 'Retitled' as they put it, and my UK/EU driving license will probably no longer be valid here and must be exchanged for a German one. Wonder what happens to my passport, new last august and with European Union on the front!? Hey ho! As Granny used to say "Worse things happen at sea!" πŸ˜‰ Ciao, Doug
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Yorkshireman refit- rear deck
    No turning back now I thought this was going to be straight forward. I've decided to put the main bridge superstructure to one side of the work bench and forget it, for now. In the past I found its easy to try to do to much, you get bogged down,disheartened and loose interest. So the next job now the decks are off was to check the rudders operation. It did seem a bit vague,the boat came with a full set of working radio gear. 4x6volt batteries in banks of 2 that took a charge well. A steering servo and 2x decaperm geared 6v
    motors
    turning in opposite directions with handed 4 bladed screws. The rudder cranks were white metal that didn't grip the rudder shafts tight enough, hence the vagueness, 1 motor was loose on the mountings, the other had a cracked gear box cover. Is it me, this scenario seems so reminiscent of so many good looking cars and bikes I've bought over the last 40 years, only to find within a couple of weeks you've got "sucker" written across your forehead, and a lame dog on your hands. These to me are the type of challenge I like. There the only ones I know come to think of it. New kits are for pussies? Jokingly. Anyway if someone in the past has taken all that time and effort to turn a silk purse into a pigs ear, I look at it as a challenge to turn it back into its former glory. None of the hatch tops were square especially the covers for the rudder cranks, and as can be seen in the accompanying photos the deck holes weren't raised to stop water ingress. I re cut the holes to help fit new cranks and fitted 10mm up stands, made new sheet hatch covers then refitted the original hinges and handles. Also while cleaning the loose paint layers off the outer stern bulwark, I uncovered the original name of the boat. It was originally a "Yorkshireman" hence my goal to turn a Irishman into a Yorkshireman. Apparently after a bit of reading up they were sister ships in real time and were built not 20miles from me at Selby, Yorkshire around 1976.
    13 days ago by Rogal118
    Forum
    Motor, speed controller
    Hi there, As promised here are some pics of Terry's rescue craft and you know the old saying - when you don't know - keep ya clagger shut - well, it hasn't got 500
    motors
    in it - it only has 380s which are geared. There are two servos which are the 180 degree type movement; and were purchased from Ebay and these operate the 2 arms and the arms are hidden underneath the two cable drums either side. See what you think. Bit thought for ya project :-)
    23 days ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Tug towing
    The Decaperm 6v geared is 1:2.75. And very high torque, so it ought to swing a pretty big prop. Measure the prop diameter when you get home as well, also the number of blades. Have you considered experimenting with different propellers? That can radically change a boat's performance with little effort. Props can be expensive, but you can buy a few cheap ones, or borrow some from a club colleague for experiment. Either increase the diameter or the pitch (or both!) if possible, or go for a 4-bladed one rather than 3-bladed.... I don't know about a Kv/torque relationship - the key distinction is inrunner (high speed/low torque) vs outrunner (high torque/lower speed). Although that is a very general statement, and almost certainly untrue for some
    motors
    . KV is a measure of how many revs per volt you can expect. So an 800KV would give you 4800 revs at 6v - not a lot, though that depends on the prop, of course. I normally go for around 1000Kv, and run at 7.2v. Voltage is important for a brushed motor - the brush gear is designed for a particular voltage and will wear badly with increased volts. Brushless do not have this problem, and can run on a wide variety of voltages. Running at 24v is quite possible... The ESC you want for a brushless is simply one that can handle the maximum current your motor will draw - which you can either look up or measure with a Watt Meter. The key concern I usually have with brushless
    motors
    is thermal. They are normally designed for aircraft use, where they will get lots of air cooling, and we are putting them in sealed enclosures. Unless you want to water cool, I would suggest running a brushless well down below maximum power, to keep the temperature down. So overspec it, or run with a lower than maximum voltage...
    28 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Tug towing
    Not a lot. I couldn't easily find any data on the full sized boat on the web, so I don't know how long a 1/32 model of it is. Perhaps it's 36"? You have 2
    motors
    - does that mean two screws? A '6v motor' is not much of a description - do you know the make? You might simply be able to run them on 7.2v or more to increase the power. I doubt whether changing the ESC will be necessary, though of course we will need to know what that is to estimate whether it can take more power....
    28 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Tug towing
    Thank you for replying basically I have a Smith zweden which is running on 2 6v
    motors
    which have not got enough pulling power. I think the scale is 1/32 scale does this info help?
    28 days ago by georgeo5664
    Forum
    Motor, speed controller
    Hi there, this is a rescue boat which was being used by one of our members on Sunday - sorry about the quality of the picture - as I had to blow it up from another photo. I thought it may give you an idea as I am sure it uses a 500 motor as a drive and its got two smaller 400
    motors
    , I believe, driving smaller props either side of the model rather than the bow thrusters. It also has two arms on the front to capture the stricken model. Its about 18 inches to 2 foot long and if he brings it down this Sunday, I will try and get more detailed photographs of it if you wish. I may have all the details wrong, as I haven't had much time to look at the model - it belongs to Terry from the Club, anyway. :-)+
    28 days ago by JOHN
    Response
    Re: HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    UnderstoodπŸ‘ BTW A word to the wise; looking at an expanded view of your last pic I note that you are using brushed
    motors
    but without suppression capacitors! This may be no problem for you and other 2.4Gig users, but it can cause major interference problems for the submariners amongst us if operating near unsupressed
    motors
    . We still have to use 40 or even 27MHz sets as 2.4GHz waves don't like getting their feet wet! They shy away from water and whizz back up to the sky πŸ˜‰ Spent 30 years of my professional life solving colocation interference problems on naval ships! Cheers, Doug 😎
    29 days ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    Ultimate Enticement
    This is a 1984 re-issue of a Lindberg Chris Craft Sport fishermen purchased used on Ebay. Some of the parts where broken and some partially assembled. The model did come with 2 MACK RC
    motors
    and some fabricated wood parts, including a template for the aft deck. The interior was assembled from quarter scale doll house items except for the dinette. There are 4 underwater LED bulbs with a dedicated power supply. The running, interior and radar unit are powered by a separate systems from the hull electrics. The second Li-po battery is for backup and balast. There are number of additional items added since these photos were taken including a stern seat and larger radar array .
    4 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Forum
    fairmile c MGB
    Acquired this from a house clearence for Β£5,think I got a good deal,it Came with 3 torpedo 850
    motors
    I’ve repainted and started installing electrics Not long until I get to try it out
    2 months ago by Chewi
    Response
    Re: (Hover Craft) Griffon 2000TD
    Thanks for the thumbs up on the video. Model Hovercraft with both lift and thrust
    motors
    I find easier to manoeuvre. Also to slow the craft you can always decrease the airflow into the skirt which deflates it and causes more drag. This model is 40 inches long by 21 inches wide so its bulk makes it easier to control. Plus of course the brilliant pilot πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
    2 months ago by ModelHover
    Response
    Re: RIVA Aquarama
    Hi Rookysailor, don't let the set go rotten in the box have a go. This is only the second planked model I have built. It is fairly straight forward just have to be careful shaping the bow as there is no bow section of the keel extension to build onto to get the shape (hope this makes sense). My kit came with
    motors
    etc and reduction gearing so that was a new thing to build. I have just bath tub tested and have small leak round prop shafts so now awaiting some epoxy resin to sort this out. Good luck with your kit.
    2 months ago by davejw
    Wiki
    Radio Control Wiring
    DRAFT; TO BE REVISED SHORTLY (RN) ;-) Wiring Methods Wiring can be a little tricky, especially when there are more functions than just power and steering. To wire correctly you should first check: - What is to be wired up. - What voltages are going to be needed. - if there is any equipment that is not compatible. Receiver Where possible try to have a separate battery for the receiver and not power it through B.E.C. circuits in speed controllers. There is a simple explanation for this. The speed controller works by switching on and off and different rates. Depending on the rate of switching the motor will speed up or slow down. it is this fluctuating current that is not good for the receiver if its using the B.E.C. *Edit* More modern electronics are not affected so much by this, but if you start to experience problems with reception it could still be something to consider. The receiver should be placed as far away as possible from other electrical equipment such as
    motors
    /servos. Also DO NOT CUT THE AERIAL ON THE RECEIVER. The receiver aerial is a set length and can affect signal quality if made shorter or longer. All
    motors
    should have suppression to avoid any interference with the signal. There is a section in the knowledge base for this if you need to learn more. Lighting Lighting equipment is running at a constant current and can be placed off any battery without it affecting anything else... BUT if it is put onto the same battery as say a drive motor, the lights will dim everytime power is asked from the motor. If LEDs are being used you will have to be careful about the voltage. Three things can be done to ensure the LEDs are getting the right voltage (usually between 3.0 to 3.5v). One. Use a voltage regulator. Two. Put resistors into the circuit. Three. Put the LEDs in series with each other. Each LED is about 3v so two in series would need a total of 6v. Sound/speakers Speakers generate sound using a fluctuating current through the coil. it is recommended that all sound devices are run off a separate battery to avoid interference. Another problem with speakers is the magnetic field. This can play havoc with the signal, especially analogue radio sets, therefore the speaker should be as far away as possible from the receiver and have magnetic protection if there is no choice. Relays/switches A switch is always a good idea so that the boat or anything else can be switched on and off easily, but they should only be used if the current is low going through them. To reduce the amount of problems that could occur it is recommended to do without a switch if possible. A switch for the receiver is fine as it is only low current. For drive
    motors
    it is better to have a straight link onto the battery. Fuses Fuses are always a good idea to ensure they blow up before your boat does! Make sure you use the proper car type fuses for high current applications (blade fuses).
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Graf Spee
    It's a Graupner premium line ATR! ;-/ Wanted some 'quick fun' while working on more complex constructions (HMS Hotspur H Class Destroyer 1936, 1:72 and Type IA U26 also 1936). Didn't work out that way! On first test of
    motors
    and ESC I discovered that the shafts were so badly fitted that they were binding ;-( So back in dry dock for some hull surgery! That's why some inputs are missing above. Plan is to gradually add functions and special effects; lighting, gun controls, magicians Flash Paper for gun flashes. Maybe fired using my old glow-plugs!!?? Now I'm freshly retired I have more time for this ;-), as long as Gisela doesn't drag me off around the world too often ;-) I also have HMS Belfast from the same series (approx 1:128) also awaiting fitting out. More soon - don't hold your breath please ;-) in the pipeline is some 'Plastic Magic' with Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark all to 350 scale ca 70-80cm. Sorry been in Munich for over 30 years don't think in inches any more (except when buying mag wheels for the chariot!) Cheers, and as my German boating friends say 'Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!) = I wish you always a hand-widths water under your keel. I sail on the lake in the Ostpark near me in Munich. Very convenient, right next to the Biergarten! 😎 (Motor: 600) (ESC: Graupner Navy V30R) (5/10)
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Life Boat) Taymar
    Model Slipway Taymar Lifeboat and just completed the glassfibre hull, deck and installing
    motors
    , bow thruster and rudder servo (Motor: Graupner 600 x2) (10/10). The deck was a bad fit into the hull and a battle to fix but with hour long epoxy and lots of sellotape pulling the hull against the deck I got there in the end
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    You're as BAD as me Boaty πŸ˜‰ but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC voltage to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the voltage crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed
    motors
    ! 😁😜
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Motor problem
    before you start ripping out your prop shaft an 850 should be able to use your existing prop. Specifications of 800 and 850 Overall length 110mm (4.3/8’’) - Width (inc. fixing plate) 50mm (2’’) - Weight 585g (20.6OZ) - Voltage 12v DC (reversible by reversing polarity) - RPM for 800 (no load) 5100 & for 850 (no load) 9778 - Current consumption for 800 (no load) 1 amp- maximum efficiency 5.3amps-suggested maximum continuous 7 amps-current consumption stalled 28amps and for the 850 Current consumption 1.9amp (no load) - maximum efficiency 10.8 amps - suggested maximum continuous 13 amps - current consumption stalled 40 amps - Suggested prop size for both
    motors
    : 45,50,55 & 62mm in 2 blade nylon or equivalent 3 blade brass
    2 years ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Counter Rotating Props
    no, they can turn outwards or inwards, as per my previous post, its trial and error whatever suits that application, its an easy job to swop them over, and just try it, by just swopping them over left to right, and reversing the
    motors
    . The blades just have to turn the correct way to drive the boat forwards
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    Gunwhale stringers.
    Hi Boatshed. The motor is a Turnigy SK3 4250 controlled by a 90A boat ESC by Hobbyking, batteries are 2 x 9.6v 500mAh in series. This is a recommended combination by Vintage Model Works. incidentally the motor in my original 34" crash tender was a Taycol Supermarine. I would thoroughly recommend a brushless motor and a boat ESC to give you the reversing function. Fortunately there is a wealth of useful information about brushless
    motors
    on this site and I'm sure that someone more knowledgeable than me can advise you on the most suitable motor/ESC/battery combination for your boat. Mine has yet to have it's maiden voyage so I can't report on the performance but I'm quite confident that it will be a lot quicker than the one I built all those years ago ! Rob.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Four
    motors
    Wiring Advice
    did you consider reversing 2 of the
    motors
    to even out torque?
    4 years ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Blowing fuses
    HI Georgio Only just seen this post. I'm guessing this relates to your lifeboat and the
    motors
    are some Johnson type 600 ex drill
    motors
    . I have looked up the specs but can only see details for 9v where 2 amps is quoted. There are quite a few posts on the web regarding this type of motor and it would appear they come in many varieties with different specs so it is possible your
    motors
    are not suitable for 12v. The fact that they are blowing the fuses in an unloaded state would suggest this is the case. Others have said on the web that their
    motors
    and wiring become very hot very quickly indicating too high a voltage. It is possible that the ESC is damaged, reversing the red and black wires can damage the Output transistor. You can check by disconnecting and insulating the motor leads and switching on. if it still blows a fuse the problem is with the ESC. Stephen has already mentioned the size of prop, it should not be of greater diameter than the motor casing. It is possible that one or both
    motors
    are damaged due to overheating and as has been suggested a quick check with a meter between a battery and each motor in turn will indicate if there is a problem. A picture of your model and internal set up, plus the props would help us give more help. Dave
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    wiring help!
    hI quirky Welcome to the site. Your Planet set will work fine with your model. if you need a separate rx these can be had for about Β£20 from many suppliers. The new rx will need binding to you existing Tx but it is a simple procedure and covered in the manual. Wiring is straight forward. Assuming you are using the Tx with the rudder on the right horizontal stick and the throttle on the left vertical stick, the rudder servo plug needs to go in the No1 channel in the receiver. The ESC plug need to go in the 2nd or third rx channel. The black wire on the lead needs to go to the -ve connection, often marked on the rx. Futaba type connectors have a small tag which will only fit the correct way. You will need to check the correct channel for your chosen stick as they may be different from those I have indicated. If your ESC has a built in ESC then it will provide power to the RX. if not you will need a separate 4.8v battery to plug in the rx battery slot, don't use this for the ESC plug as there is no signal connection. The connection to the battery should be by the red ( ve) and black (-ve) wires from the ESC. There may be a connector (Tamiya) to fit the battery but you can replace this to suit. Do check you have the correct orientation as reversing the polarity will damage (destroy) the ESC. As this is a brushless motor I am assuming you have a brushless ESC which will have three wires for connection to the three on the motor. Doesn't matter which way you connect but if the motor runs the wrong way for your chosen stick movement ( most choose to push up for forward) then you change over any two leads and the motor will reverse. Do not connect the battery whilst you are making the connections and check everything before you do connect. Make sure your prop is clear of any obstruction (fingers etc) as brushless
    motors
    are very fast and powerful. Hopefully all will be OK but please ask if anything is unclear or you need further help Happy sailing Dave πŸ˜€
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Reversing brushless
    motors
    sorry for the delay in replying Dave (work commitments) and thanks for the advice I particularly like the three prop idea. I have a problem in as much as I love doing things for the sake of it and this opens up an opportunity. Thanks again mate
    4 years ago by TheBlacksmith
    Forum
    Reversing brushless
    motors
    HI everyone I have a query yhat someone may be able to answer.I would like to know Is It possible to use an ESC. with forward only to reverse a motor by putting a switch/switches between the ESC. and the motor. The motor Is quite small It Is the one recommended by the vintage model boat co. on their website. Cheers Mick (The blacksmith)
    5 years ago by TheBlacksmith
    Forum
    Reversing brushless
    motors
    HI Mick Just seen your post. You can reverse a brushless by changing any two of the three wires between the ESC and the motor. However I would not wish to try this until the motor was stationary. As you will be switching whilst the motor is stationary there will be no currentso with a small motor 10 amp switches should suffice. How you identify that the motor is stationary may not be simple. As you are aware there are reversible brushless ESCs but most are designed for model cars and they apply the brakes before you can select reverse so its a two push process on the tranny stick. it doesn't always work and mine sometimes seem to have a mind of their own. The more expensive types designed for model boats do seem to be more controllable. As you are building a Vosper, many had two props and you could add a third with two for forward and one in the centre for reverse. You would need three
    motors
    and ESCs (Giant Shark have a sale on at present) but they could all be plugged into one channel so a single stick would control fwd & reverse with centre off. Good luck with whatever you decide. Please ask if you need more help or advice Dave
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Reversing brushless
    motors
    HI I was given the one I currently have and was going to buy a brushless motor, I am quite new to the hobby and I do have a couple of 540 brushed
    motors
    with ESCs. I was thinking of using micro switches to reverse the polarity but these would need a high rating. I take your point about price of a new one I could get a motor and ESC. for Β£35-Β£50. I am building a hull based on the Ron Rees amazing hull design but I have made it with the lower chine curving up at the front and and flared in a convex curve if that makes sense. This makes it a bit Vosper MTB/ASRL looking so I would like a slightly lively performance without being too fast. I may submit a build blog on the hull which is 24"x 7"
    5 years ago by TheBlacksmith
    Forum
    Reversing brushless
    motors
    HI can you a bit more details of what you want to do. Yes it can be done but why would you as a frw/rev esc cost less then Β£20.00 pm if you want some help with this
    5 years ago by BillD203
    Blog
    Victory Industries Vosper Fire Boat RC conversion part 7
    The maiden voyage. Well, mixed fortunes. The Cunning Plan Mk1c - steering system, small fire boats for the use of worked a treat πŸ‘ Unfortunately the overall weight proved more of a problem than I expected. There was power a plenty and she went like the clappers but getting there was a bit nerve wracking. The angle of the props forced the bow down and I had to be careful until the hull generated enough lift to get the bow up and a give nice bow wave. Not planing like her larger sisters but she did look something like the picture on the box. You can see the problem in the water shot, the green stuff on the foredeck is some pond weed we're plagued with at the moment. (Photos 10 and 10A) The battery position is tricky as this will be single heaviest part of the kit. As you see in Photo 9 I tried Velcro-ing it to the roof of the aft cabin but this put the CoG of the boat too far back and left the transom gunwale just above the water meaning that the well deck would fill with the slightest wave or when reversing. The maiden trip was with a 'hump' 6v pack just ahead of the
    motors
    but this meant that although the boat was level the bows were a bit too low. The current set-up is 4 AA batteries, 2 either side of the
    motors
    and 2 in the roof as before. it looks OK in the bath........ I hope this will inspire some of you to take the plunge. I'm no engineer and have completed this with a standard household drill, a Dremel type drill for cutting the cockpit hole and the usual small pliers, wire cutters, small files and tweezers any modeller will have to hand and a small desk mounted vice. The only slightly specialist tools were a pack of fine drill bits and a couple of pin drills obtained on Ebay. A small pillar drill would have made drilling the rudder shafts a lot easier but I passed the initiative test (and only broke one drill bit). I only have a very basic understanding of electricity and have only just figured out soldering. This isn't intended to be a definitive solution and if you can see alternatives to the above, especially the power plant let us know. Using lighter
    motors
    will help and using just one will too, but driving contra-rotating props from one motor is beyond me - at the moment. Oh, and I really wouldn't advise taking the whole deck off. You'll never get it back on properly unless you're very good or very lucky. I am contemplating rebuilding the test boat but with a completely new deck structure probably made of balsa wood to save weight - and because I bought a load cheap a while ago...........
    6 years ago by smiggy
    Response
    old motor
    I once fitted a speed controller to a vintage Taycol motor. Because of the field windings, you will have to find a way of switching the field and armature windings independently. I used a mechanical resistance mat for the armature and a home made rotary reversing switch for the field. These old
    motors
    are bullet proof but filthy dirty electrically. I would not trust them with 27 or 40megs. You might get away with 2.4Gig
    8 years ago by Dickie735
    Forum
    Brushless
    motors
    HI Ray Outrunner brushless are usually best in model boats. You will need a brushless speed controller and one that is reversible. Many sellers will say their controller is reversible (it is if you change over two of the three wires) but you need one that has built in reversing. if you buy a marine controller (water cooled) this should be OK. I am intrigued why you want to fit one into a Tug as their main use is in fast speed models. I suppose you could use some form of reduction unit but brushless
    motors
    normally run at a few thousand revs per volt and are not noted for slow speed. Please do let us know how you get on and advise details of your set up. Good luck. Dave
    9 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Power for a Taycol Motor
    Hi, It would take very little circuitry using an old rheostat and a reversing switch. However you will be wasting a lot of power as heat rather than running time. Having been an electronics engineer for many years I could design the Tx, Rx, and motor speed control circuits but I do not as the quality and prices of items these days are fantastic. I have in front of me a Tornado Waterproof 50 A Marine Speed Controller from www.tornadoorc.com also Viper Marine 40 Amp from www.mtroniks.net - either of these should handle the Volts and Currents you need - unless someone on here knows a specific problem with Tyco
    motors
    that I amn unaware of. I would suggest you have a go; if not you have a controller for your next build.
    9 years ago by Tall Paul
    Forum
    Power for a Taycol Motor
    HI Dave, many thanks for your reply. Twas as I'd feared! My dad was a good electrician, but reversing the old Taycol always defeated him. And I'm clueless where electrics are concerned. I'll check up on the capacitor suppression thing, but all I can do is experiment with reversing. I suppose speed could just be done by tappings from the batteries. Though I'd prefer a smoother control. I'm not a speed merchant and much prefer models to move at a scale rate with equally scale motion, acceleration, etc. Thinking about it, maybe reverse ain't all it's cracked up to be. I doubt if you'd have seen Boats 93 and 94 doing much backuds! If anything occurs to you or you think of anyone who might have some Frankenstein circuitry lurking somewhere, let me know. Maybe I must drag the old books out again which show Taycols as current
    motors
    . Cheers, Westquay
    9 years ago by Westquay


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