Forum

Aeronaut

For my next project I am looking at the by Aeronaut. www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/.../Aeronaut-Pilot-Boat-3046-00.htm I am unable to find any reviews or information, apart from the somewhat limited information on the web. I am not new to model boats but I am new to electric power. It is suggested that two motors are used (not supplied). The kit seems to be very detailed with scope to add. Any advice would be much appreciated. Steve

8 years ago by cormorant

Blog

Winter approaches again so what better than a new project,.......to go along with the other two yet to be completed. I have excuses. Honest!! This new one is a bit different again. No wood at all this time. It is the Aero-naut . I thought it didn`t look too much of a task but I think I will have to re-assess as it is tricky in parts. I have assembled the hull frame, which although the parts are rather loose fitting until glued went ok. I have, however, stumbled slightly on the next stage, to fit the hull skins. The instructions suggest to cellotape them in place prior to glueing. Not as easy as it sounds as considerable bending of the parts is required to get them to fit, too much for the tape. Does anybody know of an easier approach please. The ABS is extremely difficult to hold in position when trying to tape it, which incidently, does not hold anyway. Should I warm up the skins or will this distort them and give a rippled finish. Any help here would be appreciated.🤓 I will continue with the refurbishment of the Patrol Torpedo Boat for now as I have been trying to manipulate the sides of the into place for hours, no, days!!.😡😤

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter

Hello all. I hope you can help me before I lose all of my hair. I recently purchased a Turnigy 9x set which, according to all of the reviews I have seen, is good value for money. I am sure that they are all right but you need to be a genius to understand the instructions. Everything is in short hand. I am fairly new to the latest radios but I can read. This is not good. The internet has been invaluable and I have found a good instruction book for the Flysky 9x which appears to be the same. I have now got through the basics but I am having a problem achieving what I bought it for in the first place. My latest build, a , has been wired such that I need to use three channels to operate rc switches. I would like to use channels 5, 6 and 7. I have found that I can set 5 to gear which gives me one switch, another can go to throttle something to give me two switches, but the other choices go to trimmers only. After reading bloggs it seems that I can get a third switch working on, say, channel 7, but have to alter mix settings. I am completely lost now and wondered if anybody could instruct me as to how to get this third switch to operate on channel seven. Thank you.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel

This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, battery, radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).

5 years ago by Davecounty

Forum

Aeronaut

Thanks for the credit Peter 👍 Saw your mail, answer soon, been having PC problems.🤔 Just about got 'em ironed out now 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Ron. I have a reasonable knowledge of electronics and wiring but my difficulty lies in the circuit board designs, especially when IC`s are involved. Fortunately this site has some very good people willing to help. I have been helped a lot by Doug, (RNinMunich) who is always happy to advise. Due to only requiring a small quantity of electronic items such as LED`s at a time, I buy most of them through ebay. I would recommend bright_components for LEDs and resistors. They sell most things needed for the boat builder where electronics are concerned. 😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Peter, Thanks for idea for making easier access to Rudder Connections. I have modified mine to similar to yours and all seems well so far. I have not continued with "above" Deck Building but that will be next on the plan. How "Electrical Minded" are you regarding LED wiring etc.? I am looking for a good Website, both for getting advice on Wiring along with suitable supplies for UK source. Any ideas? Thanks again. Ron

5 years ago by RonW

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Ron. I have just fitted the rudders and controls last weekend. I have built almost the complete model but held off from fitting the deck until I had time to consider this problem. The best I could come up with was to reverse the control arms so that their screws fixing them to the rudders were accessible from the front after the deck had been fitted. Doing the linkages this way means that you have to bend the control arms to miss the strength rib in front of the rear skin and also you might have to reverse the servo travel direction on the Tx. I had to do this.😉 I have included a picture to show what I have done. it does not solve all of the problems but makes adjustment possible. I have also included a picture of the dual speed controller. I know you have solved this problem but I have tested this unit and it works very well. I hope this helps in some way. Peter.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Peter. I have competed the hull and tested motors which are running OK. Whilst setting up the Servo etc for the Rudder Control, I found the fittings very fiddly to connect (and that is without the Deck fitted). Moving on, I am considering what can/should be done to enable slight adjustments to the Rudders etc. when the Deck is fixed. All very tight to get into that area. Has anyone had this problem and found an answer? Thanks. Ron

5 years ago by RonW

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Peter. I have spoken to Cornwall Model Boats and they advised me that to run 2 engines from one ESC, you should set up and get one engine running, then separately the second one and then join them together by means of a Y Connector. I have done this and now have both engines running together. I don't need them to run individually. Steering will be done by Rudders. Best Wishes. Ron👍😁

5 years ago by RonW

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Ron. I am currently building the Aeronauts Kit. it is reasonably well advanced now but I still have to fit the electronics. I bought two 400 sport brushed motors and was advised at a very early stage that two speed controllers were necessary. I looked into various solutions and found that Hobbyking sell a dual speed controller especially for two motors. it is a Hobbywing Quicrun 860. I hope this helps.😊 Peter.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut

Steve. Since my last message, I have made progress, purchased a kit from Cornwall Models. Started building hull just before Xmas and as you mentioned, you need to have patience to get it right. Before going to far, I am planning how to set up the Motors and the Speed controller. I have got a Viper Marine 25 ESC and 2 Motors (380's). Looking back at some photos of yours, it looks as you have 2 Speed Controllers. I am having problems in getting the ESC to talk to the 2 Motors. Do I need to have a second ESC to operate the 2 Motors? How would this be set up through my Hobbyking Controller? Would appreciate some clarity of my thinking. Best Wishes. Ron👍😁

5 years ago by RonW

Blog

Cabin / Deck Designs

Hello, Thinking about deck and pilot house designs. Good thing to do while the glue dries. The attach drawing found on the net is making me think about a front ramp as I like these workboats. Just need to keep in mind that it also needs to be a rescue vessel. There is always a need to rescue a sailboat at the pond. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Blog

Painting

Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the . Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.🤓 I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. it still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.😉 I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut

Talking of glues for plastic I have a bottle of Plastic Magic (liquid) which you apply to the joint at one end using a brush. it runs by capillary action along the joint or press the joint together for those less accurate. I have not yet found a plastic it won't join. Be very very sparing using on any of the foams as it eats some of them. Test on scrap first. On E Bay/Amazon you can find Por type glues unbranded much cheaper but equally effective. Search for Depron glues. Happy sticking👍👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Peter It seems so long ago and I can't remember exactly how I did it. However, I used canopy glue (which dries clear) to stick the glazing to the window opening as centrally as I could. Any gaps were successfully covered by the metal trim, which I fitted before the canopy glue dried so I could reposition the glazing if required. Sorry I can't be any more specific but the end result was 'gapless'. Steve

5 years ago by cormorant

Forum

Aeronaut

Hi Steve. In have been reading this thread with great interest as I am currently making this kit. I am about 70% there but have hit a snag that I have no answer for and hoped you could help. I am trying to fit the glazing but have found it to be fairly loose in the holes. Can you advise as to how you glued yours in place without sticking the protective tape in place and how it stays there due to the gaps around. When did you fit the metal trims. Thanks.😊 Peter.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut

Jotika Ltd are the main UK distributor for Aeronaut. http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Distributors_Front.htm I have just spoken to the MD, John and he can supply any parts you need. His phone number is 01905 776073. Hope this helps.

5 years ago by cormorant

Forum

Aeronaut

I have this model 3/4 finished. Unfortunately I have lost one of the metal window frames. I am at a loss as to the best way to make suitable replacement that won’t be to obvious, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

5 years ago by glyn44

Forum

Aeronaut

Thanks cormorant. Looking forward to it and its challenges.👍😁

5 years ago by RonW

Forum

Aeronaut

I hope you enjoy the build Ron, I know I did. The most difficult part for me was skinning the hull. You need to be very careful and precise when lining them up. Best of luck! Steve

5 years ago by cormorant

Response

Air boat

Thanks am going to make another one which will incorporate a pusher prop . At least that’s my winter project when all my fleet have been dry docked etc, did one last night ( 42 inch ) a V.T. Nelson. Only another 14 to go.

6 years ago by Purser1944

Forum

Equipment wire

I am currently working on a few projects at a time. One boat, a Police Launch, has several working lights that I have aded as extras. I have quite a bit of available room so I have used 7/0.2 equipment wire for all of the LED`s. For my , I have very little room to run the wires and so will have to reduce drastically. I cannot seem to find smaller wire which leads me to believe that I am looking in the wrong places. Please can I ask for advice as to which wire size I should be looking for and where to look for it. I like to colour code the wires also to make fault tracing easier, so multiple colours would be an added bonus. Thanks. Peter.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Old outboard motor...

GRP dinghy, ancient outboard separated into it's halves. The dinghy was made by a company that had done a Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter which a friend was working on before he died suddenly. He decided that he wouldn't use the dinghy and gave it to me. I was thinking of using it for a mini steam plant as a river launch, but that's too far in the future. I think I may have a suitable dolly for the boatman. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Darby One Design hydro...

As I have never seen one up close I don't know. They only fly inside the camp, but some of the pilots fish in my local lake which is behind the camp, and we chat about models in general and they will sometimes offer help in getting my boat down to the water. They offer advice on my radio systems as the old vintage stuff I have can cause interference. So they advised me to use 2.4ghz here. Next time I meet with one of them I will ask about the engine details. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hello, Doug: Out of curiosity, did you remove the molded-on plastic ladder rungs from inside of the mast to gain more space for wires? Seeing your finished mast has shown me that it’s best to keep the original nav light locations. Having all 6 lights on the main mast will make it look too cluttered. With all of the lights switched on it’ll look like a light saber is jutting out of the pilot house roof. Do you know if there are standards governing the horizontal spacing of navigation lights? There should be, otherwise I’d think the lights could tend to overlap & look like one big light, especially in fog. BTW, the cables you added to the mast antennas look great. The smooth curve of the cables & the weather boots at the antenna connections add a lot of realism. Well done!👍🏻 Speaking of details, do you know if tugboats carry anchors? if so, what type? As far as I know the US Coast Guard requires every powered vessel to have at least one anchor. I see no reason why tugboats would be exempt from this rule. I’m glad you mentioned using a Tamiya sanding sponge as a means of removing the factory-applied lettering. There’s a model railroad technique I’ve used successfully where an ordinary pencil eraser & window cleaner are used to remove lettering. I’m sure it would work on my boat but I might not live long enough to get it finished. Shortly after I got the boat I ordered a cloth American flag & scale Plimsoll markings from BECC. Sadly BECC has gone out of business. Another good supplier goes around the bowl & down the hole. Sad. Regarding the winch again, your comments tell me that I may have mislead you into thinking that my boat has a winch. it doesn’t, but I did say I’m planning to scratchbuild one. in fact, I’m going to sketch one out right after I post this message. Thanks, Pete

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Response

Wednesday did not go too well. I used a new method to hold the skins in shape but could not line them up as I would like with the stringers. The keel also looked a little up and down which was going to hinder the fitting of the bottom skins. I made the decision to carefully break some of the joints and re-bed the keel in place. I have broken it up and found a bit of a mystery. I have adjusted the keel which now sits in a much better place. The problem I have found, and possibly the cause of most of my alignment woes, is that the Transom seems to be sitting about 1.5mm low which in turn sets the heel too high (see picture). The stringers seem to agree with this as when I put a straight edge along them the last joint seems to drop. I will reset the Transom in line with the keel which in turn will lift its feet above the jig. I cannot explain why this is but I think my plan will solve the problem. I just hope that I am not adding to the problems later on. I cannot see why this should be. I thought it might be my baseboard not being flat, so I rotated the model 180 degrees on the board with the same result. I will try again to set the model in alignment and hope that the skins fit better. All of the evidence points to this being the source of my problems. We will see.😤

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Brooklyn Finally Completed!

Mornin' Doug, That sounds like an idea! But, as much as the Brooklyn weighs. I think the best thing to do. Is get someone else to carry it! I have a wagon I'm going to cut a notch into. That way I can pull it to the pond! Now, How do I get it down to the ground floor? It's always something with these models..... I think I'll get a smaller boat! Maybe a ......

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Thanks for that explanation looking forward to seeing the skins ,I hope it goes well

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Hi Mike. The bulkheads are all slotted as is the keel. The front of the keel is also located in a slot in the base board and so therefore all of the bulkheads are automatically held square in both directions. it has been glued and on a trial run, the skins fit well. I have been as careful as possible. The manufacturer has thought about assembly. The jig is not card. it is a strong sheet of 3mm Depron. if you see the picture above, you can see the slots for the bulkheads and the centre front slot for the keel. it does seem to keep everything in place very well.😊 I am going to try to fit the skins tomorrow. I wll report back if I don`t do myself an injury trying.🤓

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Agree right down the line Mike 👍

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Is there anything that holds the bulkheads at 90 degrees to the base? I assume you fastened this base card template flat to a wooden building board otherwise there is a danger that the bulkheads could be out of true hence my comment - bulkheads at 90 degrees. its also important that it stays in the jig while the skins are applied. is the structure already glued? as my comments may be too late

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Thanks Doug and Mike. I will use this when I attempt a scratch build next year. I have added a picture of the hull frame in the setting jig. it is surprisingly strong. I removed it only for the pictures.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Excellent example Mike 👍👍 and a neat job. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Here's a picture of the building board I am using on on a small cabin cruiser, I hope this explains the principle. The excess lugs on each bulkhead are cut off after skinning.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Hi MouldBuilder, You can do it. Just look at the instructions! Use the building board. That come with the kit! Take your time. No need to rush! Cheers, Ed

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Agreed Mike, that was exactly my thought as studied the pics of frame arrangements👍 Pete, I hope you managed to get all frames fitted at right angles to the keel! To skin it I would fix the frame structure firmly to a build-board upside-down as Mike says. Make sure the keel is straight and then FIX THE BOTTOM SKINS FIRST making sure that they are flush to the keel and that the keel is straight and the frames not twisted. Leave overnight to set thoroughly. If you are having trouble fitting the skin round the bow and sticking the whole length then as a first stage glue the 'flat' bit aft. Leave to set overnight and then you can play with the 'bent' bits the next day without shifting what you have already done.😉 When the bottom skins are fixed file and sand to fit so you can fit the side skins smoothly and down over the bottom skin edges. Use the same technique for the side skins, stick the back end first if you ain't got enough hands handy to fiddle aft and bow on simultaneously😉 Use clamps if you can, e.g. the simple plastic X types or bulldog clips, whatever. instead of Sellotape try aluminium Duct Tape. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Thanks Ed. I will have one more go and if that fails I will ask Cormorant.😊 mturpin013, The kit comes with a hull assembly base plate which aligns all of the formers in the correct position. I will add a picture with the hull in place tomorrow. I would like to see your picture though as I hope to do a scratch build in wood next year.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

looking at the bulkheads I would suggest that the structure is meant to be built upside down on a building board. Each bulkhead should be fastened to a piece of 12mm sq timber then fasten to the base board at the appropriate spacing keeping them upright and square, then the keel can be glued in place followed by the chines keeping all the structure square and true. Just a thought. Ill post a picture of a similar vessel I am building at present in this way, but will be tomorrow.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Hi Mouldbuilder, Send a PM to Steve "Cormorant". He built a a while ago! I'm sure he wouldn't mind. Sharing some pointers with you! Cheers, Ed

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Complete!

So, having had a few days off during the week when "The Boss" has been at work has given me enough hours to finish The Waveney off! Its been a hard week of making the small bits n bobs from scratch using a combination of balsa, carbon rod, brass rod, plastic tube, plastic sheet etc to make the radar array, antenna mast, extra cockpit details ect. The deck winch was made from large Servo output discs! The RNLI flag printed off Google! This has been followed by alot of detail painting and laquering. Anyway, I think I have just about exhausted as much detail as can be had at this scale and and happy to call completion! Only job to do now is get it in the Hot Tub and add the 2 Kg of ballast to get her on the waterline. On water photos and video to follow in the last update on this thread! as for next projects? I have the Aeronaut sat in the pile and the Fairy huntress 23 plan and wood pack on route from Sarik Hobbies!

6 years ago by Skydive130

Blog

Fitting

Well, best laid plans and all that. Things have not gone too well. I managed to transport the boat in pieces to Hungary as planned. That is where the plans changed slightly. The plan was to have a trial on the river by the end of my holiday. I was rudely interupted by beautiful weather so I spent a lot of time in the river myself instead. I have started to assemble the superstructure and completed the radar, which turns rather realistically when under power. I have added coloured LED`s to the navigation lights. I have mostly completed the painting and laquering. I assembled the hand rails but still have to paint them. I started to look into the electrics but had to stop when I found that the pump I purchased was not suitable for purpose. I put the pump under test and it only appears to work if fully submerged. Not really useful for a boat. I will search for a replacement.🤔 Just a small note, I have now found that the superstructure has warped slightly during painting. I fitted it really closely before painting but now it has twisted slightly. Very disappointed but never mind.😤 As I am now home until Christmas, there will be no further progress until then. I may not be able to trial until April as our river is often frozen at Christmas. Well I could not help myself and bought another kit. This next one is different and should be easier. it will be a Pilots boat. At the same time, I will now continue with the PTB refurbishment.🤓

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Bustler class tug

Hi Marky, Your interest in the Bustler design is correct. I have a relatively basic model of this class of vessel, built my late father and it is a superb runner. Earlier on this year, my partner Maggie spent some time in Liverpool for the Tall Ships rage. We found this example in the Royal Albert dock dry dock. it has been painted in a WW1 dazzle camouflage and modified to serve as a .

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Blog

Cabin roofs

Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat

It is a little while ago since this subject was raised but I came across it to day whilst passing my time looking through this continuingly interesting web site, but for what it is worth I will outline a bit I know about the RAF marine branch. I was one of the last National Service RAF enlisted men and started my service 5 th April 1960. I was then trained as an Air Wireless Fitter at Yatesbury and on passing the reqired tests was posted to RAF Mountbatten in May 1961, this was sited on the coastline of Plymouth Sound and the marine craft were moored on the Cattewater. Not long before I got there, the main base for the RAF Marine activities was on the I. of W. at Calshot but the decision had been made, due to the great contraction of the marine arm, as helicopters had taken over the rescue task and the loss in interest in aircraft operating from water, the MU ( Maintenance Unit ) was moved to the operational station at Plymouth. Mountbatten was quite busy with various activities and it was the H.Q. of Coastal Command the other activities was in providing targets for Shackelton training, dingy drill for aircrew and survival training for aircrew on Dartmoor. All the useful marine craft were moved to Plymouth and I would imagine things like Fire Floats would have been disposed of prior to the move. All that was at Mountbatten were RTTL's of various standards, RSL's and Pinnance's. The only strange item was an old Rescue Launch which was powered by 3 Napier Lion engines, all the later RTTLs had Rolls Royce Merlin derivatives. This was the only large boat that I ever had a fast ride on, but unfortunately we were only a few miles out of the Sound when one of the engines failed and we had to limp home. I never had a fast trip on a RTTL. I used to have lots of trips outside the breakwater on RSL's on RAF crew dingy drill, when the pilot under training had to jump off the boat with his uninflated dingy and when the RSL made as many waves as possible he had to inflate it and climb in whilst the launch continued to rough the sea up as much as possible. He then stayed in his dingy for about 45 minutes which was not very pleasant in winter. It was for us lesser mortals an enjoyable spectator sport to see commissioned officers undergoing sme discomfort. I think that all the odd marine equipment was lost when Calshot closed.

6 years ago by nasraf

Media

Sea Queen

Hi Model boat enthusiasts, This is a photo of almost completed 2 model boats I have almost completed. The Sea Queen 50 years old find. it was found in an attic in a kit. The kit was in a very poor state and most of the timberwork had to be glued back together or remade. I had no plans for it and had to source a copy from the Model Boat website. it is a very nice model. The was scratch built and sails very nicely. I have been building boats for about 30years and have built over 25 boats, scratch built all of them. I have included photos of some of my boats.

6 years ago by sidley70

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

When I had another try at the big hatch it came right off easily. I think it was a bit stuck on the gasket. The push-to-release latch is really something; a 50/50 blend of wow & ridiculous. it’s an impressive mechanism but it’s also seriously over-designed. The battery hatch under the pilot house has a simple quarter-turn catch to hold it shut while the aft hatch has a fancy spring-loaded push button release assembly. Doesn’t make much sense, really. My boat has a piece of foam in the bilge, too, but I’m reluctant to remove it. Although it’s no use for flotation my theory is that it may serve two purposes. First, it might be there for sound dampening. Those two big motors & their reduction gears make a lot of noise in that large void surrounded by stiff plastic. Second, any seepage through the stuffing boxes would be absorbed by the foam & keep bilge water away from the motors. Those are my thoughts but I could be way off. The Richardson does indeed have different electronics compared to some of the other Hobby Engine tugs. it’s got working interior & exterior lighting, horn & smoke units, plus it has a 2.4ghz transmitter & receiver, which is a nice feature in that it does away with a mast-style antenna. That’s the main reason I chose my boat; I don’t know enough about R/C models to be able to say if 2.4ghz actually performs any better than 27mhz. Anyway, thanks again for the excellent advice. I learned more about my boat without breaking it. Outstanding!

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Thanks again, Doug. Am I correct in thinking that the circuit board in the pilot house is the only one on the boat? Does that one board include the receiver, speed control, sound & light functions & an output for the steering servo? For some reason I thought there was another board under the big hatch on the deck behind the pilot house. I haven’t been able to remove that hatch (yet) but I will. I want to familiarize myself with the entire boat, so I’ll have to get that hatch open. I thought it would pop up by pressing the square spring-loaded button but no luck. Later this morning I’ll pry it carefully with the same thin blade I used to get the pilot house roof off. I’m probably the only Hobby Engine tugboat owner on this site who hasn’t removed that hatch to see what’s inside. But that’ll change later today. Full speed ahead!

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

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LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Good morning, guys. I got the pilot house roof off of my boat by using bits of advice from both of you. I looked closely at the seam where the roof attaches & sure enough found a very fine gap. Doug: I trimmed my fingernails just yesterday so my built-in scraper/screwdriver/seam separator, i.e. thumbnail, is too short to be of use for a while. Ed: Following your lead I carefully worked an ultra-thin blade into the seam & after about 30 seconds I had the roof off without damaging a thing. Excellent! I’m impressed at how well the roof presses in place. Only the paint had “glued” the roof on. Looking at the photo you can clearly see the ceiling bulb (white wires), which is the same kind used for HO scale & larger locomotive headlights, among other things. The blue wires near my thumb (notice the neatly-trimmed thumbnail) run up to the search light on the roof. You can also see the black & red & black & green wires running to the port & starboard side lights. I think I’ll add a multi-pin connector as part of my overall upgrade plan for the tug so that I can completely remove the roof if I want to without risking damage to those fine wires. Thanks again to both of you for your helpful guidance. You’re both awesome! Pete

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete