Forum

CNC boat kits...?

I'll probably go for a laser cutter in the end. A big CO2 one - but these are powerful tools, and i'd like to have a reliable cutting bed before experimenting with something that might cut the shed in half! The obvious answer is to use some driver software that does handle tool radius compensation - I understand that the Tiny board firmware is now open source with a new name - G2Core. I think it needs a bit more poke than an Arduino Uno, though. I intend to simply slot sheets of balsa into it and crank out kit parts - which means a single pass cut. One issue is how to hold the sheet of balsa down without interfering with the cut. I was wondering about a vacuum base. If you want to observe a laser cutter safely, I hear that the Yank modellers are sealing them in enclosures, and viewing progress through a webcam, which is one answer....

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Blog

Getting Close

I've been trying different configurations for controlling the sails. Finally settled on the winch circular method and managed to get it installed and calibrated. My tether broke the other day. Fortunately, a kayaker came along and graciously retrieved her for me. So I decided it was time to go ahead and add a motor. The drag of the tether was affecting my ability to get control of her. After a few failed attempts, I was able to come up with a configuration that works. Probably way overpowered but I had a spare motor from a defunk helicopter sitting around. AND finally, the beauty of her markings are back. I found a source for new labels (much easier to apply than the original ones that were water based).

5 years ago by carpemoment

Response

Search light

It's a great shame that Maplins have gone, they were once a good source of electronic components but in later years turned into more of a 'toy shop' than an electronic hobbyists shop. The high power LED is nevertheless available from Hobbyking but the lense will prove more difficult to source now. Midas Components in Norfolk used to be an importer of the 'HJ-HPH2' lens and I also found this after a quick Google: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/hj-hph2/lens/huey-jann-electronic/hph2/ The 'Peter Jones' mentioned could be the chap from the Dragons Den programme? I'm very flattered by Doug's epithet 'King of Crash Tenders' but it is undeserved and should be attributed to the likes of Paul Devlin (pmdevlin) and the late Peter Henshaw (HS93) both from whom I took great inspiration, (and stole lots of ideas from 😜). It is nevertheless very pleasing the the Crash Tenders still appeal to modellers who want to make them and detail them as much as Mike Turpin here.

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

54'' long Cervia tug.

My Cervia was ready built. I have replaced the Electric motor with a large servo motor (Brushed) .Direct drive and being heavy helps with ballasting. lead acid gel cells are . Motor rated voltage24 v but run it on 12v . low rev high torque no load current 1 amp. Shaft diameter 0.5 in. Gives some idea of power out. Being servo motor (ex computer drive 30 years old) well balanced no vibration. Photo near shore shows power of motor.

6 years ago by tysonyoung

Forum

SuzyQ

I have built a few of Vics plans and found them very easy to construct. He does build them a bit heavy an underpowered but.....they are solid and safe.......Starlet, Hydro bat, Scudder And currently got the Zing Ray under construction. The Starlet is a dream to sail. Hydro bat very fast and very responsive to water rudder input. A favourite with the grand kids. Scudder looks quite weird but it lives up to its name. Grandkids love this as well. Another water rudder model. If these are used in really weedy lakes the rudder will pick up some trailers so i have fitted a 3mm rod running from mid keel to lower rudder pivot point. The weeds simply slide off. The Zing Ray is a shovelnose hydroplane still under construction. The biggest source of quite a bit of discussion is the conversion from ic to electric. Using a base of 3.5cc produces 400w or about 1000grams of thrust, these models seem to work ok. And yes i am a Vic Smeedfan 🤓

6 years ago by Grumpy1949

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

post up a pic of the orange rx, lets see what version it is. EG, I have a DX8i which will work with both dsm2 and dsmx, I bought it for this very reason, so I can use both. You keep saying that the tx needs to be found to be faulty or not, but as Doug says, if you don't have it in the correct format to match the receiver, its never going to work. Spektrum are reliable, so I doubt the tx is faulty BInd plug in receiver to receiver, orange light flashes quick (make sure its 6v, if you are using less it might not work, so think about this, I use a 4 aa pack to test things like this, last night doing exactly the same could not get a bind, the 4 aa's had dropped to 5.5v, change the batts, 6v all worked) hold tile trainer switch, turn on tx at same time keep hold of switch, wait a minute or so, light on rx goes steady. TX neds to match the rx, dsm2 or dsmx sorry if I'm repealing things, failing hat go to local rc boat, or plane club, and ask someone to second face what you are doing

6 years ago by pmdevlin

Response

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. it was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. if all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique s, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. if it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!

6 years ago by Rowen

Response

Main Cabin Doors!

BTW: a 3V supply will only work for one LED, or several in parallel which complicates the wiring. Each LED in series drops from around 1.8 to 3.3V depending on the type. Typical average is 2V and 20mA current, so for your 3 LED running lights you would need a - 150Ohm resistor!!! Yes 'minus' 150 Ohm.😲 If you find one let me know and DON'T TELL DONALD😉 What voltage is the main , i.e. drive battery? Doug Posts crossed 😉 Just wondered if Brooklyn might have had a stern light set into the stern gunwale. Have seen that on tugs in Hamburg.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi Biggles. I am at a very similar level to you. I am seeking help from the kind members so that I can improve my skills. I built this boat in 1993, which by the way, I had no idea about until I removed one of the life rafts to find I had painted the completion date on the bottom. I am currently stripping the paint and trying to get advice on the painting method. At present I am tending to favour air brushing Revell aqua paint but I am open to other views. As for the spray rail, my boat has never gone fast enough to need them. To be clear, is this the rail around the joint between the hull and deck which my boat has. Told you I was a beginner as well. With the more powerful motor, anything that keeps water from the electrics must be good. The gun was supplied by Battlecraft in Bideford. it is in 1:24 scale. I have just purchased a 40mm Bofors for the stern. Nothing like a lot of weapons. Perhaps I should have some torpedoes one day.😁 I have just bought a 3648 1450kv motor from Hobbyking for mine. I am advised that this will sort out my slow speed problem. I have also been advised to fit Lipo batteries. I probably will once I get over the thought of a large fireball on the river or in my house during charging.😉 Would love to hear how the renovation goes. I am considering starting a build blog as it might be a good source of gaining extra knowledge. I am not sure if a restoration will be ok on the build blog so I would appreciate if a member in the know could comment on this. Work keeps getting in the way of my plans but one day!! Peter.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Rx POWER

Traditionally, when powering a Rx from more than one source, such as using a BEC circuit and a separate Rx supply battery, the positive power feed from the ESC is disconnected. This avoids the double power feed. I am embarking on a triple hand screw model with 3 x ESCs so each screw can then be controlled individually from the Rx. In this situation, where all the Rx power will come from ESCs running off the same main battery (using the BECC), with no separate Rx battery supply, is it necessary to cut all the positive ESC supply leads except 1? Appreciate any advice. Thanks Rowen

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade

So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Voltage step down

Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.

7 years ago by Novagsi0

Blog

Sound System Try Out

Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open..... Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job. The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull. The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind. So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head. So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound. So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference. Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running. All the best. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM

Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power supplies and others needing a DC . Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=balance+charger I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Twin motor control problem

Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. it usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.

7 years ago by tomarack

Forum

Introduction

Hello gentlemen, Im the "Tapemeasureman" from Atlanta, Georgia, USA. A carpenter, remodeler by trade, Ive recently became interested in vintage model steam engines. It is my intention to build (at the moment) a simple hull / boat to be powered by one of my steam engines. To be more specific, a hull of repurposed, recycled sheet metal on the 18" to maybe 36" size range. It will be powered by a 1 or 2 cylinder STEAM ENGINE AND BOILER. My thinking currently is something along the lines of THE AFRICAN QUEEN, although with a more simplified hull design I can create with bought sheet aluminum, or sheet steel from recycled paint cans or some such, something fairly easy to work with, readily available and cheap. Currently I am more interested in basic function than strict detail or creating a scale replica. In short I want to build a simple working water craft to utilize one of my steam engines be it propeller or paddle wheel propelled I am open to any and all suggestions and directions as I am completely ignorant on this subject and seeking enlightenment, so any help will surely save me countless hours of the trials and errors of starting from scratch, all alone. Any help with hull patterns, alternate information resources, tips on working in the various metals will be appreciated more than you know, and will leave me forever in your debt and very grateful. Thank you in advance, hoping you are having a great day.

7 years ago by Tapemeasureman

Forum

ESC POWER

Very impressive. I look forward to seeing the video when available. Thinking about my last post I may have given the wrong advice about the switch on sequence. Some ESCs set the neutral point at switch on and some 2.4Ghz rxs take a few secs to power up resulting in the ESC not finding a signal. So if you have such a system I would switch on the rx first and wait for the rx light to show solid before switching on or applying power to the ESCs. Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

ESC POWER

The accepted wisdom is that only one should be used to power a receiver from an ESC. I can see where using a separate battery and a BEC would be questionable, but what about using two BEC connectors when using two identical ESCs? The reason for my question is I am powering the Rx off the port motor ESC through its BEC in one of my models. The starboard ESC has the positive BEC wire disconnected. The port ESC failed "ON" today causing my model to go in uncontrollable circles as the failure caused the Rx to shut the starboard ECS down. If both ESC / BECs had been connected could I have retained control of the starboard motor as that ESC was fine?

7 years ago by Rowen

Forum

ESC POWER

Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. if your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Smoke Generator (Water Vapour type)

I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?

7 years ago by andyhynes

Response

HMS Erebus

Sounds like it may be a heat problem - thermal cut-out? What's the set up? Motor, , ESC? 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

from the Philippines

Hi Wellard I think we need a bit more info to give helpful advice. Electric or Gas depends on the noise level nuisance. May not be a problem for off shore use. Probably greater endurance than with electric but not as good for the speed you envisage. As speed is not important (3-4Km/h) then a brushed motor may be preferable to brushless. Generally the prop should be about the same diameter as the motor case. Larger props will require some form of reduction unit to reduce the load on the motor. Sounds like there will be plenty of room in the hulls to carry a good and as you are operating at some distance SLA is possibly better than say LiPo where discharge voltage is important. I think you may have a problem with the range (20-30Kms) as this is somewhat greater than the normal range of domestic RC sets. As you are off shore there may be additional problems with wave height as the signal may be obscured when the model is in a deep trough between waves. At the end of the day you need a motor prop battery combination that will move the craft thro the water at the required speed and last for the full duration of each sail. It's quite a large model and I suspect will need say two 800 size brushed motors to allow for wind/waves and current. I suggest you come back with your thoughts as you may have specific requirements to fit in with other equipment you are instaling. dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings

Hi Alan I make many of my fittings out of brass and provided you keep everything clean and free from oil especially from your hands the process is as Haverlock has described. I use a small pot of FR Power Flux bought from the local pound shop, it's for lead free solder but works fine with my lead cored solder. I am not a fan of the new lead free solder and find it difficult to use, so if you can try and source some cored solder that doesn't conform to the new lead free standard. At 2mm you will not need a high wattage (possibly 15-20 watts), I have a temp controlled iron so can adjust the heat. A jig to hold everything square is essential and if you are soldering near to a previous joint you may need a wet cloth or a lump of metal to act as a heat sink to protect the previous joint. Please keep us posted with your progress, many others struggle with soldering so your efforts will perhaps help them to take the plunge. Good lick Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Sea Rover Help

Thanks Alan, your boat looks really nice, why the 2 holes in the fore deck? I have only just started the build I will post some pictures later. I see you have a water cooling jacket on your motor , I will be buying a new motor as the only s I have are sails , this is my first motor build. is it worth getting a water cooled motor . Simon.

7 years ago by simonricho

Forum

Search lights

Hi Lee I sent for two sidelight bulbs and on inspection they are very good. The wire connectors can be straightened and the white plastic casing just pulls off leaving two wires attached to resistors. Power with 12v and you have a powerful searchlight. Current should be under 100 mA as they are rated at 1W. The metal casing is 1cm diameter and 1cm long so ideal for a 12th scale model. The white plastic rear case could be modified to produce the rear of the searchlight and the wires can be heat shrinked and bent at 90deg. I got two for £2.49 off ebay, post free. 2x ULTRA XENON HiD WHITE 1W HiGH POWER LED T10 501 W5W SIDELIGHT BULBS 8000K from lightec-autostyle-ltd. Look in 12v ready and select all items, then scroll down about 20 items. I am sending for some more but they appear to have a good stock. What type did you source. Dave

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Sealing hull

I am sure that you also have your own litany of failed attempts ~grins~ we learn much from them. Today with the internet we have a powerful source of data to hopefully not repeat other's errors. There are times I feel as though my misspent youth was back in the dark ages or even the stone age. Research involved actually going to libraries and finding relevant books. Some lessons had to be learned the hard way and I have the scars to prove it ( fingers IC engines and propellers are a BAD mix) 13 stitches in my left index finger. Still persistence pays off even if the project is less than perfect ( they all are ) I still get a thrill seeing a creation of mine perform no matter how badly.

8 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

BEC Circuits.

HI Shaun, I get what you want to do, but you actually have two separate circuits inside one boat, very much like my Fireboat build, so its difficult to share one on/off switch, as you are in fact joining the two circuits by doing this, there is however a fix! Firstly, bin those rubbish esc switches, they are the Achilles heel in an otherwise decent esc. The esc is waterproof, the switch isn't, and is a constant failure point of these esc's. Cut them off, solder the wires together, they are now permanently on. Thing now is, the receiver needs tro arm before the esc's, and depending how fast they are, this might not happen, remember the problems I had with the Fireboat doing this. Attached is a picture of my recent PCF Boat build, look at the illuminated switch on the left. The two esc's via a "Y" lead are connected to this switch, it takes a normal servo lead style connector. The rx is then connected to this. You can also see there is another slot (unused in the pic) where you can connect something else, like a light switch etc. So, connect your batts, I assume you are using the esc becs? (I would recommend not doing this, use a separate battery source for your receiver, as in my pic) and turn the switch on to power the rx. Now to achieve what you want, I would have two switches, one in each of the positive leads on each esc, mount these where you want. A separate battery source for the rx, you can power the receiver up, then when armed, now power both esc's. Imagination to hide the switch, see my radio operatore, the box he is kneeling on, guess what's under the box? 😁 Paul

8 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Servo current draw.

Thanks for that Haverlock,what a can of worms,there are at least 2500 different types so where do you start when deciding which ones to use ? Going back to the feeds for the servo it looks like the three wires are pos,neg and what I call a trigger wire,so as long as they come from the same that's fine ? I am building a harbour tug with azimuth schottel drives with 180 degree steering and using astern for the other 180 if that makes sense both drives independent of each other. is there a gyroscopic reaction that would make it necessary to use heavier servos ?

8 years ago by Stour-boy

Forum

Pulsing ESC

HI Eric Seems a neat installation. However the rx and aerial appear to be right next to the ESC and motor with the aerial actually running alongside the motor. Speed 600 motors are fairly good at generating electricaol noise, especially at speed, and it is possible that it is this interference that is causing your receiver to lose signal in the middle of the lake. Ideally your high current power wires need to run as far away from any receiver wires and the aerial. With 2.4 Ghz the aerial must at all times be above the waterline as the signal cannot penetrate water, unlike say a 40Mhz system. I usually try and run he power wires on one side of a boat with the receiver wires on the other. Running power and rx low current wires in close proximity can result in noise being induced ( bit like a transformer). I had a problem with a model Trent lifeboat where I had placed the rx with the aerial pointing down into the boat as it seemed sensible, but it was below the waterline and about 10yds out it started stopping and starting. Looking at your videos the signal is being lost causing the ESC to reset. As you apply power the signal is again lost and the process repeats. Initially try just moving the Rx so the aerial is pointing away from the motor and ESC. ideally you need to move it away from the ESC as that is also a high source of interference. Hopefully your rx will then not lose signal. if this is a new TX/rx its possible you have a faulty set. Can you run the tx in reduced mode to check output? Sorry I do not have a FlySky set so am not familiar with its settings. I also notice that you appear to have a separate voltage dropper. The Viper has a built in BEC so you can't use both at the same time. You can cut the red wire in the lead from the ESC to the receiver. I usually just remove the red connection from the plug and tape it to the lead so I can replace on another boat. Please let me know how you progress. There are other steps that can help reduce the motor noise, but its not normally necessary with 2.4Ghz sets. Cheers Dave 😀

8 years ago by Dave M

Response

72'' Electric Deep V Twin Motor Monstrosity

After much deliberation, boat is coming own from 72" to 60" because of an exponential electronics' cost difference to overcome the drag. Specs thus far are: Twin 4084 1050Kv Turnigy motors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65411__Turnigy_AquaStar_4084_1050KV_Water_Cooled_Brushless_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html They will be regulated by two monster ESC's: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171874401282 Juice will be provided by two setups: Primary testing and cruising: 4S 25C 14.8V 5200mAh LiPo [Hopefully] Showing off: 2x 3S 25C 11.1v 2200mAh LiPo in series, creating (by my understanding) a 6S 50C 22.2v 4400mAh . Prop: X465 Octura RH to compensate rotation Rudder: TBC (opinions on welcome: Aluminium Rudder System 130mm from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/race-rudders.html)

9 years ago by saxon5

Forum

Help Please

I keep thinking its receiver hence wanting to know if the was separate. can you try another receiver? is the problem on the bench and still doing it? its difficult to diagnose without seeing the boat but its the fact the rudder channel is playing up

9 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Dangers of charging LIPOS

If your charger is not mains driven you will need a power supply probably a couple of volts higher than the max number of cells voltage you intend to charge. The supply will also need to be continuously rated at greater than the max current you are using to charge your battery(ies). Your charger should specify what is required as well as the max number of cells and current. If all your charging requirements are

9 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Connecting ESP ?

Good morning Dave - thanks for getting back to me and sorry for not being clear. The motor is a Caldercraft 750s which is supplied as part of the Aerokits Sea Commander kit. On the motor housing is CEM750S and the code S-2191AE134. The model kits are manufactured by Jotika as you are probably aware and their recommendation is 7.2v nicad or 12v6ah lead acid using the supplied two blade 40mm plastic prop. I emailed the company who supplied the kit re. esc and to be told that their recommendation would be Viper 25amp with either 11.1v lipo or 8.4v nimh. Quite contrary to the manufacturer I think ! In coming back to rc boats after many years I had purchased the particular kit partly because it came including matched motor, shaft, prop etc. Nice and straightforward with no confusion ? Ok - my main concern is the 15amp esc. should I send it back in favour of a 25 or 30amp ? Thanks Dave, Keith. ps the motor spec is -- Nominal v 12 Range 6 - 12 Max rpm at 12 - 18,800 No load 2.6 amp Current at 12v - 12.78 Stall 92.08 amp is this near the limits of a 15amp esc ? K.

9 years ago by kwjg51

Forum

Motor Wiring

HI Diver dan There can be several reasons for the ESC cutting out at full stick position. Mtronic ESCs like many others go through a setup routine at switch on and need the receiver to be fully functional for the correct deadband position to be recognised. The procedure is to switch on the transmitter and centre all the sticks and trims then switch on the ESC and press the small button on the ESC whilst the two leds (green/red) are flashing. move the transmitter stick to full ahead then back to the centre position when the red led will light and then continue to the full reverse position finally returning to centre when both leds should Illuminate signifying the ESC is programmed to your transmitter. The ESC will remember the setting for all subsequent switch on operations unless you press the small button whilst the Red/green leds are flashing. The problem is that modern 2.4Ghz receivers take a few seconds longer than the ESC to initialise so the mid point signal is not present when you press the button. If you are using the ESC to provide power to the receiver the situation will continue to give you problems. I have solved this by disconnecting the red lead from the ESC to the receiver and using a separate for the receiver. You can then set up the receiver before connecting the ESC and completing the setup procedure. In theory the problem should now be solved and all future operations can use the ESC BEC circuit as the ESC will remember the previously set positions. Sometimes the settings don't work if the TX throttle channel is set to rev as against fwd and changing these after ESC setup settings may require resetting the ESC. If the motor still cuts out at full stick you need to reset using less than full throttle when setting the forward and reverse positions. I usually put tape across the tx stick to indicate where the motor cuts so I can set accordingly. If your TX has end point adjustment you can correct this via the Tx. I believe Mark is referring to a faulty batch of their 15 amp ESCs which shorted at the exit of the two motor wires.

9 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Lighting

Hi, I'm fairly new to this and am at the stage where I would like to set up a circuit for the running lights, the cabin lights, a blue flasher, search lights and also a moving radar. Unfortunately, the voltage of the different lights changes depending on what It Is. Ie running lights at 6v, cabin lights at 3v, search lights at 9v, etc. I would prefer to have a separate source of power for all of this (instead of using the motor batteries). Can someone recommend a good source of Info to make the circuit? If an option exists out there to buy such a unit too, I wouldn't be opposed to It. The only catch would be It has to be small. Any advice Is very much appreciated.

9 years ago by Thom

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Lighting

Thom As Mark has indicated grain of wheat bulbs are heavy on current plus they generate a lot of heat and have a nasty habit of blowing and can be difficult to get at to replace. However it seems like you have already installed the lights so we need to find you a suitable . You have mentioned small so I guess space may be at a premium. If you have room and they will not be too heavy you could use AA or even AAA Alkaline batteries in battery boxes. A four box would give you 6v and if you add another two box this would give you the 9v plus the 3v. Rechargeable batteries will give slightly less volts but would still work and may help prolong the life of your bulbs. Wiring Would be: Negative A (Black wire) 4 box Positive B (red wire) 6v Negative C (Black wire) 2 box Positive D (red wire) 3v If you connect a black wire to the 4 box Positive B and the 2 box Negative C then the Negative A from the 4 box plus the Positive D from the 2 box will give you 9v. If you are using a 6v main battery and space/weight is a problem then you could use it in place of the 4 battery box. Battery boxes should be available locally. Hope this makes sense and gives you some ideas 😀

9 years ago by Dave M

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Brushless Speed Controllers

ok, only had a very brief water test, as the model I am building decided to hide a small hole in the hull, but did decide to expose this when in the water, so leaked! The esc's do appear to be water proof, they are sealed very well, not just filled with silicon. They do go in reverse, I'm not convinced the throttle is set correct, I've done it a few times, I was expecting the revs to be higher, but that could just be me. I originally disconnected both becs to run a separate rx , but for now I'm back on the esc bec. I disconnected one, and ran through a y lead, but for some reason it wont work, and I know you are only supposed to run one bec , so will gave to look at that. When the boat has been run on the water properly, I will report back, for now, now problems with these esc's 😀

9 years ago by pmdevlin

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Suitable

Thanks again Mark. I need to determine the thread size of the propshaft end as I doubt, being c1950 that it is M4. Here is one I found on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131269609987?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Neil

10 years ago by impartit

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Suitable

I am seeking your advice on a suitable motor for my Aerokits Sea Scout wooden boat (quite old). It Is 24.5 Ins long has a beam of 8.25 Ins and a freeboard of 2.5 Ins. It weighs just over two pounds and has a propellor shaft (in a 8" brass tube) ofsome 8.5". I hope this provides sufficient Information for you to advise on a suitable electric motor, battery, gearing, mounting and coupling. Many thanks

10 years ago by impartit

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Suitable

HI Neil Most standard motors 400 - 540 size come with a mount, have a look on ebay, don't buy 'Tuned" type motors, usually on the same shop you will find Huco type couplings these come with sized inserts, one to the motor shaft and the other to the prop shaft thread. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

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Suitable

OK Mark - thanks for clarifying that. I need then, to source a (flexible?) coupling and fabricate some way of mounting the motor. I Imagine this has been done many times before for this model and there may even be a standard parts motor mounting kit? Neil

10 years ago by impartit

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Suitable

HI Neil Sorry for the confusion, the motor must be in a straight line with the prop shaft, both right and left as you look down at it, then in line with the vertical angle of the prop shaft Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

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Suitable

How can the motor be both vertical and horizontal when the prop shaft enters the hull at angle determined by the keel guide. As I hope can be seen in the attached photos.

10 years ago by impartit

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Suitable

HI Neil You are right that Sea Scout dates back to the 50's, over the years they must have made thousands, reproduction kits are now in production. Urgent warning, when you fit the prop shaft, you need the motor and mounting so that they are in line, both vertical and horizontal. The banana oil you have mentioned is still available from specialist suppliers, the best thing to use is thin epoxy resin, available on line or in shops, if its not runny enough put a few drops of meths in it as a thinner. The two control systems I have no clue, not even seen one, could I suggest using more conventional systems??? Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

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Suitable

Many thanks for your swift response. I had not Imagined that the "Sea Scout" was as well known in these circles and I think it is a very solid build (1950's ?) that I have yet to finish. I will investigate motors in due course but must first finish the hull. The original instructions mention coating the inside with 4 coats of "Banana Oil". is such a product still available? if not can you suggest an alternative? I intend to use an Arduino or Raspberry PI micircontroller with GPS to navigate with and will be looking for guidance in this also. Regards Neil

10 years ago by impartit

Forum

Suitable

HI Impartit. First of all, welcome to the web site, there is a ton of knowledge around, just ask. Your Sea Scout is a medium sized model, do you want a cruising boat or one wit a good turn of speed????? A standard 540 or 400 motor will give you good running without need of a gearbox, 7.2 volt NmHI 4000 / 5000mah battery will give good endurance, the motor should come with a mount, flex coupling to suite, have a look on ebay if your not close to a model shop, or through Model boat mag, Marein modeller mag. Cornwall model boats. Are you thinking of Radio Control? as most sailing waters are shared with other users. Hope this helps to start, probably more questions, give us a shout!!!! Regards Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Motor size help

I have two Nicad batteries 18volt, I would like to use these In the 48inch fireboat as the , what would be the best motor to hitch them up to, I have a 750 motor but I am not sure this would take the power, could do with some help please.

10 years ago by deltaman

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Maytech ESC has lost reverse function

Glad to hear you have found a suitable . The 5000 mAH will certainly give you a bit more Oomph! I did a quick Google search and saw an Panasonic charger advert on Amazon, so they are available. Try phoning Ian at Component Shop initially.

10 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Rust Bucket I.D.

HI Colin Nice vintage motor. I suggest you check the insulation between the windings and the motor core, old shellacked windings become brittle with age and cease to perform the insulation required. I would also check the resistance on each set of pole windings - they should all be within a close tolerance of each other. It should be easy to fit the standard capacitor suppression to the motor and hopefully the interference will be minimal. I still think you will find this motor rather underpowered but it is nice and original. As regards the bridge this is common with early home made models of the period - with few model people available it must have been difficult to judge the correct scale and once built any changes would be seen as a major rebuild. If you can source the original vessel name you will have a good starting point - as you have contact with the family details of the ports sailed to and from and possibly the shipping line would help you identify a typical type of vessel. Good luck with the restoration. 😀

10 years ago by Dave M