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    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the build blog 'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive motor and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC
    programming card
    the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from Hobbyking.com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached video links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Video is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the BiergartenπŸ˜‰πŸ˜) May 2018.
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Arun now sorted.
    programming card
    did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.
    7 months ago by rapidair65
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Doug, Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their
    programming card
    . The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.
    7 months ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV Outrunners) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a
    programming card
    . This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with β€œsofter” start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a β€œY” lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.
    9 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    ESC info...
    I was looking at that one! But as for the
    programming card
    ...Gawd knows. I wouldn't know where to begin! Right now I'm bloody panicking as I can't find the Supermarine motor for the Crash Tender! I thought it was in the old motor drawer, but it ain't. I'm crossing fingers it's in a box in the loft. My son-in-law will have to go up there when the weather cools. Even he doesn't deserve the temperatures up there! Got my watt meter today, so that's now in a box with the condition meter and multi-meter, oh and the chenglish Charger and its power pack. BL motor and CNC 32mm prop still on the slow boat. So the ESC will be the last of the clobber for a while. By the time I have it all together it'll be Winter and all put away again! Thanks again, Doug. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    ESC info...
    Hi Martin, Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the programming is explained. Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys! That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers gearboxesπŸ˜‰ it's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult. So for boats you need to switch off this function. Programming also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions. Looks like a decent deal to meπŸ‘ A
    programming card
    isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier. More 'lecktrickery' 😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming card
    s
    Hi looks identical to goolrc brand available on ebay from uk sellerhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-200A-Brushless-Water-Cooling-Electric-Speed-Controller-ESC-4-RC-Boat-R3U6-/282598266345?hash=item41cc2b55e9 also I use hot glue gun to seal instead of silicone
    1 year ago by BigAlio
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming card
    s
    Brushless
    programming card
    s, can they damage the ESC if they are not the correct one, if not what are the problems associated, eg programmes wrong section. I have a new 200A brushless ESC but the instructions only show programming via the transmitter stick in response to tones. which I am having trouble turning off the brake option. I wondered if a programing card may work? I have two Hobbyking cards both with different options available, I just don't want to damage or mess up the configuration. Many thanks
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming card
    s
    Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost Β£17 at the time , now Β£32 (4/2018) via Amazon
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming card
    s
    I have 3 or 4 programming boards from Hobbyking, and i have never thought of using one that isnt the correct one. But, having said that, the cards are now only six or seven pounds each, there seemed no sense in not buying the correct one when purchasing the esc. Good luck with however you choose to move forward. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
    1 year ago by rolfman2000
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming card
    s
    Hi CB90, I also have quite a few of Hobbykings esc's and they have changed quite a bit over the years, needing different
    programming card
    s, have just bought three new esc's with their own card Β£39.00 from HobbyKing. I try any one with all the esc's and have never had a problem,just make sure you plug into the card, + to + and - to -, you should be OK with no damage to either. cheers, Peter
    1 year ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    PS re Monitor! There are separate 'Alarm' devices (i.e. Monitor) on the market for warning you if the Lipo is approaching the critical low voltage; 3.0 - 3.2V. Look on the sites selling batteries, they usually have the Monitors as well. Some can allegedly be coupled to the feedback telemetry to warn you on the TX display, but i ain't tried that yet πŸ˜‰ LiPo Safe ESCs can also be programmed to slow down or Stop when the voltage is low. This is (to me) about the only reason to buy a
    programming card
    for the ESC. Everything else; stick positions for Full Ahead, Full Astern and All Stop you can do with the TX! 😎 PPS: Before Canabus jumps on me about
    programming card
    s! 😲 There is one other reason they can be useful: if you have a Car Escape as Canabus recommends! I discovered that they are usually delivered set up to 'Brake on reverse', which means that you have to shove the gas stick backwards twice to engage reverse. Otherwise it just STOPS!! The
    programming card
    enables resetting this to 'Boat Mode' so that the motors reverse immediately you pull the stick back. If you use Marine ESCs this isn't a problem as there ain't no Brake!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hi Guys Looking at the motor 5,100 rpm @12 volts is 60 Watts of power. We use Hobbyking gear in our club mainly. As they have a special on a present with free delivery over $50 US. 3639-1100kv(800 Watts)(170 grams) is cheaper than the sister motor 3639-750kv(600Watts). ESC car 100 Amp is near half price. A
    programming card
    is required but these are cheap. We used a MFA Spearfish as a test boat with the 1100 and on Zippy Compact 3S 5800mah 60C(449grams) clock 27KPH. Changing to a Zippy Compact 4S 5800mah(567grams) 40C clock 37KPH. Run time a good half hour or more depending how fast you push it. We do not watercooling on this motor which will work out OK in your setup. The Hobbyking car ESC(part No.HK100A)(106 grams) has a fan for cooling and with the large interior of you boat heating will not be a problem. I am using this setup in both my Sea Commander and 1920 Gentleman's Runabout. My little Sea Hornet is using a 1900kv 28mm motor on a smaller 3S 2650mah. If you have no plans for your boat, I have a PDF copy(free of course). If you wish to go faster, a straight change over to the 3648 1450kv(1600 Watt) beast!!!! Canabus
    1 year ago by canabus
    Blog
    The electrics, drive & radio
    The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom β€˜exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the β€˜operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy
    programming card
    specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁
    2 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Motor upgrade
    I hope so Dave. I ordered the motors and esc's from Hobbyking Tuesday PM and the arrived this morning 36 hours from order to receipt, very good. Now as this my first dabblings with brushless motors and esc's I have a few problems, which I hope somebody may be able to help me with, I bought a hobbyking esc
    programming card
    , there are no instructions with it although it seems a quite straightforward operation to set the required values. Part of this is working out what each item is 1) Running mode. Ok choice of three, forward/brake: forward/ brake/reverse: Forward reverse. (easy enough) 2) Fixed area accelerator: 6%:9%:or 12% (??πŸ€“) 3)Battery Low Voltage Protection. 6 settings from non protection to 3.4v (probably set at no protection as using NiMh) 4)Start Mode (punch): 9 levels, which one? 5)Reverse Force: 4 levels 25-100% (ok self explanatory) 6)Timing Set: 5/10/15/20/25/30/automatic ( which one ) Bearing in mind what the model is (not a competition racer);what I require of it is forward/reverse; port and starboard. I do not require it to take off like a scalded cat with just the props and rudders in the water. Acceleration from stop to max in about 4-5 seconds. I had about a 50 year gap in model boat making until about five years ago the last one i made was when I was 15, although in the years in between I did get to play with the real things when I was in the RAF. So if you do have any advice remember you are telling a person on the wrong side of 69πŸ˜‹, and thanks in advance
    2 years ago by colindavies
    Forum
    Motor upgrade
    Hi I use the Turnigy 45/60/100Amp car ESC's with the
    programming card
    . if you decrease the brake force, drag brake and initial brake to the minimum these ESC's work well. Decrease the reverse to 25%. Start to about 10%.
    2 years ago by canabus
    Blog
    Radio kit & batteries
    My decision to include functional lighting and a rotating searchlight in addition to the usual throttle and rudder functions meant that I had to revise my initial choice of radio kit from a two channel system to at least a four channel system. My final choice was actually a Turnigy TGY-i6 six channel system from Hobbyking. The reviews I read during my research were very complimentary and it certainly fitted within my budget, I actually view it as extraordinary value for money at £44 for the TX/RX combination, my last R/C system was a MacGregor single channel 'clunk-click' system for £20 back in 1970-something when that sum was my weeks wage! 😯 The programming options are predominantly for aircraft and helicopter modellers but that's not a problem as there's all the basic programmable options in the menus that I need. I think I ordered the wrong 'type' of transmitter as I want the throttle on the left with a centre spring return and the rudder on the right stick, a quick strip down and butchers at the internals has shown that I can transpose the stick/pot/gimbal assemblies very easily to suit my preference and swap their functions in the menu options. The standard of construction is remarkably good for such a low cost piece of technology, speaking as someone who has seen and worked on the insides of innumerable bits of broadcast TV kit. The transmitter has four assignable switches, I'll use two for the lighting circuits, and one of the two pots will be ideal for my rotating searchlight. The rudder servo is a Futaba S3003 standard servo with plastic gears, I think anything more would be overkill. I also bought a couple of Turnigy R/C switches to control the lighting circuits and NiMh battery packs for the receiver and lighting supplies as I didn't want to feed these from the main batteries. I cobbled it all together on the bench for a quick test and it all works just as expected including running up the motor through the ESC, I have a
    programming card
    for that and I will need to set up the ESC before it goes in the water. The main battery packs are two 9.6v 5000mAh NiMh packs by Vapextech which are wired in series, they sit on a bearers on either side of the propshaft aft of the motor, the receiver battery pack sits between them and all will be strapped down with cable ties.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Help Please
    HI Pmdevlin Thanks for your help with my problem as you might have gathered I'm not very hot on electronics, I try and get through by what I can find on the internet (thank God for Google ) as to your question my receiver is powered through my motor batteries 4S lipos. As you say you have used a few Turnigy Esc's maybe you could advise me on my set up? My esc.... Turnigy 120a Motor...... Leopard 4074 brushless Batt..........2x500 4S I set it up with the Turnigy marine
    programming card
    as follows. 1... Forward and reverse ...No2 2.... Lipo cells. ....No4 3....low voltage cut off. ....No4. ...3.2 V 4....timing. .....No4 ....11.25 deg. ( sorry no idea what this. is for ) I will reset this week and do a test then as you say swap the receiver if still no better. Again many thanks for your help Peter
    4 years ago by Peter501
    Forum
    Brushless Speed Controllers
    Hey Wes That's brilliant thanks. Spent ages looking for the files, all I need now is the
    programming card
    to come off "back order" in the UK warehouse. Shaun
    4 years ago by Flack
    Forum
    Brushless Speed Controllers
    HI Shaun, it's a Files tab the last of 4 underneath Related Products. Anyone may post a file but it only shows on that item in that Warehouse The same item in a different warehouse may have no files or indeed different files attached. There are no instructions with the Boat ESC
    programming card
    . Connect the ESC to the Card before applying power. I have attached the File that HobbyKing provided as help. it Illustrates perhaps, why I recommend using the
    programming card
    and my own version of setting the stick travel after the ESC is set to Forward and Reverse Copy of this attached as well. Hope this is of use the HobbyKing xxA Boat ESC users Wes
    4 years ago by saga32
    Forum
    Brushless Speed Controllers
    HI Dave I can assure you that reverse is fully proportional over the reverse range you set. if you set 50% then full travel of stick in reverse will give motor speed of 50% but control is still proportional from stick centre (stop) to full reverse (50%) Useful for a boat with low transom where 100% reverse emergency stop might swamp it. The percentages are set simply with the
    programming card
    Captain Flack, I agree with your friend 90A is overkill. With motor draw of 48A I think I would go for the 60A, rather not test how accurate HK's specs are! Wes
    4 years ago by saga32
    Forum
    Brushless Speed Controllers
    The HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC can be programmed for Forward and Reverse (without brake) Buy the
    programming card
    for it. Any of these HobbyKing xxA Boat ESC xA SBEC series have reverse and are set in the same way Having set Forward & Reverse with card, connect to your boat electrics and receiver. To set the controller to the TX stick range start with boat electrics OFF First turn on Tx while holding full throttle then power on ESC, when it starts into program mode you will hear 3 separate beeps 1 ... 1 ... 1 it does the second beep sequence 1-2 ... 1-2 ... 1-2 At that point go full reverse it should beep once then finish initializing Move TX stick to centre. it is now ready to go. If you miss going into reverse during the beep 1-2 sequence switch OFF and go back to First turn on TX Switch off and start with the usual TX on first with stick centred then switch on boat electrics and wait until the beeps stop Good Luck
    4 years ago by saga32
    Forum
    Maytech ESC has lost reverse function
    I am building a Perkasa and I am almost at the point of the first trial. The Maytech esc has just gone wrong. The rudder servo was going to full deflection as soon as I turned on the receiver. (I think I may have Inadvertently programed the esc with the transmitter). I reprogramed the esc using a
    programming card
    and now the servo Is ok but I have lost the reverse function on the motor. I chose the "Navy" setting on the card which I thought would give me reverse but I only get one way running. I think I am probably missing a few steps out of using the programing card. Does anyone have any experience with this?
    5 years ago by lesfac
    Forum
    Maytech ESC has lost reverse function
    Thanks for the reply Dave Happily I persevered with the
    programming card
    and in the end I got the reverse function back. As soon as it worked I left well alone so I am still not sure about the rights and wrongs of programming it. The esc is definitely for boats because it has water cooling. I tried out my Perkasa model today and it went fine using 7.2volt battery packs as for Tamiya cars. I tried a small 12volt lead acid and it went much better but didn't last very long. I was wondering about using two of the 7.2 volt packs in series to get 14.4 volts (after checking capacities) My EnErG brushless motor is marked as I.C. 600/670 C50-20 I will look now for the best battery option to give me at least 12 volts and a reasonable running time. (Any advice appreciated) The boat is the 49 inch model so will take an appropriate size battery
    5 years ago by lesfac
    Blog
    Aerokits 46'' Fireboat twin screw brushless conversion
    well it was all going too good, everything fitted, ready for a bench test, and we have problems 😟 Firstly, for anybody buying brushless esc's with muliple set ups, get a
    programming card
    ! I have always found them fiddly at best to set up, but when there is two of them, nightmare! This took ages, although they are factory preset, I needed to change a number of settings. I am using turnigy 60amp esc's, with reverse function, on 4 lipo cells per esc/motor combo. I also wanted to set the esc low voltage shut off to be higher than the default, to protect the batteries (if you over discharge a lipo they are generally regarded as finished), I wanted the reverse function but with a lower speed so I cant accidentally jam it in reverse at top speed. Now I encountered a problem, that took ages to work out. When using multiple esc's with built in becs, only one bec can remain connected. When using higher voltage apllications, its advisable to have a seperate power source, I use a 4 aa battery pack, and also plug into the rx a battery voltage monitor, fitted so I can see it in a cabin window, The boat has a digital rudder servo which is also an additional power drop, so I want to be able to visually see what my receiver power source is like, last thing I want is the receiver power goes, and the boat loses control. So, plug everything in, with the esc's set, all good so far, but every now and again, eg every 3rd time its all connected, the esc's where going back to factory presets, I know this as reversing function is not a preset, so no reverse every 3rd time. I could not work this out, until the genius HS93 spotted it, the esc's where arming faster than the receiver was setting, so getting a false signal, and therefore reverting to factory settings. Simple fix, an inline switch so now I wait for esc to set (solid light on the esc) then flick the switch so the esc's then arm. Sounds complicated, but it isnt, its just observing the correct sequence, like turning you tx on first!
    6 years ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    46 Inch RAF Crash Tender - 18 days on
    my advice is dont glass inside, the wood needs to breathe, and let any moisture out, which it will get during use. I used a clear ronseal matt varnish to make it look pretty! My esc's where pretty much the same, turnigy is same as hobbyking, its their brand. Didnt have a
    programming card
    , and it was REAL difficult to programme them, you need 3 hands πŸ˜€
    6 years ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    Motors and speed controllers
    Was pleasantly surprised at the price Alan - all the ones recommended outside this forum were at least a third dearer and in some cases a lot more. Bought the
    programming card
    at the same time. Thanks for the tip! Shaun
    6 years ago by Flack


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